Used one like that for 30+ years. You need to remove part of the wood so the external sits flat to cut, or cut to length first. You could just cut to length first however you have to cut a tab longer to allow for adhesive. Can be lots of thinking doing coving. Great work though making an old mitre block. Made my day seeing that :) I had 3. 100mm 127mm 135mm
Great jig!! Great job!! Nice 45° straight join 13:30 in. Most amateurs butt 2 straight ones up and nearly impossible to hide it. Always join them with a 45° how I was taught.
Brilliant idea for a new enthusiast for a very useful project jig. Great for builders too. However, only useful if you have a decent size workshop/garage.
Just about to take the keys to our new house, where, we will be coving in all rroms. Having looked for a jig online, this is undoubtably the best thing I have seen and so am off to buy some timber to make one. Many thanks for the video👍
Thanks very much for sharing your design. I copied it and have used it with great success. Thanks also for making me aware of the lightweight coving which is so much easier to work with. I didn't have any CLS kicking about so I used a piece of 4x2 on its edge. That saved a bit of work. I didn't glue my little battens so they can be adjusted for different sizes of coving. Total build time for me 50 minutes and no cost, brilliant.
Good work. I’m good at carpentry, plumbing, tiling, if fact most things, but coving? My brain just doesn’t do it, I always struggle to turn the angles around in my head between the ceiling and the bench. I literally have to assemble it upside down and then turn it around lol.
Great video, I have just copied your design but mine is a little cruder. I cut a length of 2 in x 4 in in two at 45 degrees and then reversed one. Screwed them to a piece of mdf and job done. I had been searching for a large mitre box to accommodate 130 mm coving, but without success. Haven't cut any coving yet but I'm sure I will get acceptable cuts. This was very helpful.
Just boxed my head in trying to use one of those stupid plastic tools, definitely gonna knock a couple of these up tomorro one for standard 90 degree corners but also one for external and Internal 45 corners as I was panicking about how I was going to manage them
A little tip re gluing up. To save marking out/ lining up the pieces twice, what i do is put some mitre mate on the timber around the edge where the timber will go and then put the pva down the middle. The mitre mate acts as a clamp while the pva goes off. You can still turn it over and fix screws if you want.
Just found your video. Interesting. It would have been very useful a few years back when I was struggling to cut cornice for wall units. But; despite being no expert, I wondered if gluing the guides was the best solution. Coving/cornice comes in various sizes; would it not be useful to fix them in position by bolting them, in which case you could have various guide positions and fit the guide to where it best matches the piece you wish to cut.
whats not covered in the video is that you can actually cut the coving where it joins to another piece ( if it isnt long enough to reach the opposite corner ) . You can do that with this jig by flipping the coving back to front and placing it in the jig and cutting at 45 degree angle again, then cutting the joining piece as in video it will then fit nicely together, hiding the joining fairly well
When your using a hand saw push your trigger finger out straight in line with the saw, kind of pointing in the direction you want the blade to go. Sounds silly but you try it, you will get a far better movement to your saw. Otherwise very useful video
great stuff jb, but one question re using the jig. for internal corner with the coving in the jig which mitre joint am i cutting left or right, if the coving enters the jig from the left
Excellent video. Thank you!!... But, I just don't get it. (or maybe yes) Why don't they sell premade exterior and internal corners??... Surely this way they sell more metrage, due to mistakes people do.
You can but internal and external corners already made, but they're pricy, and it means you have 2 joins on every corner, which can look unprofessional.
Thank you very much for making video and sharing your experience and knowledge. It saved me lots of time and money. Keep it up.
Used one like that for 30+ years. You need to remove part of the wood so the external sits flat to cut, or cut to length first. You could just cut to length first however you have to cut a tab longer to allow for adhesive. Can be lots of thinking doing coving. Great work though making an old mitre block. Made my day seeing that :)
I had 3.
100mm
127mm
135mm
Great jig!! Great job!!
Nice 45° straight join 13:30 in. Most amateurs butt 2 straight ones up and nearly impossible to hide it.
Always join them with a 45° how I was taught.
Tbh Steve sent some absolute shockers cut at 45degrees...
Thank you so much for showing how to make the cornice jig. It has saved me hours of suffering - thanks so much.
What an excellent jig! Much easier, and more intuitive to use than any of the three commercial ones I've bought myself!!
Brilliant jig, got to do coving next week. Now I know what i'm making on my day off. Thanks for sharing.
Brilliant idea for a new enthusiast for a very useful project jig. Great for builders too. However, only useful if you have a decent size workshop/garage.
Great point!
Just about to take the keys to our new house, where, we will be coving in all rroms. Having looked for a jig online, this is undoubtably the best thing I have seen and so am off to buy some timber to make one. Many thanks for the video👍
Cracking jig saved the day, nice easy video to follow too! Thank you
What a brilliant idea, I am going to make one of these, thanks
Excellent jig. I will be putting one together to cut some crown molding!
I've been really struggling with coving in my house, this idea is really good
Thanks very much for sharing your design. I copied it and have used it with great success. Thanks also for making me aware of the lightweight coving which is so much easier to work with. I didn't have any CLS kicking about so I used a piece of 4x2 on its edge. That saved a bit of work. I didn't glue my little battens so they can be adjusted for different sizes of coving. Total build time for me 50 minutes and no cost, brilliant.
Excellent workmanship
Very clever Justin.
Excellent well done you made work so much easier
No bollocks and straight to the point. 👍
Wow amazing!! I’m carpinter here in the U S, wood is my pasión!!! 😎👍💪🔥
Another great tutorial video Justin,and a cracking job,well done
Thanks man
Good work. I’m good at carpentry, plumbing, tiling, if fact most things, but coving? My brain just doesn’t do it, I always struggle to turn the angles around in my head between the ceiling and the bench. I literally have to assemble it upside down and then turn it around lol.
Very good , just about to replace a water damaged ceiling
Thanks a tonne. I will make this jig and see how I go
what a great idea.Am just starting my first coving job...wish me luck. Have got one of those metal jigs for now,but love your rig!
top job ! yet again justin .
Thanks man 👍
Love it
Great idea,good job sir
Good video!
Brilliant man👏👏👏
Great video thank you
Good video!!
Great video, I have just copied your design but mine is a little cruder. I cut a length of 2 in x 4 in in two at 45 degrees and then reversed one. Screwed them to a piece of mdf and job done. I had been searching for a large mitre box to accommodate 130 mm coving, but without success. Haven't cut any coving yet but I'm sure I will get acceptable cuts. This was very helpful.
BRILLIANT - THANK YOU
Great job....i will make one too....😁
Good job!
Just boxed my head in trying to use one of those stupid plastic tools, definitely gonna knock a couple of these up tomorro one for standard 90 degree corners but also one for external and Internal 45 corners as I was panicking about how I was going to manage them
Thank you great help
A little tip re gluing up. To save marking out/ lining up the pieces twice, what i do is put some mitre mate on the timber around the edge where the timber will go and then put the pva down the middle. The mitre mate acts as a clamp while the pva goes off. You can still turn it over and fix screws if you want.
Just found your video. Interesting. It would have been very useful a few years back when I was struggling to cut cornice for wall units. But; despite being no expert, I wondered if gluing the guides was the best solution. Coving/cornice comes in various sizes; would it not be useful to fix them in position by bolting them, in which case you could have various guide positions and fit the guide to where it best matches the piece you wish to cut.
Thank you
Genius!
whats not covered in the video is that you can actually cut the coving where it joins to another piece ( if it isnt long enough to reach the opposite corner ) . You can do that with this jig by flipping the coving back to front and placing it in the jig and cutting at 45 degree angle again, then cutting the joining piece as in video it will then fit nicely together, hiding the joining fairly well
What make is the coving you used? I can only find plaster or polystyrene.
Damn JB, thats an awesome jig. It looks easier than using a mitre saw. Does it work on MDF just as good?
Good mate...😊
What if you have a bay window and the internal and external angles are different to 90" angle cuts
What kind of glue we have to buy mate?
👍 what tpi is your hand saw?
The results were great; but they jig only has one angle. Most videos shows internal and external cuts. How did you workout external cutting angles?
Did you not watch the video?
what are you using on the edges of the coving to stick it to the wall
When your using a hand saw push your trigger finger out straight in line with the saw, kind of pointing in the direction you want the blade to go.
Sounds silly but you try it, you will get a far better movement to your saw.
Otherwise very useful video
OK, good tip, thanks
great stuff jb, but one question re using the jig. for internal corner with the coving in the jig which mitre joint am i cutting left or right, if the coving enters the jig from the left
Ok, so you need to imagine the plywood base is the ceiling... therefore the piece on the left of the jig, is for the right side of an internal mitre 👍
Nice tool mate. But it is ok it you have 90° in the corners. But in my contry every corner has 94° 90° 87° :))
Excellent video. Thank you!!... But, I just don't get it. (or maybe yes) Why don't they sell premade exterior and internal corners??... Surely this way they sell more metrage, due to mistakes people do.
You can but internal and external corners already made, but they're pricy, and it means you have 2 joins on every corner, which can look unprofessional.
Super spasibo
Well. Great jig but unfortunately doesnt work with the assymetrical cove. You would need two jigs mirrored.
Great video, but you need to shorten the external locating strip.
work smarter, not harder!!!
Just go and buy a mitre box simple
262? Ehh?
You can pick up a mitre from b&q for £3, you used about £20 worth of wood making that.
Ye.....but he made it..give some credit...😊
@@alanwilkinson9487 I know it looks cool but with the price of timber these days, my contractor would kill me if I made something like that lol