So Here's a question to the you tube world,By doing this is the pump putting out less fuel=Making less power?From my research,the lower the Injection Quantity is, will have an increased effect of fuel delivery/ consumption.Possibly to the excess ie., poor fuel economy,poor idle, also could have smoky exhaust otherwise known as 'ROLLIN COAL'. So currently my Injector quantity is 1.0,im getting poor fuel economy,and very smoky with a bad idle ,but makes ooodles of power.If i hammer mod and make it 5 and its burning less fuel,i have to also be making less power right?I should state the reason why i care is i have a stg 3 perfomance tuned ecu and like the added power. Thanks for any educated replies,
Andy if you ever have any positions open, let me know. I know my way around vehicles, and a jack of all trades car wise. anyhoo enough of that my friend. as always percussive maintenance, and a job well done sir. you could hear it improving. let alone what the numbers said.
I think the corect screws are bottom ones:)) You unscrew the wrong screws, next time read carrefouly the DIY downloaded from internet, or let the diesel specialist to repair your pump.Cheers.
If that motor is sitting over 250,000km, I would also look into new injector nozzles. Quite cheap and very easy to do. Stick with stock holes, or bump up a little.
Hello! I have a 1.9 tdi agr 90 hp stock, the IQ is 2.8 / 3.0 MG with a temperature of 92 ° at idle and with everything off, are these values correct? If I increase the IQ more (close to 3.6 / 3.8 MG) I will to achieve better performance? thank you so much
This procedure adjusts the quantity adjuster calibration. As this is a computer controlled engine, the actual injection quantity is determined by the computer to maintain idle speed of 903 RPM. Change to larger injectors and this number should drop.
I have an alh, that had a bad injection pump, it was replaced by a reputable shop with a rebuild that failed just out of warranty, they eventually replaced it with an 11mm pump instead of a 10mm pump. soon after that the motor threw a valve through a piston, had everything rebuilt, now even though it runs great at cruising and acceleration, it shakes real bad at idle, they made adj to the qty adj via vagcom, but it has not cured the shake , I think it is running super rich at idle IMO. sometimes it goes away and idles super smooth but a few minutes later its rough again, I think the temp sensor is faulty and is misreading when the motor is warm and is dumping to much fuel at idle, is that even possible, or is it hammer mod time?
timing is spot on, I have come to believe it is a dirty injector, based on the info in this video :th-cam.com/video/rAOVL3C0dvg/w-d-xo.html symptoms are the same
I can't believe in the last couple of months the amount of tdi's we're getting in with lack of power. One of the most important things is the engine must and I mean must reach operating temps. If your therm is weak and opening at 78C or lower you're going to have massive issues. It's ok to see lower temps in the city on cold days but on the highway the temps must be over 85C.
Hi! I have a kinda big problem...Ive recently changed my injectors from 0.185 to 0.205. My IQ was 3.4 mg with the stock injectors (IQ value 128) but with the new one it droped to 1.8 mg (same IQ value). I fine tune it with VCDS but with the car still slower than it was. How can I bring the IQ up to 3.2-3.4 IQ and the standard IQ value. Help please!
"get hurt" as in car accident? LOL. You have to realize that Rob H is one of those kinda guys that "do everything right the first time or don't do it at all" He never makes a right turn out of his driveway because he's never been down that street before. But really Chuck, just google your question and i'm sure you will find this question and others because the vag com has been out many years and this is a common tweak. Sorry but your question is borderline lame.
@@TheBlankenman sorry just seen this.. So this comment was for my 2002 jetta 5 speed. I was getting 40mpg and then after adjusting I got 45-46 mpg. I’m pretty sure I kept the quantity to like 3.5 and I had timing advanced a little on the injection pump to like 5 degrees but you can only advance it a little before getting timing codes. Also clean your mass air flow sensor with some maf cleaner or electrical contact cleaner in a spray can. I also put a new diesel filter in every 30,000 Miles or less. Also the sending unit in your fuel tank has a little filter on it so if you have a few hundred thousand miles on ur car I would definitely get a new sending unit so you know the filter on the sending unit is clean.. your injection pump sucks the diesel from the tank so you want to have clean filters all of these little things add up. If you do all of this and still have problems you could have injectors that are plugged up a bit so not a bad idea to replace them if you have a lot of miles on them. Make sure your brakes are working properly and none of the brake are binding.
Holy crap man, I started laughing when I saw this, it's the 4 lower bolts to make the adjustment and then I checked more of this on youtube and I can't believe the amount of boneheads that are doing it wrong!.....Guys it the 4 lower lower bolts..come on. Now I'm starting to wonder what kind of damage can be caused from doing it this way. You take the 4 top bolts out and lift the lid to check the sensors and make sure the screens don't have debris.
Rob H thats one thing that was wrong in this video. Another thinf was that this engine wasnt leanes out, it was too rich, and smacking the pump that way will lean it out. (The basic iq adjustment)
Antti Harri sanooko ecun jännitekartat mitään? Iq adaptoinnilla oikeesti asetetaan ns. Toimintapiste, ecua kun kusettaa näyttään tyhjäkäynnillä siten, että se luulee ruiskuttavansa vain esim 1mg/str, niin kaasu pohjassa se antaa oikeesti enemmän. On aika vaikea selittää tällee kylmiltään mutta tyhjäkäynnin ruiskutusmäärähän ei muutu, koska tyhjäkäynnille on targettiarvo asetettu, ja pidiohjaus ecussa, eli mitä vähemmän ecu luulee että tyhjäkäynti vie ainetta, sitä enemmän se pystyy kaasusta ruikkasemaan sitä~
4 years later and here I am. When doing the hammer method it is actually the lower ‘screws’ but only 3 of them as the 4th screw is on the upper part of the pump adjust case. It’s the security screw.. so that with the lower screws are the ones to use . If you undo the top screws then you are moving only the top part of the fuel pump adjuster ..it has cam that engages in the lower portion. When the adjuster is energised it does a sweep on a potentiometer. That’s connected to the vertical arm that has a cam lobe on it which engages the lower part of the adjust mechanism. So the top screws are only ‘half the job’ so to speak. The whole upper assembly needs to move for full scope of adjustment. As you noticed they adjusted the IQ upwards as they wanted to. But it should be the whole assembly moving. I made the exact same mistake also. Now more ‘aware’ I do it correctly. In theory if you were to ‘whale’ on the top housing you could damage the bottom of the shaft that the cam resides on or break the cam off. Not recommended. Other than the wrong screws the guys here have made a decent video.. they aren’t the first nor will the be the last mention/use the wrong screws.
4 years later and here I am. When doing the hammer method it is actually the lower ‘screws’ but only 3 of them as the 4th screw is on the upper part of the pump adjust case. It’s the security screw.. so that with the lower screws are the ones to use . If you undo the top screws then you are moving only the top part of the fuel pump adjuster ..it has cam that engages in the lower portion. When the adjuster is energised it does a sweep on a potentiometer. That’s connected to the vertical arm that has a cam lobe on it which engages the lower part of the adjust mechanism. So the top screws are only ‘half the job’ so to speak. The whole upper assembly needs to move for full scope of adjustment. As you noticed they adjusted the IQ upwards as they wanted to. But it should be the whole assembly moving. I made the exact same mistake also. Now more ‘aware’ I do it correctly. In theory if you were to ‘whale’ on the top housing you could damage the bottom of the shaft that the cam resides on or break the cam off. Not recommended. Other than the wrong screws the guys here have made a decent video.. they aren’t the first nor will the be the last mention/use the wrong screws.
So Here's a question to the you tube world,By doing this is the pump putting out less fuel=Making less power?From my research,the lower the Injection Quantity is, will have an increased effect of fuel delivery/ consumption.Possibly to the excess ie., poor fuel economy,poor idle, also could have smoky exhaust otherwise known as 'ROLLIN COAL'.
So currently my Injector quantity is 1.0,im getting poor fuel economy,and very smoky with a bad idle ,but makes ooodles of power.If i hammer mod and make it 5 and its burning less fuel,i have to also be making less power right?I should state the reason why i care is i have a stg 3 perfomance tuned ecu and like the added power.
Thanks for any educated replies,
Andy if you ever have any positions open, let me know. I know my way around vehicles, and a jack of all trades car wise. anyhoo enough of that my friend. as always percussive maintenance, and a job well done sir. you could hear it improving. let alone what the numbers said.
I think the corect screws are bottom ones:))
You unscrew the wrong screws, next time read carrefouly the DIY downloaded from internet, or let the diesel specialist to repair your pump.Cheers.
LOL you can believe everything you see on youtube. Wrong screws on pump. Lower bolts for hammer mod.
If that motor is sitting over 250,000km, I would also look into new injector nozzles. Quite cheap and very easy to do. Stick with stock holes, or bump up a little.
Not the top ones but bottom, just one of the top..the spesial temper one
Hello! I have a 1.9 tdi agr 90 hp stock, the IQ is 2.8 / 3.0 MG with a temperature of 92 ° at idle and with everything off, are these values correct? If I increase the IQ more (close to 3.6 / 3.8 MG) I will to achieve better performance? thank you so much
Between 3 and 5 is ideal
do you know much about the Chryslers 3.8 engine?
How can i get The adaptation cod?
This procedure adjusts the quantity adjuster calibration. As this is a computer controlled engine, the actual injection quantity is determined by the computer to maintain idle speed of 903 RPM. Change to larger injectors and this number should drop.
How does that ecu do? Naturally on diesel engine rpm are regulated by injection quantity.
I have an alh, that had a bad injection pump, it was replaced by a reputable shop with a rebuild that failed just out of warranty, they eventually replaced it with an 11mm pump instead of a 10mm pump. soon after that the motor threw a valve through a piston, had everything rebuilt, now even though it runs great at cruising and acceleration, it shakes real bad at idle, they made adj to the qty adj via vagcom, but it has not cured the shake , I think it is running super rich at idle IMO. sometimes it goes away and idles super smooth but a few minutes later its rough again, I think the temp sensor is faulty and is misreading when the motor is warm and is dumping to much fuel at idle, is that even possible, or is it hammer mod time?
is the timing correct? what about the dual mass flwheel?
timing is spot on, I have come to believe it is a dirty injector, based on the info in this video :th-cam.com/video/rAOVL3C0dvg/w-d-xo.html symptoms are the same
running injector cleaner in the fuel seems to help, but a replacement may be required
I can't believe in the last couple of months the amount of tdi's we're getting in with lack of power. One of the most important things is the engine must and I mean must reach operating temps. If your therm is weak and opening at 78C or lower you're going to have massive issues. It's ok to see lower temps in the city on cold days but on the highway the temps must be over 85C.
Do you have a wifi code reader? I just bought one and can not get it to work. Any help would be appreciated!
mine uses blueteeth not wifi
also, dont forget that if it has a carb it more than likely wont have an OBD2 Connector to plug in lol
CHOPSHOPUNDERGROUND not compatible with ecu.
Percussive maintenance (:
Hi! I have a kinda big problem...Ive recently changed my injectors from
0.185 to 0.205. My IQ was 3.4 mg with the stock injectors (IQ value 128)
but with the new one it droped to 1.8 mg (same IQ value). I fine tune
it with VCDS but with the car still slower than it was. How can I bring
the IQ up to 3.2-3.4 IQ and the standard IQ value. Help please!
Jesus people stop getting envolved in this shit if you have no idea what you're doing. You're going to get hurt.
Chill out! The car us remaped and nobody got hurt!
"get hurt" as in car accident? LOL. You have to realize that Rob H is one of those kinda guys that "do everything right the first time or don't do it at all" He never makes a right turn out of his driveway because he's never been down that street before. But really Chuck, just google your question and i'm sure you will find this question and others because the vag com has been out many years and this is a common tweak. Sorry but your question is borderline lame.
ain't nuttin ya can't fix wit a hammer.
My Jetta made 5 more miles per gallon after doing this.
Where is your mpg now? And where did you let your numbers sit? I have VAGCOM to adjust my own 02 ALH Jetta TDI.
@@TheBlankenman sorry just seen this.. So this comment was for my 2002 jetta 5 speed. I was getting 40mpg and then after adjusting I got 45-46 mpg. I’m pretty sure I kept the quantity to like 3.5 and I had timing advanced a little on the injection pump to like 5 degrees but you can only advance it a little before getting timing codes. Also clean your mass air flow sensor with some maf cleaner or electrical contact cleaner in a spray can. I also put a new diesel filter in every 30,000 Miles or less. Also the sending unit in your fuel tank has a little filter on it so if you have a few hundred thousand miles on ur car I would definitely get a new sending unit so you know the filter on the sending unit is clean.. your injection pump sucks the diesel from the tank so you want to have clean filters all of these little things add up. If you do all of this and still have problems you could have injectors that are plugged up a bit so not a bad idea to replace them if you have a lot of miles on them. Make sure your brakes are working properly and none of the brake are binding.
My 2001 automatic gets over 40 mpg from these little adjustments and keeping things clean.
A BFH saves the day
hm lol He Loosen the top cover screw... and not the lower screw :D and that hammering :/ hungarian?.. I'm hungarian too.. gratulálok fiuk..
haha, that was incorrect.. but it still worked haha
:D It worked :D but that hammering :O It1s hurts me.. xd
Holy crap man, I started laughing when I saw this, it's the 4 lower bolts to make the adjustment and then I checked more of this on youtube and I can't believe the amount of boneheads that are doing it wrong!.....Guys it the 4 lower lower bolts..come on. Now I'm starting to wonder what kind of damage can be caused from doing it this way. You take the 4 top bolts out and lift the lid to check the sensors and make sure the screens don't have debris.
Rob H thats one thing that was wrong in this video. Another thinf was that this engine wasnt leanes out, it was too rich, and smacking the pump that way will lean it out. (The basic iq adjustment)
@@Skaude
Can you elaborate why it is not lean if they started from around 1-2 mg/stroke and got the fuel quantity higher to around 4?
Antti Harri sanooko ecun jännitekartat mitään?
Iq adaptoinnilla oikeesti asetetaan ns. Toimintapiste, ecua kun kusettaa näyttään tyhjäkäynnillä siten, että se luulee ruiskuttavansa vain esim 1mg/str, niin kaasu pohjassa se antaa oikeesti enemmän.
On aika vaikea selittää tällee kylmiltään mutta tyhjäkäynnin ruiskutusmäärähän ei muutu, koska tyhjäkäynnille on targettiarvo asetettu, ja pidiohjaus ecussa, eli mitä vähemmän ecu luulee että tyhjäkäynti vie ainetta, sitä enemmän se pystyy kaasusta ruikkasemaan sitä~
4 years later and here I am. When doing the hammer method it is actually the lower ‘screws’ but only 3 of them as the 4th screw is on the upper part of the pump adjust case. It’s the security screw.. so that with the lower screws are the ones to use . If you undo the top screws then you are moving only the top part of the fuel pump adjuster ..it has cam that engages in the lower portion. When the adjuster is energised it does a sweep on a potentiometer. That’s connected to the vertical arm that has a cam lobe on it which engages the lower part of the adjust mechanism. So the top screws are only ‘half the job’ so to speak. The whole upper assembly needs to move for full scope of adjustment. As you noticed they adjusted the IQ upwards as they wanted to. But it should be the whole assembly moving. I made the exact same mistake also. Now more ‘aware’ I do it correctly. In theory if you were to ‘whale’ on the top housing you could damage the bottom of the shaft that the cam resides on or break the cam off. Not recommended. Other than the wrong screws the guys here have made a decent video.. they aren’t the first nor will the be the last mention/use the wrong screws.
4 years later and here I am. When doing the hammer method it is actually the lower ‘screws’ but only 3 of them as the 4th screw is on the upper part of the pump adjust case. It’s the security screw.. so that with the lower screws are the ones to use . If you undo the top screws then you are moving only the top part of the fuel pump adjuster ..it has cam that engages in the lower portion. When the adjuster is energised it does a sweep on a potentiometer. That’s connected to the vertical arm that has a cam lobe on it which engages the lower part of the adjust mechanism. So the top screws are only ‘half the job’ so to speak. The whole upper assembly needs to move for full scope of adjustment. As you noticed they adjusted the IQ upwards as they wanted to. But it should be the whole assembly moving. I made the exact same mistake also. Now more ‘aware’ I do it correctly. In theory if you were to ‘whale’ on the top housing you could damage the bottom of the shaft that the cam resides on or break the cam off. Not recommended. Other than the wrong screws the guys here have made a decent video.. they aren’t the first nor will the be the last mention/use the wrong screws.