I've watched this video 10 times and I don't know what it is but I cannot get enough of Ron. He's at peace, got it all figured out, not a care in the world.
when u set post I like the concrete to be mounded above the existing ground this prevents water from sitting and rotting out the post. I do that with 4x4 wooden posts too prevents water rotting out the post. Most post setter don't do this that's why I end up doing a lot of fence jobs with rotted out pipes and wooden posts.
Built many tube/post structures - greenhouses and the like. Always marked the posts and set them just like this. Works great. Run string and set to depth mark.
If you put a PVC pipe in first, leaving a little above ground level as a liner you will eliminate a lot of problems. Also makes replacement or removal of the post a lot easier. Another trick from an old-timer is to put a 1/2 rebar inside the metal post and fill with hydraulic cement. Eliminates any bending from wind pressure, but you have to enlarge the hole and use a little more concrete.
+rob gordon what do you mean, ? by enlarge the hole? you mean make the hole much wider ? so technically first dig a hole make it another 1 wider wider and 3 feet deep right, mix concrete and pour it fill the hole 95% later put the 8foot pipe into the hole with a 1/2 rebar , how long the rebar has to be about 2-3 feet ? so I put the hydraulic cement into the hole of the pipe so goes down and fills up covering the , does it has to cover the rebar? hydraulic cement will seal and dry covering the rebar and stay strong dry so it don't bend the 8 foot post pipe.. I'm asking so many questions I'm sorry , I'm trying to build my own fence with galvanized pipe , I don't know if I should but 9ft pipe, 10ft or just 8ft pipe, 2 ft goes into the 3 feet hole and 6ft will be out exposed, I just got my permit from my City so I can build my fence, I'm from Florida so here rains alot and gets hot too real hot.. but also we get alot of wind and I'm doing a board on board fence, I wanted to do the shadow box style fence but I have 2 big pitbulls.. so that can't happen I want board on board fence for total Privacy and make my fence very strong solid, against wind weather and all.. solid as possible as I can, I know I have to do a post every 8ft apart can I do it every 5ft apart so I can have more strength, I'm doing board on board wood, and metal post galvanized, any help guys.. lmk thanks..
"We dag the holes yesterday" past tense dig i supposed 😅 love how his hard hat is leaning like he really doesn't care to much lmao but on a serious note this video provided good tips thank bud
So reason #1 is to avoid having to trim the top of the post to the correct height. Reason #2 is using shorter posts to save material cost (assuming you can order the posts in custom lengths). Reason #3, not mentioned, is keeping the end of the post above the bottom of the hole to protect it from corrosion. On spec work it is not permitted to backfill the top of the hole with dirt, rather the concrete goes all the way up to ground level and is domed slightly for drainage. This is to protect against corrosion. If frost heave is a problem, the hole should be widened at the bottom (bell-bottom).
#1. You will never get the correct height right on a long fence line. #2 saving that extra tiny bit of money on a shorter post means you will not get the strength of the long post. You intentionally just created a weak spot for the concrete/post to sheer (simple physics) #3 having the post at the bottom of the hole (which is 2.5-3' down is where it should be. Corrosion down there will not matter. Doming concrete like that can be a problem if you're laying fencing across the face which is why many don't do it.
@@marcschroter4264 thanks, well we've been at this quite a while. And I've had the privilege of working with some Expert Fence builders. Just like when you build any type of foundation they set the rebar and steel as deep as they can into it. You never see them float Steel i-beams to height, so why would you do it with steel poles. That said this looks like somebody's commercial job and they cut Corners all the time trying to save money, so I'm not surprised. Saving money means more profit for them. But I would not do this around my house nor would I recommend it
We all know, plenty of water gets between the post and concrete, no matter what you do, but the dome thing for appearance is great. Maybe it " deflects" some water, but we're talking out doors here, year round.
@@treeguyable dome your concrete like that and then try to put chain link fence against it. It really messes up the bottom. Looks even worse if you want to box your posts for a wooden fence. Good in theory, but bad in the practice.
I’m putting posts in tomorrow at my place but I plan drop in some concrete in the hole first then put the post and fill around while plumbing, I feel I need maximum coverage of my post for lateral strength otherwise it will just get knocked over With a little pressure
Thanks! Floating or placing the post after the concrete is great idea and most of your video also contains very useful information. I'll be capping the top of my post!
I dig my hole about 6" short of my final depth and drive the post the last 6" (keeping them plumb and level) and pour my cement to about 4" below ground level and let them set over night.
@@kevinm8865 they're trying to be cheap and cut corners. On Commercial jobs like that it's very common. But if this was your house I'd be pissed if somebody did it that way
77Avadon77 so whats the best way to do this? I got a free chain link fence that somebody pulled up and it looks like they drove the post into dirt than poured concrete and the exposed post below the concrete are all rusted. Would you recommend reusing these posts?
@@nmjhd1234 yes I don't think that's any problem to reuse the posts. Is there a lot of post that's rusted? If it were me I'd clean off the rust the best I could. Perhaps pressure wash it, or use an angle grinder with a stripping disc. You don't need to get them perfect just relatively clean of rust scale. Then you can reset them in new holes and pour concrete in on them.
Placing soil above the concrete footings against the galvanized post will cause premature corrosion rust and failure of the post especially when using thin wall tubing such as .065 wall ( 16 gauge ) galv. posts in residential applications. A.S.T.M. specifications require concrete footings on galvanized posts to be coved top protruding above soil level. Frost heaving can be eliminated by keeping the side walls of your post holes vertical, not cone shaped, and setting that footing well below the local frost line. There is an advantage to having the post extend all the way through the concrete footings and that is because it allows for drainage into the soil of possible condensate build-up inside the post in humid climates with wide temperature swings, this can occur even when the post is properly capped. This is not normally a problem with thick wall schedule 40 pipe, so float away. Tip from AZ licensed Fence Contractor
+Michael Waterman I'm from Florida , here rains like hell, same gets hot too and lots of humidity , also wind too, I have permit to build my own fence, but I want to do it galvanized post with wood , board on board, each post 8ft apart, can I do it every 5ft or 6ft.. to make it much stronger. now you say, the tube wall .065 wall it's too thin right? the (16 gauge) , what number would you consider better ?.. for a house residency. I want privacy but also make my fence stronger, any tips help I will appreciate thanks
When digging your hole make it look like a elephants foot at the bottom of the hole flair it that will help with the frost problem.Imo I would put concrete to the top so water wont build up on the top 4 inches.
Then I'm sorry for your customers because this is a shit way of doing a fence installation. Posts should be in all the way to the bottom of the hole and then concrete poured in around it. They've been doing it this way literally since concrete was invented. Cutting corners=problems.
@@dmurphy5852 not at all. I worked around professional fence Builders and they don't float their poles. And there are numerous reasons why. You've immensely reduced the strength of the steel in the concrete by doing that. It's just like when you make rebar dowels, there's a reason why there was a spec for How Deep The rebar must go into the concrete. It might be fine on some of these commercial jobs where they're just putting up chain link and they don't care. But this is not the gold standard way of doing it. This is the half ass, get it done cheap and fast way. Did you also see how dry that concrete was. There's not going to be great adhesion there. He even mentioned that although tried to cover his ass.
@@77Avadon77 I was meaning something like 2" shy of breaking through the concrete on the bottom of the hole, only to jacket the post from water contact. I dig my holes deeper than spec to accommodate for this anyhow. I believe shallow sinking your posts is just laziness
@@dmurphy5852 I wouldn't be too concerned about jacking the post in concrete but if you are putting posts in a very wet environment and maybe that could be a concern as moisture could come up through the inside diameter of the Pole. I've dug out very old fence post and never seen a problem with that. Another thought is that you could cap them with either plastic from Alliance Express or a galvanized steel cap. Again no I don't think this is too much of a concern unless you're almost in a swamp or marine environment
Yes floating is first dig your hole then fill it with a oatmeal like texture of concrete leaving about 4 inches to top for dirt then slide post in concrete plum to string line. Level your post and dirt it . That's the process I work for all quality fence out of ledge wood nj
I rarely build fences. I tried this years ago and the concrete was too hard for me to sink the post down. I ended up with a post that was not deep enough into the concrete. I guess the mix has to be just right. Too thick and you can't sink the post. Too thin and your concrete will be weak.
I used this method for my post and post went down without any issues at all and concrete was thick not watery sounds to me like your hole was too narrow my hole was 1ft wide and post was 3" sank to the bottom easily
I must be slow, because I'm not understanding the part about saving money on posts. For example, I'm putting up 6' chain mesh, so I plan on cementing my 8' posts 26" in the ground to make my post height 70". So, how would I save money on posts? Would the suggestion here be that I would use a shorter post, less than what is recommended?
I am with you easy rider, cement is only a small portion of the components of a product called CONCRETE. Concrete would commonly contain 4 parts of sand, 2 parts of gravel, and 1 part of cement. Add water to suit.
Water will also fill the pipe from below. It will fill the pipe all the way to the top.. I've seen it happen. I've seen pipe that people capped still be full of water. The only way it could get in is from the bottom. The way you do it should help prevent that. It's called capillary action.
2:22 drill a hole and put a rod at right angles and it will not sink. For good stability at least 1/3 into the ground. And yes, it's less profit but higher guarentee.
Might make it quicker and/or easier to install them but if you're filling the bottom of the pipes with concrete you're risking water getting in and having no way to drain out thus will much more quickly lead to corrosion, and in states where temperatures reach below freezing you now have the chance of the pipes splitting after water in them freezes and expands...yes, caps are supposed to go on top of the pipes but like with countless other things we were told how this and that product is a full-proof method of preventing this and that but then later on we see how they were full of sales hype and so if you're going to spend all of this time, work, and money on such a product, do it the way you know that if water does find it's way in the pipes there's a way for it to drain back out.
That is why full length post and have 100mm of crushed rock on the base amd sit post on crushed rock. Water gets inside of post drains out the crushed rock on the bottom.
What can you do with one foot of 2 1/2" commercial pipe? Other than recycle it for a fraction of the cost. I guess it all depends on the length of the pipe before it's cut into 9ft posts. Did I miss that?
I wouldn't. And I didn't use this technique. It is not as strong as poles going all the way into the hole and pouring the concrete around the pole. This is kind of a half-assed method. They do it because on Commercial projects nobody cares because it's not their property and they want it done fast and cheaply
Ya but you don't have to cut a post just because you didn't float them. You get every hole ready with post markings then put the post in the ground at the height it is supposed to be and add concrete. done. If there is a question of height, etc., then leaving the posts taller helps because then you just cut it. But, I wouldn't want to cut a bunch of posts
So floating the posts down in the cement will it give stronger stability of the post? What would be the difference if any to set the post in the ground dry pour cement around pole then fill pole in with cement up to 2 feet wouldn't that be much the same thing as floating?
@@craigolson1822 If the object is to surround the bottom of the pipe with wet concrete, would it be ok to just pour in enough mixed concrete to do that and then pour in dry concrete to fill the rest of the hole and wet...why would I want to do that? Because I'll be doing this job myself and mixing the cement in a wheelbarrow manually, which for my age will be strenuous for me, so I'm trying to save a bit of energy on the mixing work and only mix what I need.
Carolyn Wolfe - I don't see anything wrong with that as long as you don't let the first pour cure before adding the dry mix to the hole on top of it. My point was to be sure to encapsulate the bottom of the pipe.
Should I pour any mixed concrete inside of the metal fence posts to add stability? Or should concrete posts not have anything poured inside of the posts?
@@LCEnterprisesUSA oh, I asked because I checked the posts that I set yesterday and I noticed that a couple of them moved when I checked how sturdy they were. Maybe they will take a couple days to set.
I pulled fence out for some work, now I need to put them back. There's already concrete on the bottom of the poles. Do I still need to dig a bigger hole and pour more concrete? If we can use pipe to pour in concrete for the 1st time installation, it should work without additional concrete for the 2nd time installation, right?
You are right, a vibrator would give you much better adhesion. Once you set a post in concrete like that you are likely creating voids which are going to diminish your strength.
Galvanized post within at least a 2" wall of concrete around the steel, with enough cement to water ration, becomes a natural protector, except if the ground is very acidic (acid rain) or salts are used, such as deicing. The tops of the post need to be capped to prevent water from entering and staying inside the pole.
I have a question maybe someone can answer for me. I'm putting up 150' feet of chainlink mesh all in a straight line, and my rolls of fencing come in 50' rolls. Should I plan on putting in an end post at the end of each 50' ? Or, is it ok to just splice (3) 50' rolls together and have all line posts in between?
You should call the building code office in your county and they would give you the correct info, lots of states have different zones so the depth could be different than others, your state gets really cold.
concrete is too stiff to fit post. Post winds up not touching concrete if you wiggle it any when installing. Looks to me like you need more fluid concrete to make this work
Thank you! I'm glad I'm not the only one to see this is a shitty install. He basically just created a weak failure point for the concrete and the post to sheer since they are not full mated.
That's really not hard to do at all. I have 120 posts on my property and I did it after the concrete was set and unless you're super messy a flat chisel will break off any tiny bits of splatter.
This is a horrible way to do this. So basically because you're too cheap to buy the right poles which would be 11-12' you want to "float your post" which will incredibly weaken the post. You're also pushing your post into the concrete which is not the proper way to set a post in concrete. You need to have the post in first, and then pour concrete around it. This is a poor installation that will give problems later.
77Avadon77 I'd did agree for two reason. A) he is saving money on post length. B) like rebar it's nice to have proper coverage around and at bottom of bollard
not to seem like a douchebag but cement, Concrete and Ready Mix are three different things. Cement is dust that will fly away. Cement is the finished product. Ready mix is what you put in befor it hardens into concrete.
Especially when it comes to elevation, things have a tendency to sink if they are not being braced very carefully. It's easier to hold a pole level that sitting at the bottom of the hole then to hold it at an elevation which is why this technique is not common, also you've greatly reduced the Shear strength off the pole.
What in the name of Jesus did I just watch?! Down here in Texas we dig our holes 10" in diameter atleast 3' deep 5' centered posts posts touching the ground set in maximizer concrete 120 pounds per post that's how you build a real fence. Doing it this way you will never have a straight line nor the strength it needs
![[Live] : ONE 168 วันนี้!! "โจนาธาน vs ซุปเปอร์เล็ก"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0jIN65KgJsI/mqdefault.jpg)
I've watched this video 10 times and I don't know what it is but I cannot get enough of Ron. He's at peace, got it all figured out, not a care in the world.
when u set post I like the concrete to be mounded above the existing ground this prevents water from sitting and rotting out the post. I do that with 4x4 wooden posts too prevents water rotting out the post. Most post setter don't do this that's why I end up doing a lot of fence jobs with rotted out pipes and wooden posts.
Built many tube/post structures - greenhouses and the like. Always marked the posts and set them just like this. Works great. Run string and set to depth mark.
If you put a PVC pipe in first, leaving a little above ground level as a liner you will eliminate a lot of problems. Also makes replacement or removal of the post a lot easier. Another trick from an old-timer is to put a 1/2 rebar inside the metal post and fill with hydraulic cement. Eliminates any bending from wind pressure, but you have to enlarge the hole and use a little more concrete.
+rob gordon what do you mean, ? by enlarge the hole? you mean make the hole much wider ? so technically first dig a hole make it another 1 wider wider and 3 feet deep right, mix concrete and pour it fill the hole 95% later put the 8foot pipe into the hole with a 1/2 rebar , how long the rebar has to be about 2-3 feet ? so I put the hydraulic cement into the hole of the pipe so goes down and fills up covering the , does it has to cover the rebar? hydraulic cement will seal and dry covering the rebar and stay strong dry so it don't bend the 8 foot post pipe.. I'm asking so many questions I'm sorry , I'm trying to build my own fence with galvanized pipe , I don't know if I should but 9ft pipe, 10ft or just 8ft pipe, 2 ft goes into the 3 feet hole and 6ft will be out exposed, I just got my permit from my City so I can build my fence, I'm from Florida so here rains alot and gets hot too real hot.. but also we get alot of wind and I'm doing a board on board fence, I wanted to do the shadow box style fence but I have 2 big pitbulls.. so that can't happen I want board on board fence for total Privacy and make my fence very strong solid, against wind weather and all.. solid as possible as I can, I know I have to do a post every 8ft apart can I do it every 5ft apart so I can have more strength, I'm doing board on board wood, and metal post galvanized, any help guys.. lmk thanks..
I'm looking at replacing my wodden posts with galvanized line posts.
Is there a video for the pvc?
"We dag the holes yesterday" past tense dig i supposed 😅 love how his hard hat is leaning like he really doesn't care to much lmao but on a serious note this video provided good tips thank bud
So reason #1 is to avoid having to trim the top of the post to the correct height. Reason #2 is using shorter posts to save material cost (assuming you can order the posts in custom lengths). Reason #3, not mentioned, is keeping the end of the post above the bottom of the hole to protect it from corrosion. On spec work it is not permitted to backfill the top of the hole with dirt, rather the concrete goes all the way up to ground level and is domed slightly for drainage. This is to protect against corrosion. If frost heave is a problem, the hole should be widened at the bottom (bell-bottom).
#1. You will never get the correct height right on a long fence line. #2 saving that extra tiny bit of money on a shorter post means you will not get the strength of the long post. You intentionally just created a weak spot for the concrete/post to sheer (simple physics) #3 having the post at the bottom of the hole (which is 2.5-3' down is where it should be. Corrosion down there will not matter.
Doming concrete like that can be a problem if you're laying fencing across the face which is why many don't do it.
@@77Avadon77 These 2 comments are better than the whole video.
@@marcschroter4264 thanks, well we've been at this quite a while. And I've had the privilege of working with some Expert Fence builders. Just like when you build any type of foundation they set the rebar and steel as deep as they can into it. You never see them float Steel i-beams to height, so why would you do it with steel poles. That said this looks like somebody's commercial job and they cut Corners all the time trying to save money, so I'm not surprised. Saving money means more profit for them. But I would not do this around my house nor would I recommend it
We all know, plenty of water gets between the post and concrete, no matter what you do, but the dome thing for appearance is great. Maybe it " deflects" some water, but we're talking out doors here, year round.
@@treeguyable dome your concrete like that and then try to put chain link fence against it. It really messes up the bottom. Looks even worse if you want to box your posts for a wooden fence. Good in theory, but bad in the practice.
I’m putting posts in tomorrow at my place but I plan drop in some concrete in the hole first then put the post and fill around while plumbing, I feel I need maximum coverage of my post for lateral strength otherwise it will just get knocked over With a little pressure
Thanks! Floating or placing the post after the concrete is great idea and most of your video also contains very useful information. I'll be capping the top of my post!
I have never seen a fencers boots that clean
douglasfence We'll make sure we give him a hard time for you.
Great post about posts. Lol
Just started my career in fencing. Very interesting
Thank you, this was simple and to the point and very good info for my project! 🙏
I dig my hole about 6" short of my final depth and drive the post the last 6" (keeping them plumb and level) and pour my cement to about 4" below ground level and let them set over night.
Just so you know that you're exposing Earth to your Steel and speeding up the rust process by doing that.
@@77Avadon77 LoL! They said it proud too. I was confused why they would go thru the hassle of driving the parts into the earth.
@@kevinm8865 they're trying to be cheap and cut corners. On Commercial jobs like that it's very common. But if this was your house I'd be pissed if somebody did it that way
77Avadon77 so whats the best way to do this? I got a free chain link fence that somebody pulled up and it looks like they drove the post into dirt than poured concrete and the exposed post below the concrete are all rusted. Would you recommend reusing these posts?
@@nmjhd1234 yes I don't think that's any problem to reuse the posts. Is there a lot of post that's rusted? If it were me I'd clean off the rust the best I could. Perhaps pressure wash it, or use an angle grinder with a stripping disc. You don't need to get them perfect just relatively clean of rust scale. Then you can reset them in new holes and pour concrete in on them.
Placing soil above the concrete footings against the galvanized post will cause premature corrosion rust and failure of the post especially when using thin wall tubing such as .065 wall ( 16 gauge ) galv. posts in residential applications. A.S.T.M. specifications require concrete footings on galvanized posts to be coved top protruding above soil level. Frost heaving can be eliminated by keeping the side walls of your post holes vertical, not cone shaped, and setting that footing well below the local frost line. There is an advantage to having the post extend all the way through the concrete footings and that is because it allows for drainage into the soil of possible condensate build-up inside the post in humid climates with wide temperature swings, this can occur even when the post is properly capped. This is not normally a problem with thick wall schedule 40 pipe, so float away. Tip from AZ licensed Fence Contractor
+Michael Waterman I'm from Florida , here rains like hell, same gets hot too and lots of humidity , also wind too, I have permit to build my own fence, but I want to do it galvanized post with wood , board on board, each post 8ft apart, can I do it every 5ft or 6ft.. to make it much stronger. now you say, the tube wall .065 wall it's too thin right? the (16 gauge) , what number would you consider better ?.. for a house residency. I want privacy but also make my fence stronger, any tips help I will appreciate thanks
Use sch40 galvanized posts 7.5' on center. Build it right or do not build it at all.
Michael Waterman he explained it with the frost
When digging your hole make it look like a elephants foot at the bottom of the hole flair it that will help with the frost problem.Imo I would put concrete to the top so water wont build up on the top 4 inches.
We've been doing this since 1978 at Malone Fence Company in Salem MA
#chainlink #fences
Then I'm sorry for your customers because this is a shit way of doing a fence installation. Posts should be in all the way to the bottom of the hole and then concrete poured in around it. They've been doing it this way literally since concrete was invented. Cutting corners=problems.
@@77Avadon77 The method shown in this video is a superior method to the way you described. Assuming the post is just shy of the bottom of the hole
@@dmurphy5852 not at all. I worked around professional fence Builders and they don't float their poles. And there are numerous reasons why. You've immensely reduced the strength of the steel in the concrete by doing that. It's just like when you make rebar dowels, there's a reason why there was a spec for How Deep The rebar must go into the concrete. It might be fine on some of these commercial jobs where they're just putting up chain link and they don't care. But this is not the gold standard way of doing it. This is the half ass, get it done cheap and fast way.
Did you also see how dry that concrete was. There's not going to be great adhesion there. He even mentioned that although tried to cover his ass.
@@77Avadon77 I was meaning something like 2" shy of breaking through the concrete on the bottom of the hole, only to jacket the post from water contact. I dig my holes deeper than spec to accommodate for this anyhow. I believe shallow sinking your posts is just laziness
@@dmurphy5852 I wouldn't be too concerned about jacking the post in concrete but if you are putting posts in a very wet environment and maybe that could be a concern as moisture could come up through the inside diameter of the Pole. I've dug out very old fence post and never seen a problem with that. Another thought is that you could cap them with either plastic from Alliance Express or a galvanized steel cap. Again no I don't think this is too much of a concern unless you're almost in a swamp or marine environment
Yes floating is first dig your hole then fill it with a oatmeal like texture of concrete leaving about 4 inches to top for dirt then slide post in concrete plum to string line. Level your post and dirt it . That's the process I work for all quality fence out of ledge wood nj
Thank you sir for this very informative video... will be building a chain link fence soon and this is what i was lookin for...
Can't understand why people dig with Bobcats. Seems to me, Moles or Gophers would be more suitable.
Excellent idea 💡
So helpful! I’ve had such frustration trying to find this exact info. Thank you
I rarely build fences. I tried this years ago and the concrete was too hard for me to sink the post down. I ended up with a post that was not deep enough into the concrete. I guess the mix has to be just right. Too thick and you can't sink the post. Too thin and your concrete will be weak.
Yep, you exactly figured out just one of the many reasons people never do this. Even instructions from Home Depot will tell you not to do this.
Yeah and we all know Home Depot are experts on fence building. LMAO.
I used this method for my post and post went down without any issues at all and concrete was thick not watery sounds to me like your hole was too narrow my hole was 1ft wide and post was 3" sank to the bottom easily
I must be slow, because I'm not understanding the part about saving money on posts. For example, I'm putting up 6' chain mesh, so I plan on cementing my 8' posts 26" in the ground to make my post height 70". So, how would I save money on posts? Would the suggestion here be that I would use a shorter post, less than what is recommended?
Thank you
You're welcome
I am with you easy rider, cement is only a small portion of the components of a product called CONCRETE.
Concrete would commonly contain 4 parts of sand, 2 parts of gravel, and 1 part of cement. Add water to suit.
3 parts sand- not 4
Hey, that was VERY useful! Thanks for posting it.
It's actually a very bad idea
@@77Avadon77 why!?
Thank you for this. Always good to watch what pros do even though I can't afford them ! he he
Water will also fill the pipe from below. It will fill the pipe all the way to the top.. I've seen it happen. I've seen pipe that people capped still be full of water. The only way it could get in is from the bottom. The way you do it should help prevent that. It's called capillary action.
Wet concrete swells a wood post. When it sets, cures, and the post dries out, wobble happens.
I am no expert, but I would wrap the post in Saranwrap to keep the post dry while concrete cures.
2:22 drill a hole and put a rod at right angles and it will not sink. For good stability at least 1/3 into the ground. And yes, it's less profit but higher guarentee.
Dag....the Past tense of dig .🙈
Muy buenos ejemplos siga asi gracias aestos videos yo pude aser mi serco
Might make it quicker and/or easier to install them but if you're filling the bottom of the pipes with concrete you're risking water getting in and having no way to drain out thus will much more quickly lead to corrosion, and in states where temperatures reach below freezing you now have the chance of the pipes splitting after water in them freezes and expands...yes, caps are supposed to go on top of the pipes but like with countless other things we were told how this and that product is a full-proof method of preventing this and that but then later on we see how they were full of sales hype and so if you're going to spend all of this time, work, and money on such a product, do it the way you know that if water does find it's way in the pipes there's a way for it to drain back out.
GGG by ugh GGG oh why
etc the by h.45 hbbyhhyh
I have had corrosion as you said when post was installed this way.
That is why full length post and have 100mm of crushed rock on the base amd sit post on crushed rock. Water gets inside of post drains out the crushed rock on the bottom.
What can you do with one foot of 2 1/2" commercial pipe? Other than recycle it for a fraction of the cost.
I guess it all depends on the length of the pipe before it's cut into 9ft posts. Did I miss that?
They're ordered (custom or otherwise) a foot shorter. They don't have that excess in the first place, so nothing to cut off.
How would you float a 12ft 4in schedule 40 post?
He wouldn't be able to LOL
Can you use this method if using poles for a 6' wooden fence indeed of chain link?
I wouldn't. And I didn't use this technique. It is not as strong as poles going all the way into the hole and pouring the concrete around the pole. This is kind of a half-assed method. They do it because on Commercial projects nobody cares because it's not their property and they want it done fast and cheaply
Dag the holes? Damn, never heard that. Here I thought I had "dug" all the holes in my life, when I actually "dag" them. Live and learn.
Ya but you don't have to cut a post just because you didn't float them. You get every hole ready with post markings then put the post in the ground at the height it is supposed to be and add concrete. done. If there is a question of height, etc., then leaving the posts taller helps because then you just cut it. But, I wouldn't want to cut a bunch of posts
what do think about using a ratchet strap to pull tight chain link fence??? and not a come-along.. i just saw a guy use one on you tube....
I would avoid driving the steel posts with a maul, because it will distort out of round and make it difficult to place caps!"
Monsieur Chouinard knows his shit when it comes to fences! Oops, pardon my French.
great information enjoyed it....concrete deeper than frost line...nice
So floating the posts down in the cement will it give stronger stability of the post? What would be the difference if any to set the post in the ground dry pour cement around pole then fill pole in with cement up to 2 feet wouldn't that be much the same thing as floating?
No because with floating, the concrete completely surrounds the bottom of the pipe.
@@craigolson1822 If the object is to surround the bottom of the pipe with wet concrete, would it be ok to just pour in enough mixed concrete to do that and then pour in dry concrete to fill the rest of the hole and wet...why would I want to do that? Because I'll be doing this job myself and mixing the cement in a wheelbarrow manually, which for my age will be strenuous for me, so I'm trying to save a bit of energy on the mixing work and only mix what I need.
Carolyn Wolfe - I don't see anything wrong with that as long as you don't let the first pour cure before adding the dry mix to the hole on top of it. My point was to be sure to encapsulate the bottom of the pipe.
@@craigolson1822 ok thanks
@@carolynwolfe5023 How did it turn out Carolyn? Nice to see women comment. I am 75, single woman farmer, doing everything myself too.
Very informative, thank you.
Should I pour any mixed concrete inside of the metal fence posts to add stability? Or should concrete posts not have anything poured inside of the posts?
There is no need to pour concrete in the posts.
@@LCEnterprisesUSA oh, I asked because I checked the posts that I set yesterday and I noticed that a couple of them moved when I checked how sturdy they were. Maybe they will take a couple days to set.
I pulled fence out for some work, now I need to put them back. There's already concrete on the bottom of the poles. Do I still need to dig a bigger hole and pour more concrete? If we can use pipe to pour in concrete for the 1st time installation, it should work without additional concrete for the 2nd time installation, right?
Needs some vibration as posts are being set for best results.
LMAO Bullshit!
You are right, a vibrator would give you much better adhesion. Once you set a post in concrete like that you are likely creating voids which are going to diminish your strength.
@@OldDunollieman you're an idiot
Great video and very useful information.
Hello, would the post be corroded by the concrete? what kind of post are there , cheers
Galvanized post within at least a 2" wall of concrete around the steel, with enough cement to water ration, becomes a natural protector, except if the ground is very acidic (acid rain) or salts are used, such as deicing. The tops of the post need to be capped to prevent water from entering and staying inside the pole.
Nice article. Thanks for sharing.
Dang do i do it wrong. 4"post 30 inch in ground. 4ft high chain link Dang
I have a question maybe someone can answer for me. I'm putting up 150' feet of chainlink mesh all in a straight line, and my rolls of fencing come in 50' rolls. Should I plan on putting in an end post at the end of each 50' ? Or, is it ok to just splice (3) 50' rolls together and have all line posts in between?
It is fine to splice the rolls together. Our recommendation is to stretch the fabric around the halfway point.
@@LCEnterprisesUSA stretch the fabric at the halfway point, but keep going and attach it to the end post at the 160' point, right? ty
@@carolynwolfe5023 Correct. You will stretch the fabric once again once you get closer to the final end post, roughly a foot or two from the end post.
@@LCEnterprisesUSA sounds good. thanks for your post
Thanks for information that's great
Is this fast drying cement?
Why not skip the drilling and crete, and drive a longer post? Seems you've added labor and expense doing it like this? Educate me please.
Question: Would 2 feet be deep enough for 8 foot metal post in Minneapolis MN? Nice to find a video from another cold-weather climate!
You should call the building code office in your county and they would give you the correct info, lots of states have different zones so the depth could be different than others, your state gets really cold.
Posts haven't been primed
concrete is too stiff to fit post. Post winds up not touching concrete if you wiggle it any when installing. Looks to me like you need more fluid concrete to make this work
Thank you! I'm glad I'm not the only one to see this is a shitty install. He basically just created a weak failure point for the concrete and the post to sheer since they are not full mated.
No, he explained the slump and viscosity.
The post didn't get metal rebars welded vertically at the base, this is very important for stability and longevity.
For a 6ft fence?? He has 3ft holes
most excellent ..
Usa and indonesia loved
Good post
This is not my preferred method, but whatever it is that damages this two foot set... Would do the same damage to a three foot set
Depends on where the frost heave is
You left out the best reason to do this.. So you don't have to wipe off the dried concrete from the bottom of the post
That's really not hard to do at all. I have 120 posts on my property and I did it after the concrete was set and unless you're super messy a flat chisel will break off any tiny bits of splatter.
He lost me at "dag" the holes.
I like dags!
..it's English.. 'Dig..Dug..Dag'..😆
DAG NABBIT batman!!!
I am so surprised and overjoyed that the top comment had to do with daggin holes.
Ha, I'm glad I'm not the only one that caught that.
You should work in indiav
thanks!
can I use this method when I use 4"x4" pt wood posts?
NO. The wood will stay inside a pocket of concrete and rot REALLY FAST from water running down.
I dig my hole ,then hammer it into the bottom soil with wood on top of the post, then hammer time ,Keep it plumb, right dept then QUIKRETE.
By the time you are setting your string line, I already set alot of posts. I eye ball them it's faster and better.
smart 👏
This is a horrible way to do this. So basically because you're too cheap to buy the right poles which would be 11-12' you want to "float your post" which will incredibly weaken the post. You're also pushing your post into the concrete which is not the proper way to set a post in concrete. You need to have the post in first, and then pour concrete around it. This is a poor installation that will give problems later.
77Avadon77 I'd did agree for two reason. A) he is saving money on post length.
B) like rebar it's nice to have proper coverage around and at bottom of bollard
The only way I know how
How y dig???
Lol.. this guy talks funny
I can dag it.
You lose the savings in labor
Rocket science.
supar
الله وأكبر
hard to take you serious with your hard hat all jacked up.
There is no such word as "heighth"
And he says dag instead of dug XD
gregsdates - There is now.
not to seem like a douchebag but cement, Concrete and Ready Mix are three different things. Cement is dust that will fly away. Cement is the finished product. Ready mix is what you put in befor it hardens into concrete.
Concrete **
+Easy Rider Even my 3 year old knows it's CONCRETE not cement!!
The very reason I clicked on this video. Cement is an ingredient in concrete!!! Calling concrete,cement is like calling cake, flour!!! Keep Rocking!!!
you will never ever set perfect straight posts that way. Post always find way to get off the line when you drive in. But idea is cleaver. 4+
Especially when it comes to elevation, things have a tendency to sink if they are not being braced very carefully. It's easier to hold a pole level that sitting at the bottom of the hole then to hold it at an elevation which is why this technique is not common, also you've greatly reduced the Shear strength off the pole.
What in the name of Jesus did I just watch?! Down here in Texas we dig our holes 10" in diameter atleast 3' deep 5' centered posts posts touching the ground set in maximizer concrete 120 pounds per post that's how you build a real fence. Doing it this way you will never have a straight line nor the strength it needs
Bullshit! 120lbs per post? GTFO.lol
dag not dig, stupid
@@OldDunollieman bags of concrete are 80lbs..
Can't take this guy's 'expert' advice seriously, while he wears his hard-hat crooked like that.
Clown.
I don't understand why concrete is necessary. If aggregate was used the water will drain faster and the longevity of post would increase.
thank you