300Tdi engine rebuild. The crank seal leaks! But why?
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Just sitting having breakfast listening to Herman's Hermits and watching your video, thinking back to the time of Herman's Hermits when I was an apprentice in a workshop. Mike what you just experienced with that rear crank seal is what the old tradesmen used to call an "aww shit!" moment...
Worked it out!
Hay up, I’m not saying your wrong but I have worked with engines using a seal that is like this , the reason you put them on dry is because as you start the engine the friction heats them up and they melt in to shape, like heat shrink. Love the show!! 10/10
Almost - see next video!
When I found I had to work tomorrow instead of being off, I remembered it often happens to Mike like that, so i was inspired to just get on with it. Thanks Mike.
Now I have to reschedule my plans! I am sure I can find something to do....
IT's at a time like this a raccoon would come in handy for the blame game. So sorry to see such a craftsman come unstuck by such a simple thing like a wrong part being supplied. I'm sure that you will rise above it and put it in the memory box for next time. Many thanks for sharing it Mike. Hope things go better soon. Rob.
Ha! I worked it out and it is not the seal! I will do a video tomorrow, but it is so simple it is stupid!
Instructions on some seals says to leave for x amount of hour to shrink back befor starting the engine as they come in the packet with the guide all ready installed in the seal .had this first hand with a frends 300 tdi fitted one it leaked new one came slack as hell left it guide out overnight and next day was right
This was left 12 hours
Crap seal then can not be anything else . Wonder if long term storage affects them with having the guide tool pre loaded
Bloody lucky you're diligent enough to smoke-test the engine during construction.
The vast majority of us would just have to trust in new parts, bung it together and only discover the problem once it's full of oil.
One thing, if you're desperate...
Does the rubber oil-seal have a metal spring around it?
If so, maybe try swapping the metal spring out of the old seal into the new one.
It'd be a bit of a bodge for a new part, though.
Sorted 0 see next video !
Mike, I just had this exact problem with a 300 I rebuilt! Put it in the truck and everything was perfect except for oil puking out to the bell housing. I knew it had to be the crank seal -- now I know why! Unfortunately, I have to pull the engine to correct it. Thanks for showing that!
Has to be a bad batch of seals!
Britannica Restorations Ltd, no, just typical Britpart crap.
I did wonder if the install tool, the white plastic thing has stretched it, Anyway when i put my 300tdi in my series, i got one of these and then realised i have the 200tdi flywheel housing! so it won't go on, different seal set up, all done now. You'll get it sorted Mike i'm sure.
Indeed Antony it is the install plastic which is the problem - see my next video
The gaps so big it makes the guide look like it's part of the seal!:)
'Bugga"! Feelin it from here mate.
Sods laws strikes at the wrong time my friend 👍👍
At least it’s not back in the 110 and still on the stand. What make was the seal so we can all avoid buying them
That's why I always test them first on the stand!
There's no way on this Earth you were as 'civil' as that with the seal when you found that out.....if that'd been me it would've been launched over the neighbours fence...lol. Either way.....it'll all come good in the end.....of that we are all sure.
Great vids Mike....👍
You can get new types of crank seals now that are made from PTFE they use a wider flat sealing area and don't cause a groove i used one on a Peugeot 405 hdi with 140 k miles and its working great! They come with a plastic insert tool so you don't damage the PTFE.
Dam n blast squadron leader. Bother ... and i agree ya need a shave ..another day or so you.ll be swing into the shop on a vine in a furr lap lap ..lookin like the wild man from Borneo.. 😎😁
Tis now sorted with a special tool!
That smoke machine has earnt its money today. I wonder how many other garages use them, not enough would be my guess.
Hey Mike, once had a seal like that on an old car and I managed to take the endless spring out of the seal and make it shorter so there was more tension on the lip seal, worked for a while but did start leaking not long after. !!
No springs in these modern seals!
Bugger 👍👍
Blue packet seal? You’re generally better off sticking the bag they came in to the engine with RTV and cutting a hole to act as a seal than using the part they provide. Same with their gaskets, which are far too thick and soft (at least the pack that I had), and you’ve shown us a few times not to use their “copper” or “aluminium” washers. With the amount of defective parts they continue to sell, unchanged for thirty years, often on safety critical systems, Trading Standards should have shut them down and taken sanctions against their managers years ago.
Thank God I run a land Cruiser now ,I couldn't put up with all this any more , 50yrs in the trade ,now retired ,this is the last thing I want .
Just a thought Mike. What if you placed the seal with its lips facing upwards in a flat container. Pour some boiling water into the middle of the seal. MAYBE! when the rubber gets warm/hot the spring that goes round the seal will start to pull the lips into the middle and make it a tighter fit.
See my next video - now sorted!
Mike i feel for you lucky you have that smoke machine!
I think the Chinese give you the guide so you can put that on and keep it on to make up for the gap in the poorly made cover - LOL
Could be worse. Could be pissing out oil after you boxed it all up.
That's why I check them! Lesson learned a long time ago!
Just happened to me. Bloody oiled up the ptfe seal didn’t I like a sausage. Lesson learnt and now waiting for a rubber seal
Pay the extra Mike get the Turners rear main seal worth it, peace of mind and the head gasket if not purchased already there shipping was quick prior to covid. Give them a call sure they could help ya out
I have already drilled and tapped the block so the holes will be out of line
I think the MWM seal holes might be a little more inwards compared to the seal you drilled, so could get lucky www.turnerengineering.co.uk/Mobile/luf100430-crankshaft-rear-oil-seal-c2x20634757
Impossible now. Mike's holes are 77mm center to center and OEM HS2.8 are 68.5mm center to center. You would have to change the cap now and needs to strip engine again and send it to a machinist. So now he has to stay with the 300tdi OEM with or without the holes mod.
I'll make it work! But next time the MWM seal is for me!
Time to pay a visit to Mr. Jamesons....
I hear him knocking - anyway found a solution and after a quick trip to the machine shop, JP knocked me up a better tool!
@@BritannicaRestorations GM-V6 conversions look better every day, huh?
Hey mike- me again, just fired up my 200 tdi in 93’ D90, all sorts of new goodies including new dowty style rear main seal possibly leaking, few drips of oil out of the bell housing, after 1/2 mile drive and 20 minute warm up checking fluids etc. does the new seal weep a bit? Or am I ordering a new seal and clutch..
If it is the 'Teflon' type seal and not the rubber one, I hope you didn't oil the crank before installing - they need to be installed dry, or they will leak. Only the rubber seal needs the crank oiling
What a pain in the arse. What make was that crank seal? Name and shame. They should send you out a few proper ones foc, asap. Ttfn.
It was Britpart supplied and marked OEM and made in the UK - form a comment just in it seems I am not alone and another 300Tdi did the same = could be a faulty batch
As for replacement I am going for a Victor Reinz
@@BritannicaRestorations can you put a link for the Victor Reinz one as I cannot find anywhere, Thanks
Bearmach sell them
bearmach.com/rear-crankshaft-oil-seal-suitable-for-300tdi-vehicles-err6818m
@@BritannicaRestorations thank you.
Surprised you didn’t notice the insert being loose before fitting? Or was the insert oversize?🤔
It was tight when new - But I have a solution and will do a video tomorrow
Can you get a seal from a bearing company and change it?
Nope
Hi mike.could you please help.is there any chance of letting me know the o/d of the crankshaft on the rear of block.
Disco1 300tdi.got a bit of a problem.
Many thanks.
Where the oil seal run?
Thats hopeless mate, so annoying
Bugger!!!
There were stronger words than that used!
Are car parts like food labelling where if you box the item in uk you can state made in uk even if not?
It seems to be that way now
Yes. It’s a disgrace, and fraudulent in nature and intent, if not in the letter of the law.
Absolutely gutted for you Mike. You just wouldn't think to check that the seal was so bad. Put it on and nip up the bolts. Job done. You wouldn't want to wriggle it around in case you caused damage to it.
So bloody annoying after the great modification.
Unfortunately that mod will invalidate any warranty so you can't even get your money back.
A bit of a bad mouthing threat might get them to send you a free one out.
Gutted...
Getting a Victor Reinz from Bearmach - I should be able to pick up my tapped holes
Just goes to show why I smoke test engines before fitting!
Bugger...
with knobs on!
Hey mike i heard turners do a good rear seal. Maybe its the 2.8 version..?
The only one to use unless you like pulling your box of several days in a row😜
What make is that seal?? What a nightmare
There was no manufactures name - but OEM, made in the UK
@@BritannicaRestorations Seems to be a dud batch of seals to me. Have you gone somewhere else for a different brand?
Frustrating! More so when it’s nowt to do with you and getting a hold of parts quickly is a problem. Time to sit down with a large glass of Jamieson’s finest!!
Indeed = everything on this motor was picked to be OEM or better. The paper gaskets were Britpart as I like them ( but not the seals)
This was an OEM, made in UK seal
@@BritannicaRestorations Rubbish quality control I reckon.
It's a numbers game - bang as many out as cheap as you can and if one is defective they just give you another - maybe from a different batch
What make was the seal..
Box stated OEM made in UK - no makers name
@@BritannicaRestorations Mike it is quite obvious it isn't oem ,bloody disgrace , as one other guy said buy Turners.
The thing is when I bought these OEM seals before, they were good, so when you get a decent part you tend to stick with them
No “make” as such, but it must be Britpart to be that bad. Their seals are an oxymoron - they all leak from new.
I use a mwm international 2.8 seal from turner engineering after i fitted a stick one and it pee'd out everywhere and had to pull the boxes off again her. Most stock seals are junk clones and all leak.
The 2.8 is designed to be gasket free and to line up with the correct polished surface with the lip. Says that you should use rtv silicon and leave to cure for 24 hours. It also has an extra dust seal.
I used screwed in studds to line up the seal squarely and pushed it on.
Worked a treat. Don't bother with any other seal, quality of them is to hit and miss.
www.turnerengineering.co.uk/Mobile/luf100430-crankshaft-rear-oil-seal-c2x20634757
See my next video - the cure time also allows the seal to settle
Ffs....an elastic band would fit better Mike....aftermarket parts will always be a minefield, even when they are claimed to be OEM..
Sorted - see next video !
@@BritannicaRestorations just finished watching it 👍
so you made a cracking job with 💩 parts supplied.
seals are a complete rip off, bit like bearings, as a design engineer for westlands in a past life, you just look up in the seal manufacturers brochure and specify from that, the seals are usually standard the machining is too fit the seal tolerance fit, impossible too get wrong unless you are landrover! ;0)
Been doing Tdi for donkeys years and used cheap seals and OEM seals - never seen one this bad right out of the box - This was OEM, made in the UK
@@_Rich_. I agree, I'd like to see a box with Land Rover on it and see if the seal bares any resemblance to the loose one.
Just checked the parts portal and a Genuine seal is made in India......
@@BritannicaRestorations Probably better than it being made in Dong Shit Province.
@@BritannicaRestorations Bugger...
I hope that the Chinese manufacturer will send the spare parts directly from China to the destination next year. Will be much cheaper.