300Tdi rebuild. Modifying the crank seal to stop warping Pt10
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
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Always remember my old metalwork teacher's saying if your tap wasn't straight, he'd say "that looks like a Liverpool docker on a Saturday afternoon" 😏
Lol!
can't believe Land Rover didn't do this from the start to be honest! great mod!
Hey Mike did the same thing on my recent 300tdi build using 6mm Allen Key bolts, a turners rear seal and gasket no rtv sealant.
I tapped the rear main bearing cap prior to the tear down using the old seal as a template the same as you to the get the holes correct.
So far 5000k no drip but time will tell
If it wasn't for the turners rear seal already having holes, wouldn't of even thought about it. The 2.8 tvg had lots of good simple mods that being one of them.
After watching all your videos, I would like to thank you for making me Liverpool's top armchair mechanic.
Glad you like them!
Perfect Mike... Simple solution to a basic design flaw.
Great job.
Glad you like it!
Improving Land Rovers one at a time mate.... Bloody excellent job 👍👍
Glad you like it
Mike the original 2 extra bolts are M6x1 20mm long on the original 2.8 seal case that's 10mm thick. In this case I guess you would use shorter ones. Anyways good job!
It leaked! However as you will see in the next video it was nothing to do with modifying the seal, but the seal itself was way out of spec!
@@BritannicaRestorations sent you an email. Check your spam just in case..
Hi Mike, glad you did this today as I'm at that stage in my 300 build so next step would be do the same like you just did. Cannot thank you enough for all these great tips. Cheers from MALTA.
Glad I could help
Mike, try this. I made a casing of the simmering out of steel sheet, a hole of 114mm, I used a corteco 20026414B seal, I think that the casing will only survive the engine until it is replaced. the steel housing does not bend. Regards 🇨🇦🇵🇱
What an excellent idea! What was the thickness of the steel?
@@BritannicaRestorations blacha miała grubość 13mm pod uszczelnienie 99x114x11 reszta kopia z aluminiowej obudowy porozmawiaj ze swoim tokarzem .może będzie film i opatentuj ten pomysł 😃
Mam dostęp do warsztatu z urządzeniami do cięcia laserowego w Montrealu - bardzo dokładnie, tanio i szybko!
Myślę, że mogę sprawić sobie kilka!
Just started doing my disco this way and I have some genuine landrover t seals to go in ,I am doing the job with engine in the landrover, great video Mike
When drilling the cap in the original 2.8 place you could hit the return oil vein from the cap bearing so always do it before install to make sure you can clean the cap very well before install. I usually drill no more tan 15mm deep. You just need 10mm thread on the cap. 10 in the cap + 10 thichkness from the rear seal you have the 20mm long Allen head bolt.
Thanks for the info!
I always clear compacted swarf from the bottom after tapping. Using the tapping size drill just a couple of turns with your fingers will do it then blow it out. But cast always crumbles to dust so cast usually doesn't need it. Not criticising Mike. Love your posts.
The little ones are torqued between 14 and 17Nm according to the HS2.8 workshop manual. And those 2 go "Loctited" also according to the manual (Dri Loc 215) in case you drill through the oil vein. There is no oil pressure down there but just in case.
Completely agree re the kits. I tend to buy individual ones now with a specific drill bit that I keep with them. Not cheap but worth it.
Hi!! Mike. After watching your videos over the last few years, I have come to the conclusion that the less ALUMINIUM that is used on an engine the better. Take the cylinder heads, nothing but trouble with warping or burning out. Coolant related parts such as pumps, housings, Ect. If these parts had been made out of cast iron my life would have been a lot easier, OK! iron gets rusty, but it dos'nt dissolve like a sugar lump in water, and if you have to use an hammer on it you can within reason. I just wish someone would make a 200-300Tdi head out of steel, even a backstreet Indian one would be be stronger than the best ALUMINIUM is. Making Landrovers better = full time job Mike, they cant get them right from coming out of the factory. Many thanks, Yorkshire Rob.
Personally I think the soft gasket and quite a high fastener torque could be the problem (crushing the gasket around the fastener holes), the next one I do I will put sealant on the gasket and just nip down with loctite on the threads.
Great job. 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Yer getting good mileage out of that cheap tin of blue paint Mike...
Very nice solution.
The only problem with this engine will be, can it be classified as a 300tdi if it doesn't leak oil?
Harvey Smith .Think you mean can it be classed as a land rover if it doesn't leak oil .Same can be said of the older british motor bikes , Japan was most likely the first to produce bikes that didn't.
I'm a Welshman not a Yorkshireman .... but I do like a tap or die to say "Made in Sheffield" on them.
Those were made in the USA and not cheap!
Look for Presto. They are made in Sheffield
@@BritannicaRestorations Apologies, I was trying to be pro Yorkshire...
Proper job!!
I'm using my crystal ball to look 10 years into the future...
The oil seal is worn out and leaking, somebody takes this oil seal off, sees the two extra holes in it, decides to replicate the holes in the replacement seal, places the new seal back-to-back with the old one, drills the extra holes.... and then curses you when they discover that the extra holes weren't in *exactly* symmetrical positions. :-P
+EDIT+
If you're gonna do this regularly, it might be worth making a paper template, figuring out the positions of the holes precisely and then punching the holes into a gasket and hanging it on a nail in your workshop so it can become the "datum" for all future mod's.
Well, did a smoke test this morning and the seal leaked ( video soon) but it was nothing to do with the modification as you will see - OEM seal, made in the UK, straight out of the box.
Similar thought here, poor guy who has to next replace the seal. 🤷♂️
If it was me replacing the seal I would just use the gasket as a template.
There's something thats really disturbing me and its turned my world upside down. I did a mechanical apprenticeship and was told, that it will always be, that when you fit an oil seal, that you will be met with great fire and vengeance, if you dont first oil the shaft and the seal lip, then stuff the recess of the seal with grease before fitting. Now you tell me that isnt always true? What has happened in the last 30 years that this is no longer necessary? I did my td5 last may and the seal is pretty much the same as that that you have shown. I threw engine rebuild lube all over it and fitted it as i was taught. I didn't bother with any landrover manuals, well you know what they say about instructions, they are only for people who don't know what they are doing 😀
Can you share with us the reasoning for no lube as is keeping me awake at night
Paul - the seal is coated with Teflon - that is all it needs - if you put oil on the seal it can lead to seal failure as it cannot bed down
Lost art of true engineering!
Let's see the kids of tomorrow coming up with K.I.S.S. principal.
Land rover engineers must be turning in their graves at the over complication of the internal combustion engine.
Another great tip from the master.👍👍👍👍
Hello Mike,
I have followed with great interest your videos concerning the 300Tdi engine overhaul. I particularly noticed this video where you illustrate the problem of the deformation of the aluminium bench oil seal support and the consequent misalignment of the oil seal and hence the oil leak. At the moment I too am overhauling the engine of my Discovery I with 300Tdi engine, and checking the deformation of the aluminium support, I noticed a 0.15 mm wagging in the central part, precisely the one from which the oil leak occurs . I will proceed with the modification you suggested, making the seat for two small M5 bolts with hexagon socket, using the old support as a template. In the video part where you mount the new modified support, it is not clear if you have put silicone between the cast iron block and the gasket and between the gasket and the aluminium support, can you clarify this point? Thanks for your very informative videos. Bye, see you soon.
Lol mike get yourself some transfer punches
Getting your moneys worth out of that blue paint Mike 😂
It was cheap, but that’s because it’s “Britpart blue”.
Nick Boylen
That means it will peel off again in two weeks 😂
Great job. 👍
Thank you! Cheers!