These two videos were a great help for a novice Thank you. It was a journey with a few set backs ( outside lock ring holes were too small for the pliers I bought, end bolt was rusted so the head distorted too much for the socket to fit and I destroyed it, and my new 3" bearing puller was too short to reach one bearing), but the next one will be easier!
Is there a resource that will tell you the replacement bearings without having to take the unit apart? I'm worried if I take it apart, I might not have my pool running for a few weeks before I get the parts and repair it. My pump is the Hayward W3SP2303VSP MaxFlo VS Variable-Speed Pool Pump. Maybe there is a resource that identifies the part so I can go ahead and order it?
That looks like the model of the whole pump, but you'll need the exact model etc of the MOTOR. Then google those motor numbers with "parts list" and you might find the exploded view showing the bearing p/n.
Thank you for this video, it made changing the bearings on our pump easy. In case anyone is wondering a 4 inch bearing puller is just big enough to use for this and is usually half the price of a 6 inch one.
@@kalenmiller5787 what auto parts store let you borrow a bearing puller? When I asked at AutoZone, the clerk looked at me as if I had apples for eyeballs and a butt hole for a mouth.
This is an excellent presentation and extremely clear and useful. Kudos to the producer! I'm going on my 3rd motor, decided to see if the bearing replacement approach makes sense instead of new motor. Based on this wonderful and clear presentation, I'm going to give the bearing replacement a try and see what happens! Excellent job in every single regard- clear, good camera angles to show what needs to be done, and lots of helpful hints. Thanks so much!
@@larry-of2pk It didn't!! I had a health issue and while I was in recovery, my wife had our normal pool products supplier come out and replace the motor. I still have my back-up spare that needs the bearings replaced and will attempt it (both so I have a 100% good back-up) and also for the fun / satisfaction of getting that job done. She didn't like the noise, hence the professionals when I was on down-time. The interesting thing is they replaced with a different motor than my existing Century product, so not sure I can direct-replace anymore (if they changed any portions of the pump housing, etc.) I'll keep you posted on how things turn out!
@@charlesdevers8089 I have the Hayward Super Pump and I'm currently at the noise phase of this problem myself. I don't recall it being as loud as it is now. Which pump did you end up with?
@@larry-of2pk I'm not at home, but when I return, I will get the info from the plate and let you know. I did notice that the new pump is smaller in diameter, is rated 1.25 HP and seems longer than the Century pump. Pinch a Penny in Port Orange, FL installed it. I was a "bystander" to the work and only found out the pump was changed out when I was able to return to my home.
Good video. I recomend using a mallet and not a metal hammer when banging on metal. A pipe is also not ideal as a press would help maintain perpendicularly and prevent shaft gauling.
Great video!... I am currently restoring my seven years old Hayward 1.5 HP Super Pump using the video's contents! I have a couple of questions... I need to buy a Bearing Puller and a set of External Ring Pliers to carry out the next step. Can you please recommend details of sizing and specs for each of these items?
Go to an auto parts store. They’ll lend you a puller and possibly pliers too. Iirc they make 4” and 6” pullers. Likely can get away with 4” but this 6” will work in all cases. Harbor Freight will sell a cheap puller if you want to buy. You’ll probably only need a small set of pliers as the rings are not all that large.
Snapped 2 of the tie rods (through bolts) when removing. Can't find a part number for them to order a new set. Hayward 6060. Any idea of part # and where I can order them?
that is great of you are working on a new motor like you are everything is not rusted and your things come off easy what about a motor that has ben outside for years and the parts are old and rusted then it is not worth it to do that just replace the motor because something might break like the thro bolts
lol That wasn't our intention, but I understand why you went that way. Bearings can be tricky if it is your first (or second, or even third) time doing it.
Thanks for the video. This is very detailed step by step explanation. I was just about to disassemble the pump for bearing replacement. This will be my first time to repair this type of pump , warm greetings from Bali
The bearings and seasls have been replaced on my hayward super pump II 115/230 18amp model C48L2N134B3 when I reconnected to hydro to try pump the breaker is kicking off. Only thing different on this assembly is the motor governer off 1hp and v swithch from 1 hp. they appear to be exactly the same? your thoughts?
After removing the motor mounting plate at appx 2 14 it looks like a plastic plate between the motor mounting plate and the front bell. Mine did not have the plastic piece and the whole area is rusted including the locking screw. Is it possible the manufacturer forgot to add that part? I can provide a picture if you need to see what I'm referring to. Great video, a shame everything was thoroughly rusted behind the motor mounting plate on mine.
No, the process shown would only apply to single-and dual-speed induction motors. Variable-speed motors are a different animal, using strong permanent magnets. We do not recommend pool owners try to replace bearings in variable-speed motors. Take them to an electric motor shop.
We only recommend that a qualified motor repair shop replace the bearings in a variable speed motor. The magnets in the motor are very strong and there is the potential for hand injury during reassembly. Damage to the windings is also possible when removing or installing the rotor. Again, this is due to the very strong magnets.
Thanks for the video!! I know that usually when the pump won't turn on and just hums, it's the start capacitor. I've replaced mine twice in the last 5 years. But just this week my pump started running for about 30 seconds, then turn off, then few seconds later turn on, then few seconds later turn off. Never seen it do this, and my searches online can't find anyone else mentioning it either. Is this a rare symptom of another bad capacitor, or is it likely something else that I can replace? Ever heard of this happening, and fixed it? Thanks
This video is a few years old, so I couldn't tell you for sure. But to find the correct bearings for your motor, you need to know its part, catalog, or model number.
Lol good video but this is a brand new pump, there is a lot more swearing and smashing things when you are working on a 10 year old pump that has been sitting in corrosion and is all ceased up. The impellers are often very tight, and the through bolts are extremely corroded and will snap, you have to carefully heat up the end bell with a blow torch to try and free up the threads, being careful not to melt the plastic cooling fan
+Video Québec Very true, that is why we had the microphones muted on this one, just kidding. But you are correct, the older the motor the trickier it become. And that is why most homeowners decide to replace the motor instead of the bearings on 5+ year old units.
The only issue I had on my 20 year old superpump was one of the through bolts rounded off, I used a 1/4” bit extension, and it could have be that it wasn’t fitting tight on the bold head, so when I was reassembling it, I added anti seize to all of the through bolts, and it’s fine.
to de-energize the capacitor use a screwdriver with insulated handle to short it out (touch both the nubs where the angry pixies come out from). if you want to be extra safe wear some winter gloves
Thanks for the video! My Hayward Super Pump just stopped working. We replaced the motor and seal about 6 years ago, so the motor is fairly new. Everything has been fine since. Pool was running normally until a few nights ago when I noticed it wasn't running, even though it should have been based on the timer. After some investigation, I found that I cannot turn the impeller and there seems to be a 1/4-1/2" gap between the impeller and the pump body. It could be my imagination, but it feels like there's a gap there where there wasn't before. Any idea what might have happened?
Lol, replacing the bearings is not for the faint of heart haha. But seriously, it can be tough but if you have the time and the patience it can save you a pretty penny in motor replacement and labor costs.
hmm, wait the bearing with the cooling fan, there is no room to fit that pulley puller, did you leave something out? Sorry my pump does not have a lock washer to remove?
If your motor is badly corroded, this tip will save huge headaches and $$. Look at the video, the picture of the end-plate @3:33. Those 4 small holes near the 4 larger mounting bolt holes are where the 'thru-bolts' are threaded in. Those threads are probably seized from the salt/rust. These bolts love to snap off inside the endplate when you're trying to remove them. New endplate = $80.00-$90.00 🤬😕 So, orient the motor vertically. Get some 'Kroil', or another good rusted-bolt/nut loosener and squirt it a LITTLE in those holes and leave in alone to soak in overnight. Wd40 might work if left in there for a few days to work it's way in. And those bolt heads seem like 1/4", but use a 6mm socket for a good snug fit.
I wanted to do this since my pool pump is making a screeching noise, but I don't have these tools and definitely not the patience to complete all the steps. I'll get someone to do it, or replace the motor
I wouldn't say it is dangerous, but I would say it is an issue that needs addressing sooner than later. Bad bearings don't fix themselves, and they are usually a sign of a bad shaft seal. A bad seal will keep leaking ruining other parts of your motor. - MGS
Musa Absi No it just sounds aweful... if the bearing cease u could burn up the motor... but with bad bearing u are already on the market for a new motor. So run it until ur neighbors strangle u...
If your motor is burning the plastic cooling fan, a new cooling fan is not going to solve the issue. Something within that motor is getting so hot the fan cannot vent the heat properly. You likely need to do some deep troubleshooting to find the source of the overheating. How To Troubleshoot a Pool Pump Motor - Motor Overheated - www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how-to-troubleshoot-a-pool-pump-motor-motor-overheated.aspx
An easy job, was almost there.....but......good luck getting the 4 long bolts out that hold the motor together, guarantee they'll snap no matter how easy you attempt to take them out. First one I attempted snapped, so I bought a new motor.
Rule of a thumb, if your motor is 10-15 years old, you are better off buying a new one because of wear and tear, less noisy, more efficient, 2 speed replacement is a must almost same price as single speed. Variable speed motor is preferable but more or very expensive.
I have a new motor and was going to try this first, but I think I'll save the headache and just install the new motor. Maybe I'll do this after and have a backup, but my pool wasn't getting clean, and I don't have time for more trial and error, or fixes that aren't the problem.
Isn't worth the trouble would be cheaper to buy a new motor in the long run. Unless a owner has nothing better to do than mess with that. This guy will not be replacing bearings for anyone
@@glidersoar They need a few things like a propane torch to get the long bolts out and some new seals as the old ones will be rat shit and will leak if you reinstall them. Yes still cheaper than a new one though.
If your motor is at all corroded, don't even bother. Buy a new motor. The long 8-32 bolts that hold the motor together screw into the aluminum ends and will be seized solid and twist off easily.
Very good idea, I did replaced mine and the noise is still there, ended up buying a 2 speed motor the same price as a single speed, very quiet and almost no noise on low rpm.
I have had two relatively new pumps fail on me - both Pentair and Hayward. Enough of these junk. This is why we needed Japanese branded motors in the US.
LOL, just watched parts one and two and I guess I'm buying a new pump. How on Earth can they make this so complicated? My pump is only 3 years old. What a joke.
By the time the bearings go bad on a pool pump motor the motor housing will be completely rusted and should immediately be thrown in the garbage and purchase a new motor unless it is an indoor pump still cheaper to trash it
These two videos were a great help for a novice Thank you. It was a journey with a few set backs ( outside lock ring holes were too small for the pliers I bought, end bolt was rusted so the head distorted too much for the socket to fit and I destroyed it, and my new 3" bearing puller was too short to reach one bearing), but the next one will be easier!
Is there a resource that will tell you the replacement bearings without having to take the unit apart? I'm worried if I take it apart, I might not have my pool running for a few weeks before I get the parts and repair it. My pump is the Hayward W3SP2303VSP MaxFlo VS Variable-Speed Pool Pump. Maybe there is a resource that identifies the part so I can go ahead and order it?
That looks like the model of the whole pump, but you'll need the exact model etc of the MOTOR. Then google those motor numbers with "parts list" and you might find the exploded view showing the bearing p/n.
Thank you for this video, it made changing the bearings on our pump easy. In case anyone is wondering a 4 inch bearing puller is just big enough to use for this and is usually half the price of a 6 inch one.
Or borrow one for free from an auto parts store.
@@kalenmiller5787 what auto parts store let you borrow a bearing puller? When I asked at AutoZone, the clerk looked at me as if I had apples for eyeballs and a butt hole for a mouth.
Thanks for sharing - I was trying to find the answer to this question after watching.
This is an excellent presentation and extremely clear and useful. Kudos to the producer! I'm going on my 3rd motor, decided to see if the bearing replacement approach makes sense instead of new motor. Based on this wonderful and clear presentation, I'm going to give the bearing replacement a try and see what happens! Excellent job in every single regard- clear, good camera angles to show what needs to be done, and lots of helpful hints. Thanks so much!
Glad it was helpful!
How'd it go?
@@larry-of2pk It didn't!! I had a health issue and while I was in recovery, my wife had our normal pool products supplier come out and replace the motor. I still have my back-up spare that needs the bearings replaced and will attempt it (both so I have a 100% good back-up) and also for the fun / satisfaction of getting that job done. She didn't like the noise, hence the professionals when I was on down-time. The interesting thing is they replaced with a different motor than my existing Century product, so not sure I can direct-replace anymore (if they changed any portions of the pump housing, etc.) I'll keep you posted on how things turn out!
@@charlesdevers8089 I have the Hayward Super Pump and I'm currently at the noise phase of this problem myself. I don't recall it being as loud as it is now. Which pump did you end up with?
@@larry-of2pk I'm not at home, but when I return, I will get the info from the plate and let you know. I did notice that the new pump is smaller in diameter, is rated 1.25 HP and seems longer than the Century pump. Pinch a Penny in Port Orange, FL installed it. I was a "bystander" to the work and only found out the pump was changed out when I was able to return to my home.
It always saves us time if u mention what size wrench ur using !!!
Understood. We'll make sure to do that going forward. Thank you for the tip.
Good video. I recomend using a mallet and not a metal hammer when banging on metal. A pipe is also not ideal as a press would help maintain perpendicularly and prevent shaft gauling.
i agree he looked like a butcher working on a motor.
Great video!... I am currently restoring my seven years old Hayward 1.5 HP Super Pump using the video's contents! I have a couple of questions... I need to buy a Bearing Puller and a set of External Ring Pliers to carry out the next step. Can you please recommend details of sizing and specs for each of these items?
Go to an auto parts store. They’ll lend you a puller and possibly pliers too. Iirc they make 4” and 6” pullers. Likely can get away with 4” but this 6” will work in all cases. Harbor Freight will sell a cheap puller if you want to buy. You’ll probably only need a small set of pliers as the rings are not all that large.
Great video, easy to follow. Is there a way to find out the exact bearing for my model, without disassemble the pump?
We might be able to look up the correct motor bearings. What is the catalog or part number of your motor?
Snapped 2 of the tie rods (through bolts) when removing. Can't find a part number for them to order a new set. Hayward 6060. Any idea of part # and where I can order them?
that is great of you are working on a new motor like you are everything is not rusted and your things come off easy what about a motor that has ben outside for years and the parts are old and rusted then it is not worth it to do that just replace the motor because something might break like the thro bolts
I am so glad I found this video. I totally made the right decision to just buy a new pump.
lol That wasn't our intention, but I understand why you went that way. Bearings can be tricky if it is your first (or second, or even third) time doing it.
An exemplary instructional video! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
What brand bearing puller did you use in this video ?
Thanks for the video. This is very detailed step by step explanation. I was just about to disassemble the pump for bearing replacement. This will be my first time to repair this type of pump , warm greetings from Bali
Tnk'u men so much that help's me a lot i work in a hotel and i need to this videos. Good video... Saludos from México
Finally on how to do this in details !!! Thank you so much.
You're welcome, Ephraim. Thank you for the feedback!
The bearings and seasls have been replaced on my hayward super pump II 115/230 18amp model C48L2N134B3 when I reconnected to hydro to try pump the breaker is kicking off. Only thing different on this assembly is the motor governer off 1hp and v swithch from 1 hp. they appear to be exactly the same? your thoughts?
He didn't reply because you now have an electrical short circuit.
After removing the motor mounting plate at appx 2 14 it looks like a plastic plate between the motor mounting plate and the front bell. Mine did not have the plastic piece and the whole area is rusted including the locking screw. Is it possible the manufacturer forgot to add that part? I can provide a picture if you need to see what I'm referring to. Great video, a shame everything was thoroughly rusted behind the motor mounting plate on mine.
My Hayward pump motor kicks itself off when I try to back flush or use the pool cleaner. Could this be bearing issues
Is this a variable speed pump? Is the process the same for a variable speed?
No, the process shown would only apply to single-and dual-speed induction motors. Variable-speed motors are a different animal, using strong permanent magnets. We do not recommend pool owners try to replace bearings in variable-speed motors. Take them to an electric motor shop.
Is changing the bearings on a variable speed motor much different or more difficult?
We only recommend that a qualified motor repair shop replace the bearings in a variable speed motor. The magnets in the motor are very strong and there is the potential for hand injury during reassembly. Damage to the windings is also possible when removing or installing the rotor. Again, this is due to the very strong magnets.
Thanks for the video!! I know that usually when the pump won't turn on and just hums, it's the start capacitor. I've replaced mine twice in the last 5 years. But just this week my pump started running for about 30 seconds, then turn off, then few seconds later turn on, then few seconds later turn off. Never seen it do this, and my searches online can't find anyone else mentioning it either. Is this a rare symptom of another bad capacitor, or is it likely something else that I can replace? Ever heard of this happening, and fixed it? Thanks
This happens when the motor overheats.
best thing i learned is
take the motor to the shop repair
oe buy a new one thnx
Same!
....WHAT IS THE PART NAME OF THE V-SHAPED SWITCH THAT PROVIDES POWER TO THE CAPACITOR?
What bearings did you use for that motor
This video is a few years old, so I couldn't tell you for sure. But to find the correct bearings for your motor, you need to know its part, catalog, or model number.
Lol good video but this is a brand new pump, there is a lot more swearing and smashing things when you are working on a 10 year old pump that has been sitting in corrosion and is all ceased up. The impellers are often very tight, and the through bolts are extremely corroded and will snap, you have to carefully heat up the end bell with a blow torch to try and free up the threads, being careful not to melt the plastic cooling fan
+Video Québec Very true, that is why we had the microphones muted on this one, just kidding.
But you are correct, the older the motor the trickier it become. And that is why most homeowners decide to replace the motor instead of the bearings on 5+ year old units.
Videos from Québec ......I'll by a new pump and save time. My pump is 12 years old.
@@wolfgreen162 ill save 400 dollars. It took me almost a whoolllle hour.
Pro tip.. As long as you can get the plastic off first..dont be afraid to throw some heat on that bitch
The only issue I had on my 20 year old superpump was one of the through bolts rounded off, I used a 1/4” bit extension, and it could have be that it wasn’t fitting tight on the bold head, so when I was reassembling it, I added anti seize to all of the through bolts, and it’s fine.
If you make a video like this for a whisperflow XF, i would be eternally grateful. By the way, we are constantly buying parts from your website 👍
We appreciate your business and we'll keep your Whisperflo XF in mind on our next round of videos.
That motor shaft is awfully rusted for a brand new motor. You should also warn people how to de-energize the capacitor if they are going to touch it.
That step was glossed over in this guide. When we complete a refined version, we will be sure to add it in.
@@Inyopools hi was this safety info added somewhere? thanks.
to de-energize the capacitor use a screwdriver with insulated handle to short it out (touch both the nubs where the angry pixies come out from). if you want to be extra safe wear some winter gloves
Thanks for the video! My Hayward Super Pump just stopped working. We replaced the motor and seal about 6 years ago, so the motor is fairly new. Everything has been fine since. Pool was running normally until a few nights ago when I noticed it wasn't running, even though it should have been based on the timer. After some investigation, I found that I cannot turn the impeller and there seems to be a 1/4-1/2" gap between the impeller and the pump body. It could be my imagination, but it feels like there's a gap there where there wasn't before.
Any idea what might have happened?
Good information
Thanks
Thanks for the video. I now realize I will take the motor in to a professional. LOL
Lol, replacing the bearings is not for the faint of heart haha. But seriously, it can be tough but if you have the time and the patience it can save you a pretty penny in motor replacement and labor costs.
Thats some funny shit
The bearings are only a couple of bucks, you can borrow a bearing puller from an auto parts store, nothing to it.
Thanks for the comment. I will take it to professionals based solely on your comment.
Agreed, after replacing bearings, I’ll work on the ole flux capacitor. 😂
hmm, wait the bearing with the cooling fan, there is no room to fit that pulley puller, did you leave something out? Sorry my pump does not have a lock washer to remove?
If your motor is badly corroded, this tip will save huge headaches and $$.
Look at the video, the picture of the end-plate @3:33. Those 4 small holes near the 4 larger mounting bolt holes are where the 'thru-bolts' are threaded in. Those threads are probably seized from the salt/rust.
These bolts love to snap off inside the endplate when you're trying to remove them. New endplate = $80.00-$90.00 🤬😕
So, orient the motor vertically. Get some 'Kroil', or another good rusted-bolt/nut loosener and squirt it a LITTLE in those holes and leave in alone to soak in overnight. Wd40 might work if left in there for a few days to work it's way in. And those bolt heads seem like 1/4", but use a 6mm socket for a good snug fit.
Is like to see you do this on a 10 year old pump. Where the body bolts are frozen in place
Busted! I know it wouldn't be this easy.
I wanted to do this since my pool pump is making a screeching noise, but I don't have these tools and definitely not the patience to complete all the steps.
I'll get someone to do it, or replace the motor
is it dangerous to keep my pump running with bad bearings ?
I wouldn't say it is dangerous, but I would say it is an issue that needs addressing sooner than later. Bad bearings don't fix themselves, and they are usually a sign of a bad shaft seal. A bad seal will keep leaking ruining other parts of your motor. - MGS
Musa Absi
No it just sounds aweful... if the bearing cease u could burn up the motor... but with bad bearing u are already on the market for a new motor. So run it until ur neighbors strangle u...
So what happens when those 4 tiny bolt snap off in a ten year old pump ?
That was great. It just told me to buy a new pool pump. Lol. I'll try and rebuild it while the other is running.
But I decided to check under the back cover, just in case. Some silly canister was rubbing on the spinny thingy
Good luck getting the thru bolts out- almost always break
10 out of ten i will watch this when I'm doing it.
How to replace the plastic fan. I think the smell that comes from my motor that runs freely, comes from the plastic of the fan burning
If your motor is burning the plastic cooling fan, a new cooling fan is not going to solve the issue. Something within that motor is getting so hot the fan cannot vent the heat properly. You likely need to do some deep troubleshooting to find the source of the overheating.
How To Troubleshoot a Pool Pump Motor - Motor Overheated - www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how-to-troubleshoot-a-pool-pump-motor-motor-overheated.aspx
Great video, I’m going to buy a new motor.
Glad it helped. Thank you for the feedback.
Couldn't possibly do this job if I had a million years. 😆
Exactly, confirmed to me that I should just buy a new pump.
You can do it
Super good
An easy job, was almost there.....but......good luck getting the 4 long bolts out that hold the motor together, guarantee they'll snap no matter how easy you attempt to take them out. First one I attempted snapped, so I bought a new motor.
4:05 Classic design of a squirrel cage induction motor.
Rule of a thumb, if your motor is 10-15 years old, you are better off buying a new one because of wear and tear, less noisy, more efficient, 2 speed replacement is a must almost same price as single speed. Variable speed motor is preferable but more or very expensive.
A 1/4 " nut driver will make it s lot easier then using a ratchet to remove 1/4" screws.
I did this a few years ago and watching it back now I'm wondering what I was thinking haha. It wasn't easy.
I have a new motor and was going to try this first, but I think I'll save the headache and just install the new motor. Maybe I'll do this after and have a backup, but my pool wasn't getting clean, and I don't have time for more trial and error, or fixes that aren't the problem.
Isn't worth the trouble would be cheaper to buy a new motor in the long run. Unless a owner has nothing better to do than mess with that. This guy will not be replacing bearings for anyone
If the bearings are a couple of bucks, and you can borrow a bearing puller for free, how is it cheaper to buy a new motor?
@@glidersoar They need a few things like a propane torch to get the long bolts out and some new seals as the old ones will be rat shit and will leak if you reinstall them. Yes still cheaper than a new one though.
inyo pools suuuuuuuuuuuuuuupppurrrrrrr
like 576
Get yourself a spring hook, better than needle nose.
It is always so easy to remove the impeller on a new motor but almost impossible to get it off an old pump.
Use a WhisperFlo pump that's a lot of work
If your motor is at all corroded, don't even bother. Buy a new motor. The long 8-32 bolts that hold the motor together screw into the aluminum ends and will be seized solid and twist off easily.
Use propane. The aluminium will expand more than steel as it has a lower melting point.
Great video! Unfortunately way too much for me to do. I'm buying a new motor..roflmao
Very good idea, I did replaced mine and the noise is still there, ended up buying a 2 speed motor the same price as a single speed, very quiet and almost no noise on low rpm.
Good video but the constant blurring is brutal
Sorry about that.
I have had two relatively new pumps fail on me - both Pentair and Hayward. Enough of these junk. This is why we needed Japanese branded motors in the US.
LOL, just watched parts one and two and I guess I'm buying a new pump. How on Earth can they make this so complicated? My pump is only 3 years old. What a joke.
By the time the bearings go bad on a pool pump motor the motor housing will be completely rusted and should immediately be thrown in the garbage and purchase a new motor unless it is an indoor pump still cheaper to trash it
yeah ok, lmao
Jesus
lmao, yeah right try, doin this with one thats all rusted , what a joke
wow what a massive pain in the ass
I know! Lol I thought the same thing! Same the headaches and buy a new pump
dont look to DIY to me
IE: buy a new fucking motor.