Good update 👍 I was surprised at the loose windings. I don't think they would add a bonding agent like epoxy as you could not add it in a consistent manner to keep the wheel balanced and you could not rewind it after if needed. But that doesn't excuse the loose wiring job😞. Cheers
@@patrickmckowen2999 so the center stater dose not spin so it don’t need to be balanced. You should not need to rewind it if it’s dipped in a varnish dip I’m going to dip it myself and do a video on it and update you guys
Thank you very much for this tech teardown. I am thinking about buying a V14 so this is highly relevant. I agree that omitting the varnish dip of the windings is highly undesirable. Aside from the severe road vibrations, each individual wire will be moved around by the rapidly-changing magnetic flux forces, so chafing is IMO almost certain to occur. If it is not too late, perhaps you could have a close look for us at the coil slots and see if each coil slot was fitted with a semi-flexible dielectric insulating slot liner to protect the magnet wires from the sharp edges of the stamped stator laminations, and tell us how effective you think the slot liners are, i.e. are there places such as inside corners of each slot or at the little steel ears at the slot openings on the outside diameter of the stator (the wheel-facing surface) where the wires are not fully protected by the liners. If you decide to varnish-impregnate your stator coils, what type of varnish would you use? Of course there are special electrical varnishes but they might be difficult and costly to source in small quantities, unless you take the stator to a rewind shop that does varnish impregnating. If you do it yourself, might marine spar varnish be suitable? I understand that it stays somewhat flexible after drying, which might be an advantage. The varnish needs to be sufficiently-fluid to soak into all of the interstices. And then there is the drying time to plan for. Thanks again for this video and I will watch for part 2.
@@haroldsmith45302 I did do a part 2 of this and ended up just coating the windings in an epoxy specifically for electrical windings there is a plastic insert that does protect the windings on the stater the windings are also wound very tight so I don’t think there would be and movement on the coils themselves but it’s more the top half that joins each coil is more the issue I did do a video on the reassembly of it and how I fixed the dent and the windings The v14 is such a fun wheel one of my favourite wheels I been on the lynx a lot of late but I am getting much better at turning sharp as slow speeds on it
cool video mate and yes them trolly handle catches are also causing suspention clonking you can feel with you foot on one side normaly they are catching the bushings on the bottom of the suspention poles sliders strong wheel tho taking a fall like that mine took one too
@@Karl-ErikRosberg unfortunately no Because the cable goes through it so u need to disconnect it from the controller But its not has bad as u might think to do just take your time and remove the glue from the sensor clip on the controller don’t just rip on plugs The glue is designed to come off with a little persuasion just take your time and don’t damage the plugs. U don’t want a cutout at speed from a bad connection from a damaged plug. Same with the glue where the main power cable goes into the controller box. The glue will come off just work it all off so u can reuse the rubber grommet and make sure you use new glue when u reassemble so it’s water tight!
I always take photos when doing a disassembly of a wheel so you have a reference to help reassembly
@@euc-chasingpavements7332 yeah I do the same especially for the brain lol
I can see a ton of time and effort went into this: respect, and awesome work!
@@KozakFather go can see a engineer or anyone with a press and they will
Be able to fix your rim
Thanks for the support
Cool, I can't wait for your next video. I need to repair my rim and take the motor out. Hope I can learn it from your next video🙏🏼👍🏼
@@Merqeu I’ll try make
It as detailed as possible doing it
This weekend
@AntiOrder-r3m Thank you bro, awesome. I'm a roofer with no technically friends. So you're video will help me a lot.
@ no worries will be doing it today or tomorrow :)
Good update 👍
I was surprised at the loose windings. I don't think they would add a bonding agent like epoxy as you could not add it in a consistent manner to keep the wheel balanced and you could not rewind it after if needed. But that doesn't excuse the loose wiring job😞.
Cheers
@@patrickmckowen2999 so the center stater dose not spin so it don’t need to be balanced. You should not need to rewind it if it’s dipped in a varnish dip
I’m going to dip it myself and do a video on it and update you guys
@@AntiOrderAustralia yes, I had forgotten/missed that, stator=stationary 👍
@@patrickmckowen2999 I have some ideas for some other improvements as well on the wheel so stay tuned
love your vids! I subscribed ! keep up the good work!
@@Vince43euc thanks for the support bro I will
Thank you very much for this tech teardown. I am thinking about buying a V14 so this is highly relevant.
I agree that omitting the varnish dip of the windings is highly undesirable. Aside from the severe road vibrations, each individual wire will be moved around by the rapidly-changing magnetic flux forces, so chafing is IMO almost certain to occur.
If it is not too late, perhaps you could have a close look for us at the coil slots and see if each coil slot was fitted with a semi-flexible dielectric insulating slot liner to protect the magnet wires from the sharp edges of the stamped stator laminations, and tell us how effective you think the slot liners are, i.e. are there places such as inside corners of each slot or at the little steel ears at the slot openings on the outside diameter of the stator (the wheel-facing surface) where the wires are not fully protected by the liners.
If you decide to varnish-impregnate your stator coils, what type of varnish would you use? Of course there are special electrical varnishes but they might be difficult and costly to source in small quantities, unless you take the stator to a rewind shop that does varnish impregnating. If you do it yourself, might marine spar varnish be suitable? I understand that it stays somewhat flexible after drying, which might be an advantage. The varnish needs to be sufficiently-fluid to soak into all of the interstices. And then there is the drying time to plan for.
Thanks again for this video and I will watch for part 2.
@@haroldsmith45302 I did do a part 2 of this and ended up just coating the windings in an epoxy specifically for electrical windings there is a plastic insert that does protect the windings on the stater the windings are also wound very tight so I don’t think there would be and movement on the coils themselves but it’s more the top half that joins each coil is more the issue
I did do a video on the reassembly of it and how I fixed the dent and the windings
The v14 is such a fun wheel one of my favourite wheels
I been on the lynx a lot of late but I am getting much better at turning sharp as slow speeds on it
The brake light is way better with the lens cover busted off anyways. I did it intentionally and it is much brighter now.
@@Loki-rascal interesting mine is now under the seat still can see it but not as good as without it
cool video mate and yes them trolly handle catches are also causing suspention clonking you can feel with you foot on one side normaly they are catching the bushings on the bottom of the suspention poles sliders strong wheel tho taking a fall like that mine took one too
also the back kick stand can damage you battery boxes and batterys if it catches bad desing
Hi, is it possible to change the wire side wheel bearing without disconnecting the wire
@@Karl-ErikRosberg unfortunately no
Because the cable goes through it so u need to disconnect it from the controller
But its not has bad as u might think to do just take your time and remove the glue from the sensor clip on the controller don’t just rip on plugs
The glue is designed to come off with a little persuasion just take your time and don’t damage the plugs.
U don’t want a cutout at speed from a bad connection from a damaged plug.
Same with the glue where the main power cable goes into the controller box.
The glue will come off just work it all off so u can reuse the rubber grommet and make sure you use new glue when u reassemble so it’s water tight!
what seat is that?
@@cog1234 one I got from eBay not sure the name of it
The music ran me off.
@@DelmaRaySmithJr u dident like the music ?
You don't have a volume control? 😂
@@Loki-rascal yeah been a little sloppy with the editing lol sorry about that I’ll improve it on the next ones