You are amazing to watch and get advice from. I have watched you build this shed and I am sure I could do it myself, your information is so good! I so wish when my father was alive that we had internet and videos like yours so he could have learned from individuals like yourself. You are indeed a blessing!
I had a 7’10” wide by 32’ trailer with tin roof. I am insulating and going with a shingle roof. Materials are under $1,000 in inflated 2023 prices but includes everything I needed. This video is a gold mine of information, well taught / shown. Thanks for saving me thousands of dollars helping me do the job, a better job than the expensive, sloppy, disrespectful, hurried tradesmen we have here.
Your detailed videos have saved me from making so many boneheaded mistakes while building a shed from scratch. Others try but end up skimming over the details needed. I can't thank you enough - my shed turned out great.
Watched this through my entire shed roofing project. Thanks a ton for the great detail and instructions. I have shingled many roofs but it had been quite a few years so the refresher was perfect.
Agree with so many other posters!! It is so hard to be this detailed in so short a time: You really have a wonderful teaching skill. I just paid for my roof to be redone- I can't believe the "professionals" maybe had ever roofed before. Thank you very much!!!!
I'm about to use 3-tab shingles to re-shingle a small wishing well roof. Never shingled before. I've watched several videos on it. This video, so far, is the ONLY video I could find that addresses the measuring of the roof, so that you have equal. symmetrical shingle amounts on each side (not a full tab on one edge, and a 1/4" on the other). That fact was bothering me, and no other videos talk about it. They just start off with a full shingle sheet flush with the edge. I'm kinda Obsessive with such details but even This Old House didn't mention it. Well done.
Thank you for making these videos! I have never undertaken a project of this magnitude and have no special carpentry skills or more tools than basic table saw and impact driver. I watched each of your videos MANY times and am almost done with an 8 x 8 chicken coop. THANK YOU!!!
Thanks so much I built my shed from scratch and was wary when it came to the roof but I followed your steps from start to finish and it turned out great, you explain things so well...
Excellent video. It doesn't get any more professional, helpful, and useful than this. I am putting on my first roof tomorrow and now I have no worries or doubts. I was guided on every little step and all of my questions were answered. THANKS!!!
I roof for a living, at first I was skeptical but you clearly know your stuff. I'd do a few things differently but I never even considered wondering direction while installing my caps. Good tip 👌
Also a tip: when adding the last piece to the ridge cap and you Tar the mail heads on that last piece, take some of the loose asphalt from the shingle packaging and sprinkle some on to of the tar, it hides the nail heads
Put tar glue/sealent on the last four ridge cap exposed nail heads, then press loose granular material from the bags the shingles came in onto the soft tar, and abracadabra like a magician - even the tar color disapears!
Excellent,I have started to build a hipped shed roof, and now I am looking if you do a video with shingles on a roof like that, thanks for the detailed instructions.
Thank you so much for your video show me step by step although my English is not good but I still understanding how to do it. Thank you again. I will fix my roof tomorrow.
Did a pretty good job installing the three-tab asphalt fiberglass mat roofing shingle..Good tip about looking for damage on the edge of the bundles and squares..the closed rake and soffit looks pretty nice on this shed..
I had to pop chalk lines myself with no helper. What I did was place the metal guide piece on my mark and then anchored it with a small piece of duct tape. Held perfectly for all chalk lines.
If you put a dab of plastic roof cement over any exposed nail heads, collect some colored granules from the packaging and sprinkle onto the cement. It will camouflage it. I was surprised you didn't use a metal drip cap on the edges. A roofer from South Florida taught me after Hurricane Hugo to apply a wide strip of "bull" or plastic roof cement along all edges so the wind cannot lift them off. That is especially true at those ridge caps that don't have any cement under them. All exposed edges ideally should be bevelled or have a drip kerf cut into them and primed to prevent capillary water damage. Really good video series over all with a good host, well thought out videography and script. Glad to see the editing correcting misspeaking as everyone does it. Water is what destroys buildings so at every step consider how to keep it out.
Hi Hearthman... Some very good points. I just learned a little trick with the granules (thank you). Your other points are valid and should be considered in areas of high winds. For those that live elsewhere those methods would likely be overkill but in areas as you noted, for sure. Keep in mind, it is a shed and cost can just keep going up if you do too much - so if it is not need for most areas we kept it out of the build.
I only seen one thing that I mightp ossibly change. I would likely nail above or in the tar line versus below it to protect the nails, otherwise this is a great roofing and ridge capping video!
Thank you much for these videos. Question regarding nails. If I plan to have the underside of the overhang exposed, should I just use shorter nails to prevent the nails from coming through under the overhang, or is there a different procedure or glue to make sure those first couple of rows of shingles are secure. I was even thinking of using T&G as roof sheathing around the perimeter so it is visible underneath the overhang, and I wouldn't want nails to come through on that section. Thanks much!
That is a good question. Have not dealt with this before. Using shorter nails might work for the first layer, but they may be too short on the second layer and it will be difficult to get just the right length to ensure they do not poke through and still have enough holding strength - especially for the first rows which are most venerable to high winds. I have to be honest, I am not sure how professional roofers would handle this and it can't hurt to ask one or two local roofing contractors how they would do this. That said, if it was my choice, for the best appearance, I would use 3/4" material around the perimeter where it will be seen from underneath. Then strap the remainder with 1x4 strapping. I would then put 1/2" or sheathing over the entire roof. This will provide a substrate of 1 1/4" around the perimeter plus the thickness of the first layer of shingle (roughly just under 1/8" depending on the shingle). Now you can easily use the recommended 1 1/4" long nails without any concern of them penetrating through the underside. But, as noted, it can't hurt to consult a few roofers and see what they recommend. Maybe there is an adhesive that can be used in conjunction with shorter nails on the first rows that would provide the required strength to prevent blow off in high winds.
thank you for explaining everything i am definitely buying my plans from you . just one question what are the wind ratings for the sheds ? i live in Florida and everyone knows we have hurricanes that is why i am asking thanks again
Hi Jim... there is no wind ratings for the shed, however, you may want to chat with a local builder to see if there they have any suggestions. Hurricane anchors are a must but there may be other considerations... and as I am not familiar with the specs for Florida, I cannot advise on this.
If you install drip edging along the base and gable fascia boards, about 1/2" (3/4" or 1" if you'd like) out, you automatically have an edge to use for extending the shigles, instead of using a 1" wide board, and creting more holes in the facia board. drip edge cost about as much as the wood these days, but serves a good purpose, eh!!!
+the eabster Not at this time. But IMO, if i was to redo a roof, I would not go over the existing. I would tear it off and start fresh from the sheathing. In the end, the over all job is better, looks better and will last longer. Ask a "Good" roofer and they will likely agree it is the best way to go. Some roofers will go over existing shingles to save on the cost of tear off but most will not for warranty reasons.
Tear off the old singles leaving them on is the lazy way of roofing You want a good look at your roof surface anyway to see if there is any damage rot etc
1" may sag a little but it is not likely to be enough that anyone will notice. There is a benefit to a little sag as the water will run off the edge and drip off - where as if you have a rigid 1/2" overhang, the water could travel back under the shingle to the fascia board, possibly under the shingle a little (not to likely in most cases, but possible).
When using the spacer board on the front, isn't that screwed into the trim piece that was just put up, making unsightly screw holes? Do you go back and fill those in later after you take the spacer off?
Hi Aelanna... The screw holes when using cedar are very small. And yes, before we finish the final coat of paint we filled the holes with caulking and later painted over them - never to be seen again.
Just wondering if there was a better or more random pattern to apply? You have rows 1, 3, 5 and so on the same break. Is there a better way to do this?
Hi J... When it comes to these type of shingles that is not critical. The main priority is that the row overlaying the prior does not have an open slit above a shingle joint.
I am really not good at that, but I wonder whether some glue would not help with the cap on the very top, just in case the wind changes regular position?
Probably not a good idea, and not really needed. With the amount of nails in this strip and the tension created bending them over the peak, these are the least likely to tear off first. Usually the weak point is at the base of the roof or the gable ends. Also, glue is unlikely to stick well to the shingles.
Boar Hog The reality is that if any roofer spent as long as this doing a shed roof, they would either make no money, or they would have to quote the job with a high enough labour cost that they wouldn't get the job. Many people underestimate amount of work involved in roofing and they think you are overcharging.
pguiver These videos are not about roofers making money, they are about anyone watching them using the info to do a nice job of a shed roof (or any other project). Pro's would not do a lot of things I did. E.g. hand nailing, chalk lines for each course etc but these videos are intended for DIY'ers.
pguiver I depends on how much a guy charges per hour. I know i am in business as well and some guys think they are worth 100 hr and they aren't worth 30
I watch the Pros roof across the street lots of short cuts and in IMHO rushed it. Once done the homeowner wouldn't see or now the difference. I'm pretty sure my roof will outlast that one as we took the care in doing it right not just fast The youngsters ding it certainly were in the 30 buck range
Hi Ty, if you look at homes built several decades ago, there was no such thing as a drip edge. IMO the use of drip edge(cap) today is to compensate for inferior fascia materials that need protection from moisture and rainfall e.g. OSB etc. If you use good quality solid lumber for fascia I think a drip edge is not required - especially for a shed.
Hi Scott... for a shed we felt drip edge was a bit overkill and just an extra expense so we opted not to add it. In our opinion, many houses built in the early to mid 19th century did just fine without drip edges. Taking time to do a proper install is the most important. That said - - Since it is available, I would definitely use it on a larger more permanent investment like a house or garage.
Hi Bill... there are so many types of shingles available I cannot tell you that - but they should show this on the wrapper of the shingles - failing that, check their website as most of these large companies have all that information. Even the pros have to check these specs once in a while and expect that information to be available.
CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME? I am looking for rolls of asphalt roofing material. I saw a sample of what i want. It has a design on the roll of asphalt roofing of fish scale shingles. These are not actually shingles. They are drawn on by the manufacturer.
Chalking lines all over the roof isn't really necessary. As long as you make sure that your first course is straight, then each following course will be straight if you install them all with equal exposure. Either with the gauge on the nail gun (or the gauge on a shingling hatchet if hand nailing) or using the tip of the tab groove as the exposure guide.
pguiver Granted... however, we did the roof this way to make sure that "everyone" regardless of experience would be able to do the roof and achieve good professional looking results. I've seen roofs done by so called pro's without chalk lines and somehow... as you get closer to the ridge the shingles seem to be less straight than the first half of the roof.
Good point, I have seen many roofs done with courses waving all over the place by pros as many of them don't take the time to make sure each shingle is aligned properly even if their first course is straight. Personally I would skip the non-crucial chalk lines but still invest the time in making sure there is equal exposure throughout the roof. I guess I've done it enough that my courses are always perfectly parallel to the ridge when they reach that point.
pguiver Pro's, the good ones, get an eye for these things and will see subtle changes as they work, and those that care may snap a new line to stay straight, others don't. Good roofers would check as they go, but most DIY'ers would not notice these things until done... so I used the techniques shown in the video as I felt this would avoid most issues and a poor roof job.
Nope... this is only a shed and IMO opinion overkill for a shed. If the roofing is installed correctly at the pitch we used, there should be no issues. Do note that houses built over a half a century ago did not use drip edges and have stood up very well.
Bearing in mind that I'm a complete newly on roofing, I bought my shingles of this shed and brought them home. Went to preparing them and found they don't match the size depicted in this video. Apparently they are metric. Who knew? Not me for sure.
Paul Gritton The size it not critical if you follow the general guidelines... e.g. laying out the width first and so on. The only difference will likely be in the shingle exposure (number of rows required). The principal is the same.
Country Life Projects & Living Yes, I did find that I had about a full bundle extra of shingles. I had no idea there were different sized shingles. Live and learn I guess. I am very pleased with the videos and plans for this shed. Well done videos too. Highly recommend this shed/project for new or beginning builders.
Hi Mark.... sorry for the delay answering, been a crazy busy fall. For a shed, tar paper is totally fine. However, some areas no longer allow its use - but that may only apply once a structure is over X amount of square footage requiring permits. If no building codes apply, I would use it - just be sure to overlap the horizontal joints etc.
There are a number of roofing applications that are optional (unless required by code but that is mainly for homes and garages), especially for a shed. IMO a drip edge for a shed is overkill. Many homes built 50 years ago have stood the test of time with no drip edge and if rot occurred, it was mainly due to poor workmanship versus the use of a drip edge. That said, if one wants to spend the extra money and time to use a drip edge on a shed, there is no reason not to.
That is called high nailing and it is not recommended by any shingle manufacturers and may void the shingle warranty. Doing so makes it likely to puncture the shingle surface, cause lift on exposed shingles and prevent shingles from laying as flat as possible providing the best wind resistance.
Also, when nailed as shown in the video, you effectively have two rows of nails holding each shingle, those nailed as each shingle is applied, and nails applied on the next row go through the top of the underlying shingle.
You are literally the Bob Ross of carpentry!
You are amazing to watch and get advice from. I have watched you build this shed and I am sure I could do it myself, your information is so good! I so wish when my father was alive that we had internet and videos like yours so he could have learned from individuals like yourself. You are indeed a blessing!
superb video,,, informative and no stupid music to drown out the instruction and our concentration
I had a 7’10” wide by 32’ trailer with tin roof.
I am insulating and going with a shingle roof. Materials are under $1,000 in inflated 2023 prices but includes everything I needed. This video is a gold mine of information, well taught / shown.
Thanks for saving me thousands of dollars helping me do the job, a better job than the expensive, sloppy, disrespectful, hurried tradesmen we have here.
What a great video. Finally old school teaching. Clear, thorough and in English. God bless.
Your detailed videos have saved me from making so many boneheaded mistakes while building a shed from scratch. Others try but end up skimming over the details needed. I can't thank you enough - my shed turned out great.
Watched this through my entire shed roofing project. Thanks a ton for the great detail and instructions. I have shingled many roofs but it had been quite a few years so the refresher was perfect.
Agree with so many other posters!! It is so hard to be this detailed in so short a time: You really have a wonderful teaching skill. I just paid for my roof to be redone- I can't believe the "professionals" maybe had ever roofed before. Thank you very much!!!!
I'm so envious of how perfect everything is. Boards all lined up level and plumb. I'm trying but still have some learning to do.
I'm about to use 3-tab shingles to re-shingle a small wishing well roof. Never shingled before. I've watched several videos on it. This video, so far, is the ONLY video I could find that addresses the measuring of the roof, so that you have equal. symmetrical shingle amounts on each side (not a full tab on one edge, and a 1/4" on the other). That fact was bothering me, and no other videos talk about it. They just start off with a full shingle sheet flush with the edge. I'm kinda Obsessive with such details but even This Old House didn't mention it. Well done.
Enjoyable to say the least. Some great tips even for an old timer like me. Thanks from England.
Thank you for making these videos! I have never undertaken a project of this magnitude and have no special carpentry skills or more tools than basic table saw and impact driver. I watched each of your videos MANY times and am almost done with an 8 x 8 chicken coop. THANK YOU!!!
Great job and thank you so much to show us to any one who interested to learn .. God bless you
Thanks so much I built my shed from scratch and was wary when it came to the roof but I followed your steps from start to finish and it turned out great, you explain things so well...
Glad to hear that!
Excellent video. It doesn't get any more professional, helpful, and useful than this. I am putting on my first roof tomorrow and now I have no worries or doubts. I was guided on every little step and all of my questions were answered. THANKS!!!
I roof for a living, at first I was skeptical but you clearly know your stuff. I'd do a few things differently but I never even considered wondering direction while installing my caps. Good tip 👌
Also a tip: when adding the last piece to the ridge cap and you Tar the mail heads on that last piece, take some of the loose asphalt from the shingle packaging and sprinkle some on to of the tar, it hides the nail heads
Good point... I got that tip shortly after we finished the videos too - but too late to show it then.
Put tar glue/sealent on the last four ridge cap exposed nail heads, then press loose granular material from the bags the shingles came in onto the soft tar, and abracadabra like a magician - even the tar color disapears!
Excellent,I have started to build a hipped shed roof, and now I am looking if you do a video with shingles on a roof like that, thanks for the detailed instructions.
Great instruction. Thanks. Your style makes me think of Larry Haun
Thanks for showing with all the details. It helped me in building 8' x 12' shed all by myself.
Amit Shah Glad our videos helped and you were able to complete your shed.
Great video and thanks for posting it. Just finished rebuilding my shed and installing a new roof. Couldn't have done it without your help - thanks!
So true.
Thank you very much! Best instructional video I could find by far, just finished up my first shingling project 10 minutes ago. :)
Perfect , this will be the style shed I'll be building next spring. I'll be using a 4/12 pitch.
Thanks for all of the good ideas.
Made it look easy. Very informative,one of the best explained roofing lessons on TH-cam.Thank you for the lesson.
Thank u I'm building a shed and this was perfect.
Thank you so much for your video show me step by step although my English is not good but I still understanding how to do it. Thank you again. I will fix my roof tomorrow.
Excellent explain .God bless you . You are just a perfect man who do a perfect job
Excellent instructional video for first timers, thank you,
Harry
I think his name is Henry, not Harry.
Did a pretty good job installing the three-tab asphalt fiberglass mat roofing shingle..Good tip about looking for damage on the edge of the bundles and squares..the closed rake and soffit looks pretty nice on this shed..
I had to pop chalk lines myself with no helper. What I did was place the metal guide piece on my mark and then anchored it with a small piece of duct tape. Held perfectly for all chalk lines.
If you put a dab of plastic roof cement over any exposed nail heads, collect some colored granules from the packaging and sprinkle onto the cement. It will camouflage it.
I was surprised you didn't use a metal drip cap on the edges. A roofer from South Florida taught me after Hurricane Hugo to apply a wide strip of "bull" or plastic roof cement along all edges so the wind cannot lift them off. That is especially true at those ridge caps that don't have any cement under them.
All exposed edges ideally should be bevelled or have a drip kerf cut into them and primed to prevent capillary water damage.
Really good video series over all with a good host, well thought out videography and script. Glad to see the editing correcting misspeaking as everyone does it.
Water is what destroys buildings so at every step consider how to keep it out.
Hi Hearthman... Some very good points. I just learned a little trick with the granules (thank you). Your other points are valid and should be considered in areas of high winds. For those that live elsewhere those methods would likely be overkill but in areas as you noted, for sure. Keep in mind, it is a shed and cost can just keep going up if you do too much - so if it is not need for most areas we kept it out of the build.
Excellent instructional video for first timers, Thank you, Little John Sherwood Forest
A thorough video that matches a thorough built shed, Thank You. Home depot has lost sales on there prebuilt sheds because of these.
Awesome video, learned a lot thank you sir, keep them coming.
Great series. Thanks for all the help I just built me a 9x20 all by myself.
I wish this guy was my dad… I wouldn’t be living in a van down by the river. ☹️
Thanks for all explanation and molding work
Thanks for your tips! Taht will help me a lot to finish my roof.
Great video, im thinking about doing my garage roof myself. This video if very easy to understand for a diy dummy like myself. Thank you
Thank you for making these videos!
Thanks for taking your time & providing such a detailed video.
Very clean job, the way I like things done....
wow, what a teacher
Thank you this was helpful
Thorough and very helpful.
I only seen one thing that I mightp ossibly change. I would likely nail above or in the tar line versus below it to protect the nails, otherwise this is a great roofing and ridge capping video!
Excellent and easy to follow. Thanks!
Thank you so much. Very helpful.
Outstanding work 👏 👌
Awesome video. Sounds alot like general Tullius from Skyrim 😂
Works fantastic, would recommend. Good value
Excellent Videos. Thanks.
I like your video for roof lessons thank you .👍💕
Very well explained thank you
Thank you for addressing "high wind areas"! I easily get gale-force upslope winds every year.
One of the best tutorial videos I’ve seen. Great job 👍
great video tutorial. Thank you.
Thank you!!
Excellent presentation
Outstanding. Well explained and easy to follow instructions. Thanks for this vid
Best video on youtube!
Thank s ! Well explained and easy to follow instructions.
Excellent video awesome so educational
very detail and fully explain . learned a lot from you, thanks . you are one of the best.
Thank you very much for your video. It helps a lot.
Finally someone who explains the WHOLE process, and doesn't 'restofthefuckingowl' it. Thank you
Thank you bro!
Thank you much for these videos. Question regarding nails. If I plan to have the underside of the overhang exposed, should I just use shorter nails to prevent the nails from coming through under the overhang, or is there a different procedure or glue to make sure those first couple of rows of shingles are secure. I was even thinking of using T&G as roof sheathing around the perimeter so it is visible underneath the overhang, and I wouldn't want nails to come through on that section. Thanks much!
That is a good question. Have not dealt with this before. Using shorter nails might work for the first layer, but they may be too short on the second layer and it will be difficult to get just the right length to ensure they do not poke through and still have enough holding strength - especially for the first rows which are most venerable to high winds. I have to be honest, I am not sure how professional roofers would handle this and it can't hurt to ask one or two local roofing contractors how they would do this.
That said, if it was my choice, for the best appearance, I would use 3/4" material around the perimeter where it will be seen from underneath. Then strap the remainder with 1x4 strapping. I would then put 1/2" or sheathing over the entire roof. This will provide a substrate of 1 1/4" around the perimeter plus the thickness of the first layer of shingle (roughly just under 1/8" depending on the shingle). Now you can easily use the recommended 1 1/4" long nails without any concern of them penetrating through the underside.
But, as noted, it can't hurt to consult a few roofers and see what they recommend. Maybe there is an adhesive that can be used in conjunction with shorter nails on the first rows that would provide the required strength to prevent blow off in high winds.
Awesome job. Great video! Thank you.
the best trener
great tips, thanks a lot!
Glad it was helpful!
thank you for explaining everything i am definitely buying my plans from you . just one question what are the wind ratings for the sheds ? i live in Florida and everyone knows we have hurricanes that is why i am asking thanks again
Hi Jim... there is no wind ratings for the shed, however, you may want to chat with a local builder to see if there they have any suggestions. Hurricane anchors are a must but there may be other considerations... and as I am not familiar with the specs for Florida, I cannot advise on this.
Nice video and clear explanation. Thanks.
Fantastic video. Very knowledgeable
You got a permit for that thing bro oh my God
Nice!!! Good video good information thanks
Muy buen video señor Gracias
If you install drip edging along the base and gable fascia boards, about 1/2" (3/4" or 1" if you'd like) out, you automatically have an edge to use for extending the shigles, instead of using a 1" wide board, and creting more holes in the facia board. drip edge cost about as much as the wood these days, but serves a good purpose, eh!!!
You can just fill the holes with a good quality caulk.
you do very well
Thank you so much Sir. God bless!
do you have a video on a reroof? redoing a roof that already has one layer of shingles on it?
+the eabster Not at this time. But IMO, if i was to redo a roof, I would not go over the existing. I would tear it off and start fresh from the sheathing. In the end, the over all job is better, looks better and will last longer. Ask a "Good" roofer and they will likely agree it is the best way to go. Some roofers will go over existing shingles to save on the cost of tear off but most will not for warranty reasons.
Tear off the old singles leaving them on is the lazy way of roofing You want a good look at your roof surface anyway to see if there is any damage rot etc
Good
Hi did you put a 1 inch over the gable ends? That seems like its a lot. A lot of others only put a 1/2 inch. I like the inch but is it going to sag?
1" may sag a little but it is not likely to be enough that anyone will notice. There is a benefit to a little sag as the water will run off the edge and drip off - where as if you have a rigid 1/2" overhang, the water could travel back under the shingle to the fascia board, possibly under the shingle a little (not to likely in most cases, but possible).
When using the spacer board on the front, isn't that screwed into the trim piece that was just put up, making unsightly screw holes? Do you go back and fill those in later after you take the spacer off?
Hi Aelanna... The screw holes when using cedar are very small. And yes, before we finish the final coat of paint we filled the holes with caulking and later painted over them - never to be seen again.
Just wondering if there was a better or more random pattern to apply?
You have rows 1, 3, 5 and so on the same break. Is there a better way to do this?
Hi J... When it comes to these type of shingles that is not critical. The main priority is that the row overlaying the prior does not have an open slit above a shingle joint.
Outstanding!!!
I am really not good at that, but I wonder whether some glue would not help with the cap on the very top, just in case the wind changes regular position?
Probably not a good idea, and not really needed. With the amount of nails in this strip and the tension created bending them over the peak, these are the least likely to tear off first. Usually the weak point is at the base of the roof or the gable ends. Also, glue is unlikely to stick well to the shingles.
@@Countrylifeprojects Thank you for your explanation!
This is the guy that one should have to do your roof. Not too many that care anymore. Everyone wants to save a hour and screw it up.
Boar Hog The reality is that if any roofer spent as long as this doing a shed roof, they would either make no money, or they would have to quote the job with a high enough labour cost that they wouldn't get the job. Many people underestimate amount of work involved in roofing and they think you are overcharging.
pguiver These videos are not about roofers making money, they are about anyone watching them using the info to do a nice job of a shed roof (or any other project). Pro's would not do a lot of things I did. E.g. hand nailing, chalk lines for each course etc but these videos are intended for DIY'ers.
pguiver I depends on how much a guy charges per hour. I know i am in business as well and some guys think they are worth 100 hr and they aren't worth 30
I watch the Pros roof across the street lots of short cuts and in IMHO rushed it. Once done the homeowner wouldn't see or now the difference. I'm pretty sure my roof will outlast that one as we took the care in doing it right not just fast The youngsters ding it certainly were in the 30 buck range
Any need for a dripedge on the roof? Must admit it looks much better without it
Hi Ty, if you look at homes built several decades ago, there was no such thing as a drip edge. IMO the use of drip edge(cap) today is to compensate for inferior fascia materials that need protection from moisture and rainfall e.g. OSB etc. If you use good quality solid lumber for fascia I think a drip edge is not required - especially for a shed.
I noticed there is no drip edge. Do you have a video for the drip edge installation?
Hi Scott... for a shed we felt drip edge was a bit overkill and just an extra expense so we opted not to add it. In our opinion, many houses built in the early to mid 19th century did just fine without drip edges. Taking time to do a proper install is the most important. That said - - Since it is available, I would definitely use it on a larger more permanent investment like a house or garage.
I can't find drip edge for the gable end available in the UK!!
Thank you for you help
Videos, what is the nailing pattern for Owens Corning shingles
Hi Bill... there are so many types of shingles available I cannot tell you that - but they should show this on the wrapper of the shingles - failing that, check their website as most of these large companies have all that information. Even the pros have to check these specs once in a while and expect that information to be available.
CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME? I am looking for rolls of asphalt roofing material. I saw a sample of what i want. It has a design on the roll of asphalt roofing of fish scale shingles. These are not actually shingles. They are drawn on by the manufacturer.
Hi Tiffany... Sorry, but I am not familiar with a rolled roofing that has a shingle pattern on the surface.
Chalking lines all over the roof isn't really necessary. As long as you make sure that your first course is straight, then each following course will be straight if you install them all with equal exposure. Either with the gauge on the nail gun (or the gauge on a shingling hatchet if hand nailing) or using the tip of the tab groove as the exposure guide.
pguiver Granted... however, we did the roof this way to make sure that "everyone" regardless of experience would be able to do the roof and achieve good professional looking results. I've seen roofs done by so called pro's without chalk lines and somehow... as you get closer to the ridge the shingles seem to be less straight than the first half of the roof.
Good point, I have seen many roofs done with courses waving all over the place by pros as many of them don't take the time to make sure each shingle is aligned properly even if their first course is straight. Personally I would skip the non-crucial chalk lines but still invest the time in making sure there is equal exposure throughout the roof. I guess I've done it enough that my courses are always perfectly parallel to the ridge when they reach that point.
pguiver Pro's, the good ones, get an eye for these things and will see subtle changes as they work, and those that care may snap a new line to stay straight, others don't. Good roofers would check as they go, but most DIY'ers would not notice these things until done... so I used the techniques shown in the video as I felt this would avoid most issues and a poor roof job.
When we roofed we did few chalk lines and it turned out real good. IMHO it's worth the effort if your new which I was
No drip edge???
Nope... this is only a shed and IMO opinion overkill for a shed. If the roofing is installed correctly at the pitch we used, there should be no issues. Do note that houses built over a half a century ago did not use drip edges and have stood up very well.
Bearing in mind that I'm a complete newly on roofing, I bought my shingles of this shed and brought them home. Went to preparing them and found they don't match the size depicted in this video. Apparently they are metric. Who knew? Not me for sure.
Paul Gritton The size it not critical if you follow the general guidelines... e.g. laying out the width first and so on. The only difference will likely be in the shingle exposure (number of rows required). The principal is the same.
Country Life Projects & Living Yes, I did find that I had about a full bundle extra of shingles. I had no idea there were different sized shingles. Live and learn I guess. I am very pleased with the videos and plans for this shed. Well done videos too. Highly recommend this shed/project for new or beginning builders.
Is tar paper ok ?
Hi Mark.... sorry for the delay answering, been a crazy busy fall. For a shed, tar paper is totally fine. However, some areas no longer allow its use - but that may only apply once a structure is over X amount of square footage requiring permits. If no building codes apply, I would use it - just be sure to overlap the horizontal joints etc.
What about drip edge??
There are a number of roofing applications that are optional (unless required by code but that is mainly for homes and garages), especially for a shed. IMO a drip edge for a shed is overkill. Many homes built 50 years ago have stood the test of time with no drip edge and if rot occurred, it was mainly due to poor workmanship versus the use of a drip edge. That said, if one wants to spend the extra money and time to use a drip edge on a shed, there is no reason not to.
You should nail above tar strip line on shingle.
That is called high nailing and it is not recommended by any shingle manufacturers and may void the shingle warranty. Doing so makes it likely to puncture the shingle surface, cause lift on exposed shingles and prevent shingles from laying as flat as possible providing the best wind resistance.
Also, when nailed as shown in the video, you effectively have two rows of nails holding each shingle, those nailed as each shingle is applied, and nails applied on the next row go through the top of the underlying shingle.