Great Video Naptown! I have assembled 8 of these now, and I dont follow the build guide, I do the trigger last. I start with the mag well secton first and loosely bolt them into one half of the shell install the linear rails, then bolt on the front bulkhead then do the plunger system... Got the build time down to 30 min. Dont use any loctite on the shell to bolt it down, its spring loaded, you do all the screws up loosely and once they are all in then do then up tight. The plunger tube issue has been addressed. Only use blue or purple loctite, so its not premanant. I have one that had the same issue with one being really tight on the plunger tube, and it wouldnt come out... I primed the blaster upright, and had a very loose dart fall into the plunger system when I accidently opened the breach (I was single loading during testing). So i had to take the rear block for the plunger tube. Undo the priming bar at the front, and slide the guts of the system out to remove the dart that was preventing me from closing the breach. So you dont need the tube to be removeable to clear an issue like this. Good lubrication for this blaster is Inox MX6.
Have you ever encountered any major issues regarding missing screws, misaligned parts or anything that requires a good amount of DIY work in order to get it done?
Mate, have the exact same issue as you, my plunger tube just doesn't won't to go into the circular slot. Bit disappointed in the overall QC of this blaster tbh.
You only use red Loctite to attach the pusher base to the pusher. Blue is good for the priming bar screws. And it looks like you may have not been informed that the priming bar + pusher base connection also requires a grub screw on top perpendicular to the cap head screw. (That could use blue Loctite, too.) Yes, I know it's not in the instructions or Bradley's video. But if you don't install the grub screw, the pusher tip will be able to move up and down. And as I'm sure you now know, getting to the pusher base and doing it after assembly is a pain. But good video, thanks! I've been subscribed a long time.
This it's just one more thing proving my point with the instructions. Not sure how to get to that now specially, since my plunger tube is not coming out...
@@NaptownNerf If you remove the block at the back, and unscrew the front connection of the priming bar (to the priming block), then the pusher assembly can slide out with the priming bar.
I wanted to order this blaster, but you just saved me a bunch of money. I don't want a premium priced blaster with poor instructions and manufacturing issues. I mean, you can't even get the plunger tube out, because it's sitting way too tight? WTF!
Love this blaster. Most enjoyable blaster I have ever used.
Great Video Naptown!
I have assembled 8 of these now, and I dont follow the build guide, I do the trigger last. I start with the mag well secton first and loosely bolt them into one half of the shell install the linear rails, then bolt on the front bulkhead then do the plunger system... Got the build time down to 30 min.
Dont use any loctite on the shell to bolt it down, its spring loaded, you do all the screws up loosely and once they are all in then do then up tight.
The plunger tube issue has been addressed.
Only use blue or purple loctite, so its not premanant.
I have one that had the same issue with one being really tight on the plunger tube, and it wouldnt come out... I primed the blaster upright, and had a very loose dart fall into the plunger system when I accidently opened the breach (I was single loading during testing). So i had to take the rear block for the plunger tube. Undo the priming bar at the front, and slide the guts of the system out to remove the dart that was preventing me from closing the breach. So you dont need the tube to be removeable to clear an issue like this.
Good lubrication for this blaster is Inox MX6.
Have you ever encountered any major issues regarding missing screws, misaligned parts or anything that requires a good amount of DIY work in order to get it done?
Appreciate your openess about the challenges of putting this blaster together. Thank you and take care.
Mate, have the exact same issue as you, my plunger tube just doesn't won't to go into the circular slot. Bit disappointed in the overall QC of this blaster tbh.
You only use red Loctite to attach the pusher base to the pusher. Blue is good for the priming bar screws.
And it looks like you may have not been informed that the priming bar + pusher base connection also requires a grub screw on top perpendicular to the cap head screw. (That could use blue Loctite, too.) Yes, I know it's not in the instructions or Bradley's video. But if you don't install the grub screw, the pusher tip will be able to move up and down. And as I'm sure you now know, getting to the pusher base and doing it after assembly is a pain.
But good video, thanks! I've been subscribed a long time.
This it's just one more thing proving my point with the instructions. Not sure how to get to that now specially, since my plunger tube is not coming out...
@@NaptownNerf If you remove the block at the back, and unscrew the front connection of the priming bar (to the priming block), then the pusher assembly can slide out with the priming bar.
Fit and finish issues seem to be common. It'd be nice if Conrad takes this onboard.
I had the same issue with the snug fit. I hammered mine on with a rubber mallet but did not sand it. Was VERY tight.
I wanted to order this blaster, but you just saved me a bunch of money. I don't want a premium priced blaster with poor instructions and manufacturing issues. I mean, you can't even get the plunger tube out, because it's sitting way too tight? WTF!
I need this frame 😳😳😳😳😳
Was this blaster issued by Vault-Tec?
Manufacture defects sucks