well done mate, nice of you to take your time to help others and your method works, what really pisses me off is the fact others comment on here putting down your efforts, keep doing what your doing mate, others are lazy gits, well done.
Results look nice. When sanding, sand across the direction of your fingers not in-line with them because where your fingers are puts down more pressure. Headlights not hard to remove, which saves the masking steps. Also can probably get better results from just polishing out the lens rather than spraying it.
I did a similar treatment with my Jetta, but mine was much more simple (just automotive clear coat) result was okay, not as good as yours in the end. The palette wrap idea though is genius, wish I had watched this video before I did it, spent hours taping newspaper around the headlights.
Great Video!!I have done as you recommended, but not wet and dried after the lacquer, as it looks good.Is it necessary to wet and dry and polish with a compound afterwards??
excellent vid boydie. i gotta be more careful with the spray. light light light layers are important. or else you end up with milky flaked finish. hate redoing my work lol. luckily i got another ride to drive while the headlights are off mine.
You're going to need a 2K clear to really fix your lights proper. The 2k clear contains a hardener which will resist the the sun's UV rays fat better than the single stage cheapo clear coat in the cans.
Hello, I am about to start doing this soon and would like to know how long to wet and sand inbetween each session or grit papers? kind regards, Harmeet
Hello! Thanks for the video! How do you avoid that dust particles come on the headlights while the paint is still wet? And what is your long term experience? Does it still look good after a few years?
I guess you used a 1 component clear coat? How well did it last - if you still have the car? I'm considering if this would last better with a 2 component clear coat?
Hello bmacvags love your channel and videos very helpful man. just wondering if want to do this but would I need to regularly Polish to keep the same finish? I wanted to basically gt it to your finish but keep the results long term?
Hi fella really enjoyed you videos. can i ask i have a issue with my TT mk1 that window wipers have stop moveing but it still spays water?? any advice would be great cheers Trevor
hi 3g best ii found to finish job . did try clear coat on another car but as plastic was far to old the clear coat enede up eating the plastic . on differ subject i need help bmac as cant find a contact link on your web site .
hi how are you? I have a question for you my dear hope you help me out. I have an audi a3 1.9tdi 55 reg. I have seen your video recently where you change steering rack on a golf. I have bought my car recently. upon driving I realised that the steering on the car is heavy or stiff. I also have a problem underneath the vehicle when it goes over bums. front brake pads also needed replacement. therfore yesterday I thought when changing the front brake pads I might as well check all the joints from underneath. when I was changing front brake pads I realised the wheel hub seems to be stuck and it only moves if you move the steering from inside the car. with my old Toyota I just used to leave the ignition key in on position and I could move the hub left or right quite easily with my hands in order to remove the caliper pins. but on this audi a3 1.9tdi 55 reg I can't do that because it's so stiff I literally have to turn the steering from inside to bring it to the desired position. anyway I checked the car yesterday from underneath and found one of the bushing loose in the subframe. It also seemed to me that apparently there is an oil leak which has actually deteriorated the bush. somebody has suggested to me that if the steering rack is leaking oil then there should be a warning sign or light on the dashboard however there is none. what I would like to know is if let suppose the steering rack is leaking or faulty should there be a code on the dashboard. and finally if the steering rack is changed would it be needed to set on the scanned tool. and finally what's the best way of checking wheel bearings. the hub is very stiff to rotate even when the car is in neutral. I will be grateful for your reply
after i spray the clear coat and let it dry for 2 days,i got a lot of orange peel,i wet sand it with 2000 grit and the headlight become milky again.what can i do againt the orange peel
I've had to do this twice. So here's some advice: DO NOT REMOVE THE HEADLIGHTS FROM THE CAR: If you have HID projectors, you have to re aim the lights and that is very very difficult to do. BUT I WANT TO TAKE THE HEADLIGHT OFF! Cool, first you have to remove the bumper AND the belly pan. Yes you can use 2k clear on the lights but the 2k clear WILL flake off eventually and two years later you WILL have to respray anyway. Sure, you can buy new headlights, they run $200 PER HEADLIGHT USED. (New, they're $800 EACH). The HID bulb is $80 EACH. My advice, JUST POLISH THE BLOODY LIGHT.
Why? you'd have to take the wheels off to get the bumper off to remove the headlamps!!! Then how do you hold the headlamp whilst polishing and sanding? much easier with a bit of masking tape
@@HagakureJunkie that aiming definitely depends on the manufacturer i'd say. i've got mine off now and all the adjustments seem internal to the headlight unit itself. i didn't turn any screws or anything. no need for adjustment.
Generally ok, but.. This thin layer on your lamp is anti-UV layer. Without it your lamps will get yellowish in few months. Futhermore - using normal clear spray is pretty much useless. It looks ok but only at the beggining. Those kind of sprays are not designed for difficult weather/road conditions. What You should do: definitely use 2k spray. If You don't have paint gun just buy 2k spray. They're pretty new on market (fe. ColorMatic 2k). 2k = spray + hardener. There is no exception - it has to be 2k - otherwise lamps will look awful in few months time. Still, You got poor UV layer - thats why from time to time (after few car washes) You should apply anti-UV headlight protector. It doesn't cost a lot and You can be sure You won't need to replace headlights couse yellowish colour ;) Of course, thanks for tutorial - I'm just saying it, couse I did it similary, and... I have to replace headlight half a year later. Cheers!
works a treat. Quite a therapeutic exercise with a super result. Fab narrator with a calm tone. Cheers.
Just spent the weekend doing both.... Ur the man, came up like new cheers. £300 saved me
you explain everything really clearly, but simply, liked it
well done mate, nice of you to take your time to help others and your method works, what really pisses me off is the fact others comment on here putting down your efforts, keep doing what your doing mate, others are lazy gits, well done.
This is amazing! I have just this problem - someone mentioned body shops doing something like this - but thanks to you, I’m going to do it myself!!
Results look nice. When sanding, sand across the direction of your fingers not in-line with them because where your fingers are puts down more pressure. Headlights not hard to remove, which saves the masking steps. Also can probably get better results from just polishing out the lens rather than spraying it.
excellent work fella - tried the 3M kit and it was .. wasted effort. Nice to see how to do the job properly and the results patience brings!!
Great job bro. I' m gonna do the same on my TT
I did a similar treatment with my Jetta, but mine was much more simple (just automotive clear coat) result was okay, not as good as yours in the end. The palette wrap idea though is genius, wish I had watched this video before I did it, spent hours taping newspaper around the headlights.
That's another great diy tutorial! I'm all over this!
great work,massive improvement. i bet alot of passat owners will be copying this.
Always well done. Always very informative thank you
Great repair. Saved from buying new headlamps.
Great Video!!I have done as you recommended, but not wet and dried after the lacquer, as it looks good.Is it necessary to wet and dry and polish with a compound afterwards??
excellent vid boydie. i gotta be more careful with the spray. light light light layers are important. or else you end up with milky flaked finish. hate redoing my work lol. luckily i got another ride to drive while the headlights are off mine.
great video. thanks for the hard work
You're going to need a 2K clear to really fix your lights proper. The 2k clear contains a hardener which will resist the the sun's UV rays fat better than the single stage cheapo clear coat in the cans.
nice videos man, thank you, you should put one on how to remove the door handle
Hi BMAC.
Can you list the products you use in the description for future viewers.
Thanks mate.
From previous experience I've found out not to do the clear coat in damp weather, it causes it to not dry clear but have a milky look
Really enjoy your videos Man
Thanks for sharing that. Need to do this to my Sons headlights. I tried to use T cut but no good. Thanks again,
Thanks for the support on the video
Great job. My combo's getting that.
Very nice i have a TT convertible need to do the same Barney1
thanks very helpful I thought my headlights look a little foggy will do this at some point.
Good video. Liked it.
Great Video. Is the Lacquer the same as Clear Coat Paint?
Hello, I am about to start doing this soon and would like to know how long to wet and sand inbetween each session or grit papers?
kind regards,
Harmeet
Very well done video! Great job!
Hey bmac, could you do a video on how to safely wash a 1.8t engine/bay eg. What to cover so it doesnt get damaged.
Hello! Thanks for the video! How do you avoid that dust particles come on the headlights while the paint is still wet? And what is your long term experience? Does it still look good after a few years?
Spray in the cleanest environment possible, and wet sand partiles and polish
good idea o n the plastic wrap
Can I use Vinager instead of alcohol before I spray the clear coat lacquer? Thanks :)
Liked and subscribed. Thanks for the video
Awesome video!! What kind of polish did u use(name brand etc)?
Brand> Auto Extreme > Lacquer clear perfect finish@
I guess you used a 1 component clear coat? How well did it last - if you still have the car? I'm considering if this would last better with a 2 component clear coat?
It lasted well, I no longer have the car
sweet will try tomorrow
Hello bmacvags love your channel and videos very helpful man. just wondering if want to do this but would I need to regularly Polish to keep the same finish? I wanted to basically gt it to your finish but keep the results long term?
awesome video, well done man
Hi fella really enjoyed you videos. can i ask i have a issue with my TT mk1 that window wipers have stop moveing but it still spays water?? any advice would be great
cheers
Trevor
Great vid!! Cheers bro
very nice results
NOO!! That is the dogs bollocks gunna be doing this in future cheers for the upload
great video which I found very helpful.
Excellent
+BMAC VAGS where are you based mate
+Ash K Enfield, North London
+BMAC VAGS thanks for replying mate can you do this for my car please i tried this before n i messed it up i dony mind paying
+Ash K Have you got me on facebook?
Great video..!
nice job perfect,tnx to know
hi
3g best ii found to finish job . did try clear coat on another car but as plastic was far to old the clear coat enede up eating the plastic .
on differ subject i need help bmac as cant find a contact link on your web site .
Great job
hi how are you? I have a question for you my dear hope you help me out. I have an audi a3 1.9tdi 55 reg. I have seen your video recently where you change steering rack on a golf. I have bought my car recently. upon driving I realised that the steering on the car is heavy or stiff. I also have a problem underneath the vehicle when it goes over bums. front brake pads also needed replacement. therfore yesterday I thought when changing the front brake pads I might as well check all the joints from underneath. when I was changing front brake pads I realised the wheel hub seems to be stuck and it only moves if you move the steering from inside the car. with my old Toyota I just used to leave the ignition key in on position and I could move the hub left or right quite easily with my hands in order to remove the caliper pins. but on this audi a3 1.9tdi 55 reg I can't do that because it's so stiff I literally have to turn the steering from inside to bring it to the desired position.
anyway I checked the car yesterday from underneath and found one of the bushing loose in the subframe. It also seemed to me that apparently there is an oil leak which has actually deteriorated the bush. somebody has suggested to me that if the steering rack is leaking oil then there should be a warning sign or light on the dashboard however there is none. what I would like to know is if let suppose the steering rack is leaking or faulty should there be a code on the dashboard. and finally if the steering rack is changed would it be needed to set on the scanned tool. and finally what's the best way of checking wheel bearings. the hub is very stiff to rotate even when the car is in neutral. I will be grateful for your reply
it looks really easy..
Thank you for watching
Nice, do you mind putting the link for where you've brought the clear coat?
Jn Walmart, Ace, Home Depot, Lowe's, paint stores, etc.
Fantastic !
great video!!!
good job
after i spray the clear coat and let it dry for 2 days,i got a lot of orange peel,i wet sand it with 2000 grit and the headlight become milky again.what can i do againt the orange peel
I've had to do this twice. So here's some advice:
DO NOT REMOVE THE HEADLIGHTS FROM THE CAR: If you have HID projectors, you have to re aim the lights and that is very very difficult to do.
BUT I WANT TO TAKE THE HEADLIGHT OFF! Cool, first you have to remove the bumper AND the belly pan.
Yes you can use 2k clear on the lights but the 2k clear WILL flake off eventually and two years later you WILL have to respray anyway.
Sure, you can buy new headlights, they run $200 PER HEADLIGHT USED. (New, they're $800 EACH). The HID bulb is $80 EACH. My advice, JUST POLISH THE BLOODY LIGHT.
I just used toothpaste and that worked fine on my mk1 audi tt
been asking for weeks. can you please please please doing a brake booster video on an mk4!!??
Amazing
What about glass lenses?
what's that opening track fam?
I would take that headlight unit off and put it back after polished
Why? you'd have to take the wheels off to get the bumper off to remove the headlamps!!! Then how do you hold the headlamp whilst polishing and sanding? much easier with a bit of masking tape
Great!
cool man nice
Sick guy.
Just take your time :)
I found out why the go hazy and foggy ... Too much blue cheese stuck in the Air Intake.. now my TT is Clear as day innit Man!!
Can you not just sandpaper the plastic and then polish it up without lacquer? The lacquer will eventually fade again?
so will the polish
shall i take my time?
is this a glass or plastic headlight?
@bmacvag
Plastic I'm pretty sure
+phexitay cool...i got some angel eyes for my leon but need to clean them up
north scotland
Nice :)
Wenn Ihr die coating Schicht durchschleift habt Ihr ein Problem!
I'm gonna guess that's a 2005ish car? my 2006 VW had the foggy headlight going on! Haha
You surely rubbed down all of the clear coat...
he applied 3 coats of lacquer. last one was pretty thick. i doubt some light rubbing with 1200 grit paper and some polish took all of it off bro
"rub it down and alot of this white stuff comin in"
just buy 3M its the same thing
i think was much easier just to remove the headlight of the vehicle
You need to take off the bumper to remove the headlight. Plus you then have to re aim the projector lights when you reinstall which is difficult.
@@HagakureJunkie that aiming definitely depends on the manufacturer i'd say. i've got mine off now and all the adjustments seem internal to the headlight unit itself. i didn't turn any screws or anything. no need for adjustment.
Generally ok, but..
This thin layer on your lamp is anti-UV layer. Without it your lamps will get yellowish in few months. Futhermore - using normal clear spray is pretty much useless. It looks ok but only at the beggining. Those kind of sprays are not designed for difficult weather/road conditions. What You should do: definitely use 2k spray. If You don't have paint gun just buy 2k spray. They're pretty new on market (fe. ColorMatic 2k). 2k = spray + hardener. There is no exception - it has to be 2k - otherwise lamps will look awful in few months time. Still, You got poor UV layer - thats why from time to time (after few car washes) You should apply anti-UV headlight protector. It doesn't cost a lot and You can be sure You won't need to replace headlights couse yellowish colour ;) Of course, thanks for tutorial - I'm just saying it, couse I did it similary, and... I have to replace headlight half a year later. Cheers!
this is 2 pack isn't it? which you usually need a licence for if I heard correctly
Mateusz Czapiewski.. Why replace it when you can just sand it again?
Or you can use a if protective paint lol
@@TheMoffBoy 2k clear is available on ebay. No license
Bro let me send u some music. I'm a producer. No charge. More Peppy.... Your music is cool but could be energized. lol
yes please, do you have facebook?
+BMAC VAGS Yes. But here's my gmail. mikevelibeatz.biz@gmail.com
just t-cut a lot quicker
Doesn't last. You;ll have to repeat the process every year or so.
We did this today...3 mins a light using a mop and some 3M products...this was a waste of 2-3 hours lol 😂😂😂
But how long will the polish last? 🤔
+BMAC VAGS 13 months and counting on my Fosus ST we thought the same thing bro...seems sweet
or just buy a new headlight
Yeah I've done that twice. HID projector lights run $200 EACH. I'd rather fucking sand them.
Bad job.
I didn't even feel like watching the whole video so I know I'm not about to do all this
nice job