A tip of advice from someone that has the zj fan, you can install the fan, clutch, and shroud all at once. You just hold the fan in its shroud position as you drop it all in and then you don't have to cut the shroud up.
@@samquintrall3740True. Only downside is the whole works has to come back out when working on some other front end components, or the front end clip has to be disconnected and brought forward.
Did this and the motor torqued over and the clutch took out the radiator, I went original new xj clutch new mishimoto rad and a mishimoto 10 inch race line fan on a switch I have no issues out here in phx az
@@2dollarrip571 take a long look at your radiator and engine mounts, if you haven't done that yet. Usually when the engine moves that much, they're done.
It's been done by others, for example to reduce vapor lock by running the fan for a minute after ignition shut off. Unfortunately it's not on my short list right now.
It's louder as expected (more woooooOOOO noise when accelerating), and on average it is slower to get past the 210 mark on hard duty. I don't have any empirical measurements but it is doing something.
Moving more air through the bay helps while the vehicle is operating, and keeping overall temperatures lower helps. But heat soak typically occurs after parking when all the underhood heat, especially from the exhaust system, rises and collects around the intake manifold and injectors. Hood vents, fuel system insulation kits, and custom time-delay relays to run the e-fan are solutions I have heard about.
@@derekdelfino2974 it works well for low slow crawling, but the temp is starting to push hard at the 215 mark on hot, high-altitude days with the AC running. I see mud appearing in the cooling system again, so I probably need to flush thoroughly and then make sure there's no tap water left in the system when I refill the coolant.
@@aaronvienot I keep getting mud in mine as well. All new cooling system, brown sludge and I don't take mine off road. It really plays havoc with the cooling. Hood vents did not work either. The jeep will do fine for the most part unless I put the AC on, then it will push 220+
@@derekdelfino2974 last iron block engine I had that kept doing that, I ran BG Products hot cooling system flush, cleaned and refilled, ran it a month, still had mud swirls under the radiator cap. Did it again, second time held and it stayed clean after that. Probably be my next step on the XJ, might work for you as well?
@@aaronvienot I will look into that, I was using the CLR rust remover but I am not so sure its really "rust" I am sure that will help with temps but I must have something else going on. I thought about putting a small push fan in front of the condenser but from some research it appear it could impede air flow at higher speeds. When you ran the BG cleaner did you just use hose water? How long did you run it in your system before flushing? Thank you!
@@derekdelfino2974 instructions on the bottle have you drain enough coolant to add in the bottle, close it up, then run a hot idle for a minimum time. Then drain, flush, and refill clean with 50/50.
![Jeep Cherokee: Manual Swap - Everything You Need to Know ['97-'01 XJ] AW4 to AX-15 or NV3550](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/h138NSGFI7o/mqdefault.jpg)
A tip of advice from someone that has the zj fan, you can install the fan, clutch, and shroud all at once. You just hold the fan in its shroud position as you drop it all in and then you don't have to cut the shroud up.
@@samquintrall3740True. Only downside is the whole works has to come back out when working on some other front end components, or the front end clip has to be disconnected and brought forward.
@aaronvienot yep it is a downside 😅 had to do it a few times.
splendid work Aaron,always good to watch your xj mod videos...keep it up my friend.
Hah I just did the "HD" fan clutch for my '97. Used the 2.5L fan clutch which was on clearance from RockAuto.
Did this and the motor torqued over and the clutch took out the radiator, I went original new xj clutch new mishimoto rad and a mishimoto 10 inch race line fan on a switch I have no issues out here in phx az
@@2dollarrip571 take a long look at your radiator and engine mounts, if you haven't done that yet. Usually when the engine moves that much, they're done.
Aaron you ROCK. Can you do a mod on the electric fan using a timer relay on a switch but not taping into the factory relay?
It's been done by others, for example to reduce vapor lock by running the fan for a minute after ignition shut off. Unfortunately it's not on my short list right now.
@aaronvienot Understood, I just really like your style and I trust you.
Great job
Great video as always. Any notes/observations regarding operating temp following the clutch fan upgrade?
It's louder as expected (more woooooOOOO noise when accelerating), and on average it is slower to get past the 210 mark on hard duty. I don't have any empirical measurements but it is doing something.
Thanks and nice no glove/glove jump cut at 18.21! We're paying attention. 😆
You think the zj fan clutch upgrade would help with heat soak?
Moving more air through the bay helps while the vehicle is operating, and keeping overall temperatures lower helps. But heat soak typically occurs after parking when all the underhood heat, especially from the exhaust system, rises and collects around the intake manifold and injectors. Hood vents, fuel system insulation kits, and custom time-delay relays to run the e-fan are solutions I have heard about.
How's it performing so far?
@@derekdelfino2974 it works well for low slow crawling, but the temp is starting to push hard at the 215 mark on hot, high-altitude days with the AC running. I see mud appearing in the cooling system again, so I probably need to flush thoroughly and then make sure there's no tap water left in the system when I refill the coolant.
@@aaronvienot I keep getting mud in mine as well. All new cooling system, brown sludge and I don't take mine off road. It really plays havoc with the cooling. Hood vents did not work either. The jeep will do fine for the most part unless I put the AC on, then it will push 220+
@@derekdelfino2974 last iron block engine I had that kept doing that, I ran BG Products hot cooling system flush, cleaned and refilled, ran it a month, still had mud swirls under the radiator cap. Did it again, second time held and it stayed clean after that. Probably be my next step on the XJ, might work for you as well?
@@aaronvienot I will look into that, I was using the CLR rust remover but I am not so sure its really "rust" I am sure that will help with temps but I must have something else going on. I thought about putting a small push fan in front of the condenser but from some research it appear it could impede air flow at higher speeds. When you ran the BG cleaner did you just use hose water? How long did you run it in your system before flushing? Thank you!
@@derekdelfino2974 instructions on the bottle have you drain enough coolant to add in the bottle, close it up, then run a hot idle for a minimum time. Then drain, flush, and refill clean with 50/50.