Ever hear of a heavy spring kit for the P320? Many people with Glocks buy the 8lb connector, because they think it makes the gun safer. Me personally, I like the 8lb, because it's more like a single action (with a defined wall)... and some people even throw in the crazy "NY Trigger" springs that are like 13lbs or something like that. Nothing like that exists for the P320 or P265 though and I wish they did. I'm sure many people do too. I'm just surprised I haven't been able to find anything like that anywhere.
No, I don't believe there is anything available that I'm aware of. Off hand I'd say increased power sear springs could be a candidate to achieve this but not sure there would be enough interest for companies to invest in that direction. There also might not be enough room on the sear and sear housing to allow it as well.
You can leave it at the stock pull weight by not installing the reduced power striker safety spring. I leave most of my P365s at the higher pull weight but still reduce travel and clean up the break.
It's not necessary but polishing the sear face can sometimes help get a cleaner break as well. Polishing the striker is definitely recommended though for a crisp break.
Hello and thank you for this video! It is impossible for me in France to order this kit, do you know where I could order it because I am really very interested! Thanks in advance for the answer
I absolutely love my 320’s but I must say this is where Glock wins,simplicity,there just isn’t a million tiny ass lil parts,for that it can’t be beat 🤔🤔
Ever have a trigger work fine with the magazine in... but not when there's no magazine in the gun? (because the magazine pushes the slide upward, which helps disengage the striker/sear). Is there a way to fix that? A way to "tighten" the rails, so the slide don't have so much up/down travel when there's a mag in it or not? Have seen P320's that function perfectly when there's a magazine in the gun... but if it's dry fired with no magazine, the trigger will go all the way back and have to be pulled a little harder to disengage the sear. I know that you could add a little more over-travel to the trigger to fix the trigger, but there's still the problem that the trigger is different when there's a magazine in the gun compared to when there's no magazine in the gun, because of the slide having excessive up/down movement. (The rails on the FCU are thinner than the rails/grooves in the slide that they go into).
As you noted this is due to the slide to frame slop and overtravel adjustment. Adding the additional overtravel necessary for a clean break without the slide in is what we suggest. The gun in most every reasonable situations will be live fired with a mag inserted. The upward pressure on the slide from the slide catch with an empty mag will make the gun perform almost identical to when rounds are still loaded in the mag. As long as a mag is in the gun the trigger should be consistent first to last shot. We still suggest setting over travel for a clean break while pushing the slide down into the frame. That's worried there won't be any hang up that could cause hesitation in the break. When using a properly selected sear control spring from our kit, the break and reset distance is so short there really isn't a penalty in doing so. The wall to break/reset distance is usually around 1/16 inch with our kit when properly adjusted.
![เปิดบ้าน โคตรสวย ป๋องกพล รู้จักตั้งนาน เพิ่งรู้ว่ารวย!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tmgCF_2HfYI/mqdefault.jpg)
Ever hear of a heavy spring kit for the P320? Many people with Glocks buy the 8lb connector, because they think it makes the gun safer. Me personally, I like the 8lb, because it's more like a single action (with a defined wall)... and some people even throw in the crazy "NY Trigger" springs that are like 13lbs or something like that. Nothing like that exists for the P320 or P265 though and I wish they did. I'm sure many people do too. I'm just surprised I haven't been able to find anything like that anywhere.
No, I don't believe there is anything available that I'm aware of. Off hand I'd say increased power sear springs could be a candidate to achieve this but not sure there would be enough interest for companies to invest in that direction. There also might not be enough room on the sear and sear housing to allow it as well.
nice! what's the trigger break lb on this configuration? sub 2lbs?
The configuration in the video on this gun was just under 3.25#
If you use the Sig skeletonized trigger, it can be as low as 2#
Man that seems kinda light. Would this be form comp. For duty or ccw this seems dangerous. Here Iam looking for a heavier trigger for these lol.
You can leave it at the stock pull weight by not installing the reduced power striker safety spring. I leave most of my P365s at the higher pull weight but still reduce travel and clean up the break.
@@tacticaltriggerllc thank you for the clarity. Appreciate you taking the time to respond.
Would you recommend polishing any other FCU parts?
It's not necessary but polishing the sear face can sometimes help get a cleaner break as well. Polishing the striker is definitely recommended though for a crisp break.
Hello and thank you for this video!
It is impossible for me in France to order this kit, do you know where I could order it because I am really very interested!
Thanks in advance for the answer
We only ship within the USA to avoid dealing with import and export restrictions.
@@tacticaltriggerllc ok thanks for the response !
I absolutely love my 320’s but I must say this is where Glock wins,simplicity,there just isn’t a million tiny ass lil parts,for that it can’t be beat 🤔🤔
Ever have a trigger work fine with the magazine in... but not when there's no magazine in the gun? (because the magazine pushes the slide upward, which helps disengage the striker/sear). Is there a way to fix that? A way to "tighten" the rails, so the slide don't have so much up/down travel when there's a mag in it or not? Have seen P320's that function perfectly when there's a magazine in the gun... but if it's dry fired with no magazine, the trigger will go all the way back and have to be pulled a little harder to disengage the sear.
I know that you could add a little more over-travel to the trigger to fix the trigger, but there's still the problem that the trigger is different when there's a magazine in the gun compared to when there's no magazine in the gun, because of the slide having excessive up/down movement. (The rails on the FCU are thinner than the rails/grooves in the slide that they go into).
As you noted this is due to the slide to frame slop and overtravel adjustment. Adding the additional overtravel necessary for a clean break without the slide in is what we suggest. The gun in most every reasonable situations will be live fired with a mag inserted. The upward pressure on the slide from the slide catch with an empty mag will make the gun perform almost identical to when rounds are still loaded in the mag. As long as a mag is in the gun the trigger should be consistent first to last shot. We still suggest setting over travel for a clean break while pushing the slide down into the frame. That's worried there won't be any hang up that could cause hesitation in the break. When using a properly selected sear control spring from our kit, the break and reset distance is so short there really isn't a penalty in doing so. The wall to break/reset distance is usually around 1/16 inch with our kit when properly adjusted.