LB7 Duramax High Flow Manifold and Up Pipe Install
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- Comprehensive instruction on replacing the restrictive OEM Manifolds and Up Pipes for bigger, high flow pieces!
Instagram: @raberle_lb7
Facebook: Reid Aberle
Email: raberle2@gmail.com
Feel free to get ahold of me for any questions/business inquiries!
2001 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD LB7 Duramax
Here is a list of everything done to this truck to date:
Engine:
Headgaskets/ARP Studs
Stock Injectors
DuramaxTuner Built Trans Tuning
HSP Diesel 3"Hot/Cold Side Piping
HSP Diesel 4" Fabbed Intake
DRP 3.5" Intake Horn
WCFab 3" Ybridge
LML Drivers Side Exhaust Manifold
Welded Water Pump
Rebuilt Port/Polished Turbo
HSP Diesel Corner Mount Coolant Reservoir
HSP Diesel Billet Thermostat Cross over pipe
Fuel:
Fass Titanium 150 Lift Pump
1/2" Fuel line running directly to 1/2" inlet fitting on LBZ CP3 and FPR
BD Sump Kit
FPRV Block Off Kit
Transmission/Transfercase:
Built Transmission with Suncoast Gmax 5 Kit and Suncoast 1056 TD Converter
Trans Tuning for Defuel shutoff and 2ng Gear launch
Rebuilt transfercase with Pump Rub Kit
5/8" trans cooler lines
TCase Brace and new Transmission mounts
Allison Deep Pan/Filter Kit
Steering:
PPE Pitman/Idler Arm Braces and new Pitman/Idler Arms
Rare Parts G2 Tie Rods
Empire Stainless Steel Straight Centerlink
Redhead Steering Gearbox
Performance Steering Products Power Steering Pump
Bilstein Steering Dampner
Suspension:
HSP Diesel 70" Traction Bars
Fox 2.0 Front Shocks
Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks
All new Timken Wheel bearings
Cognito Upper Control Arms
Kryptonite Swaybar Links
Hellwig Rear Swaybar
New GM front bumpstops
MA Rear Suspension Stops
Detroit Trutrac/New axle seals and bearings in rear axle
Exhaust:
3" MBRP Downpipe
5" Magnaflow Straight Pipe
DMAXStore MaxFlow Manifolds & Up Pipes
Wheels/Tires:
Gear Big Block 725BM 20x12 -44 Wheels
305/50/R20 Toyo Proxes
1.5" Spacers in rear
I've stripped my '03 to the bare cab and painted it two times at my body shop, I bumped the front wheeling and had to remove the front sheetmetal. I can pull the clip in an hour or so. It's so worth it with all that out of the way. Makes it magnitudes easier. The fuse box on the ds is a pia, but still worth it.
Great video,no swearing!
Love the build brother
Props to you! I just had a manifold put on my Evo x and they broke all the studs on the manifold going to the turbo. That's exactly why I let someone else fight it. :)
They are definitely a danger point!! Thats why I brought it up like 4 times in this video haha been there done that. Luckily I was swapping out the turbo that first time I broke them loose or else I would've been in trouble.
evan hale all you gotta do is use a lot of heat
@@slow6.6 ya I even soaked them in kroil for weeks before. The cars got 190000 miles and salty roads
evan hale my trucks got 250,000 and runs in the salt every winter
Enjoyed your content..Good job!!
Hi. Nice. Is there a follow up review vid?
I like your video, first time seeing your channel. I`ll be doing my lbz and I`m just watching as many as I can. In your opening you had a shot of the truck on a dyno, did you take a small percentage off for going down hill?
No I did not, I would assume that is built in to the calibration of the dyno itself if it is a necessity, though I’ve never heard of that personally.
I just thank the lb7 gmc 2500hd gods for my 3in body lift. 😂
Great video. Im about to do mine plus the up pipes and new tubine. Where did u get that nice topside creeper
As far as I know you can only get them online, I actually got this one as a gift years ago.
I have a 2002 LB7 extended cab that I am replacing the downpipe, up pipes and manifolds with PPE high flow manifolds up pipes and PPE 3" downpipe. I have everything re-installed except for the downpipe which I cannot figure out anyway to get it in from the top. All the videos that I find online that actually show the downpipe getting installed are on a standard cab or a crew cab. I am starting to think that the extended cab engine bay is slightly smaller. Since your truck is an extended cab I was hoping that you might have some suggestions, Thanks for help.
Normally I will install the downpipe first from the bottom on the passenger side, then let it rest against the fire wall out of the way while I install the uppipes. Then bolt the downpipe in position last.
I figured that trick out after this video. It is possible to get the downpipe in from the top but it’s extremely tight, much easier to do it first before the passenger side uppipe.
Curious how on the steering side they made the stock one so flat and the ppe sticks out so much more ? Also LMM KIT says you need to change the transmission cooler line , not on yours I take it?
If I remember correctly they used the same manifolds on these engines as well as for the same engines in the medium duty trucks. In the medium duty trucks the steering column runs much closer to the manifold, hence they have the dimple for clearance. It was an unnecessary space reduction on the light duty trucks, which is why all aftermarket versions generally do not have that flow reducing feature.
Also no I don't believe you have the switch the cooler line, but I had aftermarket hydraulic style lines on that truck so I cannot say for sure. Wasn't an issue for me.
Is there a follow up vid? What did it improve? Any drawbacks?
What’s up with the banana at 10:10? 😀 Your fine video brings back unpleasant memories of my LB7 injector R&R from summer of ‘18 😟😟😟 I have an ‘03 CA truck with the EGR system.
Nice work!
I remember looking at that banana while I was editing the video and thinking to myself "what the world is that doing there?" Haha must have brought it out to snack on! I'm kicking around tackling injectors on this truck soon myself actually! They aren't shot yet but 45-60% overs would compliment the turbo nicely.
@@FixedVaneDuramax I’m confident SAC injectors are on the table for your consideration. Lots of good reports on the Duramax Forum.
Did you have an issue with the passenger up pipe interfering with your MBRP down pipe? My PPE up pipe now won’t let my MBRP down pipe tighten down on the turbo all the way
How do you like those fox shocks on your dmax? Would like to see a review on those for a 3/4 ton
I have liked them overall. If you already have a decent shock like a Bilstein 5100 I wouldn't spend the money to change over. some people say the Fox 2.0 runs a little stiffer, I havent gotten that feeling. Overall the ride quality of these trucks is still mostly a function of how much the torsion bars are cranked up more than anything (at least in my opinion)
Thanks Reid!!!
Let’s just say a bolt or stud breaks changing the up-pipe or down-pipe. What is the method to repair this problem?
Best way I know how is just like removing any other broken bolt or stud. Once the downpipe/up pipe is removed, if there is any exposed bolt try and weld a nut to it and turn it out. Or use an EZ Out if its broke off flush to the surface. I would assume its a heck of a lot easier at that point to pull the turbo and either do remove the broke bolt on a workbench, or just upgrade/replace the turbo.
does this change the sound?
How big of a difference did you notice driving?
Its noticeable, the exahust is a little lower and throatier, turbo spools a little faster I feel like, and the truck is less smokey on a hard pull. Id like to say I feel a slight power difference, but only a dragstrip or dyno could truly tell.
How have you liked them long-term now? What are your thoughts on the log style D-max store manifolds and the quality?
I have no complaints with them as of now, I checked them over a few weeks ago when the trans was out to make sure everything was still in good shape. I've been told the ceramic coating wears off as well, but the only regret I have is that they are surface rusted, but I have blankets over them so you can't really tell that much.
As far as the log style go, I really can't say. Dmaxstore doesn't really distinguish well between the log style and the full new style but they are the same price I believe. As far as quality everyone says that pro fab is the best, but I have no complaints on my dmaxstore set as of yet.
@@FixedVaneDuramax Gotcha appreciate the advice and input on these. Great video by the way! Thinking of giving them a shot as well.
What are the chances of trying to loosen the up pipe turbo bolts while the truck is hot
You can, it’ll just suck because its hot and not enjoyable to work around. I would spray the bolts down good with wd40 or pb blaster while its warm, then loosen them up once its cooled.
i have a 2003 LB7 how do you fit the exhaust manifold gasket between the dipstick is there a trick to it i have my pass side manifold off thank you
Can you clarify what your asking?
@@FixedVaneDuramax i got it in there had to loosen the dipstick bolt i am new to all of this thank you your videos helped me out a lot
Did you think about getting the exhaust manifold ceramic coated instead of the blankets?
Yes I did, I would probably have it done as well as get the blanket if I were to do it again. However I have been told that the ceramic really doesnt hold up well either, one sled pull or a day at the dragstrip and it will be burned off and be no better off than raw.
I had the pedestal and downpipe ceramic coated when I installed the s467.7. the pedestal coating didn't last 6 months before it started cooking off. The diesels just run too hot imo
Did your hsp passenger side cooler pipe have trouble fitting up?
Yep. Is yours hitting your brake booster? Cut a half inch off the smaller side of the boot between the turbo and the pipe and push the pipe/boot further onto the turbo outlet. Answer straight from HSP support I had the same issue way back when.
Did you say you hope we went to church? Why would I ever go there? But back to DURAMAX! :)
Captains vLogs Everyone is entitled to their own convictions. As for me and mine we serve God.
Interesting :)
@CaptainsvLogs shut the fuck up nobody asked dumbass
How are these still holding up? I see this is a year ago now. Looking at getting a set.
No complaints from me so far! I wish I would have had them ceramic coated but I've been told that even the ceramic doesn't hold up well. However I have heat blankets covering them so even the aesthetics still look decent.
Nice. I think I’ll order those then. Thanks for the feedback.
hey man do you have any tips for removing the stock downpipe for the first time? i can’t break the bolts for the life of me, did you soak them in PB blaster ?
Reese LB7 They can be truly awful when trying to break them loose for the first time. The best option is to soak them when the engine is still warm, then let them sit overnight. Then if you have a high torque impact that will fit behind the turbo that is the best. After that if you cant get them to break loose try the ratchet strap method. Put a socket and ratchet on the bolt, then run a ratchet strap down from the ratchet beside the transmission and around the torsion bars and connect to the ratcheting end in a loop. Crank on the ratcheting assembly to tighten the strap until it breaks the bolt loose. As a word of warning, this method is highly effective but you can break bolts this way. I broke 1 bolt doing it this way but thats how I broke loose all the bolts and studs for the downpipe and uppipes the first time. Luckily I was replacing the turbo so I did not care.
Fixed Vane Duramax yeah if i’m not able to get them off by soaking them over night and then breaking them loose with a just a ratchet i’ll wait till i get a new turbo lol, not worth the chance of messing it up
@@kylereese7124 I definitely agree, thats why I mentioned it multiple times in this video, its super easy to break these bolts off when trying to break them loose, if youre having to resort to extreme force to get them loose, be ready to pull the turbo.
Fixed Vane Duramax yeah glad i watched the video honestly, if i wouldn’t have then i would have tried everything till it either broke or came out haha
@@FixedVaneDuramax down pipe bolts came off for me with the ratchet straps method but I used another TH-cam video method. I used a combo wrench, attached one end of the ratchet strap to the end and the other to the front driver side fender brace. The fender brace is above the fuse box. It goes from the fire wall to the fender.
What was the trick to getting the middle bolt between the studs of?
For the manifolds or for the downpipe?
Fixed Vane Duramax for the downpipe
sound difference? lower egts?
mark williams I havent really got out and beat on it yet, I have done a few 55-120 pulls though, turbo seems to be more responsive in that scenario. I havent done any boosted launches to see if it helps spool up there yet. I wasnt watching my EGT gauge during the high speed pulls but just cruising at 70-75 on the interstate my EGTs are down about 50 degrees from where they were so Id like to think they are lower at full power as well. Sound difference is minimal, definitely a lower rumble at idle, couldn’t tell much of a difference at WOT. I hit 130mph in the truck which is didnt do before so something must be better🤣
How are they holding up?
heavykevy9 Pretty well, you can see that they are surface rusting on the exposed areas already. But talking with multiple guys who had theirs ceramic coated they told me that after a couple of high temperature pulls the ceramic is burned off anyways. All in all they have been great for the short time they have been on the truck.
What brand are they
Slow 6.6 These are Dmaxstore’s Max Flow set
Fixed Vane Duramax thanks man, so much better deal than PPE
Slow 6.6 They are definitely the best deal for the money, as long as they hold up!
Why is no one films the driver side? Everyone skips it and just shows the before and after
bc it’s the exact same as the passenger lol
Where did you get the studs you mention at 9:50?
th-cam.com/video/T9_qLseiY-I/w-d-xo.html
No need for the loctite