Thanks Rich! I have used this stuff in my motorcycle for the last 45,000 miles and I love it. Delo 400 15w 40 was my favorite for a while but in the last few years I'm on Rotella T4 or T5 but always 15w40. (next oil change is T6 to see how that feels) Tried some Delvac 5W40 once and the transmission hated it. Looking forward to seeing those other tests tomorrow!
Diesel engines aren't susceptible to low speed pre ignition but I feel like there's a reason why Motorcraft wanted some of that magnesium put in their versus the other diesel oil manufacturers that don't use any magnesium
Magnesium is supposedly a really good acid neutralizer specific to diesel engines. Thats why you find it in Diesel Oil its different with gasoline engines they almost never put magnesium in gas engine oil.
I just picked up some rotella T6 5w40 to put into my supercharged cobra I have no emission control or cats on the car so I like the higher zinc magnesium and phosphorus that T6 has over Mobil 1 5w30 I used to use. T6 also has high boron which I am aware boron is better anti wear than molybdenum. My question is what if I added molybdenum into the T6 5w30 would it make it even better?
I've been using 5w40 motorcraft in my 6.7 Powerstroke. Figured if Ford made it for their diesel it has to be the best for it. It's pricey too compared to others. After his review, not so sure it is the best now.
Love these videos! I'm in the process of looking to swap oils over in my workshop, and I'm looking at Shell Helix Ultra 5w-30 as the main oil. Have you seen or done any testing on this?
For sure. Robust oil. You can't judge an oil by the VOA TBN. They don't all go down at the same rate. You might have one that starts with 8 TBN and after 8k miles, has 2.5TBN. Then another oil may start with 12TBN and be at 2TBN after 6k miles. bitog has infinite UOA/VOAs to look at. I've read them for years. I'm a T6 5W-40 guy for most everything and Pennzoil Plat or Ultra Plat in most of my cars. Moving over to Pennzoil Plat High Mileage for one car that's has the GM 3800II and about 130k miles on it. It's already reducing the oil consumption. It did not have Pennzoil Plat from the start. Had a lot of Castrol GTX 10W-30 in it. Despite 3k mile oil changes, it didn't protect seals that well. But the high mileage oil is already reducing consumption fast. I prefer to run synthetic in everything. You can go 8k miles on practically any synthetic without issues in a car and still have room to go, I just don't like to go more than that. Then you get better cold starts and cold weather starting on top of it all. The base oils are better and the additives are USUALLY stronger add packs (more robust) and the TBN will last longer and fight off oxidation for far longer than conventional oil. It's not worth it to run a synthetic if you're gonna change it every 5k miles or anything unless it's 0W-30 because you live where it's -20 or more Fahrenheit all the time OR if you have a high performance car, you'll want synthetic. You'll also notice better fuel economy with synthetic. But since it costs more, you do want to get your money out of it... so get a good filter that will last 8-10k miles and run it 8-10k miles. Depends on engine, driving style, etc. Drive 3 miles a day? Then sure, I wouldn't run it 10k miles. But if you drive 30 miles to work and 30 miles back on the highway? 10k miles ain't nothing on a quality synthetic oil, honestly. Just need a quality filter that can also last that long. Purolator Boss is a top notch filter. However, I do like to run AC Delco in GM and Motorcraft in Ford for my filters and spark plugs.
But, yeah, generally, oil should be changed by 1 year regardless of miles. That T4 is probably good for 5k miles easy. Oils have improved and the old "3k miles oil change for conventional/6k miles for synthetic" is not true anymore.
@@FordBossMe I would go ahead in trying Oil Extreme in Engines and CVT's especially. It saves motorists Thousands of $.... From the car Manufacturers who use Lubricants of Low Quality. Such as Honda Fit/Jazz CVT Or BMW Mini CVT.... Just pour it in and the CVT will work as designed. Works everytime. Replacing problem CVT' s with a new unit is a thing of the past.
Boron is the good stuff man cant have enough of it. My personal ideal oil formulation would have 300-500ppm Born, ~1000ppm ZDDP cant really go higher these days anymore and thats enough for modern engines and as much calcium as it can have while keeping the ash at a reasonable level so probably around 2000ppm. Maybe go for magnesium instead if it was doe diesels and LSPI affected vehicles.
What are your thoughts on using Rotella T4 in a SBF 302 with a flat tappet cam? Engine is stock from 1985. Shell tech support said the T4 is OK to use. Curious as to what you think. I’ve been using Valvoline VR1.
@@matth5309I’d recommend T5 over T4. I run a 350 SBC with a factory flat tapper cam and it idles smoother and has a bit more power with T5 over T4. Gas mileage and oil pressure were also better with T5 over T4, and being in Texas, the T5 handles our heat better thanks to it being a synthetic blend.
Have you talked about shell rotella t6 5w30 multi vehicle oil yet? Its sn rated for gas engines too and I'd love to see what it ranks against other oils.
Whatever is in the library is what I have talked about if you don't see it in the library then I have not talked about it and no I have not talked about that one
I gotta wonder about liquimoly 5w40 leichtauf Liquimoly originally specializes in diesel oil. I am considering a diesel truck for some work applications but too many vehicles is a common concern.
NONE of these oils are 10000 mile oils. They get environmental credit for longer oil change intervals and cost of ownership stats go down woth longer pil changes. Those long oil changes aren't for you it's for them. L Watch Lake Speed for some info. He's a lubrication specialist
Im looking for a source for rotella t6 10w30 full synthetic, im on the eastcoast of Canada, i know its a newer product but anyone out there running it in canada? Where ya gettin it?
Would you advise using any of these diesel oils in a Windsor 302 with 135k on it? Personally I like the Rotella 15w40 cause this engine leaks oil from the pan.
Yeah to be honest with you a lot of people can say that there's cleaners in engine oils that will clean the inside of the engine but those of us that work on the oil side that actually help develop and look at what's in oil none of it actually does what they say it does it does not actually really clean the inside it just stops further deposits from Forming
Hi Rich I know this is nothing to do with your Oil. But I watched you and your friends on you’re Arod live Talk. What is Wrong with the GM/ Saab Epsilon Platform 2007. I apologise for going off subject. But I would appreciate your opinion my friend thanks. Steve Westmoreland 👨🏻🦳♿️🇬🇧🛠️🙏🏻❤️👍
@@FordBossMe Hi Rich I just got the impression that SAAB’s we’re not thought of as Good Cars by You Tech guys in the USA You know more than Me repairing them. Here in 🇬🇧 they are seen as a Very safe and Comfortable Car. I have owned my Saab 93 2.8 V6 Aero Convertible since I bought her in 2007. But I was a Electro Hydraulic Tech underground. So I appreciate and Respect your Guys opinions in your field . Thanks 🙏🏻 Rich and Bless you Man for keeping me Sane. Hearing the Wrench’s going makes me think I am still at it. I watch You and Ray everyday. Thanks. Steve Westmoreland.👨🏻🦳♿️🛠️🛠️🇬🇧❤️👍
There's a number of reasons why Molly can be corrosive to the internals of the engine based on how much copper and stuff is there and certain types of Molly don't work very well with the components of a diesel engine because of how everything reacts
some bike guys say that moly can cause wet clutches to slip, and some allison transmissions have wet clutches, so several diesel oils leave it out to be compatible with those clutches
Thanks very much FBM!!!! Appreciate the detectives work on the breakdown!
Thanks Rich! I have used this stuff in my motorcycle for the last 45,000 miles and I love it. Delo 400 15w 40 was my favorite for a while but in the last few years I'm on Rotella T4 or T5 but always 15w40. (next oil change is T6 to see how that feels) Tried some Delvac 5W40 once and the transmission hated it. Looking forward to seeing those other tests tomorrow!
Great info. Had to turn my volume up to 100 to hear/understand what you were saying.
I don't know what to tell you on my end it's fine, the issue is on your end
Ditto!
Diesel engines aren't susceptible to low speed pre ignition but I feel like there's a reason why Motorcraft wanted some of that magnesium put in their versus the other diesel oil manufacturers that don't use any magnesium
Magnesium is supposedly a really good acid neutralizer specific to diesel engines.
Thats why you find it in Diesel Oil its different with gasoline engines they almost never put magnesium in gas engine oil.
Thanks Rich!
I just picked up some rotella T6 5w40 to put into my supercharged cobra I have no emission control or cats on the car so I like the higher zinc magnesium and phosphorus that T6 has over Mobil 1 5w30 I used to use. T6 also has high boron which I am aware boron is better anti wear than molybdenum. My question is what if I added molybdenum into the T6 5w30 would it make it even better?
TX oil company, the best record for my diesels: TRIAX, PLENTY moly.
Thanks Rich.
Looking forward to part 2. Would like to see how hot shots oil stacks up. Might have to send some in.
It's up
I would like to see one
ford motorcraft 10w30 Diesel oil vs shell rotella t4 10w30 Diesel oil
Got anymore 10W-30 VOA Videos? This is great thank you!
I've been using 5w40 motorcraft in my 6.7 Powerstroke. Figured if Ford made it for their diesel it has to be the best for it. It's pricey too compared to others. After his review, not so sure it is the best now.
It's the bare minimum to keep the truck healthy is what it is
It is cheap at Walmart.
Love these videos! I'm in the process of looking to swap oils over in my workshop, and I'm looking at Shell Helix Ultra 5w-30 as the main oil. Have you seen or done any testing on this?
Not yet
Very interesting
😊🐶🐕👍🏼
Good morning Rich! Now to go watch the video! lol
Can't wait for the next video now, ya left me in suspense! lol Thanks for doing this for us Rich!!!
Is Rotella T4 Conv. good for more than 3 months if it’s driven less than 3k ? What would be a good timeframe (months) to change it out @ ?
For sure. Robust oil. You can't judge an oil by the VOA TBN. They don't all go down at the same rate. You might have one that starts with 8 TBN and after 8k miles, has 2.5TBN. Then another oil may start with 12TBN and be at 2TBN after 6k miles. bitog has infinite UOA/VOAs to look at. I've read them for years.
I'm a T6 5W-40 guy for most everything and Pennzoil Plat or Ultra Plat in most of my cars. Moving over to Pennzoil Plat High Mileage for one car that's has the GM 3800II and about 130k miles on it. It's already reducing the oil consumption. It did not have Pennzoil Plat from the start. Had a lot of Castrol GTX 10W-30 in it. Despite 3k mile oil changes, it didn't protect seals that well. But the high mileage oil is already reducing consumption fast.
I prefer to run synthetic in everything. You can go 8k miles on practically any synthetic without issues in a car and still have room to go, I just don't like to go more than that. Then you get better cold starts and cold weather starting on top of it all. The base oils are better and the additives are USUALLY stronger add packs (more robust) and the TBN will last longer and fight off oxidation for far longer than conventional oil.
It's not worth it to run a synthetic if you're gonna change it every 5k miles or anything unless it's 0W-30 because you live where it's -20 or more Fahrenheit all the time OR if you have a high performance car, you'll want synthetic.
You'll also notice better fuel economy with synthetic.
But since it costs more, you do want to get your money out of it... so get a good filter that will last 8-10k miles and run it 8-10k miles. Depends on engine, driving style, etc. Drive 3 miles a day? Then sure, I wouldn't run it 10k miles. But if you drive 30 miles to work and 30 miles back on the highway? 10k miles ain't nothing on a quality synthetic oil, honestly. Just need a quality filter that can also last that long. Purolator Boss is a top notch filter. However, I do like to run AC Delco in GM and Motorcraft in Ford for my filters and spark plugs.
But, yeah, generally, oil should be changed by 1 year regardless of miles. That T4 is probably good for 5k miles easy.
Oils have improved and the old "3k miles oil change for conventional/6k miles for synthetic" is not true anymore.
I would be running Oil Extreme Concentrate in those Oils.... Will make the TBN 20 +
With the diesel being Ultra low sulfur now we really don't need an extremely high TBN
@@FordBossMe I would go ahead in trying Oil Extreme in Engines and CVT's especially.
It saves motorists Thousands of $.... From the car Manufacturers who use Lubricants of Low Quality.
Such as Honda Fit/Jazz CVT
Or BMW Mini CVT.... Just pour it in and the CVT will work as designed.
Works everytime.
Replacing problem CVT' s with a new unit is a thing of the past.
can't find the second video with the oil that "stands out" link?
How many months is recommended to change Syntehtic blend diesel oil? Is it the same as regular engine oil 6months?
You might be able to go a little bit more but yeah it's the same recommendation
I would think maximum one year
Happy St Patrick’s day 🍀
Great video brother
Much appreciated
I'm impress of the T6. With 201 ppm of Boron, WOW. Nothing against Moly, but I will always take Boron over Moly. Thanks
There's a better one you'll see
Boron is the good stuff man cant have enough of it.
My personal ideal oil formulation would have 300-500ppm Born, ~1000ppm ZDDP cant really go higher these days anymore and thats enough for modern engines and as much calcium as it can have while keeping the ash at a reasonable level so probably around 2000ppm.
Maybe go for magnesium instead if it was doe diesels and LSPI affected vehicles.
What are your thoughts on using Rotella T4 in a SBF 302 with a flat tappet cam? Engine is stock from 1985. Shell tech support said the T4 is OK to use. Curious as to what you think. I’ve been using Valvoline VR1.
Your fine with t4
@@FordBossMe Thanks! The T4 is easier to find and cheaper. Gonna switch to it at my next oil change.
@@matth5309I’d recommend T5 over T4. I run a 350 SBC with a factory flat tapper cam and it idles smoother and has a bit more power with T5 over T4. Gas mileage and oil pressure were also better with T5 over T4, and being in Texas, the T5 handles our heat better thanks to it being a synthetic blend.
I run T6 5W-40 in my 86 F-150 5.0 EFI flat tappet cam. Have ran it for 8-10 years.
Wolf’s Head must be dual rated
Have you talked about shell rotella t6 5w30 multi vehicle oil yet? Its sn rated for gas engines too and I'd love to see what it ranks against other oils.
Whatever is in the library is what I have talked about if you don't see it in the library then I have not talked about it and no I have not talked about that one
I gotta wonder about liquimoly 5w40 leichtauf
Liquimoly originally specializes in diesel oil.
I am considering a diesel truck for some work applications but too many vehicles is a common concern.
NONE of these oils are 10000 mile oils. They get environmental credit for longer oil change intervals and cost of ownership stats go down woth longer pil changes.
Those long oil changes aren't for you it's for them. L
Watch Lake Speed for some info. He's a lubrication specialist
Check out vavoline premium blue extreme 5w40!!
I have it, about to test it
@@FordBossMe thanks!!!
Im looking for a source for rotella t6 10w30 full synthetic, im on the eastcoast of Canada, i know its a newer product but anyone out there running it in canada? Where ya gettin it?
Would you advise using any of these diesel oils in a Windsor 302 with 135k on it?
Personally I like the Rotella 15w40 cause this engine leaks oil from the pan.
Maybe just the regular wolf's head
Boron is better than moly
Valvoline premium blue restore 10w30 worked together and created with Cummins .oil has high cleaner to clean up worn dirty engine
Yeah to be honest with you a lot of people can say that there's cleaners in engine oils that will clean the inside of the engine but those of us that work on the oil side that actually help develop and look at what's in oil none of it actually does what they say it does it does not actually really clean the inside it just stops further deposits from Forming
Hi Rich I know this is nothing to do with your Oil. But I watched you and your friends on you’re Arod live Talk. What is Wrong with the GM/ Saab Epsilon Platform 2007. I apologise for going off subject. But I would appreciate your opinion my friend thanks. Steve Westmoreland 👨🏻🦳♿️🇬🇧🛠️🙏🏻❤️👍
What exactly are we wanting to talk about on this subject? I will entertain this
@@FordBossMe Hi Rich I just got the impression that SAAB’s we’re not thought of as Good Cars by You Tech guys in the USA You know more than Me repairing them. Here in 🇬🇧 they are seen as a Very safe and Comfortable Car. I have owned my Saab 93 2.8 V6 Aero Convertible since I bought her in 2007. But I was a Electro Hydraulic Tech underground. So I appreciate and Respect your Guys opinions in your field . Thanks 🙏🏻 Rich and Bless you Man for keeping me Sane. Hearing the Wrench’s going makes me think I am still at it. I watch You and Ray everyday. Thanks. Steve Westmoreland.👨🏻🦳♿️🛠️🛠️🇬🇧❤️👍
do you know why they don't use molybdenum in diesel oil?
Did you not watch the video? Come on don't waste my time
There's a number of reasons why Molly can be corrosive to the internals of the engine based on how much copper and stuff is there and certain types of Molly don't work very well with the components of a diesel engine because of how everything reacts
@@FordBossMe thanks for the explanation it is greatly appreciated
Lubegard heavy-duty has nano type molley mix well doesn't separate from oil
some bike guys say that moly can cause wet clutches to slip, and some allison transmissions have wet clutches, so several diesel oils leave it out to be compatible with those clutches