Fox 36 GRIP2 Beginners Guide Setup
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ธ.ค. 2023
- Fox 36 Full setup guide, Grip 2 damper can be a handful so watch this video
Amazon list of stuff to setup Fox forks amzn.to/3RNMUpu
Tools you could use to help setup\
digital shock pump amzn.to/3VkDymY
Top cap tool amzn.to/3yYczGb
Multi top cap tool amzn.to/4bYF70W
Measure tool amzn.to/3xhNhCB
Shock wiz ebay.us/dfeU9p
Allen keys that do not strip bolts : amzn.to/3N7GFfe - กีฬา
Step 1: inflate to recommended psi for weight. Step 2: bounce fork and close rebound until fork no longer undulates after bouncing it. Step 3: close high speed compression. Step 4: close low speed compression then back it out three clicks. Adjust low speed according to hand feel and bike balance… stiff hands then back out low speed a click. Weight too forward, add a click of low speed. Step 6: buy an Ohlins fork.
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😅😆🤣 12/10!
Thank you for doing this video as I am very much the same weight as you are,and like riding blue flowy trails I'm 56 now and love my job,so no major injuries wanted,even though I am pretty fit for my age,😄
Only score is if you have fun!!!!!
I love this guy!
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Great video
Thanks glad to help .
The notched 32mm socket is definitely the correct answer here. You can complain and lament over the fact that the Fox 36 is stiff as hell, but you just really need to take out all the volume spacers you don't need. If you wanna monster truck through chunder but aren't a dirt jumper, then take out a token. If you like doing big hits, then add a token. But to be honest? Fox fucked up hy not including the socket in the first place. Any part that needs to be adjusted for a good tune needs to have its necessary tools right out of the box.
I actually ordered 3 tokens for the fork when I ordered a token kit for the float X rear because my impression was that I would need to add tokens up front as well. Anyhow, I now got 4 tokens for the fork that I most likely never will need.
Unior has a fairly inexpensive flat 32mm socket that I ordered because I did not have any 3/8" ratchets so their 1/2" was fine for me.
@@a8f235 nice find! I bought my Fox socket from Amazon. As for the spacers, even though I don't own a Norco, I used their Ride Aligned online tuning platform to get a baseline tune for my bike. It said that I only needed 1 spacer for my weight, and that's what I've run ever since. I still haven't unnecessarily bottomed out the fork, and when I do bottom it out, it's on trail features that require it.
2:57 You should see if you can pull up on your fork and re measure. Sometimes if you release all your air pressure.. the negative air chamber still contains pressure and doesn't allow the fork to fully extend. You should be able to measure the full 160mm. The bump stop is for 160mm+ or whatever your fork is set to for its travel.
It’s a bump stop I double them up before to make it more plush takes another 10 mm travel
You should have mentioned removing the air before checking tokens. A newbie could have their eye out.
I think that in most cases on modern forks, even if you remove the top cap as quickly as possible, it shouldn’t “explode off” but will release the air quickly
@@LDiazMTB please upload a video of you doing just that 🤣
Good point forgot that , I’ll try open it with air in 😆
@@markcosens1I think seth from berm peak already did that in a MTB myths video
I'm about 185lbs fully geared and according to Fox's chart that is between 89 to 94 PSI somewhere. If I am to get 20% sag I end up at 79PSI. However, they do actually give some guidelines where they write this: *_Based on our research and feedback we have found that running two or three rows up the chart will give most riders in most conditions a more balanced feeling suspension._*
So, I'm going to run with 79PSI and try the recommended rebound settings, and leave the compression fully open for now. I've removed the one token that was in mine, and bumped up the tokens slightly in the Float X rear.
I've only jumped a bit up and down on tarmac now and my impression is that it overall feel a bit on the fast side, but I need to get out on the trails to get it dialed for its intended purpose.
To be continued...
I am 230 lbs geared up on a 58 lb bike, zero tokens zero compresison and a .7 float X spacer, 20% sag fork 30% shock 2 clicks from full slow fork and #4 on float X , unless your doing 30 foot jumps those setting should be to high for you
@@OtterMTBtech First impressions after my first ride is that it is firm in the first part of the travel yet very smooth once you do some bigger hits. I was expecting more of the opposite. It's also nowhere near bottoming out or any of that(probably used 70% of full travel) which it shouldn't given I do just normal trailriding and no Red Bull Hardline stuff.
Rebound LSR/HSR: 8 / 4 in from fully open
Compression LSC/HSC: 5 / 2 in from fully open
These were the recommended settings for my bike and my weight. I'll try backing off on the compression as this seems to me to be the problem for now. I'll remove all the LSC and add 1 HSC to begin with so the rocky and bumpy trails I ride may feel a bit less harsh.
EDIT: Yup, now it feels more like a plow machine so that definitely helped. Maybe just add 1 click of LSC, but other than that it felt way better.
I have now done a full bracketing procedure of both front and rear of my bike after I've now landed on the token amount. After LSR/HSR was dialed on the fork I tried playing a bit with the compression, but I see now that once the rebound is at the exact spot you personally like, that alone made me *_NOT_* like a faster compression. I have heard that you can often think you need to tweak your compression settings, when it's actually the rebound settings that is the problem, and that did actually apply to me. I had to go 1 slower on both LSR and HSR and that together with the removal of the token fixed the harshness for me. When I tried to open up the compression settings it just felt like mush to me, so I did not like it.
I got LSC/HSC: 4 / 2(in from fully open) which is 1 step faster LSC than recommended which I feel helped to just break the stiction in the beginning of the travel, but I did not like adjusting anything more than that.
So after one broken shock pump, 2 token kits(first one was wrong) 3 extra tokens for the shock(because I assumed I needed them) I am now at:
Fork: 0 tokens(1 stock) and recommended 20% sag and recommended rebound and compression settings besides 1 step faster LSC.
Shock(Float X): Stock factory tune 0.7 tokens and recommended 30% sag and recommended rebound and compression.
This tells me that the recommended settings must be pretty ok, I just did not know beforehand because I had never dived into this at all. I did not know what good was or what bad was. What can it feel like and how should it not feel like.
Doing a bracketing procedure took very little time to be honest, and for me I thought first you need compression fully open while tweaking the rebound, but that just made no sense to me while I tried. After just applying recommended settings for rebound and compression, and then start the bracketing procedure, it made sense right away.
All of this has also made me understand that no setup will work great for every situation, and riding style and so on, so it's always going to be a compromise no matter.
Dang, i weigh the same as you (also on a e bike)and im running the fox e36 and the e36 runs thicker stanchions, so it has a fox34 internals including volume spacers.
Im running 3 volume spacers, 13 clicks of low speed compression and 5 clicks of high speed.
Yesterday i hit a 6-7 foot drop to flat and still bottomed out but not that bad.
My zeb with the charger 3. I run very little damping and zero zolume spacers.
I may have to go through the fox again and try to run high air pressure again and try and lower volume spacers and damping.
Idk , the zeb seems far superior to me .
So, something is up here. The fork in video was 2022 36. Wide open compression no token.
I have Z1 Ebike chassis which just has a thicker crown, not stanchions. And I’m going up to 3 tokens.
Not sure what’s going on.
What fork what year model travel?
@@OtterMTBtech I can get the serial, but I'm pretty sure it's a 2021 e optimized 36 fork with 160mm of travel. The stanchions are supposed to be 1mm thicker so they have to use the fox 34. I purchased it brand new, local bike shop ordered it for me.
Wouldn't the HSC affect the friction on small consecutive bumps and the LSC affect the friction on big hits?
Don’t over think it. Hsc is bottom out control mostly if your advanced enough to use it else where this video is not relevant
I weigh exactly the same as you haha, are you running no tokens at the moment? I like hitting some big jumps/ drops and feel like I need a bit of a ramp up (tokens) otherwise I'd be bottoming out a fair bit... however I'm going to try your advice and go from there, what are you currently running on the grip 2??
There is no right answer. It will feel better if you can get away with less or no tokens. Currently I’m on 38 grip 2 and have 3 tokens and 3 high speed clicks. The 36 grip 2 had zero tokens and zero high speed compression.
How come the difference between fox 38 and 36 in terms of tokens and compression? Can u do a setup video on fox 38?
@@OtterMTBtech At 8:46 the O-ring shows it had been at or was close to bottoming out. The landing a few seconds later was maybe 8 mm away. I think at least one token was in order on your 36, probably more.
A little confused about the compression part, what are you looking for on high speed?
It prevents bottom outs is the simple answer , when you get more advanced it can help other areas
I flattened a socket, tbh I only knew about it because Reddit 😂
"choppy rickshox" :D RS is actually much smoother in my experience...
Never
I’m off the chart when it comes to psi settings so where the fook do I start? 🤣🤣
Start with the setup guide from fox
@@OtterMTBtech-No base line chart for my weight??
Pump it and measure the sag
Never understood the whole gold fork tube thing. Women love to ware gold to attract the eyes of men. Are men putting gold on their bikes to attract the eyes of men? I mean I would never put something gold on my car, why would I put gold on my bike? I guess I should just put it down to don't ask , don't tell thing.....
Bro, its like chrome door handles from Autozone. FLEX. Inside the fork is what counts for sure.
@@OtterMTBtech then get the performance elite.....same guts, no gold, less money.
@onehandwashestheother The Kashima from fox is bunch of BS.....its yellow/gold anodizing. Tell you what, go to any big high dollar motor sport event and look at their suspensions....see any Kashima? nope, they will wrap the whole engine bay with gold to reflect heat but there is no Kashima to make the suspension work better. I worked in a company that did its own anodizing, I showed a fox fork to the head plater that had been working in a company that did work for NASA. He explained that the prep that is needed to do a proper Kashima coating on 6000 or 7000 alloy tubing costs about 5 times the cost of a fork . it involves A number of chemical baths to make the Alloy rough enough to pile a ton of the coating.....the stuff on a fox fork is not a real Kashima coating, it just kinda looks like it.
i agree with you
You should check out their newest lineup and have a heart attack lol Now the whole fork is just gold 😅
all this nonsense just i like to set and forget
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