"Propane furnace off amazon", this is another reason I like this channel. I didn't know I could get that on amazon. It just fills my head with stupid ideas. lol
If you plan on getting into smelting like I did, then I highly recommend taking a loot at Devil Forge as well. A little more expensive, but the quality has been well worth it so far.
The voids in the copper are due (in a big part) to the fact that molten copper has a high affinity for oxygen, which dissolves into the melt from the atmosphere present in the gas furnace. You can solve this by taking a little 30mm length of 12 mm copper pipe crimped at one end and filled with Ca(OCl)2 on a length of stiff iron wire and plunging this to the bottom of the melt immediately before pouring. This gives off chlorine which sparges the dissolved oxygen out of the melt. Worked wonders when I used this trick.
I finally found someone who understands me. I also built my own CNC mill and it cost a lot (and worked poorly). Now I'm putting even more money into it and hoping it will be different
Git gud, scrub. Best advice I can provide, unfortunately... Ohh, and make sure your rig is as rigid as possible, overbuild it up the yin yang, rigidity is everything in a milling machine. Also ensure that backlash is minimized as well, a couple tenths of slop at the spindle can equate to several thou at the tip of the cutter. If you can't build heavier then build harder, the hardness of your supports will decrease flex and backlash, consider heat treating all the components of the frame if possible (use a medium carbon alloy, something you can heat treat to 40-45 Rockwell). Also make sure your drive components aren't underpowered or sloppy, use baller ballscrews instead of belts and strong servomotors, overbuild everything. And do remember that the foundation you build upon is the most important part of the mill, if you build it on top of a wood desk remember that your machine is only as rigid as what it is mounted on. A 2" inch thick slab of steel or 4" thick slab of granite is infinitely better than a piece of 3/4" thick plywood. Rigidity, rigidity, and rigidity are your three guiding tenets when building a mill, remember that...
@@MikeOxolong @TheExplosiveGuy gave you good advice on the construction, but before you even draw 1 line in cad you have to answer the question: "Why do I need this?" A CNC milling machine is terribly expensive to build, works very slowly, requires expensive consumables and requires expensive materials for milling (check how much a piece of bronze or aluminum costs). So it's better to have a good reason to do it. If you want to create parts for your projects, buy (for the money you have to spend on building a milling machine you can easily buy a good model) or build a 3D printer. It is faster, cheaper, can do more, and works on relatively cheap materials. If you need more durable parts, don't mess with metal, just print them bigger. If you want to build your CNC machine anyway, design it with ease of use in mind (how you attach the part, how long it takes to start, how the tools are inserted). I know it sounds obvious, but you really don't want to spend a lot of money on a machine that is a pain to use. A CNC milling machine is not a machine that can work without CONTINUOUS supervision and the process of starting and preparing the machine can take ~45 minutes, the program can take 2/3 hours (if there is a large detail), each manual tool change + recalibration takes at least 10 minutes and at the very end it may turn out that it failed. A CNC milling machine can very easily damage itself, so it must be constantly monitored during this time
It's actually the hydrocarbons reducing the CuO back to Cu metal in the torch flame, it's not necessarily just because of the heat. There's a redox reaction going on too. You can see this by first heating the CuO a little bit then cutting the flame and then you can just use the unburning hydrocarbon and you can see it will quickly reduce the hot CuO back to Cu at a much lower temperature.
Thank you, that was my understanding too. And which is why it immediately turns black again as soon as he removes the flame - not after cooling down. And also why it only reduces to cooper exactly where the flame is, regardless of temperature, despite it conducting heat so well.
This works even better when you dunk the hot black copper in ethanol. The black copper oxide then instantly gets reduced back to red copper metal - and the ethanol gets oxidised to ethanal, which has a distinct smell (ripe apples).
copper is suprisungly hard to mill - you need sharp tools, correct speeds and coolant. Btw. somebody convinced google ai that "full cream milk" is a good coolant :)
@@lrmackmcbride7498 The glue in this example was specifically mentioned to be PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) glue. It is considered "non toxic", but is absolutely not considered "food grade".
If you want another rabbit hole of reducing copper sulfate into solid, useful parts, try DC-biased AC electrodeposition. There's very little literature on the topic, but if you fine-tune the parameters (I'd start at a DC bias of 1V with an AC waveform of 2V above and below that, 60Hz) you can basically 3D print the deposited copper into any shape you want by moving the "anode" around the conductive graphite bottom plate. The close proximity of the electrode (1-2mm) and reverse plating during that part of the cycle means you get solid, useful parts instead of flaky copper deposits that would occur with normal DC electroplating. If you have a fancy electric signal generator, you could use that, but I've found that just using one of those AC/DC wall adapters with the circular plugs (that cheap appliances use for charging) works; if you've got a spare one (since you have to cut the head off it and separate the wires) in the right voltage/current levels. You might also be able to generate an appropriate waveform using audio software and running that signal to the electrodeposition wires instead of a speaker.
@user-yb5cn3np5q It still doesn't have a modern name because basically no one uses it or writes papers on it. It's super finicky, so if anyone foes use it they keep it in house
@@19Gacek89 I can't provide links because youtube often auto-ghosts comments containing links, but googling pulsed reverse current electrodeposition should get you in the right direction. No papers I've found talk about using it as a metal 3d printing technique, but it works for that from my (albeit limited) experience.
Ammonia gives also the complex ion, so it is tetraamminecopper(II) hydroxide. And in case of HCl, the white stuff is Cu(I)Cl and the blue is Cu(II)Cl2.
I've watched many many videos on the theme of "I built a CNC" and have always thought "yeah, but my CNC wouldn't be like this... my CNC would be 'challenged'"... now I've seen one closer to my best expectations. ;)
7:49 place your propane tank in a bucket filled with water. it will stabilize the temp of the tank and prevent freezing. i learned that one from years of running propane ovens at festivals lol
That information on patinas was really valuable for me. I really appreciate it. There’s lots of ways to finish metals and if you’re making stuff it can make the piece but it isn’t like a game guide where everything is written down
Not just the CNC dust maker. But freecad as well? Institutionalize this man! Jokes aside. Really awesome video! Copper is really one of the best metals out there. Soft enough to work with basic tools. But still hard enough for jewelry. And you get all sorts of neat colors from it.
@@stockwellengineeringhints3527 OpenCAD is functional, sure, but the people on the project are extremely set in their ways and don't prioritize ergonomics. Get a free hobbiest licence of Fusion 360 or a $50 a year licence for SolidWorks for comparison and you will be way more productive. I really wish I could like OpenCAD and would put up with the quirks but unfortunately the state of the leadership on that project make it a no-go for me.
You're one of the few channels where enough effort is put into the ad copy (and animations) that I'd rather sit through them and enjoy, rather than skipping ahead. Ahoy hoy, ye have fully captured my eyeballs.
Your joule thomson coolign series inspired me to make a cooling system of my own to try and collect and liquify the gaseous radon present in my basement.
I... Is that, safer? Like that? Like, it gets it outta the air at least, but then it's concentrated. But then it can be concentrated in a lead vessel. You gotta post about this somewhere I'm invested now
Sounds precisely sketchy enough that I would watch the crap out of a video series about the project. Just saying "liquid radon" out loud checks all the boxes for me.
How much radon do you expect there to be? The half-live is 4 days. You are not going to liquefy a microgram of that stuff, which is perhaps as much as there can be at any point in time. Let alone liquefying a visible quantity without dying.
@crackedemerald4930 It's a shame I can't post pictures of the ones I've done on these replies. The dendritic growth is largely dependent upon factors such as electrolyte concentration, distance between electrodes, voltage and current, they are generally random in nature, but some control is possible.
So starting from powder you are best off compressing it, ideally with a cold isostatic press but if you don't have one of those like I do you can use a hydraulic press and a pellet press die. You are right, flux helps a lot, I am sure you fired around the papers on this. Adding an ultrasonic probe to your tank will speed up the dissolving process a lot.
I want to commend the extreme puzzling factor of your DIY. Like, it's suspiciously useful-adjacent while at the same time usually seeming like a way to do something worse with extra steps. (No offsense intended). Truly the uncanny valley of maker youtube videos.
Copper sulphate electrolysis is also a way to digest base metals (especially Copper) from scrap electronics. Leaving gold in the waste. Possibly even in the form of gold foils.
@combycat Do you have a specific question? It's not particularly difficult. One does need an anode bag to retain the resulting foils. And an inert anode material. I used titanium foil. The copper will collect on the cathode, so starting with a copper wire, or plate makes sense.
With machining copper you have to brass over your cutting tools basically dulling them on purpose so that they don’t get sucked into the copper and no climb milling
I love metal work of all kinds, especially machining. And chemistry has always fascinated me(even though I don't really have much experience or knowledge about it). And apocalyptic humor is my jam, so this video checks all the boxes. ✅ ✅ ✅❤
After washing your powder, wash with very dilute HCl to remove oxide layer, filter, then wash with acetone to remove any water. Mix with a small amount of graphite powder. It will make it less reactive, act as a lubricant when cold pressing, then it is packed in carbon and sintered.
also the bubbles are dissolved oxygen. Melt it with a reducing flame (and pour under a reducing flame) and you wont get them. You can also add charcoal to the furnace to help too.
You could probably do a double displacement reaction with calcium nitrate and copper sulfate where the calcium will take sulfate and become insoluble leaving copper nitrate one of the few soluble salts of copper then reduce it in a furnace.
Im very familiar with CuSO4. Its used within refineries to concentrate and eventually smelt copper, gold, lead zinc and silver. After ores like these are crushed, ball milled and then heavily watered down, they mix xanthates, Copper sulfate and cyanide to help extract these metals out from the very thin mud to be bubbled out. This separates into what we call Concentrate and Tailings. Tailings is generally sent to a pond/dam to evaporate into paste which is sent back into underground mines for sections closed down while the concentrate is dried in a hyperbaric filter to be then added with limes and flux to be smelted. Lead/Zinc is then seperated at this point with other xanthates in a "Filter plant". The smelting process further removes any impurities as slag and the copper is then cast into anodes for electrolysis. In which CuSO4 is then used again to make very pure copper cathodes. These cathodes are then shipped directly to industrial customers. Search up Mt Isa or Mt Isa Mines, A Copper Gold mine linked with a sister Lead, Zinc Silver mine George Fisher. Raw ore is excavated and sent to the concentrator and blast furnaces on the surface. One of these most unique towns to exist in australia.
Copper is gummy as hell, so my recommendation is a two or three flute cutter, increase spindle speed, slow down feed. When I cut copper and I can't or don't want contaminants I use vegetable oil, in your case it would have to be flood cooling to flush the chips out. Neat process and it was fun to watch.
Copper can be electroplated onto 3-D printed parts. First electroless copper deposition is used to plate a thin layer, and then electroplating is used to thicken the layer.
If you want to patina copper, get a plastic bin. Put a cup of household ammonia in the bottom, and then the copper item in there. The ammonia fumes will turn it a nice black. Dont do it on thinwall stuff because of stress corrosion cracking, but for something like your cube it would work fine.
Molten copper readily dissolves hydrogen (in a reducing atmosphere) or oxygen (when oxidizing) -- both of which are readily available in a gas-fired furnace depending on condition, and which crashes out on freezing, hence the swiss-cheese ingots. Best practice is probably tune the flame for slightly oxidizing (the flame cone will look kind of purplish), to avoid hydrogen; then use a cover of crushed/powdered charcoal with the copper powder/melt, so oxides (and any free oxygen) get reduced to pure metal, directly on contact or in the resulting CO atmosphere at the surface. Brazing flux is a good start, to dissolve oxides -- but as you saw, it's rather runny and hard to pour clean metal with. A less aggressive flux or slag is desirable. Basically, you can take some crushed soda-lime glass, maybe a little borax to thin and activate it, then a pinch of clay (a source of alumina) to thicken it up. The resulting slag will float on top and spread out, covering the metal, but is sticky and viscous enough at pouring temperature to either stay stuck in the crucible, or to skim out with a hook or spoon before pouring. Cheers!
Thank you for your humerous & interesting videos, Mr Pirate. My comment: you'd be amazed at the speed of a flap disc on an angle grinder when it comes to preparing an ingot! 10/10, would recommend :)
copper sulfate was on the influencer mailing list this week but I like this better than the channel that used it to clean out the inside of their car engine while it was running this is practical and useful! NOT dumb.
variations in non-food/explosive processes aren't really monitored so an extra 5-15% one way or the other wouldn't surprise me at all...I'd say it reflects the quality control of the product and not the process used to precipitate it back out, because, the quality of chemical reactions are pretty much self-regulated once they're going compared to whatever a human's gonna do
It is easier to melt fine copper if you have a solid chunck of copper to melt with it. That way the fines have a puddle to melt in that keeps them from oxidizing. Fine copper has a lot of surface area that makes it much easier to oxidize especially in a high heat environment.
If you don't want to buy firebrick, you can get some plaster of paris from home depot which ends up porous enough to let the water used for mixing evaporate out instead of building up pressure like concrete did in your first pour.
12:00 The white and blue stuff is probably a mix of copper I and II chloride. Copper I chloride is white. Copper II chloride is blue greenish depending on its purity and hydration.
Not sure what you are using, but as far as end mills go, a 2 flute end mill is what you want as copper is more gummy under the knife than brass or aluminum and it can cause issues with clogging the flutes.
I still remember growing a copper sulphate crystal at school which was a few decades ago now but I still want to try the suspension method where you can grow them massive
Liquid copper can absorb a lot of air making it spongy. My advice is to add charcoal dust to the copper, it degasses it very nicely in my limited experience.
I choose to believe that last comment meant that if SHTF my favorite pirate would be out there somewhere just immediately starting high energy nuclear experiments 😂
novice non-miller here, but for feed/speed, copper being wok hardening would tend more than brass or aluminum to slow it down, just thinking with your bit size 1/2 mil chip/glitter should be a goal for all materials and work your speeds/feeds to that end result. Looks nice though and good info!
Nice man! You might want to try some thick coolant for copper (supharized, or even bar and chain oil). It’s the only coolant that has helped with machining copper for me. Better finish, less squealing, etc. Cheers!
I think this is one of the best ads I've ever seen made by a creator in their own video. that was amazing but the video was great too but that ad dude😂
My understanding from watching machinists on YT is that copper is not a machine friendly material although there are alloys that are more forgiving. Also borax laundry detergent is a cheap readily available flux if you try this again. As for the voids, make sure your mold is completely dry and hot before pouring.
Copper is notoriously difficult to machine. It's so soft that it deforms and gums up cutters, rather than cutting off in nice shavings. It's really not surprising that your mill didn't like it. Super cool though!
When I melt copper I use borax as flux. The boiling and pits are from oxygen that dissolved into the liquid copper. Liquid Copper will absorb a TON of oxygen which boil out of solution when cooling. This is why electronics state “oxygen free copper”.
If you want to go down the metal casting and machining route, you should definitely use a saw to square it up before machining, a band saw would be a good choice.
The bubbling during casting is probably hydrogen contamination. The white powder on your HCl patinaed copper is probably just copper(I) chloride, which is the lower chloride that happens to be white. Over time (weeks to years) you'll notice it oxidize to the colorful copper(II) chloride. Keep an eye on it.
Copper dissolves combustion products at high temperatures which then come bubbling out once the casting starts to cool. This is the biggest reason for porosity in Copper home-castings.
Bro's just playing factorio seablock lol
Imagine one day he begins to turn beans into biofuel 😂
His PC died from the size of his factory so he decided to switch to playing on the real life server.
@@zeta3341 Bro's already got that mineral sludge flowing and the methane pumping... THE FACTORY MUST GROW
@@zeta3341 He does that all the time though? Beans go in, biofuel comes out. Nothing complicated about that.
@@zeta3341 makes me wonder if his channel is why i got recommended Dosh as well, since i never watched any factorio content before
"Propane furnace off amazon", this is another reason I like this channel. I didn't know I could get that on amazon. It just fills my head with stupid ideas. lol
If you plan on getting into smelting like I did, then I highly recommend taking a loot at Devil Forge as well. A little more expensive, but the quality has been well worth it so far.
Best youtube channel hands down. the perfect mix of science, curiosity, bad decisions and some dad humor. love the work on the cryocoolers
I read your comment and couldn't believe how true your words are good sir 😂😂
Not too much science but plenty of bad decisions.
He's back! Been so long I was worried there was an unfortunate rapid unscheduled disassembly of the hyperspace pirate rocket.
But not the pressurized refrigerant vessel?
There was, but because of all the copper sulfate in the crash site he was able to fix the rocket
The voids in the copper are due (in a big part) to the fact that molten copper has a high affinity for oxygen, which dissolves into the melt from the atmosphere present in the gas furnace.
You can solve this by taking a little 30mm length of 12 mm copper pipe crimped at one end and filled with Ca(OCl)2 on a length of stiff iron wire and plunging this to the bottom of the melt immediately before pouring. This gives off chlorine which sparges the dissolved oxygen out of the melt.
Worked wonders when I used this trick.
@user-yb5cn3np5q yes, you are right, I have edited the above thanks!
Wow nice trick!
Is there an easy to get product that's calcium oxychloride?
Yeah check the MSDS first but some solid pool chlorine products are technical grade calcium hypochlorite.
I finally found someone who understands me. I also built my own CNC mill and it cost a lot (and worked poorly). Now I'm putting even more money into it and hoping it will be different
I am gonna build one too, any tips?
@@MikeOxolong yes, don't, unless it is 110% as a hobby project funded 100% by throwaway funds you have laying around
Git gud, scrub. Best advice I can provide, unfortunately...
Ohh, and make sure your rig is as rigid as possible, overbuild it up the yin yang, rigidity is everything in a milling machine. Also ensure that backlash is minimized as well, a couple tenths of slop at the spindle can equate to several thou at the tip of the cutter. If you can't build heavier then build harder, the hardness of your supports will decrease flex and backlash, consider heat treating all the components of the frame if possible (use a medium carbon alloy, something you can heat treat to 40-45 Rockwell). Also make sure your drive components aren't underpowered or sloppy, use baller ballscrews instead of belts and strong servomotors, overbuild everything. And do remember that the foundation you build upon is the most important part of the mill, if you build it on top of a wood desk remember that your machine is only as rigid as what it is mounted on. A 2" inch thick slab of steel or 4" thick slab of granite is infinitely better than a piece of 3/4" thick plywood.
Rigidity, rigidity, and rigidity are your three guiding tenets when building a mill, remember that...
@@MikeOxolong
@TheExplosiveGuy gave you good advice on the construction, but before you even draw 1 line in cad you have to answer the question: "Why do I need this?"
A CNC milling machine is terribly expensive to build, works very slowly, requires expensive consumables and requires expensive materials for milling (check how much a piece of bronze or aluminum costs). So it's better to have a good reason to do it.
If you want to create parts for your projects, buy (for the money you have to spend on building a milling machine you can easily buy a good model) or build a 3D printer. It is faster, cheaper, can do more, and works on relatively cheap materials. If you need more durable parts, don't mess with metal, just print them bigger.
If you want to build your CNC machine anyway, design it with ease of use in mind (how you attach the part, how long it takes to start, how the tools are inserted). I know it sounds obvious, but you really don't want to spend a lot of money on a machine that is a pain to use. A CNC milling machine is not a machine that can work without CONTINUOUS supervision and the process of starting and preparing the machine can take ~45 minutes, the program can take 2/3 hours (if there is a large detail), each manual tool change + recalibration takes at least 10 minutes and at the very end it may turn out that it failed. A CNC milling machine can very easily damage itself, so it must be constantly monitored during this time
PS. You will spend at least twice as much money as you planned (and that's assuming you had a large buffer in your original budget)
It's actually the hydrocarbons reducing the CuO back to Cu metal in the torch flame, it's not necessarily just because of the heat. There's a redox reaction going on too. You can see this by first heating the CuO a little bit then cutting the flame and then you can just use the unburning hydrocarbon and you can see it will quickly reduce the hot CuO back to Cu at a much lower temperature.
Thank you, that was my understanding too. And which is why it immediately turns black again as soon as he removes the flame - not after cooling down. And also why it only reduces to cooper exactly where the flame is, regardless of temperature, despite it conducting heat so well.
This works even better when you dunk the hot black copper in ethanol. The black copper oxide then instantly gets reduced back to red copper metal - and the ethanol gets oxidised to ethanal, which has a distinct smell (ripe apples).
@@kromphout You can use that reaction to fuel a "lamp". Google "acetone lamp". Harder to get working with ethanol due to the higher boiling point.
copper is suprisungly hard to mill - you need sharp tools, correct speeds and coolant. Btw. somebody convinced google ai that "full cream milk" is a good coolant :)
Just like someone convinced it that adding non-toxic glue to pizza cheese gives it better consistency. The future is looking bright :-/
@@andersjjensen that glue is caesin aka milk solids. They make vegan caesin.
@@lrmackmcbride7498 The glue in this example was specifically mentioned to be PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) glue. It is considered "non toxic", but is absolutely not considered "food grade".
@@andersjjensen we're just bringing back natural selection
@@NvidiaRTX5080 the kind of person who lets others die is naturally selected out of human communities and out into the weather ;)
The ad is as entertaining as the substance of the video. Talent
If you want another rabbit hole of reducing copper sulfate into solid, useful parts, try DC-biased AC electrodeposition. There's very little literature on the topic, but if you fine-tune the parameters (I'd start at a DC bias of 1V with an AC waveform of 2V above and below that, 60Hz) you can basically 3D print the deposited copper into any shape you want by moving the "anode" around the conductive graphite bottom plate. The close proximity of the electrode (1-2mm) and reverse plating during that part of the cycle means you get solid, useful parts instead of flaky copper deposits that would occur with normal DC electroplating.
If you have a fancy electric signal generator, you could use that, but I've found that just using one of those AC/DC wall adapters with the circular plugs (that cheap appliances use for charging) works; if you've got a spare one (since you have to cut the head off it and separate the wires) in the right voltage/current levels. You might also be able to generate an appropriate waveform using audio software and running that signal to the electrodeposition wires instead of a speaker.
@user-yb5cn3np5q It still doesn't have a modern name because basically no one uses it or writes papers on it. It's super finicky, so if anyone foes use it they keep it in house
Could you send some useful papers about it?
@@19Gacek89 I can't provide links because youtube often auto-ghosts comments containing links, but googling
pulsed reverse current electrodeposition
should get you in the right direction. No papers I've found talk about using it as a metal 3d printing technique, but it works for that from my (albeit limited) experience.
electrically, never heard of it, but the mechanical part sounds like Sunshine´s video "i made a METAL 3D-Printer at home!" ( W1d36wbx_yg )
Ammonia gives also the complex ion, so it is tetraamminecopper(II) hydroxide. And in case of HCl, the white stuff is Cu(I)Cl and the blue is Cu(II)Cl2.
I was about to comment this myself. The deep blue is typical for the basic amine-copper complex.
Love the color of tetraamine copper.
I've watched many many videos on the theme of "I built a CNC" and have always thought "yeah, but my CNC wouldn't be like this... my CNC would be 'challenged'"... now I've seen one closer to my best expectations. ;)
7:49 place your propane tank in a bucket filled with water. it will stabilize the temp of the tank and prevent freezing. i learned that one from years of running propane ovens at festivals lol
Thank goodness for this tutorial I really needed it
That information on patinas was really valuable for me. I really appreciate it. There’s lots of ways to finish metals and if you’re making stuff it can make the piece but it isn’t like a game guide where everything is written down
Not just the CNC dust maker. But freecad as well? Institutionalize this man!
Jokes aside. Really awesome video! Copper is really one of the best metals out there. Soft enough to work with basic tools. But still hard enough for jewelry. And you get all sorts of neat colors from it.
Hey now, at least it isn't openscad
@@Ammoniummetavanadate luckily, I've never had the misfortune. But just looking at the webpage was a mental flashbang.
@@Ammoniummetavanadate I've fooled about with openscad before. It kinda sucks.
I just got into CAD, and have learned FreeCAD as my first parametric CAD software. It's really good!
@@stockwellengineeringhints3527 OpenCAD is functional, sure, but the people on the project are extremely set in their ways and don't prioritize ergonomics.
Get a free hobbiest licence of Fusion 360 or a $50 a year licence for SolidWorks for comparison and you will be way more productive.
I really wish I could like OpenCAD and would put up with the quirks but unfortunately the state of the leadership on that project make it a no-go for me.
this video reminded me I've always wanted to make copper sulfate crystals. I'm gonna try and do it now thanks
Same
Dont, and I repeat myself, dont try too hard to get them mass stable with desiccant or an oven. You're just pulling out the crystal water
You're one of the few channels where enough effort is put into the ad copy (and animations) that I'd rather sit through them and enjoy, rather than skipping ahead. Ahoy hoy, ye have fully captured my eyeballs.
Your joule thomson coolign series inspired me to make a cooling system of my own to try and collect and liquify the gaseous radon present in my basement.
That's quite the "turning lemons into lemonade" thing ever!!!
I... Is that, safer? Like that? Like, it gets it outta the air at least, but then it's concentrated. But then it can be concentrated in a lead vessel. You gotta post about this somewhere I'm invested now
@@Enderbro3300Definitely not safer lol
Sounds precisely sketchy enough that I would watch the crap out of a video series about the project. Just saying "liquid radon" out loud checks all the boxes for me.
How much radon do you expect there to be? The half-live is 4 days. You are not going to liquefy a microgram of that stuff, which is perhaps as much as there can be at any point in time. Let alone liquefying a visible quantity without dying.
You can also grow fairly large copper crystals in copper sulphate electrolysis. My largest so far is 2 kg.
do they grow in pretty shapes or just typical metal fractals?
@crackedemerald4930
It's a shame I can't post pictures of the ones I've done on these replies. The dendritic growth is largely dependent upon factors such as electrolyte concentration, distance between electrodes, voltage and current, they are generally random in nature, but some control is possible.
So starting from powder you are best off compressing it, ideally with a cold isostatic press but if you don't have one of those like I do you can use a hydraulic press and a pellet press die.
You are right, flux helps a lot, I am sure you fired around the papers on this.
Adding an ultrasonic probe to your tank will speed up the dissolving process a lot.
I want to commend the extreme puzzling factor of your DIY. Like, it's suspiciously useful-adjacent while at the same time usually seeming like a way to do something worse with extra steps. (No offsense intended). Truly the uncanny valley of maker youtube videos.
Ea Nasir returns!!
Copper sulphate electrolysis is also a way to digest base metals (especially Copper) from scrap electronics. Leaving gold in the waste. Possibly even in the form of gold foils.
Would you mind explaining that? Sorry for how late I am.
@combycat
Do you have a specific question?
It's not particularly difficult. One does need an anode bag to retain the resulting foils. And an inert anode material. I used titanium foil. The copper will collect on the cathode, so starting with a copper wire, or plate makes sense.
Usefulll material, didnt know what to do with the 50 pounds of copper sulfate i "stumbled" upon
Thankyou for showing us this wonderful process! And also the wonderful process of your mind! Brilliant!
With machining copper you have to brass over your cutting tools basically dulling them on purpose so that they don’t get sucked into the copper and no climb milling
This dude has the balls to do the completely unnecessary stuff we have all wanted to try. A true legend
I thought the next video was "swimming in liquid nitrogen using the leidenfrost effect." This is good too
I want to try that now
I love metal work of all kinds, especially machining. And chemistry has always fascinated me(even though I don't really have much experience or knowledge about it). And apocalyptic humor is my jam, so this video checks all the boxes. ✅ ✅ ✅❤
this dude needs to be more well known on utube!
After washing your powder, wash with very dilute HCl to remove oxide layer, filter, then wash with acetone to remove any water. Mix with a small amount of graphite powder. It will make it less reactive, act as a lubricant when cold pressing, then it is packed in carbon and sintered.
This guy is a legitimate genius.
also the bubbles are dissolved oxygen. Melt it with a reducing flame (and pour under a reducing flame) and you wont get them. You can also add charcoal to the furnace to help too.
I really love solutions for very specific problems like this
One makes copper, the other steals it. The Florida Man Giveth and the other Florida Man taketh away.
this was not what I was waiting for, but I support you bro! 🙌🏻
You could probably do a double displacement reaction with calcium nitrate and copper sulfate where the calcium will take sulfate and become insoluble leaving copper nitrate one of the few soluble salts of copper then reduce it in a furnace.
6:40 This dude stumbled across true alchemy and just refused it 😂
Im very familiar with CuSO4.
Its used within refineries to concentrate and eventually smelt copper, gold, lead zinc and silver.
After ores like these are crushed, ball milled and then heavily watered down, they mix xanthates, Copper sulfate and cyanide to help extract these metals out from the very thin mud to be bubbled out.
This separates into what we call Concentrate and Tailings.
Tailings is generally sent to a pond/dam to evaporate into paste which is sent back into underground mines for sections closed down while the concentrate is dried in a hyperbaric filter to be then added with limes and flux to be smelted.
Lead/Zinc is then seperated at this point with other xanthates in a "Filter plant".
The smelting process further removes any impurities as slag and the copper is then cast into anodes for electrolysis.
In which CuSO4 is then used again to make very pure copper cathodes.
These cathodes are then shipped directly to industrial customers.
Search up Mt Isa or Mt Isa Mines, A Copper Gold mine linked with a sister Lead, Zinc Silver mine George Fisher.
Raw ore is excavated and sent to the concentrator and blast furnaces on the surface.
One of these most unique towns to exist in australia.
Copper is gummy as hell, so my recommendation is a two or three flute cutter, increase spindle speed, slow down feed. When I cut copper and I can't or don't want contaminants I use vegetable oil, in your case it would have to be flood cooling to flush the chips out. Neat process and it was fun to watch.
Copper can be electroplated onto 3-D printed parts. First electroless copper deposition is used to plate a thin layer, and then electroplating is used to thicken the layer.
If you want to patina copper, get a plastic bin. Put a cup of household ammonia in the bottom, and then the copper item in there. The ammonia fumes will turn it a nice black. Dont do it on thinwall stuff because of stress corrosion cracking, but for something like your cube it would work fine.
Congrats on 1M subscribers!⚡
Molten copper readily dissolves hydrogen (in a reducing atmosphere) or oxygen (when oxidizing) -- both of which are readily available in a gas-fired furnace depending on condition, and which crashes out on freezing, hence the swiss-cheese ingots. Best practice is probably tune the flame for slightly oxidizing (the flame cone will look kind of purplish), to avoid hydrogen; then use a cover of crushed/powdered charcoal with the copper powder/melt, so oxides (and any free oxygen) get reduced to pure metal, directly on contact or in the resulting CO atmosphere at the surface.
Brazing flux is a good start, to dissolve oxides -- but as you saw, it's rather runny and hard to pour clean metal with. A less aggressive flux or slag is desirable. Basically, you can take some crushed soda-lime glass, maybe a little borax to thin and activate it, then a pinch of clay (a source of alumina) to thicken it up. The resulting slag will float on top and spread out, covering the metal, but is sticky and viscous enough at pouring temperature to either stay stuck in the crucible, or to skim out with a hook or spoon before pouring. Cheers!
This is so funny to me. It’s like someone gave this guy a few text books and he’s making the most out of it. I love this
Love copper chemistry, it has the best colors.
Vanadium be like 😢
@@Exotic_Chem_Lab haven't gotten around to vanadium yet, a little exotic. Sounds like exactly your type of jam.
Thank you for your humerous & interesting videos, Mr Pirate. My comment: you'd be amazed at the speed of a flap disc on an angle grinder when it comes to preparing an ingot! 10/10, would recommend :)
I used copper sulphate as the etchant for making aluminum control panels using the toner transfer technique.
copper sulfate was on the influencer mailing list this week but I like this better than the channel that used it to clean out the inside of their car engine while it was running
this is practical and useful!
NOT dumb.
also I filter out the algae and use it for fertilizer, it's free fertilizer, really
variations in non-food/explosive processes aren't really monitored so an extra 5-15% one way or the other wouldn't surprise me at all...I'd say it reflects the quality control of the product and not the process used to precipitate it back out, because, the quality of chemical reactions are pretty much self-regulated once they're going compared to whatever a human's gonna do
It is easier to melt fine copper if you have a solid chunck of copper to melt with it. That way the fines have a puddle to melt in that keeps them from oxidizing. Fine copper has a lot of surface area that makes it much easier to oxidize especially in a high heat environment.
If you don't want to buy firebrick, you can get some plaster of paris from home depot which ends up porous enough to let the water used for mixing evaporate out instead of building up pressure like concrete did in your first pour.
Great job, keep going. Btw, thanks to your videos I was able to pass thermodynamics class on university.
12:00 The white and blue stuff is probably a mix of copper I and II chloride. Copper I chloride is white. Copper II chloride is blue greenish depending on its purity and hydration.
Not sure what you are using, but as far as end mills go, a 2 flute end mill is what you want as copper is more gummy under the knife than brass or aluminum and it can cause issues with clogging the flutes.
TH-cam recommends me your videos at 4am for some reason.
I'm not complaining though
I still remember growing a copper sulphate crystal at school which was a few decades ago now but I still want to try the suspension method where you can grow them massive
0:51 That's a REALLY big CuSO4 crystal and I love it 😂😂
god damn even the comments are cool. a rare and magical channel
Powders are also just inherently darker than bulk material if the material is opaque. Light gets trapped bouncing between the grains so less reflects.
This is the content that I want!
Liquid copper can absorb a lot of air making it spongy. My advice is to add charcoal dust to the copper, it degasses it very nicely in my limited experience.
I choose to believe that last comment meant that if SHTF my favorite pirate would be out there somewhere just immediately starting high energy nuclear experiments 😂
novice non-miller here, but for feed/speed, copper being wok hardening would tend more than brass or aluminum to slow it down, just thinking with your bit size 1/2 mil chip/glitter should be a goal for all materials and work your speeds/feeds to that end result.
Looks nice though and good info!
Do you need a bunch of copper for future projects?
Nice man! You might want to try some thick coolant for copper (supharized, or even bar and chain oil). It’s the only coolant that has helped with machining copper for me. Better finish, less squealing, etc. Cheers!
try using some oil when milling like vegetable shortening or spray grease. mine struggles on metal without lube too.
the problem of machining copper and alloys is the cutting tool: the cut edge must be specific for copper (the cut angle is less aggressive)
7:09 "the result was just ash" don't know why but that made me laugh out loud haha
Cant wait until he creates a 1 : 50 scale industrial zone out of his backyard
I think this is one of the best ads I've ever seen made by a creator in their own video. that was amazing but the video was great too but that ad dude😂
If i recall burning paper soaked in copper sulfate results in pure copper
My understanding from watching machinists on YT is that copper is not a machine friendly material although there are alloys that are more forgiving. Also borax laundry detergent is a cheap readily available flux if you try this again. As for the voids, make sure your mold is completely dry and hot before pouring.
love your uploads. thanks a bunch!
Sodium carbonate builds a nice insoluble patina of copper carbonate under electrolysis.
The ad break is top notch
Wow, you must have gotten a great deal on all that algaecide. I've only bought it once, liquid form, and it was ridiculously expensive.
Fun times, good on you for your persistence.
The colour of the Status of Liberty and most old copper roofs is copper sulfide.
If you add in the cost of sulphuric acid it actually becomes an economical thing to do, if only slightly.
That's probably the best use case for those cheapo tent stakes.
11:21 It's not copper hydroxide, it's tetraaminediaqua copper(II) hydroxide, also known as Schweizer's reagent
Well, the next time I do copper plating, I'll have to try the ammonia fumes for that patino look
Kerosene or diesel for lube on copper or alum. Works wonders.
10:36 copper is way more viscous
Yes, It is way too soft. The material tends to grab the flutes of the end mill while you'r your machining.
What a useful video for my weirdly specific problem! ;)
Copper is notoriously difficult to machine. It's so soft that it deforms and gums up cutters, rather than cutting off in nice shavings. It's really not surprising that your mill didn't like it. Super cool though!
When I melt copper I use borax as flux. The boiling and pits are from oxygen that dissolved into the liquid copper. Liquid Copper will absorb a TON of oxygen which boil out of solution when cooling. This is why electronics state “oxygen free copper”.
the block probably needed annealing, to make machining easier
If you want to go down the metal casting and machining route, you should definitely use a saw to square it up before machining, a band saw would be a good choice.
The bubbling during casting is probably hydrogen contamination. The white powder on your HCl patinaed copper is probably just copper(I) chloride, which is the lower chloride that happens to be white. Over time (weeks to years) you'll notice it oxidize to the colorful copper(II) chloride. Keep an eye on it.
Copper dissolves combustion products at high temperatures which then come bubbling out once the casting starts to cool. This is the biggest reason for porosity in Copper home-castings.
Wow 🤩
Alchemist badge achievement achieved
"I'll be dead from radiation poisoning" You got a new sub!
I'm not sure if I like this channel for the science or for the humor
use sulpherized potash to age the copper
I always laugh at your comments! The video was very entertaining, thanks for sharing it!
Citing Photonicinduction: I WANT MORE!
There is also 3d printing with copper dust.