A gradual approch to problem solving and retro action on technical problems. Great ! Spent my life in computer, software, and business ..... and now I need to interact with real and tangible. Loved this video - and many others you created. I now 3d print, make drones, make things - how refreshing it is to see results from interaction and thinking. I plan to get a milling in the next few weeks - PM25 mills + conversion. Thanks again Kent.
Hi Marc, thank you for the kind words and description of your changing interests. I too lived a life of computers and software. It's addictive how fast an idea can be created in software. I got pretty sick during my career and gave it up. I still write software, but to support new interests, and as with you, these interests are now interacting with the tangible. Perhaps you feel the same sense of urgency, that there is much to learn. I can't imagine ever being bored. I hope to hear again from you. I would like to hear how your conversion goes. Let me know if there is anything that I could do to help. Best wishes, Kent
Only spend time with the few good ones :) Your kind comments come at the perfect time. The Universe always seems to send good vibes when needed. Today is the first day of scaling back my already small business. In the end, the bits that are working will be stronger, and I'll have time for projects again. Have a great weekend!
Hi Kent, I like what you did to your lathe, for a weekend project it looks pretty sharp and obviously functional. Congrats on your son, he's a cutie. Thanks for subscribing and thanks for this video.
Thanks Joe, you're a true machinist, not tinkerer like myself and I so I hope you continue to post on your Bridgeport retrofit. It's truly a work of art. For anyone who is interested, be sure to check out the conversion at th-cam.com/video/2kt3-8CxaEQ/w-d-xo.html And thank you, his parents are a little older, but we can spend more time with him now than we would have been able to 20 years ago. Everything occurs when it's meant to. Best wishes, Kent
Thank you, and it took me a long time as well, but it was great way to learn Solidworks. I received a conversion kit for this lathe recently, the last one of its kind maybe. In my Shop Talk #1 video, I show the pieces. The man who built it was a mold tool-and-die guy and it shows in the quality. I hope to get started on it soon. I've been planning the electronics. Doing some cleanup on the lathe tonight. I spend the summers outside but it's turning cold around here and so I'm heading back into the shop. Best wishes, Kent
Thanks Timo, I really appreciate that. I replaced the 3D printed parts with a kit from a professional tool and die maker recently. Will you post your Atlas conversion? Maybe I learn some Germany too. Best wishes from Midwest USA.
Are those thrust bearings large enough in diameter to be only interacting with the outer race of the radial bearings? The thrust bearings looked to small in the model you were showing.
great job Kent ! I would have loved to see you actually making the printed parts on your rig...looks like they were machined out of Delrin !! Clearpath servos are the way to go...they cost $$ but 3 to 8 x the power and closed loop in one neat package.
Many thanks! These are printed on an original Makerbot in ABS. For the next version I plan to use Clearpath servos (others have recommended them too) and I have an ambitious goal to redo the parts in cast aluminum. The foundry furnace is ready but don't have experience with casting. A viewer made the suggestion and at-home casting seems to be a skill that is being lost to time. To learn I got mrpete222's foundry course videos. Best wishes, Kent
LinuxCNC has backlash compensation, which commands motors to move as fast as possible to catch up with direction changes. OK for mechanical play on a lathe were we can plan to feed in one direction. Without feedback the controller will not know if the servo has fallen behind. Need to empirically find the limits and stay a margin below them. It's all pretty interesting.
@@kentvandervelden yes, kind of. I have a chinese bv20 lathe, six speed gearbox, and i was thinking that maybe if i built a simple milling attachment and put a stepper along with ballscrews for the x and y axis, it could maybe be used for light milling, maybe even cutting out shapes like clock escapement parts
Not sure if they'll work for you, but noticed Amazon has some relatively inexpensive manual linear actuator sliding tables that might be a good starting point.
Can you please tell me Which software did you use to run the machine? Please bro i am also working to make the cnc wood turning project. I am from india
Hi Nasa, I wrote the code from scratch. It was as basic as I could make it. Today I use LinuxCNC. There's also MachineKit, based on LinuxCNC, for Beagle Bone. Maybe Marlen for Arduino?
Nice, I hope I get around to playing with closed loop steppers one day.. although one motor+driver costs more than the entire 3 axis electronics that I'm using right now :)
Completely agree, and I certainly could never have afforded these, but a friend had them for work, and I was able to borrow them for a few days. For an alternative, take a look at my PM25MV mill conversion test video. It uses Leadshine closed-loop steppers and while they need a power supply, they are 1/3 the cost or so of the ones on the lathe.
And I suppose the two take on the higher price... Argh, that's terrible. For what it's worth, when I got the Leadshine motors, I had planned to create my own control loop, monitoring the encoders separate from the drive, so I got drives without feedback. That needs more explanation to make sense. But the unexpected thing was how much less torque the same motor had with the non-feedback drive compared to an equivalent size drive with feedback. Leadshine verified that's expected. I was naive at the time, thinking that re-sending lost steps was enough for closed-loop operation, but increasing current as needed is what makes the difference.
I would never have thought of that but it figures - I suppose if the motor loses steps that's a sign that the drive needs to increase the torque as well as compensate for the steps already lost.
The torque is effected by the micro-stepping setting and I considered adjusting that on the fly. High micro-stepping under normal operation and then full-stepping under the greatest load. I don't remember what prevented this idea from being practical. Perhaps the drive needed to be power cycled for the change to take effect? Anyway, that may have been getting too Rube Goldberg anyway :) Apparently, some drives are smart about micro-stepping, and increase current slightly when micro-stepping to compensate for the torque lost. You sure are right about there being a lot of cool stuff out there to try.
Check out my most recent video: goo.gl/Jj7cU1 Updated conversion: th-cam.com/video/TPRQVCCYKaQ/w-d-xo.html The SolidWorks model files can be downloaded from kvvcreates.com/sb1001_cnc_lathe/. Please let me know if you make your own or improve the design.
Sorry to be so slow releasing these. Please see if you can access kvvcreates.com/sb1001_cnc_lathe/ and let me know if you have any suggestions. Best wishes, Kent
Is this spindle using an encoder? or how do you figure the RPM?? I'm thinking that you may be using one of those cheap Chinese three phase with an small VFD.....? Just trying to understand what you have done...
In this video I unfortunately didn't control the spindle speed beyond using the built-in adjustment knob. The displayed RPM is measured using a sensor and magnet on the spindle, and the displayed RPM is pretty accurate. I've not torn the spindle drive down, but I'm pretty sure it's a BLDC unit with encoder feedback. The low speed regulation is not great. I might try replacing the potentiometer. If driving the drive from a computer, one would simply send most likely 0-5VDC to the drive in place of the potentiometer to control the spindle speed. Also, if controlling from a computer, the spindle encoder should be replaced with a higher pulse-per-revolution one to better synchronize spindle with axis movement. I don't know if replacement drives are still available, but when they were from Grizzly the cost was insane. Someone replacing the drive on this lathe would be best to consider as you suggested. Thank you By the way, you have a nice channel. I'm watching your toroid winding videos, very cool machine.
Hi there, First of all thanks nice video. How can you help me? I want to make special purpose 2 axis lathe type Cnc machine. My requirement is rpm of spindle speed is 10 - 300m and 2nd axis ball screw control by Cnc control with precision features for my operation is like threading. Please give me best solution. Thanks
Thank you for the question and faith that I could help you. Unfortunately, you should find someone with greater mechanical experience and able to thoroughly understand what your goal is. I wish you all the best of success. Your project sounds very interesting.
Kent VanderVelden thanks for your quick reply. It’s semi automatic Cnc spring coiling machine for thick wire. Spindle axis for mendral rpm. And ball screw for pitch control according to requirements but precise Compound slide control manually. Thanks
You might try using the gear train for the lead screw to multiply the torque the stepper motor provides. Then you can go back to the stock lead screw and half nut (as long as you keep the nut liberally lubricated). The advantage of the ball screw is that the balls are always in compression so there is no back lash in the screw. You can get around this problem with a standard screw (or using the rack gear for that matter.. my bench lathe is within 0.001"/inch feed) by a little thoughtful programming. In the program you do what the manual machinist has to do... keep all the slack in one direction. For example if cutting right to left move the carriage to the right past the start point a distance you know exceeds the slack in the feed. Now the carriage is moved to the left (the cutting feed direction) to the start point of the next pass on the work. You would do the same for machining a feature like a snap ring groove to insure that it was located the correct distance from the end of the part. That 3-d printer you have would be the cat's pajamas for making mold cores... then you could have your parts in cast iron.
These are all really great ideas. Thank you. Using the existing gear train never came to mind, and it makes a lot of sense. Could then use a non-stepper motor on the gear train, and mount a rotary encoder on the support end of the leadscrew. My program was really basic and before CAM software was practical. Now Fusion360 and LinuxCNC (or MachineKit) are a great combination for conversions. Using the 3D printed parts for mold casting is really intriguing. Tubalcain has several videos on aluminum casting, and he makes it look doable. I never had a reason to consider casting, but you have the right idea. Thank you again for the great suggestions. Tubalcain's Foundry Videos: th-cam.com/play/PL69F982076354AC97.html
Very interesting. I've enjoyed Keith Rucker's video I've watched, and I'll go digging for the casting ones. I never would have considered approaching a foundry for a couple of parts. I figured one of the following three didn't belong: foundry, one part, reasonable price. (Sorry to respond late. TH-cam held your comment, maybe because of the link?) Thank you and best wishes
Your suggestion of using the 3d printed parts to make castings has stayed in my mind. I now have a foundry furnace and after some practice would like to follow your suggestion. I ordered MrPete's foundry videos to get started. Not sure what I'm in for, but I'm sure I'll learn a lot. :) Best wishes, Kent
hello my name is victor i speak to you from peru ... i would like to help me q tiepo of engines is using its characteristics and type of spindle lead shafts please
Hello Victor, it's wonderful to meet you. Are you wondering about the lathe or the CNC parts? The lathe specifications are at this link. Let me know if you need more details. drive.google.com/open?id=1WbpSyD6TgAFWRCmKZv-1O3Cmnh3Vgnqj
Hi Stewart, sorry I don't have the code any longer. I've since converted the lathe to be LinuxCNC controlled. There are far better CNC implementation for Arduino than what I did. Sorry I could not help more :(
Probably, but I would not expect an accuracy that matches using the lathe manually. Nothing against the 3d parts, but the motors are little weak. A followup approach is better and is what I use today: th-cam.com/video/TPRQVCCYKaQ/w-d-xo.html
Yes, all the prints are ABS. That's the only material I used on the Makerbot. On a Taz5, I've used ABS and PLA, but have stuck with ABS, despite it not being as popular any more.
Hi Jibsam, this spindle maxes out around 2600 rpm but should not be run faster than about 2200 rpm for long. I generally use constant surface speed with the max speed set to 2200 rpm. If your project is making a CNC lathe, consider guarding around the spindle. Dangerous bird nests of strings build up fast. Best of success to you!
+Teddy Kristiyan Hi Teddy, I just wrote something up. Nothing special and probably lost by now. The input format was not g-code and so not so too helpful in general. Others have done better making a Arduino CNC controller. My latest conversion of this lathe uses LinuxCNC.
Happy July 4th to you as well! This is a South Bend SB1001, similar to the 8K's but sold by Grizzly who closed them out a year or two ago. www.southbendlathe.com/products/lathes/SB1001
Hi, Kent! I already started my mini lathe conversion. I was able to keep the original lead screws. I still haven't tested the backlash compensation, but I'be implementing it in the next few days. Check this video out. (Is not in english, sorry) th-cam.com/video/8fPzSeyCA4g/w-d-xo.html
Hi Bruno, I just checked it out, and all looks great! Most of the time the auto-translations of the closed captions works well enough to fill in the pieces, and I like to hear other languages spoken. Peace
Video is GREAT. The machine is GREAT The subject is GREAT The purpose is GREAT The method is GREAT The work needed is GREAT The price is Great But......................... The speed of your "rhetoric" is TOO dadgummed fast. Please learn to slow down when teaching. It would make for outstanding videos. Oh indeed yes! Thanks
+pat dee Thank you for the feedback. If you have a few more minutes, would you see if my more recent video on this lathe, using a CNC conversion kit is better?
Where in the video are you noticing this? Is the original or the replacement ACME screw in use? While even new ACME screws will not be perfect, and should be mapped with a indicator first, more likely you are seeing an issue with the crudeness of the 3D printed parts.
The saddle is held by tabs preventing the front or rear from rising from the bedways. The cross slide is held in place by the ways of the saddle. And the stepper motors are of so little power than I can stop them by hand. Sorry, I just don't see how a crash could bend either ACME screw, but thank you for your comment.
its easiest to see around 11:52 in the video. i suppose it could be related to the far end support of the screw not being totally in line, but i don't see as how that would give the illusion of run out as opposed to just being at an angle.
Oh, that pulsating away from the line of the bedways? That's for sure because of the crudeness of the 3D printed parts. I can't put that onto McMaster sending a bent ACME screw. But thanks for suggesting the leadscrew was bent instead of that my parts were wanky :) I got to get back to this project. I have a design ready to go in metal, but I do contract work, and I have to put in all the hours I can when work is available. Best wishes, Kent
i didn't know if you bought this lathe new. Def not under CNC power. But if you run the carriage into the chuck whilst threading you can definitely twist that screw up. Most screw mapping is for lead error not runout. I can def see McMaster sending a tweaked screw. Its actually not all that uncommon. You can pull the screw, put it between centers and confirm its truth fairly easily. But i don't doubt the wonkiness of printed parts. I print a lot of parts to proof my design before committing them to the cnc lathe.
A gradual approch to problem solving and retro action on technical problems. Great ! Spent my life in computer, software, and business ..... and now I need to interact with real and tangible. Loved this video - and many others you created. I now 3d print, make drones, make things - how refreshing it is to see results from interaction and thinking. I plan to get a milling in the next few weeks - PM25 mills + conversion. Thanks again Kent.
Hi Marc, thank you for the kind words and description of your changing interests. I too lived a life of computers and software. It's addictive how fast an idea can be created in software. I got pretty sick during my career and gave it up. I still write software, but to support new interests, and as with you, these interests are now interacting with the tangible. Perhaps you feel the same sense of urgency, that there is much to learn. I can't imagine ever being bored. I hope to hear again from you. I would like to hear how your conversion goes. Let me know if there is anything that I could do to help. Best wishes, Kent
I'm going through and watching your videos you're a very intelligent guy with ambitious ideas ... it is inspiring thanks for your contributions
Only spend time with the few good ones :) Your kind comments come at the perfect time. The Universe always seems to send good vibes when needed. Today is the first day of scaling back my already small business. In the end, the bits that are working will be stronger, and I'll have time for projects again. Have a great weekend!
Hi Kent,
I like what you did to your lathe, for a weekend project it looks pretty sharp and obviously functional.
Congrats on your son, he's a cutie.
Thanks for subscribing and thanks for this video.
Thanks Joe, you're a true machinist, not tinkerer like myself and I so I hope you continue to post on your Bridgeport retrofit. It's truly a work of art.
For anyone who is interested, be sure to check out the conversion at th-cam.com/video/2kt3-8CxaEQ/w-d-xo.html
And thank you, his parents are a little older, but we can spend more time with him now than we would have been able to 20 years ago. Everything occurs when it's meant to.
Best wishes, Kent
Thank you Kent, you are very kind.
Wow, that lathe modeling would take me a life time or 2. Good work, great info, thank you for sharing.
Thank you, and it took me a long time as well, but it was great way to learn Solidworks. I received a conversion kit for this lathe recently, the last one of its kind maybe. In my Shop Talk #1 video, I show the pieces. The man who built it was a mold tool-and-die guy and it shows in the quality. I hope to get started on it soon. I've been planning the electronics. Doing some cleanup on the lathe tonight. I spend the summers outside but it's turning cold around here and so I'm heading back into the shop. Best wishes, Kent
Very cool. I will be following the process.
Very interesting video!!! Thank you...
This is really nice. I'm working on my own conversion of a Atlas 618 right now.
Thanks Timo, I really appreciate that. I replaced the 3D printed parts with a kit from a professional tool and die maker recently. Will you post your Atlas conversion? Maybe I learn some Germany too. Best wishes from Midwest USA.
Are those thrust bearings large enough in diameter to be only interacting with the outer race of the radial bearings? The thrust bearings looked to small in the model you were showing.
You're right, good chance there is a problem there. The 3d prints have been replaced, but your advice will be used for future work. Thank you
great job Kent ! I would have loved to see you actually making the printed parts on your rig...looks like they were machined out of Delrin !! Clearpath servos are the way to go...they cost $$ but 3 to 8 x the power and closed loop in one neat package.
Many thanks! These are printed on an original Makerbot in ABS. For the next version I plan to use Clearpath servos (others have recommended them too) and I have an ambitious goal to redo the parts in cast aluminum. The foundry furnace is ready but don't have experience with casting. A viewer made the suggestion and at-home casting seems to be a skill that is being lost to time. To learn I got mrpete222's foundry course videos. Best wishes, Kent
I know this was a while ago however would Linuxcnc be able to compensate for back lash in this scenario?
LinuxCNC has backlash compensation, which commands motors to move as fast as possible to catch up with direction changes. OK for mechanical play on a lathe were we can plan to feed in one direction. Without feedback the controller will not know if the servo has fallen behind. Need to empirically find the limits and stay a margin below them. It's all pretty interesting.
If a milling attachment were to be installed along with a third stepper motor, could it be used as a horizontal mill?
I suppose it could, and would pretty interesting! Do you have such a project in mind?
@@kentvandervelden yes, kind of. I have a chinese bv20 lathe, six speed gearbox, and i was thinking that maybe if i built a simple milling attachment and put a stepper along with ballscrews for the x and y axis, it could maybe be used for light milling, maybe even cutting out shapes like clock escapement parts
Not sure if they'll work for you, but noticed Amazon has some relatively inexpensive manual linear actuator sliding tables that might be a good starting point.
@@kentvandervelden Thank you very much for the advice!
very cool Kent!
Thank you :)
Can you please tell me Which software did you use to run the machine? Please bro i am also working to make the cnc wood turning project.
I am from india
Hi Nasa, I wrote the code from scratch. It was as basic as I could make it. Today I use LinuxCNC. There's also MachineKit, based on LinuxCNC, for Beagle Bone. Maybe Marlen for Arduino?
@@kentvandervelden Thanks for giving the information. If i got any doubt means can i ask you?
@@nasateja6849 Of course you may. Feel free to email as well
@@kentvandervelden Thank-you so much😘😘
Very well done video!
Thank you Robert! I've been watching the videos of your CAM programs. Lot of great ideas and you've clearly put a lot of thought into them.
Nice, I hope I get around to playing with closed loop steppers one day.. although one motor+driver costs more than the entire 3 axis electronics that I'm using right now :)
Completely agree, and I certainly could never have afforded these, but a friend had them for work, and I was able to borrow them for a few days. For an alternative, take a look at my PM25MV mill conversion test video. It uses Leadshine closed-loop steppers and while they need a power supply, they are 1/3 the cost or so of the ones on the lathe.
Interesting, it looks like Leadshine and Oriental/Alphastep are roughly equal in price in the UK. There's too much cool stuff out there!
And I suppose the two take on the higher price... Argh, that's terrible. For what it's worth, when I got the Leadshine motors, I had planned to create my own control loop, monitoring the encoders separate from the drive, so I got drives without feedback. That needs more explanation to make sense. But the unexpected thing was how much less torque the same motor had with the non-feedback drive compared to an equivalent size drive with feedback. Leadshine verified that's expected. I was naive at the time, thinking that re-sending lost steps was enough for closed-loop operation, but increasing current as needed is what makes the difference.
I would never have thought of that but it figures - I suppose if the motor loses steps that's a sign that the drive needs to increase the torque as well as compensate for the steps already lost.
The torque is effected by the micro-stepping setting and I considered adjusting that on the fly. High micro-stepping under normal operation and then full-stepping under the greatest load. I don't remember what prevented this idea from being practical. Perhaps the drive needed to be power cycled for the change to take effect? Anyway, that may have been getting too Rube Goldberg anyway :) Apparently, some drives are smart about micro-stepping, and increase current slightly when micro-stepping to compensate for the torque lost. You sure are right about there being a lot of cool stuff out there to try.
Check out my most recent video: goo.gl/Jj7cU1
Updated conversion: th-cam.com/video/TPRQVCCYKaQ/w-d-xo.html
The SolidWorks model files can be downloaded from kvvcreates.com/sb1001_cnc_lathe/. Please let me know if you make your own or improve the design.
ahh you can mill on a lathe..remember this is.vintage how it was done back in day when yoi worked with what you had ..and manual skills
Great job. Congratulations. Please send me the sb1001 plans in SolidWorks. Tanks.
Sorry to be so slow releasing these. Please see if you can access kvvcreates.com/sb1001_cnc_lathe/ and let me know if you have any suggestions. Best wishes, Kent
great build.
Thanks for the comment. The conversion is probably not meant for production work, but it was fun to make. :)
if it works..it works :)
Is this spindle using an encoder? or how do you figure the RPM?? I'm thinking that you may be using one of those cheap Chinese three phase with an small VFD.....? Just trying to understand what you have done...
In this video I unfortunately didn't control the spindle speed beyond using the built-in adjustment knob. The displayed RPM is measured using a sensor and magnet on the spindle, and the displayed RPM is pretty accurate. I've not torn the spindle drive down, but I'm pretty sure it's a BLDC unit with encoder feedback. The low speed regulation is not great. I might try replacing the potentiometer. If driving the drive from a computer, one would simply send most likely 0-5VDC to the drive in place of the potentiometer to control the spindle speed. Also, if controlling from a computer, the spindle encoder should be replaced with a higher pulse-per-revolution one to better synchronize spindle with axis movement. I don't know if replacement drives are still available, but when they were from Grizzly the cost was insane. Someone replacing the drive on this lathe would be best to consider as you suggested. Thank you
By the way, you have a nice channel. I'm watching your toroid winding videos, very cool machine.
Great info my friend!
Your comments on the other video was the encouragement make this one, and try to get more information out. Thank you :)
:)
Hi there, First of all thanks nice video. How can you help me? I want to make special purpose 2 axis lathe type Cnc machine. My requirement is rpm of spindle speed is 10 - 300m and 2nd axis ball screw control by Cnc control with precision features for my operation is like threading. Please give me best solution. Thanks
Thank you for the question and faith that I could help you. Unfortunately, you should find someone with greater mechanical experience and able to thoroughly understand what your goal is. I wish you all the best of success. Your project sounds very interesting.
Kent VanderVelden thanks for your quick reply. It’s semi automatic Cnc spring coiling machine for thick wire.
Spindle axis for mendral rpm. And ball screw for pitch control according to requirements but precise
Compound slide control manually. Thanks
You might try using the gear train for the lead screw to multiply the torque the stepper motor provides. Then you can go back to the stock lead screw and half nut (as long as you keep the nut liberally lubricated).
The advantage of the ball screw is that the balls are always in compression so there is no back lash in the screw. You can get around this problem with a standard screw (or using the rack gear for that matter.. my bench lathe is within 0.001"/inch feed) by a little thoughtful programming. In the program you do what the manual machinist has to do... keep all the slack in one direction. For example if cutting right to left move the carriage to the right past the start point a distance you know exceeds the slack in the feed. Now the carriage is moved to the left (the cutting feed direction) to the start point of the next pass on the work. You would do the same for machining a feature like a snap ring groove to insure that it was located the correct distance from the end of the part.
That 3-d printer you have would be the cat's pajamas for making mold cores... then you could have your parts in cast iron.
These are all really great ideas. Thank you. Using the existing gear train never came to mind, and it makes a lot of sense. Could then use a non-stepper motor on the gear train, and mount a rotary encoder on the support end of the leadscrew. My program was really basic and before CAM software was practical. Now Fusion360 and LinuxCNC (or MachineKit) are a great combination for conversions. Using the 3D printed parts for mold casting is really intriguing. Tubalcain has several videos on aluminum casting, and he makes it look doable. I never had a reason to consider casting, but you have the right idea. Thank you again for the great suggestions.
Tubalcain's Foundry Videos: th-cam.com/play/PL69F982076354AC97.html
Very interesting. I've enjoyed Keith Rucker's video I've watched, and I'll go digging for the casting ones. I never would have considered approaching a foundry for a couple of parts. I figured one of the following three didn't belong: foundry, one part, reasonable price. (Sorry to respond late. TH-cam held your comment, maybe because of the link?) Thank you and best wishes
Your suggestion of using the 3d printed parts to make castings has stayed in my mind. I now have a foundry furnace and after some practice would like to follow your suggestion. I ordered MrPete's foundry videos to get started. Not sure what I'm in for, but I'm sure I'll learn a lot. :) Best wishes, Kent
hello my name is victor i speak to you from peru ... i would like to help me q tiepo of engines is using its characteristics and type of spindle lead shafts please
Hello Victor, it's wonderful to meet you. Are you wondering about the lathe or the CNC parts? The lathe specifications are at this link. Let me know if you need more details.
drive.google.com/open?id=1WbpSyD6TgAFWRCmKZv-1O3Cmnh3Vgnqj
Hi Mr Kent great job, please if it possible, you can send me the code for the arduino for the closed loop stepper motor control? thank very much.
Hi Stewart, sorry I don't have the code any longer. I've since converted the lathe to be LinuxCNC controlled. There are far better CNC implementation for Arduino than what I did. Sorry I could not help more :(
could you machine aluminum with this set up?
Probably, but I would not expect an accuracy that matches using the lathe manually. Nothing against the 3d parts, but the motors are little weak. A followup approach is better and is what I use today: th-cam.com/video/TPRQVCCYKaQ/w-d-xo.html
@@kentvandervelden i see but what if you use metal parts intead of 3d printed parts and get motors with stronger torque?
@@elsunshine9976 That would work more better. Check out the update video I referenced. Even that's pretty old. Always an update to do. Best wishes
@@kentvandervelden thks for the info love Stuff like this
are the mounts ABS
Yes, all the prints are ABS. That's the only material I used on the Makerbot. On a Taz5, I've used ABS and PLA, but have stuck with ABS, despite it not being as popular any more.
it is stronger..jsut smelly and should be ventilated
Hi! We are working on a project. We would like to ask what speed (rpm) did you use for your spindle.
Hi Jibsam, this spindle maxes out around 2600 rpm but should not be run faster than about 2200 rpm for long. I generally use constant surface speed with the max speed set to 2200 rpm. If your project is making a CNC lathe, consider guarding around the spindle. Dangerous bird nests of strings build up fast. Best of success to you!
@@kentvandervelden thank you so much for your help :D
what firmware you use for your arduino's projet?
can you share here..
+Teddy Kristiyan Hi Teddy, I just wrote something up. Nothing special and probably lost by now. The input format was not g-code and so not so too helpful in general. Others have done better making a Arduino CNC controller. My latest conversion of this lathe uses LinuxCNC.
awesome
Thank you Mohammad
what a nice south bend...which one is this? happy fourth
Happy July 4th to you as well! This is a South Bend SB1001, similar to the 8K's but sold by Grizzly who closed them out a year or two ago. www.southbendlathe.com/products/lathes/SB1001
If you are interested, in the video description are links to the 3D model of the lathe and mounts.
Hi, Kent! I already started my mini lathe conversion. I was able to keep the original lead screws. I still haven't tested the backlash compensation, but I'be implementing it in the next few days. Check this video out. (Is not in english, sorry) th-cam.com/video/8fPzSeyCA4g/w-d-xo.html
Hi Bruno, I just checked it out, and all looks great! Most of the time the auto-translations of the closed captions works well enough to fill in the pieces, and I like to hear other languages spoken. Peace
video was great , i loved it. made me subscribe and like. Who knows you might even look at some of my machining videos and return the favour.
Video is GREAT.
The machine is GREAT
The subject is GREAT
The purpose is GREAT
The method is GREAT
The work needed is GREAT
The price is Great
But.........................
The speed of your "rhetoric" is TOO dadgummed fast.
Please learn to slow down when teaching. It would make for outstanding videos. Oh indeed yes!
Thanks
+pat dee Thank you for the feedback. If you have a few more minutes, would you see if my more recent video on this lathe, using a CNC conversion kit is better?
Lead screw is bent, probably from a crash
Where in the video are you noticing this? Is the original or the replacement ACME screw in use? While even new ACME screws will not be perfect, and should be mapped with a indicator first, more likely you are seeing an issue with the crudeness of the 3D printed parts.
The saddle is held by tabs preventing the front or rear from rising from the bedways. The cross slide is held in place by the ways of the saddle. And the stepper motors are of so little power than I can stop them by hand. Sorry, I just don't see how a crash could bend either ACME screw, but thank you for your comment.
its easiest to see around 11:52 in the video. i suppose it could be related to the far end support of the screw not being totally in line, but i don't see as how that would give the illusion of run out as opposed to just being at an angle.
Oh, that pulsating away from the line of the bedways? That's for sure because of the crudeness of the 3D printed parts. I can't put that onto McMaster sending a bent ACME screw. But thanks for suggesting the leadscrew was bent instead of that my parts were wanky :) I got to get back to this project. I have a design ready to go in metal, but I do contract work, and I have to put in all the hours I can when work is available. Best wishes, Kent
i didn't know if you bought this lathe new. Def not under CNC power. But if you run the carriage into the chuck whilst threading you can definitely twist that screw up. Most screw mapping is for lead error not runout. I can def see McMaster sending a tweaked screw. Its actually not all that uncommon. You can pull the screw, put it between centers and confirm its truth fairly easily. But i don't doubt the wonkiness of printed parts. I print a lot of parts to proof my design before committing them to the cnc lathe.