Greg, I'm a DIY homeowner in Japan, and I've gotten enormous help from your video tips, so let me start with sincere thanks for all the work you've put into these videos. I have designed and or built two outdoor stairways, one with notched stringers, and the other with 2x4 PT wood cleat tread supports, (since the stringers there are 4x15 PT lambeams). I fastened the cleats with 12mm SS bolts. I've noticed your criticism of wood cleats particularly due to the potential for moisture and debris to accumulate in the contact between the cleat and the stringer (something that has concerned me as well). I haven't experienced much problem with the wood cleats themselves, but I have had serious rot problems with the treads, despite their being PT wood and the use of preservative stain (Xyladecor). I've already replaced the PT treads on the notched-stringer stairway with WRC, and am preparing to do the same on the other stairway (together with replacing the PT cleats there as well), leading to my question: do you think it would help to use 12mm (1/2") or so of SS washers or spacers between the cleats and stringers to allow water and debris to pass more easily without collecting? Barring that, I'm thinking of either using silicon sealant as suggested in this video, or adopting steel angle-iron brackets--but wouldn't they suffer the same problem of moisture/debris collection? I've got a big decision coming up, and being retired, I'd like to get the work done with least expense. Thanks for any advice.
I would like to see the stairs. Send me a picture and you can get out email address at the website. However, if all you need is a quick opinion, the gap will need to be cleaned to prevent debris from collecting there.
Hello Greg. My question is about using wood cleats exactly as you have shown here. However, in indoors on my carpet to oak treads and painted risers conversion. I will secure the treads from below using pocket hole screws to avoid face nail holes. The rise and run are being altered and I might like using cleats glued and screwed to the existing stringers instead of putting strips or shims on top of each horizontal stinger surface. The blocks or cleats can have the pocket holes in them whereas drilling pocket holes directly into the stringer is far trickier. Everything will be hidden, of course. Per usual, you cover the idea that the detail as of the blocks deployed are almost endless. I like a larger cleat for more glue area and more screws. I’m told the shear strength of good PVA glues is literally over 3000lbs per inch, so I think the glued/screwed cleats are way sufficient to hold up indefinitely. BTW, construction adhesive will be used along with pocket holes to secure the treads to the cleats. Q: if this approach sound and/or one you’ve seen used in the trade? If you’ve not done a video about the ways to modify the rise and run of existing stringers, please consider it. There is virtually nothing on YT. BTW, my stringers not perfectly consistent from step to step nor are they all level and plumb (risers). If they were, I’d consider cutting strips and attach to the stringers. There are are ways to secure the treads without drilling pocket holes in the stringers. Thanks.
There is a high probability that wood cleats would not be approved by engineers. However, using better lumber, screws and adhesives usually have been proven to make stairs stronger.
hello I'm a senior in California in a mobile home and I am in need of a set of 5 step stairs with handrails, could I build this and add some 4x4's with 2x4 handrails?l.....thanks
What do they call these types of stairs ? These don't have stringers . I'm genuinely asking because I don't know thank you to anyone who can answer me .
Greg, I'm a DIY homeowner in Japan, and I've gotten enormous help from your video tips, so let me start with sincere thanks for all the work you've put into these videos. I have designed and or built two outdoor stairways, one with notched stringers, and the other with 2x4 PT wood cleat tread supports, (since the stringers there are 4x15 PT lambeams). I fastened the cleats with 12mm SS bolts. I've noticed your criticism of wood cleats particularly due to the potential for moisture and debris to accumulate in the contact between the cleat and the stringer (something that has concerned me as well). I haven't experienced much problem with the wood cleats themselves, but I have had serious rot problems with the treads, despite their being PT wood and the use of preservative stain (Xyladecor). I've already replaced the PT treads on the notched-stringer stairway with WRC, and am preparing to do the same on the other stairway (together with replacing the PT cleats there as well), leading to my question: do you think it would help to use 12mm (1/2") or so of SS washers or spacers between the cleats and stringers to allow water and debris to pass more easily without collecting? Barring that, I'm thinking of either using silicon sealant as suggested in this video, or adopting steel angle-iron brackets--but wouldn't they suffer the same problem of moisture/debris collection? I've got a big decision coming up, and being retired, I'd like to get the work done with least expense. Thanks for any advice.
I would like to see the stairs. Send me a picture and you can get out email address at the website. However, if all you need is a quick opinion, the gap will need to be cleaned to prevent debris from collecting there.
Hello Greg. My question is about using wood cleats exactly as you have shown here. However, in indoors on my carpet to oak treads and painted risers conversion. I will secure the treads from below using pocket hole screws to avoid face nail holes. The rise and run are being altered and I might like using cleats glued and screwed to the existing stringers instead of putting strips or shims on top of each horizontal stinger surface. The blocks or cleats can have the pocket holes in them whereas drilling pocket holes directly into the stringer is far trickier. Everything will be hidden, of course. Per usual, you cover the idea that the detail as of the blocks deployed are almost endless.
I like a larger cleat for more glue area and more screws. I’m told the shear strength of good PVA glues is literally over 3000lbs per inch, so I think the glued/screwed cleats are way sufficient to hold up indefinitely. BTW, construction adhesive will be used along with pocket holes to secure the treads to the cleats.
Q: if this approach sound and/or one you’ve seen used in the trade?
If you’ve not done a video about the ways to modify the rise and run of existing stringers, please consider it. There is virtually nothing on YT. BTW, my stringers not perfectly consistent from step to step nor are they all level and plumb (risers). If they were, I’d consider cutting strips and attach to the stringers. There are are ways to secure the treads without drilling pocket holes in the stringers.
Thanks.
There is a high probability that wood cleats would not be approved by engineers. However, using better lumber, screws and adhesives usually have been proven to make stairs stronger.
@@stairbuilding Thank you.
hello I'm a senior in California in a mobile home and I am in need of a set of 5 step stairs with handrails, could I build this and add some 4x4's with 2x4 handrails?l.....thanks
I hope so, but maybe check with your mobile home park to verify.
Great video, Greg !
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks again for your support to our channel.
Seams I've seen this with all 2x12's. Possible?
Yes and it works sometimes.
What do they call these types of stairs ? These don't have stringers . I'm genuinely asking because I don't know thank you to anyone who can answer me .
Stringer with brackets. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/books/brackets.html
Try cutting a section out with a router
You said it right after I texted it
That was one of my first jobs routering all day.
We need a video on that