Jeff, my wife, and I have enjoyed every episode over coffee on Sunday mornings. Im feeling a bit like an expecting father paceing the waiting room. Looking forward to next week. Cheers to you and Mrs Jeff.
Good morning Mr & Mrs Jeff, After watching you for so long to get it where you are now, it is so thrilling, Hitchcock would love it. And still the thrill isn't over..... And again another week to wait.... Wow.... That's how it goes I would say if you try to bring a Beauty to breath. They allways play hard to get. But I know, her play is running out of time. Thank you Mr & Mrs Jeff for sharing all of it.
Fantastic job - so very close now after so much hard and highly skilled work! Bit surprised you’re cranking for oil pressure and leaving the plugs in. I was taught to always remove the plugs to give the bearings (and the starter!) a much easier time while they are still starved of oil.
10:13 (haven't watch the rest yet) You should get a "12v after contact" for the waterpump and fans. I don't know how to do that. Maybe throught the ECU. Or a relay with the alternator.
Firstly, congratulations of getting the car presentable for Time Attack! Are you sure the ECU is sending 12V+ to the fuel pump relay? Maybe its pulling to ground (my ECU does.) You can (and should) still use a timing light with CoP ignition to verify the first tooth angle. Some timing lights can detect the logic level signal, but you can also intercept the ignition output between the coil and the spark plug (that's what I did.) The first start is always a bit harrowing, but ever so satisfying when she fires up! BTW, I use the same method of "touch wood" - no harder wood than the old noggin' 🙂... Keep up the great work and good luck!
The Link he has can do pull to ground or output voltage (high side drive) depending on the aux output he's got it wired up to, but the amperage for high-side drive is much lower than pull to ground can handle so is it possible that might cause the relay to not activate?
I’ve been following this build two years, you’re definitely a great artist and mechanic. Persistent to quality and finish has been a great journey. Would love to meet you someday, Frank from Pennsylvania, USA.
Nice work. I'm surprised the ECU is set to "send" +12V power to the relay. Usually an ECU is the drain for it using a NPN power transistor and provides a ground for the control side of a fuel pump relay, but... maybe it is different.
Often when you crack ECUs or other power equipment open there's MOSFET or Power Transistor that when switched on provides a ground pathway to turn switch something on. So that becomes the question of WHY would he be seeing 12V? If one were testing the relay socket for the control wire going to the ECU (one like we've described - i.e. as is OE in just about every car I've seen) it would normally be OC, and only ground when cranking, a few seconds during first key on, or during running. IF the ECU provided power to the Fuel Pump relay, the FPRelay would have to have a permanent ground on one of it's control side pins. I guess Jeff just needs to double check the ECU wiring instructions on that circuit. @@har234908234
Jeff - getting closer every week!! Really like your use of the test probe as a safety interlock when first hooking up the electrical bits. I have to agree with your decision to hold off on having the PDR guy come out and fix the roof dent. My recommendation (based on my own restoration of a 1966 MGB to a very high standard) is to have the PDR guy come in at the very end of your restoration. As you continue to work on the car, there is a reasonable likelihood there will be other small dents that crop up and need fixing (leaning your elbows on top of the fenders is a great source of this - ask me how I know) and may as well get them all in one shot. Also, for your car lift, why not install limit switches on the posts so that it always has a minimum height above the jack bars at maximum lift (say 5' or so). With your skills, you should easily figure out where to install the limit switches and wire them in with a relay to your hydraulic pump. This is cheap insurance against having another event and can be adjusted if you work on a car that needs more clearance.
Shame you couldn't start it Jeff. But better to make sure everything is correct. .. Love the badges spot on. .. Really like to see how you personalize/match the gauges. .. You are quite right. Alfafarrari is quite small now its on the ground.. You did reconnect the + ve battery terminal? I know its really obvious as you were using the probe as a power bypass? .. Glad Mrs Jeff has recovered and is back. 👍...
What is it ……. “The last 10% usually takes the longest?” Or something like that. Car looks great and should be a handful. Glad to see Mrs. Jeff smiling and hopefully feeling better. Take care!
Great to see the progress and how you work through it all buddy, you’re so close! Congrats on the publicity too, awesome to see this build getting some much deserved love! Heal up fast Mrs Jeff 🙂🙏
Very nice car - great work - i really appreciate that you kept your bubu’s, doubts and fears in - it makes it real because there are just too many variables in a project like this to get it all right first time.
man, what a lot of tension this week, and even though you haven't quite figured it out, it was wonderful to hear that the engine has already been running.😅👍🏻
Look great Jeff. I'm hoping you drew a wiring schematic of the electrical as you built each circuit. That would surely aid you in chasing down the little issues.
Great progress Jeff 👏. You can use an ignition lead with the correct ends between the coil and plug to allow you to use a timing light to check the timing .
just as someone who builds harnesses, Looks like you using the DT connectors, Have a look at DTM, will save you a bit of space, which we can see is at a premium :P
16:50 the way you said "sounds strong" as if almost scared you gotta keep going 😅, I was nervous too! So exciting this episode and I haven't even finished yet! Thanks Jeff! Edit: ahaa, teething issues getting the ECU to understand the engine from new. I hope progress goes well these next few weeks, as my god software can be frustrating.
The way I oil up a newly built dry sump engine with internal pumps is to fill the dry sump tank up to the bottom of the aeration plate and then put a quantity of fresh oil in the engine such that it is just below the crank rotation. The engine is spun over without the plugs in to minimise the load on the dry bearings until the engine sees oil pressure. The tank is then topped off back to the aeration plate level and hopefully the engine will start. The amount of oil in the system up to this point should be sufficient to supply the bearings until the engine fires. Once the engine is running and up to temperature the oil level in the tank is monitored and topped off as necessary to the same point. After all this you will know how much oil is in the system and that can be replicated at every oil change. The important thing is not to overfill the dry sump tank because covering the aeration plate will generate too much air and bubbles in the system defeating one of the purposes of the dry sump system.
To use a timing light with Coil on plug, you can pull out coil nr 1 and use a short coil plug cable between the COP and plug where you connect the timing light sensor.
Jeff! Hotwire the fuel pump and let us all hear that bad boy fire up! You can figure out why it’s not getting 12v from the ECU later! I promise we’ll all watch that episode too!
Great project... I'm chicken about the wiring, so I do just the opposite on my motor swaps. I make sure the engine runs and circuits work outside the car and remove anything extraneous, then put it all in the car. So much easier to troubleshoot, but then again, wiring is my weakest skill lol.
Between starter and ignition switch (key) is there another switch? Possibly something like a neutral safety/clutch pedal depressed indicator switch which completes the circuit?
The first time I have strongly disagreed with your choice regarding the gauges. Would rather have seen Magneti Marelli(if available) or VDO gauges, the build is of such a high calibre that some classic high quality gauges would be my preference. You are the poster child for built not bought tough. Not that many able to do what you have done here.... God bless, and lots of love from Norway
Cant wait to hear it turn over. Im at exactly the same stage as this with my latest Fiat 500 resto,not the same league obviosly but the same exciting feeling of getting the power to everything and hearing it come back to life
I still think it would look Great with corner Bumpers like the MK1 Escourt at the Motor Show You went to could even paint then silver to match Your Steipes 😊😊😊
Hi Jeff, I noticed in the background how the ignition lock system is welded onto the column? Is there a video that covers that part of the build? I want to get the key onto the dash of my GT40 but also still need to maintain the ignition lock. Would love to know more. Keep up the great work champ. 😊
I absolutely love this car. Damn! Although I would take off the dated chrome and make it brushed like the wheels. It would look a lot more upto date and cohesive. Thanks
I'm not sure that you should use 98 in the that engine. 95 is a better option, as an Italian motorcycle owner all Ducati in Oz is recommended to us 95. I have personally found that using 98 the bike doesn't start so well. Plenty of info around regarding 98 , it's good for turbo/supercharged engines that can adjust the engine tune to suit the fuel. Plus have read that the amount of additives to make 98, the 98 has actually less BTUs than the 95. Something to be mindful for if the Ferrari V8 splutters on cold mornings Keep up the good work as I look forward to every episode 👍
Had to chuckle when you said "functioning as normal" (at about 10:21) while sitting in the front seat of a Ferrari powered Alfa Romeo with a good chunk of the wiring harness in your lap 😂
Hey Jeff n mrs Jeff, your work ethic is brilliant mate, love your thought process, so many choose to pay, it’s not hard to use our brain hey Jeff. Cheers big ears.👍👍👍👍
Jeff - I’m using the same ECU on my kit car. It has the 4.7L cross plane crank version of the Ferrari F136 in it, as used in Maserati and Alfas. Not exactly the same but might be handy. If you want the map you are more than welcome to it. Let me know.
I’ve seen others who have tried to adapt Ferrari and Maserati engines running issues like this, based around immobilizer or crankshaft sensors. Maybe start there. You have oil and spark so the obvious last thing is no fuel.
What took you so long Jeff! I was refreshing TH-cam for more then an hour waiting for the video😂
Jeff, my wife, and I have enjoyed every episode over coffee on Sunday mornings. Im feeling a bit like an expecting father paceing the waiting room. Looking forward to next week. Cheers to you and Mrs Jeff.
Getting close now Jeff 👍.
Great to see Mrs Jeff back again 🤗
Good morning Mr & Mrs Jeff,
After watching you for so long to get it where you are now, it is so thrilling, Hitchcock would love it. And still the thrill isn't over..... And again another week to wait.... Wow.... That's how it goes I would say if you try to bring a Beauty to breath. They allways play hard to get. But I know, her play is running out of time. Thank you Mr & Mrs Jeff for sharing all of it.
If you got it started straight away I'm not sure I'd have believed you. Good to see Mrs J. back.
Can't believe I've watched all these years and were finally seeing the light
Fantastic job - so very close now after so much hard and highly skilled work! Bit surprised you’re cranking for oil pressure and leaving the plugs in. I was taught to always remove the plugs to give the bearings (and the starter!) a much easier time while they are still starved of oil.
Jeff a dowell and some grinding paste to swirl that alu panel would look sweeeeet!
10:13 (haven't watch the rest yet) You should get a "12v after contact" for the waterpump and fans. I don't know how to do that. Maybe throught the ECU. Or a relay with the alternator.
Keep at it Jeff… you seem to be fearless, which is impressive. 🇨🇦
Congratulations on cranking it over! And so glad Mrs. Jeff is on the mend.
Firstly, congratulations of getting the car presentable for Time Attack! Are you sure the ECU is sending 12V+ to the fuel pump relay? Maybe its pulling to ground (my ECU does.) You can (and should) still use a timing light with CoP ignition to verify the first tooth angle. Some timing lights can detect the logic level signal, but you can also intercept the ignition output between the coil and the spark plug (that's what I did.) The first start is always a bit harrowing, but ever so satisfying when she fires up! BTW, I use the same method of "touch wood" - no harder wood than the old noggin' 🙂... Keep up the great work and good luck!
The Link he has can do pull to ground or output voltage (high side drive) depending on the aux output he's got it wired up to, but the amperage for high-side drive is much lower than pull to ground can handle so is it possible that might cause the relay to not activate?
Almost there! I feel your frustration through the video😂 Don't worry, Mate. Almost at the top of the mountain!
I’ve been following this build two years, you’re definitely a great artist and mechanic. Persistent to quality and finish has been a great journey. Would love to meet you someday, Frank from Pennsylvania, USA.
One more week! I can wait. Good to see Mrs. Jeff back on board!
I'm really glad you got to meet Mike Burrows and saw his Honda Powered Ferrari. You and Mike have many similar approaches to car builds.
Nice work. I'm surprised the ECU is set to "send" +12V power to the relay. Usually an ECU is the drain for it using a NPN power transistor and provides a ground for the control side of a fuel pump relay, but... maybe it is different.
Italian, so..... lol....
(Limited electronics knowledge here) Is the 12V that Jeff's seeing a control voltage for such a transistor?
Often when you crack ECUs or other power equipment open there's MOSFET or Power Transistor that when switched on provides a ground pathway to turn switch something on. So that becomes the question of WHY would he be seeing 12V? If one were testing the relay socket for the control wire going to the ECU (one like we've described - i.e. as is OE in just about every car I've seen) it would normally be OC, and only ground when cranking, a few seconds during first key on, or during running. IF the ECU provided power to the Fuel Pump relay, the FPRelay would have to have a permanent ground on one of it's control side pins. I guess Jeff just needs to double check the ECU wiring instructions on that circuit. @@har234908234
Jeff - getting closer every week!! Really like your use of the test probe as a safety interlock when first hooking up the electrical bits.
I have to agree with your decision to hold off on having the PDR guy come out and fix the roof dent. My recommendation (based on my own restoration of a 1966 MGB to a very high standard) is to have the PDR guy come in at the very end of your restoration. As you continue to work on the car, there is a reasonable likelihood there will be other small dents that crop up and need fixing (leaning your elbows on top of the fenders is a great source of this - ask me how I know) and may as well get them all in one shot.
Also, for your car lift, why not install limit switches on the posts so that it always has a minimum height above the jack bars at maximum lift (say 5' or so). With your skills, you should easily figure out where to install the limit switches and wire them in with a relay to your hydraulic pump. This is cheap insurance against having another event and can be adjusted if you work on a car that needs more clearance.
😊 you're getting close to start ghosebumps 😂❤
Enjoyed the in depth pre-start testing chap, most folk skip that (either doing it or showing it) 👍
My Mrs can't understand why I'm getting excited about a guy on TH-cam trying to start a car 😂
Thanks!
I wouldn't snip the wire for the dip stick, it might crack and snap. Can you flatten a section?
Shame you couldn't start it Jeff.
But better to make sure everything is correct.
..
Love the badges spot on.
..
Really like to see how you personalize/match the gauges.
..
You are quite right. Alfafarrari is quite small now its on the ground..
You did reconnect the + ve battery terminal?
I know its really obvious as you were using the probe as a power bypass?
..
Glad Mrs Jeff has recovered and is back.
👍...
What is it ……. “The last 10% usually takes the longest?” Or something like that. Car looks great and should be a handful. Glad to see Mrs. Jeff smiling and hopefully feeling better. Take care!
Damn that was soooo close. It's going to be a long week waiting for the next video.... Can't wait. 👍
Great to see the progress and how you work through it all buddy, you’re so close! Congrats on the publicity too, awesome to see this build getting some much deserved love! Heal up fast Mrs Jeff 🙂🙏
Thanks mate. It has definitely reinvigorated me :D
I can feel your excitement/nervousness! Over load! Haha😃 can’t wait to hear it running!
Very nice car - great work - i really appreciate that you kept your bubu’s, doubts and fears in - it makes it real because there are just too many variables in a project like this to get it all right first time.
It’s going to be an epic moment when it starts and I hope it’s next week 👍🏻🏴
man, what a lot of tension this week, and even though you haven't quite figured it out, it was wonderful to hear that the engine has already been running.😅👍🏻
Thanks Jeff, you are so very close now! Can't wait to hear it start. It's been a journey for sure. Love it ❤
👍💪✌
Look great Jeff. I'm hoping you drew a wiring schematic of the electrical as you built each circuit. That would surely aid you in chasing down the little issues.
Can't wait to hear it run and to see you drive it. Great job.😊
Great progress Jeff 👏. You can use an ignition lead with the correct ends between the coil and plug to allow you to use a timing light to check the timing .
You did put a foam pad on the beam you hit? Love this series. Keep it up. 😊
Hey Mrs Jeff, missed you on the last two episodes. Glad you're back 😉
just as someone who builds harnesses, Looks like you using the DT connectors, Have a look at DTM, will save you a bit of space, which we can see is at a premium :P
16:50 the way you said "sounds strong" as if almost scared you gotta keep going 😅, I was nervous too! So exciting this episode and I haven't even finished yet! Thanks Jeff! Edit: ahaa, teething issues getting the ECU to understand the engine from new. I hope progress goes well these next few weeks, as my god software can be frustrating.
Love this show so much ❤
So close now, great to see misses Jeff back and feeling better
I can't believe I've almost caught up on this series!
So close, nice job. So impressed with what you have done.
The way I oil up a newly built dry sump engine with internal pumps is to fill the dry sump tank up to the bottom of the aeration plate and then put a quantity of fresh oil in the engine such that it is just below the crank rotation. The engine is spun over without the plugs in to minimise the load on the dry bearings until the engine sees oil pressure. The tank is then topped off back to the aeration plate level and hopefully the engine will start. The amount of oil in the system up to this point should be sufficient to supply the bearings until the engine fires. Once the engine is running and up to temperature the oil level in the tank is monitored and topped off as necessary to the same point. After all this you will know how much oil is in the system and that can be replicated at every oil change. The important thing is not to overfill the dry sump tank because covering the aeration plate will generate too much air and bubbles in the system defeating one of the purposes of the dry sump system.
To use a timing light with Coil on plug, you can pull out coil nr 1 and use a short coil plug cable between the COP and plug where you connect the timing light sensor.
Slow and steady wind the race. Keep firing up. You will have a checkered flag 😊
Jeff! Hotwire the fuel pump and let us all hear that bad boy fire up! You can figure out why it’s not getting 12v from the ECU later! I promise we’ll all watch that episode too!
Great work mate. Good catching up the other day 👍🏻
Thanks for coming by mate.
Great timing!!!! Just popped in to see how you were going.
Great project... I'm chicken about the wiring, so I do just the opposite on my motor swaps. I make sure the engine runs and circuits work outside the car and remove anything extraneous, then put it all in the car. So much easier to troubleshoot, but then again, wiring is my weakest skill lol.
Between starter and ignition switch (key) is there another switch? Possibly something like a neutral safety/clutch pedal depressed indicator switch which completes the circuit?
She is breathing!!! Congrats Jeff (and Mrs Jeff)!!!
Can’t wait to here that Ferrari motor sing mate you’re doing a terrific job.
The first time I have strongly disagreed with your choice regarding the gauges. Would rather have seen Magneti Marelli(if available) or VDO gauges, the build is of such a high calibre that some classic high quality gauges would be my preference. You are the poster child for built not bought tough. Not that many able to do what you have done here.... God bless, and lots of love from Norway
Progress none the less. What a relief it did crank though hey?
Looking forward to the next update
Awesome job!!! Absolutely love the car, well done you for not rushing it and just doing it right!
welcome back Mrs Jeff
Cant wait to hear it turn over. Im at exactly the same stage as this with my latest Fiat 500 resto,not the same league obviosly but the same exciting feeling of getting the power to everything and hearing it come back to life
I still think it would look Great with corner Bumpers like the MK1 Escourt at the Motor Show You went to could even paint then silver to match Your Steipes 😊😊😊
I hope that Mrs. Jeff feels better.
Hi Jeff, I noticed in the background how the ignition lock system is welded onto the column? Is there a video that covers that part of the build? I want to get the key onto the dash of my GT40 but also still need to maintain the ignition lock. Would love to know more. Keep up the great work champ. 😊
Couple of months back. The steering lock does not work as it is the Alfa barrel on the Toyota column.
@@HomeBuiltByJeff is it “Alfoyota #174”. I watched that one in the past by the looks of it. Will have to look at it again.
Well done mate, be great to hear it roar.....
Tuned in with anticipation, while working on my project Corrado, let see if she runs
I absolutely love this car. Damn! Although I would take off the dated chrome and make it brushed like the wheels. It would look a lot more upto date and cohesive. Thanks
I'm not sure that you should use 98 in the that engine. 95 is a better option, as an Italian motorcycle owner all Ducati in Oz is recommended to us 95.
I have personally found that using 98 the bike doesn't start so well.
Plenty of info around regarding 98 , it's good for turbo/supercharged engines that can adjust the engine tune to suit the fuel. Plus have read that the amount of additives to make 98, the 98 has actually less BTUs than the 95. Something to be mindful for if the Ferrari V8 splutters on cold mornings
Keep up the good work as I look forward to every episode 👍
Had to chuckle when you said "functioning as normal" (at about 10:21) while sitting in the front seat of a Ferrari powered Alfa Romeo with a good chunk of the wiring harness in your lap 😂
Great video mate nearly there 👌👌👌
those wheels are nice, suits it well!
Yep, they're lovely.
Hey Jeff n mrs Jeff, your work ethic is brilliant mate, love your thought process, so many choose to pay, it’s not hard to use our brain hey Jeff. Cheers big ears.👍👍👍👍
always terrifying starting a build like this. Good to sleep on it
Good job man!!!!!.... We wait 😅😅😅...
An Italian!!!!👏👏👏🇮🇹🇮🇹🇮🇹🇮🇹🇮🇹
Well my ears tell me that the engine compression sounds even, so healthy!
01:30 Make a similar dent on the other side and sell it as a 'special option' which was chosen only once back then. 😎 22:24 AAAH!!! Phew...
Typical dry sump level is about 2/3 of the tank with the engine running.
Fuck yeah… love this stage of the build. Wiring stuff up is so good
Waiting to hear the full Orchestra Jef👂🎼
I’m so happy for ya. Where can I get his definition photos off your yellow beauty
Hi
Nice job
I would like to know what are the gauges you are using for oil
Raceworks oil pressure and fuel level (in the oil tank).
Oooh, so close now Jeff!
Jeff - I’m using the same ECU on my kit car. It has the 4.7L cross plane crank version of the Ferrari F136 in it, as used in Maserati and Alfas. Not exactly the same but might be handy. If you want the map you are more than welcome to it. Let me know.
Thanks for the offer, but that is a completely different engine to this one so it won't really help me.
Awesome 👍🏽 getting closer 🤗
I’ve seen others who have tried to adapt Ferrari and Maserati engines running issues like this, based around immobilizer or crankshaft sensors. Maybe start there. You have oil and spark so the obvious last thing is no fuel.
Love it Jeff? How many more “will it start” videos are we to have before it really starts? 🤣🤣🤣
Poor Mrs Jeff!😕Dental surgery is the worst!
Oh BTW - Jeff, nice work on getting it to crank!👍
10L... that a lot of oil!
The starter, sounds like a toyota! :D
Good job guys 👍. Cheers
O tradutor interpretou o som da partida, como aplausos, não deixa de ser .
Parabéns 👏🏻
Car is looking awesome
Not yet!!!
C’mon Jeff, you can do it 😎
Come on mr Jeff 😅 i was child when you start this car project and now i am 33 years old 😂😂😂
Can't wait for your great build ❤
You haven’t set up the air conditioner system yet🤷🏼♂️
Almost there 🤙🤞
So clos m8....very exciting.....cant wait to hear her fire...
Cary
Nz
Very exciting to hear the Ferrari engine crank over!!!!
Woke up early for this!
Now you are starting took at things and the body is finished, please put some protection over the wings.
Looking good 👍
Maté it’s great 😊 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
This is awesome!!
Been waiting for this one 🎉🍿
Sooo close! Can’t wait 👏🏻
Not long now :D
Oh so close........
Next time 🤞