Should have left it, rough country makes some blocks that are meant to be used with the stock ones. It's not unsafe to stack blocks that are under 2 inches each. Now if you stacked a 3 and a 2 that would be concerning.
All you had to do is get some flat metal and bolt them together and keep 3 inch mine is don't that way and never ever had issue I pull trailer off road and all . I refuse to drop the back
Also just so you know your rear fender size is not the same as your front fender size so measuring from the wheel to the fender is not going to give you level of not. GM trucks have a ~2.5in rake. 3.5 in the front and 1 in the rear and your level, i believe the RC blocks are 1.25 resulting in a -.25 rake to the front.
I don't see the problem using both the stock block and the one from the kit... I would definitely use a torque wrench when tightening the u bolts.!!! Re torque after about 500-1000 miles.
I went round and round with rough country. I have the same lift. There 2wd lifts come with the secondary blocks. The 4wd lift has solid blocks. You had it on right. I did the same thing.
Unless you're doing some serious off-roading the Stacked blocks would have been just fine, You want to check the torque on those u-bolts after you've driven it for a while,
The stock truck comes higher in the rear ! In order to "level" it a smaller lift is added to the back to compensate and create an even look on the body lines. Use an actual level on the box rail to check this (fenders don't necessarily have the same cut and are not a good place to find a level measurement)
Im a lift technician i install rough country kits on a daily basis... Dont stack blocks ontop of eachother... And one you tighten ur u bolts dont reuse them...there a one time use only...
I have many friends that work at rough country and have visited the plant they make them so you stack the blocks on one another for the vehicle to be level.
The spacing on the front is going to be larger than the rear because the genders are designed to clear the tires at a raked stance, look at a stock one. If you just leave those blocks in it is level, your fender wells are not the way to tell if it is level, just park it on flat ground and you’ll see
I heard that rough country is coming out with a bracket kit to fix all of the upper control arm and ball joint issues, especially for the ‘07-‘13 Silverado. Just thought I’d pass the info on.
you are supposed to use the Blocks they sent you with your stock blocks that's why it's called a leveling kit it adds to what you have already under the truck they did not send the wrong blocks you just don't know how to install them right that's why the blocks fit together
Oahu, yeah? We’re Big Islanders. Definitely need to get the 3” blocks installed. I agree with some of the previous comments - think you should replace the u-bolts each time if practical. And trim most of the excess. They’d definitely get torn up on our lava rock!
The first time was correct. Some kits require of use of the factory block. You never double stack aftermarket blocks.. Fabtechs 4in kit requires to use the oe block along with there block.
My BDS kit gave me 2" blocks to add to the stock block on my 94 f150. And clearly says to stack the blocks in the instructions. BDS is one of the top companies in the game and if they say to stack them then I dont have an issue stacking them. You can definitely stack two short blocks together.
You don't need power tools To REINSTALL SUSPENSION PARTS. Taking it apart would be faster, but suspension parts are torque sensitive. You don't want to over tighten. Invest in a good torque wrench, 90-98 ft pounds on your ubolts, after a week you'll need to tighten them again.
You don't measure level at the center of the wheel well. Usually, (maybe not all, but definitely most) vehicles have different sized front wheel wells than the rear. This allows for suspension travel while turning. The rear doesn't need the same amount of space because the wheel travels in a static, verticle path. The front wheel wells need to accommodate all that travel while also accommodating the swing radius of the wheels/tires. The only guaranteed way to measure level is ground to the frame rail. Although, you usually can measure ground to the bottom edge of the body panel, too.
You should only use your u bolts once and need to be torqued to specs. Also cut off the remaining bolt. Most u bolts are sent longer then needed. When torqued to specs or tighten it deforms the threads some. If you take' m off and on you might not get' m fully tighten
I agree that normally you should not re-use the U-bolts; however, in this case, he is tightening the nuts further down along the threads to accommodate the removed factory block so he doesn’t have to be concerned with having the bolt stretched within this portion of the threads. If he were to replace the block with something else in the future, he should definitely use new U-bolts at that time. I agree 100% that he should cut the ends of the bolts so he could have put a torque wrench on them to ensure they are tightened to spec.
they give you a torque value so that you don't stretch the threads...... threads stretch when over tightened... if your tiny arms manage to stretch the threads then your using cheese grade U-Bolts fresh off the boat from china... and FFS always use never-seize.. and do not ever lift your 5000lb truck by the rear differential housing like honestly f***in amateurs .. its cast steel that's paper thin
Nate there’s nothing wrong with lifting a truck by the diff. It’s cast steel 1/4-1/2” thick and very capable of supporting the full weight of that truck. Where the hell did you get paper thin? Fuckin TH-cam mechanics. Get off the forums and actually turn a wrench.
Love these videos, I just installed my rough country 3.5" lift on my 2015 Silverado and received 3" blocks for the rear. Strange that they sent you those blocks.
You measure level on your truck from the ground to the start of the wheel well. The shorter block on your 2WD kit will make you level at the box frame of your bed, adjusting for the factory designed rake of the truck. Since you were tightening on the previously unused prtion of your u-bolts you should be good unless the nuts are nylon insert locking nuts. I did the same thing to an 07 Silverado I had in Hawaii before I got out of the military. With the stacked blocks, my wheel wells had the same clearance, but the truck had a squatted look from the cab being about 1.5" higher than the back. Good video man.
I bought a 2013 z71 new. Never had it in mud & at 111k miles the transmission & transfer case went out at the same time. contacted the dealer and gm. They did not care at all lol. So I had to fix it out of pocket & soon as that was done I traded it in on a Toyota Tundra. Mpg sucks but the truck is 10x better than anything else on the road.
I know video is old, but wasn’t easier 3.5 in front and 2 1/2 inc rear block. Always 1 inch lower in the rear. If u do 4 inch front also do 3 inch rear for a nice level
Could you tell me the current set up on suspension lift/level you have on your truck. I have a 2011 and looking to start work on getting stuff together and I really like what you have done with your Silverado. Any advice / recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks
I have the same truck with the same lift kit. You had it installed correctly the first time. When I ordered that kit I added the solid 3in blocks and it’s way better than double stacking. Rough Country wants you to double stack them for non 4x4 trucks. If it came with solid 3in blocks the kit would cost more.
Rough Country sent me wrong stuff like 3 times for a 2in lift kit...kit for wrong vehicle, then got the complete wrong shocks!! Never ordering from that piece of shit company ever again! Nothing but a scam
I'm still trying to figure out how your old set up was unsafe.you have both blocked shacked down and both blocks have location holes.i think you just like the squat boy life and don't wanna let anyone know 😅😅
I hope by now you have some tools. Only thing I can say. It could be worse! You could be in a Northern State main side in mid January 15 degrees outside and not much more than that in the garage.
If I where you I would contact rc for your 3 inch blocks because their must have been sum type of mistake with your kit cause you should have received 3 inch blocks for the rear, and I would recommend you get the rc upper control arm for better ball joint angles
Lift kits and leveling kits are a preference. I'm not a fan of the squatty potty look or the level look.Especially when you have to pull a trailer. Factory rake is my preference with a 3 inch lift or higher again it is personal preference.
Looks like you already had it leveled so you should've left it alone. My stock Silverado came with an about 1 1/2" difference from rear to front in height. In other words had a 1 1/2" rake in the front (lower) I put in 1 1/2" shock spacer in the front which in essence "leveled" it. Here's what I figured out. If you want to lift your truck but keep it level. Whoever much you lift in the front you need to add 1 1/2 inches more to the back. The reason trucks come with a slight rake in the front is to accommodate for a load in the back. If load up your truck bed with the stock rake it will level out and won't look like the back is sagging.
The Tennessee tilt lol. Georgia squat Cali lean but if you read the directions ruff county tells you to stack the blocks. I know it’s wrong. I order the lift over the phone and I ask them to swap the blocks out and they did for me.
It is the wrong kit not wrong blocks. If you buy the cheap 2wd kit you get the short blocks. Why does everyone who does not spend the money for the right kit blame it on RC for the wrong blocks. IDIOTS!
You got it right at first some times they send that block and you have to use both I but that cali lean looks good and that's why you have to use the 2 blocks
I would've left it like you had it, i bought an inch taller block and did away with my rough country block because I haul a trailer when I mow so it helps with the load. The front upper ball joints go bad frequently, might want to get better ball joints pressed in for this lift kit. The mechanics also tryed what you did and the u bolts were too short so idk how you did it, they asked how it was a 3.5 inch lift if the stock block had to come out. Car drivers are going to hate you now because your headlights will be in their face instead of on the road where they belong.
Umm I never understood measuring fender wells because if look close enough you'll realize they are cut to different depths. Meaure frame to ground front and rear in between the axles.
You should put that 3 inch lift on that el camino, Mojave desert pre runner is not bulldog look, looks great, headlamps work better, and front lifted for all that weight up there, you won't be offloading or RACING with a load of furniture or cement blocks. Also haul ass and hit brakes hard on wet surface or sand or gravel and that bulldog stance will save your ass with control and braking stability. The level truck or high in rear will put you in danger on emergency braking or extreme stopping. By the way nice baby stroller hauler, oh and cute baby too!!!
The lift you should have used is an Off Road Design lift kit. It is designed to replace and correct the issues that a block system creates. Axle wrap is a real issue that is created by blocks. You can mitigate some of the problem of axle wrap by having your local machine shop build some blocks that are about six inches on each side of the axle and that will reduce the problem. The added advantage of the longer blocks is that they allow the spring to work better than with the small blocks.
I had 6 inch blocks on my obs tahoe and i beat the crap out of it. Never had axle wrap at all. Axle wrap only occurs with much more torque and improper pinion angle.
It's not level because your truck has 3 leaf springs, you can order 5 and 8 leaf kits for it. Mine also has the 3 so I'm thinking of ordering 8 leafs since I tow once in a while.
My truck had the same leveling kit on in when I bought it. It was stacked on top of the stock block as well. Don't really think it's unsafe.. either way it's not on my truck anymore.
Well I’m sure that truck is a concrete baby so don’t really see the problem with leaving the the blocks stacked. And I’m pretty sure In the direction of that kit it says to stacked them for the truck to be level
If the blocks are both STEEL you could have them welded together to make a 3" block. But make sure the taper is in the correct direction. The taper's job should be to point the pinion UP in the front rather than DOWN towards the ground.
Now when I leveled my tahoe,.. I got lvl kit and it was same way. 3in front, 2in. rear that's why it's called leveling kit. So the front doesn't look sagging down lower . I think it suppose to be that way.. Maybe I'm wrong, look on Amazon at lvl kit it's same 3 front, 2 rear.. However could depend on the brand too.. Idk for sure...
dude get some air tools. i did the 2.5 level / lift by hand and i couldn't even move the next day. when i did my 7" lift i had airtools with a 60 gallon compressor, what a difference,
Cut the bolts and a power impact with deep sockets...got to have power tools if you own a truck...thats a must seeing that chevy is gonna be breaking down a whole dam lot in the future...
Get a Milwaukee impact. I paid $400 for mine with 2 battery’s and charger, and $100 more for Tekton metric and SAE deep well impact sockets, extensions and adapters
Rough country kits are always raked go by the frame the front fender opening comes up higher then the rear so with the same gap the front of the truck looks down hill drives me crazy
You should have ordered the correct height block before doing anything if you wanted one single block without stacking them. It was already at the correct height stacked.
I am getting a rough country suspension lift My self the 3.5 inch lift and it says it is coming with 3 inch rear blocks maybe they Sent you the wrong blocks
I hope those weren't nylon locking nuts because you just made your truck that much on safer when you take those on loosen nylon locking nuts like those look like you're ruining the locking mechanism for that nut
Your leaf springs are squat so the truck is not at the right ride hight before the lift The truck should be 2 inches higher in the back than the front at full stock
I install rc lift kits every day for the past 9 years. The 1 1/2 blocks for the rear are correct for the kit. To level the truck it takes 2 1/2 in the front with nothing in the rear, so when you go 3 1/2 in the front technically it puts it 1 inch high in the front. So the factory blocks are 1 inch and the new blocks are angled and 2 inches in the high side there fore making it look level to the eye when standing back. The back 90% of the time is 2 - 2 1/2 higher from the factory on most trucks.
Thought the same for my 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT but I just measured before buying a kit and it's actually only 1 in lower in the front for some reason lol
Looks good! Love the blue coil overs. I agree need a 3" block. Is that the complete bolt on kit by RC? I'm looking at doing the same for my tundra. And going to start my own channel! Are you military?
You could have saved yourself a ton or headache and future rust repair and bought a Raptor.
BEST COMMENT YET! Anyone else second the Raptor idea?
not really. a Raptor will rust just as bad as a GM....just depends on what part of the country you're in and weather conditions...
no.... that was a douche bag comment.
@@pat14lang hows aluminum gonna rust? pls explain
chassis is not aluminum..... that' s what i was referring to.
Should have left it, rough country makes some blocks that are meant to be used with the stock ones. It's not unsafe to stack blocks that are under 2 inches each. Now if you stacked a 3 and a 2 that would be concerning.
They are meant to stack dude...
Too much introduction
Jfc that's 15 mins of my life I'll never get back
For real and did we really need a cut of him turning his truck around?
@@ThisManTriggeredMe you wouldn’t have done nothing with it anyways besides pick your nose
All you had to do is get some flat metal and bolt them together and keep 3 inch mine is don't that way and never ever had issue I pull trailer off road and all . I refuse to drop the back
Also just so you know your rear fender size is not the same as your front fender size so measuring from the wheel to the fender is not going to give you level of not. GM trucks have a ~2.5in rake. 3.5 in the front and 1 in the rear and your level, i believe the RC blocks are 1.25 resulting in a -.25 rake to the front.
I don't see the problem using both the stock block and the one from the kit... I would definitely use a torque wrench when tightening the u bolts.!!! Re torque after about 500-1000 miles.
I went round and round with rough country. I have the same lift. There 2wd lifts come with the secondary blocks. The 4wd lift has solid blocks. You had it on right. I did the same thing.
What all would I need for this kit man just curious.....
Unless you're doing some serious off-roading the Stacked blocks would have been just fine,
You want to check the torque on those u-bolts after you've driven it for a while,
It was correct the first time. The rough country blocks are meant to be used with the stock blocks.
Not at all stacking blocks is not a good idea and illegal in a lot of states.
The stock truck comes higher in the rear ! In order to "level" it a smaller lift is added to the back to compensate and create an even look on the body lines. Use an actual level on the box rail to check this (fenders don't necessarily have the same cut and are not a good place to find a level measurement)
I just bought an old Chevrolet Avalanche 2004. And I have a lot to do! Good luck with everything! Greetings from Russia!
I have a 2010. Same color. I also have the 3.5 inch R/C lift. Mine came with the correct blocks. No issues with mine.
What size tires can you fit??
Im a lift technician i install rough country kits on a daily basis... Dont stack blocks ontop of eachother... And one you tighten ur u bolts dont reuse them...there a one time use only...
You need a shorter introduction. And a higher lift in the back 😂
Not gonna lie. That soccer goal added in made me laugh.
good video..... but ... 8:19 is a flag on the wall.....where to get that???
Wrong block, you should email or call them
I have many friends that work at rough country and have visited the plant they make them so you stack the blocks on one another for the vehicle to be level.
The spacing on the front is going to be larger than the rear because the genders are designed to clear the tires at a raked stance, look at a stock one. If you just leave those blocks in it is level, your fender wells are not the way to tell if it is level, just park it on flat ground and you’ll see
I heard that rough country is coming out with a bracket kit to fix all of the upper control arm and ball joint issues, especially for the ‘07-‘13 Silverado. Just thought I’d pass the info on.
you are supposed to use the Blocks they sent you with your stock blocks that's why it's called a leveling kit it adds to what you have already under the truck they did not send the wrong blocks you just don't know how to install them right that's why the blocks fit together
Terry Haynes I’m gonna get this lift kit on my 2018 silverado I should leave the stock block
Aloha Hawaiian love the channel 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Oahu, yeah? We’re Big Islanders. Definitely need to get the 3” blocks installed. I agree with some of the previous comments - think you should replace the u-bolts each time if practical. And trim most of the excess. They’d definitely get torn up on our lava rock!
You had it right the first time
You NEVER stack blocks. Anyone that knows anything about suspension knows that.
The first time was correct. Some kits require of use of the factory block. You never double stack aftermarket blocks.. Fabtechs 4in kit requires to use the oe block along with there block.
It was fine the way it was
it looked better with both blocks for sure
My BDS kit gave me 2" blocks to add to the stock block on my 94 f150. And clearly says to stack the blocks in the instructions. BDS is one of the top companies in the game and if they say to stack them then I dont have an issue stacking them. You can definitely stack two short blocks together.
@ 7:39, looks like the u-bolt (left on the screen) isn't seated in the right place on top of the leaf spring?
Try adding a leaf too the back. Will give a little lift and stiffer rear end.
Terry Armond adding a leaf would make it ride like shit. Unless you're towing 5 out of 7 days a week it makes no sense to add a leaf
Daniel Serra I have one On mine and I have no problem.. But to me a truck is a truck. Not for just for looking pretty.
Ive added one to mine aswell, it tows way better now but empty it rides like a tank
You don't need power tools To REINSTALL SUSPENSION PARTS. Taking it apart would be faster, but suspension parts are torque sensitive. You don't want to over tighten. Invest in a good torque wrench, 90-98 ft pounds on your ubolts, after a week you'll need to tighten them again.
You don't measure level at the center of the wheel well. Usually, (maybe not all, but definitely most) vehicles have different sized front wheel wells than the rear. This allows for suspension travel while turning. The rear doesn't need the same amount of space because the wheel travels in a static, verticle path. The front wheel wells need to accommodate all that travel while also accommodating the swing radius of the wheels/tires. The only guaranteed way to measure level is ground to the frame rail. Although, you usually can measure ground to the bottom edge of the body panel, too.
Interesting. My '15 leveling kit only included adding to the front to level off the Rake.
How big are your tires? You’re not that far off stock, do they not rub?
Tires 33x12.5 - had to do a mini-norcal to clear on the back side.
You should only use your u bolts once and need to be torqued to specs. Also cut off the remaining bolt. Most u bolts are sent longer then needed. When torqued to specs or tighten it deforms the threads some. If you take' m off and on you might not get' m fully tighten
I agree that normally you should not re-use the U-bolts; however, in this case, he is tightening the nuts further down along the threads to accommodate the removed factory block so he doesn’t have to be concerned with having the bolt stretched within this portion of the threads. If he were to replace the block with something else in the future, he should definitely use new U-bolts at that time. I agree 100% that he should cut the ends of the bolts so he could have put a torque wrench on them to ensure they are tightened to spec.
they give you a torque value so that you don't stretch the threads...... threads stretch when over tightened... if your tiny arms manage to stretch the threads then your using cheese grade U-Bolts fresh off the boat from china... and FFS always use never-seize.. and do not ever lift your 5000lb truck by the rear differential housing like honestly f***in amateurs .. its cast steel that's paper thin
Nate there’s nothing wrong with lifting a truck by the diff. It’s cast steel 1/4-1/2” thick and very capable of supporting the full weight of that truck. Where the hell did you get paper thin?
Fuckin TH-cam mechanics. Get off the forums and actually turn a wrench.
Your silverado looks good with the 2 inch blocks , gives it a good stance , well done .
Love these videos, I just installed my rough country 3.5" lift on my 2015 Silverado and received 3" blocks for the rear. Strange that they sent you those blocks.
Hey bud, is upper control arm hitting the bumb stop??
You measure level on your truck from the ground to the start of the wheel well. The shorter block on your 2WD kit will make you level at the box frame of your bed, adjusting for the factory designed rake of the truck. Since you were tightening on the previously unused prtion of your u-bolts you should be good unless the nuts are nylon insert locking nuts. I did the same thing to an 07 Silverado I had in Hawaii before I got out of the military. With the stacked blocks, my wheel wells had the same clearance, but the truck had a squatted look from the cab being about 1.5" higher than the back. Good video man.
I bought a 2013 z71 new. Never had it in mud & at 111k miles the transmission & transfer case went out at the same time. contacted the dealer and gm. They did not care at all lol. So I had to fix it out of pocket & soon as that was done I traded it in on a Toyota Tundra. Mpg sucks but the truck is 10x better than anything else on the road.
I know video is old, but wasn’t easier 3.5 in front and 2 1/2 inc rear block. Always 1 inch lower in the rear. If u do 4 inch front also do 3 inch rear for a nice level
Could you tell me the current set up on suspension lift/level you have on your truck. I have a 2011 and looking to start work on getting stuff together and I really like what you have done with your Silverado. Any advice / recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks
I have the same truck with the same lift kit. You had it installed correctly the first time. When I ordered that kit I added the solid 3in blocks and it’s way better than double stacking. Rough Country wants you to double stack them for non 4x4 trucks. If it came with solid 3in blocks the kit would cost more.
front raised higher than the rear = Squat not bull dog
I subscribed so you can get some tools.
He should have a shop by now. 25k subscribers
With the rear blocks looking the same size from stock to rough country, what's the point of switching blocks in the rear?
I just installed that kit last week. They definitely sent you the wrong lift blocks.
ron revis it is correct for the 2wd kit the 4wd kit comes with the 3" blocks
Rough Country sent me wrong stuff like 3 times for a 2in lift kit...kit for wrong vehicle, then got the complete wrong shocks!! Never ordering from that piece of shit company ever again! Nothing but a scam
i got this lift on my 16 and the rear blocks are 3 inches or so. you got the wrong ones if your 4x4
His kit is correct because it's a 2wd
It's 2wd should have just stuck with the front level and been done.
The u bolts are long because they’re meant to be cut an inch or so below the nut once the nut is fully torqued down
harbor frieght or any where else power drill or small compact adapter will help and Gear Wrench pass thru sockets are amazing
It’s not a leveling kit if you add blocks to the back. It’s a lift and level.
Apparently he doesn't know the difference
I'm still trying to figure out how your old set up was unsafe.you have both blocked shacked down and both blocks have location holes.i think you just like the squat boy life and don't wanna let anyone know 😅😅
I hope by now you have some tools.
Only thing I can say. It could be worse! You could be in a Northern State main side in mid January 15 degrees outside and not much more than that in the garage.
If I where you I would contact rc for your 3 inch blocks because their must have been sum type of mistake with your kit cause you should have received 3 inch blocks for the rear, and I would recommend you get the rc upper control arm for better ball joint angles
That’s the plan. Thanks!
Only the 4wd kit comes with the 3" blocks
Lift kits and leveling kits are a preference. I'm not a fan of the squatty potty look or the level look.Especially when you have to pull a trailer. Factory rake is my preference with a 3 inch lift or higher again it is personal preference.
Looks like you already had it leveled so you should've left it alone. My stock Silverado came with an about 1 1/2" difference from rear to front in height. In other words had a 1 1/2" rake in the front (lower) I put in 1 1/2" shock spacer in the front which in essence "leveled" it. Here's what I figured out. If you want to lift your truck but keep it level. Whoever much you lift in the front you need to add 1 1/2 inches more to the back. The reason trucks come with a slight rake in the front is to accommodate for a load in the back. If load up your truck bed with the stock rake it will level out and won't look like the back is sagging.
You shouldnt have a california lift "prerunner" look with that lift kit. Im fairly sure they sent you the wrong blocks for the rear.
TheSpartanPaul it's called the carolina squat
Ive heard it called 5 or 6 different things.
The Tennessee tilt lol. Georgia squat Cali lean but if you read the directions ruff county tells you to stack the blocks. I know it’s wrong. I order the lift over the phone and I ask them to swap the blocks out and they did for me.
It is the wrong kit not wrong blocks. If you buy the cheap 2wd kit you get the short blocks. Why does everyone who does not spend the money for the right kit blame it on RC for the wrong blocks. IDIOTS!
You got it right at first some times they send that block and you have to use both I but that cali lean looks good and that's why you have to use the 2 blocks
I hope you power tools now, but why didn't reuse the bolt u- bolts?
Instead of the block on back I suggest doing an add a leaf instead. If you tow trailers it will perform better.
you said this would not be good for offroading. Does this kit make the truck better, equal, or worse for offroading than it would be if it was stock?
I would've left it like you had it, i bought an inch taller block and did away with my rough country block because I haul a trailer when I mow so it helps with the load. The front upper ball joints go bad frequently, might want to get better ball joints pressed in for this lift kit. The mechanics also tryed what you did and the u bolts were too short so idk how you did it, they asked how it was a 3.5 inch lift if the stock block had to come out. Car drivers are going to hate you now because your headlights will be in their face instead of on the road where they belong.
Dang that truck is looking mean and clean!!!
Umm I never understood measuring fender wells because if look close enough you'll realize they are cut to different depths. Meaure frame to ground front and rear in between the axles.
I have the same year same color Silverado and I love your build great vid you earned a subscriber
Appreciate the support! Thanks for watching
You should put that 3 inch lift on that el camino, Mojave desert pre runner is not bulldog look, looks great, headlamps work better, and front lifted for all that weight up there, you won't be offloading or RACING with a load of furniture or cement blocks.
Also haul ass and hit brakes hard on wet surface or sand or gravel and that bulldog stance will save your ass with control and braking stability. The level truck or high in rear will put you in danger on emergency braking or extreme stopping.
By the way nice baby stroller hauler, oh and cute baby too!!!
The lift you should have used is an Off Road Design lift kit. It is designed to replace and correct the issues that a block system creates. Axle wrap is a real issue that is created by blocks.
You can mitigate some of the problem of axle wrap by having your local machine shop build some blocks that are about six inches on each side of the axle and that will reduce the problem. The added advantage of the longer blocks is that they allow the spring to work better than with the small blocks.
I had 6 inch blocks on my obs tahoe and i beat the crap out of it. Never had axle wrap at all. Axle wrap only occurs with much more torque and improper pinion angle.
So why’d you take the blocks out? What’s the safety issue?
It's not level because your truck has 3 leaf springs, you can order 5 and 8 leaf kits for it. Mine also has the 3 so I'm thinking of ordering 8 leafs since I tow once in a while.
My truck had the same leveling kit on in when I bought it. It was stacked on top of the stock block as well. Don't really think it's unsafe.. either way it's not on my truck anymore.
Well I’m sure that truck is a concrete baby so don’t really see the problem with leaving the the blocks stacked. And I’m pretty sure In the direction of that kit it says to stacked them for the truck to be level
Put a level on the bed rails. If level is what your after. Matching clearance doesn't necessarily mean level!
Yeah, gotta dump the Cali lean. Show us some of the beautiful forests there in Hawaii! Get some dirt on that pampered truck. Just a little.
You need to fix the top of the U bolt on the left at 7:36 of the video its not sitting on the groove its on the leaf spring that’s dangerous just fyi
If the blocks are both STEEL you could have them welded together to make a 3" block. But make sure the taper is in the correct direction. The taper's job should be to point the pinion UP in the front rather than DOWN towards the ground.
I have the same lift on a 2013 Silverado and I had a shop install the lift they put it on by stacking it’s supposed to be that way
Why does rough country put little blocks in their kits. I reused blocks from another truck because I hated how the truck was lower in the rear.
Question.. why not wait until you had the 3"' blocks..
Now when I leveled my tahoe,.. I got lvl kit and it was same way. 3in front, 2in. rear that's why it's called leveling kit. So the front doesn't look sagging down lower . I think it suppose to be that way.. Maybe I'm wrong, look on Amazon at lvl kit it's same 3 front, 2 rear.. However could depend on the brand too.. Idk for sure...
Using power tools are a advantage but you will miss using hand tools, even though it may be a pain sometimes.
dude get some air tools. i did the 2.5 level / lift by hand and i couldn't even move the next day. when i did my 7" lift i had airtools with a 60 gallon compressor, what a difference,
Cut the bolts and a power impact with deep sockets...got to have power tools if you own a truck...thats a must seeing that chevy is gonna be breaking down a whole dam lot in the future...
And what about torque specs... and torque wrench... How did you do...?
Get a Milwaukee impact. I paid $400 for mine with 2 battery’s and charger, and $100 more for Tekton metric and SAE deep well impact sockets, extensions and adapters
I don’t think they sent you the correct rear blocks.
Rough country kits are always raked go by the frame the front fender opening comes up higher then the rear so with the same gap the front of the truck looks down hill drives me crazy
You should have ordered the correct height block before doing anything if you wanted one single block without stacking them. It was already at the correct height stacked.
I have a question, is your 07 Silverado a 4wd? I just bought a 2016 Sierra 1500 2wd and want to make it mine.
How's it??? Is this Ewa Beach Area? Use to live on Oahu for 7yrs
You literally had it right the first time. If you got a leveling kit, put it on, and it’s level, why would you change it so it’s not?
I am getting a rough country suspension lift My self the 3.5 inch lift and it says it is coming with 3 inch rear blocks maybe they Sent you the wrong blocks
I was curious what were your tires and rims? I have a 2008 and want to get the stock rims off, and give it a lift.
Are those wheels and tires on the side set up for future garage sale🤔
So why didn't you want to stack the blocks?
So can you stack them or not? Just bought a new 1500 and want a leveling kit.
The instructions say to do so... the rest of the world says it's a bad idea...
I have the same lift on my truck but I left it stock in the back with 20x12s and it looks clean🤙🏻
I want to see what power tools you buy!
Very nice, it’s raining here to. And I still wanna go work on the car
I hope those weren't nylon locking nuts because you just made your truck that much on safer when you take those on loosen nylon locking nuts like those look like you're ruining the locking mechanism for that nut
why didnt you just buy a 3inch block?
Your leaf springs are squat so the truck is not at the right ride hight before the lift
The truck should be 2 inches higher in the back than the front at full stock
So what was the reason to handicap the truck? The interlocking blocks are meant to give the 3” lift. Seems like a massive waste of your time.
I install rc lift kits every day for the past 9 years. The 1 1/2 blocks for the rear are correct for the kit. To level the truck it takes 2 1/2 in the front with nothing in the rear, so when you go 3 1/2 in the front technically it puts it 1 inch high in the front. So the factory blocks are 1 inch and the new blocks are angled and 2 inches in the high side there fore making it look level to the eye when standing back. The back 90% of the time is 2 - 2 1/2 higher from the factory on most trucks.
Thought the same for my 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT but I just measured before buying a kit and it's actually only 1 in lower in the front for some reason lol
@@rizescrappy8729 2wd?
@@thomaskirby7121 4WD
I installed same kit on my 07 suburban and it rubs on the front I have 285s on it.. any advice to fit that other than changing wheels or cut?
Looks good! Love the blue coil overs. I agree need a 3" block. Is that the complete bolt on kit by RC? I'm looking at doing the same for my tundra. And going to start my own channel! Are you military?
Complete kit from RC. I believe the new ones come with a 3" block. Go for it! And no, not military but lots of respect to those who are.
LoneStar Hawaiian I just ordered the 3.5 bolt on kit for my tundra so hopefully it all turns out well
you got me. you got your power tools yet?