I laughed at that lower steering column bushing replacement... back in the day of working at a gm dealer as an apprentice, I tried to do it the way you did on my first one (did a lot of em) ... and cursed so much and had the same result you did. After that, it was easier and faster to take the column out. Also, there is a hole in the lower steering column cover to install a metal rod (is a J tool, just can't remember the number) to lock the column in place... otherwise, if not removing the steering column, loop the seat belt through the steering wheel. Love the content! Thanks Matt
I was cracking up as well 🤣 when he said it's like a scene from saw down here as his hand were all cut up and blood everywhere,🤣 he said he was concerned on how much skin he was losing. 🤣 I am only laughing because I went through the same issue when changing mine. 🤣 I can't stop laughing
As usual, you have put out a very detailed video. I appreciate the time that you took to film this. You show that it is possible to rejuvenate a vehicle to showroom Performance. You know that once the paint is done that you will have a legacy truck on your hands and you will not let it leave your family!💯 Thank you my friend!✊😎
Did the same thing on my '99 Ranger XLT (194k miles) when I got it. The passenger side upper control arm bushings were warped and just about gone so I replaced all suspension components on the front and rear end. Definitely the most enduring job I've done on my truck. Props man.
I just did the same thing on my nephew's Tahoe. Did you know that you didn't have to mess with the torsion bar keys at all. Once you pull the bolts out of the lower control arm you can simply lower it and pull it off the torsion bar. When you put it back in you just have to jack the lower control arm and spindle up until the upper control arm will fit in.
I did pretty much the exact same thing to my 2007 Ram 1500 that I've owned since new. Where I deviated was buying upgraded aftermarket parts where I could. The difference was astonishing after everything was all said and done. I can't believe how much better the truck drives now.
GM uses a black wax to coat the frames from the factory. So rather than try to strip it all off or paint over wax, just put wax back on. RP-342 Cosmoline in black is the perfect choice. It blends with the remaining wax, and best of all, superior rust prevention to paints. That's because paints and converters cover the surface only. They don't penetrate the surface rust like wax does. You need that to remove the oxygen required for rust to spread. Sure, POR15 could be used for a frame off restoration with a sandblasted frame. But not when the frame is coated with wax inside and out. It will peel for sure.
I’ve gone through three of those Dorman steering column bearings. You end up jacking up the bearing because you can’t get it completely center while trying to install it. Which compromises the integrity of the plastic bearing. I ended up just removing the steering column just to replace the bearing the last time I did it.
Hey, so i got to the part of the video where you said you just sprayed over the brake lines...i understand where you're coming from but here's an idea someone gave me that could help you or anyone reading this to mask off random weird to reach parts, use ALUMINIUM FOIL!! It's crazy how easy it is to mask off parts, spray over onto and simply remove the foil for a perfect masking job! Someone taught me this years ago, and i keep on spreading the message cause of how useful this tip is. Foil so so cheap, so easy to use and so easy to remove, it's the perfect solution for odd masking jobs. FYI!
Great job Matt. I'm impressed with what you did here. Can only imagine how nice the ride is now. I've got an '05 Z71 4x4 Tahoe with only 97,000 miles but it rides like what yours did prior to the new suspension upgrade. It's on my list of To Dos b/c I plan on keeping my Tahoe forever.
I did all these upgrades over the last year. Definitely improved the ride quality on my 2004 yukon denali. That steering bearing was a pain in the ass but after awhile of aligning it she dropped in. Weird enough I developed a small clunk while braking recently. Kinda pissed I have to figure that out now.
Good video! I have been following this build. I have a 05 Yukon JL4 and replaced all the brake lines and hoses with a Doorman stainless pre-bent kit (fit well) and a set of Crown braided hoses. Used scan tool to ABS bleed. Truck stops great! Then I did GMT900 front caliper upgrade and new rear brakes. OMG! Will be doing the suspension like this soon.
Appreciate you going through all this. Looking to do something very similar to an 06 Suburban I just picked up albeit with a few upgrades for some added off road performance. Having your channel for reference will be invaluable!
@@chevyon37s That's my plan! Spohn rear and looking into front end stuff now. Atomic Fab makes a nice conversion but I'm also looking at the JD Fab mid travel uppers. There's a lot to learn on these trucks.
Man you skipped over the best part, doing the torsion keys…. I believe it’s written somewhere in the GM service manual that when doing those there’s a 30 swear word minimum before they’ll come off.
Always Saving my life motivational..... Going through hell everyday to get by . But thanks to your motivation to post everything. Drive my goals to step up my goals, views, uploading to my channel. I have loved busting my butt all my life and now almost going on 3 years starting to post my as well .
Matt the difference is amazing, although it is what you'd expect it to be. I recently, last month, replaced the upper & lower control arms, the upper & lower trail arms, coils, shocks, 1 1/2" spacer. It has a QA1 panhard bar, poly bushings all around that were put in a couple of years ago. It is keyed with a slight rake to replicate the factory attitude for towing. It is rolling on black Cragar Soft 8's 16x8's with 5" backset (factory Z71 rims are 5 1/2" bs) wrapped in 285/75r16 Cooper SS/T's. It drives and feels so much better. The next thing in line for the evolution are 4.11 Yukon gear sets to replace the factory 3.73's. I need to replace the front diff housing as it is wearing. Tahoe has just over 308,000 mile on it. Matt, I will sort of be up your way next week, coming up to see family in North Jersey and then going to Lake George. Coming up from NC, in the Tahoe of course. Keep up the great videos. Btw, looking for a 2500 HD hood also, black preferably. Later, Paul. (EDIT) Also replaced the hard brake lines, added Russell braided brake hoses and upgraded the brakes all around. Gibson headers, Thrush Vortex 3" muffler, AirRaid throttle body intake tube, AEM dry filter in stock air box.
I was cursing for you while you were fighting the steering lol Nice job, I have an 05 in the same color with 280k miles. This truck will always be my daily driver, absolutely love it.
@@mateo3388 early on the master cylinder while under warranty and for the last couple years I keep having coolant leaks and piece-by-piece I'm replacing the hoses now I have one up behind the motor on the driver side. It might be the intake manifold now
A TH-camr that asks you to like the video AFTER providing quality content!? Yesssir. Awesome build. I hate those guys that say "like and subscribe" in the first 20 seconds BEFORE providing any content.
Great video, this motivated to do my Tahoe as well with 225k mi. Just finished the rear, hardest part was lining up the new rear lower control arm bolt holes, it was just slightly off and the bolt just would not go all the way thru. Eventually I got frustrated and just hammered it lol luckily no thread damage. Going to finish the front this weekend can't wait to finish and drive, wish me luck!
I just did mine. Getting ready to do the rear. Don't forget to queitize the brake calipers. They are a source of "mysterious noises" Thanks for the video. It is verey educational.
Did this in 2016 to a 1977 Caprice. Changed front and rear, every bushing, arm, tie rods. shock and spring. After alignment and everything was done. I felt I was driving a brand new boat such a good feel. Those 30+ year old bushings was worn very badly I felt it for real. However they hold tight enough for inspections. But the feel on the road was so much different which was worth it to me. Took me about a weekend and 1000 dollars so it was cheap too.
The biggest thing that was never mentioned is the comfort, after changing old parts on my suspension the car became so comfortable i could fall asleep while driving.Your spine will thank you.
Did this on a 1988 Chevy Silverado. I went in even more and replaced the pitman arm, idler arm, upper and lower control arms, bushings, tie rods, ball joints, axels, u joints, drive shaft, complete rear end, new transmission, new transfer case, and more but you get the gist.
Just found your videos. Enjoyed this one expect for the “Head-Bangers Ball” between you talkin. Great job on the rust repair. See that you are a high trained repair technician and use vice-grips when needed. Have a 2007 GMC Sierra with 160K which is named Ye Ole Sweaty Balls which is another story. Anyways, looked under YOSB this summer and saw what I thought was a large chunk of mud. Crawled under it and discovered that it was the left side bumper stop for the axle that had dry rotted. Rolled over and touched the right side and it fell out as well. So, bought and installed new front and rear bumper stops when I put new shocks on it. Though, it rides rougher now that it did or my old back hurts more.
I have a 2007 Hummer H3 I am just starting all this process of doing the suspension, starting with the front and will work my way to the back and at the same time go after the rust and try to mitigate a lot of that with Black Star.. I just bought the Hummer a few months ago.. It was a one-owner, but was taken to beaches, so the rust is pretty invasive in spots.. Also going to change the steering shaft as that has rusted bad, but that is a normal issue on H3's.. Wasn't thinking about replacing the bump stops, but will do those now as well.. Thanks for the vid
Hey man, if you ever get any clunking from the steering column bearing just get a 2 1/4 inch muffler clamp and put that around the tube that the bearing slides in. I had a terrible noise with my old and new bearing but it’s been perfect since I did the muffler clamp mod.
this issue i have had for years , can you put the muffler clamp on it with out taking anything apart ? or do you have to remove the bearing and asymbly allso?
@@Cream_CurdlR yeah you can leave it all together and put the clamp on it. Also another thing I’ve found that really helps is to tighten the crap out of the bolt that holds the intermediate shaft to the steering box shaft.
I replaced my steering bushing and it also exploded when I first installed it. I took it back off and put it all back together with a healthy amount of grease. Works fine. Didn't have to throw it away. It still functions
You’re so lucky you live in an area where a truck that old looks that clean underneath. I like in western New York and I have a 2010 Tahoe that looks so much more rotten than what you have. Nice work. Looks good man
⚓️ Thanks Matt 🌈 I bought a 94 E150 for $1K 😎 105K miles …. The running gear was a mess … did it all in the street, one weekend… even bought the king pin press … all in ~ $900 … drop shipped from Rock Auto 🤠 drove it for ten years 😀
I've been slowly doing the same on a '69 Pontiac Catalina convertible. Changed out the rusted out thin front sway bar for a P-S-T 1 1/8" and that coupled with new springs, struts, ball joints, tie rod ends and bushings made a HUGE difference in how it handles. If doing all that to just the front made such a difference I can't wait til it gets warm enough to bring the rear suspension back up to snuff. I've heard so many stories about how those 60s & 70s land yachts rode like a dream going down the highway and I always wanted to experience it for myself. It's such a bitch to change everything out though especially when dealing with rusted, seized bolts but the end result more than makes up for it
I replaced my entire front suspension on my Pontiac G6, and used almost completely mevotech stuff because they had greasable ball joints, and they had beefier stuff. The sway bar links are 13mm thick instead of 9mm, and my lower control arms have cool little strengthening design (not sure if it actually helps, but it came in a kit, so whatever). I really need to do my rear suspension, but I also need to drop my rear K frame because it’s so rusty. And since I’m a mechanical engineering major, I want to try and make my own control arms instead of using stamped steel ones. (Except for the rear lower control arms since those are aluminum). Edit: just to make it clear, my stock suspension had absolutely zero greasable joints
The steering collar was hilarious. I swapped out something similar on my car and was pissed at how funking tight things are under there! Eventually, things fell into place.
I've got a 04 Suburban 4wd,203,000 miles. Suspension isn't even rusted,not even a speck of rust. All bushings are still on excellent shape. No plans for doing any of this, but if I
You called it on the steering bushing too! No need for it. You may have lost some skin on it but you gained a subscriber dude! Great job with the detailed video.
LOL! thats me (putting the new steering part in) and cussing up a storm when the new one doesn't want to go in or the old one doesn't want to come out!...then getting a cramp!
I felt the pain when you were changing the steering shaft bushing. Looked like the same one I just put in my Tahoe. The biggest struggle ever! Luckily mine didn’t bake but good grief it was ridiculous. Making me think I should get a different one.
Next time, just pull the column. It's not all that bad. Put a bungie cord around the shifter and the closest steering wheel spoke and you won't have to worry about the airbag spring. Also, if you want it to ride like brand new you have to do the body mounts too.
I made the mistake of using urethane body mount bushings because rubber are no longer available. It had a softer ride with the dried out originals. If anyone has found rubber maybe they could share the knowledge.
while rebuilding the suspense on my gmt 400 I was slightly disappointed that the AcDelco parts where manufactured in china and had poor paint quality (chipping paint out of the package) so I finished my suspension rebuild with Moog parts and was happy with the increased quality and most of the parts where made in the USA 💪🏼
Any more most Moog stuff is China made, and far worse quality than AcDelco in my experience. Had to replace Moog joints twice in 60k miles on my 2000 Silverado 2500.
I just did the exact same thing to my 2004 Chevy Suburban except I replaced everything with Mevotech’s TTX line and then I replaced all the bushings in the entire truck with energy suspension. One thing I wish someone would have mentioned in the countless videos on TH-cam (at least on older Chevy Suburban’s like mine) is that you can’t replace the ball joints on the upper control arms because GM made those unserviceable so you have to replace the entire thing 😠
Replace your body mounts while you're at it. That's going to take care of mystery rattles, clunks, and creaks. If everything else is okay, it'll restore the factory ride.
Sliced my hand badly on sharp edges of the new upper intermediate shaft bearing also. It took close to an hour before I figured out to rotate the new plastic steering bushing on the steering column until the side notches lined up and it will just fall in easy. If you are grabbing a hammer or tool then you don't have it lined up correctly. Ohhh the joy of a tight steering column and no more clunking.😁
I have most of that parts for my silverado, upper and lower arms etc. Was planning to do the job on my vacations, but went on a actual vacation and haven't done it. Just got lazy with it. Been 2months ha But after I checked the truck, now I have to get back into it.
YES ....... Trans Am, so glad to hear it. I finally ordered all my parts to start my LS swap in 83 Camaro. Appreciate all your vids super helpful. Gonna be a long work filled fall / winter. Cheers
With older SUV's along with the suspension the first thing i replace are the body mounts ..It takes 1 bad mount to throw off the alignment ..Tire rub etc Add in a proper lift kit And its worse if not done
Did the same on my 03 Denali over the summer....fun stuff ! Lol Thanks for sharing, I don't knownhowbyoubfind the time to record....hat's off to u sir!
@22:34 every man here as said that same line...many-a-time in many a projects...every time I'm crammed in a foot well doing something under the dash...I know I'm always saying that. ohh I had to edit....from 22:40 on is just COMEDY GOLD...thanks for making me pee my pants a bit!
I know you don't think so but that white part is the number 1 issue on that steering. It definitely looks like an aftermarket AutoZone or napa part so I'm confident it has been replaced.
Those steering column bushings only last about 6 months anyway before they start clunking again. Speaking from experience. Dorman and AC Delco look like the exact same part.
They don’t call it busted knuckle garage for nothin’. I have all this to do on my 2004 Silverado front end. Now I know what I’m up against. Just gotta go find my gloves now. Great video Matt as always. Thanks 👍
I have a 2000 chevy tahoe. And I'm replacing all the suspension parts for it. But I want to lower it also. Thank you for making the video. I usually tackle things myself. And your video will come in handy.
Don't know what year you have and didn't know if you knew but the next gens from the 2000-2006 gens have bigger front brakes by about an 1in diameter and bolt right up and is a cheap OEM upgrade. I upgraded my 2004 Suburbans front calipers, rotors and brake pads with a 2018 Tahoe's and it bolted right up with no issues and brakes so much better. Only thing is I believe you have to have at least a 17" rim fot the bigger brakes to work. I put 18" newer silverado rims on my 2004 suburban as well, to fit the bigger brakes.
A few months ago I did the same thing to my 74 Charger. It's funny because everyone is used to driving an old vehicle with old steering and suspension. So we kind of get it in our heads that it's just they way there are but that's nowhere near true. That thing is so tight and planted around corners it's surprising. It seems obvious but I still think it needs to be said, cars don't drive the same old as they did when all the components were new. I say this is worth it on any car that a person is planning on keeping for a long time.
Hey Matt, nice video! One favor please, when you do the brake lines video, would you mind making it extremely very detail (showing tricks, tips and any required tools)? Thank you!
Great video! Anti-seize compound on control arm bushing bolts is a good thing truck exposed to salt. I hate try to align a truck where the cam bolts are seized in the bushing sleeve.
If you're after a factory ride change your body mounts while you're at it. The rattles, clunks, and creaks in old body on frame trucks is from the body mounts collapsing.
Replaced alot of the same components on my front. Night and day difference on steering. Have only did rear Sway bar bushings and end links. Gave me ideas on what to do there. Wanting to do body mounts at some point. Live in the rust belt and they don't look the best. Great video though!
I did something similar with my 31+ year old DSM, but kept all the original subframes, control arms, sway bars and springs as they were in good condition, only needing a good derusting, rust treatment and paint. But all new bushings, ball joints, connectors, struts, mounts and insulators, basically anything that wears over time. Took a few years and lots of effort to get to all of it but it's done, and the car rides nicely now, with like-new handling. Obviously being a performance car it doesn't have a soft luxury ride, but you don't expect or want that in such a car. I cheaped out and used Rustoleum on the first set of parts but eventually switched over to POR-15 and KBS RustSeal, so I'll probably redo the former as the paint is coming off and they're starting to rust again, but it should be a lot easier this time as nothing needs to be replaced.
Ugh! I am about to embark in the same project on my ‘07 Tahoe. Raptor lined the paint last summer, this year the 270k mile suspension is getting yanked. Good tip on the POR and spraying satin over it, i hate how glossy POR is. Nice work and I’m definitely looking forward to more, love the Tahoe series.👍
Great job. 1k sounds expensive to put in on an older 250k mile car but like you said a new Tahoe payment is about 1 month payment. I am currently doing doing something similar to my Tacoma with 275k miles.
I enjoy watching u fix rust and def will watch the body work. I need to do some work on 87 Camaro rebuild, so this channel is helping me plan all that a lot. Keep it up man! Love this channel!
I upgraded the whole suspension on my 02 tahoe as well and it rides so smooth. I can do up to 30mph over speed bumps and just get a little chirp. I love it.
i did the same thing to my 12 burb... changed everything out for new, even the rack and pinion, and i still have slop in the steering... i am half tempted to drive it into a wall
Yo! This dude has me spending money I don't have to! I watch a video and I think to myself "shoot, I need to do that." Great work!
😅
I laughed at that lower steering column bushing replacement... back in the day of working at a gm dealer as an apprentice, I tried to do it the way you did on my first one (did a lot of em) ... and cursed so much and had the same result you did. After that, it was easier and faster to take the column out. Also, there is a hole in the lower steering column cover to install a metal rod (is a J tool, just can't remember the number) to lock the column in place... otherwise, if not removing the steering column, loop the seat belt through the steering wheel. Love the content! Thanks Matt
I was cracking up as well 🤣 when he said it's like a scene from saw down here as his hand were all cut up and blood everywhere,🤣 he said he was concerned on how much skin he was losing. 🤣 I am only laughing because I went through the same issue when changing mine. 🤣 I can't stop laughing
As usual, you have put out a very detailed video. I appreciate the time that you took to film this. You show that it is possible to rejuvenate a vehicle to showroom Performance.
You know that once the paint is done that you will have a legacy truck on your hands and you will not let it leave your family!💯
Thank you my friend!✊😎
" showroom Performance " never saw that before, usually showroom clean, finish, paint, etc.
All that cleaning and painting, then you put that crusty knuckle back on.... Looks good, man.
I was thinking the same thing putting it together😂
Crusty Knuckle sounds like a move I don't know about.
@@FirstLast-we8cb it’s a new Pokémon tm
@@FirstLast-we8cb sound like a good dance name
@@FirstLast-we8cb
Sounds like a bar on a beach
Did the same thing on my '99 Ranger XLT (194k miles) when I got it. The passenger side upper control arm bushings were warped and just about gone so I replaced all suspension components on the front and rear end. Definitely the most enduring job I've done on my truck. Props man.
I just did the same thing on my nephew's Tahoe. Did you know that you didn't have to mess with the torsion bar keys at all. Once you pull the bolts out of the lower control arm you can simply lower it and pull it off the torsion bar. When you put it back in you just have to jack the lower control arm and spindle up until the upper control arm will fit in.
I accidentally shot all of this in 1080p, whoops. my hands hurt.
what resolution do u normally record at
@@yuwaraaj1564 4k
That old saying "if it ain't broke " lol biggest struggle of the video 😅🤣😂 part that didn't need to be replaced.
I did pretty much the exact same thing to my 2007 Ram 1500 that I've owned since new. Where I deviated was buying upgraded aftermarket parts where I could. The difference was astonishing after everything was all said and done. I can't believe how much better the truck drives now.
I feel bad, but that's the hardest I've laughed in a while.
Me too 🤣
GM uses a black wax to coat the frames from the factory. So rather than try to strip it all off or paint over wax, just put wax back on. RP-342 Cosmoline in black is the perfect choice. It blends with the remaining wax, and best of all, superior rust prevention to paints. That's because paints and converters cover the surface only. They don't penetrate the surface rust like wax does. You need that to remove the oxygen required for rust to spread. Sure, POR15 could be used for a frame off restoration with a sandblasted frame. But not when the frame is coated with wax inside and out. It will peel for sure.
We do and we don't we actually do get painted and frames on the line all the time thanks.
this couldn't have come at a more convenient time, i'm about to replace everything in the front of my escalade hahaha
I’ve gone through three of those Dorman steering column bearings. You end up jacking up the bearing because you can’t get it completely center while trying to install it. Which compromises the integrity of the plastic bearing. I ended up just removing the steering column just to replace the bearing the last time I did it.
Ah yes who remembers the days when the carpets In Tahiti looked like a crime scene? Or the ancient cookies?
what about the tasty fries
@@Yo-shi-t I'm done
@@jayswrld5715 I mean I work at McDonald's I probably made those fries so they definitely are tasty
Hey, so i got to the part of the video where you said you just sprayed over the brake lines...i understand where you're coming from but here's an idea someone gave me that could help you or anyone reading this to mask off random weird to reach parts, use ALUMINIUM FOIL!! It's crazy how easy it is to mask off parts, spray over onto and simply remove the foil for a perfect masking job! Someone taught me this years ago, and i keep on spreading the message cause of how useful this tip is. Foil so so cheap, so easy to use and so easy to remove, it's the perfect solution for odd masking jobs. FYI!
Thanks for the advice
Phenomenal ❤
Great job Matt. I'm impressed with what you did here. Can only imagine how nice the ride is now. I've got an '05 Z71 4x4 Tahoe with only 97,000 miles but it rides like what yours did prior to the new suspension upgrade. It's on my list of To Dos b/c I plan on keeping my Tahoe forever.
“I hope I don’t regret it.” I laughed because I’ve endured that pain many times. 😂
I did all these upgrades over the last year. Definitely improved the ride quality on my 2004 yukon denali. That steering bearing was a pain in the ass but after awhile of aligning it she dropped in. Weird enough I developed a small clunk while braking recently. Kinda pissed I have to figure that out now.
Replace your body mounts to get rid of rattles, clunks, and creaks.
Good video! I have been following this build. I have a 05 Yukon JL4 and replaced all the brake lines and hoses with a Doorman stainless pre-bent kit (fit well) and a set of Crown braided hoses. Used scan tool to ABS bleed. Truck stops great! Then I did GMT900 front caliper upgrade and new rear brakes. OMG! Will be doing the suspension like this soon.
Watching that steering column bushing get replaced has been the most relatable car experience that I've possibly ever had.
Appreciate you going through all this. Looking to do something very similar to an 06 Suburban I just picked up albeit with a few upgrades for some added off road performance. Having your channel for reference will be invaluable!
Ditch your torsion bars and get coilovers, along with better upper control arms and you’ll be set
@@chevyon37s That's my plan! Spohn rear and looking into front end stuff now. Atomic Fab makes a nice conversion but I'm also looking at the JD Fab mid travel uppers. There's a lot to learn on these trucks.
Man you skipped over the best part, doing the torsion keys…. I believe it’s written somewhere in the GM service manual that when doing those there’s a 30 swear word minimum before they’ll come off.
Pro tip: You can skip the 30 swear word minimum by punching yourself in the face 3 times.
Watching you effortless remove the torsion bars makes me envy you
Always Saving my life motivational..... Going through hell everyday to get by . But thanks to your motivation to post everything. Drive my goals to step up my goals, views, uploading to my channel. I have loved busting my butt all my life and now almost going on 3 years starting to post my as well .
Matt the difference is amazing, although it is what you'd expect it to be. I recently, last month, replaced the upper & lower control arms, the upper & lower trail arms, coils, shocks, 1 1/2" spacer. It has a QA1 panhard bar, poly bushings all around that were put in a couple of years ago. It is keyed with a slight rake to replicate the factory attitude for towing. It is rolling on black Cragar Soft 8's 16x8's with 5" backset (factory Z71 rims are 5 1/2" bs) wrapped in 285/75r16 Cooper SS/T's. It drives and feels so much better. The next thing in line for the evolution are 4.11 Yukon gear sets to replace the factory 3.73's. I need to replace the front diff housing as it is wearing. Tahoe has just over 308,000 mile on it. Matt, I will sort of be up your way next week, coming up to see family in North Jersey and then going to Lake George. Coming up from NC, in the Tahoe of course. Keep up the great videos. Btw, looking for a 2500 HD hood also, black preferably. Later, Paul. (EDIT) Also replaced the hard brake lines, added Russell braided brake hoses and upgraded the brakes all around. Gibson headers, Thrush Vortex 3" muffler, AirRaid throttle body intake tube, AEM dry filter in stock air box.
Replace body mounts for factory ride.
I was cursing for you while you were fighting the steering lol Nice job, I have an 05 in the same color with 280k miles. This truck will always be my daily driver, absolutely love it.
What kind of stuff have you had to fix so far
07 with 151 on mine, got it in 2016 with 75 on it.
05 tahoe about 300,000 miles no major replacements just suspension components.
@@mateo3388 early on the master cylinder while under warranty and for the last couple years I keep having coolant leaks and piece-by-piece I'm replacing the hoses now I have one up behind the motor on the driver side. It might be the intake manifold now
@@Wakeywhodat sounds pretty painless for the most part! Good for you man, love to hear it
Go Tahiti!
The pain and anguish section I can 110% relate to
A TH-camr that asks you to like the video AFTER providing quality content!? Yesssir. Awesome build.
I hate those guys that say "like and subscribe" in the first 20 seconds BEFORE providing any content.
Great video, this motivated to do my Tahoe as well with 225k mi. Just finished the rear, hardest part was lining up the new rear lower control arm bolt holes, it was just slightly off and the bolt just would not go all the way thru. Eventually I got frustrated and just hammered it lol luckily no thread damage. Going to finish the front this weekend can't wait to finish and drive, wish me luck!
I love doing routine work like this in my vehicles. Makes the truck feel like new
I just did mine. Getting ready to do the rear. Don't forget to queitize the brake calipers. They are a source of "mysterious noises"
Thanks for the video. It is verey educational.
Change the body mounts for a factory ride. That's also going to fix mystery rattles, clunks, and creaks.
Surprised to see all the OEM parts, I thought it was going to be a TRX/Raptor inspired build!
Trx inspiration will come in the form of horsepower😂
And what kind of parts do you think that the trx/raptor use?
Did this in 2016 to a 1977 Caprice. Changed front and rear, every bushing, arm, tie rods. shock and spring. After alignment and everything was done. I felt I was driving a brand new boat such a good feel. Those 30+ year old bushings was worn very badly I felt it for real. However they hold tight enough for inspections. But the feel on the road was so much different which was worth it to me. Took me about a weekend and 1000 dollars so it was cheap too.
The rust prevention, repair, and paint look great. Well done.
The biggest thing that was never mentioned is the comfort, after changing old parts on my suspension the car became so comfortable i could fall asleep while driving.Your spine will thank you.
I enjoyed watching you work. It's like I'm a supervisor without any accountability!
Did this on a 1988 Chevy Silverado. I went in even more and replaced the pitman arm, idler arm, upper and lower control arms, bushings, tie rods, ball joints, axels, u joints, drive shaft, complete rear end, new transmission, new transfer case, and more but you get the gist.
I’m glad I’m not the only one who is meticulous about their Tahoe. I have the same year, keep up the good work.
Great video I’ll be buying all this stuff for my 2001 Sierra 2 door
So crazy this is all in real time… someone hire this man!!!!!!!!!
Just found your videos. Enjoyed this one expect for the “Head-Bangers Ball” between you talkin. Great job on the rust repair. See that you are a high trained repair technician and use vice-grips when needed.
Have a 2007 GMC Sierra with 160K which is named Ye Ole Sweaty Balls which is another story. Anyways, looked under YOSB this summer and saw what I thought was a large chunk of mud. Crawled under it and discovered that it was the left side bumper stop for the axle that had dry rotted. Rolled over and touched the right side and it fell out as well. So, bought and installed new front and rear bumper stops when I put new shocks on it. Though, it rides rougher now that it did or my old back hurts more.
I hope you are now out driving and enjoying the fruits of your arduous labours! Superb video!
I have a 2007 Hummer H3 I am just starting all this process of doing the suspension, starting with the front and will work my way to the back and at the same time go after the rust and try to mitigate a lot of that with Black Star.. I just bought the Hummer a few months ago.. It was a one-owner, but was taken to beaches, so the rust is pretty invasive in spots..
Also going to change the steering shaft as that has rusted bad, but that is a normal issue on H3's..
Wasn't thinking about replacing the bump stops, but will do those now as well..
Thanks for the vid
Hey man, if you ever get any clunking from the steering column bearing just get a 2 1/4 inch muffler clamp and put that around the tube that the bearing slides in. I had a terrible noise with my old and new bearing but it’s been perfect since I did the muffler clamp mod.
this issue i have had for years , can you put the muffler clamp on it with out taking anything apart ? or do you have to remove the bearing and asymbly allso?
@@Cream_CurdlR yeah you can leave it all together and put the clamp on it. Also another thing I’ve found that really helps is to tighten the crap out of the bolt that holds the intermediate shaft to the steering box shaft.
@@kodyeutsler1234 the last part you speak of , do you access it under the hood or is it all so under the inside dash?
I replaced my steering bushing and it also exploded when I first installed it. I took it back off and put it all back together with a healthy amount of grease. Works fine.
Didn't have to throw it away. It still functions
You’re so lucky you live in an area where a truck that old looks that clean underneath. I like in western New York and I have a 2010 Tahoe that looks so much more rotten than what you have. Nice work. Looks good man
This is one of the most satisfying videos I have ever watched. Many thanks.
Amazing content as usual. Tahiti never ceases to amaze me. Following along to upgrade my Tahoe.
⚓️ Thanks Matt 🌈 I bought a 94 E150 for $1K 😎 105K miles …. The running gear was a mess … did it all in the street, one weekend… even bought the king pin press … all in ~ $900 … drop shipped from Rock Auto 🤠 drove it for ten years 😀
I love some Tahiti footage. It was awesome!. Greatly appreciate your time and effort in making all of your video content. Keep them coming!!
I've been slowly doing the same on a '69 Pontiac Catalina convertible. Changed out the rusted out thin front sway bar for a P-S-T 1 1/8" and that coupled with new springs, struts, ball joints, tie rod ends and bushings made a HUGE difference in how it handles. If doing all that to just the front made such a difference I can't wait til it gets warm enough to bring the rear suspension back up to snuff. I've heard so many stories about how those 60s & 70s land yachts rode like a dream going down the highway and I always wanted to experience it for myself. It's such a bitch to change everything out though especially when dealing with rusted, seized bolts but the end result more than makes up for it
I replaced my entire front suspension on my Pontiac G6, and used almost completely mevotech stuff because they had greasable ball joints, and they had beefier stuff. The sway bar links are 13mm thick instead of 9mm, and my lower control arms have cool little strengthening design (not sure if it actually helps, but it came in a kit, so whatever). I really need to do my rear suspension, but I also need to drop my rear K frame because it’s so rusty. And since I’m a mechanical engineering major, I want to try and make my own control arms instead of using stamped steel ones. (Except for the rear lower control arms since those are aluminum).
Edit: just to make it clear, my stock suspension had absolutely zero greasable joints
The steering collar was hilarious. I swapped out something similar on my car and was pissed at how funking tight things are under there! Eventually, things fell into place.
I've got a 04 Suburban 4wd,203,000 miles. Suspension isn't even rusted,not even a speck of rust. All bushings are still on excellent shape. No plans for doing any of this, but if I
You called it on the steering bushing too! No need for it. You may have lost some skin on it but you gained a subscriber dude! Great job with the detailed video.
LOL! thats me (putting the new steering part in) and cussing up a storm when the new one doesn't want to go in or the old one doesn't want to come out!...then getting a cramp!
Love to see this old dog get some love, looking fresh!
I felt the pain when you were changing the steering shaft bushing. Looked like the same one I just put in my Tahoe. The biggest struggle ever! Luckily mine didn’t bake but good grief it was ridiculous. Making me think I should get a different one.
Next time, just pull the column. It's not all that bad. Put a bungie cord around the shifter and the closest steering wheel spoke and you won't have to worry about the airbag spring. Also, if you want it to ride like brand new you have to do the body mounts too.
I made the mistake of using urethane body mount bushings because rubber are no longer available. It had a softer ride with the dried out originals. If anyone has found rubber maybe they could share the knowledge.
I looked for body mounts but couldn’t find new rubber replacements. Everything was poly which rides much rougher.
while rebuilding the suspense on my gmt 400 I was slightly disappointed that the AcDelco parts where manufactured in china and had poor paint quality (chipping paint out of the package) so I finished my suspension rebuild with Moog parts and was happy with the increased quality and most of the parts where made in the USA 💪🏼
Any more most Moog stuff is China made, and far worse quality than AcDelco in my experience. Had to replace Moog joints twice in 60k miles on my 2000 Silverado 2500.
@@chevyon37s hate to here that and hope they are not switching to making stuff in china, and that sucks you had to replace your joints so soon
“Whose ass did this come out of?!” I’m glad to know I’m not the only one who’s asked that! Great work, man
I just did the exact same thing to my 2004 Chevy Suburban except I replaced everything with Mevotech’s TTX line and then I replaced all the bushings in the entire truck with energy suspension. One thing I wish someone would have mentioned in the countless videos on TH-cam (at least on older Chevy Suburban’s like mine) is that you can’t replace the ball joints on the upper control arms because GM made those unserviceable so you have to replace the entire thing 😠
So made in china or twain?
@@neilbrown82 Asian made
Moog has some
Replace your body mounts while you're at it. That's going to take care of mystery rattles, clunks, and creaks. If everything else is okay, it'll restore the factory ride.
Sliced my hand badly on sharp edges of the new upper intermediate shaft bearing also. It took close to an hour before I figured out to rotate the new plastic steering bushing on the steering column until the side notches lined up and it will just fall in easy. If you are grabbing a hammer or tool then you don't have it lined up correctly. Ohhh the joy of a tight steering column and no more clunking.😁
I have most of that parts for my silverado, upper and lower arms etc.
Was planning to do the job on my vacations, but went on a actual vacation and haven't done it. Just got lazy with it. Been 2months ha
But after I checked the truck, now I have to get back into it.
I’m glad to see someone else get their shit kick while working on cars. I’m not alone
YES ....... Trans Am, so glad to hear it. I finally ordered all my parts to start my LS swap in 83 Camaro. Appreciate all your vids super helpful. Gonna be a long work filled fall / winter. Cheers
I took a shot every time you said " there's nothing wrong with it" and now I'm drunk !
With older SUV's along with the suspension the first thing i replace are the body mounts ..It takes 1 bad mount to throw off the alignment ..Tire rub etc Add in a proper lift kit And its worse if not done
Did the same on my 03 Denali over the summer....fun stuff ! Lol
Thanks for sharing, I don't knownhowbyoubfind the time to record....hat's off to u sir!
It is very rare that we see a mechanic in it's nature habitat inventing new swears here on YT. Thanks for the laugh Matt
@22:34 every man here as said that same line...many-a-time in many a projects...every time I'm crammed in a foot well doing something under the dash...I know I'm always saying that. ohh I had to edit....from 22:40 on is just COMEDY GOLD...thanks for making me pee my pants a bit!
I know you don't think so but that white part is the number 1 issue on that steering. It definitely looks like an aftermarket AutoZone or napa part so I'm confident it has been replaced.
Those steering column bushings only last about 6 months anyway before they start clunking again. Speaking from experience. Dorman and AC Delco look like the exact same part.
Wow Tahiti is coming together nicely. I can't wait to see it when it's finished
Matt looks 10 years younger with a short beard. And somehow looks a little bit like John Belushi...
They don’t call it busted knuckle garage for nothin’. I have all this to do on my 2004 Silverado front end. Now I know what I’m up against. Just gotta go find my gloves now. Great video Matt as always. Thanks 👍
Tell me you don't live in the Rust Belt without telling me you don't live here. Great video, getting ready to do the same on my 180K 1995 Sierra.
I have a 2000 chevy tahoe. And I'm replacing all the suspension parts for it. But I want to lower it also. Thank you for making the video. I usually tackle things myself. And your video will come in handy.
I just did the front end on my suburban a couple weeks ago so I know how much time this took, and I didn't film it. Good job on the content!
I did I did the exact same thing to my '98 lifted all-wheel drive Astro and now I'm doing the same thing too a 2003 all wheel drive Express
Not gonna lie. Your stupid dad joke at the beginning got me 😂
Great video rocking a 99 suburban can't wait to do this!
Excited about the brake episode. My Tahoe is hurting in that department.
Don't know what year you have and didn't know if you knew but the next gens from the 2000-2006 gens have bigger front brakes by about an 1in diameter and bolt right up and is a cheap OEM upgrade. I upgraded my 2004 Suburbans front calipers, rotors and brake pads with a 2018 Tahoe's and it bolted right up with no issues and brakes so much better. Only thing is I believe you have to have at least a 17" rim fot the bigger brakes to work. I put 18" newer silverado rims on my 2004 suburban as well, to fit the bigger brakes.
@@tysoncurrie7745 thanks for the info I’ll be looking into this.
Informative.. Just bought a 09’ Outback. And I’ll be looking to tighter her up in about 20k mi.
A few months ago I did the same thing to my 74 Charger. It's funny because everyone is used to driving an old vehicle with old steering and suspension. So we kind of get it in our heads that it's just they way there are but that's nowhere near true. That thing is so tight and planted around corners it's surprising. It seems obvious but I still think it needs to be said, cars don't drive the same old as they did when all the components were new. I say this is worth it on any car that a person is planning on keeping for a long time.
Hey Matt, nice video! One favor please, when you do the brake lines video, would you mind making it extremely very detail (showing tricks, tips and any required tools)?
Thank you!
Great video! Anti-seize compound on control arm bushing bolts is a good thing truck exposed to salt. I hate try to align a truck where the cam bolts are seized in the bushing sleeve.
Really appreciate this video Matt. Looking to do the same with mine. Currently at 157,000. Thanks a whole lot brother!
If you're after a factory ride change your body mounts while you're at it. The rattles, clunks, and creaks in old body on frame trucks is from the body mounts collapsing.
Those dang bushings will always be the Bain of my car work 😂
Ive never cared for that body but damn that hd front makes it look sharp
A very quick and easy way to mask off lines and connectors from paint is with aluminum foil, easy to apply and remove, don’t even need tape
Replaced alot of the same components on my front. Night and day difference on steering. Have only did rear Sway bar bushings and end links. Gave me ideas on what to do there. Wanting to do body mounts at some point. Live in the rust belt and they don't look the best. Great video though!
I’m concerned about the amount of skin I’m losing!!! 😂😂😂😂 dude you are funny!
I did something similar with my 31+ year old DSM, but kept all the original subframes, control arms, sway bars and springs as they were in good condition, only needing a good derusting, rust treatment and paint. But all new bushings, ball joints, connectors, struts, mounts and insulators, basically anything that wears over time. Took a few years and lots of effort to get to all of it but it's done, and the car rides nicely now, with like-new handling.
Obviously being a performance car it doesn't have a soft luxury ride, but you don't expect or want that in such a car. I cheaped out and used Rustoleum on the first set of parts but eventually switched over to POR-15 and KBS RustSeal, so I'll probably redo the former as the paint is coming off and they're starting to rust again, but it should be a lot easier this time as nothing needs to be replaced.
Man thanks for a video on Tahiti suspension wish you had another Tahoe you were doing to make even more content
Ugh! I am about to embark in the same project on my ‘07 Tahoe. Raptor lined the paint last summer, this year the 270k mile suspension is getting yanked. Good tip on the POR and spraying satin over it, i hate how glossy POR is. Nice work and I’m definitely looking forward to more, love the Tahoe series.👍
Great job. 1k sounds expensive to put in on an older 250k mile car but like you said a new Tahoe payment is about 1 month payment.
I am currently doing doing something similar to my Tacoma with 275k miles.
I enjoy watching u fix rust and def will watch the body work. I need to do some work on 87 Camaro rebuild, so this channel is helping me plan all that a lot. Keep it up man! Love this channel!
I upgraded the whole suspension on my 02 tahoe as well and it rides so smooth. I can do up to 30mph over speed bumps and just get a little chirp. I love it.
i did the same thing to my 12 burb... changed everything out for new, even the rack and pinion, and i still have slop in the steering... i am half tempted to drive it into a wall