They do make plastic wedges or you could use a plastic auto body panel removal too. that will not damage the flanges in order to make separating the drive from the housing.
Thank you for adding the part of NOT using a flat head screwdriver to pry it off. I see people do it, and I cringe!!!! Thanks for the video! Super helpful!
Hey Michael, great videos I recently picked up a used boat and your videos a extremely helpful thank you. The previous owner tried to use a pry bar to separate it. Caused some damage and a small chunk broke off. Does that mating surface need to be water tight? Do
Hi Michael, Thanks for the informative video! Can you please tell me if I have to shift into forward, neutral, or reverse when removing the outdrive? I appreciate your help! - George
Hi Michael, I may be removing my stern drive real soon, 92 OMC Cobra 5.8, becuase it does not like to shift out of fwd or reverse back to neutral. I am going to check my switches and ESA first but if those check out I will be doing the cable adjustment and possibly rod adjustment. Is there anything besides the transom gasket that needs to be replaced while I have the drive off?
Hi there! Excellent videos! I have a 1994 Four wins Horizon 180 with the Ford 5.0 and OMC/Volvo sx leg. I have had for few years and the vibration when I am turning the steering wheel is getting worse. I have been told it is the U-Joints. I am wondering if you can help with any parts I need to pre order the complete this repair quickly. Thanks in advance!!
Adam the steering arm is near the u-joints, so that is possible. I recommend you pull off the stern drive first--don't bother trying to buy parts. No matter what, if this is your first time having it off, it will take you a few days regardless. I wouldn't want to rush anything, you want to inspect everything. There are minimum parts you need e.g., the stern drive seals/o-rings. You may find you need bellows, and other various seals. Take it off and take a look. Check out my videos too by the way. I cover just about every possible issue you can run into, even before you take off the out drive.
Hi Mike! Thanks for the advice! I will bring the boat home from lake and will begin taking the stern drive off. What are the best steps to take to remove the drive? I am not seeing a video of a step by step. I assume drain leg oil, top plastic cover, shift linkage, 6 bolts, and possibly 2 hex driven bolts...... anything else?
I can't find your video about how to remove an SX lower unit. Do you have a link? Really, I am just wondering how much disassembly is required to replace the prop shaft. This is on a 2007 SX. I figure it can't just pulled out with the lower unit still on the boat (That would be too easy). Can the lower unit be removed without taking off the upper as well?
I have the removal and install here under the Boat Transom and Floor Rebuild playlist. It’s 85 episodes and covers what you are looking for. You need to remove the entire stern drive. Reason, We need to inspect the U joints, gimbal bearings, and oil seal-not to mention the bellows.
@@michaelromer2016 just found the drive gear that meshes with the forward and reverse gear in the upper outdrive shredded to pieces. Probably going to part out the boat now on eBay :(
I have the generation after this, the SX-A. Gen 2? Anyway, I'm hoping there aren't any key differences. I didn't notice a "step 3" video that covers the inspection of the internals. I'll double check. Thanks for the video. Others had me thinking I needed a caster stand for the outdrive and all kinds of stuff.
I´ve been waiting for better Cobra/SX videos and yours are a lot of help. Thanks a lot. Just one thing, don´t you have to disconnect the shift cable before removing the drive?
Thomas Husby Removing the shift cable isn't required. I'll add a video soon regarding how to separate the upper and lower unit. That's the only time you have to worry about a shift related item.
The later Volvos have a bolt you remove that disconnects the shift linkage, the OMC Cobra doesn't. They are similar other than that bolt I mentioned. I'll do a true blue Volvo Penta SX video here in the next few months.
SX video would be great. I'm really trying to stay on top of my boat mechanically...but have no guidance as to what needs to be done. I just replaced the motor with a reman long block, and it's been running great. But concerned about my manifolds and risers, and if they are in need of replacing. Thanks for all your videos, and your desire to help others.
What's wrong w/ you manifolds? Typically they have a few exhaust style seals in them--that's it. I'll put up a video about them here in a bit. The main short term concern you need to have is making sure you grease the gimbal bearing and have adequate oil in the stern drive.
William Holdt It's gasket sealer compound and only use the marine version of it, not automotive. Johnson Evinrude BRP Gasket Sealing Compound 0508235 www.amazon.com/dp/B001KYDE2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x0apBb79V1EAP
They do make plastic wedges or you could use a plastic auto body panel removal too. that will not damage the flanges in order to make separating the drive from the housing.
I like that idea. I’ve seen the engine alignment off so bad that getting this out is trouble! Thanks and please subscribe!
Thank you for adding the part of NOT using a flat head screwdriver to pry it off. I see people do it, and I cringe!!!! Thanks for the video! Super helpful!
I hear that! Thanks for the comments!
Hey Michael, great videos I recently picked up a used boat and your videos a extremely helpful thank you. The previous owner tried to use a pry bar to separate it. Caused some damage and a small chunk broke off. Does that mating surface need to be water tight? Do
It does for the model seen in the video. If it leaks, you will damage the gimbal bearings/U joints. Make a video, post it, and put the link here.
Hi Michael,
Thanks for the informative video! Can you please tell me if I have to shift into forward, neutral, or reverse when removing the outdrive? I appreciate your help!
- George
Keep it in neutral. Gear selection is only required (sometimes) when you are trying to put the prop on w/ a cone clutch.
Hi Michael, I may be removing my stern drive real soon, 92 OMC Cobra 5.8, becuase it does not like to shift out of fwd or reverse back to neutral. I am going to check my switches and ESA first but if those check out I will be doing the cable adjustment and possibly rod adjustment. Is there anything besides the transom gasket that needs to be replaced while I have the drive off?
Hi there! Excellent videos!
I have a 1994 Four wins Horizon 180 with the Ford 5.0 and OMC/Volvo sx leg.
I have had for few years and the vibration when I am turning the steering wheel is getting worse. I have been told it is the U-Joints. I am wondering if you can help with any parts I need to pre order the complete this repair quickly. Thanks in advance!!
Adam the steering arm is near the u-joints, so that is possible. I recommend you pull off the stern drive first--don't bother trying to buy parts. No matter what, if this is your first time having it off, it will take you a few days regardless. I wouldn't want to rush anything, you want to inspect everything. There are minimum parts you need e.g., the stern drive seals/o-rings. You may find you need bellows, and other various seals. Take it off and take a look. Check out my videos too by the way. I cover just about every possible issue you can run into, even before you take off the out drive.
Hi Mike! Thanks for the advice! I will bring the boat home from lake and will begin taking the stern drive off. What are the best steps to take to remove the drive? I am not seeing a video of a step by step. I assume drain leg oil, top plastic cover, shift linkage, 6 bolts, and possibly 2 hex driven bolts...... anything else?
Adam, check this out m.th-cam.com/video/5zXywKEzq7U/w-d-xo.html and also th-cam.com/video/o44aGTeaT1A/w-d-xo.html
I can't find your video about how to remove an SX lower unit. Do you have a link?
Really, I am just wondering how much disassembly is required to replace the prop shaft. This is on a 2007 SX. I figure it can't just pulled out with the lower unit still on the boat (That would be too easy). Can the lower unit be removed without taking off the upper as well?
I have the removal and install here under the Boat Transom and Floor Rebuild playlist. It’s 85 episodes and covers what you are looking for. You need to remove the entire stern drive. Reason, We need to inspect the U joints, gimbal bearings, and oil seal-not to mention the bellows.
Does the drive shaft with the universal joint run in sea water or should that be sealed?
It is supposed to be sealed. I’ll talk about it in my next video coming up this week, so subscribe, it’s going to be on the 400hp series.
@@michaelromer2016 just found the drive gear that meshes with the forward and reverse gear in the upper outdrive shredded to pieces. Probably going to part out the boat now on eBay :(
Before you part it out. Price out the parts you need and check out this video. I go over everything on OMC. th-cam.com/video/sdjgHLuktrE/w-d-xo.html
@@michaelromer2016 that’s the propeller shaft. I’m talking about the gear on the end of the shaft coming from the engine.
@@sevyn13 oh no! Did you see what locked up? Was the motor at fault?
I have the generation after this, the SX-A. Gen 2? Anyway, I'm hoping there aren't any key differences. I didn't notice a "step 3" video that covers the inspection of the internals. I'll double check. Thanks for the video. Others had me thinking I needed a caster stand for the outdrive and all kinds of stuff.
I found the video (leak check?). Thanks again. Hoping to tackle this in a couple of weeks with an auto mechanic friend of mine.
Is draining the lower unit oil required for removing the sterndrive?
lray801 no but I highly recommend changing stern drive oil on a regular basis, i.e every season.
@@michaelromer2016 Thanks. Planning on tackling a shift cable on an OMC Cobra this weekend. 🤞
lray801 Throw some questions my way if you run into issues.
@@michaelromer2016 Thanks! Hoping it goes smoothly. If it does, it'll be--in no small part--thanks to your videos!
plastic dead blow hammer better than rubber. Also using stacked washers in on the bolts tightening nut on washer stack will separate faster
I´ve been waiting for better Cobra/SX videos and yours are a lot of help. Thanks a lot. Just one thing, don´t you have to disconnect the shift cable before removing the drive?
Thomas Husby Removing the shift cable isn't required. I'll add a video soon regarding how to separate the upper and lower unit. That's the only time you have to worry about a shift related item.
Nice video and thanks, do you have any video about changing bellows of the sx drive?
I wish you had a video on how to remove to lower unit on a sx
Jeremy Asaro I do. Search by playlist in my channel
th-cam.com/play/PLvpOnNn30ab2pFNoCdoOXJtoIRwjnoPoa.html
Don’t forget to subscribe!
How did you get it to come off without removing your shift linkage cable?
The later Volvos have a bolt you remove that disconnects the shift linkage, the OMC Cobra doesn't. They are similar other than that bolt I mentioned. I'll do a true blue Volvo Penta SX video here in the next few months.
SX video would be great. I'm really trying to stay on top of my boat mechanically...but have no guidance as to what needs to be done. I just replaced the motor with a reman long block, and it's been running great. But concerned about my manifolds and risers, and if they are in need of replacing. Thanks for all your videos, and your desire to help others.
What's wrong w/ you manifolds? Typically they have a few exhaust style seals in them--that's it. I'll put up a video about them here in a bit. The main short term concern you need to have is making sure you grease the gimbal bearing and have adequate oil in the stern drive.
How do I get to the Trim & Tilt lines so I can replace them?
Hey, seriously some great tips!
Thanks!!!
Where can I purchase the alignment tool
Check this out How-to Find Boat Parts
th-cam.com/video/puB1Ew17mNI/w-d-xo.html
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
what is the name of the marine grade sealant brown does not dry ?
William Holdt It's gasket sealer compound and only use the marine version of it, not automotive. Johnson Evinrude BRP Gasket Sealing Compound 0508235 www.amazon.com/dp/B001KYDE2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x0apBb79V1EAP
Super helpful
Thanks!so much
Keep them coming :)
Shift cable?
Check this out How-to Find Boat Parts
th-cam.com/video/puB1Ew17mNI/w-d-xo.html
This is not the way to do!!!Volvo is different than a omc