A helpful hint on removing the pivot bolts. While the drive is still attached along with the trim cylinders, you can break the torque and the locktite. The drive will not move up on you when you take to either bolt with your extension. Just break the torque and the bond. When it comes to removing them later you’ll have no problem.
@@ninjapatton Yeah I am about to do the same job. Took a look at my unit after I watched your video to see if I would have a problem removing those two bolts. I took to them with the 1/2 square drive and a long extension and I was able to break torque pretty easily without the drive riding up. I know I’ll have no issues when it comes to doing the job. Enjoyed your video by the way!
I did this job on my boat, it was a pain in the ass. I had to do it twice, the first time, I couldn't get everything lined up before the glue got too dry. The second time around, I glued the bellows on the outdrive side first, then the bearing side - I found it to be easier this way.
Thanks so much for buying your parts from us and for giving us the shout out! Let us know any time you need equipment for your Volvo drive (or anything else on your boat).
Here’s some knowledge from Lou C to also help: the pivot housing pins can be loosened with the drive still on and trim rams still hooked up, this prevents the problem with the pivot housing moving around. the VP drives can get stuck to the pivot housing where the studs go into the pivot housing. I would smear OMC/Evinrude triple guard grease on the bosses for the studs and the mating surfaces for the drive and pivot. I also use the same grease on the trim ram rod and driveshaft splines. I don’t use loctite on those pivot pins but either OMC gasket sealer or Permatex Aviation sealer. I also use that on the threads of the 6 studs. The sealer keeps water from getting in and causing seizing and corrosion. The OMC/Evinrude triple guard grease is the best water proof grease I have come across and the OMC gasket sealer, will prevent corrosion and seizing of nuts and bolts on an outdrive that is submerged in water much of the time.
No need to remove the pivot pins to change the bellows. Not sure about other types of drives but this bellows is held on by a hose clamp at the transom and a groove at the other end. Access through the right side by turning it all the way to the left and pull it out through the side. Those pivot pins should be left alone.
I was just following the Volvo service manual. And not sure I could have gotten the U-joint bellow off without removing the pivot pins, not to mention being able to grease the gimbal bearing. I've heard some mercruiser guys say they don't have to remove their pivot pins, which leaves me jealous.
I'm about to do this. The new style gimbal bellows are not very flexible at all and look like a p.i.t.a. to install without removal of the pivot housing. I'm hoping I can because I don't feel like locating a new tool that I will use once.
Very helpful, thorough video. It's not as realistic because there wasn't as much cursing as when I do the work, but other than that--well done. Thank you!
I just did my 2000 volvo penta sx-m. And I did not remove the housing, so no messing with trim . Bellows was OEM and new style like CV joint on cars and trucks....hard plastic with rubber ends and no internal spring. U-joint second out, first in. OEM bellows $76 and 46 for exhaust....of course my boat has twins, so double the cost...
i know this is 9 months ago. but i just did boat checks before i put boat in water since winterizing and found my u joint bellows having rubber degrade in the ribs and my exhaust has been torn for a long time. I planned on just replacing only the bellows, however this guy seems to be replacing everything.. are you able to just replace the bellows with fewer steps or?
For my model, you have to pull the outdrive. I know some Mercruiser guys that say you can do the exhaust bellow without removing the drive. But there is no way (in my mind) you can do the U-joint bellow without removing the drive.
Thank you sir...I almost thought they provided me the wrong OEM bellows. The body diameter is about 1/2 inch less than what I am replacing and I was having trouble confirming the diameter of the openings on each end because the old one is so irregular and softer. I will try without removing the pivot housing.
I am about to do this to my boat, it sounds like a dripping faucet behind the motor, raised the drive and found a thumb sized hole, for the record black RTV lasted one season, if you are in a pinch and do not want to pull the drive right away!
My dad had 2 mercruiser IO boats and they were nothing but trouble with overheating.Unfortunately, he was not mechanically inclined. His limitations stoped with flushing the engine.
Suggestions: safety goggles when removing snap ring in case it flies off Smear OMC/Evinrude grease on the mating surfaces of both the pivot housing and the drive, this prevents corrosion that can lock it in place break loose the pivot pins before removing the drive, impact gun works well I could do it just with hand tools I used OMC/Evinrude gasket sealer on the threads I don't think there is any need for thread locker regardless of what Volvo says. the older style all rubber bellows were asymmetric there was one more fold on one side, that faces down to relieve strain when you tilt up, not sure if the newer style with the hard plastic does also. I have an OMC Cobra but the procedure is almost identical except on the Cobra you do not have to disconnect the shift cable, and there is a gasket between the drive and the pivot housing. Great video.
Wow everything is so clean. We all should have one of those carts to catch the outdrive. Great video. Watching you for those moments before you pulled up on that left side gimbal helmet piviot bolt was golden. Hummm should I pull on this or not...LOL. I've had to use a heat gun before to get them to break loose. Again great video and that is how service should be done. Thanks
Ha, yes. Very clean lake and I wipe it down after use. Boat is stored in a shed so stays out of the climates. Bought some new tools for this but I also take pride in what I have and try to keep them clean and organized.
Yeah. Great video! I find that my Craftsman 1/2” battery powered impact wrench is indispensable for removing stubborn fittings like those pivot pins. Sure beats trying to maneuver a cheater bar in those tight areas!
That was a great video. It was very helpful. Can I ask. Where did you get the manuel? I'd love to get it. Like you said. I dont want to pay that crazy money too. It's breaking me
Nice Job. You mentioned needing a larger torque wrench but did not give the torque value for the pins. It's been a while since you posted but could you update. Thanks
ps convert neuton-meters to ft lbs. metric to English, lol. nice fresh water drive. I'm in the salt, they never will look like that unless the boat is never stored in the water.
One more thing, when installing bellows, count the ribs. More ribs on the bottom, fewer on the top as you can imagine the drive bends up and needs more stretch on the bottom then top.
Nice job! What you did for me is convince me that I really probably DON'T want to do this myself. LOL! I also don't recall seeing you actually remove the rubber bellows themselves. I was curious as to their shape/cracks. Then you kind of jumped past the actual install of the replacement bellows too. I guess those are a pretty straight forward install once you're to that point. Off topic: I'd like to know what you think about those self-leveling trim tabs it looks like you have installed. Thanks!
My bellows were actually in really good shape. The install was very straight forward. I edited some of it out because all you could see was the back of my head. The trim tabs are awesome. Made a ton of difference in getting on plane. Worth the $100.
I read these comments,....I had a rubber bellows not a plastic bellows. Inside the rubber bellows is a wire coil you need to remove. Maybe you do need to remove the pivot bolts if you have a plastic bellows but I'd avoid doing it if possible. Get a rubber bellows, not a plastic one.
Yeah, I wish there was a way to replace the bellows without removing the pivot bolts and housing but I don’t know how to do it. Would save time and knuckles.
what is sealing the stern drive when you put the drive shaft back in? Seems like just that layer of blue grease at 17:38? Is there a gasket or sealing compound?
The splines on the out drive need to line up with the engine. Make sure battery is disconnected first. Then have someone slightly move the prop left and right to move the splines while slightly pushing the out drive forward in to the engine. Moving the prop left and right will help line up the splines.
We have done that multiple times over the past week. I am able to slide the alignment tool in with minimal effort but once I try the drive I only can get it to go in to a certain spot just outside the bolts. Only once have I had it in far enough so I could not turn the prop then I knew I was splined. I sure that it’s an alignment issue but I can not tell what direction to go with the mounting nuts. Nothing changes after I adjust the nuts up or down. I am still able to push the alignment tool into the bearing and then onto the coupler with minimal change in the effect.
@@ontheone9559Ok. It still sounds like your drive shaft on the outdrive isn't getting properly lined up with the splines in the engine. I had to move my prop quite a bit to get it lined up. And once the outdrive shaft is in, it should turn freely unless your outdrive is in gear (I think, I'm not 100% on this.). I would recommend taking your issues over to the forums in iboats. TONS of knowledge there and I use that forum for my boat questions.
How did you put the exhaust bellow so no clamp just just a clip? How did you install it? My exhaust bellow came off seems like they just used contact cement or glue before.
@@ninjapatton The end of the exhaust bellow Goes inside the lip not over the lip.. As to why it doesn’t come with the bottom clamp so how do you put one on?
@@jayrico95 Mine goes over the lip, and my Sx-m shop manual shows it going over the lip and also shows the clamps. If I could post a photo of the manual I would.
so I'm here in 2021 because my gimbal bearing bellows (same SX outdrive) cracked which (I guess) allowed water in and washed all the grease out of the bearing which then self-destructed in violent fashion, ruining the transom assembly..... sad face. Wish I had caught that cracked bellows sooner.
Thanks for this video. I am getting ready to embark on this project. Am I missing the exhaust bellows on your parts list or is it included in the bellows kit part. I can't figure it out from the descriptions online. Thanks
Forgot to put it in the list: Part 3850426 www.marinepartssource.com/volvo-penta-sx-exhaust-bellows-volvo-penta-3850426?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpNr4BRDYARIsAADIx9yHHOVhMCBCqs4NF4CRiWSnj805OVb_s3FzGRt-F7PZncOG9-PXWKQaAkCcEALw_wcB
What about the trim indicator? Did you skip it? I think I see it hanging off to the right side. How do you remove and reinstall it? The workshop manual lists a bunch of steps to replacing it, but can you just mark its' position before removal and then remount it in the same position?
James Salisbury - I took it off. Two screws. You have to take it off to access the pivot bolt. Then put it back on, trimmed the engine down and adjusted it. Took less than a minute.
I"m getting a vibration on my sx-m outdrive when turning left or right or when not centered almost perfectly with the trim, could it be the ujoints wearing out? Just replaced gimbal bearing and had some other work done at the marina.
It's the joints. I had the same problem last year. There was no vibration when the drive was straight but whenever I turned left or right there was alot of vibration and a grinding noise. My joints failed
Turned out it wasn’t the joints it was the gimbal bearing had literally popped out of place and slid back on the shaft. It wiped out the seal on the upper Outdrive unit as well and all the gear ⚙️ oil filled the bellows. No idea how that happened it was installed by a marina less than 1 hour of run time in it. Maybe poor installation or wrong part installed.
Nice video! One question (maybe a stupid one...). What is the purpose of the little holes in the exhaust bellow? My boat went to the shop and they mounted the exhaust bellow with the little holes pointed sidewards (not downwards as mentioned in your video). What can be the consequences of this?
I'm not an expert but will tell you what I have been told about the exhaust bellows: 1. a lot of boats don't even use them, the exhaust just goes in to the water, 2. the holes help water drain out once you pull the boat out of the water so it doesn't go back in to the exhaust. If it were me, I would take a small drill bit and BY HAND drill some small holes in the bottom of the exhaust bellow so it can drain out. The holes on the side won't do much.
Daren Hoelscher - I found it online years ago. Go search on iforums at iboat and see if anyone has a copy. Dm me and I will see if I can find my digital copy.
Check my reply above for free online manual you can save to hard drive print or just lookup has engines and drives oem shop manual. Boatinfo.no gotta have flashplayer on device website nav is a little weird it has a little slider tab to scroll.
Please, you did a great job breaking down the parts but How about the Pivot pin tool. Can you share the size and where to buy. My pin does not use the typical "Star" drive. It is a fine star with guessing 16-20 points.
First time was about 4.5 hours, but I also went really slow and that includes half hour to build the out drive cart. Now that I have some tips and tricks, can probably do it in under 2.
I tend to agree, but the Volvo manual says the Gimbal bearing needs to be inspected and greased yearly, which means at least pulling the outdrive. But I think bellows could go multiple years depending on use.
@@ninjapatton I just bought a boat where the guy polished and babied it for more than 20 years. He used it a few times each summer. I bought it off him and asked when he last replaced the bellows. He never did, and never pulled the outdrive...which is why he didn't see the exhaust flapper obstructing the exhaust ports. But boy did he grease the gimbal bearing. Bellows was full of grease. I figure those are original 1996 bellows and they were amazing. So, likely depends on how much use and the environment. I think the yearly maintenance is Volvo Penta "anus protectus" covering the worst usage conditions.
Why were you replacing the exhaust and ujoint bellows? Was it causing any issues? Mine is completely open at one of the ridges. My boat is also overheating. Would an open bellows cause overheating? Also, maybe another dumb question, do you have to take it all apart? I watched another video (not the same Volvo Penta model, mind you) that did not take it all apart. If not replacing the ujoint bellows, just the exhaust bellows, could some steps be saved? I am not paying a mechanic $800 either, but I'm not entirely confident in being able to do it myself!
I needed to get in and check the gimbal bearing as I had no idea how long it had been on the boat or if it had ever been serviced. I’m the second owner. You do have to remove the outdrive to replace the ujoint bellow but don’t have to remove the drive for the exhaust bellow. And I know guys who don’t have an exhaust bellow, I don’t think it’s required. As for over-heating, I don’t think the bellows have anything to do with that. BUT I AM NOT A MECHANIC. Consult a mechanic if you have issues. My guess, it’s your impeller. I change mine yearly. Takes 5 minutes. I use only OEM.
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A helpful hint on removing the pivot bolts. While the drive is still attached along with the trim cylinders, you can break the torque and the locktite. The drive will not move up on you when you take to either bolt with your extension. Just break the torque and the bond. When it comes to removing them later you’ll have no problem.
Thanks! This is a great tip and one I wish I had known at the time.
@@ninjapatton Yeah I am about to do the same job. Took a look at my unit after I watched your video to see if I would have a problem removing those two bolts. I took to them with the 1/2 square drive and a long extension and I was able to break torque pretty easily without the drive riding up. I know I’ll have no issues when it comes to doing the job. Enjoyed your video by the way!
Very thorough explaining each step , even with the tools used , can I bring my Volvo penta for new bellows lol good video
I did this job on my boat, it was a pain in the ass. I had to do it twice, the first time, I couldn't get everything lined up before the glue got too dry. The second time around, I glued the bellows on the outdrive side first, then the bearing side - I found it to be easier this way.
Thanks so much for buying your parts from us and for giving us the shout out! Let us know any time you need equipment for your Volvo drive (or anything else on your boat).
I just placed my first order with MPS and so far I'm impressed! Knowledgeable phone help and fast ship next day. Keep it up! Check these guys out all!
Here’s some knowledge from Lou C to also help:
the pivot housing pins can be loosened with the drive still on and trim rams still hooked up, this prevents the problem with the pivot housing moving around.
the VP drives can get stuck to the pivot housing where the studs go into the pivot housing. I would smear OMC/Evinrude triple guard grease on the bosses for the studs and the mating surfaces for the drive and pivot. I also use the same grease on the trim ram rod and driveshaft splines. I don’t use loctite on those pivot pins but either OMC gasket sealer or Permatex Aviation sealer. I also use that on the threads of the 6 studs. The sealer keeps water from getting in and causing seizing and corrosion.
The OMC/Evinrude triple guard grease is the best water proof grease I have come across and the OMC gasket sealer, will prevent corrosion and seizing of nuts and bolts on an outdrive that is submerged in water much of the time.
Great tip....thank you
Your video helped me do this job and I never worked on a boat in my life!
Awesome. Glad to help.
No need to remove the pivot pins to change the bellows. Not sure about other types of drives but this bellows is held on by a hose clamp at the transom and a groove at the other end. Access through the right side by turning it all the way to the left and pull it out through the side. Those pivot pins should be left alone.
I was just following the Volvo service manual. And not sure I could have gotten the U-joint bellow off without removing the pivot pins, not to mention being able to grease the gimbal bearing. I've heard some mercruiser guys say they don't have to remove their pivot pins, which leaves me jealous.
I'm about to do this. The new style gimbal bellows are not very flexible at all and look like a p.i.t.a. to install without removal of the pivot housing. I'm hoping I can because I don't feel like locating a new tool that I will use once.
Thanks for that video. I have a dual prop so mine will be different. But at lease I know the basics now.
Best video on a bellow change for Volvo SX....gives me confidence to take on this project...thanks! Found manual on the net for free
Glad it helped!
Do you have a link for that manual?
1/2" hex bit and an impact worked great.
Very helpful, thorough video. It's not as realistic because there wasn't as much cursing as when I do the work, but other than that--well done. Thank you!
bradley gregg - Lots of editing to get rid of the cuss words. LOTS. Think this took me 4-5 hours at least.
You set your shift linkage so that it has equal free play both ways, no need to count threads or measure anything.
I just did my 2000 volvo penta sx-m. And I did not remove the housing, so no messing with trim . Bellows was OEM and new style like CV joint on cars and trucks....hard plastic with rubber ends and no internal spring. U-joint second out, first in. OEM bellows $76 and 46 for exhaust....of course my boat has twins, so double the cost...
i know this is 9 months ago. but i just did boat checks before i put boat in water since winterizing and found my u joint bellows having rubber degrade in the ribs and my exhaust has been torn for a long time. I planned on just replacing only the bellows, however this guy seems to be replacing everything.. are you able to just replace the bellows with fewer steps or?
For my model, you have to pull the outdrive. I know some Mercruiser guys that say you can do the exhaust bellow without removing the drive. But there is no way (in my mind) you can do the U-joint bellow without removing the drive.
Thank you sir...I almost thought they provided me the wrong OEM bellows. The body diameter is about 1/2 inch less than what I am replacing and I was having trouble confirming the diameter of the openings on each end because the old one is so irregular and softer. I will try without removing the pivot housing.
I am about to do this to my boat, it sounds like a dripping faucet behind the motor, raised the drive and found a thumb sized hole, for the record black RTV lasted one season, if you are in a pinch and do not want to pull the drive right away!
My dad had 2 mercruiser IO boats and they were nothing but trouble with overheating.Unfortunately, he was not mechanically inclined. His limitations stoped with flushing the engine.
Thanks for the video. I'm hoping I can get it done without taking pivot housing off. Looks like no fun.
Suggestions:
safety goggles when removing snap ring in case it flies off
Smear OMC/Evinrude grease on the mating surfaces of both the pivot housing and the drive, this prevents corrosion that can lock it in place
break loose the pivot pins before removing the drive, impact gun works well I could do it just with hand tools
I used OMC/Evinrude gasket sealer on the threads I don't think there is any need for thread locker regardless of what Volvo says.
the older style all rubber bellows were asymmetric there was one more fold on one side, that faces down to relieve strain when you tilt up, not sure if the newer style with the hard plastic does also. I have an OMC Cobra but the procedure is almost identical except on the Cobra you do not have to disconnect the shift cable, and there is a gasket between the drive and the pivot housing.
Great video.
Wow everything is so clean. We all should have one of those carts to catch the outdrive. Great video. Watching you for those moments before you pulled up on that left side gimbal helmet piviot bolt was golden. Hummm should I pull on this or not...LOL. I've had to use a heat gun before to get them to break loose. Again great video and that is how service should be done. Thanks
Thanks. First time doing this so I took my time. I can do it in about 1/4 the time now.
Great video. You might have mentioned why you replaced the bellows.
When I bought the boat it was 11 years old and I didn’t get any maintenance records. Decided to tackle the project.
Does this boat actually go into the water? How the heck does anyone have an outdrive so pretty!
And all new tools also
Ha, yes. Very clean lake and I wipe it down after use. Boat is stored in a shed so stays out of the climates. Bought some new tools for this but I also take pride in what I have and try to keep them clean and organized.
That was me at 10:55 trying to break look rotor bolts went to home deport got a cheap impact gun lol
Yeah. Great video! I find that my Craftsman 1/2” battery powered impact wrench is indispensable for removing stubborn fittings like those pivot pins. Sure beats trying to maneuver a cheater bar in those tight areas!
Yeah, gonna upgrade to a big impact wrench for the next time I take this on. Great suggestion.
That was a great video. It was very helpful. Can I ask. Where did you get the manuel? I'd love to get it. Like you said. I dont want to pay that crazy money too. It's breaking me
I found it online at one point but the site is now down due to copyright issues.
Great job, thank you for the tips!!!
Nice Job. You mentioned needing a larger torque wrench but did not give the torque value for the pins. It's been a while since you posted but could you update. Thanks
1/2 inch hex socket. 105-120 ft lb (142-164 Nm).
Nice video very helpful wht the blue tape on the end of shifter cable
booostedtc - I read to put it on to hold the nut and help it slide in easier. Probably can go without it.
What Volvo grease are you talking about you put a line of it around the shaft housing what is that for. I was told not to do that
ps convert neuton-meters to ft lbs. metric to English, lol.
nice fresh water drive. I'm in the salt, they never will look like that unless the boat is never stored in the water.
One more thing, when installing bellows, count the ribs. More ribs on the bottom, fewer on the top as you can imagine the drive bends up and needs more stretch on the bottom then top.
aren't ribs just circles around the whole bellows? is it not equal?
The new design OEM seems to have on 6 ribs - no offset, and a narrower body by 1/2 inch. Makes me nervous.
Nice job! What you did for me is convince me that I really probably DON'T want to do this myself. LOL!
I also don't recall seeing you actually remove the rubber bellows themselves. I was curious as to their shape/cracks. Then you kind of jumped past the actual install of the replacement bellows too. I guess those are a pretty straight forward install once you're to that point.
Off topic: I'd like to know what you think about those self-leveling trim tabs it looks like you have installed. Thanks!
My bellows were actually in really good shape. The install was very straight forward. I edited some of it out because all you could see was the back of my head.
The trim tabs are awesome. Made a ton of difference in getting on plane. Worth the $100.
@@ninjapatton
Good to know on the trim tabs. Thanks!
That’s a $1200 job tho
@@Johnnyreengo True! B.O.A.T. = Break Out Another Thousand 🙂
I read these comments,....I had a rubber bellows not a plastic bellows. Inside the rubber bellows is a wire coil you need to remove. Maybe you do need to remove the pivot bolts if you have a plastic bellows but I'd avoid doing it if possible. Get a rubber bellows, not a plastic one.
Yeah, I wish there was a way to replace the bellows without removing the pivot bolts and housing but I don’t know how to do it. Would save time and knuckles.
How does the wire supposed to be inside the rubber bellow
what is sealing the stern drive when you put the drive shaft back in? Seems like just that layer of blue grease at 17:38? Is there a gasket or sealing compound?
PhoRunner Channel - it’s just the blue grease. No gasket or sealing compound. I will coat the grease on thicker next time.
@@ninjapatton thanks. i saw that too in the shop manual!
Great video, was helpful.
Glad to hear it!
I can not for the life of me get my drive shaft far enough into the gimbal to make contact with the engine coupler! Don’t know what to do!
The splines on the out drive need to line up with the engine. Make sure battery is disconnected first. Then have someone slightly move the prop left and right to move the splines while slightly pushing the out drive forward in to the engine. Moving the prop left and right will help line up the splines.
We have done that multiple times over the past week. I am able to slide the alignment tool in with minimal effort but once I try the drive I only can get it to go in to a certain spot just outside the bolts. Only once have I had it in far enough so I could not turn the prop then I knew I was splined. I sure that it’s an alignment issue but I can not tell what direction to go with the mounting nuts. Nothing changes after I adjust the nuts up or down. I am still able to push the alignment tool into the bearing and then onto the coupler with minimal change in the effect.
@@ontheone9559Ok. It still sounds like your drive shaft on the outdrive isn't getting properly lined up with the splines in the engine. I had to move my prop quite a bit to get it lined up. And once the outdrive shaft is in, it should turn freely unless your outdrive is in gear (I think, I'm not 100% on this.). I would recommend taking your issues over to the forums in iboats. TONS of knowledge there and I use that forum for my boat questions.
Ok great idea
If you’re going to that much in maintenance, replace the upper and lower impellers.
@@sethpotter9592 There’s only one impeller and that’s located on the front of the engine. Gets replaced yearly.
How did you put the exhaust bellow so no clamp just just a clip? How did you install it? My exhaust bellow came off seems like they just used contact cement or glue before.
There is a clamp. I also used adhesive. Was a regular screw clamp and there’s a ground cable that goes on it.
@@ninjapatton The end of the exhaust bellow Goes inside the lip not over the lip.. As to why it doesn’t come with the bottom clamp so how do you put one on?
@@jayrico95 Mine goes over the lip, and my Sx-m shop manual shows it going over the lip and also shows the clamps. If I could post a photo of the manual I would.
Question - do you not run with a trim fin?
Nope. Installed nautilus trim tabs. I ran a fin for a few months and wasn't happy with the performance so upgraded to trim tabs.
What a boss!
so I'm here in 2021 because my gimbal bearing bellows (same SX outdrive) cracked which (I guess) allowed water in and washed all the grease out of the bearing which then self-destructed in violent fashion, ruining the transom assembly..... sad face. Wish I had caught that cracked bellows sooner.
Thanks for this video. I am getting ready to embark on this project. Am I missing the exhaust bellows on your parts list or is it included in the bellows kit part. I can't figure it out from the descriptions online. Thanks
Forgot to put it in the list: Part 3850426
www.marinepartssource.com/volvo-penta-sx-exhaust-bellows-volvo-penta-3850426?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpNr4BRDYARIsAADIx9yHHOVhMCBCqs4NF4CRiWSnj805OVb_s3FzGRt-F7PZncOG9-PXWKQaAkCcEALw_wcB
@@ninjapatton Okay, I'm not going crazy. Thanks and thanks for the great video
Was there a wire inside the gimbal bellow
No
Do you know the purpose of that hole in bottom of the plastic inlet nipple
@@edwardhargroves4828 I don’t. I assume to let air in to help with pressure but I’m really not sure.
Buongiorno video interessante
Come fare acquisti di materiale volvo penta dps sx-m
Stelo pistone
Non riesco ha trovarlo
Giuseppe
What about the trim indicator? Did you skip it? I think I see it hanging off to the right side. How do you remove and reinstall it? The workshop manual lists a bunch of steps to replacing it, but can you just mark its' position before removal and then remount it in the same position?
James Salisbury - I took it off. Two screws. You have to take it off to access the pivot bolt. Then put it back on, trimmed the engine down and adjusted it. Took less than a minute.
@@ninjapatton - Thanks, I basically did that. Noticed its apparently still off a little. I'll try removing and re-tweaking it.
Don’t remove it, just loosen the screws and have someone watch the trim indicator. When it shows full down, tighten the screws.
@@ninjapatton Gotcha. I think it's probably close enough to do just that.
I"m getting a vibration on my sx-m outdrive when turning left or right or when not centered almost perfectly with the trim, could it be the ujoints wearing out? Just replaced gimbal bearing and had some other work done at the marina.
It's the joints. I had the same problem last year. There was no vibration when the drive was straight but whenever I turned left or right there was alot of vibration and a grinding noise. My joints failed
Hayden Amsden same thing happens when you get old go figure
@@roberthowell3906 😁😁😁😁😁😁😁
Turned out it wasn’t the joints it was the gimbal bearing had literally popped out of place and slid back on the shaft. It wiped out the seal on the upper Outdrive unit as well and all the gear ⚙️ oil filled the bellows. No idea how that happened it was installed by a marina less than 1 hour of run time in it. Maybe poor installation or wrong part installed.
Nice video! One question (maybe a stupid one...). What is the purpose of the little holes in the exhaust bellow? My boat went to the shop and they mounted the exhaust bellow with the little holes pointed sidewards (not downwards as mentioned in your video). What can be the consequences of this?
I'm not an expert but will tell you what I have been told about the exhaust bellows: 1. a lot of boats don't even use them, the exhaust just goes in to the water, 2. the holes help water drain out once you pull the boat out of the water so it doesn't go back in to the exhaust. If it were me, I would take a small drill bit and BY HAND drill some small holes in the bottom of the exhaust bellow so it can drain out. The holes on the side won't do much.
The holes go down. They are to drain the water. Guessing your shop did not know.
Nice Video, can you tell me what the part number is for the O-Rings on the spline shaft?
Matt Coffey - O-rings (2) - p/n 997368-2
What size are the pivot bolts on yours. Are they metric triple square? Thanks and thank you for the video!
Dave Scott - mine were 1/2 hex pattern. I think I show the specific tool in the video at the 19:28 mark
@@ninjapatton Yes missed that. I found the Mercruiser Hinge Pin Tool 91-78310
will also work. Thank you for the video
Naic video
Great video. Where did you find the manual? I need to purchase on for my similar Penta SX.
Daren Hoelscher - I found it online years ago. Go search on iforums at iboat and see if anyone has a copy. Dm me and I will see if I can find my digital copy.
Check my reply above for free online manual you can save to hard drive print or just lookup has engines and drives oem shop manual. Boatinfo.no gotta have flashplayer on device website nav is a little weird it has a little slider tab to scroll.
Follow up after 2 years?……..
Hey Buddy, what did you torque all the stern nuts too
Adrian Nino - the pivot bolts tighten 105-120 ft lbs.
Please, you did a great job breaking down the parts but How about the Pivot pin tool. Can you share the size and where to buy. My pin does not use the typical "Star" drive. It is a fine star with guessing 16-20 points.
Stephen Hammock - mine is a hexagon. Got the tool at an auto parts store. Not sure how to add a photo or I could send you what it looks like.
It's 1/2" hex socket. Same as an allen wrench but in a socket.
Try a 1/2 hex. You might be surprised.
What tool did you use to Remove the pivot pins?
It’s a hex socket piece. Check out the 1:30 mark. I got it at autozone.
So did you end up using the alignment tool?
Yes sir. Got one off eBay.
thanks for skipping the part where you disconnected the bell housing
I didn’t disconnect it. Left it on.
TUBO GEOMETRIA VARIABILE VOLVO 190 D3
How long did this take you? Thanks
First time was about 4.5 hours, but I also went really slow and that includes half hour to build the out drive cart. Now that I have some tips and tricks, can probably do it in under 2.
Where did you get your manual
Found it online. Took me a while and surfing through some sites but finally found it for free.
Ever find out if you use lock tight on the swival bolts?
Nothing in the service manual about adding locktite. Just says 105-120 ft lb.
Where did you order your manual from?
I found it online for free a few years ago. Now you have to pay for it.
Ok thanks
I miss Carlos and charlies here...
Mike Allmon - yep! I worked there from 1997-2000. Was a fun and crazy place.
@@ninjapatton we have been a million times! the frog dip!!! MMMMMMMMMM!!
After watching this and reading about bellows don't think I want a boat. Looks like it's about a 1000 bucks a summer just in maintenance.
bellows isn't an annual job
I tend to agree, but the Volvo manual says the Gimbal bearing needs to be inspected and greased yearly, which means at least pulling the outdrive. But I think bellows could go multiple years depending on use.
@@ninjapatton I just bought a boat where the guy polished and babied it for more than 20 years. He used it a few times each summer. I bought it off him and asked when he last replaced the bellows. He never did, and never pulled the outdrive...which is why he didn't see the exhaust flapper obstructing the exhaust ports. But boy did he grease the gimbal bearing. Bellows was full of grease. I figure those are original 1996 bellows and they were amazing. So, likely depends on how much use and the environment. I think the yearly maintenance is Volvo Penta "anus protectus" covering the worst usage conditions.
Why were you replacing the exhaust and ujoint bellows? Was it causing any issues?
Mine is completely open at one of the ridges. My boat is also overheating. Would an open bellows cause overheating?
Also, maybe another dumb question, do you have to take it all apart? I watched another video (not the same Volvo Penta model, mind you) that did not take it all apart. If not replacing the ujoint bellows, just the exhaust bellows, could some steps be saved?
I am not paying a mechanic $800 either, but I'm not entirely confident in being able to do it myself!
I needed to get in and check the gimbal bearing as I had no idea how long it had been on the boat or if it had ever been serviced. I’m the second owner. You do have to remove the outdrive to replace the ujoint bellow but don’t have to remove the drive for the exhaust bellow. And I know guys who don’t have an exhaust bellow, I don’t think it’s required.
As for over-heating, I don’t think the bellows have anything to do with that. BUT I AM NOT A MECHANIC. Consult a mechanic if you have issues. My guess, it’s your impeller. I change mine yearly. Takes 5 minutes. I use only OEM.
Bellows should not cause overheating.
That is a brand new starter on there it's not on my dog