I've been following New England Rope's videos on Brummel splicing, and it's worked for me. Your technique for creating the splices is waaay more user-friendly than theirs! I feel like I've been doing it wrong the whole time after watching your vid! (Of course, I've been climbing for years on my splices and I have yet to fall out of a tree so I'd say I'm doing it right, just way more time consuming and awkward) Subbed!
Where can I acquire one of those rope needles? I'd love to make my own gear and your video shows me how I can save a ton of money on gear. Could you show me a link where to get this? Cheers, Jerbs.
Would it be too much trouble to put heat shrink on the eye loop before I make it so that I can have the eyes contained and protected? Sorry if my terminology is confusing, I’m just looking into splicing. Great demonstration!
I have never seen that done. I suppose you could try it but it would definitely complicate the splice. If you do try it be really careful not to overheat the core strands when shrinking the tubing.
Yes, you can do a Brummel splice around pretty much anything you want. Arborists commonly use Brummel splices around rigging rings and through eyes on pulleys to create rigging slings.
The heat-shrink tubing just makes it really easy to cover up the ragged ends of the cover. But if you want you can leave the heat-shrink tubing off and just apply the whiplock directly over the end of the cover. If you want to see some really pretty examples of whiplocking without the heat-shrink tubing, visit the "show us your splices" forum on the Treebuzz website.
If you use the larger fid you get a deeper bury, which makes the prusik stiffer and harder to use. So I go with the smaller fid. It is plenty strong and I have never seen one pull apart or show any sign of breaking, even when they get old and worn.
The red stuff I used in this video is 1/2" diameter. It remains flexible after you shrink it. If you want to see another way of doing the whiplock check out my video on how to do an eye-to-eye prusik in Teufelberger HRC cord. In that video I do the whiplock first and then put the heatshrink tubing over the whiplock. I think it looks nicer. But either way works.
You do not want to put steel or plastic thimbles into the eyes of eye&eye prusik cords. You want the eyes to be small so they fit tightly around the carabiner and can be squeezed together if you are going to insert the eyes between the side plates of pulleys like the DMM Pinto. Thimbles add a lot of bulk and do not fit tightly around the carabiner, so they just get in the way.
@@sebastianostrowski707 you can use this for an eye to eye, if the cord you are splicing is Yale beeline.. Otherwise different cords use different techniques and some cannot be spliced safely (eg green Armorprus).
What if I'm not splicing with a fid, how many inches should I measure? So I did some calculations and for the second mark for a 29' would be 10inches. I could then measure 3.5 down from that?
A fid for any length of rope is 21 picks. A pick is a level of threads of the rope. Samson rope has great instructions on their website that might explain it better if you don't understand my interpretation.
Do we do anything special to the eyes to protect them from wear or not necessarily? Also do you use these for life support or rigging or both? Thanks from a newbie.
Other than giving the eyes a coat of polyurathane you don't need to do anything to them. Over time they will start to look fuzzy from wear, but that is not a big deal. I primarily use them for life support on moving rope and/or stationary rope systems. But they can also be used in many rigging situations, including progress capture in mechanical advantage systems.
@@roberthall6195 There is not a lot of info out there on splicing Ocean Poly because the manufacturer says it cannot be spliced. But it is easy to splice using a standard Class 1 splice. It has a polyester core and and 50:50 cover of polyester/kevlar, so I just use a standard class 1 double-braid splice. If you do splice it, be sure to use a Yale Whiplock to lock the splice so it cannot work loose. If you are new to splicing, be sure to get onto the Treebuzz website and start browsing the Splicing Forum. There are a bunch of splicers on there who will treat you nice and will be happy to give advice.
¿Y la homologación de ese cordino quién se la da? ¿Tú? Usar algo así es de apreciar muy poco la vida, o de ser muy insensato, hay útiles parecidos en el mercado con su homologación, como una simple cinta de dinema. Ni por un millón de euros me cuelgo de ese cordino, suerte amigo.
I have been hanging on them for years Jero, and have never seen one break or even look like it was going to break under normal use. Plus I have had break tests done on them and they typically do not break at anything less than about 7,000 lbs in a basket hitch configuration. But if you choose to not do your own splicing and buy your gear from a reputable dealer, that is fine by me. In fact, for the vast majority of climbers who do no want to take the time to learn to splice, that is what I would recommend.
@@ericforsman7787 Hi Erik, the videos are great. I've been climbing on these e2e's for a couple of years now. I really like them but would like to get some tested. Could I test used ones or is new better? Is basket configuration the best way to break test an e2e or is a straight pull OK?
@@Fredward1986 Since they are normally used in a basket configuration that is the way I think they should be tested. Which ones you test kind of depends on the question you are asking. If you want to determine the strength of a newly spliced hitch cord then you would obviously test a new version. If you are curious about the strength of a well-used hitch cord, then you could certainly do a test on one of your old ones.
Great video, I always struggled with the mobius splice, but the way you showed it, I got it.
I've been following New England Rope's videos on Brummel splicing, and it's worked for me. Your technique for creating the splices is waaay more user-friendly than theirs! I feel like I've been doing it wrong the whole time after watching your vid! (Of course, I've been climbing for years on my splices and I have yet to fall out of a tree so I'd say I'm doing it right, just way more time consuming and awkward) Subbed!
Excellent how to video 👍🏻
Is this the splice for 8 mm beeline as well? This is a fantastic tutorial. Thank you
Yes, but you can technically make it with a little less cordage if you wanna make it according to the exact minimums for the smaller diameter
excellent demonstration and explanation
Thanks!
Why does beeline say their rope is not hand spliceable.
Thanks so much for this video! Is 8mm beeline the same splice?
Procedure is the same, but the smaller diameter would allow you to use Slightly shorter measurements, but if you use these numbers, you'll be way good
Where can I acquire one of those rope needles? I'd love to make my own gear and your video shows me how I can save a ton of money on gear. Could you show me a link where to get this? Cheers, Jerbs.
Tubular fids and Swedish Fids can be purchased from Wesspur or Treestuff. Either type of fid works well for this splice.
@@ericforsman7787 thank you!
Would it be too much trouble to put heat shrink on the eye loop before I make it so that I can have the eyes contained and protected? Sorry if my terminology is confusing, I’m just looking into splicing. Great demonstration!
I have never seen that done. I suppose you could try it but it would definitely complicate the splice. If you do try it be really careful not to overheat the core strands when shrinking the tubing.
Can you do this type of splice on a pulley?
Yes, you can do a Brummel splice around pretty much anything you want. Arborists commonly use Brummel splices around rigging rings and through eyes on pulleys to create rigging slings.
Thanks for the video. Is there an advantage to applying shrink wrap before stitching?
The heat-shrink tubing just makes it really easy to cover up the ragged ends of the cover. But if you want you can leave the heat-shrink tubing off and just apply the whiplock directly over the end of the cover. If you want to see some really pretty examples of whiplocking without the heat-shrink tubing, visit the "show us your splices" forum on the Treebuzz website.
Good job buddy :)
3/8th fid is for 9mm. if this is 10mm beeline wouldn't it be a 7/16" fid?
If you use the larger fid you get a deeper bury, which makes the prusik stiffer and harder to use. So I go with the smaller fid. It is plenty strong and I have never seen one pull apart or show any sign of breaking, even when they get old and worn.
Thank you for sharing, it has been a great guide following along with your videos.@@ericforsman7787
Hello sir Vince here appreciate you taking your time to educate us. Could you tell me where I might buy phids
Tubular fids can be purchased from many online sources. I get mine from arborist supply houses like Wesspur.com and Treestuff.com.
Or make your own out of fat aluminum knitting needles, and $ave.
How did you decide 20” was the right amount to cut off? is it equal to the amount you are going to bury?
Trial and error.
@@ericforsman7787 aw man. I had hoped it had been derived mathematically
What size heatshrink do you use? And is it rubbery?
The red stuff I used in this video is 1/2" diameter. It remains flexible after you shrink it. If you want to see another way of doing the whiplock check out my video on how to do an eye-to-eye prusik in Teufelberger HRC cord. In that video I do the whiplock first and then put the heatshrink tubing over the whiplock. I think it looks nicer. But either way works.
is it important or worth it to add/insert those steel eyes into the splices?
You do not want to put steel or plastic thimbles into the eyes of eye&eye prusik cords. You want the eyes to be small so they fit tightly around the carabiner and can be squeezed together if you are going to insert the eyes between the side plates of pulleys like the DMM Pinto. Thimbles add a lot of bulk and do not fit tightly around the carabiner, so they just get in the way.
Can I do this using part of climbing rope? If yes better will be to use dynamic or static rope?
Brummel splices are not used on climbing ropes. There are other splices that can be used on double-braid climbing ropes or 16-strand climbing ropes.
@@bethjolarsen so which splice can I use to do Eye to Eye prusik cord on climbing rope?
@@sebastianostrowski707 you can use this for an eye to eye, if the cord you are splicing is Yale beeline.. Otherwise different cords use different techniques and some cannot be spliced safely (eg green Armorprus).
What kind of scissors are those? That stuf is tough to cut!
They are Clauss serrated splicing scissors. Available from Treestuff.com for $19.95.
Thank you sir!
What if I'm not splicing with a fid, how many inches should I measure? So I did some calculations and for the second mark for a 29' would be 10inches. I could then measure 3.5 down from that?
A fid for any length of rope is 21 picks. A pick is a level of threads of the rope. Samson rope has great instructions on their website that might explain it better if you don't understand my interpretation.
How long is the fid?
I use a 3/8" (9mm) fid, which is 7.75" long.
@@ericforsman7787 thanks for the quick reply. Will try to make one soon.
Fid length is 21 rope diameters. So a 3/8in fid is 7”7/8. 1 fid for a 10mm rope is 21cm, a short fidlength is 7cm, and a long fidlength is 14cm.
Do we do anything special to the eyes to protect them from wear or not necessarily? Also do you use these for life support or rigging or both? Thanks from a newbie.
Other than giving the eyes a coat of polyurathane you don't need to do anything to them. Over time they will start to look fuzzy from wear, but that is not a big deal. I primarily use them for life support on moving rope and/or stationary rope systems. But they can also be used in many rigging situations, including progress capture in mechanical advantage systems.
Will this work with other class two friction cord? Looking at ocean
No. But Ocean is easy to splice with a double braid splice.
Eric Forsman class 1 or class 2 ? I am fairly new to splicing and am not finding specific information on Ocean 10mm
@@roberthall6195 There is not a lot of info out there on splicing Ocean Poly because the manufacturer says it cannot be spliced. But it is easy to splice using a standard Class 1 splice. It has a polyester core and and 50:50 cover of polyester/kevlar, so I just use a standard class 1 double-braid splice. If you do splice it, be sure to use a Yale Whiplock to lock the splice so it cannot work loose. If you are new to splicing, be sure to get onto the Treebuzz website and start browsing the Splicing Forum. There are a bunch of splicers on there who will treat you nice and will be happy to give advice.
Eric Forsman thank you
For Ocean Poly I use a double-braid splice
¿Y la homologación de ese cordino quién se la da? ¿Tú?
Usar algo así es de apreciar muy poco la vida, o de ser muy insensato, hay útiles parecidos en el mercado con su homologación, como una simple cinta de dinema. Ni por un millón de euros me cuelgo de ese cordino, suerte amigo.
I have been hanging on them for years Jero, and have never seen one break or even look like it was going to break under normal use. Plus I have had break tests done on them and they typically do not break at anything less than about 7,000 lbs in a basket hitch configuration. But if you choose to not do your own splicing and buy your gear from a reputable dealer, that is fine by me. In fact, for the vast majority of climbers who do no want to take the time to learn to splice, that is what I would recommend.
@@ericforsman7787 awesome reply.
@@ericforsman7787 Hi Erik, the videos are great. I've been climbing on these e2e's for a couple of years now. I really like them but would like to get some tested. Could I test used ones or is new better? Is basket configuration the best way to break test an e2e or is a straight pull OK?
@@Fredward1986 Since they are normally used in a basket configuration that is the way I think they should be tested. Which ones you test kind of depends on the question you are asking. If you want to determine the strength of a newly spliced hitch cord then you would obviously test a new version. If you are curious about the strength of a well-used hitch cord, then you could certainly do a test on one of your old ones.
So many times saying "ok" makes it harder to watch
Thanks for the input Matt. I will try to avoid that if I make more videos.