Update: the drain valve at the bottom of the catch can kinda sucks, because it doesn’t seal properly. Replace the valve with a 3/8 NPT fitting from LOWES! www.lowes.com/pd/BrassCraft-3-8-in-x-1-8-in-Threaded-Adapter-Bushing-Fitting/50380992
thank you g. Mainly people with turbo applications run something like this, there’s honestly only two brands I know that make a setup like this, Dynosty and Bull Boost Performance, the Dynosty CC is nice and I was going to buy it but they never emailed me back if it was in stock and the Bull Boost CC was not attractive to me haha that’s why I built my own. dynosty.com/shop/dynosty-350z-vq35-catch-can-kit/ www.bullboostperformance.com/product-page/vq35de-revup-g35-350z-baffled-oil-catch-can-complete-crank-case-breather-kit
spitting on the belts lol....i dint think it will spit tho....that was prob taken into the design. as long as its emptied it will prob be fine. I have had a add w-1 for years and it works awsome for 1/3 price
thank you man, this guy above me doesn’t know about a vent system, he made a comment and thinks there’s no venting system bc he says there’s no vacuum. Which isn’t true, the pressure will escape either way.
That’s a vented system so depending how good your piston rings seal you might see some oil residue coming out the vent, I ran the same type from both valve cover PCV’s and my driver side was spewing oil 😂 just some insight, that can is clean and that location 🙏🏻
It’s a baffled can so that wouldn’t happen. My filter is turning brown tho but that’s from the fumes venting out, it’s not oily or anything not sure if that’s what you refer to. The oil gets captured very well in the steel baffling system I looked inside to see how it works I’ll make a video soon explaining it all bro. 👍
DEI Pipe Black Wrap. You can find these anywhere at a local auto store www.autozone.com/tie-down-and-cargo-management/zip-tie/p/design-engineering-pipe-wrap-and-locking-ties-kit/403586_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:PEL:8362738212&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkP-VoemM9wIVZRtlCh0jpQoiEAkYASABEgKIMfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds I’m also planning on wrapping the intake in heat reflective tape, then adding the DEI wrap again.
With all the modifications you have , do you feel a difference in hp? Can you maybe later on put a mod list in your description? Great video! I have a 04 g35 wanting to find different ways to improve the car overall
Yessss, sometimes you can add one mod and you won’t necessarily feel a big difference but when the mods add up that’s really when they work together and support each other, that’s when you feel more power. The mods I have don’t need a tune however: if I were to get a tune they would def increase the power even more, I will make a future mod list video too and describe everything and their benefits etc. I’m in the process of making a video exposing why this is the best setup for a VQ and the benefits etc, thanks for the view bro 😎 oh and I will start putting a full mod list of everything I have done to the G in all my videos under the description from now on.
I’ll try and make a video on it. & yes it’s catching oil, on my last video I actually opened up the plenum again to install thermal gaskets for heat management and you can see my whole plenum system is dry and clean 1000+ miles later.
the valance for the bottom correct? honestly I came to realize it sucks and it leaked. I bought a 3/8 NPT fitting from LOWES. Of course apply the tape on the thread.
Dayum that looks nice! How's it been performing? Do you have a tutorial on how you cleaned up your ignition coil wiring harness? I'm about to replace the valve covers on my '06 6MT and I'm figuring it'll be a good time to get that sorted
It definitely does catch oil, however when I went to empty it out I noticed there was barely any, the draining plug doesn’t have the best seal so most of the oil actually leaks out from the drain plug, I’m going to seal it with silicone so it stops leaking. & I do it’s on my channel it’s a full wire tuck, it’s a lengthy process but it’s worth it bc it make replicating coil packs spark plugs etc much easier, it’ll be a weekend job for sure just having the right tools will help.
The driver side valve cover has an inlet port, connecting from the intake pipe, which is for incoming air to flow into the valve cover, no pressure comes out from that valve cover port*** also I can’t argue about you said because I don’t know if that is true or not, but I don’t think that is correct, why would the valve cover need air going inside? I see jo benefit in that but at the same time the way the intake port flows straight to the valve cover port some of it makes sense.
With a pcv setup, the intake sucks on the pcv valve, when the pcv valve opens it sucks the valve covers, in order to get more air the driver valve cover has a port to go to the intake, after the MAF sensor, so the extra air it’s trying to suck is metered by the MAF. On a vented setup it’s not needed since there’s no vacuum. The way you did it is correct but a vented catch can is more for turbo/track setups
I didn’t feel a difference after adding this catch can setup. Everyone has their owns thoughts on difference catch can setups, if you want to play it safe instead of doing a vented catch can like this, just do a normal hose to catch catch hose to plenum/intake. The point is of course to catch oil and not soak up your plenum and valves, plus it would probably be cheaper getting 2 eBay catch cans for 30 each, getting some hoses from autozone etc and then just making a custom bracket etc.
@@MannyVQ ahh, I’m not sure tbh I bought a vacuum plug kit from my local auto parts store and it came with various sizes. But based on this forum post it does say 5/8 g35driver.com/forums/general-tech-questions/297622-engine-bay-hose-sizes.html
super easy, just buy vacuum plugs and hose clamps. You’ll lose a little coolant once u remove the hose but not a lot but still make sure not a lot of air entered the cooling system.
@@reneduran3675 you’re correct that this hose does pass coolant to the other side, BUT it’s for emission purposes only meaning that it is meant to warm up the car faster bc it passes the coolant from another side, The coolant will still circulate through the engine, it won’t affect anything at all so you don’t have to worry about it, it’s called the heater hose delete you’ll find many people on forums have done this, just make sure the plug fits nice and firm and you tighten it was a stainless steel hose clamp the belt looking clamp that you tighten with a screwdriver.
@@Vlad_Shv technically speaking yes. Engineers make engines run warm/hot so it can warm up fast for convenience. Engines should actually run at their given temperature, hence why you should run a thermostatic oil cooler if you do decide to run one, as opposed to running an oil cooler with no thermostat, oil running too cool is also not a good thing. Check out janthony video on race vs oem thermostats, from what I remember even tho the race thermostat opens early, it’s best to run the oem for daily drivers, so your car can run warm and not too cold. The race thermostat is best for track use or turbo use.
yeah bro I totally forgot to put it in the description lol www.ebay.com/itm/194274115812?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Wcxk4pxEQIe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=WU8nDobjRKq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
One that would allow a v3 SC kit which the one you put on doesn’t( cool if that’s your preference and don’t plan on being boosted ). IMO the SoHo 3n1 combo that ties a drip line back into the oil pan, and holds the power steering and coolant reservoir is a really nice one. Only have to check the reservoir every once in a while to see if it’s draining into the drip line or not. 10/10 no problems even when ran on a v3 set up. Sits right next to the wiper fluid.
How the hell that thing work ??? Because I see you connect the pcv to the Oil catch can and connect to the other valve cover , so my question is ? How the hell you take the Crank case pressure out there because you delete the Vacuum line from the plenum to suck the gases from the engine ?? That thing don’t work in all man you Waste your time, now the engine goin to built a lot pressure and no vacuum line to Release depression out the crankcase you never goin to see oil in that Catch can because is no vacuum line to suck the gases 🤣. Remember the driver side head cover is connected to the intake filter that is the clean air entry to the engine and the pcv is connected to the plenum to suck the moister and gases from en engine , so take out the driver connection and put on the plenum vacuum and the drive head cover entry content to the intake filter like the factory
I can tell you’re new to cars, it’s one thing to ask questions and learn but to act like you’re right and act like a dick is another thing lmao. Not to mention your poor grammar and how you managed to edit your comment yet fail to correct your grammar.
The pressure comes from the crankcase, the pressure on the passenger pcv side runs through the passenger pcv side hose, into the catch can then exists from the top of the filter, during this process the pressure exiting from the passenger pcv side is strong enough to push oil through the passenger pcv side hose, which ends up being captured inside the oil catch can, and that’s why it’s called and oil catch can, next: on the driver pcv side the same process applies but you’re stupid so let me carefully explain, the pressure from the driver pcv side runs through the driver pcv side and escapes through the oil catch can air filter or breather filter, sometimes the pressure is strong enough from the driver pcv side to bring oil through the driver pcv side so the pressures exits through the air filter and inside the oil catch can the oil is caught because it has a baffling system where oil gets captured and the pressure can escape through the air filter without bring up oil. You don’t need vacuum to release the pressure, what’s my proof? Oil will get captured inside the oil catch can, which means the pressure itself escapes and doesn’t need vacuum to vent itself. Don’t believe me? There’s a 900+ hp g35 with this same setup and running perfect, you’re making it seem like you’re wrong theory is going to build pressure inside and blow up lmao, pressure is air, air will always find a way to escape, good day tard.
@@THXIIIRTEEN that the problem the engine building pressure from the crankcase , is like Boiling eggs but in this case you boiling the oil engine because you delete en entrance from the engine to Receive fresh air in the crankcases. You can look you self how the vacuum line from the pcv are very important,and trust me that setup are wrong , if you see oil in you catch can is because wast build whit a lot pressure and that pressure you don’t want went you see a lot oil licking you know why, engineers create that for a reason, Replace the old gases from crankcase to new air crankcase . simple.
Finally someone doing catch can set ups with both pcv sides plummed 🤝 Looks good my man!
thank you my G 😎 glad I could help and inform.
Update: the drain valve at the bottom of the catch can kinda sucks, because it doesn’t seal properly. Replace the valve with a 3/8 NPT fitting from LOWES!
www.lowes.com/pd/BrassCraft-3-8-in-x-1-8-in-Threaded-Adapter-Bushing-Fitting/50380992
I have not seen a DE catch can routed like that yet. It appears there are many ways to accomplish the same goal. Bay looks super clean man!
thank you g. Mainly people with turbo applications run something like this, there’s honestly only two brands I know that make a setup like this, Dynosty and Bull Boost Performance, the Dynosty CC is nice and I was going to buy it but they never emailed me back if it was in stock and the Bull Boost CC was not attractive to me haha that’s why I built my own.
dynosty.com/shop/dynosty-350z-vq35-catch-can-kit/
www.bullboostperformance.com/product-page/vq35de-revup-g35-350z-baffled-oil-catch-can-complete-crank-case-breather-kit
@@DEATHWISHVQ It looks great.
spitting on the belts lol....i dint think it will spit tho....that was prob taken into the design. as long as its emptied it will prob be fine. I have had a add w-1 for years and it works awsome for 1/3 price
Cleanest engine bay I’ve seen on a G 🔥thinking about getting a catch can too!
Big mistake if you do that 🤣
thank you man, this guy above me doesn’t know about a vent system, he made a comment and thinks there’s no venting system bc he says there’s no vacuum. Which isn’t true, the pressure will escape either way.
Bro I been waiting for you to make this vid😂 Keep it up man!
hell yeah bro thank you. luv helping out the VQ fam 👍 DIY for the win.
That’s a vented system so depending how good your piston rings seal you might see some oil residue coming out the vent, I ran the same type from both valve cover PCV’s and my driver side was spewing oil 😂 just some insight, that can is clean and that location 🙏🏻
It’s a baffled can so that wouldn’t happen. My filter is turning brown tho but that’s from the fumes venting out, it’s not oily or anything not sure if that’s what you refer to. The oil gets captured very well in the steel baffling system I looked inside to see how it works I’ll make a video soon explaining it all bro. 👍
where was it leaking oil from? My car has been smoking from the back of the engine after installing this
Wow excellent info and thorough a that I gotta install this on mine bro thanks again 👍
this is more of a setup for a boosted application
Great video man , what’s the cold air intake wrap you have? Where can I purchase it for my cold air intake to wrap it and keep it cool
DEI Pipe Black Wrap. You can find these anywhere at a local auto store www.autozone.com/tie-down-and-cargo-management/zip-tie/p/design-engineering-pipe-wrap-and-locking-ties-kit/403586_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:PEL:8362738212&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkP-VoemM9wIVZRtlCh0jpQoiEAkYASABEgKIMfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds I’m also planning on wrapping the intake in heat reflective tape, then adding the DEI wrap again.
With all the modifications you have , do you feel a difference in hp? Can you maybe later on put a mod list in your description? Great video! I have a 04 g35 wanting to find different ways to improve the car overall
Yessss, sometimes you can add one mod and you won’t necessarily feel a big difference but when the mods add up that’s really when they work together and support each other, that’s when you feel more power. The mods I have don’t need a tune however: if I were to get a tune they would def increase the power even more, I will make a future mod list video too and describe everything and their benefits etc. I’m in the process of making a video exposing why this is the best setup for a VQ and the benefits etc, thanks for the view bro 😎 oh and I will start putting a full mod list of everything I have done to the G in all my videos under the description from now on.
You have any updates how your catch can is doing? Is it catching oil? And is your plenum staying clean no oil residue? Thanks
I’ll try and make a video on it. & yes it’s catching oil, on my last video I actually opened up the plenum again to install thermal gaskets for heat management and you can see my whole plenum system is dry and clean 1000+ miles later.
Hey, which way is the valve supposed to turn to be closed and open? I installed the catch catch, looks awesome.
the valance for the bottom correct? honestly I came to realize it sucks and it leaked. I bought a 3/8 NPT fitting from LOWES. Of course apply the tape on the thread.
hey bro what’s the thread size for that pcv delete fitting, do you have a part number?
In desperate need of that
Dayum that looks nice! How's it been performing? Do you have a tutorial on how you cleaned up your ignition coil wiring harness? I'm about to replace the valve covers on my '06 6MT and I'm figuring it'll be a good time to get that sorted
It definitely does catch oil, however when I went to empty it out I noticed there was barely any, the draining plug doesn’t have the best seal so most of the oil actually leaks out from the drain plug, I’m going to seal it with silicone so it stops leaking. & I do it’s on my channel it’s a full wire tuck, it’s a lengthy process but it’s worth it bc it make replicating coil packs spark plugs etc much easier, it’ll be a weekend job for sure just having the right tools will help.
Ah, ok, I may hold up on the catch can or now. Thanks for the info on the wire tuck @@DEATHWISHVQ. New sub here!
The driver side valve cover is just a hole for air to go in from the intake nothing comes out, from there
The driver side valve cover has an inlet port, connecting from the intake pipe, which is for incoming air to flow into the valve cover, no pressure comes out from that valve cover port***
also I can’t argue about you said because I don’t know if that is true or not, but I don’t think that is correct, why would the valve cover need air going inside? I see jo benefit in that but at the same time the way the intake port flows straight to the valve cover port some of it makes sense.
With a pcv setup, the intake sucks on the pcv valve, when the pcv valve opens it sucks the valve covers, in order to get more air the driver valve cover has a port to go to the intake, after the MAF sensor, so the extra air it’s trying to suck is metered by the MAF. On a vented setup it’s not needed since there’s no vacuum. The way you did it is correct but a vented catch can is more for turbo/track setups
So where does the port that comes out of the lower plenum connects too after deleting the PCV
It’s all in the video. Are you talking about the small pipe that has a slight blend? It’s plugged up
Hey bro have you felt any power loss from capping off the intake and plenum?
I didn’t feel a difference after adding this catch can setup. Everyone has their owns thoughts on difference catch can setups, if you want to play it safe instead of doing a vented catch can like this, just do a normal hose to catch catch hose to plenum/intake. The point is of course to catch oil and not soak up your plenum and valves, plus it would probably be cheaper getting 2 eBay catch cans for 30 each, getting some hoses from autozone etc and then just making a custom bracket etc.
Big thanks 👍🇨🇵
What size is that coolant delete bypass block off valve 5/8 ?
At what time stamp? are you referring to the rubber plugs that replace the front coolant hose?
@@DEATHWISHVQyeah 3:28
@@MannyVQ ahh, I’m not sure tbh I bought a vacuum plug kit from my local auto parts store and it came with various sizes. But based on this forum post it does say 5/8 g35driver.com/forums/general-tech-questions/297622-engine-bay-hose-sizes.html
Did you link the adapter for the left side connection to Steal line
yes.
Im gonna get this for my G
Hey what about that coolant hose in front of the cam heads ? How did you bybass that ?
super easy, just buy vacuum plugs and hose clamps. You’ll lose a little coolant once u remove the hose but not a lot but still make sure not a lot of air entered the cooling system.
Awesome man thanks for the info !!! Also , how’s is it safe to delete that front heater hose because isn’t it there to circulate to the other side ?
@@reneduran3675 you’re correct that this hose does pass coolant to the other side, BUT it’s for emission purposes only meaning that it is meant to warm up the car faster bc it passes the coolant from another side, The coolant will still circulate through the engine, it won’t affect anything at all so you don’t have to worry about it, it’s called the heater hose delete you’ll find many people on forums have done this, just make sure the plug fits nice and firm and you tighten it was a stainless steel hose clamp the belt looking clamp that you tighten with a screwdriver.
@@Vlad_Shv technically speaking yes. Engineers make engines run warm/hot so it can warm up fast for convenience. Engines should actually run at their given temperature, hence why you should run a thermostatic oil cooler if you do decide to run one, as opposed to running an oil cooler with no thermostat, oil running too cool is also not a good thing. Check out janthony video on race vs oem thermostats, from what I remember even tho the race thermostat opens early, it’s best to run the oem for daily drivers, so your car can run warm and not too cold. The race thermostat is best for track use or turbo use.
@@Vlad_Shv correction: th-cam.com/video/rFY3iduvjxM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_W9L5OQFg3cpmreU
Do you have the link for the -10an PCV delete..
yeah bro I totally forgot to put it in the description lol www.ebay.com/itm/194274115812?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Wcxk4pxEQIe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=WU8nDobjRKq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Looks really good men
Not the best catch can, not in a long shot. Wait till you have oil residue all over your bay
so what is the best cc oliver?
One that would allow a v3 SC kit which the one you put on doesn’t( cool if that’s your preference and don’t plan on being boosted ). IMO the SoHo 3n1 combo that ties a drip line back into the oil pan, and holds the power steering and coolant reservoir is a really nice one. Only have to check the reservoir every once in a while to see if it’s draining into the drip line or not. 10/10 no problems even when ran on a v3 set up. Sits right next to the wiper fluid.
How the hell that thing work ??? Because I see you connect the pcv to the Oil catch can and connect to the other valve cover , so my question is ? How the hell you take the Crank case pressure out there because you delete the Vacuum line from the plenum to suck the gases from the engine ?? That thing don’t work in all man you Waste your time, now the engine goin to built a lot pressure and no vacuum line to Release depression out the crankcase you never goin to see oil in that Catch can because is no vacuum line to suck the gases 🤣. Remember the driver side head cover is connected to the intake filter that is the clean air entry to the engine and the pcv is connected to the plenum to suck the moister and gases from en engine , so take out the driver connection and put on the plenum vacuum and the drive head cover entry content to the intake filter like the factory
I can tell you’re new to cars, it’s one thing to ask questions and learn but to act like you’re right and act like a dick is another thing lmao. Not to mention your poor grammar and how you managed to edit your comment yet fail to correct your grammar.
The pressure comes from the crankcase, the pressure on the passenger pcv side runs through the passenger pcv side hose, into the catch can then exists from the top of the filter, during this process the pressure exiting from the passenger pcv side is strong enough to push oil through the passenger pcv side hose, which ends up being captured inside the oil catch can, and that’s why it’s called and oil catch can, next: on the driver pcv side the same process applies but you’re stupid so let me carefully explain, the pressure from the driver pcv side runs through the driver pcv side and escapes through the oil catch can air filter or breather filter, sometimes the pressure is strong enough from the driver pcv side to bring oil through the driver pcv side so the pressures exits through the air filter and inside the oil catch can the oil is caught because it has a baffling system where oil gets captured and the pressure can escape through the air filter without bring up oil. You don’t need vacuum to release the pressure, what’s my proof? Oil will get captured inside the oil catch can, which means the pressure itself escapes and doesn’t need vacuum to vent itself. Don’t believe me? There’s a 900+ hp g35 with this same setup and running perfect, you’re making it seem like you’re wrong theory is going to build pressure inside and blow up lmao, pressure is air, air will always find a way to escape, good day tard.
@@THXIIIRTEEN that the problem the engine building pressure from the crankcase , is like Boiling eggs but in this case you boiling the oil engine because you delete en entrance from the engine to Receive fresh air in the crankcases. You can look you self how the vacuum line from the pcv are very important,and trust me that setup are wrong , if you see oil in you catch can is because wast build whit a lot pressure and that pressure you don’t want went you see a lot oil licking you know why, engineers create that for a reason, Replace the old gases from crankcase to new air crankcase .
simple.
definitely don't want a vented can.
for boost applications it’s better I’ll say.