As a self employed multi skilled tradesman this explanation is so much better and easier than I have tried myself I will be using this from now on 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you very much for this. I am always way too hot and I'm stuck in a hotel room for the next three nights and the radiator in my room would not turn off, after taking off the controller for the radiator and then putting it back on again I was able to twist it down and switch off the radiator and now I'll have three nights of comfort in a nice cool room. Thanks again
I must say a big thank you to you Roger, your videos have seen me through many diy central heating jobs in my house and helped me learn along the way. I can see why you’re a teacher, you manage to put information across in a very understandable way and it’s been a big help 👍👍
Cheers, thank you. All the pins on mine are stuck so I haven't been able to turn the valves down in years because once I turn them down, I can't open them back up again. One of the reasons I retrained, now I can sort out my radiators! I've learned to live with it, but it's on the list for my NVQ! 🤣
Some of mine did this when I was replacing all my TRV's, as some had given up the ghost completely so my central heating system wasn't working very well. A bit of WD40 on the valve and giving it a nudge now and then managed to free them off after a day or so, then some silicone grease before I fitted the new TRV's. I figured that the valve pin was sticking at the top of the valve body due to a bit of corrosion, because let's be honest, they don't move much and aren't greased from new. No issues now, funnily enough the new TRV's look the same as the old ones Roger shown in this video, Drayton RT212's 😅
Ha ha I've been DIY plumbing for years and regarded my self quite competent but didn't realise about the bi directional trv and always put them on the flow. On top of that i thought the trv worked on water temp and not air temp so thanks for the re education great video as always your the one stop channel for any task well done.
wish I'd known about this before I diy'd the TRV on one of my rads years ago.. was only after I'd hack-sawed the plastic off (sheer frustration and nothing to lose) before I worked out that if you turn them up full you can get a spanner in there to get them off. On the upside.. I learned something..! 😆
it's still worth just swapping the old head for the new one to see if that fixes it. In my limited experience, it can do. Even when a plumber friend told me the pin was definitely gone I just attached a new TRV head and Bob became my proverbial uncle. Don't ask me how or why. It just works sometimes. Big relief not having to drain down the system.
Thanks for uploading a video like this, got the head off but having some trouble getting the pin to move, which confirms that's most likely what the problem. I love how so many small household issues are just googleable instead of having to call an expensive guy to do it in 5 mins 😅
DIYer here, thank you Roger for this and many other videos. I’m having difficulty understanding that a thermostatic valve can be fitted on the flow or return. With a condensing boiler I believe the objective is to have as much temperature difference as possible between hot water coming into the radiator (flow) and leaving the radiator (return). To do this, I would tighten down the return (lock shield valve) such that the passage of water is restricted, causing hot water to spend more time in the radiator and, in doing so, lose its heat to the room. If what I’m doing is correct, then the thermostatic value should only be fitted on the flow (ingress) pipe as water restriction would otherwise not be possible. Any advice greatly appreciated.
@@SkillBuilder Thank you for the reply and I think I see your point but to which I have a second question. By the way, I can struggle to see the simplest things sometimes and can carry on asking questions like an annoying child so please feel free to ignore, delete as you see fit, regardless, what I learn from skill builder and others is how I proceed so thank you. So now I’m imagining myself as a droplet of hot water having just left the boiler and on my way to the first cold radiator with a thermostatic valve on the return. I first struggle to get past the lock shield, as it’s only open a ¼ of a turn, then once through I have a cold radiator to flow through at a rate restricted by the almost closed lock shield then, once I hit the thermostatic valve, I can pass through with ease (the rad is cold so the valve is open). In this scenario, I can’t see where hot water is pushed into the radiator as fast as possible and kept there for as long as possible. With the valves reversed, it seems like it dribbles in and out at an equal rate. Granted the radiator still gets hot when valves are swapped but is this efficient, I’m I losing enough heat at each rad for the condensing boiler to be efficient? Clearly I’m missing something here because everything I’ve read supports what you are saying but I cant seem to get my head around it. Perhaps it’s my lack of understanding about the operation of the thermostatic valve, it’s pin movement between open and closed, starting position, etc. A whiteboard teaching moment for a future video perhaps? Kind regards, Bob
@@bobbydazzler9547 You’re overthinking it and that’s why you are getting confused. It doesn’t matter where the restriction is the heating water will flow through the radiator at the same rate. (It can’t flow through the radiator quicker if the TRV is on the flow because the lockshield on the return is still restricting the flow of water exiting the radiator)
@@jakes6147 Thank you kindly Jake for replying. I got halfway through my reply to you then the penny dropped. I’m dealing with a pressurised system with equal pressure on both sides of the rad so it’s not possible, as I was asserting, for water to travel in and out at different rates. It’s good to finally understand something that was bugging me for ages so thanks again to you and Roger.
Im glad to see this...I just moved and i have 2 radiaters not being able to turn off...so that flowing noise is 24/7...and making me mental.... thought it was just the new apartment building system...hopefully just the thermostats...thanks
Just wondering... can they make it so renters cannot turn them off fully? When I remive the thermostat and push the pin in or out, it only make a very slight xhange in flow noise
On my living room radiator the thermostatic valve just never worked . Cheap alternative , a plastic cover over the pin can work as an on off of sorts , tight for off loose for on. Had it like that for years and its fine. Its also good for when i have the log burner on but want to take the chill of the rest of the house , i can close off the living room.
Also worth noting some bathroom rads are connected to the hot water system and not central heating system so you won't be able to turn those off either.
@@DazzinB32 I'm colour blind ...well according to them stupid tests I am, but I would say lemon. Mr bisby need to carry a colour chart tbh..and " put a link in the description " 👌😂. That way us pedants can get a nights sleep lol.
The amount of times I got called back because TRVs, " I turn it to number 3, and its not working", I explain it works on air temp not water temp, " oh I thought number 3 was warm, and number 4 a bit warmer", a week later they forgot what you said about air temp, and its " I don't think its working properly", same with programable room stats....once you say there will be a call out charge next time, that use to fix the problem...know what I mean Roger.
I've turned the TRV down to '*' and already taken the radiator off, then watched your excellent video. Can I still remove the cap and turn the valve fully off or do I need to put the rad back on? Cheers
Tks, apologies I may have given you wrong info. I checked the boiler and it was on, but just ticking over as everything was up to temp, or that’s how it seemed to me? As the hw zcv was replaced in May and the problem went away I concluded that was where the problem was. It now seems have happened again about six months later.
My neighbour had a problem with her valve she's on the British gas insurance plan and they contract the work out, the guy messed it up! had to take the pipe off soldier new pipe on don't ask me why and has burnt all the wall with the blowtorch now they got to get it decorated. Is there any issue between Imperial and metric I don't think so changing the whole valve? What he didn't need to do.
I had a poor experience with British Gas. Cancelled the contract before they could butcher my house and found a very decent local company who did a great job.
BG service is awful. It is really sad they used to be good. I did not renew two years ago. Finally gave up. Stayed with them far too long. Way back, they gave such good service when I had a leak prior to going off on honeymoon. They really pulled out the stops. Creating such loyalty that I probably held off cancelling by ten years. Used a local firm . Sadly they have let me down but I am not going to BG , I will use another different local.
@@chapman9230 I don't think it's BG is a problem because she gets good service with them but they keep contracting the workout to some low grade "technicians" they have a handful of experienced guys I feel at BG. They seem to repair the problem afterwards in her case. I don't know I'm not a customer of gas. She's constantly got them round there last year they said she needed a new boiler the contacts danico
Informative as always, cheers. Can you do a video on avoiding/fixing clanking pipes. Tips on sorting out unsecured pipes in a minimally invasive way etc.
Well, not useful here in the land of forced air heating, but interesting. I grew up in Boston in a triple decker apartment building with radiators. Those valves are probably old news, but they would have been a big improvement over the Bakelite knobs and manual adjustment at all times of the day and night. Did I mention the asbestos sleeves on the exposed pipes running from the basement boiler to the upper floors?
Be a good idea to show how to change a radiator valve without need for draining the system ,Using bungs in the loft (open vented system)on the header tank and expansion pipe ,using the vacuum method ,making it a quicker job ,no loss of inhibitor, saving you money on replacing it .I'm not a plumber by trade and I managed this easily without drama ,Sure your followers would appreciate it .compare it to closed system
Its a pain when people think if they turn the valve up, the room gets hotter quicker, even if you tell them it only controls the max final temperature of the room.
Not all rad valves are bi? Outrageous! Signed: Loretta Sheffield. See: Monty Python. Life of Brian. Apparently, all comments help the channel. Even the daft ones.
@@SkillBuilder I sub to two trans women's channels. One fully off wit meat and 2 veg, another, intacto. Wont name drop. They are very critical of the madness that is identity, intersectional, politics. Currently reading Andrew Doyle's "The New Puritans".
Nice video Roger, thanks. You mentioned draining the system. I had it in my head that operation had to be performed by a qualified individual (not sure why I thought that!), but you suggest in the video that it would be possible for me as a DIYer to do it (within the law). Is that correct?
@@robertallardice8119 yes. I had it in my head that they applied to the complete system, inclusive of the radiators, but it appears my head was talking out of its arse!
Roger have seen my question to you, on a previous video, where I asked about lowering the temp of your boiler flow, in particular its effect on non-condensing boilers?
Good morning! I have been watching nearly all your videos and they are so helpful! I have question as you seems very clever and bright with ideas. My garden shed door has gaps between door planks and rain coming in. Can you recommend with what could I fill in those gaps,please! Planks are treated and summer time gaps are a bit bigger. Thank you so much if you will be so kind to reply to me.
I hate that about shed doors, not sure why they make external doors in such a manner, why aren't the boards horizontal rather than horizontal. The rain runs down the board and gets through the lap to inside. There should be a cheap composite shed door by now with the wood pattern on it.
Very interesting video as always 😊 we have some air trapped in one of our radiator and the bleeding valve is worn off. I was wondering if there was any trick for getting the air out. Is there a way to get the air moving to another radiator which has a functional bleeding valve?
You need to turn the radiator off at both ends and remove the small brass pin with a small drill. Modern radiators have the air cock in a nut so you can undo the whole nut but old ones can be more difficult.
Hi Roger, very helpful video... I've had new rads with TRVs fitted recently. Most of them functioning as expected however I have one directly opposite a stove in the living room. Despite the room being 19 or 20c due to the stove, the radiator still gets very hot when I switch on the heating. I've tried putting it from 3 to 2 and then to 1 but it still gets full flow of hot water in an already warm room. As I say, all new rads, pipes and TRVs. Any ideas?
"15 Celsius" Congratulations, Roger! You're one of the few people to say this correctly - not "15 degrees Celsius" as so many weathermen and a fair number of science presenters say!
such great videos, I wish I could find one that explains why my pump stays on long after h/hw is off and the apparently faulty hw zone valve was replaced a few months ago
Tks for the reply, yes, that’s what I thought, but I’m talking way beyond that, so the only way to stop the pump it is to switch everything off at mains. (All in the airing cupboard) I’ve been watching a few more videos and could it be the micro switch inside the zone valve that sticks.@@SkillBuilder
If it were the micro switch relay in the motorised valve it would fire up the boiler. If the boiler is off and the pump is still running it is because the printed circuit board is telling it to. I am not certain about this because it could be wired incorrectly so it needs a little more investigation. If you send pictures to www.skill-builder.uk/ask I might spot something but I will need to see inside the wiring centre
But if the radiator is trickling the hot water in, then it slowly mixes with the cold water there, essentially making the radiator lukewarm if its on a lower number like 2-3? So in theory lower number does make radiator lukewarm?
O.K it probably takes 2 minutes for all the water in the radiator to flow through and be replaced by new water which comes in slower and therefore gives up more of its heat as it passes through. You may well be right but I try not to keep it practical and concentrate on what the householder needs to know rather than going down rabbit holes but I like
Can be tough trying to explain to a customer how to use trv’s correctly.they will keep fiddling.i always try and tell them to walk into a room and feel the temp of the room not the radiator.set it to what seems right then leave it alone.still cant get my wife to do ti though
If the system has TRVs on all the radiators then an automatic bypass valve Must be fitted to the system even with Motorised valves controlled systems we always fit one on the system
Until you get around to replacing the thermostatic valve, try putting a coin between the thermostatic valve and the pin then when you close the valve it pushes the pin down properly.
They are my best feature. I have donated my body to medical research on the condition that I am dead. I also ticked the box to allow them to make videos so I might even have a spot on TH-cam after I am dead.
my radiator does not turn off. even i change the valve also. and in my basement i dont know how to reduce the heat. am living in german and everything is written in german language. at night my room is like burning . i open all windows and turn on 2 fans to reduce the heat otherwise i turn off the heat in basement. i dont know whats the problem.
I have boiler thermostat on 21 degree in my kitchen and all radiators have Thermostatic Radiator Valve on 19 degree, does that mean that my oil boiler will burn oil non stop? to reach 21 degree but Thermostatic Radiator Valve wont let room reach above 19 degree? Thermostatic Radiator Valve have number 1-6 how to know what number represent what degree?
The boiler thermostat will cut the boiler off when the return temperature is reached. You have it set up right so don't worry. No TRV manufacturer will give you a temperature reading for a setting. The sensors vary and you just have to find what suits you. The air rushing past the bottom of your radiator is going to be cooler than the air at the ceiling.
These taps are a waste of time and money. I bought a box of these from screwfix put them on and waited to cool down before adjusting the regulator side. Ok it was set then the following day I turned it off then back on in the night time to see how good my radiator is. The thing is it was cold. Tap on full the rest of the heating was hot but this one rad was cold. I checked the tap and regulator. Both seemed ok. Opened and closed tap nothing. I took the tap off and put an elbow in its place and used the regulator as the tap set it and radiator works perfectly fine . Looked at the tap and turned it both directions and noticed that the centre was not moving tho the tap was screwed back on. These taps are a waste of time. Don’t buy these taps. Stick to the old ones that’s best. These taps that you can twist on with a thread are no good. Very nasty. I hope this helps.
The only way thermastic valves have any part to play is if you have your heating on 24/7.If you dont just use lockshield valves and balance which radiators you want more heat from.Thermastatic valves are a pain in the arse and always will be.Rant over.If your heating is on a timer and a room stat thermastatic valves do bog all.Nothing ....Absolutley nothing.Ok now rant over.
Years back when Servowarm fitted boiler to rad central heating the guy obviously lost sight of which way the flow was running. I had awful hammer from two valves which he came back to fix. He fixed it by just turning the affected trv's through 90 degrees. Fixed the problem but just did not look right.
As a self employed multi skilled tradesman this explanation is so much better and easier than I have tried myself I will be using this from now on 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you very much for this. I am always way too hot and I'm stuck in a hotel room for the next three nights and the radiator in my room would not turn off, after taking off the controller for the radiator and then putting it back on again I was able to twist it down and switch off the radiator and now I'll have three nights of comfort in a nice cool room. Thanks again
I must say a big thank you to you Roger, your videos have seen me through many diy central heating jobs in my house and helped me learn along the way. I can see why you’re a teacher, you manage to put information across in a very understandable way and it’s been a big help 👍👍
Glad to help
Cheers, thank you.
All the pins on mine are stuck so I haven't been able to turn the valves down in years because once I turn them down, I can't open them back up again.
One of the reasons I retrained, now I can sort out my radiators!
I've learned to live with it, but it's on the list for my NVQ!
🤣
Some of mine did this when I was replacing all my TRV's, as some had given up the ghost completely so my central heating system wasn't working very well.
A bit of WD40 on the valve and giving it a nudge now and then managed to free them off after a day or so, then some silicone grease before I fitted the new TRV's.
I figured that the valve pin was sticking at the top of the valve body due to a bit of corrosion, because let's be honest, they don't move much and aren't greased from new.
No issues now, funnily enough the new TRV's look the same as the old ones Roger shown in this video, Drayton RT212's 😅
@@mazdamaniac4643
Good idea.
I'll give it a try.
Thanks!
Ha ha I've been DIY plumbing for years and regarded my self quite competent but didn't realise about the bi directional trv and always put them on the flow. On top of that i thought the trv worked on water temp and not air temp so thanks for the re education great video as always your the one stop channel for any task well done.
Absolutely fantastic video. You have a gift for teaching.
wish I'd known about this before I diy'd the TRV on one of my rads years ago.. was only after I'd hack-sawed the plastic off (sheer frustration and nothing to lose) before I worked out that if you turn them up full you can get a spanner in there to get them off. On the upside.. I learned something..! 😆
I was talking to a recently qualified plumber this week. He watches your videos too. tips and tricks!
Roger knows his stuff about most things in the building trade. I would like him to be my dad but I’m older than Him.
I could still be your Dad (step) if I married your Mum.
@@SkillBuilder that’s interesting 🤔 I’ve contacted my mum and she’s up for it as she needs a new shower.
@@gdfggggg
🤣🤣🤣
Great video Roger. Things explained in simple terms for DIYers like me.
it's still worth just swapping the old head for the new one to see if that fixes it. In my limited experience, it can do. Even when a plumber friend told me the pin was definitely gone I just attached a new TRV head and Bob became my proverbial uncle. Don't ask me how or why. It just works sometimes. Big relief not having to drain down the system.
Same here, radiator balancing now successful thanks to your podcast.
Great to hear!
Totally agree, that podcast was worth it's weight in gold. I had no idea that balancing my radiators would make such a positive difference.
Thanks for uploading a video like this, got the head off but having some trouble getting the pin to move, which confirms that's most likely what the problem. I love how so many small household issues are just googleable instead of having to call an expensive guy to do it in 5 mins 😅
DIYer here, thank you Roger for this and many other videos. I’m having difficulty understanding that a thermostatic valve can be fitted on the flow or return. With a condensing boiler I believe the objective is to have as much temperature difference as possible between hot water coming into the radiator (flow) and leaving the radiator (return). To do this, I would tighten down the return (lock shield valve) such that the passage of water is restricted, causing hot water to spend more time in the radiator and, in doing so, lose its heat to the room. If what I’m doing is correct, then the thermostatic value should only be fitted on the flow (ingress) pipe as water restriction would otherwise not be possible. Any advice greatly appreciated.
The water restriction is the same on the outlet. If you control the flow through the radiator it doesn't matter which end
@@SkillBuilder Thank you for the reply and I think I see your point but to which I have a second question. By the way, I can struggle to see the simplest things sometimes and can carry on asking questions like an annoying child so please feel free to ignore, delete as you see fit, regardless, what I learn from skill builder and others is how I proceed so thank you.
So now I’m imagining myself as a droplet of hot water having just left the boiler and on my way to the first cold radiator with a thermostatic valve on the return. I first struggle to get past the lock shield, as it’s only open a ¼ of a turn, then once through I have a cold radiator to flow through at a rate restricted by the almost closed lock shield then, once I hit the thermostatic valve, I can pass through with ease (the rad is cold so the valve is open). In this scenario, I can’t see where hot water is pushed into the radiator as fast as possible and kept there for as long as possible. With the valves reversed, it seems like it dribbles in and out at an equal rate. Granted the radiator still gets hot when valves are swapped but is this efficient, I’m I losing enough heat at each rad for the condensing boiler to be efficient?
Clearly I’m missing something here because everything I’ve read supports what you are saying but I cant seem to get my head around it. Perhaps it’s my lack of understanding about the operation of the thermostatic valve, it’s pin movement between open and closed, starting position, etc. A whiteboard teaching moment for a future video perhaps?
Kind regards,
Bob
@@bobbydazzler9547 You’re overthinking it and that’s why you are getting confused.
It doesn’t matter where the restriction is the heating water will flow through the radiator at the same rate. (It can’t flow through the radiator quicker if the TRV is on the flow because the lockshield on the return is still restricting the flow of water exiting the radiator)
@@jakes6147 Thank you kindly Jake for replying. I got halfway through my reply to you then the penny dropped. I’m dealing with a pressurised system with equal pressure on both sides of the rad so it’s not possible, as I was asserting, for water to travel in and out at different rates. It’s good to finally understand something that was bugging me for ages so thanks again to you and Roger.
Im glad to see this...I just moved and i have 2 radiaters not being able to turn off...so that flowing noise is 24/7...and making me mental.... thought it was just the new apartment building system...hopefully just the thermostats...thanks
Just wondering... can they make it so renters cannot turn them off fully? When I remive the thermostat and push the pin in or out, it only make a very slight xhange in flow noise
On my living room radiator the thermostatic valve just never worked . Cheap alternative , a plastic cover over the pin can work as an on off of sorts , tight for off loose for on. Had it like that for years and its fine. Its also good for when i have the log burner on but want to take the chill of the rest of the house , i can close off the living room.
Thanks Roger, always learning from you. I'm a keen home diy'er.
Also worth noting some bathroom rads are connected to the hot water system and not central heating system so you won't be able to turn those off either.
I like the colour of the walls, wonder what it is.
🤔I think it’s called 10b15 😂Otherwise known as magnolia in the trade 🤣🤣
elephant piss..
@@DazzinB32 I'm colour blind ...well according to them stupid tests I am, but I would say lemon. Mr bisby need to carry a colour chart tbh..and " put a link in the description " 👌😂. That way us pedants can get a nights sleep lol.
@@DazzinB32
Not Magnolia, it's way too yellow.
It's a nice colour actually.
@@42RHD that could be very true 🤗 it’s just about the lighting 👍🏼
Thanks for this info. Had no idea how of the mechanics involved.
The amount of times I got called back because TRVs, " I turn it to number 3, and its not working", I explain it works on air temp not water temp, " oh I thought number 3 was warm, and number 4 a bit warmer", a week later they forgot what you said about air temp, and its " I don't think its working properly", same with programable room stats....once you say there will be a call out charge next time, that use to fix the problem...know what I mean Roger.
I've turned the TRV down to '*' and already taken the radiator off, then watched your excellent video. Can I still remove the cap and turn the valve fully off or do I need to put the rad back on? Cheers
Hi, thank you very much for the tutorial, just wondering maybe you also have one, if the pin is not pushing down? thanks
Just keep tapping it fast. The pin is down all the way and once the valve is unseated the pin will come up. Don't give up.
Tks, apologies I may have given you wrong info. I checked the boiler and it was on, but just ticking over as everything was up to temp, or that’s how it seemed to me? As the hw zcv was replaced in May and the problem went away I concluded that was where the problem was. It now seems have happened again about six months later.
My neighbour had a problem with her valve she's on the British gas insurance plan and they contract the work out, the guy messed it up! had to take the pipe off soldier new pipe on don't ask me why and has burnt all the wall with the blowtorch now they got to get it decorated.
Is there any issue between Imperial and metric I don't think so changing the whole valve? What he didn't need to do.
I had a poor experience with British Gas.
Cancelled the contract before they could butcher my house and found a very decent local company who did a great job.
BG service is awful. It is really sad they used to be good. I did not renew two years ago. Finally gave up. Stayed with them far too long. Way back, they gave such good service when I had a leak prior to going off on honeymoon. They really pulled out the stops. Creating such loyalty that I probably held off cancelling by ten years. Used a local firm . Sadly they have let me down but I am not going to BG , I will use another different local.
@@chapman9230 I don't think it's BG is a problem because she gets good service with them but they keep contracting the workout to some low grade "technicians" they have a handful of experienced guys I feel at BG. They seem to repair the problem afterwards in her case. I don't know I'm not a customer of gas. She's constantly got them round there last year they said she needed a new boiler the contacts danico
Informative as always, cheers. Can you do a video on avoiding/fixing clanking pipes. Tips on sorting out unsecured pipes in a minimally invasive way etc.
If you have got an old valiant trv that shuts itself off when you unscrew the pin part to replace it you don't need to drain the heating
Well, not useful here in the land of forced air heating, but interesting. I grew up in Boston in a triple decker apartment building with radiators. Those valves are probably old news, but they would have been a big improvement over the Bakelite knobs and manual adjustment at all times of the day and night. Did I mention the asbestos sleeves on the exposed pipes running from the basement boiler to the upper floors?
Be a good idea to show how to change a radiator valve without need for draining the system ,Using bungs in the loft (open vented system)on the header tank and expansion pipe ,using the vacuum method ,making it a quicker job ,no loss of inhibitor, saving you money on replacing it .I'm not a plumber by trade and I managed this easily without drama ,Sure your followers would appreciate it .compare it to closed system
Great suggestion!
Most new TRVs are multi directional the older Danfloss TRVs were directional and fitted to the return
Its a pain when people think if they turn the valve up, the room gets hotter quicker, even if you tell them it only controls the max final temperature of the room.
th-cam.com/video/P4_6e5IaQXM/w-d-xo.html
Not all rad valves are bi? Outrageous!
Signed: Loretta Sheffield.
See: Monty Python. Life of Brian.
Apparently, all comments help the channel. Even the daft ones.
If a rad valve says that it self-identifies as bi then it is bi regradless of the arrow showing it was born as a single direction valve.
@@SkillBuilder I sub to two trans women's channels. One fully off wit meat and 2 veg, another, intacto. Wont name drop. They are very critical of the madness that is identity, intersectional, politics. Currently reading Andrew Doyle's "The New Puritans".
Wow, it's just like a sauter solenoid valve, but manual. Nice to know.
Nice video Roger, thanks. You mentioned draining the system. I had it in my head that operation had to be performed by a qualified individual (not sure why I thought that!), but you suggest in the video that it would be possible for me as a DIYer to do it (within the law). Is that correct?
Your thinking of the Gas Regulations.
@@robertallardice8119 yes. I had it in my head that they applied to the complete system, inclusive of the radiators, but it appears my head was talking out of its arse!
Yes it is legal to drain and work on your heating
I've had a couple of TRV's leak causing the combi system to loose pressure. The leak comes from around the pin on the valve which
Here is a dumb question: on the other side is a "tap", I am told that must never be fully open - is that true?
Wax TRV, terrible, pay a bit more for a decent one with liquid....
The council only pay for wax TRVs. My mate works for the council
Thanks for the vid. 35 years old and just learnt how to do this properly😂
Thank you so much for the help!
so if my trv is not turning off or down, can i just replace the top part, which from what you said, may not be pushing the pin down properly?
Thanks Roger. Was helpful
Roger have seen my question to you, on a previous video, where I asked about lowering the temp of your boiler flow, in particular its effect on non-condensing boilers?
Great video. I'll sort mine out....hopefully👍
Good morning! I have been watching nearly all your videos and they are so helpful! I have question as you seems very clever and bright with ideas. My garden shed door has gaps between door planks and rain coming in. Can you recommend with what could I fill in those gaps,please! Planks are treated and summer time gaps are a bit bigger. Thank you so much if you will be so kind to reply to me.
I hate that about shed doors, not sure why they make external doors in such a manner, why aren't the boards horizontal rather than horizontal. The rain runs down the board and gets through the lap to inside.
There should be a cheap composite shed door by now with the wood pattern on it.
Very interesting video as always 😊 we have some air trapped in one of our radiator and the bleeding valve is worn off. I was wondering if there was any trick for getting the air out. Is there a way to get the air moving to another radiator which has a functional bleeding valve?
You need to turn the radiator off at both ends and remove the small brass pin with a small drill. Modern radiators have the air cock in a nut so you can undo the whole nut but old ones can be more difficult.
@@SkillBuilder thanks for the help 👍
Hi Roger, very helpful video...
I've had new rads with TRVs fitted recently. Most of them functioning as expected however I have one directly opposite a stove in the living room. Despite the room being 19 or 20c due to the stove, the radiator still gets very hot when I switch on the heating. I've tried putting it from 3 to 2 and then to 1 but it still gets full flow of hot water in an already warm room.
As I say, all new rads, pipes and TRVs. Any ideas?
Could be a broken TRV head. Try swapping the head from another rad.
"15 Celsius" Congratulations, Roger! You're one of the few people to say this correctly - not "15 degrees Celsius" as so many weathermen and a fair number of science presenters say!
it took a while. All gthos nasty emails badgering me
such great videos, I wish I could find one that explains why my pump stays on long after h/hw is off and the apparently faulty hw zone valve was replaced a few months ago
Pump over-run is built into the boiler to clear heat from the heat exchanger.
Tks for the reply, yes, that’s what I thought, but I’m talking way beyond that, so the only way to stop the pump it is to switch everything off at mains. (All in the airing cupboard) I’ve been watching a few more videos and could it be the micro switch inside the zone valve that sticks.@@SkillBuilder
If it were the micro switch relay in the motorised valve it would fire up the boiler. If the boiler is off and the pump is still running it is because the printed circuit board is telling it to. I am not certain about this because it could be wired incorrectly so it needs a little more investigation.
If you send pictures to www.skill-builder.uk/ask I might spot something but I will need to see inside the wiring centre
But if the radiator is trickling the hot water in, then it slowly mixes with the cold water there, essentially making the radiator lukewarm if its on a lower number like 2-3? So in theory lower number does make radiator lukewarm?
O.K it probably takes 2 minutes for all the water in the radiator to flow through and be replaced by new water which comes in slower and therefore gives up more of its heat as it passes through. You may well be right but I try not to keep it practical and concentrate on what the householder needs to know rather than going down rabbit holes but I like
Can be tough trying to explain to a customer how to use trv’s correctly.they will keep fiddling.i always try and tell them to walk into a room and feel the temp of the room not the radiator.set it to what seems right then leave it alone.still cant get my wife to do ti though
I put silicone grease on our pins or WD 40 to free them off
It is not the pin. it is the seating on the valve that gets stuck.
I keep getting told that one of my radiators should not have a valve like this added. Why would this be?
You need to keep one radiator always open so the pump is not pushing on a closed circuit. It is not alway the case but it is never a bad idea
If the system has TRVs on all the radiators then an automatic bypass valve Must be fitted to the system even with Motorised valves controlled systems we always fit one on the system
Until you get around to replacing the thermostatic valve, try putting a coin between the thermostatic valve and the pin then when you close the valve it pushes the pin down properly.
Hi Robert
That was going to be out next video in the series. I have used all kinds of things to do that but these heads were shot to bits
Blinking eck your knees still work
They are my best feature. I have donated my body to medical research on the condition that I am dead. I also ticked the box to allow them to make videos so I might even have a spot on TH-cam after I am dead.
my radiator does not turn off. even i change the valve also. and in my basement i dont know how to reduce the heat. am living in german and everything is written in german language. at night my room is like burning . i open all windows and turn on 2 fans to reduce the heat otherwise i turn off the heat in basement. i dont know whats the problem.
Say your room is warm - like 15 degrees centigrade. Huh?
I have boiler thermostat on 21 degree in my kitchen and all radiators have Thermostatic Radiator Valve on 19 degree, does that mean that my oil boiler will burn oil non stop? to reach 21 degree but Thermostatic Radiator Valve wont let room reach above 19 degree?
Thermostatic Radiator Valve have number 1-6 how to know what number represent what degree?
The boiler thermostat will cut the boiler off when the return temperature is reached. You have it set up right so don't worry. No TRV manufacturer will give you a temperature reading for a setting. The sensors vary and you just have to find what suits you. The air rushing past the bottom of your radiator is going to be cooler than the air at the ceiling.
Nice rod
Thanks
great tips cheers
Good advice: don't flood your house.
These taps are a waste of time and money. I bought a box of these from screwfix put them on and waited to cool down before adjusting the regulator side. Ok it was set then the following day I turned it off then back on in the night time to see how good my radiator is. The thing is it was cold. Tap on full the rest of the heating was hot but this one rad was cold. I checked the tap and regulator. Both seemed ok. Opened and closed tap nothing. I took the tap off and put an elbow in its place and used the regulator as the tap set it and radiator works perfectly fine . Looked at the tap and turned it both directions and noticed that the centre was not moving tho the tap was screwed back on. These taps are a waste of time. Don’t buy these taps. Stick to the old ones that’s best. These taps that you can twist on with a thread are no good. Very nasty. I hope this helps.
My mate works for the council.
Replace it whit a trv.
It is a TRV
Guy look and sound like Bradley walsh
I wish You worked local to Me
👍👍👍.
Instructions unclear. Flooded my wifes boyfriends house.
😂😂😂
Did the same with my wifes gf. Theh got both sk wet
The only way thermastic valves have any part to play is if you have your heating on 24/7.If you dont just use lockshield valves and balance which radiators you want more heat from.Thermastatic valves are a pain in the arse and always will be.Rant over.If your heating is on a timer and a room stat thermastatic valves do bog all.Nothing ....Absolutley nothing.Ok now rant over.
Years back when Servowarm fitted boiler to rad central heating the guy obviously lost sight of which way the flow was running. I had awful hammer from two valves which he came back to fix. He fixed it by just turning the affected trv's through 90 degrees. Fixed the problem but just did not look right.
Great explanation Rog .
Congratulations on half a million subscribers too ! 🤩👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽🧱👍🏽
Thanks a million! or should that be half?