Fantastic tutorial. Got two quotes from different plumbers, one extortionate at £275 & the other £200. Followed this guide and got the job done in 30 mins at a cost of £15 for the part. Can't rate this guy highly enough.
Hi mate , I’m currently putting myself through night school doing level 2 plumbing , I’m 46 years old and decided to have a complete career change , I understand college has to do it a certain way but I get frustrated things don’t sink in and feel I’m not learning but just want to thank you for your videos as you explain step by step as I can see you doing it 👍
Followed this video to change faulty TRV , managed to do it successfully. One thing ..I bought the bungs and the expansion vent pipe I couldn't get my bung in as pipe was tight in the corner of tank and the tank wall was pushing the bung to the side , I'd to give up in using the bung and used a wine bottle stopper ( thing u put in the bottle once opened) it worked a absolute treat , I knew it had worked by checking the pressure thru the bleed screw I accept no responsibility if u have to follow my way of doing it but thought I'd pass on my experience VERY clear NO nonsense video , explanation second to none Cheers mate
Thank you so much for making this video. Made an otherwise daunting looking job entirely doable for me and the panic I was in. Discovered a pool of water under the a bedroom based angled TRV and further noticed water damage suggesting it had been stealthily leaking for a while before it had advanced enough to make a puddle. Watched this video, went to Toolstation and sorted within two to three hours. My wife was well impressed so might be able to get away with being a bit cheap this valentines day.
Having had several quotes for hundreds of pounds to replace a couple of leaking TRV's I watched your video and ordered the bungs & valves. It took a while to pluck up the courage to do the job but yesterday I nervously took the plunge and all went well. Job done and for a fraction of the cost. Thanks very much for the video and information.
Great video, just one bit of advice. The heating system has hopefully been balanced by the installation engineer as part of the system commissioning. When closing each lock-shield valve on the system before exchanging the wheel-head control valve to a thermostatic valve, count the number of turns required to close each lock-shield valve and make a note of the number of turns. This way you can reopen each lock-shield valve to the original position, which will ensure that the system balancing is not altered, i.e. if this is not done you will find that the nearest radiators in a bungalow, or the upstairs radiators in a house will get hot quickly, but it will take a long time for the nearest or downstairs radiators to become hot, they will have sluggish circulation and may only get warm instead of hot when it is very cold outside.
Had an old (35yrs ish) Drayton TRV, which had stuck closed, tried WD40, pushing etc etc. Decided to change the valve, had a look on TH-cam for a way of doing without draining the system. Watched this video and thought "it can't be that simple" believe me IT WAS. Great explanation, can't thank the guy enough, for putting this video out.
Great video, changing radiator has always filled me with fear. But from following this video and your advice I overcame my fear and successfully changed out my radiators with out issue. Thanks for taking the time to make and share this.
Mate your teaching is second to none. Really easy to understand and you don't go on to different subjects showing all other crap other people do with DIY videos. Best DIY videos on TH-cam brother
Excellent video, best on U-tube for replacing a radiator valve. The TVR valve started to leak on Christmas Eve and I was apprehensive of changing the valve especially as over the Christmas Holidays plumbers either do not want to come out, or charge you a fortune on call out charges. As a 74 year old pensioner, with aid of this video, I was able to successfully replace the the valve myself.
i just fixed 2 of my radiators that have not worked for years! The TRV pins were stuck in both of them. A few gentle taps and gently tugging on the pin (that was all the way in) popped it out and within 2 minutes the radiators were hot. 1 very happy subscriber.
And also lockshield's are not all the same some a slight turn will open them other multiple turns open then which allow you to adjust the flow. So better to balance the rads correctly when you have finished changing the valve. Another tip is don't buy cheap locksheilds or TRV,'s
Complete beginner with anything to do with plumbing. This video was clear, very well explained and incredibly helpful. I personally had a bit of difficulty removing the old TRV as the the pipe was very stiff and didn’t have much wiggle room, got it off eventually after being brave enough to push the pipe slightly. Strongly recommend anyone who has the same problem as me to be extra careful if you need to do this.
Great video , thank you so much.Managed to change a leaking TRV valve today as a result of watching this which I never would have thought possible.The only snag I hit was not being able to get the water to stop despite closing the valves and trying to bleed off the radiator.In the end I just went for it , telling myself it's only water.Somehow managed to get it on first time and thanks to many towels managed to dry everywhere up afterwards.Heating back up and running and no leaks.Happy days.😁
Thank you, two TRV's at my mother-in-law's place have been stuck open for years wasting ££ of oil heating, with your expert video I have changed them and bled all rads, thank you!
A great video, thank you. Like other commenters, I really appreciate the straightforward style, that you stay on your topic, and the lack of intrusive back ground music.
Huge thank you for this. For over 2 years ive had honeywell evohome stats wedged onto the old Sanus non standard size valve head threads as i didnt have the confidence to change the valves over. Being a small job for a plumber i couldnt get one interested to do it. After watching this, I took the risk and in half a day. Changed 8 valves over and now have a fully functional system. Thanks again.
Good video. Anyone doing this themselves, DO cover the carpet well. Heating systems can contain some really rusty or even black sludgy water. It will ruin a carpet if it get on there. Only thing I would have done slightly differently, especially with microbore rad tails is crack the compression connection to the copper first while the valve is still held firm by the radiator. If that puppy was to suddenly move it while trying to loosen it, it would be so easy to damage the pipework. I know, I have had grips lets go while holding a valve and using an adjustable on a nut. It can ruin your day. As others have commented, I'd count the turns of the locksheild valve as you close it as it's adjusted to balance the system. That one didn't look fully open going by the number of turns to close it off. The float arm on the ball valve was bent a lot and the water level was low. Add to that the level of corrosion, I wonder if the system is prone to pumping over due to a poorly placed expansion pipe in relation to the pump. The low water level could also mean the system draws a small amount of air in as the pump comes on, another cause of corrosion as you introduce fresh air into the system each time.
It actually works. Bought 2 bungs stuck them up in my tank, followed the video instructions and bobs your uncle. The only issue was the original olive was knackered so to cut it off my micro bore pipe. Other then that didn't need to drain the system. Amazing.
As soon as you went into the loft where the spiders live, your video convinced me to pay someone to fit the four valves. So thank you for that clarity.
A good video, easy to follow. Two points I would add. Be aware that on occasions you can get different threads on valves and it is wise to check compatibility, before getting part way through and going "Ooops!". Second point.... I'd strongly suggest engaging the thread on the new valve body onto the radiator before tightening the inlet pipe nut.... it avoids finding there is slight mis-alignment on the second thread and having to re-align the first......
Excellent video, highly recommend. Easy to follow instructions, especially for a novice. Failed leaking TRV on a Saturday night, replaced with new one Sunday morning thanks to this video. Prevented an emergency call out fee, thanks.
Clear, easy to follow video. I do a fair amount of plumbing in our house, but have yet to tackle replacing these TRV *without* draining the system as you say. Didn't catch your name, but thanks all the same !
Finally found this video - a great how-to that should help me get over my fear of flooding our living room whilst I try and get the new valve on! Thank you!
Rarely leave comments. Seen many radiator vids. Yours are best so far as they are so clearly explained, fully detailed and concise. Finally got the explanations that answered my unresolved questions.
Got to say that's one of the best tutorial videos I have seen on TH-cam - very clear. I might have tied up the arm on the header tank valve in case there was a major leak and many TRV's fail because the little pin sticks - might be worth showing this and how to check/free them so you don't need to do a full replacement.
Excellent commentary, great to see you support the valve when tightening the nut. One addition I would say is don't push the valve fully on to the radiator, as, if it bottoms when you tighten the nut and compress the olive it can't move into the valve slightly . Bottom it first,then pull back 2 to 3 mm .This is true for all compression fitting. No PTFE and no Boss White. Thanks again for your excellent video, one of the best. John
If you already have a thermostatic valve , no need to replace the whole unit. just change the thermostat on the original fitting. just make sure you buy a like for like thermostat.
After 24 hours of trying to fit a new radiator and then getting leaks galore once re-pressurising the system your video is the best out of dozens I've watched and allowed me to do a great install. The two things that saved me - not to use tape where there is an olive and to wind the tape around 10-12 times where it is needed. I was just doing it once or twice. Now I'm a happy bunny!
Very simple and easy instructions. Shows how easy it can be to do yourself and save a fortune by not involving heating engineers. Definitely worth considering.
@@johncoakley9618 plumbers should make more effort to work and not overcharge then. That would result in no people viewing, I stead there are more views whilst plumbers grumble.
Thanks for this video. I was dreading having to shell out probably a 3 figure sum this close to Christmas, to replace a seized valve. All done at a cost of £15 for the part in less than an hour! Very good and clear step by step instructions.
The rubber bungs are a modern take on this operation. Years ago we used to use the vegetable method. Sounds absurd but a carrot an half a potato were the items of choice. The carrot was paired down to a taper and this was used to bung up the tank outlet, the cut face of the spud was used to block off the expansion pipe. Worked every time....you just needed to be careful not to snap the carrot or spud off when removing them.
Just something extra to add - If you have access to a wet/ dry vacuum cleaner have it running to suck up water as it appears around the valve and air bleed.
Great video. With a header tank in that dirty state, I would be advising the client of a pressure flush, far too much gunk in the system! Put an additive in as well. Stay safe!
@@1longholiday lol. 'i'm going to spend half a day pumping water around your system, that pumps water around your system. i might show you some discoloured water as well to justify the massive price i charge to pump water around'
Thank you ! This video helped me so much. The wife wanted a new radiator and 2 new brass valves. I thought I might lose the vacuum if I changed them both at the same time, which I was planning on doing due to pipework not having much movement. Luckily adding one onto the radiator and leaving the other on the pipework did the trick. So happy I found your video.
Nice, clear video - Thanks!! So for a pressurised system, do you just reduce the pressure in the one radiator - then re-pressurise the system, bleeding each radiator on the system?
Thanks for the video , I have needed to change a TRV for quite awhile but was not sure how to do it without draining the system. After watching the video I decided to have a go. following your instructions for a sealed system it took me about 20mins to complete. Thank you
Great video , always interested in how other professionals work . Your guide is really easy to follow . If it had been a combi system , I would have taken the opportunity to have drained the rad and filled it with inhibitor . Will be watching more of your videos now .
Excellent. Many thanks. First time I have heard of the tank bungs and now I can change my rad with confidence and not having to drain down. Much appreciated.
Brilliant video which I followed exactly according to your instructions and I now have a shiny new TRV and managed to avoid any leaks. Also, no need for the Fernox or PTFE tape when fitting the new TRV! I had a little trouble understanding you when you mentioned the 'tank bungs', so thought I would mention them here. I bought a pair from Amazon for £13.99 (Heatlab brand) - expensive for what they are, but much cheaper than calling a plumber! Many thanks.
Many thanks for the video. Used this to swap two TRV valves that were incompatible with my Wiser system. First time I had swapped without a full drain down. Just pulled the vacuum by bleeding both rads until no more fluid ran - then took the leap of faith undoing the valves 😂😂 Certainly speeded things up… 15 minutes for the two rads and no loss of of a system full of new inhibitor.
Great video, thanks. I just did it myself and my radiator is working again. One thing I'll add for those attempting is that when you take off the old fitting a jet of water may burst from the pipe, be prepared for that. Have a towel hanging behind to protect the wall and make sure you're swift with popping the new fitting on (with decorators cap fully screwed on).
I’d recommend counting the number of turns on the lock shield valve and return it to the same position as the system should be balanced. This done to allow all radiators an equal share of water when the heating comes on otherwise the nearer radiators to the boiler heat up first.
Can you do an edited version of this for a non gravity system? I found it confusing although I was very impressed by the quality and laughed when I thought about the type of DIY videos we had to put up with a few years ago. Thumbs up.
Thank you very very much for the information.. just one thing.. can I just change the top value only? That is not replacing the metal piping.. if so, are the top value all standard size?..Thank you.
Thank you very very much for the information.. just one thing.. can I just change the top value only? That is not replacing the metal piping.. if so, are the top value all standard size?..Thank you.
@@dw1hkdavidtkwongI would have thought they come as a matching pair, but you could try. You’d have to make sure it’s the same type of valve for the TRV. Mine do not screw on to the body like in this video, so these wouldn’t fit my valve for instance.
Thank you so much for making this video...Excellent info' and explanations for a job many people would not want to do themselves. Saving the cost of a plumber callout. Thank you...👍
I watched the video which was very clear except I have watched a similar video changing a valve on a combi system where the guy when pulling off the old valve had to put his thumb over the pipe to stop water under pressure leaving the pipe. Then manipulate the new valve quickly on causing a loss of water. In your video you say a pressurised system valve change was the same as a gravity system without the need for the bungs . I am slightly confused, why did the other guy have water leakage under pressure
If you bleed the system pressure down, which he did do - using the screwdriver, first you are then reducing the pressure in the system before you go near the valves ..
But he didn't drain the entire system, so isn't there still pressure behind the valve in the copper pipe, so that when you take the button nut off water will come out quite fast?
Excellent video, I've done this in the past but it was just the reminder I needed about the order of things. Two things not to forget: i) Tie up the header tank ball valve, if you do lose vacuum the last thing you want is it being topped up from above. ii) Don't forget to bleed the rads (all of them) when you are done and after a week of use.
Just a thought if you're replacing an very old valve: the length of copper pipe extending past the olive can be too long 😢. I found this when replacing all the valves in my current house so had to do a full drain. Also used liquid PTFE to ensure a seal.
As a plumber, I would advise NOBODY takes this approach. By all means do it yourself, but drain the system. There are too many variables if this goes awry.
Great tip. I have a rad in my house with 2 leaky valves, which have been shut for 3 years, because i dont want to drain the system. Its cold right now and I would like to use that room, so now i need to get a pair of those bungs, and 2 new valves. Thanks!
I often click on these type of videos for shits & giggles, but I can honestly say I’m impressed. Possibly one of the the best tutorials I’ve seen, very clear & concise. 😊Kudos. I’d just like to add to this video as a recommendation to any DIYer watching this and maybe the author could edit. It’s always good practice to count the number of turns when closing off the lock shield and when undoing undo by the same amount. That way if your CH system has been set up properly and balanced correctly you won’t alter the balance.
Straight to the point , get ready by having all the tools available to hand , towels and a collection tray , ( new valve etc ) find your loft ladder , have bungs in your pockets , and follow the video . Excellent , I'm feeling very confident !
As someone pretty able I found myself clueless with where to even begin with this issue. Your video was logical, simple and really easy to follow. It has saved me an hours Labour easily! Thank you. Hit that subscribe button!!
I can’t thank you enough. I have never attempted something like this before and I felt sure I was about to flood the room ! It worked perfectly and I am now waiting for darkness so I can bay at the moon ! Thanks again for a first class lesson
many thanks for sharing - I paid a professional plumber to come and fit a new one but all he did was hit the old one with heavy spanner to free the pin and charged us 45 quid plus VAT stating it didn't need replacing! I will be doing the job properly myself now!
Sounds like a fair price, he could of charged full cost to drain replace add inhibitor and rebalance, Call out cost only, his experience is worth a lot more
@@Luke-hf4vi a smart tradesman would have explained what was required and potentially got a more lucrative job out of it but each to their own. At the very least I won't need to trouble him again for the use of his spanner.
Tapping stuck TRV pins is a perfectly legitimate repair in many cases. Newish TRVs can stick too, and it's a bit OTT to go around replacing every TRV that sticks once in a while. If it keeps sticking that's a different matter, but it's an easy DIY job to tap a pin as you say. You can earn brownie points 😁 👍
I don't often submit comments, but I found this video really useful, so thought I'd say thank you. I was actually changing both the lock shield value with a TRV and the whole radiator, plus adding some inhibitor. The final steps were slightly different due to the additional steps, but overall, I followed the video. I'd really like to see a video how to change a leaking fill loop tap on the cylinder tank now!
What a wonderfully clear, no-nonsense explanation. I have two radiators which are stuck on full heat and I can't free the TRV pins, so time for replacement valves I think. Still not 100% sure I have the courage to do this myself, but if I get a heating engineer in I now know they can do it without draining the whole system. Either way, thank you!
Hi, this video has saved me at least £100, clear and informative. I have literally just finished replacing a trv following your video. The only thing I would add is a bit on how to repressurise a combi system. Fortunately, I just found a top-up loop with a tap in it and opened it, with the boiler off, and watched the pressure go back up. Mine is set at 1.5 bar. Thanks again, though, for this video.
Great vlog and here’s a great tip from me / Never do this on a weekend / do it early in the morning Monday to Friday ,just in case like me your heavy handed and you need a plumber to come out and save your floors 😮.
Fantastic tutorial. Got two quotes from different plumbers, one extortionate at £275 & the other £200. Followed this guide and got the job done in 30 mins at a cost of £15 for the part. Can't rate this guy highly enough.
Nice work!
Excellent, clear explanation. No nonsense, no annoying background music, straight-talking. 10/10
Sums up exactly what I try to make my channel about!
@@TheDIYGuy1 Job, done.
NOT JUST CLEAR .... I had it in mind assemblies like that had to be connected DRY
Guess they don't
Your arms look like they have jaundice
Yeah, this channel is the real deal
Hi mate , I’m currently putting myself through night school doing level 2 plumbing , I’m 46 years old and decided to have a complete career change , I understand college has to do it a certain way but I get frustrated things don’t sink in and feel I’m not learning but just want to thank you for your videos as you explain step by step as I can see you doing it 👍
Brilliant. Good luck with it and I’m glad to help you where I can. Break everything down in your learning into small steps/sections and you’ll be fine
Followed this video to change faulty TRV , managed to do it successfully.
One thing ..I bought the bungs and the expansion vent pipe I couldn't get my bung in as pipe was tight in the corner of tank and the tank wall was pushing the bung to the side , I'd to give up in using the bung and used a wine bottle stopper ( thing u put in the bottle once opened) it worked a absolute treat , I knew it had worked by checking the pressure thru the bleed screw
I accept no responsibility if u have to follow my way of doing it but thought I'd pass on my experience
VERY clear NO nonsense video , explanation second to none
Cheers mate
Guess you just have to finish off any wine bottles while the stoppers out of action 😀
Thank you so much for making this video. Made an otherwise daunting looking job entirely doable for me and the panic I was in. Discovered a pool of water under the a bedroom based angled TRV and further noticed water damage suggesting it had been stealthily leaking for a while before it had advanced enough to make a puddle. Watched this video, went to Toolstation and sorted within two to three hours. My wife was well impressed so might be able to get away with being a bit cheap this valentines day.
Having had several quotes for hundreds of pounds to replace a couple of leaking TRV's I watched your video and ordered the bungs & valves.
It took a while to pluck up the courage to do the job but yesterday I nervously took the plunge and all went well.
Job done and for a fraction of the cost.
Thanks very much for the video and information.
Great video, just one bit of advice. The heating system has hopefully been balanced by the installation engineer as part of the system commissioning. When closing each lock-shield valve on the system before exchanging the wheel-head control valve to a thermostatic valve, count the number of turns required to close each lock-shield valve and make a note of the number of turns. This way you can reopen each lock-shield valve to the original position, which will ensure that the system balancing is not altered, i.e. if this is not done you will find that the nearest radiators in a bungalow, or the upstairs radiators in a house will get hot quickly, but it will take a long time for the nearest or downstairs radiators to become hot, they will have sluggish circulation and may only get warm instead of hot when it is very cold outside.
Had an old (35yrs ish) Drayton TRV, which had stuck closed, tried WD40, pushing etc etc. Decided to change the valve, had a look on TH-cam for a way of doing without draining the system. Watched this video and thought "it can't be that simple" believe me IT WAS. Great explanation, can't thank the guy enough, for putting this video out.
Great video, changing radiator has always filled me with fear. But from following this video and your advice I overcame my fear and successfully changed out my radiators with out issue. Thanks for taking the time to make and share this.
Your very welcome. Well done for giving it a go 👍
Complete novice and the step-by-step guide worked perfectly. Brilliant. Many thanks. 👍
Mate your teaching is second to none.
Really easy to understand and you don't go on to different subjects showing all other crap other people do with DIY videos.
Best DIY videos on TH-cam brother
Really appreciate that 👍
Hi
Excellent video, best on U-tube for replacing a radiator valve. The TVR valve started to leak on Christmas Eve and I was apprehensive of changing the valve especially as over the Christmas Holidays plumbers either do not want to come out, or charge you a fortune on call out charges. As a 74 year old pensioner, with aid of this video, I was able to successfully replace the the valve myself.
Fantastic, glad I helped you
In all my years (65) I've never seen those bungs. They would have saved me hours of DIY over the years!
👍 always time
Hey just a quick one ...I'm not a plumber by trade and i shoved a cork in there....how come you didn't bung up the hole too ??
All cold feeds to the heating system should have a shut off valve , all you need now is a blank cap on the expansion
i just fixed 2 of my radiators that have not worked for years! The TRV pins were stuck in both of them. A few gentle taps and gently tugging on the pin (that was all the way in) popped it out and within 2 minutes the radiators were hot. 1 very happy subscriber.
5:57 a good tip is to count the number of turns used to shut the lockshield so the system remains balanced once opened again.
Good tip 👍
Your also relying on the system being balanced in the first place. Not many tradesmen have the "time" nowadays.
And also lockshield's are not all the same some a slight turn will open them other multiple turns open then which allow you to adjust the flow. So better to balance the rads correctly when you have finished changing the valve. Another tip is don't buy cheap locksheilds or TRV,'s
Agreed, I'm very surprised this wasn't mentioned
Very scientific.
Complete beginner with anything to do with plumbing. This video was clear, very well explained and incredibly helpful.
I personally had a bit of difficulty removing the old TRV as the the pipe was very stiff and didn’t have much wiggle room, got it off eventually after being brave enough to push the pipe slightly. Strongly recommend anyone who has the same problem as me to be extra careful if you need to do this.
Great video , thank you so much.Managed to change a leaking TRV valve today as a result of watching this which I never would have thought possible.The only snag I hit was not being able to get the water to stop despite closing the valves and trying to bleed off the radiator.In the end I just went for it , telling myself it's only water.Somehow managed to get it on first time and thanks to many towels managed to dry everywhere up afterwards.Heating back up and running and no leaks.Happy days.😁
Thank you, two TRV's at my mother-in-law's place have been stuck open for years wasting ££ of oil heating, with your expert video I have changed them and bled all rads, thank you!
Glad the video helps
Excellent clear video. No annoying music. Easy to understand thank you.🙂
Thanks!
Anytime
A great video, thank you. Like other commenters, I really appreciate the straightforward style, that you stay on your topic, and the lack of intrusive back ground music.
Thanks a lot 😁
Huge thank you for this. For over 2 years ive had honeywell evohome stats wedged onto the old Sanus non standard size valve head threads as i didnt have the confidence to change the valves over. Being a small job for a plumber i couldnt get one interested to do it. After watching this, I took the risk and in half a day. Changed 8 valves over and now have a fully functional system. Thanks again.
Your very welcome
Good video.
Anyone doing this themselves, DO cover the carpet well. Heating systems can contain some really rusty or even black sludgy water. It will ruin a carpet if it get on there.
Only thing I would have done slightly differently, especially with microbore rad tails is crack the compression connection to the copper first while the valve is still held firm by the radiator. If that puppy was to suddenly move it while trying to loosen it, it would be so easy to damage the pipework. I know, I have had grips lets go while holding a valve and using an adjustable on a nut. It can ruin your day. As others have commented, I'd count the turns of the locksheild valve as you close it as it's adjusted to balance the system. That one didn't look fully open going by the number of turns to close it off. The float arm on the ball valve was bent a lot and the water level was low. Add to that the level of corrosion, I wonder if the system is prone to pumping over due to a poorly placed expansion pipe in relation to the pump. The low water level could also mean the system draws a small amount of air in as the pump comes on, another cause of corrosion as you introduce fresh air into the system each time.
Great advice, thanks.
It actually works. Bought 2 bungs stuck them up in my tank, followed the video instructions and bobs your uncle. The only issue was the original olive was knackered so to cut it off my micro bore pipe. Other then that didn't need to drain the system. Amazing.
As soon as you went into the loft where the spiders live, your video convinced me to pay someone to fit the four valves. So thank you for that clarity.
🤣
Bbb
I dont even have a loft so i did the opposite if what he told me not too, got my hammer out and started to hit the shit out of it
😂😂😂😂😂
Spiders? Scared of spiders. Damn imagine having to weld underwater in the northsea oil rigs
Just bought my first house and one of the radiator valves started leaking. This video saved my ass!!!! Thanks so much :D
Fantastic walk through of switching out a radiator valve, time to order those bits and get it done :-)
😊q
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Qlqlqa1
A good video, easy to follow.
Two points I would add.
Be aware that on occasions you can get different threads on valves and it is wise to check compatibility, before getting part way through and going "Ooops!".
Second point.... I'd strongly suggest engaging the thread on the new valve body onto the radiator before tightening the inlet pipe nut.... it avoids finding there is slight mis-alignment on the second thread and having to re-align the first......
aren't all pipes BSP threads?
@@MrDigga53 I'd guess a mixture of BSP and metric...... I've been caught-out before with that.
How can you know? I get you will on the valves you purchase but what about existing pipe?
Excellent video, highly recommend. Easy to follow instructions, especially for a novice. Failed leaking TRV on a Saturday night, replaced with new one Sunday morning thanks to this video. Prevented an emergency call out fee, thanks.
Glad it helped
Clear, easy to follow video. I do a fair amount of plumbing in our house, but have yet to tackle replacing these TRV *without* draining the system as you say. Didn't catch your name, but thanks all the same !
Glad it was helpful
Sorry brilliant 😂👍
Finally found this video - a great how-to that should help me get over my fear of flooding our living room whilst I try and get the new valve on! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliantly clear! Had no idea it was possible before seeing this video.
😁
Rarely leave comments. Seen many radiator vids. Yours are best so far as they are so clearly explained, fully detailed and concise. Finally got the explanations that answered my unresolved questions.
Thanks for your comment
Got to say that's one of the best tutorial videos I have seen on TH-cam - very clear. I might have tied up the arm on the header tank valve in case there was a major leak and many TRV's fail because the little pin sticks - might be worth showing this and how to check/free them so you don't need to do a full replacement.
Absolutely, thanks
I was wondering what would cause a TRV failure.
Thanks for that. 🏆
Excellent commentary, great to see you support the valve when tightening the nut. One addition I would say is don't push the valve fully on to the radiator, as, if it bottoms when you tighten the nut and compress the olive it can't move into the valve slightly . Bottom it first,then pull back 2 to 3 mm .This is true for all compression fitting. No PTFE and no Boss White. Thanks again for your excellent video, one of the best. John
Great, cheers
Good practical advice, even for experienced DIY people. Simple, no nonsense instructions. Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks 👍will do
If you already have a thermostatic valve , no need to replace the whole unit. just change the thermostat on the original fitting. just make sure you buy a like for like thermostat.
After 24 hours of trying to fit a new radiator and then getting leaks galore once re-pressurising the system your video is the best out of dozens I've watched and allowed me to do a great install. The two things that saved me - not to use tape where there is an olive and to wind the tape around 10-12 times where it is needed. I was just doing it once or twice. Now I'm a happy bunny!
Very simple and easy instructions. Shows how easy it can be to do yourself and save a fortune by not involving heating engineers. Definitely worth considering.
Absolutely 👍
Next he will be showing us other ways of putting plumbers out of business
@@johncoakley9618 plumbers should make more effort to work and not overcharge then.
That would result in no people viewing, I stead there are more views whilst plumbers grumble.
@@troyharwood5377So all plumbers overcharge do they ?,and more effort to work ? what the hell does that mean ?
@@johncoakley9618 yes, all independent plumbers overcharge.
If you do not understand what I mean by working harder, my very point is proved.
Thanks for this video. I was dreading having to shell out probably a 3 figure sum this close to Christmas, to replace a seized valve. All done at a cost of £15 for the part in less than an hour! Very good and clear step by step instructions.
The rubber bungs are a modern take on this operation.
Years ago we used to use the vegetable method. Sounds absurd but a carrot an half a potato were the items of choice.
The carrot was paired down to a taper and this was used to bung up the tank outlet, the cut face of the spud was used to block off the expansion pipe.
Worked every time....you just needed to be careful not to snap the carrot or spud off when removing them.
😄
I always carry a handful of bear barrel tapered wood plugs, gained from working in a brewery
Wine bottle plastic corks fit my pipes, cheers!
Also if your having them for dinner rinse off well before cooking.
If you have leaks then you only have yourself to blame 😂🤣😂🤣
Mate, you are a lifesaver. Got the bungs from your link. Saved about £150. I’m happy. So is the Mrs and that’s what matters.
Thanks for using the link. Absolutely!!!
Fantastic, clear instructions. The best I have seen and I've viewed quite a few. Well done and thanks for sharing.
Your welcome. Glad you like it
Just something extra to add - If you have access to a wet/ dry vacuum cleaner have it running to suck up water as it appears around the valve and air bleed.
Replaced a leaking TRV today following your video, worked a treat brilliant video, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Glad it helped
This is exactly what I needed so thank you so much and keep these useful videos coming.
A masterclass in how to do it! Many thanks for sharing the detail.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video.
With a header tank in that dirty state, I would be advising the client of a pressure flush, far too much gunk in the system! Put an additive in as well. Stay safe!
Thanks for your comments. You stay safe too.
i wouldn't be advising the client of a pressure flush unless they were actually having trouble with gunk in the system
@@cliveramsbotty6077 you would if you wanted to charge them 400£ for half a day’s unnecessary work. 😮
@@1longholiday lol. 'i'm going to spend half a day pumping water around your system, that pumps water around your system. i might show you some discoloured water as well to justify the massive price i charge to pump water around'
Powerflush on 8/10mm pipe. Sure thing boss
Thank you ! This video helped me so much. The wife wanted a new radiator and 2 new brass valves.
I thought I might lose the vacuum if I changed them both at the same time, which I was planning on doing due to pipework not having much movement.
Luckily adding one onto the radiator and leaving the other on the pipework did the trick.
So happy I found your video.
Nice, clear video - Thanks!! So for a pressurised system, do you just reduce the pressure in the one radiator - then re-pressurise the system, bleeding each radiator on the system?
You shouldn't need to bleed each rad. What I do is close every other radiator valve and you'll get minimal drippage.
E vs scared of office lzyymsss
I'm a sparkie and and know didley shite about plumbing or heating, this vid has made it so simple and easy 👍 cheers bud
Thanks a lot 👍
Excellent video. You are a very good presenter.
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the video , I have needed to change a TRV for quite awhile but was not sure how to do it without draining the system. After watching the video I decided to have a go. following your instructions for a sealed system it took me about 20mins to complete. Thank you
Great video , always interested in how other professionals work . Your guide is really easy to follow . If it had been a combi system , I would have taken the opportunity to have drained the rad and filled it with inhibitor . Will be watching more of your videos now .
Thanks glad you liked the vid
Brilliant, what a great tutorial. Thank you so much for your clear and well described procedure.
Your welcome 👍
Excellent. Many thanks. First time I have heard of the tank bungs and now I can change my rad with confidence and not having to drain down. Much appreciated.
Great to hear! Thanks
another thing that helps , close all other radiator valves
Brilliant video which I followed exactly according to your instructions and I now have a shiny new TRV and managed to avoid any leaks. Also, no need for the Fernox or PTFE tape when fitting the new TRV! I had a little trouble understanding you when you mentioned the 'tank bungs', so thought I would mention them here. I bought a pair from Amazon for £13.99 (Heatlab brand) - expensive for what they are, but much cheaper than calling a plumber! Many thanks.
You just made me confident of doing a daunting job myself. Excellent, clear instructions! Totally worth a Subscribe!
Glad you like my videos
Many thanks for the video.
Used this to swap two TRV valves that were incompatible with my Wiser system.
First time I had swapped without a full drain down.
Just pulled the vacuum by bleeding both rads until no more fluid ran - then took the leap of faith undoing the valves 😂😂
Certainly speeded things up… 15 minutes for the two rads and no loss of of a system full of new inhibitor.
Great stuff 👍
Clear and concise instruction, definitely worth subscribing 👍
Thanks for subscribing 👍
Great video, thanks. I just did it myself and my radiator is working again.
One thing I'll add for those attempting is that when you take off the old fitting a jet of water may burst from the pipe, be prepared for that. Have a towel hanging behind to protect the wall and make sure you're swift with popping the new fitting on (with decorators cap fully screwed on).
Great Tutorial no gimmicks just straight forward advice Top Notch Thanks Matey
Very welcome 👍
As somebody who's new to home ownership and an old home at that these videos are a life and money saver
:) thanks
I’d recommend counting the number of turns on the lock shield valve and return it to the same position as the system should be balanced. This done to allow all radiators an equal share of water when the heating comes on otherwise the nearer radiators to the boiler heat up first.
Video on the way for this exact subject
But how many systems have ever been properly balanced?
thankyou so much, even by the time i bought the tools and fittings it saved me so much money than having a plumber in.
Can you do an edited version of this for a non gravity system? I found it confusing although I was very impressed by the quality and laughed when I thought about the type of DIY videos we had to put up with a few years ago. Thumbs up.
Its basically the same only you dont have to bung up the header tank in the loft 👍🏻
Thank you very very much for the information.. just one thing.. can I just change the top value only? That is not replacing the metal piping.. if so, are the top value all standard size?..Thank you.
Thank you very very much for the information.. just one thing.. can I just change the top value only? That is not replacing the metal piping.. if so, are the top value all standard size?..Thank you.
@@dw1hkdavidtkwongI would have thought they come as a matching pair, but you could try. You’d have to make sure it’s the same type of valve for the TRV. Mine do not screw on to the body like in this video, so these wouldn’t fit my valve for instance.
Can you not push the ball valve up and put a bit of wood underneath it to stop the tank filling up? Maybe tie it on to secure it.
Thank you so much for making this video...Excellent info' and explanations for a job many people would not want to do themselves. Saving the cost of a plumber callout. Thank you...👍
I watched the video which was very clear except I have watched a similar video changing a valve on a combi system where the guy when pulling off the old valve had to put his thumb over the pipe to stop water under pressure leaving the pipe. Then manipulate the new valve quickly on causing a loss of water. In your video you say a pressurised system valve change was the same as a gravity system without the need for the bungs . I am slightly confused, why did the other guy have water leakage under pressure
I agree. I feel like this doesn’t apply for a combi system. Closing the TRV isolates it at this point, still a load of pressure behind it!
Agree
If you bleed the system pressure down, which he did do - using the screwdriver, first you are then reducing the pressure in the system before you go near the valves ..
But he didn't drain the entire system, so isn't there still pressure behind the valve in the copper pipe, so that when you take the button nut off water will come out quite fast?
God does he go on turned the hobbit onto Lord of the rings extended version😂
Excellent video, I've done this in the past but it was just the reminder I needed about the order of things. Two things not to forget: i) Tie up the header tank ball valve, if you do lose vacuum the last thing you want is it being topped up from above. ii) Don't forget to bleed the rads (all of them) when you are done and after a week of use.
Thanks for sharing!
Just a thought if you're replacing an very old valve: the length of copper pipe extending past the olive can be too long 😢. I found this when replacing all the valves in my current house so had to do a full drain. Also used liquid PTFE to ensure a seal.
And the nut on the rad tail might be a different size on a very old TRV.
As a plumber, I would advise NOBODY takes this approach. By all means do it yourself, but drain the system. There are too many variables if this goes awry.
Thank you very much.
You have explained this video so nicely in details. I will always go to your videos if I want to do any D.I.Y. Thanks Again
Most welcome 😊
Excellent, well presented and straight to the point. Always top notch content from this guy. Will try this out for my rads
Perfect timing. I have to do this for one radiator and knew nothing about using the two bungs in the tank. Very many thanks.
No problem 👍
I've been really nervous about taking this on but, having watched your excellent, clear, concise and informative vid I'm feeling confident. Thanks.
Great tip. I have a rad in my house with 2 leaky valves, which have been shut for 3 years, because i dont want to drain the system. Its cold right now and I would like to use that room, so now i need to get a pair of those bungs, and 2 new valves.
Thanks!
Has to be one of the best communicators on the subject. Excellent.He appears to be a top notch tradesman.
Thanks very much 🙂
Thanks for ths video. Swapped out a normal control for a TRV on Sunday on a downstairs radiator, without draining the system. Saved loads of effort!
I often click on these type of videos for shits & giggles, but I can honestly say I’m impressed. Possibly one of the the best tutorials I’ve seen, very clear & concise. 😊Kudos.
I’d just like to add to this video as a recommendation to any DIYer watching this and maybe the author could edit.
It’s always good practice to count the number of turns when closing off the lock shield and when undoing undo by the same amount. That way if your CH system has been set up properly and balanced correctly you won’t alter the balance.
Very nice explanation, clear, good delivery speed, covers all the relevant points and what could go wrong, thank you.
Straight to the point , get ready by having all the tools available to hand , towels and a collection tray , ( new valve etc ) find your loft ladder , have bungs in your pockets , and follow the video . Excellent , I'm feeling very confident !
Glad it inspired you
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I know I'm not alone in saying that it's really appreciated.
As someone pretty able I found myself clueless with where to even begin with this issue. Your video was logical, simple and really easy to follow. It has saved me an hours Labour easily! Thank you. Hit that subscribe button!!
Thanks for subscribing 👍
I followed your instructions today on a rad in a pressurised system and it worked exactly as per the video. Many thanks.
Great video; really helpful and clear. Actually looking forward to tackling ours now as it’s totally removed the fear of the unknown !
That's a very nice and clear explanation without a lot of noise. Thank you very much!!
I can’t thank you enough. I have never attempted something like this before and I felt sure I was about to flood the room ! It worked perfectly and I am now waiting for darkness so I can bay at the moon ! Thanks again for a first class lesson
many thanks for sharing - I paid a professional plumber to come and fit a new one but all he did was hit the old one with heavy spanner to free the pin and charged us 45 quid plus VAT stating it didn't need replacing! I will be doing the job properly myself now!
😆 go for it!
Sounds like a fair price, he could of charged full cost to drain replace add inhibitor and rebalance,
Call out cost only, his experience is worth a lot more
@@Luke-hf4vi a smart tradesman would have explained what was required and potentially got a more lucrative job out of it but each to their own. At the very least I won't need to trouble him again for the use of his spanner.
Tapping stuck TRV pins is a perfectly legitimate repair in many cases. Newish TRVs can stick too, and it's a bit OTT to go around replacing every TRV that sticks once in a while. If it keeps sticking that's a different matter, but it's an easy DIY job to tap a pin as you say. You can earn brownie points 😁 👍
Yep. I use an SDS drill on hammer and vibrate it out. £60 I charge so you've got a bargain there.
I don't often submit comments, but I found this video really useful, so thought I'd say thank you. I was actually changing both the lock shield value with a TRV and the whole radiator, plus adding some inhibitor. The final steps were slightly different due to the additional steps, but overall, I followed the video. I'd really like to see a video how to change a leaking fill loop tap on the cylinder tank now!
Great, thanks
What a wonderfully clear, no-nonsense explanation. I have two radiators which are stuck on full heat and I can't free the TRV pins, so time for replacement valves I think. Still not 100% sure I have the courage to do this myself, but if I get a heating engineer in I now know they can do it without draining the whole system. Either way, thank you!
TRV replaced! Thanks! Couldnt have done it without you!
Watched your video.. got a couple of bungs, replaced trv valve.. hard job made easy ❤
Thanks for a clear concise video
fantastic tuition easy to follow. I have now replaced 4 all perfectly straight forward. 10/10
Thank you! I've just changed two valves successfully on my S-plan system using your instructions.
👍 fantastic
You're a good guy, and as a result of this, I am subscribing, thank you😉😉
You learn something every day, I always thought TRV's worked on room temp not radiator temp.
They do
@tr13090 sorry, I was being sarcastic, I am aware how they work 👍. I was a Heating and Ventilation Engineer
thanks again DIY man!!
your list of DIY knowledge is endless!!..keep em coming chap!!
Hi, this video has saved me at least £100, clear and informative. I have literally just finished replacing a trv following your video. The only thing I would add is a bit on how to repressurise a combi system. Fortunately, I just found a top-up loop with a tap in it and opened it, with the boiler off, and watched the pressure go back up. Mine is set at 1.5 bar. Thanks again, though, for this video.
Glad you liked the vid. Thanks
fanatic. not too fast just right. easy to follow brilliant.
Steve from Bradford
Perfect 👍
Brilliant video,
I just did mine as pee instructions from this video and has saved me some cash.
Thanks for the great video 👍👍
Great vlog and here’s a great tip from me / Never do this on a weekend / do it early in the morning Monday to Friday ,just in case like me your heavy handed and you need a plumber to come out and save your floors 😮.
Excellent. Very easy to understand without too much technical jargon
Cheers