Damn what a great solution, i wish that i found your channel sooner. Truely this is really good stuff. So can you give your suggestion on how much time would you take as the mininum and the maximum time limit for charging each one of it?? I'm truely need your advise, base on your understanding and experience what would you recommended as the minimum and the maximum time range to take so that im not gonna harm it by charging it to long or too short.
Dennis LiPo batteries definitely do. That's why you should never leave them charged - otherwise they're going to be destroyed... They lost all it's capacity. But LiIon, like the 18650s, never done that with me... And if they do it means they're not good anymore.
@@MCsCreations You have to be careful, there are some really bad 18650's on the market. All claiming to match the specs and performance of Samsung cells. I bought a brand new battery pack for my laptop and didn't get 6 months out of it before it died.
The BMS has a value for cells, when they drop under it its not safe to charge and use the pack, so the BMS turns the pack off. If you put the voltage on that cell up to where the others are the BMS will allow charging again. I dont recommend doing this at all, replace the cells instead.
QUESTION: I am trying to revive a 52V 20ahr ebike battery that I let discharge over the winter months. I have a power supply connected (set at 52V) to the pack leads. I started charging at .5 amp and over a two-hour period have increased to 2.5 amps. What do you recommend for a charging amp rate? The battery came with a 3-amp charger that I will connect when the battery reaches 52Vif it doesn't catch fire ha ha.
Love your channel. I am building a off-grid, solar system with 48v battery bank of 18650s. So far, I have 180p14s (2,520 cells) yielding 390ah @ 48v. I've set my Midnite Classic 150 to shut off at 47v (3.36v/cell) and battery on at 54.6 (3.90v/cell) yielding about 60% DOD based on 4.2/cell -> 3.0/cell for 100%. Battery University (and other bits) indicate 60% DOD lead to 5,000-6,000 cycles before cells drop below 80% capacity... but info seems a bit fuzzy. understand that if I went to extremes like 25% DOD instead of 60% DOD I'd extend my cycles to 10,000? or 15,000? - but 25% DOD is only 5kwh where as 60% is 12kwh (in my case). I have my controller set to a range of 3.90v -> 3.36v/cell (58%) assuming 4.2v -> 3.0v (100%). Do you have any thoughts / advice on this? What is reasonable DOD? What voltage range do you use for max/min? Do you do full charge (to max) before allowing battery drain or just set 1/2 way (say 3.6v/cell) for inverter on? Any info / thoughs appreciated :)
if your charging regularly the latter is sufficient. oh yeah before i forget our time is important stop with the drabble please your the only one trying to be impresed have you got that 25% iso 9001
what kind of balance do I have to use for a 24v Power wall? It has 1025 .64 watts. 7s 18p nominal 25.9v. What balance should I buy? It's for a solar system
going around your neighborhood offering to balance the neighbors lawn mower batteries (maybe even the snowblowers) might be a decent gig for a highschool/college student.
Hello one question: I saw a video where someone measured all the Li-Ion cells of an escooter individually. 3 cells had about 2.8 volts and all others 3.4 V. How does this extreme drift come about, how can it be prevented???
Can I use the factory battery charger to charge the cells outside of bms ? or do I need a specific charger like yours. Thank you for the informative video.
Did you found a solution, mate ? My battery is low voltage too and my factory charger can't charge it anymore because of that and i'm a bit afraid to charge it directly to the battery past the BMS with the factory charger..
@@Samishii00 go through the cells and see if they output voltage if they do. It's the BMS not working. You charge directly the cells disregarding the BMS but you will need to change it for the cells to balance correctly later. Using the charger on the cells directly will work if the voltage output is correct and you wire to the negative and positive terminal of the battery respectively
@@hedialaya3230 Thanks for the answer mate ! Hard for me to do that tho' since i can't get the battery out of my scooter without damaging a lot of things. If i buy myself a Modulable power supply, do you think i could directly branch it to BMS so that it charge the battery, if i lower the tension enough ot be in range. Cause i have a 48v battery but when i put my multimeter to it i just have 2V or 1.8V, that's low as hell !
I also have the same mower as you, (RS630) with same battery and same problem. I was going to connect charge head directly to main battery terminals as you did to bring voltage up. Then I noticed that the factory charger outputs 34 volts. What is your thoughts on doing it this way?
Hello Can I ask your charger on your desk? Have you connected directly the battery to charger ignoring bms? Then, it is balanced automatically? I want to ask you the model name of it.
Only if you cant reach the balance leads. But if the battery is empty you may not know what lead goes where. Beware that reviving a battery being dead is HIGH risk. DO NOT do it in house if you have the slightest concern
dps device. Like this: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=dps5020&_sacat=0&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338074051&toolid=11800&mkevt=1
I really hope you read this! And can direct me a little?! I have 60V 20AH Lithium battery that belongs in my E-chopper, it doesnt charge anymore with original charger, when i check my battery with my multimeter it reads 48,3V So it is not yet completly dead right? If i get that powersupply like yours, i need to disconnect the bms? And then find de black and Red wires coming straight from the cells? And then connect the power supply? But at wich voltage do i put it then? I really need it working for my chopper again! And a new same battery is €400+... I really hope you still anwser questions here! Kind Greetings from the Netherlands!
Hi, Im here still :) First of meassure each individual cell. It can be 1 cell that is dead causing the bms to shut down not letting the charger to charge. Also crosscheck that your charger actually works. From there you can look further but before any manual intervention you need to meassure whats going on.
@@DIYTechRepairs i checked my charger and that reads (63, something) so thats good! I currently dont have a powersupply like you, a friend of mine who i asked if he maybe had one, because he works in a lab at a university, sadly he didnt had one, but he said that i could also maybe possibly use a usb cable with stripped ends and hold those on the individual cells?? Like a magyver style recharge? Would that possibly work? I now will go open up my battery pack again and first will measure each individual cell! Thankyou soo soo much for reacting! Been struggling with this issue for 5 days already🤣 I will keep you updated when i have measured each cell, will you be here for today? Because i'm gonna check the cells in like 10 minutes, and then i will put my findings here again
@@DIYTechRepairs i have not yet checked the cells but i just had an amazing idea! I rememberd that somewhere i still had an unfinished DIY Powerbank Project laying arround WITH a micro usb 18650 charging module!! So i just found it and desolderd all the old wires, i'm now going to resolder 2 wires, and then i will check each cell! And if i find bad ones i can just put the charging module on it in theory and they will charge up!
Okay so i have a battery pack with thats 60V 20Ah when i check the connected blocks of 16 cells with multimeter most give 10,2 But the 2nd block of 16 cells show 0.00 (i cant check them individually because they are are connected as series. (There are 8 blocks with 16 cells each, and one block of 16 cells shows 0.0) Do i need to attach my 3.7V 18650 Usb charger to that block? What should i do now?
@@jaspervandertuuk2109 You need to check each cell not several cells in series. It sound like one is totally dead and that most likely need to be replaced if its 0.0v.
@@DIYTechRepairs Ok thanks, in your opinion with these Chinese bms it is better to bring them to 3.85volt/cell (for storage battery), is it better to get there from a higher voltage by discharging the battery or from a lower voltage by charging? I ask this question because I don't know how the balancer works in these cheap bms.
Battery companies need to do better with this crap. I've never had this problem with the lithium batteries for my power tools. I have batteries that are like 15 years old that never go dead like e-bike batteries.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Done exactly this on my ebike battery and it recovered. Left it over the winter and killed it. Now all good. Ty for the help.
Damn what a great solution, i wish that i found your channel sooner. Truely this is really good stuff.
So can you give your suggestion on how much time would you take as the mininum and the maximum time limit for charging each one of it?? I'm truely need your advise, base on your understanding and experience what would you recommended as the minimum and the maximum time range to take so that im not gonna harm it by charging it to long or too short.
The most informative video, really help to repair some battery pack sitting dead in my workshop.
Really nice, dude. Weird that the cells discharged themselves! Even more weird is the fact that the BMS won't recharge in this case.
MC's Creations it not weird every lithium battery does that.
Dennis LiPo batteries definitely do. That's why you should never leave them charged - otherwise they're going to be destroyed... They lost all it's capacity. But LiIon, like the 18650s, never done that with me... And if they do it means they're not good anymore.
@@MCsCreations You have to be careful, there are some really bad 18650's on the market. All claiming to match the specs and performance of Samsung cells. I bought a brand new battery pack for my laptop and didn't get 6 months out of it before it died.
The BMS has a value for cells, when they drop under it its not safe to charge and use the pack, so the BMS turns the pack off. If you put the voltage on that cell up to where the others are the BMS will allow charging again. I dont recommend doing this at all, replace the cells instead.
Hi! What needs to be done to make sure that the cells get balanced properly after the charger is able to charge them.
Do you have a recommendation for a bench power supply? Thanks!
Where can I buy the parts to make an adjustable charger like you have?
Okay this is very cool. What kind of power source can I use to get these battery cells up to a acceptable level for the bms?
@@jamesbondaygee any cc cv
What make is your battery charger?
Im gunna try this tomorrow as a new battrey for my bike is 200+ so if it works its a bonus thanks man
Could you do this with a standard multi voltage 1000ma PSU or using one battery that's fully charged?
Spacey bar 🖖😎
QUESTION:
I am trying to revive a 52V 20ahr ebike battery that I let discharge over the winter months. I have a power supply connected (set at 52V) to the pack leads. I started charging at .5 amp and over a two-hour period have increased to 2.5 amps.
What do you recommend for a charging amp rate?
The battery came with a 3-amp charger that I will connect when the battery reaches 52Vif it doesn't catch fire ha ha.
It worked, battery is now on the charger!!!
Are the connections you are making at 5:45 equivalent to charging using the discharge cable?
You charge until the charger disconnects, wait 6 hours, discharge slightly and then charge fully again.
A few of these cycles will balance the cells.
Does this really work?
@@mct8888 Only if cells are in good state.
@@xerejuneseve6333 what does the 6 hours have to do with it?
@@xerejuneseve6333 what is the relevance of the 6 hours?
Why wait 6 hours?
Where can I send my Panasonic 48v for that type service? Mine sat for 8 months ?
Love your channel. I am building a off-grid, solar system with 48v battery bank of 18650s. So far, I have 180p14s (2,520 cells) yielding 390ah @ 48v. I've set my Midnite Classic 150 to shut off at 47v (3.36v/cell) and battery on at 54.6 (3.90v/cell) yielding about 60% DOD based on 4.2/cell -> 3.0/cell for 100%. Battery University (and other bits) indicate 60% DOD lead to 5,000-6,000 cycles before cells drop below 80% capacity... but info seems a bit fuzzy. understand that if I went to extremes like 25% DOD instead of 60% DOD I'd extend my cycles to 10,000? or 15,000? - but 25% DOD is only 5kwh where as 60% is 12kwh (in my case).
I have my controller set to a range of 3.90v -> 3.36v/cell (58%) assuming 4.2v -> 3.0v (100%). Do you have any thoughts / advice on this? What is reasonable DOD? What voltage range do you use for max/min? Do you do full charge (to max) before allowing battery drain or just set 1/2 way (say 3.6v/cell) for inverter on?
Any info / thoughs appreciated :)
if your charging regularly the latter is sufficient. oh yeah before i forget our time is important stop with the drabble please your the only one trying to be impresed have you got that 25% iso 9001
Can I bypass the BMX with the original 36 v charger. By slicing the wire and use small clip wires to connect the whole 36 v batteries for 15 min
what kind of balance do I have to use for a 24v Power wall? It has 1025 .64 watts. 7s 18p nominal 25.9v. What balance should I buy? It's for a solar system
going around your neighborhood offering to balance the neighbors lawn mower batteries (maybe even the snowblowers) might be a decent gig for a highschool/college student.
I'd like to consult with you about a LECTRIC e-bike battery whose charging port got wet....
Brilliant ! Just what I was looking for, thank you!
Glad it helped!
Can u post a how to for your charger?
Hello one question: I saw a video where someone measured all the Li-Ion cells of an escooter individually.
3 cells had about 2.8 volts and all others 3.4 V. How does this extreme drift come about, how can it be prevented???
Can I use the factory battery charger to charge the cells outside of bms ? or do I need a specific charger like yours. Thank you for the informative video.
You can use all chargers that support slow Charge or low voltage Charge. For instance nimh settings as start
Did you found a solution, mate ?
My battery is low voltage too and my factory charger can't charge it anymore because of that and i'm a bit afraid to charge it directly to the battery past the BMS with the factory charger..
@@Samishii00 go through the cells and see if they output voltage if they do. It's the BMS not working. You charge directly the cells disregarding the BMS but you will need to change it for the cells to balance correctly later. Using the charger on the cells directly will work if the voltage output is correct and you wire to the negative and positive terminal of the battery respectively
@@hedialaya3230 Thanks for the answer mate !
Hard for me to do that tho' since i can't get the battery out of my scooter without damaging a lot of things.
If i buy myself a Modulable power supply, do you think i could directly branch it to BMS so that it charge the battery, if i lower the tension enough ot be in range.
Cause i have a 48v battery but when i put my multimeter to it i just have 2V or 1.8V, that's low as hell !
I also have the same mower as you, (RS630) with same battery and same problem. I was going to connect charge head directly to main battery terminals as you did to bring voltage up. Then I noticed that the factory charger outputs 34 volts. What is your thoughts on doing it this way?
You saved my life, thank you
Hello
Can I ask your charger on your desk? Have you connected directly the battery to charger ignoring bms? Then, it is balanced automatically? I want to ask you the model name of it.
Yes
@@DIYTechRepairs Can I ask the name? It is general multi voltage power supplier?
@@JuJu-zb7rt yes it is
Do I have to remove the battery housing?
Only if you cant reach the balance leads. But if the battery is empty you may not know what lead goes where. Beware that reviving a battery being dead is HIGH risk. DO NOT do it in house if you have the slightest concern
Whats that charging device you are using called?
dps device. Like this: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=dps5020&_sacat=0&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338074051&toolid=11800&mkevt=1
Our ebike battery show only 0.996v instead of 52V, it charged up but still show same. Any suggestions? Thank you
I really hope you read this! And can direct me a little?!
I have 60V 20AH Lithium battery that belongs in my E-chopper, it doesnt charge anymore with original charger, when i check my battery with my multimeter it reads 48,3V
So it is not yet completly dead right?
If i get that powersupply like yours, i need to disconnect the bms?
And then find de black and Red wires coming straight from the cells?
And then connect the power supply?
But at wich voltage do i put it then?
I really need it working for my chopper again! And a new same battery is €400+...
I really hope you still anwser questions here!
Kind Greetings from the Netherlands!
Hi, Im here still :) First of meassure each individual cell. It can be 1 cell that is dead causing the bms to shut down not letting the charger to charge. Also crosscheck that your charger actually works. From there you can look further but before any manual intervention you need to meassure whats going on.
@@DIYTechRepairs i checked my charger and that reads (63, something) so thats good!
I currently dont have a powersupply like you, a friend of mine who i asked if he maybe had one, because he works in a lab at a university, sadly he didnt had one, but he said that i could also maybe possibly use a usb cable with stripped ends and hold those on the individual cells?? Like a magyver style recharge?
Would that possibly work?
I now will go open up my battery pack again and first will measure each individual cell!
Thankyou soo soo much for reacting! Been struggling with this issue for 5 days already🤣
I will keep you updated when i have measured each cell, will you be here for today? Because i'm gonna check the cells in like 10 minutes, and then i will put my findings here again
@@DIYTechRepairs i have not yet checked the cells but i just had an amazing idea! I rememberd that somewhere i still had an unfinished DIY Powerbank Project laying arround WITH a micro usb 18650 charging module!! So i just found it and desolderd all the old wires, i'm now going to resolder 2 wires, and then i will check each cell! And if i find bad ones i can just put the charging module on it in theory and they will charge up!
Okay so i have a battery pack with thats 60V 20Ah when i check the connected blocks of 16 cells with multimeter most give 10,2
But the 2nd block of 16 cells show 0.00 (i cant check them individually because they are are connected as series.
(There are 8 blocks with 16 cells each, and one block of 16 cells shows 0.0)
Do i need to attach my 3.7V 18650 Usb charger to that block?
What should i do now?
@@jaspervandertuuk2109 You need to check each cell not several cells in series. It sound like one is totally dead and that most likely need to be replaced if its 0.0v.
Thanks for your video
Can you please give us a link for the charger you used? I looked in the description and didn’t find it. Thanks!
Its not a charger but a powersupply. This one basically ebay.to/2RaTAiv
Thanks! I did learnt something from you.
what is the minimum voltage for each cell below which the bms blocks the charge? 2.6volt or less?
Depends on the bms but its ofte. Around 2.5v
@@DIYTechRepairs Ok thanks, in your opinion with these Chinese bms it is better to bring them to 3.85volt/cell (for storage battery), is it better to get there from a higher voltage by discharging the battery or from a lower voltage by charging? I ask this question because I don't know how the balancer works in these cheap bms.
@@sandroz321 they only balance by overcharging. Ie Above 4.25 v
What is that digital readout device on your bench? And where can I get one? I have an ebike battery I would like to revive if I can.
Links in description
ebay.us/vA3oLM This is the device. Exist in multiple sizes too
@@DIYTechRepairs That's great thank you. At that price ($34 - $50) it's so much cheaper than getting a new battery.
Very good! It was exactly what I tried!
Red cable is + and black is - right? Then why You connected red cable to negative side of cell?
Where did i do that?
Awesome thanks for the information very very good
Thanks for the knowledge.
Nice job
excellent explanation, thank you....
Excellent video.
Thank you. You may of help me out of battery hell.
Can you share the Brand and Model # of your battery pack charger? Please?
I looked at the link you provided to Kado Francois for the power pack but it is a little confusing to me. Is the model # dph5005 correct?
@@BigRigTom yes
@@DIYTechRepairs Thank you and I found it at Walmart. Great video and information too!
Can you repair the bike battery for me
dont thank me, thank you man. great vid
Thank you my friend.
Your the man
But why the BMS can’t balance the battery pack?
Most of those bms type balance based on overcharge only
PERFECT BRAVO !!!
Thankyou
Why the full battery when you try to used and 10 minute after go dead
Too bad I'm a plumber. This stuff gets me nervous. But I need a bench device
:) you can buy kits with the PSU to or even better a full pre built unit :)
Heyy eveyone my battery ran out and it won't charge, any help?
Battery companies need to do better with this crap. I've never had this problem with the lithium batteries for my power tools. I have batteries that are like 15 years old that never go dead like e-bike batteries.
I’m sure he’s really good at what he does but communication is not one of them 🤦♂️
First!