On PBS's site the Woodwright's Workshop has some terrific videos on planes. I've watched them a couple of times. What I noticed when I started sharpening my plane blades and chisels using the Scary Sharp method while building your Great Auk kayak design 13 years ago: If I sharpened the plane blade in the morning and, then shaved down a bunch of western red cedar, the blade wouldn't feel duller, but if I touched it up at the higher grits it was noticeably sharper.
If you flatten the sole of a plane on an edge sander it saves a lot of time and effort. The alternative is a milling machine. My old Stanley number 6 was hopeless before I flattened the sole using a worn out belt . You need to be careful of sparks though. It worked fine afterwards. I have replaced the irons in all my Stanleys with thicker/better quality. If I were starting again I would buy Luban/Qiangsheng, but then I have more money for my hobby now. Buying really cheap is a mistake.
I like the tool talk videos. I believe you touched on some other tools - I think it’s called the robobevel and a few scrapers. This information might be trivial to someone that has built a kayak before but for someone like myself who has never built a kayak before information like this is very helpful. I would like for you to touch on how to build a wooden strong back table. Thanks, Joe
I had a small plane I used for only cedar shakes and exterior trim. It seemed as if it wore evenly it was still sharp even though the blade and sole of the plane became deeply dished. But I still sharpened it back to flat every 6 months or so.
Great discussion! I have the Lie-Nielsen bronze block plane(#102), as well as a bunch of other block planes, but rarely use the others. The Lie-Nielsen fits in my hand and pocket very well. IMO the extra $$s spent on the LN has been returned many times over. I have old Stanleys and Records that have been tuned-up and have Hock replacement blades. The amount of time and effort to tune them up was significant when compared with the out-of-the-box performance of the LN. Suggestion/request: when you do a tool-talk on scrapers, it would be helpful to include cabinet scrapers and card scrapers. When I say cabinet scraper I am referring to the handled ones(similar in shape to a spokeshave) not the bodied ones that look like planes.
Thank you for this interesting video and all the links that you provided in the description. I am going to order and add the rabbet block plane to my collection. :)
I have not. I would likely want a whole series of them to efficiently work the inside of the kayak. I find the sharp scrapers serve my purpose well. I used to use the convex plane I made myself quite a bit. When tuned up well it works quite nicely, but I found scrapers are more efficient.
Have to agree on plane choices. Dad bought me a low angle Stanley as a Christmas present must be close to 40 years ago now, and it makes me smile every time I use it (perhaps even more now that Dad's gone). Maybe 20 years ago I bought the LVT Apron plane when I built my Wee Lassie, and it's a joy to use and brings satisfaction every time I use it. On the rabbet plane side, I was thinking of trying this modification, seeing as how I do have one of these cheap planes too and it never gets used (especially after I was recently given a good 'made in Canada' Stanley regular block plane that belonged to a friend's father). th-cam.com/video/DiTwEeFgAIg/w-d-xo.htmlm31s. As an aside, I was flipping through your first kayak building book this morning Nick, and it's interesting to see how your techniques have evolved over time, (and how much is exactly the same). Really appreciate how you're sharing.
I thought so too. I'll let you know when/if I give it a go. Still trying to figure out which side would be the best to cut out for someone who's totally right hand dominate, I think it would be the right side of the plane. I'll be checking out your keel line planing videos again for insight.
How tight are you supposed to crank that big flat brass round over the blade? I loosen mine to adjust the in or out, but then crank back down on it, just until my fingers almost bleed. Does it just need to be taut?
You don't need to crank it very tight. It should be snug, but bleeding fingers can be avoided. The goal is to have it so the blade doesn't move. If the blade is sharp, there will not be that much force to move the blade.
Agreed, price and name is not everything. I needed a number 4 plane and tired of looking on eBay for a Stanley I could afford, settled for a "Marksman" probably made in India or China, £8-69 delivered. It took a lot of setting up, the most work going into flattening the sole and reworking the chip breaker but I now have a plane (with wooden handles, not plastic) that will make shavings you can read a newspaper through and I'm seriously thinking of making a video to back my words up.
![โรงเรียนห้ามรัก โดนจับได้ตาย...!! [เอิร์นไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4u02Sbr556Q/mqdefault.jpg)
On PBS's site the Woodwright's Workshop has some terrific videos on planes. I've watched them a couple of times.
What I noticed when I started sharpening my plane blades and chisels using the Scary Sharp method while building your Great Auk kayak design 13 years ago: If I sharpened the plane blade in the morning and, then shaved down a bunch of western red cedar, the blade wouldn't feel duller, but if I touched it up at the higher grits it was noticeably sharper.
If you flatten the sole of a plane on an edge sander it saves a lot of time and effort. The alternative is a milling machine. My old Stanley number 6 was hopeless before I flattened the sole using a worn out belt . You need to be careful of sparks though. It worked fine afterwards. I have replaced the irons in all my Stanleys with thicker/better quality. If I were starting again I would buy Luban/Qiangsheng, but then I have more money for my hobby now. Buying really cheap is a mistake.
I like the tool talk videos. I believe you touched on some other tools - I think it’s called the robobevel and a few scrapers. This information might be trivial to someone that has built a kayak before but for someone like myself who has never built a kayak before information like this is very helpful. I would like for you to touch on how to build a wooden strong back table. Thanks, Joe
Thanks Nick. Could you do a tool talk about your hand saws please.
I had a small plane I used for only cedar shakes and exterior trim. It seemed as if it wore evenly it was still sharp even though the blade and sole of the plane became deeply dished. But I still sharpened it back to flat every 6 months or so.
Great discussion! I have the Lie-Nielsen bronze block plane(#102), as well as a bunch of other block planes, but rarely use the others. The Lie-Nielsen fits in my hand and pocket very well. IMO the extra $$s spent on the LN has been returned many times over. I have old Stanleys and Records that have been tuned-up and have Hock replacement blades. The amount of time and effort to tune them up was significant when compared with the out-of-the-box performance of the LN. Suggestion/request: when you do a tool-talk on scrapers, it would be helpful to include cabinet scrapers and card scrapers. When I say cabinet scraper I am referring to the handled ones(similar in shape to a spokeshave) not the bodied ones that look like planes.
Great talk Nick. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and viewpoints as always.
Thank you for this interesting video and all the links that you provided in the description. I am going to order and add the rabbet block plane to my collection. :)
I was never in one of your classes but if no one has claimed that Stanley I would love to tune it up and give it a home😉
Low angle block plain's are primarily for cutting end grain & light plaining on edge work.
Hello, have vou ever tried the japaneese wooden planes. There are some with a nice convex ágape.
Shape
I have not. I would likely want a whole series of them to efficiently work the inside of the kayak. I find the sharp scrapers serve my purpose well. I used to use the convex plane I made myself quite a bit. When tuned up well it works quite nicely, but I found scrapers are more efficient.
I'm gonna get a block plane and don't have any others... would you suggest a 1-3/8 wide blade or 1-5/8?
adam toth For the kind of work I do, I prefer smaller block planes because they fit in my hand better.
Really a personal preference and fit
Have to agree on plane choices. Dad bought me a low angle Stanley as a Christmas present must be close to 40 years ago now, and it makes me smile every time I use it (perhaps even more now that Dad's gone). Maybe 20 years ago I bought the LVT Apron plane when I built my Wee Lassie, and it's a joy to use and brings satisfaction every time I use it. On the rabbet plane side, I was thinking of trying this modification, seeing as how I do have one of these cheap planes too and it never gets used (especially after I was recently given a good 'made in Canada' Stanley regular block plane that belonged to a friend's father). th-cam.com/video/DiTwEeFgAIg/w-d-xo.htmlm31s.
As an aside, I was flipping through your first kayak building book this morning Nick, and it's interesting to see how your techniques have evolved over time, (and how much is exactly the same). Really appreciate how you're sharing.
That DIY rabbet plane video is a good idea.
I thought so too. I'll let you know when/if I give it a go. Still trying to figure out which side would be the best to cut out for someone who's totally right hand dominate, I think it would be the right side of the plane. I'll be checking out your keel line planing videos again for insight.
How tight are you supposed to crank that big flat brass round over the blade? I loosen mine to adjust the in or out, but then crank back down on it, just until my fingers almost bleed. Does it just need to be taut?
You don't need to crank it very tight. It should be snug, but bleeding fingers can be avoided. The goal is to have it so the blade doesn't move. If the blade is sharp, there will not be that much force to move the blade.
Agreed, price and name is not everything. I needed a number 4 plane and tired of looking on eBay for a Stanley I could afford, settled for a "Marksman" probably made in India or China, £8-69 delivered. It took a lot of setting up, the most work going into flattening the sole and reworking the chip breaker but I now have a plane (with wooden handles, not plastic) that will make shavings you can read a newspaper through and I'm seriously thinking of making a video to back my words up.
Interesting review. Thank you. :-)
Why did he pick those up so fast?? 6:52
Life’s too short to have a ugly block plane😊
Well, it’s evident that this guy does not favor his Lie-Nielsen plane.