Don't duct tape the gas tank, it needs to breathe, just don't lay the motor down, make a standard something to transport it upright, hey love your video, more people need to make videos like these, most people cannot afford a big boat so this is an option
Bought this motor and feel it's a great value. I have not found a drain plug to change the crankcase oil. Tipped the 25lb motor to the side in order drain the oil. Substituted the tilt pin with a ss 4" bolt to keep the prop out of the water; existing pin popped out of position when the water got choppy. Well done.
I recently bought a 3.6 Hangkia 2 stroke for my 16ft Jon boat, and I have only put it in the water one time. It did a fair job on a 6mile trip. I am still learning about it but I'm planning to take it out for a more lengthy period in the coming days. I'm nervous about it but I just found out that it is a Honda GXV50 clone. That I'm not familiar with either, but the word Honda gives me a bit more confidence. Thank you for the video you made, I'll check in again.
I have a 6hp Hangkai and it's junk. The water pump impeller keeps stripping out. I have put 2 on myself and taken it to a boat shop for the last one. All 3 stripped out within an hour of running on my boat.
@@jeffcryptohulkstewart2943 I believe the 3.6hp don’t have a water pump system. It’s air cooled and plus it’s a two stroke or at least mine is. You could shoot the thing and it will still start
I’m currently use one of these to push a 27ft fibreglass canal boat that has a broken inboard diesel engine and loads of weight inside, just about manage 2/3mph 😂
Your Hangkai 52 CC is very similar to my Tomking TK144FC. The ignition is very excessively advanced. Set it back toward top dead center and the motor will idle unstrained. Then replace the centrifugal springs with light ones and you wind up with a dynamite trolling motor. It's 1500 watts = 2HP out of the box. All chinese motors double the HP in print. 20W50 for the crankcase. 85W140 for the bottom gear hub. It's an aluminum bore, but should give 1000 to 2000 hours = better than any 2 cycle. There's also a 36 CC offered. Don't buy anything 2 cycle. I troll at 10 ounces or zoom at 30 ounces per hour. Reliable good purchase.
Hey Greg, Went over your video to check if I had missed something. I was looking for the part where you put gear oil in the lower unit. As you mentioned lowers have a drain plug and a fill plug. On this particular unit you have to remove the cotter pin and prop. The cone ("spinner") on the prop blades covers the screws that hold the cover plate and prop shaft seal. After removing the bolts and cover plate add gear oil. Careful not to over fill. Needs space for expansion. Rule of "THUMB" oil should be just above the prop shaft seal when returned to the vertical (operating) position. I realize that the oil level will be hard to view when it is all reassembled. Maybe you could drill and tap holes for your "drain" and "fill" plugs. This would make your yearly (seasonal) oil check/change easier. Or you could figure out the total volume of the gear oil box/cavity. Then add enough oil to the level of the prop shaft and seal. Please let me Know what you come up with. I'm interested in one of these small motors for my boat. Will be waiting to hear from you. Have fun on the water and stay safe. Ray
Thanks for the distance shot, viewers can’t get a concept of speed with the camera staring at the motor. Good thinking and thanks , still faster than my trolling motor
Good feed. Thanks for the info. I think it is to light for my boat. I want to make grand tours with it. Don't think it wil last, plus the noise, it is too loud!
I do not like a plastic prop in any outboard motor. Surely China can cast aluminum props! A plastic prop can crack and strand you in the boonies when you least expect it. A metal prop well balanced and unflexible (plastic flexes and breaks) will save your gears in the leg. I am looking for an inexpensive 6.5 hp outboard, but after seeing the "unbranded" outboards here on TH-cam, I think I will cruise Marinas and see what I will find used. Thank you for helping me choose not to make a mistake with Chinese Junk.
I've discovered a problem with these. The carb they use is undersized for starters. It has a 12 mm bore I think. More importantly I discovered that they don't utilize crank case pressure to actuate the fuel pump. Instead that port is open to the engine side of carb bore itself. It will of course see some pressure pulses, but not nearly enough relative to what it would get from the crank case. Also, seems to me at least, that at WOT the rotovalve will be completely open resulting in even less of a pulse exactly when you need it most. I do not see any practical way of engineering a solution to this. Every single replacement carb that I can find has a port on the engine side that should go to crank pulse. The engine on these Hangkai motors has no port there. Also they use a combination of mounting plates/risers so that, in my opinion, makes it even more difficult. These motors do have a crank vent tube that goes to the breather. I've been rolling around the possibility of somehow tapping into that in order to use a better carb. So far I don't have a solution
Recently bought a new warrior 12 foot Jon boat with, 10 horse merc elec start, 55 lb trolling motor with the two batteries, two clamp on seats and trailer for 6500.
Looks like a good little engine for the money. I bet it has a centrifugal clutch between the engine and prop. That's why it doesn't move until you increase rpm. Maybe you could find another cap for the gas that seals for transport laying down and then switch to the factory cap for running. It needs to be vented or a vacuum will build up in the tank as you use up fuel and it will quit. The best thing would be if you can find a cap that has a vent that can be opened and closed. I have a little Honda 2hp that has that kind of cap. It doesn't have a centrifugal clutch. The prop runs all the time but it idles nice and slow so it doesn't move much until you give it power. Plastic prop too. Super quiet engine.
I completely didn't even think of that but yes, you are 100% right. It does have to vent. I guess that was the cheapest way to make that happen. I had a Sears 7hp when I was a kid and it had an attached tank like that. I don't recall what type of cap it had.
I just ordered this little engine. I used to have a Suzuki df2.5 but sold it. I don’t feel comfortable going out with just an electric trolling motor, so this little engine should be the perfect solution to a backup. On the flip side I didn’t feel comfortable just using my Suzuki either without a trolling motor backup.
I have one 4.2 mph is top speed. The only problems is gas leakage out of the cap and over heating with long distance. I can go about five miles before the engine will shut off on it on.
I just got a 4hp 4stroke. From temu the instructions to mix the gas? Came with a two chamber mixing bottle like a two stroke with an extra prop that's not plastic any 2 kill switches 1 not connected to anything
You went the wrong way with the throttle cable. It should’ve came around and ran up beside the handle so that you can flip it around and go in reverse without the cable, stopping or the stressing the cable out… and that thing you’re saying that takes off the prop is the spark plug socket. You put it on the spark plug, and you stick the screwdriver through it through the hole to turn it.
Great hands-on video. I was interested in buying one for my Sea Eagle FoldCat but after seeing your test results I know it wont have enough thrust to get me out of a head wind. My 35lb. thrust trolling motor barely moves my boat in a head wind. Guess I'll get a 75lb. thrust electric motor.
That's a solid plan. I have only seen a 70 lb trolling motor once and it was extremely fast. It was on a heavy boat too but it could throw you out of the boat if you turned too fast.
I'm looking to buy one of those for my family member, the have to use every day for school, does it Worth it? Love you video, I looked at other videos, but this one was close up and personal, the way u explain stuff makes a big difference 🙏
It's a simple 4 hp lawnmower motor design. It will run for ages if you look after it, change oil, grease the movable joints etc. Of course better outboards exist but not for the money. Good luck with the motor!
Hey man several years back i bought one of these outboards but i bought the two stroke model water cooled it runs and functions but it vibrates my 10 ft jon boat so bad that the bolts on my one my rod holders came loose and it fell off in the lake how is this motor does it vibrate that boat the vbration on my boat was so bad that i vowed to never run that motor again and so far i havent ran that motor on my boat again
Una consulta yo compre uno de 4 tiempo primera vez que tengo un motor por la mitad de colá del motor lleva un cuadrado plástico y tiene 4 hoyos eso es una salida de agua ono este es enfriado por agua no se geacias
Try a viton oring for the fuel cap. I was guessing this motor would be just fine for long trips and not sucking up jellyfish or algae helps. The lower gear hub needs gear oil.
@@unknown-nj3kt I think it is too much weight for it. It will most likely cause it to over heat. It's air cooled so maybe it could handle it in cooler weather. You aren't going to get much air flow at that speed.
Absolutely. I really have no idea. It appeared to be oil and I think the lower unit in that motor probably has grease. It would have burned up fast if the lower wasn't lubricated. It belongs to a friend so I'll let you know if it does.
@@midsouthoutdoors7321 The "grease" in the lower unit is usually just thick (90w) oil. If some of that leaked but not all it could run for some time before failing. Does it have drain and fill plugs to check and top off the lower unit?
@@rickbauer7088 on this thing, I have no idea. On a typical outboard, yes. That is exactly how it's done. Nothing about this motor is normal though. I don't have it anymore to check.
@@midsouthoutdoors7321 Yes, the grease zerk above is for the steering in the mid section not the lower unit. Mention to your friend that he may want to check the lube in the lower unit or at least check for fill and drain plugs. It is entirely possible that the engine was also sprayed with oil to prevent corrosion while in a warehouse but it costs nothing to check and could prevent headaches in the future as I am willing to bet lower unit parts are not going to be readily available. BTW, loved the video and gave it a thumbs up for ya. Hope your friend gets many years of use from that little outboard.
Unfortunately it has a centrifugal clutch and once that burns up your going to pay hell to get the parts to fix it. Air cooled engine are also much louder then water cooled. Probably better to buy a clean used Yamaha or a new one of these
@@jorgej8855 so do chain saws, however they are designed to operate at high rpm’s. It’s when you run them at lower rpm the clutch can occasionally slip and glaze the clutch surface then once it’s glazed it slips even more readily and shall shorten the life even more. Direct drive meshed gears are stronger and more reliable that’s why larger engines only use them. Best to stay away from centrifugal clutches when possible. You always get what you pay for. Buy a cheap Chinese machine you get a cheap Chinese machine for example.
Not a "collar pin". It's a cotter pin. You forgot to add gear lube to the loser unit! Good luck with that motor lasting very long. You started it up and ran it wide open? No breakin period I guess. Nice going Einstein!
I'd Buy an old johnson 15 or yammy 15 two stroker for 4 or 500 those engines dont die after decades of working on outboards those are prob the most dependable engines ever made . spending a dollar on these Chinese things is too much imo but of course to each there own
I sadly bought the Cukusin 4hp. I DO NOT recommend buying these things! They are completely unreliable and you WILL regret the purchase. They are sure not 4HP at all. Best maybe 1 or 2. Think of a weed eater with a shaft and propeller and you have this.
I dont understand the logic of buying the cheapest possible equipment and expecting too much of it. Buy a little suzuki, yamaha, honda, tohatsu or mercury and be happy for many years! Availability of spare parts and dealers? Personally I do not believe that Chinese make crappy products. I believe in crappy customers that don't want to pay money for a decent product!!!🎉
Don't buy these. Every follow up reviews for these past the first video ends the same, the motor breaks. Save up and buy the Suzuki 2.5 or Honda 2.3. I've owned both of them and recommend both!
Don't duct tape the gas tank, it needs to breathe, just don't lay the motor down, make a standard something to transport it upright, hey love your video, more people need to make videos like these, most people cannot afford a big boat so this is an option
The oil on the outside is so the metal parts don't rust during shipping and being stored in the box
Bought this motor and feel it's a great value. I have not found a drain plug to change the crankcase oil. Tipped the 25lb motor to the side in order drain the oil. Substituted the tilt pin with a ss 4" bolt to keep the prop out of the water; existing pin popped out of position when the water got choppy. Well done.
I think the oil drain is behind the gas tank. I have to drop the gas tank to drain mine.
I recently bought a 3.6 Hangkia 2 stroke for my 16ft Jon boat, and I have only put it in the water one time. It did a fair job on a 6mile trip. I am still learning about it but I'm planning to take it out for a more lengthy period in the coming days. I'm nervous about it but I just found out that it is a Honda GXV50 clone. That I'm not familiar with either, but the word Honda gives me a bit more confidence. Thank you for the video you made, I'll check in again.
Thanks and good luck with your new setup
I have a 6hp Hangkai and it's junk. The water pump impeller keeps stripping out. I have put 2 on myself and taken it to a boat shop for the last one. All 3 stripped out within an hour of running on my boat.
If money is not an issue of course buy honda..which costs 6x the price or more.
@@jeffcryptohulkstewart2943 I believe the 3.6hp don’t have a water pump system. It’s air cooled and plus it’s a two stroke or at least mine is. You could shoot the thing and it will still start
I’m currently use one of these to push a 27ft fibreglass canal boat that has a broken inboard diesel engine and loads of weight inside, just about manage 2/3mph 😂
Your Hangkai 52 CC is very similar to my Tomking TK144FC. The ignition is very excessively advanced. Set it back toward top dead center and the motor will idle unstrained. Then replace the centrifugal springs with light ones and you wind up with a dynamite trolling motor. It's 1500 watts = 2HP out of the box. All chinese motors double the HP in print. 20W50 for the crankcase. 85W140 for the bottom gear hub. It's an aluminum bore, but should give 1000 to 2000 hours = better than any 2 cycle. There's also a 36 CC offered. Don't buy anything 2 cycle. I troll at 10 ounces or zoom at 30 ounces per hour. Reliable good purchase.
Hey Greg,
Went over your video to check if I had missed something. I was looking for the part where you put gear oil in the lower unit. As you mentioned lowers have a drain plug and a fill plug. On this particular unit you have to remove the cotter pin and prop. The cone ("spinner") on the prop blades covers the screws that hold the cover plate and prop shaft seal. After removing the bolts and cover plate add gear oil. Careful not to over fill. Needs space for expansion. Rule of "THUMB" oil should be just above the prop shaft seal when returned to the vertical (operating) position.
I realize that the oil level will be hard to view when it is all reassembled. Maybe you could drill and tap holes for your "drain" and "fill" plugs. This would make your yearly (seasonal) oil check/change easier. Or you could figure out the total volume of the gear oil box/cavity. Then add enough oil to the level of the prop shaft and seal. Please let me Know what you come up with. I'm interested in one of these small motors for my boat. Will be waiting to hear from you. Have fun on the water and stay safe. Ray
Spark plug socket. Same little tool kit that comes with a 4 wheeler
Thanks for the distance shot, viewers can’t get a concept of speed with the camera staring at the motor. Good thinking and thanks , still faster than my trolling motor
It has a centrifugal clutch. That's why it has to get some rpm going before the blade spins.
That's faster than I need to go.. good video..
Good feed. Thanks for the info. I think it is to light for my boat. I want to make grand tours with it. Don't think it wil last, plus the noise, it is too loud!
Yea,had one, but before I used it had to remove prop and fill with gear oil
I was gonna say this to but he just gave it the full send. Didnt give it any break in time either
Beats rowing to the fishing hole on small lake! I’d buy one
I do not like a plastic prop in any outboard motor. Surely China can cast aluminum props! A plastic prop can crack and strand you in the boonies when you least expect it. A metal prop well balanced and unflexible (plastic flexes and breaks) will save your gears in the leg. I am looking for an inexpensive 6.5 hp outboard, but after seeing the "unbranded" outboards here on TH-cam, I think I will cruise Marinas and see what I will find used. Thank you for helping me choose not to make a mistake with Chinese Junk.
I've discovered a problem with these. The carb they use is undersized for starters. It has a 12 mm bore I think. More importantly I discovered that they don't utilize crank case pressure to actuate the fuel pump. Instead that port is open to the engine side of carb bore itself. It will of course see some pressure pulses, but not nearly enough relative to what it would get from the crank case. Also, seems to me at least, that at WOT the rotovalve will be completely open resulting in even less of a pulse exactly when you need it most. I do not see any practical way of engineering a solution to this. Every single replacement carb that I can find has a port on the engine side that should go to crank pulse. The engine on these Hangkai motors has no port there. Also they use a combination of mounting plates/risers so that, in my opinion, makes it even more difficult. These motors do have a crank vent tube that goes to the breather. I've been rolling around the possibility of somehow tapping into that in order to use a better carb. So far I don't have a solution
Not a bad light weight motor for the money.
Recently bought a new warrior 12 foot Jon boat with, 10 horse merc elec start, 55 lb trolling motor with the two batteries, two clamp on seats and trailer for 6500.
Not a bad deal there. Congrats. 55 lb thrust is a beast on a jon boat. You can roll with that thing.
Looks like a good little engine for the money. I bet it has a centrifugal clutch between the engine and prop. That's why it doesn't move until you increase rpm. Maybe you could find another cap for the gas that seals for transport laying down and then switch to the factory cap for running. It needs to be vented or a vacuum will build up in the tank as you use up fuel and it will quit. The best thing would be if you can find a cap that has a vent that can be opened and closed. I have a little Honda 2hp that has that kind of cap. It doesn't have a centrifugal clutch. The prop runs all the time but it idles nice and slow so it doesn't move much until you give it power. Plastic prop too. Super quiet engine.
I completely didn't even think of that but yes, you are 100% right. It does have to vent. I guess that was the cheapest way to make that happen. I had a Sears 7hp when I was a kid and it had an attached tank like that. I don't recall what type of cap it had.
I just ordered this little engine. I used to have a Suzuki df2.5 but sold it. I don’t feel comfortable going out with just an electric trolling motor, so this little engine should be the perfect solution to a backup. On the flip side I didn’t feel comfortable just using my Suzuki either without a trolling motor backup.
I have one 4.2 mph is top speed. The only problems is gas leakage out of the cap and over heating with long distance. I can go about five miles before the engine will shut off on it on.
Oh man that's not good !
I just got a 4hp 4stroke. From temu the instructions to mix the gas? Came with a two chamber mixing bottle like a two stroke with an extra prop that's not plastic any 2 kill switches 1 not connected to anything
Only explore upriver and carry plenty of shear pins, paddle and spare flashlight.
That tool is to remove the spark plug,not the prop.
Ahh that makes more sense. Thanks for that
You went the wrong way with the throttle cable. It should’ve came around and ran up beside the handle so that you can flip it around and go in reverse without the cable, stopping or the stressing the cable out… and that thing you’re saying that takes off the prop is the spark plug socket. You put it on the spark plug, and you stick the screwdriver through it through the hole to turn it.
Faster than having a trolling motor with no battery
Agreed. Cheaper than some trolling motors too.
Great hands-on video. I was interested in buying one for my Sea Eagle FoldCat but after seeing your test results I know it wont have enough thrust to get me out of a head wind. My 35lb. thrust trolling motor barely moves my boat in a head wind. Guess I'll get a 75lb. thrust electric motor.
That's a solid plan. I have only seen a 70 lb trolling motor once and it was extremely fast. It was on a heavy boat too but it could throw you out of the boat if you turned too fast.
@@midsouthoutdoors7321 Yes I meant 70 lb. motor. Thanks for the advice on the turns.
Thanks for the videos
It's basically the same as the one I got mine was $220 and not shipped with oil all over most engines shipped leave the crankcase and or gearbox dry.
The cap needs to breath or it will starve and stall once fuel use results in vacuum
Ahhhh. That makes sense. My outboard tank has a relief valve on the top. I suppose this one was too cheap for that option.
I'm looking to buy one of those for my family member, the have to use every day for school, does it Worth it? Love you video, I looked at other videos, but this one was close up and personal, the way u explain stuff makes a big difference 🙏
Thank you. For the price, yes. The only major problem is getting parts if something breaks. I have not heard of anyone with truly bad experiences yet.
It's a simple 4 hp lawnmower motor design. It will run for ages if you look after it, change oil, grease the movable joints etc.
Of course better outboards exist but not for the money.
Good luck with the motor!
Spark plug socket was the one tool
Not bad for the money!
Love mine it works great cant beat it easy to pock up and carry put on gets where you need to go and slow enough to enjoy the ride lol
Thanks good video
That's great , I wouldn't trust one on the Mississippi River! Me either or going across the great lakes !
Always drain any shipping oil from a Chinese engine and put actual motor oil in it
Its decently serves its Purpose and Value. 4 HP like 4 men Paddling the boat
Did you get gaer oil In where the prop before you Start it
What state is your property in? And how much does it cost to get something like that?
Be great for renting a boat and bringing small motor
Great idea. All the smaller lakes out here rent boats
They inflate the hp. There's a few videos indicating the 6hp 2 stroke version is not even close to 6hp.
I paid $550 to a Honda 7.5 horse 30 years old??? Of course it's in good condition But after 30 years, who knows what or when it might happen.
Hey man several years back i bought one of these outboards but i bought the two stroke model water cooled it runs and functions but it vibrates my 10 ft jon boat so bad that the bolts on my one my rod holders came loose and it fell off in the lake how is this motor does it vibrate that boat the vbration on my boat was so bad that i vowed to never run that motor again and so far i havent ran that motor on my boat again
Una consulta yo compre uno de 4 tiempo primera vez que tengo un motor por la mitad de colá del motor lleva un cuadrado plástico y tiene 4 hoyos eso es una salida de agua ono este es enfriado por agua no se geacias
@@javierarenas4994 it sounds like an outlet for aqua
Try a viton oring for the fuel cap. I was guessing this motor would be just fine for long trips and not sucking up jellyfish or algae helps. The lower gear hub needs gear oil.
It's impossible to start when the engine is warm?
cool vid. Seems loud.
That socket is he spark plug wrench.
I just bought one and have to put gear oil in the prop, this one didn’t need it added?
I was told mine needed it when I bought it but I took it apart and it already had it. I refilled it by taking the prop seal off
Do you think it will be a good motor for Zodiac 3.20 using 3 people?
3 people is a lot of weight. I think this motor will move you but really slowly.
@@midsouthoutdoors7321 thanks for your answer! The problem is do you think this motor can handle it? Or is it too much for it?
@@unknown-nj3kt I think it is too much weight for it. It will most likely cause it to over heat. It's air cooled so maybe it could handle it in cooler weather. You aren't going to get much air flow at that speed.
It’s alot lighter than carrying a big battery with a tolling motor. Carry you a small gallon of gas and you’re ready for a dayer on the lake
Could the oil that was all over it have been from the lower unit? Prop shaft bearings etc?
Absolutely. I really have no idea. It appeared to be oil and I think the lower unit in that motor probably has grease. It would have burned up fast if the lower wasn't lubricated. It belongs to a friend so I'll let you know if it does.
@@midsouthoutdoors7321 The "grease" in the lower unit is usually just thick (90w) oil. If some of that leaked but not all it could run for some time before failing. Does it have drain and fill plugs to check and top off the lower unit?
@@rickbauer7088 on this thing, I have no idea. On a typical outboard, yes. That is exactly how it's done. Nothing about this motor is normal though. I don't have it anymore to check.
@@rickbauer7088 I said grease because it had an alemite just under the motor on the shaft. Those are for grease and not oil
@@midsouthoutdoors7321 Yes, the grease zerk above is for the steering in the mid section not the lower unit. Mention to your friend that he may want to check the lube in the lower unit or at least check for fill and drain plugs.
It is entirely possible that the engine was also sprayed with oil to prevent corrosion while in a warehouse but it costs nothing to check and could prevent headaches in the future as I am willing to bet lower unit parts are not going to be readily available.
BTW, loved the video and gave it a thumbs up for ya. Hope your friend gets many years of use from that little outboard.
for $300 i got a gomaxidrutries 4hp 2 stroke
It is a sparkpplug socket---NOT a prop tool---just saying.
Unfortunately it has a centrifugal clutch and once that burns up your going to pay hell to get the parts to fix it. Air cooled engine are also much louder then water cooled. Probably better to buy a clean used Yamaha or a new one of these
This isn't meant to be rebuilt. You throw it away and buy a new one. Just like you do with everything that is made in China
@@jorgej8855 so do chain saws, however they are designed to operate at high rpm’s. It’s when you run them at lower rpm the clutch can occasionally slip and glaze the clutch surface then once it’s glazed it slips even more readily and shall shorten the life even more. Direct drive meshed gears are stronger and more reliable that’s why larger engines only use them. Best to stay away from centrifugal clutches when possible. You always get what you pay for. Buy a cheap Chinese machine you get a cheap Chinese machine for example.
Wonder what saltwater would do to it
Who makes this motor?
Hi guy as gas consumption rufly please. Inform thanks guy.
I think this will work bteer with inflatable boats
Not a "collar pin". It's a cotter pin. You forgot to add gear lube to the loser unit! Good luck with that motor lasting very long. You started it up and ran it wide open? No breakin period I guess. Nice going Einstein!
I'd Buy an old johnson 15 or yammy 15 two stroker for 4 or 500 those engines dont die after decades of working on outboards those are prob the most dependable engines ever made . spending a dollar on these Chinese things is too much imo but of course to each there own
I was told told the predator motors from harbor freight will bolt right so if that's correct if something happens you can replace it with that
I wanna know Where u gonna find a reliable 15hp Yamaha for 400 dollars . Most of the ones u see on FB market place are junk
Where u buy this motor let me know please ths
ebay link in description
This motor have cooling fan?
no, air cooled only
Think I saw something twirling around on top of the motor. I think that's the cooling fan.
Mine was 220$
I sadly bought the Cukusin 4hp. I DO NOT recommend buying these things! They are completely unreliable and you WILL regret the purchase. They are sure not 4HP at all. Best maybe 1 or 2. Think of a weed eater with a shaft and propeller and you have this.
I dont understand the logic of buying the cheapest possible equipment and expecting too much of it.
Buy a little suzuki, yamaha, honda, tohatsu or mercury and be happy for many years!
Availability of spare parts and dealers?
Personally I do not believe that Chinese make crappy products. I believe in crappy customers that don't want to pay money for a decent product!!!🎉
4HP? Copy of the Honda GXV50. 2.1 HP motor. If you want an owners manual in English, get he Honda GXV50 manual. They are the same.
Don't buy these. Every follow up reviews for these past the first video ends the same, the motor breaks. Save up and buy the Suzuki 2.5 or Honda 2.3. I've owned both of them and recommend both!
That's pretty much what I thought might happen. Thanks
هل يعمل في المياة المالحة
يعمل
made in china.
How many miles and hours will it run on a full tank of fuel?
I don't know. This belongs to a friend. I only got the chance to unbox it. Sorry.
no i would by a used honda or merc