I was going to attempt the same repair on my 96 rav4 using a chiltons manual. lol good thing you have this vlog posted. Thank you for saving me the headache.
Don’t listen to this fool 😂 he so stupid…. And he makes a video how to do it… 😂 to remove the rear mount you just need to disconnect the rack and pinion from their mounts, the outer tied rod and disconnect from the steering whee and just lift and move the rack and pinion out pf your way…….
Hi bro you was spot on with your way did the Monts I managed to do the back one in about three hours I had some problems with the mont I got the bolts were bigger than the one that was on I had to drill it out a bit the video helped me a lot I was going to drop the sub frame a bit your way much easier thanks bro stay safe
I was wondering if I could do both, front and rear with polyurethane engine mounts. Seeing your video, I think I'll go to a pro. Thanks for the advice.
I found that you can use a jack to hold transmission then unbolt the driver rack and pinion bolt. And the tie rod end drivers side. I unbolted the crossmember from back end. 6 bolts got a scissor jack to hold and lower crossmember then lifted rack and pinion from tie rod end. Then slide out rear mount in a rainbow motion towards you. Put rear mount back in with rainbow motion. Life back up with scissor jack. Line up rack n pinion bolt then bolt back crossmember and tie rod end.
Aside from the studs vs bolts issue, are the front and rear mounts identical? If you used a front mount in the rear then it will be easier to replace next time.
Excellent explanation. Great tips (especially the labor time if working on the floor with jackstands). Disclaimer: I am not responsible in any way for anyone's decision to repair their or someone else's vehicle. The tips below are just what I have done at my own risk of injury and/or death. So, if anyone reads this and decides she/he wants to try, she/he will do so at her/his on risk of injury and/or death without holding anyone else responsible for any injury, damages, and/or death. Just make sure you use high-quality jackstands at all times!!! Here is a tip: if you are thinking of trying to force/slide in the rear engine mount while replacing it with a new one (the mount closest to the firewall) on a 2001-2003 RAV4 (probably this tip also applies to the 2004-2005 Toyota RAV4), I must share with you all that I tried that and now, and it was SO DIFFICULT to replace!!! SOMEhow, I was able to slide the brand-spanking new rear mount in place, and now the engine vibrates like there is a problem with the mounts. I will now have to do it the right way to prevent the whole car from shaking. A mechanic explained to me that maybe because I forced the rear mount in place, there are torsion forces (meaning the engine-transmission are a little off the correct position/angles of installation) and that is why the engine vibrates so much, probably due to me forcing /pushing the rear engine mount instead of dropping the crossmember a little before installing the rear mount. The experience below was with my 2003 RAV4. I also did the exact same job on my 2001 RAV4 (basically the exact same engine and transmission and motor mounts) and on the 2001 RAV4, I did drop the crossmember, and after the mounts were reinstalled, the engine is as steady as it can be from the manufacturer. So, it is undeniably effective to follow the proper protocols/procedures to replace the mounts, unless you want to have a repeat rear mount installation job. I have worked on my personal vehicles for the last 12 years, and have replaced manual transmissions, timing belts, timing chains, water pumps, entire cooling systems, entire dashboards and everything behind them. So, I am not the best engineer/mechanic, but I have had a fair share of DIY experience, and when it comes to the rear mount, I would always follow two important steps: (1) Buy good mounts (ESPECIALLY THE REAR MOUNT) and (2) drop the cross member. Disclaimer: I am not responsible in any way for anyone's decision to repair their or someone else's vehicle. The tips above are just what I have done at my own risk of injury and/or death. So, if anyone reads this and decides she/he wants to try, she/he will do so at her/his on risk of injury and/or death. Just make sure you use high-quality jackstands at all times!!!
I appreciate you taking the time to video and share this to anyone looking.
This is the only video online for the 1st gen rav4 motor mounts tutorial I have seen thanks
I was going to attempt the same repair on my 96 rav4 using a chiltons manual. lol good thing you have this vlog posted. Thank you for saving me the headache.
Glad it helps! Yeah give it to a shop, trust me
Don’t listen to this fool 😂 he so stupid…. And he makes a video how to do it… 😂 to remove the rear mount you just need to disconnect the rack and pinion from their mounts, the outer tied rod and disconnect from the steering whee and just lift and move the rack and pinion out pf your way…….
Hi bro you was spot on with your way did the Monts I managed to do the back one in about three hours I had some problems with the mont I got the bolts were bigger than the one that was on I had to drill it out a bit the video helped me a lot I was going to drop the sub frame a bit your way much easier thanks bro stay safe
Thank you , definitely couldnt find a video either
I was wondering if I could do both, front and rear with polyurethane engine mounts. Seeing your video, I think I'll go to a pro. Thanks for the advice.
I found that you can use a jack to hold transmission then unbolt the driver rack and pinion bolt. And the tie rod end drivers side. I unbolted the crossmember from back end. 6 bolts got a scissor jack to hold and lower crossmember then lifted rack and pinion from tie rod end. Then slide out rear mount in a rainbow motion towards you. Put rear mount back in with rainbow motion. Life back up with scissor jack. Line up rack n pinion bolt then bolt back crossmember and tie rod end.
Whatever works. I just hope i never have to do it again 😂
Aside from the studs vs bolts issue, are the front and rear mounts identical? If you used a front mount in the rear then it will be easier to replace next time.
Did you ever get an answer for this? I'm kinda curious. I have done two mounts on my 98, and about to do right side mount. Then the rear :/
Great vid! Do I need to jack up the motor to do just the front 3 mounts? Rear I'll have taken care of at a shop, thanks in advance
Thanks. I believe you do. Beware of the abs module lines...
The only 1st gen video, my rear trans mount is busted on mine also the alternator bracket bolt broke off in the block so now my rav4 has belt squeak
Welp I knew it wouldn't be easy, but Im going to do it anyways and hate myself lol.
Good luck mate
Excellent explanation. Great tips (especially the labor time if working on the floor with jackstands).
Disclaimer: I am not responsible in any way for anyone's decision to repair their or someone else's vehicle. The tips below are just what I have done at my own risk of injury and/or death. So, if anyone reads this and decides she/he wants to try, she/he will do so at her/his on risk of injury and/or death without holding anyone else responsible for any injury, damages, and/or death.
Just make sure you use high-quality jackstands at all times!!!
Here is a tip: if you are thinking of trying to force/slide in the rear engine mount while replacing it with a new one (the mount closest to the firewall) on a 2001-2003 RAV4 (probably this tip also applies to the 2004-2005 Toyota RAV4), I must share with you all that I tried that and now, and it was SO DIFFICULT to replace!!! SOMEhow, I was able to slide the brand-spanking new rear mount in place, and now the engine vibrates like there is a problem with the mounts. I will now have to do it the right way to prevent the whole car from shaking. A mechanic explained to me that maybe because I forced the rear mount in place, there are torsion forces (meaning the engine-transmission are a little off the correct position/angles of installation) and that is why the engine vibrates so much, probably due to me forcing /pushing the rear engine mount instead of dropping the crossmember a little before installing the rear mount.
The experience below was with my 2003 RAV4. I also did the exact same job on my 2001 RAV4 (basically the exact same engine and transmission and motor mounts) and on the 2001 RAV4, I did drop the crossmember, and after the mounts were reinstalled, the engine is as steady as it can be from the manufacturer. So, it is undeniably effective to follow the proper protocols/procedures to replace the mounts, unless you want to have a repeat rear mount installation job.
I have worked on my personal vehicles for the last 12 years, and have replaced manual transmissions, timing belts, timing chains, water pumps, entire cooling systems, entire dashboards and everything behind them. So, I am not the best engineer/mechanic, but I have had a fair share of DIY experience, and when it comes to the rear mount, I would always follow two important steps: (1) Buy good mounts (ESPECIALLY THE REAR MOUNT) and (2) drop the cross member.
Disclaimer: I am not responsible in any way for anyone's decision to repair their or someone else's vehicle. The tips above are just what I have done at my own risk of injury and/or death. So, if anyone reads this and decides she/he wants to try, she/he will do so at her/his on risk of injury and/or death. Just make sure you use high-quality jackstands at all times!!!
4 or 6 cylinder)
4