It's funny that I stumbled across this video because I did a small rebuild on my carb (main jet, emulsion tube and pilot jet) but the bowl was wrecked with rust patches and junk build up. I kept reading that the amazon carbs wouldn't match the wiring and I wondered if you could just reuse your old servo. I guess you answered that for me. Great video, clear, in focus and to the point. Great job and thanks!!!
Growing up in the South I know Shade Treein", and you Sir are that! Soon as you grabbed the tail of your shirt to clean off the gasket remnants I's like, "Yep, this is gonna work"
Thanks for the video. Just bought my Honda and the guy said he used once over two years so was selling it. I bet I have to change the carb. Thanks for your help.
Got me mine back up and running in 30 minutes. Scavenging the solenoid of the old one saved time and worked great. Of course beware of that springy thingy. Thanks!
Thank you brother for making a great instructional video. I bought the one off Amazon you had and was trying to figure out the electrical...Swapping over the electrical solenoid was the easiest way just like you described. I also used your starting fluid method for priming the bowl...and my honda eu2000 fired right up just like it was new. Great advise!
This was extremely helpful. I copied you pretty much exactly and my 10-year-old generator now runs again and sounds great. Thanks so much for your help
Followed the instructions, changed everything out, and had trouble starting. The idle screw needed to be adjusted so that it was more open, if that makes any sense. I watched another video that said to screw in your existing idle screw and count the number of turns, then do the same on the new screw. That seemed to work. I also did the full 100 hour service on it, spark plug, oil, filters at the same time. Once I did everything she started up like new.
My carb bowl was rusted up pretty good. Kept jamming up the flow. I'd clean it up and that would work for awhile, but it was time for a new carb. I did the change over just as you demonstrate, but the new carb worked like shit. I wasn't getting output. Tried adjusting idle.....couldn't get r working. Just now went back to the factory carb using the bowl from new carb. Works like a champ. Just wanted to pass that along. This is a great video......the amazon carb, not so much
Yeah I mean they are knock off carbs, so it's hit and miss, several people have said they just return it for a new one and the 2nd new one is fine. YMMV
I appreciated your video. It, definitely helped me understand and work through my problem with connections and wire harness for the change out of the unit. Love the tip on the green light flash, info on the hours used.
Many Many thanks. I have a Kopor generator with the same engine that you have in your Honda EU2000i . And i couldn't find out what kind of engine it had. And thanks again! Now i can fix mine!
Honda did put a less reliable servo motor on some eu2000i units that is known to fail and cause problems. So while it is easier to swap the motor, it may transfer the problem to the new carb, and become verry difficult to diagnose. It's going to work most of the time, but something to be aware of.
@@IOCaneTech you'll appreciate what happened. I have two Hondas so we can run in parallel. One had a bad carburetor that was clogged, the other runs great. Not paying attention I replaced the good carburetor . I didn't realize my mistake until I was finishing up. So I had to use the carburetor I had just removed to replace the bad one in the other generator. Both generators are now running and your tutorial worked so well it worked for me twice....hahahahah
Thanks for this video. I rebuilt the carb on mine, but still hard to start. I will replace as you suggest. I got real nervous watching you remove those small screws over your backyard lawn. One sneeze and you're done for the day.🤧 Git yerself a magnetic parts tray! I keep two because I always have one filled with some project I haven't finished.
with the help of other TH-camrs I fixed my EY2000. First by cleaning the jet. no go. Then new jets. no go. Then new Carbs from Amazon. th EU200 now running well. I also have a EU2000 Companion. Both showed the hard starting and full choke to run. So everything I did twice. Then I found the Companion carb servo cable connector was different. Back to TH-cam and your solution worked perfectly. I only spent around 8 hours doing this including puting carbs in and out and in and out... When I was working I would get $200/hr. so I guess I should have bought new generators. But as a retired engineer, what else do I have to do? Rewrite the software?
The jets in the bottom bowl of mine were clean but it still didn't run right. Then I saw a video where there is a plastic part on top of the carb with an orifice ( jet) in it and that one was totally plugged and I couldn't even push a wire through it. I had a small micro drill and drilled it out . After that and spraying everything good with carb cleaner my generator runs fine now. I never would have known about that plastic part at top because only one video of a few I watched showed that part comes out for cleaning.
I'm in the process of swapping my carb as I watch your video. I paid around 70$ for my carb, but it was O.E new in the Box. The spring for the eco-throttle was F'd up & couldn't find anyone that sold the spring.
Hi wow thank you for the video. We have 3 of these on our charter boats to keep the batteries charged and tired of paying someone to change carbs out (well and he retired). I did my first on yesterday and the genny fires up but only runs at one slow speed and when i press the ECO throttle button now nothing changes. Does that sound like I missed something on the servo or could it be the throttle needle?
Not sure. Perhaps your Servo motor IS bad. It's what control the throttle speed and idles up the engine when needed. Ensure that the Servo motor can move easily and is not bound up, and that the spring returns it as needed. That's where I would start. I have seen a few bad carbs, but they usually don't create the issue you are describing.
There is something you can do about e15 and e10 just put your fuel in a clear container add a little bit of water let it sit for a couple of days and the water will separate from the gas taking the ethanol with it and your left with pure gas you can siphon off the top, pretty sure a little bit of extra emissions is better for the environment than tons of prematurely toasted equipment sitting in a land fill.
can you explain the spring loading on the servo. my servo has the spring but its not providing any resistance. looking down from above the servo should rotate counterclockwise with the loading? TY
The spring is so light that it's hard to tell it's doing anything with the tension in the servo motor. When the servo is powered on and the motor moves, it removes that tension. As a test, remove the motor assembly (2 bigger Phillips screws), then turn/push the lever by hand. When you let go, the spring should push it back. This simulates the force the spring has to deal with when it's all powered up. If the spring doesn't return it with the servo removed, then it may cause a problem in functioning.
some of us youtubers aren't pro's and don't notice a bad angle until after the video is already made . And may not going to redo the whole repair and video !
Just found this video. I have a very old eu1000i. I decided to see if it runs. After changing the oil and putting in fresh gas along with some Seafoam, it started right up. Unfortunately, it won't run with the choke in the run position. I am going to replace it with the help of your video, rather than attempt to clean/rebuild it. Did you need to adjust the carb at all, or did it just work out of the box? Thanks for the help!
I have not worked on a 1000, but the carb should be pretty much usable out of the box (Less the Servo Swap) However several people have reported getting bad carbs out of the box so.. I mean what do you expect for ULTRA cheap carbs :) Good luck...
@@IOCaneTech I finally installed the new carb. It works great! This used to be my dad's and it had not been operated since 2006. Thank you so much for your helpful video. I doubt if I would have come up with this solution on my own and thank you very much for the warning about the spring. One strange thing I found is that initially, I was still having issues running with the choke open and the engine would only run with the choke in the closed or start position. Just for fun, I switched it to eco mode and it ran fine with the choke open, but as soon as I turned eco mode off, it stopped. I decided to add more gas to the tank and keep trying. I have no idea what changed, but it started working and I verified eco mode was working properly by having it on and adding a load to the generator. For about $29 I have a $900 generator running that I hope to never have to use.
@@btschuster04 You should never run with the choke on, You only use the choke to get the engine running and possibly when the engine is a tad cold. But usually you turn on the choke on a cold engine, then start it, and then start slowly or quickly (Depending how it's reacting) turning the choke back off, until the choke is fully off and the engine is running. It's only used for cold engines or when a carb is REALLY messed up and will only run with the choke on which means the carb is having major issues. I actually bought one of these generators from someone who was selling it saying it was not running correctly, I went to meet up with them and they were trying to run it normally when the choke was on.. Don't be that person ;) LOL
@@IOCaneTech I misspoke then and have edited my reply. It is working with the choke in the run/open position. Previously, it would not work unless I had it in the start/closed position.
I replaced a carb exactly like your video, now it will run with the choke on but fuel is dumping continuously and the air vent has fuel is filling with fuel. This has me baffled.
Link in the description worked great for me th-cam.com/users/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqa2xsSG9xamZQcUtLQjlFNFlQVWlETzE2aTZpQXxBQ3Jtc0trN09weWlwVzFfWXRiM3B6ZU1kVXlFakFVNEx4MmdDQ0RXM2xxcWhTRTZnVFQ3WXJROUJKNVFaT1RwLWIzN0wtdlVpQVRPcjFOanFEb2dlV19uRkpUMHEtRWhOM3ZBODA5TGVvWC0wV3h0ay1tZDMzdw&q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2FB08P4T8RWL&v=ShY9VZ5Mr2M
@@IOCaneTech Thanks~~!~~ I'll get it on the way. On the (blink) 100 hour feature, if it does not blink, does it mean it has less than 100 hours. Anxious to try that since I didn't buy retail.
Perfectly. I did two for this customer, the first one I did was REALLY bad, so I thought to record the second one I did. Happy to report both are running just great :)
Back the idle adjust screw out until it no longer touches the throttle. While it’s running turn it in just till rpm starts to increase, then turn out 3/5 turn. Thats from Honda. The rpm can only be adjusted for eco throttle application. An air leak can also cause a high idle condition. ( bad gaskets) The other way to do it is screw it in from factory setting counting the turns until gently stopped. Then when youn you replace it , turn it in all the way and count the same amount of turns out.
Link is in the description. If you watch the video, you don't need to find the same electronics. That's why I made this video showing how to fix the generator without matching the electronics :)
If this helps you, cool deal. With the cover off of course. Exhaust on the Left,control panel to the right the eco-throttle faces between 3&4 o'clock atop the carb. The closest wire is white or tan. 2nd wire is Yellow. 3rd is Red or Pink if the color faded. The 4th wire(furthest back) is Blue. So 1st is the lighest color,2nd is the Yellow or Tan,3rd Red,4th Blue.
They would need to be synced with each other so the sine wave output of the AC is the same . With Honda you can do that with the connecting cables. Not sure if the other can do that or if the sync cables between different brands would be compatible ( my guess is not ).
@@IOCaneTech I replaced the carb with a new one and switched my servo to the old one because I don't have the square plug but I still have surging and no power .. if I stick a wood stick in where the servo action is and jam it wide open it runs fine just high and I assume burns more gas.. maybe it's not the servo but I just had it all apart again this morning .. and put back together ... When I get home 🏠 m doing another full teardown might even make a video on my channel for help
@@PopcornH3 Yeah if you have surging and no power I would suspect the Servo NOT is the issue. Sounds like the inverter or power generator are toast, and thus no power to the servo.
It is absolutely not safe to assume the Honda servo is good. There is a known issue with a particular variant of the OEM servos failing at high rates. I'm pretty sure there's a Honda service bulletin relating to the issues. It's definitely on a minority of these generators, but it's on enough of them to take it into consideration.
Ethanol is TRASH. They are NOT designed to run on that, but they do. There is no normal engine that has a carb, that should ever run Ethanol. Your Carb is literally open to the air and Ethanol is Extremely Hydroscopic. "A property of ethanol blends are that they are hygroscopic, meaning they absorb moisture from the air, raising the potential for phase separation during storage if the tank is vented to the atmosphere and is subject to condensation formation as a result of temperature change."
So much easier to pop the white plastic top off and unplug the servo. Also when you put the servo assembly back on top the throttle needs to wide open, just like it was when you removed it. You should get yourself a service manual before doing your next video.
@ The OEM servo fits in the Chinese mount. Pop the top of the factory carb and unplug the servo. That way you can take it to your bench to work on. Two screws and put the Honda servo in the Chinese carb. I’ve never unplugged the factory harness plug. They are both made in china. Makes life way easier. I very rarely ever replace the factory carb. New oring on the pilot jet and a good cleaning in my ultrasonic cleaner and good to go.
I have my generator for 12.1/2 years now and I never replaced any parts on it since I bought it. The secret to keeping your generator running good is simple. I run my generator every month for 15 minutes then pack it away until next month. I recently cleaned the carb, the main jet and the nozzle jet and bought a new gas bowl o-ring for the carb. I used carb cleaner and some compressed air and she is running like new. No need to buy a carb every year.
It's funny that I stumbled across this video because I did a small rebuild on my carb (main jet, emulsion tube and pilot jet) but the bowl was wrecked with rust patches and junk build up. I kept reading that the amazon carbs wouldn't match the wiring and I wondered if you could just reuse your old servo. I guess you answered that for me. Great video, clear, in focus and to the point. Great job and thanks!!!
Just replace my carburetor. I couldn't do it without your video. Thanks.
Awesome news!!!!
Thank you so much! I bought an Amazon replacement without knowing the connector would be a problem. This video saved the day!! Running like a champ!
Growing up in the South I know Shade Treein", and you Sir are that! Soon as you grabbed the tail of your shirt to clean off the gasket remnants I's like, "Yep, this is gonna work"
Shad tree mechanic always has a rag.
Who’s the man? You’re the man!! Thank you sir!!!
Thank you. You Tube University Professors are the best~!~
Thanks for the video. Just bought my Honda and the guy said he used once over two years so was selling it. I bet I have to change the carb. Thanks for your help.
Got me mine back up and running in 30 minutes. Scavenging the solenoid of the old one saved time and worked great. Of course beware of that springy thingy. Thanks!
Thank you brother for making a great instructional video. I bought the one off Amazon you had and was trying to figure out the electrical...Swapping over the electrical solenoid was the easiest way just like you described. I also used your starting fluid method for priming the bowl...and my honda eu2000 fired right up just like it was new. Great advise!
Excellent, all the info you need with no fluff
This was extremely helpful. I copied you pretty much exactly and my 10-year-old generator now runs again and sounds great. Thanks so much for your help
Followed the instructions, changed everything out, and had trouble starting. The idle screw needed to be adjusted so that it was more open, if that makes any sense. I watched another video that said to screw in your existing idle screw and count the number of turns, then do the same on the new screw. That seemed to work. I also did the full 100 hour service on it, spark plug, oil, filters at the same time. Once I did everything she started up like new.
My carb bowl was rusted up pretty good. Kept jamming up the flow. I'd clean it up and that would work for awhile, but it was time for a new carb.
I did the change over just as you demonstrate, but the new carb worked like shit. I wasn't getting output. Tried adjusting idle.....couldn't get r working.
Just now went back to the factory carb using the bowl from new carb. Works like a champ.
Just wanted to pass that along. This is a great video......the amazon carb, not so much
Yeah I mean they are knock off carbs, so it's hit and miss, several people have said they just return it for a new one and the 2nd new one is fine. YMMV
And the only reason I replaced the carb was cuz gaskets are $11 or so dollars, and carb is $30 some odd. All I needed was the gasket.
I appreciated your video. It, definitely helped me understand and work through my problem with connections and wire harness for the change out of the unit. Love the tip on the green light flash, info on the hours used.
Many Many thanks. I have a Kopor generator with the same engine that you have in your Honda EU2000i . And i couldn't find out what kind of engine it had. And thanks again! Now i can fix mine!
It’s a Chinese knock off in a kipoor
Honda did put a less reliable servo motor on some eu2000i units that is known to fail and cause problems. So while it is easier to swap the motor, it may transfer the problem to the new carb, and become verry difficult to diagnose.
It's going to work most of the time, but something to be aware of.
Worked like a charm, thanks for sharing and posting!
Love to hear that!! :)
@@IOCaneTech you'll appreciate what happened. I have two Hondas so we can run in parallel. One had a bad carburetor that was clogged, the other runs great. Not paying attention I replaced the good carburetor . I didn't realize my mistake until I was finishing up. So I had to use the carburetor I had just removed to replace the bad one in the other generator. Both generators are now running and your tutorial worked so well it worked for me twice....hahahahah
Thanks for this video. I rebuilt the carb on mine, but still hard to start. I will replace as you suggest.
I got real nervous watching you remove those small screws over your backyard lawn. One sneeze and you're done for the day.🤧 Git yerself a magnetic parts tray! I keep two because I always have one filled with some project I haven't finished.
This worked fabulously on my two machines.
What an awesome video, nice focus, good detail on the servo! Thank you! I am trying to save my client some $$$ and this is perfect.
with the help of other TH-camrs I fixed my EY2000. First by cleaning the jet. no go. Then new jets. no go. Then new Carbs from Amazon. th EU200 now running well. I also have a EU2000 Companion. Both showed the hard starting and full choke to run. So everything I did twice. Then I found the Companion carb servo cable connector was different. Back to TH-cam and your solution worked perfectly. I only spent around 8 hours doing this including puting carbs in and out and in and out... When I was working I would get $200/hr. so I guess I should have bought new generators. But as a retired engineer, what else do I have to do? Rewrite the software?
The jets in the bottom bowl of mine were clean but it still didn't run right. Then I saw a video where there is a plastic part on top of the carb with an orifice ( jet) in it and that one was totally plugged and I couldn't even push a wire through it. I had a small micro drill and drilled it out . After that and spraying everything good with carb cleaner my generator runs fine now. I never would have known about that plastic part at top because only one video of a few I watched showed that part comes out for cleaning.
I wish you would. That Android generator software is crap. Shoulda spent the extra $ for IOS.
I'm in the process of swapping my carb as I watch your video. I paid around 70$ for my carb, but it was O.E new in the Box. The spring for the eco-throttle was F'd up & couldn't find anyone that sold the spring.
Beautiful little machines these Honda's 🤙🎉
Thank you very much. Third helped a ton. You’re the man.
Hi wow thank you for the video. We have 3 of these on our charter boats to keep the batteries charged and tired of paying someone to change carbs out (well and he retired). I did my first on yesterday and the genny fires up but only runs at one slow speed and when i press the ECO throttle button now nothing changes. Does that sound like I missed something on the servo or could it be the throttle needle?
Not sure. Perhaps your Servo motor IS bad. It's what control the throttle speed and idles up the engine when needed. Ensure that the Servo motor can move easily and is not bound up, and that the spring returns it as needed. That's where I would start. I have seen a few bad carbs, but they usually don't create the issue you are describing.
There is something you can do about e15 and e10 just put your fuel in a clear container add a little bit of water let it sit for a couple of days and the water will separate from the gas taking the ethanol with it and your left with pure gas you can siphon off the top, pretty sure a little bit of extra emissions is better for the environment than tons of prematurely toasted equipment sitting in a land fill.
can you explain the spring loading on the servo. my servo has the spring but its not providing any resistance. looking down from above the servo should rotate counterclockwise with the loading? TY
The spring softens the transition from slow to fast idle.
The spring is so light that it's hard to tell it's doing anything with the tension in the servo motor. When the servo is powered on and the motor moves, it removes that tension.
As a test, remove the motor assembly (2 bigger Phillips screws), then turn/push the lever by hand. When you let go, the spring should push it back. This simulates the force the spring has to deal with when it's all powered up. If the spring doesn't return it with the servo removed, then it may cause a problem in functioning.
Thank you sir! Very good video!
Love the video mate but why lower the thing out of the view of the camera on arguably the most important step?
some of us youtubers aren't pro's and don't notice a bad angle until after the video is already made . And may not going to redo the whole repair and video !
This was super helpful , thanks!
Glad I could help :)
Just found this video. I have a very old eu1000i. I decided to see if it runs. After changing the oil and putting in fresh gas along with some Seafoam, it started right up. Unfortunately, it won't run with the choke in the run position. I am going to replace it with the help of your video, rather than attempt to clean/rebuild it. Did you need to adjust the carb at all, or did it just work out of the box? Thanks for the help!
I have not worked on a 1000, but the carb should be pretty much usable out of the box (Less the Servo Swap) However several people have reported getting bad carbs out of the box so.. I mean what do you expect for ULTRA cheap carbs :)
Good luck...
@@IOCaneTech I finally installed the new carb. It works great! This used to be my dad's and it had not been operated since 2006. Thank you so much for your helpful video. I doubt if I would have come up with this solution on my own and thank you very much for the warning about the spring. One strange thing I found is that initially, I was still having issues running with the choke open and the engine would only run with the choke in the closed or start position. Just for fun, I switched it to eco mode and it ran fine with the choke open, but as soon as I turned eco mode off, it stopped. I decided to add more gas to the tank and keep trying. I have no idea what changed, but it started working and I verified eco mode was working properly by having it on and adding a load to the generator. For about $29 I have a $900 generator running that I hope to never have to use.
@@btschuster04 You should never run with the choke on, You only use the choke to get the engine running and possibly when the engine is a tad cold.
But usually you turn on the choke on a cold engine, then start it, and then start slowly or quickly (Depending how it's reacting) turning the choke back off, until the choke is fully off and the engine is running. It's only used for cold engines or when a carb is REALLY messed up and will only run with the choke on which means the carb is having major issues.
I actually bought one of these generators from someone who was selling it saying it was not running correctly, I went to meet up with them and they were trying to run it normally when the choke was on.. Don't be that person ;) LOL
@@IOCaneTech I misspoke then and have edited my reply. It is working with the choke in the run/open position. Previously, it would not work unless I had it in the start/closed position.
@@btschuster04 Ahhh ok that makes more sense :)
I replaced a carb exactly like your video, now it will run with the choke on but fuel is dumping continuously and the air vent has fuel is filling with fuel. This has me baffled.
That is a stuck float valve inside the carb, return it for a new one
@@IOCaneTech will do, thank you
Great video~~!~~ Thanks for sharing. Now to pick which of the aftermarkets to order.
Link in the description worked great for me
th-cam.com/users/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqa2xsSG9xamZQcUtLQjlFNFlQVWlETzE2aTZpQXxBQ3Jtc0trN09weWlwVzFfWXRiM3B6ZU1kVXlFakFVNEx4MmdDQ0RXM2xxcWhTRTZnVFQ3WXJROUJKNVFaT1RwLWIzN0wtdlVpQVRPcjFOanFEb2dlV19uRkpUMHEtRWhOM3ZBODA5TGVvWC0wV3h0ay1tZDMzdw&q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2FB08P4T8RWL&v=ShY9VZ5Mr2M
@@IOCaneTech Thanks~~!~~ I'll get it on the way. On the (blink) 100 hour feature, if it does not blink, does it mean it has less than 100 hours. Anxious to try that since I didn't buy retail.
@@dougjohn45 Depends on the age. Very old units do not have this cool feature. :)
@@IOCaneTechis this compatible with eu 2200i?
@@stormstrike1845 I don't know as I don't own one of those. :(
the throttle motor on the old carb does not work with eco on or off on new carb. is there a way to adapt the new throttle motor to the harness ?
Define does "not work"?
The generator will not run at all on it's own without that Servo motor working correctly.
How’s it running? Any issues with that carburetor holding up? About to do the same
Perfectly. I did two for this customer, the first one I did was REALLY bad, so I thought to record the second one I did. Happy to report both are running just great :)
For starter fluid, I see you used Valvoline Extra Strength. Does the brand matter?
Not at all. Any starting fluid spray will do :)
Hey thanks for the video. Curious how the new carb is holding up?
Excellent like new :)
after installing, priming with starter fluid, motor started at higher rpm, gas poured out bowl tube and engine stalls. what did i do wrong?
Sounds like the float in the carb is stuck, I'd return it and get another one that one sounds defective.
Thanks. Ill do that.@@IOCaneTech
You were right! exchanged carg, runs like a champ! thanks so much!
@@davegeisler-b2l EXCELLENT!!!!!
Thanks for the video, complete guide for replace carburator en eu2200i Honda help me step by step do the work by my own. And save me money !!
So did the same replacement and now mine idels high any tips on what i did wrong
I mean the computer controls the idle, so it sounds like you may have other issues? Or you have the fuel saver / auto idle down off?
Back the idle adjust screw out until it no longer touches the throttle. While it’s running turn it in just till rpm starts to increase, then turn out 3/5 turn. Thats from Honda. The rpm can only be adjusted for eco throttle application.
An air leak can also cause a high idle condition. ( bad gaskets)
The other way to do it is screw it in from factory setting counting the turns until gently stopped. Then when youn you replace it , turn it in all the way and count the same amount of turns out.
So all the carbs for sale online have the wrong plug on them. No one sells one with the right plug? Wtf?
I haven't found one with the right connection. YMMV
Ikr. What a ripoff
Were did you find carburetor I can't find one with same electronic end or find a matching serial number thank you
Link is in the description.
If you watch the video, you don't need to find the same electronics. That's why I made this video showing how to fix the generator without matching the electronics :)
My servo is messed up. I need the right electronic hook up. Did you ever find one
It’s AllWAYS a hit and miss with these carbs
Don't waste money on cheap carb. They don't last more than a year.
Have diagram conector of new? I buy new for selenoide bad, conector it diferent. Thanks
If this helps you, cool deal. With the cover off of course. Exhaust on the Left,control panel to the right the eco-throttle faces between 3&4 o'clock atop the carb. The closest wire is white or tan. 2nd wire is Yellow. 3rd is Red or Pink if the color faded. The 4th wire(furthest back) is Blue. So 1st is the lighest color,2nd is the Yellow or Tan,3rd Red,4th Blue.
I guess I'm OCD but this drives me nuts that you didn't clean up the engine when you had everything exposed?
LOL what did you want cleaned? Anything that would affect performance, or just cosmetic LMAO :)
Anyone know of a reason not to pair the Honda with a predator or Yamaha for increase watt output?
They would need to be synced with each other so the sine wave output of the AC is the same . With Honda you can do that with the connecting cables. Not sure if the other can do that or if the sync cables between different brands would be compatible ( my guess is not ).
I think my servo is bad how do I test it ?
And what makes you think that?
@@IOCaneTech I replaced the carb with a new one and switched my servo to the old one because I don't have the square plug but I still have surging and no power .. if I stick a wood stick in where the servo action is and jam it wide open it runs fine just high and I assume burns more gas.. maybe it's not the servo but I just had it all apart again this morning .. and put back together ... When I get home 🏠 m doing another full teardown might even make a video on my channel for help
@@PopcornH3 Yeah if you have surging and no power I would suspect the Servo NOT is the issue.
Sounds like the inverter or power generator are toast, and thus no power to the servo.
It is absolutely not safe to assume the Honda servo is good. There is a known issue with a particular variant of the OEM servos failing at high rates.
I'm pretty sure there's a Honda service bulletin relating to the issues. It's definitely on a minority of these generators, but it's on enough of them to take it into consideration.
The ethanol should have no harsh affects since the eu2000i is designed to run on fuel that contains ethanol. Did you have any adjusting on the carb?
Ethanol is TRASH. They are NOT designed to run on that, but they do.
There is no normal engine that has a carb, that should ever run Ethanol.
Your Carb is literally open to the air and
Ethanol is Extremely Hydroscopic.
"A property of ethanol blends are that they are hygroscopic, meaning they absorb moisture from the air, raising the potential for phase separation during storage if the tank is vented to the atmosphere and is subject to condensation formation as a result of temperature change."
So much easier to pop the white plastic top off and unplug the servo. Also when you put the servo assembly back on top the throttle needs to wide open, just like it was when you removed it. You should get yourself a service manual before doing your next video.
Yes that could work too but then you get a MUCH more inferior chineese servo.. I'd rather have the OEM one for sure if it still works.
@ The OEM servo fits in the Chinese mount. Pop the top of the factory carb and unplug the servo. That way you can take it to your bench to work on. Two screws and put the Honda servo in the Chinese carb. I’ve never unplugged the factory harness plug. They are both made in china. Makes life way easier. I very rarely ever replace the factory carb. New oring on the pilot jet and a good cleaning in my ultrasonic cleaner and good to go.
@@6paxer Yeah I guess that works too.. More than one way to make thing work :)
It doesn't make sense to clean the carburetor anymore. Just get a new cheap one every year.
I see your point but keep the old ones because they may be needed and should be cleaned for back up
I have my generator for 12.1/2 years now and I never replaced any parts on it since I bought it. The secret to keeping your generator running good is simple. I run my generator every month for 15 minutes then pack it away until next month. I recently cleaned the carb, the main jet and the nozzle jet and bought a new gas bowl o-ring for the carb. I used carb cleaner and some compressed air and she is running like new. No need to buy a carb every year.
@@johnnybee1776 There is another plastic jet on top of carb - the one on mine was plugged and ran great after I cleaned it.
@@johnnybee1776…yes, it takes 5 minutes to clean the carb with cleaner and compressed air. Bowl gasket may need replacement sometimes.
Ethanol gas is a carburator killer.I use Ethanol free gas.A tad of Seafoam.Fires right up.
Unfortunately we are unable to get ethanol free fuel in CA :(
@@IOCaneTechI'm in Texas.We have a chain of stores that sell it.Yep.Great video.Thanks for sharing.