Marine Diesel Engines, Part 1 - Overview of the Raw Water System
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.พ. 2020
- GET MORE MARINE DIESEL ENGINE VIDEOS HERE: www.offcenterharbor.com/marin...
You can check out all of the videos available in our Marine Engines category.
Understanding the raw water cooling system of your boat's diesel engine will help you keep her running cool.
Keeping your marine diesel engine running cool is explained here: From the raw water inlet through the seacock, the strainer, and the heat exchanger and then out the wet exhaust, water from outside the boat circulates to keep the engine coolant cool.
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I'd like to thank you for saving me a great deal of time and money. I used to think that learning how to sail would be fun. However, after watching this video, the wind has been officially taken out of my sails.
The thing that keeps me up at night is not hearing that dreaded alarm go off, but the knowledge I inherited a boat without any such alarm!
educational value 10 out of 10, nice and easy for a novice like me, but covered a lot of depth: dress code 9 out of 10.
Showing all the components from inlet to outlet and ways in between was absolutely clutch. 10/10. Thank you.
An excellent overview of the exhaust system. Very detailed and well demonstrated, thank you!
Great explanation, loved the tidbit about “wear what your wife tells you” even if you’re about to work on a diesel engine 😂🫡
Thanks Captain for the valuable information 👍
Thank you great collection of system info.
I haven't been near a marine diesel in 30 years and I absolutely loved this.
I'm currently doing my coxswain and can not thank you enough! Have just jumped online to watch the other 9 videos. Very well done, thankyou!
Awesome video nice and clear thanks for the knowledge regards from New Zealand. I give the jersey 9.5
I love the cloths statement ! cheers
especially the first two minutes, very informational..
An excellent video for everyone who is interested in small boat engines.
AWESOME EXPLANATION!!!! CLEAR AND FRIENDLY !!!
Wow. thanks a lot for that from Thailand.
Perfect and very informative.....and appreciated!!
This is the best video on Diesel engines I have seen so far. It completely demystifies the water flow through the system. Thanks!!
Very much appreciate this video. Tracking all. TY.
Great video, helped a lot on my engine understanding on my sailboat purchase. I'm waiting for part two now!
Hi Matthew - glad it helped! There's lots more info in the other 5 parts of the series, as well as the rest of our Marine Engines category, which you can find here: www.offcenterharbor.com/category/engines/
Very very informative. Well explained, well detailed. Thanks for sharing knowledge
You should mention you always want to have two hose clamps on any hose beneath the waterline, particularly.
Thank you very much, as a car/truck mechanic learning boat power systems this has been invaluable information....
Glad it was helpful!
nice video
Very wise man, indeed.
Awesome, thanks
Great stuff. Videos like this are worth their weight in gold!!
Thanks, Larry! If you like this, we have hundreds of great videos at OffCenterHarbor.com, including the rest of this great 6-part Marine Diesel Engines series.
OffCenterHarbor Great I will definitely be paying a visit
Very helpful.
Very good !
Excellent video. Trying to work out why my Volvo KAMD 300 is steaming. Engineer thinks maybe raw water related, eg, impeller, exhaust elbow choked up, raw water strainer blocked. Might even check the seacock and the external bit you mentioned. Any thoughts?
Good video. One question though. You say coolant through exchanger tubes and raw water in box. Isn't it just the opposite? Plate w/ tubes looks like inlet and outlets match up to raw water side. Also cap seems to be no box unless internal passages lead to the plate.
Is there a Part Two?
1. I see an impeller blade bent the wrong direction. Is that an issue?
2. So in a cold climate the water is drained from the filter canister to keep it from freezing, but the hose is still full of water, which will freeze. Does water in the hose have to be thawed before the engine can be run? This doesn't make a lot of sense to me.
3. If you're evaluating an engine on a boat that still belongs to a seller, would you remove any anodes to check their condition or would that risk breaking off a piece that might end up in the pump or heat exchanger and do damage?
4. I don't know why a raw water pump gasket would shrink immediately up on cover removal, but then what do you do? You install a new gasket... or o-ring, if that's what's there and the existing looks old.
5. Brass anode plug or bronze plug? I've been told that brass is subject to dezincification and failure.
This is a great Introduction to the Diesel engines, I can’t find the other parts on the page here though.
Do you have any more links to the other videos?
There's a link to more videos in the description
Also you need to drain a lift muffler if the motor has been turned over for more than 30 seconds with out running , like for instance trying to start a cold motor or bleeding the injectors
I always thought/saw that the raw water injection point was on the other side of the 180° elbow so no raw salt water can go back into the motor/exaust valve.
Really interesting. Do you have part 2?
Hi Michael - you can get more of this series at the link in the description.
So the engine itself has enclosed cooling and the raw/sea water goes through the heat exchanger cooling the engine coolant basically acting like a car radiator? Some is then bled off to cool the exhaust. Is that right?
Can you show where all the zincs are on the Yanmar engines?
Great tips and great clothes!
Good video
Where is part 2 ?
You can find the full series at the link in the description!
1:28 HA!! Hey buddy, I'm married to her too! Seriously though, very informative, thank you.
Hi, two concerns...So with all that raw water flowing through the plastic muffler, what happens if that plastic muffler cracks? Next, my muffler (a large cylinder) has a drain plug way down in the bilge...WAY down. I'm kind of nervous contorting my body into the bilge to undo that bolt and re-secure it. Won't the winterizing antifreeze I run through protect the muffler sufficiently?
Hi Derek - those are reasonable concerns! And it'd probably be best if you had a marine mechanic check out your system if you're concerned. That said, our thoughts: Yes, plastic mufflers cracking would be very bad. Buy a good one, like a Vetus, and make sure you have easy access to your raw water seacock.
I’m pretty disappointed that there isn’t a part 2 or beyond that I can find
Hi James - You can find more of this series at the link in the description.
I can’t find video 2
You can find part 2 plus more boating videos at the link in the description of this video!
Where is part 2?
Click on the link in the description and you'll find the whole series.
Plastic mufflers are not a good idea. They melt in minutes if the motor is coolant-starved.
Great overview. I do like you on your knees in your good pants. I can see your wife throwing up her hands.😂
Hey us blue collar guys … we get dirty even in our good clothes.
Stellar! Crystal clear explanation