Hi. I have found the perfect fix for this motor shaft rattle. Dont look at the gear end of the motors, instead look at the rear where the shaft stick out. You simple attach an RC pinion gear to the rear shaft, pushing the shaft back to take up the slack - then tighten the grub screw on the gear. It locks the shaft so there is no more lateral moment. For the wheel with the sensor magnet on it, remove the bracket and circuit board, then you can remove the magnet sensor from the shaft as the glue is very flexible. be careful not to lose the magnet sensor as you pry it off. For the pinion gear on this shaft, if must be very small, so I cut the teeth from the shaft of the gear, leaving a small collar with the grub screw. Tighten this onto the shaft, same as the other motor, and job done - reassemble and the rattle noise is no more. Make sure the shaft of the motors still turn relatively freely, so they are not too (or over) tight. Put some teflon lube or oil onto the bearings of the motors, and while it is apart, take off the metal sleeve from each motor and replace with a heatsink on each motor. Can get them for RC car motors. Total cost about 20 to 30 bucks for 2 pinion gears and 2 heatsinks. My G29 wheel went from unusable in F1, as the rattle was excessive even when driving in a straight line, to after the fix where it is totally gone and the wheel performs exceptionally.
You really shouldn't have to do this though, it's something that they should fix or get right in the first place. Nice work though, you are very handy with the tools bro.
So I read in the comments of another video that that play or slop where the smaller gear moves back and forth is intentional. That play gives the plastic some wiggle room when both motors aren't exactly perfectly synced up. I don't know how true that comment was but I thought I should share it here too.
Well I've been having epic time trial battles with my roommate over the past two months using it countless hours and it still works fine. No noise and more response. It takes some patience to get the washers in that gap and to sand it down just right so that the gears still move freely. Make it so that there is a teeny tiny gap left, lube it a bit and reassemble the wheel. You dont have to open and close the wheel to fine adjust like in the solution with the drill and the screw.
Hi, I'm having the same problem with my G29, your method looks really promising. I've purchased the washer and springs and finished modding the spring. However, I can't install the spring cause I don't know how to disassemble the big gear (at 4:35) from the cover(at 6:00). Could you please help? I'd love to pay you for helping this... Thanks.
@@mousekenny Hey. Well I don't know if there is a difference to the G29 but in the G27 you just have to push it out hard enough because bearing is pressed in a bit. Make sure to also read the comment of @Take Better Fotos because that solution sounds very promising too and you wouldn't vave to take that cover off. Also if you have a stronger spring I would cut it just a bit shorter than the original... Maybe 1mm... It still gets preloaded enough. Good luck!
@@ledk1989 Thanks a lot for your reply! I'll try to press it harder. I guess there's no much difference cause I didn't see anywhere to unscrew or something. Yeah I've got stronger spring, 0.7mm exactly like you used in the video.
hi i have a problem with my g29, when there is the feedback hole turning to the right the steering wheel makes a loud noise of gears, as if it were creaking. if instead i turn to the left it is silent. Do you know by chance how to solve it? thanks
I want to lubricate the big main gear behind the wheel that connects with the 2 other gears behind the electric motors,so is it plastic?sould i use silicone lube?
or from back of motor u can add something witch sop movents,, that i will do,, from back of motor without open,, add some metals to hold in place,, can spin but not move forward :)
thought about that, too. Since it is a solution for pedals, why not here as well. maybe even with a rubber inlay, like the break pedal solution from logitech. The cut in half spring may bite into the plastic after a while, so i do not think it is a viable option. So ill try with rubber.
quxk question- how did you remove the case that has the spring pieces in, I thought it was press fitted to bearing ? many thanks in advance,, I have another Idea to try, but i need to remove that part. Also how did it hold up after?
I just had to press against the part where the wheel gets screwed on while holding the plastic case... But since you are the second guy that asks this I start to wonder if they do something different with the g29. Do you have a g29 in or a g27?
Much easier fix for all this.. put a small thin spacer(I used a nail head, it was perfect size for the hole under the spring) under the spring. on the other side of the spring(the housing itself) drill a small hole and put a screw into the hole. the screw hits the spacer and presses against the spring, turn the screw slowly while pushing on the shaft until the play is gone. Bye bye shaft play.. No more clackidy clack..
@@noelitooo4525 yes. it's more than 90% better. It's enjoyable now, for sure, let's say that. I haven't used it in awhile but I've been wanting to, so once I do, I'll update you again 👍
Funny that you ask this^^ I was actually thinking of trying that out too^^ You mean rubber sealing rings right? I think the hard part will be getting it over the small gear. If you find just the right thickness that doesn't tear when you squeeze it over the small gear and still has the right thickness and diameter it could be better than the plastic washers. Maybe I am gonna try this... and if you do so before me then let me know how it worked out^^
Hey. Well I have no washers left so first let me check if I find them online for you. The washers shouldn't be a problem but the spring in the right leght is.
@@paulius5017 So I checked delivery prices to UK with UPS and DPD and you'd pay way to much! But check out these links: Spring: de.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221000016945/?CategorySpec=00000005917%3a%3amig00000002023747%0900000005923%3a%3amig00000002070997 Washer: Part Number NN-0307-05 under this link: de.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221006204917/ And if you don't want to order from the internet: The washer is a standard Nylon washer used for M3 screws. You should find it everywhere. And the spring basically should just be a bit stronger than the one you take out. Same outer diameter and cut to same length. Hope that helps you out ;-) I'm sure you will succeed!
The ultimate fix would be for Logitech to stop reproducing the exact same steering wheel, giving it new names g25,g27,g29,923 open them up all exactly the same bs gear drive, they are to cheep to redesign with a proper belt drive.
Spending 400 bucks for then starting myself to fix their shit must be idiotic! And I am not an idiot! I will just send back this garbage after a week of playing with the sound off because this abject object annoying even my neighbors!
woow that is truly amazing
i was looking for such a video for ages
It did work perfectly in my case
Hi. I have found the perfect fix for this motor shaft rattle.
Dont look at the gear end of the motors, instead look at the rear where the shaft stick out. You simple attach an RC pinion gear to the rear shaft, pushing the shaft back to take up the slack - then tighten the grub screw on the gear. It locks the shaft so there is no more lateral moment. For the wheel with the sensor magnet on it, remove the bracket and circuit board, then you can remove the magnet sensor from the shaft as the glue is very flexible. be careful not to lose the magnet sensor as you pry it off. For the pinion gear on this shaft, if must be very small, so I cut the teeth from the shaft of the gear, leaving a small collar with the grub screw. Tighten this onto the shaft, same as the other motor, and job done - reassemble and the rattle noise is no more.
Make sure the shaft of the motors still turn relatively freely, so they are not too (or over) tight. Put some teflon lube or oil onto the bearings of the motors, and while it is apart, take off the metal sleeve from each motor and replace with a heatsink on each motor. Can get them for RC car motors. Total cost about 20 to 30 bucks for 2 pinion gears and 2 heatsinks.
My G29 wheel went from unusable in F1, as the rattle was excessive even when driving in a straight line, to after the fix where it is totally gone and the wheel performs exceptionally.
that is a neat idea, thank you for that... would you consider making a short video about that? :)
A Video would be great
What size are the rc pinion gears? (Pin size for the motors)
What about the sensor? Will it still work as it should?
@B I did this about a week ago with some mini adjusting Rings with grub screws.
i need help understanding this fix! really need it :(
this is a good idea!
in Australia we know that German engineering is the best in the world
thanks
You really shouldn't have to do this though, it's something that they should fix or get right in the first place. Nice work though, you are very handy with the tools bro.
i think the term is "axial freeplay" . Thanks for the video . Its the biggest flaw of this wheel
So I read in the comments of another video that that play or slop where the smaller gear moves back and forth is intentional. That play gives the plastic some wiggle room when both motors aren't exactly perfectly synced up. I don't know how true that comment was but I thought I should share it here too.
Well I've been having epic time trial battles with my roommate over the past two months using it countless hours and it still works fine. No noise and more response.
It takes some patience to get the washers in that gap and to sand it down just right so that the gears still move freely. Make it so that there is a teeny tiny gap left, lube it a bit and reassemble the wheel. You dont have to open and close the wheel to fine adjust like in the solution with the drill and the screw.
Hi, I'm having the same problem with my G29, your method looks really promising. I've purchased the washer and springs and finished modding the spring. However, I can't install the spring cause I don't know how to disassemble the big gear (at 4:35) from the cover(at 6:00). Could you please help? I'd love to pay you for helping this... Thanks.
@@mousekenny Hey. Well I don't know if there is a difference to the G29 but in the G27 you just have to push it out hard enough because bearing is pressed in a bit. Make sure to also read the comment of @Take Better Fotos because that solution sounds very promising too and you wouldn't vave to take that cover off. Also if you have a stronger spring I would cut it just a bit shorter than the original... Maybe 1mm... It still gets preloaded enough. Good luck!
@@ledk1989 Thanks a lot for your reply! I'll try to press it harder. I guess there's no much difference cause I didn't see anywhere to unscrew or something. Yeah I've got stronger spring, 0.7mm exactly like you used in the video.
hi i have a problem with my g29, when there is the feedback hole turning to the right the steering wheel makes a loud noise of gears, as if it were creaking. if instead i turn to the left it is silent. Do you know by chance how to solve it? thanks
I want to lubricate the big main gear behind the wheel that connects with the 2 other gears behind the electric motors,so is it plastic?sould i use silicone lube?
or from back of motor u can add something witch sop movents,, that i will do,, from back of motor without open,, add some metals to hold in place,, can spin but not move forward :)
so, the was there but you are using a little longer one?
What about putting a washer behind the spring to give the preload, instead of a longer spring . . .
thought about that, too. Since it is a solution for pedals, why not here as well.
maybe even with a rubber inlay, like the break pedal solution from logitech.
The cut in half spring may bite into the plastic after a while, so i do not think it is a viable option.
So ill try with rubber.
quxk question- how did you remove the case that has the spring pieces in, I thought it was press fitted to bearing ? many thanks in advance,, I have another Idea to try, but i need to remove that part. Also how did it hold up after?
I just had to press against the part where the wheel gets screwed on while holding the plastic case... But since you are the second guy that asks this I start to wonder if they do something different with the g29. Do you have a g29 in or a g27?
Solve the problem of infinite coils and does not roll inside the game, please
Much easier fix for all this.. put a small thin spacer(I used a nail head, it was perfect size for the hole under the spring) under the spring. on the other side of the spring(the housing itself) drill a small hole and put a screw into the hole. the screw hits the spacer and presses against the spring, turn the screw slowly while pushing on the shaft until the play is gone. Bye bye shaft play.. No more clackidy clack..
Did you do this and did it actually make it noise free 100%?
@@noelitooo4525 yes. it's more than 90% better. It's enjoyable now, for sure, let's say that. I haven't used it in awhile but I've been wanting to, so once I do, I'll update you again 👍
Do you know if using rubber rings would work? I've got a bunch of spare rubber rings and I'd like to try this.
Funny that you ask this^^ I was actually thinking of trying that out too^^ You mean rubber sealing rings right? I think the hard part will be getting it over the small gear. If you find just the right thickness that doesn't tear when you squeeze it over the small gear and still has the right thickness and diameter it could be better than the plastic washers. Maybe I am gonna try this... and if you do so before me then let me know how it worked out^^
Bro, you good? Sounds like you have the Rona.
Haha🙈 Nah I have a crooked nose which allways runs😅 Yeah it's so disturbing in that video... Should have done it on a better day
@@lucadondiego6994 glad it's just your nose, and not the Rona.
If youd be willing to send exact washers and same springs to uk, id pay :D :D
Hey. Well I have no washers left so first let me check if I find them online for you. The washers shouldn't be a problem but the spring in the right leght is.
I'd take me a lot of time to find everything exact for it. Don't wanna mess anything up and get the right parts
@@paulius5017 So I checked delivery prices to UK with UPS and DPD and you'd pay way to much! But check out these links:
Spring:
de.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221000016945/?CategorySpec=00000005917%3a%3amig00000002023747%0900000005923%3a%3amig00000002070997
Washer: Part Number NN-0307-05 under this link:
de.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221006204917/
And if you don't want to order from the internet: The washer is a standard Nylon washer used for M3 screws. You should find it everywhere. And the spring basically should just be a bit stronger than the one you take out. Same outer diameter and cut to same length.
Hope that helps you out ;-) I'm sure you will succeed!
Thanks man I'll have a look at this.
I've sent small parcels to Lithuania for like £5-£10,weird.
The ultimate fix would be for Logitech to stop reproducing the exact same steering wheel, giving it new names g25,g27,g29,923 open them up all exactly the same bs gear drive, they are to cheep to redesign with a proper belt drive.
Spending 400 bucks for then starting myself to fix their shit must be idiotic! And I am not an idiot! I will just send back this garbage after a week of playing with the sound off because this abject object annoying even my neighbors!