Peter, thanks so much for this very informative video!! I was able to do the whole repair in less than 20 mins. I have few tips to add to your great video. 1) Try to do this when the weather is warm outside (I did it when it was 90 degrees out) the warmth will make the rubber and plastic more malleable and reducing breakage. 2) Also spraying WD-40 or silicon spray around the rubber sealer when trying to remove the insert helps to, but your right its takes a little finesse to get it removed. 3) When reinstalling the pin, I drilled a 1/16" hole through the the end of the pin once it was pushed through and inserted a cotter pin through the hole so I wouldn't have to do this over again. 4) I also pushed the metal flat spring by the door hinge out a little to help assist opening. 5) I sprayed Teflon on the pin and the mounting holes. 6) Once you get the front of the hinge in the side panel then reconnect the fuel over flow super easy then snap in the back of the unit. Thanks again Peter you saved may hundreds of dollars!!
I took the wheel well off, loosened 3 nuts to allow filler neck to move freely, soooo much easier to remove and reinstall. I didn't have a cotter pin so I heated the tip of the plastic hinge pin and pounded it flat. A little silicone dielectric grease on hinge pin and it works great
Very helpful. Thank you. I did it just like the video, with 3 additions. I removed the fuel filler neck (approx.3"-4" long), tied a string to the motor/lock before reinstalling, and used a thin gauge aluminum wire to secure the spring after reinstalling it, in an effort to prevent a reoccurrence of failure. The string was used so that I could pull it through the assembly and not have to fish for the motor/lock after the assembly was reinstalled. As others have stated, removing the filler neck dramatically eased the removal and reinstallation of the entire assembly. Also, I recommend using a plastic putty knife rather than a screwdriver for assembly removal. They work better and won't scratch the paint. Videos like this are so valuable for those who aren't familiar with this particular repair. Thanks again. '14 GC Ltd, 3/10 difficulty, 15-20 mins, cost-$0.00.
Thank you. Fixed my GC. Took 15 minutes, however I did something a little different. Took a torch, heated up a flat blade screwdriver, and mushroomed the end of the pin so it was larger than the hole in the housing. I should never have to do this again now.
Thanks brother! I’ve been dealing with a loose spring for almost a year. I completely neglected the issue but seeing how simple it was through your video gave me the motivation to do it. Again thank Peter
Great video!!! I've been dealing with the loose door for nearly a year now. One day decided to google and see if this was a common issue and found your video. You've inspired me to try this DIY project, although I'm not "mechanically inclined at all ". I'll wait for warmer weather, since some comments have stated it might make the process easier. Also, I've noted some options in the comments that could help prevent this issue from reoccurring. Thanks again.
Thank you thank you for this video and all the great tips from people below. I just got a quote of $636 from a Jeep dealership to repair this issue. I will do it myself!
Thanks for the video. Made the repair super easy. I took the middle two clips from the fender liner out so I could reach up behind the part and push the clips down making getting the assembly out easier and not pry on the paint.
Thanks for the video! You probably just saved me 100 to 200! I was going to take mine into the shop to have it fixed but now I know it's just a spring that needs to be reset.
Thank you. I did this on my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it worked. Other videos tried to convince me to take off the wheel and go in from under. No thanks. Notes: I have a diesel, which has an extra spout for DEF. Remove the bottom two star screws, but just loosen the top one (do not remove) and slide it out. I also broke one of the tabs on the electric release box, but it went back and snapped in with just one. No drain tube on Grand Cherokee.
Really appreciate your video. Removed all the guess work and I was able to get the part installed pretty smoothly (without) breaking the tabs. For the tabs I pushed them down slowly with a small fathead screwdriver made for working on computers. To pry out the part I used a plastic hand pry bar tool made for changing bike tires. The hardest part was pulling that rubber neck past the gas nozzle to pull out the part, it just would not clear on the left side. I ended up using a dermal and carefully removed plastic material on that side and it came right out with little effort. New part went in so fast it was scary. Again thanks!
Had this problem. Been using my snow scraper handle to press button while I push on door to spring open. Just got a quotation from Jeep dealer for $235 in parts and 1.5 hours in labor...upwards of $500. Thank you!!!!!
Thanks for the video brotha! Took me about 15 minutes to fix mine on my 14 Durango Citadel. No more worryin at the pump if I can get the damn thing open.
Thank you so much for posting this!!! I went to the dealership yesterday and they wanted to charge me 70 for parts and 350 for labor. Yeah, no thanks I'm going to do it myself.
Thanks for the repair video. The guys at the Jeep dealer charged me $55 just to tell me what I already knew. And that it would be $360 for parts and labor to fix. I fixed it in 45 minutes, with $0 expense. I'm calling the dealer to request a refund. These guys have to know only the pin needed pushed back in with the spring...Wont use that dealer again. 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit.
My dealer said they’d have to run a diagnostic to “see” what the problem is after I showed them the issue that would cost $119, then that would be applied to the cost to fix it. 😑 I said I’ll just TH-cam it and do it myself. Rip off for sure.
Super helpful! Hardest part was just getting the housing out on the last pull when it was trapped between fuel filler and left side frame opening, but really anyone should be able to do this. I broke a clip also, just like you, but it seems to attach back again with just one just fine.
I love all your informative videos. I was watching this one and was like "Well, at least my R/T fuel door doesn't do THAT!" but then I got gas, and what do you know! I will be utilizing your tips once it gets warmer out. thank you again for your money saving videos!
wow mine failed two days ago,,,,dealer says he can schedule me in and proly 125...or?? You just saved my bank account and my frustration!! Many thanks!! jeep grand cherokee 2005
Getting ready to do this with my 15 Durango. Chrysler wanted $100.91 for the part and $436.88 for labor. Of course this isnt a warranty item because we have all "apparently" opened out fuel doors to far and its our fault!
Something I learned when I fixed mine was the end of the gas spout will twist off and gives you a extra few inches to make the removal and re installing the compartment a breeze
Thank you so much!! I just bought a 2015 durango. And it has this issue. I was gonna buy a whole new door. Now i know what i need to do to fix it. Thank you so much. U earned my sub and notifications!! Im gonna recommend and share your video to everyone!!
Thanks! I was able to repair mine the same way. One thing extra I did, there is a flat piece of metal that also acts like a spring that is adjacent to the hinge. After following the video, I found myself having to bend that piece of metal outward as well to give the door that extra push to release/open.
Thank you sir well appreciated I had to grind up the little release hook a teeny tiny bit for it to release smooth other than that u hit the nail on the head 👍 💪
Thanks for your great video. Well organized and worked for me. Very badly engineered by Dodge though. I could see this happening again. So I went to the hardware store to purchase a star washer that I was hoping to push over the bottom of the post to prevent it from coming undone again. I couldn’t find the right size so I purchased a cotter pin. I drilled a very small hole in the bottom of the post, close to the assembly body and inserted the cutter pin. I folded the ends to prevent it from coming out and completed the reassembly. So hopefully I won’t have to do this again.
Thank you for this video!! Received a quote today from the dealership to replace the door and housing. The price (wait for it) ........ $401.67 NOT including painting the freaking door cover!!!! Asked if they could get a price on the paint and give me a call back, so I could do my own research. Well, I will be repairing and won't need to paint the cover..... Paint the cover?!?! Really, when it slides off.... SMH
Thanks so much for this video, the dealer quoted me 350, but i will defiantly try this first. Do you have a video on the replacement of the lift gate motor shock?
Will you make a video for how to inspect and fix p0456 on the dodge Durango. Haven't really seen anything that has fixed my engine light but that is the code that I received. I will also check my door around the gas cap area like you did in the video
Thanks for this video. I thought this was my issue. Spring seemed to be working fine. I ended up sanding the plastic end of the door as it was getting wedged in there and not springing back when released. After sanding, it no longer wedges in there and will spring back.
Thank you for the video. I tried to pull the housing out. For some reason it would not come out. It was still attached on the left side. You’re thoughts
Very nice info thank you. I guess whenever you can it should be done inside a heated garage to let the plastic tab warm up a bit so it is more flexible when prying it.
This was really helpful, and I got to pulling out the housing. Unfortunately, the plastic pin snapped and now I can't seem to find where to find a replacement. Have you any suggestions? 2015 Dodge Durango Limited AWD.
Thank you Peter !!!!! You should be one of TH-cam Yuniversity's professor's 😁😁. I called my extended warranty company to see if it was covered as a defective part. NOT ! Again, thank you so much.
One issue I’m having every since I put a little gas in with a gas can to make it to a gas station when I go to fill up it just clicks like the tank is full. I can put gas in but that’s by barely pulling the trigger. I have a 2017 Dodge Durango GT. Any idea on what is wrong.
tried on my Grand Cherokee 2015. Could not remove the plastic ring around the fuel tube neck and stopped for fearing of breaking it. Also the releasing mechanism is held in place by the manual metal line which in my case does not allow me to push the mechanism away
@@trainerpool8919 I guess, last thing, stick long flat blade screwdriver where the lock is and try to wiggle it, maybe with some luck to unlatch that. If not just brake it off I guess, what else can you do.
I had to do one where the door hinge pin broke so I drilled a bit and drove a screw into it. There is like three hinge pin replacements that are solid metal that are made for ford f150s and/or Lincoln's that look like they should or might work. They look like same thing to me just stronger. Wanted to know if anyone has tried one?
There is an easier way of removing the assembly. First, twist the filler restriction assembly a quarter turn counterclockwise. Then pull it out towards you. This will give plenty of room for the unit to come out. Follow the rest of the video instructions being careful not to break the small plastic clip (as I did as well) holding the release mechanism.
If I can ask, does anyone know the part number or the name of the part? I'd like to order it online and Im having a hard time finding it. I have a 2014 JGC SRT. Thanks!
Nice video. My new 2018 R/T Durango has a problem where the button seem to be stuck. I put fuel for the first time and button worked and once I tried closing the door it would not shut. Got it closed but now button doesn't do anything.
Hi Peter - thanks for the helpful videos! I wonder if this would help when the fuel door gets frozen shut. My door doesn't flap around like that, but I don't think it pops open as wide as it seems to on yours, so I'm wondering if the spring still has an issue or has gone weak and doesn't have enough 'oomph' to open.
Appreciate the video. Just today the wife's Jeep GC had the same issue while I was refueling. I'll attack it in the morning. I may see if I can drill a small hole in the bottom end of the pin and install a cotter pin in hopes it won't walk upward again.
Loudpedal10 yes, I came here to say the same thing about adding a pin at the end. I hope they fixed this on my 18. SMH. And the way the metal door slides on is cheesy.
You need to twist and remove the nickle part of the neck. It screws out. It makes it a lot easier to remove. This is so important so you don't break anything and you won't fight the package out.
FYI, just finished this. My door was broken so I bought a new one for about $60 If it were to break again, I would probably just buy a new door again as the hardest part about the removal is not ripping the boot when you pull the old one out. I would just rip it off, pull it out, and install a new one. If the replacement door lasts 4 years like this one did, I don't anticipate needing to do this more than one more time. Also, the new doors are upgraded iterations of the part.
@@ericasolorio4164 I apologize, but I can't find the part number I used. I'd ask a dealership to reference the part to make sure you have the most recent part version.
Thanks so much for this video - I went wait, wait, STOP, STOP, STOP!! when you began to reassemble - it appeared to me that you forgot to re-attach the drain pipe before you inserted the whole thing back into the aperture.....
For those who don't want to do this yourselves....there is a STAR case on this with Dodge (S1708000003) that you can work with a dealership along with the last 8 of your VIN and they can repair it for free. Just an FYI.
Thanks so much Peter. Appreciate the time and effort!! One thing -- looks like your spring has been put back in the wrong position. I have a new replacement assembly from the dealership with the spring in the correct position. To correct, turn yours upside down-- and then the little semicircular bend goes on the other side of the plastic post . Here is another video with it in the correct position: th-cam.com/video/I7Z2qtGvieQ/w-d-xo.html It will still work as you have it but likely not as optimum as the correct position. Keep up the great work!!
@SuperPete it's part of your evap system my friend. You do not have a drain hose on your fuel tank or filler tube. But I've done things like this so much and I tensed up when I seen you missed it because I know how frustrating it is to get a job done and have to tare it all apart just to reattach something.
Update on this, they couldn’t order just a pin so they ordered a new housing assembly, 47$ out the door at the dealership. Not complaining at all. Now to modify the pin so it never comes loose again.
I must have pulled too hard on my filler door, it broke the plastic piece that holds the capless filler cap in and the cap came out with it. Trying to epoxy it back together tonight and fix it tomorrow, but not sure if it'll work. Any ideas on where to get a new one? The only thing I can find for a new one is a whole new filler neck for $500 :( no good
Peter, thanks so much for this very informative video!! I was able to do the whole repair in less than 20 mins. I have few tips to add to your great video.
1) Try to do this when the weather is warm outside (I did it when it was 90 degrees out) the warmth will make the rubber and plastic more malleable and reducing breakage.
2) Also spraying WD-40 or silicon spray around the rubber sealer when trying to remove the insert helps to, but your right its takes a little finesse to get it removed.
3) When reinstalling the pin, I drilled a 1/16" hole through the the end of the pin once it was pushed through and inserted a cotter pin through the hole so I wouldn't have to do this over again.
4) I also pushed the metal flat spring by the door hinge out a little to help assist opening.
5) I sprayed Teflon on the pin and the mounting holes.
6) Once you get the front of the hinge in the side panel then reconnect the fuel over flow super easy then snap in the back of the unit.
Thanks again Peter you saved may hundreds of dollars!!
Awesome
Can you do a video too! lol
I took the wheel well off, loosened 3 nuts to allow filler neck to move freely, soooo much easier to remove and reinstall. I didn't have a cotter pin so I heated the tip of the plastic hinge pin and pounded it flat. A little silicone dielectric grease on hinge pin and it works great
Very helpful. Thank you. I did it just like the video, with 3 additions. I removed the fuel filler neck (approx.3"-4" long), tied a string to the motor/lock before reinstalling, and used a thin gauge aluminum wire to secure the spring after reinstalling it, in an effort to prevent a reoccurrence of failure. The string was used so that I could pull it through the assembly and not have to fish for the motor/lock after the assembly was reinstalled. As others have stated, removing the filler neck dramatically eased the removal and reinstallation of the entire assembly. Also, I recommend using a plastic putty knife rather than a screwdriver for assembly removal. They work better and won't scratch the paint. Videos like this are so valuable for those who aren't familiar with this particular repair. Thanks again. '14 GC Ltd, 3/10 difficulty, 15-20 mins, cost-$0.00.
Thank you. Fixed my GC. Took 15 minutes, however I did something a little different. Took a torch, heated up a flat blade screwdriver, and mushroomed the end of the pin so it was larger than the hole in the housing. I should never have to do this again now.
Very nice
Great idea
Thanks brother! I’ve been dealing with a loose spring for almost a year. I completely neglected the issue but seeing how simple it was through your video gave me the motivation to do it. Again thank Peter
Great video!!! I've been dealing with the loose door for nearly a year now. One day decided to google and see if this was a common issue and found your video. You've inspired me to try this DIY project, although I'm not "mechanically inclined at all ". I'll wait for warmer weather, since some comments have stated it might make the process easier. Also, I've noted some options in the comments that could help prevent this issue from reoccurring. Thanks again.
Thank you thank you for this video and all the great tips from people below. I just got a quote of $636 from a Jeep dealership to repair this issue. I will do it myself!
Thanks for the video. Made the repair super easy. I took the middle two clips from the fender liner out so I could reach up behind the part and push the clips down making getting the assembly out easier and not pry on the paint.
Glad it helped
Thanks for the video! You probably just saved me 100 to 200! I was going to take mine into the shop to have it fixed but now I know it's just a spring that needs to be reset.
WOW, thank you for feedback.
Thank you. I did this on my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it worked. Other videos tried to convince me to take off the wheel and go in from under. No thanks. Notes: I have a diesel, which has an extra spout for DEF. Remove the bottom two star screws, but just loosen the top one (do not remove) and slide it out. I also broke one of the tabs on the electric release box, but it went back and snapped in with just one. No drain tube on Grand Cherokee.
Really appreciate your video. Removed all the guess work and I was able to get the part installed pretty smoothly (without) breaking the tabs. For the tabs I pushed them down slowly with a small fathead screwdriver made for working on computers. To pry out the part I used a plastic hand pry bar tool made for changing bike tires. The hardest part was pulling that rubber neck past the gas nozzle to pull out the part, it just would not clear on the left side. I ended up using a dermal and carefully removed plastic material on that side and it came right out with little effort. New part went in so fast it was scary. Again thanks!
I just bought a 2015 Dodge Durango and just noticed that it has that problem, thanks for sharing.
Had this problem. Been using my snow scraper handle to press button while I push on door to spring open. Just got a quotation from Jeep dealer for $235 in parts and 1.5 hours in labor...upwards of $500. Thank you!!!!!
I bought a new fuel assembly online in case of an unexpected problem Cost $40 no problem Great Video
Thanks for the video brotha! Took me about 15 minutes to fix mine on my 14 Durango Citadel. No more worryin at the pump if I can get the damn thing open.
Awesome! Thank you for feedback
This video was perfect. Showing how to remove the latch mechanism was the key. Thanks. Just did it on my 2016 Durango in about 20 total minutes
Thank you so much for posting this!!! I went to the dealership yesterday and they wanted to charge me 70 for parts and 350 for labor. Yeah, no thanks I'm going to do it myself.
Dealership are crooks. Never go there unless under warranty. Have fun!
Thanks for the repair video. The guys at the Jeep dealer charged me $55 just to tell me what I already knew. And that it would be $360 for parts and labor to fix. I fixed it in 45 minutes, with $0 expense. I'm calling the dealer to request a refund. These guys have to know only the pin needed pushed back in with the spring...Wont use that dealer again. 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit.
My dealer said they’d have to run a diagnostic to “see” what the problem is after I showed them the issue that would cost $119, then that would be applied to the cost to fix it. 😑 I said I’ll just TH-cam it and do it myself. Rip off for sure.
Super helpful! Hardest part was just getting the housing out on the last pull when it was trapped between fuel filler and left side frame opening, but really anyone should be able to do this. I broke a clip also, just like you, but it seems to attach back again with just one just fine.
I love all your informative videos. I was watching this one and was like "Well, at least my R/T fuel door doesn't do THAT!" but then I got gas, and what do you know! I will be utilizing your tips once it gets warmer out. thank you again for your money saving videos!
wow mine failed two days ago,,,,dealer says he can schedule me in and proly 125...or?? You just saved my bank account and my frustration!! Many thanks!! jeep grand cherokee 2005
Thanks for the video, fixed mine in about 20 minutes and didn’t break anything 😂😂
Very helpful. Fixed mine on my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Did in about 10-15 minutes
Getting ready to do this with my 15 Durango. Chrysler wanted $100.91 for the part and $436.88 for labor. Of course this isnt a warranty item because we have all "apparently" opened out fuel doors to far and its our fault!
Something I learned when I fixed mine was the end of the gas spout will twist off and gives you a extra few inches to make the removal and re installing the compartment a breeze
Unfortunately I broke my nozzle and after that I discovered you could twist it and take it off. Well I'll replace that later
Thank you so much!! I just bought a 2015 durango. And it has this issue. I was gonna buy a whole new door. Now i know what i need to do to fix it. Thank you so much. U earned my sub and notifications!! Im gonna recommend and share your video to everyone!!
Thanks! I was able to repair mine the same way. One thing extra I did, there is a flat piece of metal that also acts like a spring that is adjacent to the hinge. After following the video, I found myself having to bend that piece of metal outward as well to give the door that extra push to release/open.
Bro this totally Worked!! , Thanks, i didn't break the first clips because i used a small skinny flat screw driver . Thanks again!
Thank you sir well appreciated I had to grind up the little release hook a teeny tiny bit for it to release smooth other than that u hit the nail on the head 👍 💪
Thanks for your great video. Well organized and worked for me. Very badly engineered by Dodge though. I could see this happening again. So I went to the hardware store to purchase a star washer that I was hoping to push over the bottom of the post to prevent it from coming undone again. I couldn’t find the right size so I purchased a cotter pin. I drilled a very small hole in the bottom of the post, close to the assembly body and inserted the cutter pin. I folded the ends to prevent it from coming out and completed the reassembly. So hopefully I won’t have to do this again.
Great video! Hope you didn’t forget to reattach the drain tube. (That part wasn’t recorded. ) Appreciate the help.
Just had this problem on my 2016 Grand Cherokee .
Thanks for the video . I will try to follow those steps and fix it 👍🏻
Great presentation, interesting video, good work, my friend.
Thank you for this video!! Received a quote today from the dealership to replace the door and housing. The price (wait for it) ........ $401.67 NOT including painting the freaking door cover!!!! Asked if they could get a price on the paint and give me a call back, so I could do my own research. Well, I will be repairing and won't need to paint the cover..... Paint the cover?!?! Really, when it slides off.... SMH
Ouch...
@@SuperPete276 Exactly! But wait, there's more. Just received the total amount (drum roll).... $717.00.... They are nuts!! LOL
Thank you! Followed the instructions you gave and did it! It was a great Christmas present to a family friend! Thank you and Merry Christmas!
Looks simple I need to try this .
Any recalls for a 2022 Mopar model?
Thanks so much for this video, the dealer quoted me 350, but i will defiantly try this first. Do you have a video on the replacement of the lift gate motor shock?
Will you make a video for how to inspect and fix p0456 on the dodge Durango. Haven't really seen anything that has fixed my engine light but that is the code that I received. I will also check my door around the gas cap area like you did in the video
Thanks for this video. I thought this was my issue. Spring seemed to be working fine. I ended up sanding the plastic end of the door as it was getting wedged in there and not springing back when released. After sanding, it no longer wedges in there and will spring back.
Thanks Pete, and totally broke those tabs that were connected to the electric switch. Don't think there is a way to not break them
5:08 - Drain hose - "Put it somewhere so you don't forget about it". Then 6:03. Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha.
Thank you for the video. I tried to pull the housing out. For some reason it would not come out. It was still attached on the left side. You’re thoughts
Takes little force as I recall, but as you see in my video it should come out
Excellent video. Thank you for posting
Many thanks! Great work, video work and discussion.
Hopefully you reconnected the fuel drain tube!
Yes I did, thank you.
I need help .. my capless fuel cap broke . Idk how but it did . Can’t find a video on fixing it for a srt jeep Cherokee 2014
Sorry to hear that. If it's something serious you should take it to the shop at list have them look at it and give you estimate for repair.
I did. The dealership wants over $1000 because they have to replace the entire fuel neck. Common breakage item. Should be a recall.
@@joselanderos6950 i have the same problem...
Very nice info thank you. I guess whenever you can it should be done inside a heated garage to let the plastic tab warm up a bit so it is more flexible when prying it.
This was really helpful, and I got to pulling out the housing. Unfortunately, the plastic pin snapped and now I can't seem to find where to find a replacement. Have you any suggestions? 2015 Dodge Durango Limited AWD.
Were you ever able to find a replacement? I’m having this issue now and can’t find one anywhere.
Thank you Peter !!!!!
You should be one of TH-cam Yuniversity's professor's 😁😁.
I called my extended warranty company to see if it was covered as a defective part. NOT !
Again, thank you so much.
Awesome, thank you
Thanks. Going to give this a shot on my Grandsons Durango.... you did mention a drain tube when you removed the unit. What was it connected to?
I ripped a little of the rubber trying to fight it out will it be okay or replace it?
I don't think it can heart anything driving as is with small rip, if it was me I would not worry about it.
Thanks for the reply!
Thanks for sharing. I have the same problem with a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit.
Awesome, glad to help.
Me too where do I get the part from
What part?
One issue I’m having every since I put a little gas in with a gas can to make it to a gas station when I go to fill up it just clicks like the tank is full. I can put gas in but that’s by barely pulling the trigger. I have a 2017 Dodge Durango GT. Any idea on what is wrong.
Thank you for this video. I got a used Durango and they sent me a new gas thing but I hard to rip out the old one and had no idea how to do it.
tried on my Grand Cherokee 2015. Could not remove the plastic ring around the fuel tube neck and stopped for fearing of breaking it. Also the releasing mechanism is held in place by the manual metal line which in my case does not allow me to push the mechanism away
The button nor the emergency cord won't open my fuel door 2017 durango ...any help...I bought a new door assembly from the dealer already
Have some one pull on the door as you pull on the emergency open line or push the button to help release
Tried all of that , I even tried prying on the door... I may just have to break it since I have a replacement already
@@trainerpool8919 I guess, last thing, stick long flat blade screwdriver where the lock is and try to wiggle it, maybe with some luck to unlatch that. If not just brake it off I guess, what else can you do.
In your case maybe locking mechanism broke.
Finally, now I can fix mine. Thanks.
what year is ur ride? I have a 2018 gt
I had to do one where the door hinge pin broke so I drilled a bit and drove a screw into it. There is like three hinge pin replacements that are solid metal that are made for ford f150s and/or Lincoln's that look like they should or might work. They look like same thing to me just stronger. Wanted to know if anyone has tried one?
Thank You Peter for the video it`s very informative, I have Dodge Durango Limited 2015 so far no problem.
Alexander Belov Hi so do I and I have a question did yours come with a cover on the fuel port? Not a cap I know its capless like the one in the video
There is an easier way of removing the assembly. First, twist the filler restriction assembly a quarter turn counterclockwise. Then pull it out towards you. This will give plenty of room for the unit to come out. Follow the rest of the video instructions being careful not to break the small plastic clip (as I did as well) holding the release mechanism.
Thank u for this great video
If I can ask, does anyone know the part number or the name of the part? I'd like to order it online and Im having a hard time finding it. I have a 2014 JGC SRT. Thanks!
www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-housing-fuel-filler~68156453al.html
Nice video. My new 2018 R/T Durango has a problem where the button seem to be stuck. I put fuel for the first time and button worked and once I tried closing the door it would not shut. Got it closed but now button doesn't do anything.
Felipe Alvarez lolz you broke it don’t worry Issa usually probably
Excellent video man. Thanks for that. My fuel door I just noticed is slightly out of alignment. Do you know how to adjust it?
Daniel Hunsinger it's because of that pin that came out, take it a part out pin back in and you Shuld be good
Hi Peter - thanks for the helpful videos! I wonder if this would help when the fuel door gets frozen shut. My door doesn't flap around like that, but I don't think it pops open as wide as it seems to on yours, so I'm wondering if the spring still has an issue or has gone weak and doesn't have enough 'oomph' to open.
Thanks for saving me money Pete! $$$
Appreciate the video. Just today the wife's Jeep GC had the same issue while I was refueling. I'll attack it in the morning. I may see if I can drill a small hole in the bottom end of the pin and install a cotter pin in hopes it won't walk upward again.
Loudpedal10 yes, I came here to say the same thing about adding a pin at the end. I hope they fixed this on my 18. SMH. And the way the metal door slides on is cheesy.
You need to twist and remove the nickle part of the neck. It screws out. It makes it a lot easier to remove. This is so important so you don't break anything and you won't fight the package out.
Thank you for this video really helped !! 💪🏻👍🏼
Thank You
Did mine but had no hose on the back like urs
FYI, just finished this. My door was broken so I bought a new one for about $60 If it were to break again, I would probably just buy a new door again as the hardest part about the removal is not ripping the boot when you pull the old one out. I would just rip it off, pull it out, and install a new one. If the replacement door lasts 4 years like this one did, I don't anticipate needing to do this more than one more time. Also, the new doors are upgraded iterations of the part.
Do you have the part number? I found one online but not sure if includes the latch part that the guy broke in the video?
@@ericasolorio4164 I apologize, but I can't find the part number I used. I'd ask a dealership to reference the part to make sure you have the most recent part version.
Thanks so much for this video - I went wait, wait, STOP, STOP, STOP!! when you began to reassemble - it appeared to me that you forgot to re-attach the drain pipe before you inserted the whole thing back into the aperture.....
For those who don't want to do this yourselves....there is a STAR case on this with Dodge (S1708000003) that you can work with a dealership along with the last 8 of your VIN and they can repair it for free. Just an FYI.
Awesome new, Thank you Tim!
Sad news......I found out just a couple of days ago that this STAR case isn't in Dodge's system anymore so it's useless...........
Thank you ... simple issue.
Use a plastic knife not a screw driver to remove the inner fuel door and hinge assembly.
Thanks
thanks! very helpful
Awesome, Thanks! That door has always been a pain in the a$$ on our vehicle as well. Another project to add to the list.
Life saver, thanks man
Awesome!
Great video, dealer quoted me $270.
Dealer told me 500 plus to fix this exact issue
Great video
Thanks so much Peter. Appreciate the time and effort!!
One thing -- looks like your spring has been put back in the wrong position. I have a new replacement assembly from the dealership with the spring in the correct position. To correct, turn yours upside down-- and then the little semicircular bend goes on the other side of the plastic post . Here is another video with it in the correct position:
th-cam.com/video/I7Z2qtGvieQ/w-d-xo.html
It will still work as you have it but likely not as optimum as the correct position.
Keep up the great work!!
Great video! Very helpful
EVAP HOSE BRO EVAP HOSE! lol you forgot to put it back on!
its a drain hose and yes, I saw it, went back and put it on. thank you
@SuperPete it's part of your evap system my friend. You do not have a drain hose on your fuel tank or filler tube. But I've done things like this so much and I tensed up when I seen you missed it because I know how frustrating it is to get a job done and have to tare it all apart just to reattach something.
Thanks very much I have done it today :)
My local Dodge dealership was going to charge $250 to do this
Tried to do this and busted the pin holding the door to the housing. Be careful
find a nail that is about size of that pin and pout it in instead.
@@SuperPete276 that’s one way, I just ordered a new one
Update on this, they couldn’t order just a pin so they ordered a new housing assembly, 47$ out the door at the dealership. Not complaining at all. Now to modify the pin so it never comes loose again.
Thank you
Good shit
I must have pulled too hard on my filler door, it broke the plastic piece that holds the capless filler cap in and the cap came out with it. Trying to epoxy it back together tonight and fix it tomorrow, but not sure if it'll work. Any ideas on where to get a new one? The only thing I can find for a new one is a whole new filler neck for $500 :( no good
Gracias me salvaste jejeje saludos
Watching the metal screw driver being used to pry the pocket out is making me cringe😖 other then that good video🤘
They want to charge me almost $500. Not doing it
$55 to replace the entire housing. It’s an easy fix it yourself task
do not do it the way he did it take then wheel out and loosen the filler neck
Thank you