100 hour service makes sense. Thats how long this will take me 😅 The joke at my house is "its about a 1 hour job babe, so.....why dont you just take the kids and go to grandmas for the weekend"
I use a piece of 4 inch shrink wrap tape cut about 6 inches long. I place it so when it lets go, I can catch the drippings in a container. I did that on my 2nd engine after learning the hardway how much oil dripped from the first. I did not get a drip of oil anywhere other than the container on the 2nd. I use the same technique on the oil dran plug so it drips away from the extension case into the oil catch bucket.
As we've entered this post-covid era I'm finding that service in many of the trades is really subpar. It's not fair for me to cast shade at the servicing of outboards but it is a concern nevertheless. I've worked on engines my whole life and if there is a mistake to be made I'd rather do it myself 😄 Thanks for the video!
Thanks for taking the time for making such an in depth video. I was on the fence on taking my new Suzuki to the dealer or doing it myself for the first 100hr. Feeling confident after watching this in doing it myself. Have a good season!
What a GEM of an instructional video. Jody, the quality of your video is fine. The special value of it is due to the effort you make to be thorough in your comments, including the many small techniques you picked up over the years.. And it doesn't hurt - at all - to show us what problems you had, too. I would love to think my local mechanic would be so conscientious. But instead...we have your videos! Just excellent, excellent stuff. Be blessed, Brother.
I think as a serious boat owner you owe it to yourself to learn how to do as much as you can working on and servicing your equipment. This video helped me learn and understand thoroughly and it’s very much appreciated.
When I change my impeller I use the whole kit because that cup will have wear on it and soon as you start your motor it will wear to match the old cup so always put the water pump kit in and I’ve seen at least 25 people that have a heat problem they do what you do and not change cup and impeller that’s not a good practice to go half way on you service Change the cup every time .
Nice Job Bandit!!! Luba cation makes for smooth operation. Had to change water pump cause sucked sand/mud, looks like by your skeg you did the same. 5 Stars!
Jody, thank you for taking the time to make this video. It's outstanding. I'm doing the 100 hour service on a pair of DF150APs, and I've followed your instructions explicitly. Here in Florida, my Suzuki Dealer wanted $1,850 to do both motors - Yikes!. I purchased the genuine Suzuki parts and all the fluids for under $600 and decided to just dive-in myself (with your help - thanks again). I've watched and re-watched your video before each step and everything has gone smooth so far. If all goes well tomorrow, I should have both motors done.
A++ video. The only thing I'd do different is replace all the water pump parts that came with the kit. Another thing I'd inspect the water holes (the engine side) with a flashlight for stuck debree in the tubes. Often when an impeller is missing rubber pieces (not in your video) these pieces will lodge themselves in the tubes that feed the engine colling water.
Just knocked out dual DF200’s with 140hrs of PNW saltwater use. Great video. Enlisted my dad for a second hand. Great way to spend the day with him. That engine anode bolt was a life saver. Picked up at ACE Hardware. I ended up splurging on the Suzuki engine covers for winter dry storage. Very well made. Felt a little funny waxing the cowlings, but they do look great. Bought some wire brush hand drill attachments for getting in and cleaning away anode salt build up. Next time would bring a vacuum. Impeller was fine so reused, but replaced the metal bowl, plates and o ring. First one, I tried to hammer out and destroyed it. Second one, I slowly pulled the o ring around which eventually helps pop out the metal bowl. The most important take away was physically removing everything, cleaning and greasing. I’ve had a lower unit seized and it’s not fun. She is ready for spring. Sending you some beer money. Looking forward to your next video.
this was one of the best how to videos I've ever seen in the boating world!! Kudos and thank you so much!! I have two of the same motor. Saved me some much money!!!
Thanks a ton for the video Bayou Bandit. Last year I paid a local boat shop on the MS Gulf Coast $1200 for this service. I'll be doing it myself for the first time and parts + fluids came in under $400.
I see you have hydraulic steering. What brand and model number do you have. I see seastar on line for up to 150 hp. For around 1000 then up to 300hp is like 1800. Can I get away with 150 hp Unit?
Hi. Does the Lower Unit oil lubricate the gearbox? At 22:45, what part was being referred to (some alignment pin or something?) At 1:07:56, what is the name of the fitting you are injecting grease into? At 1:08:45, what is the name of the fitting you are injecting grease into? Is a fuel water separator located on the motor (in addition to the fuel water separator installed on boat fuel line)? If so, is this different to the Fuel Filter on motor? What is the part number for the genuine spark plugs? Cameron
So just a question, observation … the 3 plugs for the lower unit… couldn’t you fill from the 3rd top plug with the lower screwed in after draining and then still be able to see the oil level plug start to pour and then stop? Seems like it would be less messy and keep more gear oil in the unit.
Excellent and extremely informative! I own a DF250 although not exactly the same motor this video will be a great tool to assist me in my future servicing . Thank You !👍🏼🙌🏼
Thank YOU Very Much Sir for this amazing video. I have a 2021 Suzuki DF175AP and this video has prepared me to do the 12 Month Service on my own. I know putting the content together is not simple, easy nor fast. I do appreciate your time and investment for the sake of all Suzuki owners looking to save time and money. Time because if you're Suzuki Dealer is anything like mine, you wait and wait and wait. They sell a lot of boats although their Service Dept stinks.
Hey! What is the sequence with the key and battery? I see you still had the battery on to raise and lower it. But was the key in the ignition? In the on position?
Thanks for taking the time to make this. It is concise (a rarity here on YT) and complete. You explain things well without too much commentary. It was especially helpful for me in changing the thermostat.
Hi. Before you remove lower leg unit, do you need to put the motor in gear (from helm) to assist with shaft alignment? I recall reading something like this when I did this on an older 115Johnson outboard some years ago…. Cameron
I don't often watch videos that are an hour or more, but yours was worth every minute. Have been using a little grease on the threads and mating surfaces of aluminum parts for a long time. It's definitely worth taking that extra step. I like that you disassemble and reinstall everything with hand tools and not impact or air ratchets. Including all the OEM part numbers was also a big plus for anyone with a 200hp. Looking forward to your video on using Saltaway. Am a firm believer in flushing after every trip in salty water, but have never tried the product. Thanks for a thorough run down on 100 hr service.
Capt. Jody, Thanks for such a useful video. Very thorough. I just reached 10 hour breakin on my 2023 DF200AP yesterday. Was debating whether to do the 2 hour service myself. After watching your 20-hour and this 100-hour service videos, I am prepared to do those services myself. My DF200 replaced a 27 year old 175 HP mercury. Was rigged by a very nice Suzuki Dealer subcontractor our to southern Florida. I love the extra torque and quiet new Suzuki. Thanks again for all your great videos. I have been looking online to purchase a genuine Suzuki Service/Repair manual. Did you purchase one before launching into your 200-HP services? Tight lines. TR
Hey Bandit. You were right about that corrosion x. I just did my 50 hour service on twin 250APs. The gear shift linkage (next to the 2nd from front zerk fittings) on my starboard engine was showing serious signs of elements. Its exposed to the weather under under the plastic housing. I sprayed on the corrosion x, and used a nylon brush (from ace hardware) and was able to remove all the early stages of corrosion. BTW I had replied under different account a few weeks ago. I was right...doing this end of season maintenance in Maine is tough. Today was 37. 42 in the sun. Not like your short sleeve sunshine - ha ha. Of course I wasn't in the sun. I can see why it could cost big money to do this service. Very labor intensive. Took me all day today to do oil, grease fitting, an anodes on 2 engines. 2nd was faster than the first when I got going. I bought the service manual to help. Your vid was a great reference for the pregame. Definitely some differences on the 250AP vs what you showed. BTW service manual says tighten 3/4 of a turn after hand tight for the oil filter using the Suzuki oil wrench. Also one thing that bit me was removing the grease tube from the zerk fittings. One was stuck on there real well. I found solution online... push the hose fitting to one side and rotate the grease gun and hose 1 full turn. The host fitting releases easily from the zerk. Who knew? Thanks again for the great vid.
Just quoted $1500 for 150hr service on my df150 here in Texas. Looks like I'm going to dive in on my own and use this video for instructions. Really appreciate this tutorial!
WOW! That's a lot of hard-earned money brother! That is why I put this video out. I'm positive that you can do it yourself and save a ton of money! Thanks for your comment and good luck!
Hi , great video . Mine 200apx gets high temp at high rpms, and even for 2-3 mins at the highest rpms. Did anyone had the same problem? When I deaccelerate the temp drops again . Thermostat failure ? I have only 196 hours .
@@bayoubanditcharters yes no problem with that it’s normal . I faced that only at max rpm. For example at 5.500 I didn’t have this issue ? Are the thermostats too sensitive? Or might be a factory failure on the thermostat?
Possibly thermostat, there is two thermostat options for this motor with different temperatures. Could also be a water pressure valve issue (poppet valve). If it started after your 100 hour service, I would say wrong thermostat option?
@@bayoubanditcharters I had it also at the 100 hours , I never run the engine more than 4700 , it’s so powerful and people don’t want the spead . Will change a thermostat and see how it goes . Thanks !! Great job on videos again !!!
Amazing videos all of them on the maintenance. I’ve watched other videos on the Suzuki Outboard grease points. At the end you greased the first one the hard one. Isn’t that the gear box under the engine. Maintenance videos are great teach people it not just run and gun trailer maintenance or your Suzuki Maintenance
Good job Captain. This is the most in depth video I’ve seen. I’m 53 and have owned several boats. I always did the maintenance on them and I learned something new today so thank you.
I have a question. I'm about to do this service, my specifications show 8.5 liters which would be 9 quarts. Am I reading that wrong? Looking at my 20hr service which my dealer did I was charged for 8.5 quarts and the stick is dead on the money. So I honestly don't know which it is. Thanks man awesome video.
Amsoil is the best oil to run in your motor and use Rotela Dino the first year and the second year and from now on run Amsoil and your life will be long and easy .
Thanks for the video! Just did my first full service maintenance on my own. Your video was a huge assist. All went smooth till the lower unit drain plug wouldnt come out. Stripped it out. Drilled it, used EZ out & torch but finally got it! Thanks
Excellent Excellent video. One suggestion is if you re use your engine (or any) anodes, take a wire brush to them to expose new metal so they can work more efficiently before reinstalling them. I take them apart and use a bench grinder / wire wheel and it makes things fast and easy. If you don't have one just do them by hand.
Never put grease on the anode it relies on the metal to metal contact to do its job. Tiny bit of silicone grease on orings normal greas is petroleum based and will deteriorate the orings. I use silicone grease on my bolts as well since it is a firmer grease won't wash out over time and its water repelling. Even marine grease will absorb water. Same for the water pump its not a lubricating grease so won't work for wear parts but as a protectant I'm yet to find anything that beats it. Same grease silicone is dielectric grease so onto the spark plugs boots they go to prevent corrosion in the boots you cannot see. Bonus keeps the boots lubed and supple. Apart from the grease on the anodes i think this video it worth its time in gold.
@corneferreira7691 the only thing I grease (and use plenty of it is on any bolt...always. I never grease the anodes themselves because of the reasons you mentioned. You are correct brother.
I'm sorry, I misunderstood the instruction; hence, the comment sounded like you were applying grease to the contact surface of the anode holder, not just the bolt. @@jamesrahn8339
Hello from Finland! I have 175 APX Suzuki 2018 year model. It is now 800 hours on it and it run still well, but i think it is maybe wise to check valve clearance and adjust if needed. Can You make also a video about this valve adjustment please🤗...? I have aluminium boat 7,8*2,4 m center console, and this Suzuki is very fuel efficient and quiet motor. I will get Solas amita 3- plus 15,3*23 pitch prop 75 km/h ,40 knots. 5700 rpm. So far no problem with Zuke.
Hello there Finland! I would check at 1000 hours. First run a heavy de-carb mixture of 1 can of Sea Foam to 1/2 gal of gas. Run half of the mixture then let sit for 30 min. Then run the rest. Motor will smoke a lot while burning off all the carbon. This will allow the valves to seat properly, then check valve clearance. Thanks for your comment!
Excellent video, very well covered and useful. One thing I would add, I always check the plug gaps before I install. I know they’re supposed to be pre gapped, but as always, “trust, but verify”. Thanks for the great video a,d taking time to make it.
Thanks for the video- very informative and I referenced this to do my service. One question though- any advice for accessing the lower thermostat bolt? Top two were right and barely managed to break them but I can’t seem to get a wrench properly on the bottom bolt to break it loose. Any advice/tips appreciated.
Thank you so much for this video - I have watched your video over a dozen times this weekend as I did the full maintenance on my twin DF200A's. I would not have been able to tackle this without your video. I appreciate you! ---I got to thinking after I changed the spark plugs, that maybe I should have checked the gap on them? You didn't mention it in your video - what's your opinion on this?
Thanks brother, glad my videos were helpful! I have checked the gap on the new plugs several times and they were always within the Suzuki specs. (High end but in tolerance)So I didn’t talk about it in the video. Thanks for watching!
I too am very appreciative of this content. I’m going to try my first solo 100 hour service on my 2006 225 hp Suzuki. I have twins! Took many step by step notes. Are the parts the same?
Forgive the ignorant question, I have not worked on marine motors before, and am novice in other small engine repair, but my brain is telling me that greasing the bolts would lend itself to vibrating loose. Am I not thinking about that in the right way? Trying to better understand it, should I be thinking that the bolt head friction against it's base is what keeps it from backing out over time? I like the thought of never having bolts seize up, I just have a hard time grasping the logic. Not questioning the method by the way, just trying to better understand it so I don't screw it up by putting grease in the wrong place!
Same principle as using anti-seize. If you don’t have a barrier between dissimilar metals you will have issues with corrosion and bolts seizing up. I’ve never had any issues with bolts vibrating loose if torqued to the right specifications.
Incredible and informative video. I have a df115 and unfortunately there are not any videos as detailed as this. I’m hoping I can find all the components on mine and will be able to follow the same steps
Awesome video! The one question I had was why marine grease over anti sieze, and you answered that. I do have one question where the hell are you out of? Would love to book a trip but not sure where you are.
Is the warranty ok with doing the service yourself?? My yamaha dealer voided my warranty because I do my own servicing. Not a happy bunny, change of make next time.
I don't believe the dealer can void your warranty. Unless you bought some sort of extended warranty from the dealer itself, your warranty is with Yamaha and not the dealer. It sounds like they are just trying to bully you to pay them to do the service. Basically, if you use Yamaha parts and follow the recommended schedule, you will be fine.
@@mattreeves1779 Thanks for the reply, yes it annoyed me expecially as I have big diesels up to six hundred horsepower in my fishing boats and in fifty years of servicing them myself ive never had a serious break down. My Cummins did 40,000 miles in four years without a problem. Shame is the head mechanic there is my friend and in my mind the best outboard mechanic there is. Maybe try a Suzuki, they are happy to let me maintain it. Cheers.
Capt thanks for all the great info. Question, what can I expect to speed on a brand new 2024 200hp OB. I would do drive by wire. Also does everything come with the engine wire harness, prop and ignition or do I buy that separately? Really appreciate the reply, thanks.
@@bayoubanditcharters I'm in need of twins. I'll most likely be down powering since the 225's and 250' are 600 lbs+. I was told be the closest Suzuki dealer near me that the engines come with zero. Everything is ordered separately because of the size of any boat is unknown as well as the prop size needed. Looks like I'll in that $43k range with the current incentive and the 4-4-2 program. Because I have no other dealers near me I can't help but feel like I'm being scammed. Again, thanks for the replying.
my dealer told me that any and all work done and or any servicing to my 25 has to be done by an authorized Suzuki dealer/mechanic or it voids the warranty. Are we gaping the plugs before installing?????? Not trying to be that guy, you do a hell of a job.
That’s not what my dealer told me! You can do your own service work, but make sure you keep your recipe in case you ever have an issue. Some dealers will tell you that because that’s how they make there money on service work, lol! Yes always gap the plug s, usually they are pretty close.
@@bayoubanditcharters im sure you did gap them..i was just pokin at ya a little. My nearest dealer is 2hrs away so most of the parts will have be online purchases. Id rather do my servicing as well...at least i know....ya know. Tight lines
Correct, it’s not required every 100 hours, but unless you ask your dealer not to change it , they will. I wanted to make sure my shaft was greased properly, which it was not, and wanted to show people how to do it their self
Great video ! I have a new 250 and I am coming up on 100 hrs. I’m local to the same area as you are. Where did you happen to buy all your parts and oil ? I would like to find me a one stop shop to buy everything at once
Antisize is your best friend with diffrent types of metals they will not hull if you use they grey stuff that gets everywhere on your hands and face ! Ha Ha !!
can't understand how the designers never think about maintenance when they design the product, those often-need-replace parts like spark plugs and filters are in bad locations
Excellent video! I am getting ready to do my first 100 hr service on my DF175A Suzuki motor. Do you know if there is much of a difference between the DF200 and the DF175? This video will be a definite help, thank you!
And I always put vegetable oil on the impeller so that if it’s the end of the year and going to set for a few months it will not stick or dry start and it will not degrade your rubber impeller.
Cap, what grease did you use at the end of the video for the grease fittings & the tilt-trim top part? It looked like it was Yamalube but then it was red on those tilt rams. Just wanna confirm @bayou bandit charters Thank you!
@@bayoubanditcharters I just went through this entire video and I'm left wondering: When my motors are at their next 100hr service interval - what's required? I've got 1025hrs now on each of my motors. I got all new anodes (every single one), thermostats, water pressure valves, etc. Should I be replacing any belts or anything? I completed this entire video step-by-step and it was beyond helpful for a new suzuki owner. Thank you sir for the timestamps too! You should do a Redlyme or SaltAway video (how to care for long-term saltwater motors flushing them etc) One last thing I'll say, clean your throttle body! Mine was nasty so used some CRC cleaner and a toothbrush and got it cleaned up along with the metal screen.
@@bayoubanditcharters next time you do your maintenance check the hose clamps by the high pressure fuel filter and under the beauty cover. Mine rotted out but I caught them in time. Salt isn't nice to anything.
Awesome vid mate, well done! Just 1 question - do you check or know how to adjust the Throttle Position Sensor (if its adjustable?). Mine is only opening to 82% but im unsure if it can be adjusted like a vehicle. Thank You!
@bayoubanditcharters I felt like I was down on power so I bought the Suzuki SDM software & cable & logged some runs. At WOT it the log shows only 82.2%. From what my dealer(now retired) says it should be over 94% and may need adjusting. Was hoping to do it myself as next dealer is 6hrs away..
Not true. As long as you use Suzuki parts and keep your receipts you are good. Your dealer wants the service work because that’s where they make their money!
Great video, Jody... and very informative. Thanks for putting it out here...for us backyard mechanics. And, just FYI...I use a rubber strap wrench rather than a metal oil filter wrench....no damage to oil filter when using the rubber strap wrench...and yes...those oil filters are in an awkward place for big hands...ugh. I have a DF200, so I feel your pain. Thanks!
Great video Jody, I just bought the 200 for my bass boat. As you stated in your other video about why you went with Suzuki over Yamaha made complete since to me, besides my local dealers couldn't find a 200 Yamaha period. I did lose a little on the top end, but it wasn't a big deal to me. The old 2 stroke Yamaha on my Skeeter pushed me at 67-68 top end, now my top end is 60-62. At almost 70 years old that loss of 6-8 mph's isn't a factor anymore, but reliability is a key factor. Thanks again for calming my nerves.
Thanks brother, you will definitely enjoy the reliability and fuel efficiency of that motor. I definitely love mine! Thanks for your comment, I appreciate it!
Thanks for the great video! I changed the fuel filter but now the housing is not full after priming. It starts and run on the hose but wanted to know your thoughts before I run on the water. Thanks.
Great video. Seeing you turn the prop makes sense now as to what my dealer told me to do, that is to fill lower unit to the OIL plug instead of OIL LEVEL plug. It takes about that much more instead of spinning prop... Dealer said suzuki realized OIL not reaching upper part of gear in lower unit so fill to that level. But never mentioned spinning prop... so basically accomplish the same outcome I'd imagine... Again great video 👍
It may have been a long video, but it had my attention all the way through. I have a 2014 Suzuki DF175 and I want to start doing all the maintenance myself. What you just put out was invaluable to me. I totally appreciate the time and effort you put into this segment. This is going to save me a ton of money. You did an awesome job. You just gained a new subscriber. Thanks so much for sharing.
Hey, another great video. Glad to hear the prop spin was something possibly useful you. Another possibly unnecessary tip. I’ve heard contradicting opinions but I lean on the side of caution and spend the extra few $$$. Yamaha makes a specialized grease WR No2 that is for use on the driveshaft splines. Again, I’m sure it’s unnecessary but it’s something I do.
100 hour service makes sense. Thats how long this will take me 😅
The joke at my house is "its about a 1 hour job babe, so.....why dont you just take the kids and go to grandmas for the weekend"
Lol, yep!
I punch a hole in the oil filter with an awl to drain the oil before removing it, it's less messy this way. Nice video!
Be careful you don’t damage the spindle that way. Also once it has the hole it crumbles apart if the last person overtightened it
I use a piece of 4 inch shrink wrap tape cut about 6 inches long. I place it so when it lets go, I can catch the drippings in a container. I did that on my 2nd engine after learning the hardway how much oil dripped from the first. I did not get a drip of oil anywhere other than the container on the 2nd. I use the same technique on the oil dran plug so it drips away from the extension case into the oil catch bucket.
I love Suzuki motors and Honda’s too they the best warranty that I have yet to use on these motors .
As we've entered this post-covid era I'm finding that service in many of the trades is really subpar. It's not fair for me to cast shade at the servicing of outboards but it is a concern nevertheless. I've worked on engines my whole life and if there is a mistake to be made I'd rather do it myself 😄 Thanks for the video!
Agreed! Thanks for your comment!
Thanks for taking the time for making such an in depth video. I was on the fence on taking my new Suzuki to the dealer or doing it myself for the first 100hr. Feeling confident after watching this in doing it myself. Have a good season!
Your definitely welcome brother! I appreciate your comment!
wow - i've been changing lower unit oil for 30 years - never even considered spinning the prop. Thanks for the tip.
Any time brother!
I've used a tire pump with a special red tip fitting and pumped air through worked pretty dang good.
I love the fact that this video is long and detailed there should be more like this!
I appreciate it brother, happy to help!
What a GEM of an instructional video. Jody, the quality of your video is fine. The special value of it is due to the effort you make to be thorough in your comments, including the many small techniques you picked up over the years.. And it doesn't hurt - at all - to show us what problems you had, too. I would love to think my local mechanic would be so conscientious. But instead...we have your videos! Just excellent, excellent stuff. Be blessed, Brother.
Thanks for your comment brother, happy to help!
Thank you so much for this very helpful video and great advice.
Happy to help, thanks for your comment!
Thank you for the time and effort you put into your video!
Respectfully,
Thanks brother!
Thanks brother.
Happy to help!
I think as a serious boat owner you owe it to yourself to learn how to do as much as you can working on and servicing your equipment. This video helped me learn and understand thoroughly and it’s very much appreciated.
I agree, thanks brother!
I can change my impeller in about 15 mins on my OMC King Cobra
When I change my impeller I use the whole kit because that cup will have wear on it and soon as you start your motor it will wear to match the old cup so always put the water pump kit in and I’ve seen at least 25 people that have a heat problem they do what you do and not change cup and impeller that’s not a good practice to go half way on you service Change the cup every time .
Great video sir. Question I know part numbers aren't going to be the same but everything else should be about the same for the Suzuki df140.
Should be very similar!
Nice Job Bandit!!!
Luba cation makes for smooth operation.
Had to change water pump cause sucked sand/mud, looks like by your skeg you did the same.
5 Stars!
Outstanding explanation and a job well done. 👍 Thank you very much.
Thanks for the comment brother, happy to help!
Jody, thank you for taking the time to make this video. It's outstanding. I'm doing the 100 hour service on a pair of DF150APs, and I've followed your instructions explicitly. Here in Florida, my Suzuki Dealer wanted $1,850 to do both motors - Yikes!. I purchased the genuine Suzuki parts and all the fluids for under $600 and decided to just dive-in myself (with your help - thanks again). I've watched and re-watched your video before each step and everything has gone smooth so far. If all goes well tomorrow, I should have both motors done.
Your definitely welcome! Thanks for the comment!
Excellent video!! Love the detail!!
Thank you very much!
A++ video.
The only thing I'd do different is replace all the water pump parts that came with the kit. Another thing I'd inspect the water holes (the engine side) with a flashlight for stuck debree in the tubes. Often when an impeller is missing rubber pieces (not in your video) these pieces will lodge themselves in the tubes that feed the engine colling water.
Just knocked out dual DF200’s with 140hrs of PNW saltwater use. Great video. Enlisted my dad for a second hand. Great way to spend the day with him.
That engine anode bolt was a life saver. Picked up at ACE Hardware.
I ended up splurging on the Suzuki engine covers for winter dry storage. Very well made. Felt a little funny waxing the cowlings, but they do look great.
Bought some wire brush hand drill attachments for getting in and cleaning away anode salt build up. Next time would bring a vacuum.
Impeller was fine so reused, but replaced the metal bowl, plates and o ring. First one, I tried to hammer out and destroyed it. Second one, I slowly pulled the o ring around which eventually helps pop out the metal bowl.
The most important take away was physically removing everything, cleaning and greasing. I’ve had a lower unit seized and it’s not fun.
She is ready for spring. Sending you some beer money.
Looking forward to your next video.
Heck yeah brother! Man I appreciate you, thanks!! Glad I could help, Sundays video is on replacing anodes an how to flush your block.
this was one of the best how to videos I've ever seen in the boating world!! Kudos and thank you so much!! I have two of the same motor. Saved me some much money!!!
Thanks brother! I appreciate your comment, happy to help!
Thanks a ton for the video Bayou Bandit. Last year I paid a local boat shop on the MS Gulf Coast $1200 for this service. I'll be doing it myself for the first time and parts + fluids came in under $400.
Heck yeah brother, happy to help!
does the corrosion x dry and leave a permanent film or does it wash off ?
Yes it leaves a protective film
I see you have hydraulic steering. What brand and model number do you have. I see seastar on line for up to 150 hp. For around 1000 then up to 300hp is like 1800. Can I get away with 150 hp Unit?
I’m currently using the 150 version due to previously having a Honda 150. It works, but honestly not real well, lol! I plan on upgrading in the future
Hi.
Does the Lower Unit oil lubricate the gearbox?
At 22:45, what part was being referred to (some alignment pin or something?)
At 1:07:56, what is the name of the fitting you are injecting grease into?
At 1:08:45, what is the name of the fitting you are injecting grease into?
Is a fuel water separator located on the motor (in addition to the fuel water separator installed on boat fuel line)?
If so, is this different to the Fuel Filter on motor?
What is the part number for the genuine spark plugs?
Cameron
I have a 2023 Suzuki 75 HP is what you are doing is the same for my motor????+
Should be very similar
So just a question, observation … the 3 plugs for the lower unit… couldn’t you fill from the 3rd top plug with the lower screwed in after draining and then still be able to see the oil level plug start to pour and then stop? Seems like it would be less messy and keep more gear oil in the unit.
Yes you absolutely can. It will take longer to do because the air will escape slower, and you will have another plug seal to replace
Excellent and extremely informative! I own a DF250 although not exactly the same motor this video will be a great tool to assist me in my future servicing . Thank You !👍🏼🙌🏼
Thank YOU Very Much Sir for this amazing video. I have a 2021 Suzuki DF175AP and this video has prepared me to do the 12 Month Service on my own. I know putting the content together is not simple, easy nor fast. I do appreciate your time and investment for the sake of all Suzuki owners looking to save time and money. Time because if you're Suzuki Dealer is anything like mine, you wait and wait and wait. They sell a lot of boats although their Service Dept stinks.
Thank you very much for your comment! I definitely appreciate it and glad to help out!
Hey! What is the sequence with the key and battery? I see you still had the battery on to raise and lower it. But was the key in the ignition? In the on position?
Yes, you have to have the key on to raise or lower the motor from the helm.
Thanks for taking the time to make this. It is concise (a rarity here on YT) and complete. You explain things well without too much commentary. It was especially helpful for me in changing the thermostat.
Thanks for your comment and glad I could help!
That one grease fitting that is under the motor, by itself, what is that for? It was the first fitting you greased.
Hi.
Before you remove lower leg unit, do you need to put the motor in gear (from helm) to assist with shaft alignment?
I recall reading something like this when I did this on an older 115Johnson outboard some years ago….
Cameron
I’ve always done it in neutral and have never had any issues.
@@bayoubanditcharters ok thank you.
I don't often watch videos that are an hour or more, but yours was worth every minute. Have been using a little grease on the threads and mating surfaces of aluminum parts for a long time. It's definitely worth taking that extra step. I like that you disassemble and reinstall everything with hand tools and not impact or air ratchets. Including all the OEM part numbers was also a big plus for anyone with a 200hp. Looking forward to your video on using Saltaway. Am a firm believer in flushing after every trip in salty water, but have never tried the product. Thanks for a thorough run down on 100 hr service.
Yes sir! I really do appreciate your comment and happy to help. Thanks!
What was the cost for the complete maintenance 100 hours
I don’t remember exactly, but around $300 i believe.
Capt. Jody,
Thanks for such a useful video. Very thorough. I just reached 10 hour breakin on my 2023 DF200AP yesterday. Was debating whether to do the 2 hour service myself. After watching your 20-hour and this 100-hour service videos, I am prepared to do those services myself. My DF200 replaced a 27 year old 175 HP mercury. Was rigged by a very nice Suzuki Dealer subcontractor our to southern Florida. I love the extra torque and quiet new Suzuki.
Thanks again for all your great videos. I have been looking online to purchase a genuine Suzuki Service/Repair manual. Did you purchase one before launching into your 200-HP services? Tight lines.
TR
Thanks brother, I appreciate it!
What Gear Oil are you running? Also do you know if the parts are the same for the 150? thank you
Suzuki oil. Don't know about the 150
Hey Bandit. You were right about that corrosion x. I just did my 50 hour service on twin 250APs. The gear shift linkage (next to the 2nd from front zerk fittings) on my starboard engine was showing serious signs of elements. Its exposed to the weather under under the plastic housing. I sprayed on the corrosion x, and used a nylon brush (from ace hardware) and was able to remove all the early stages of corrosion. BTW I had replied under different account a few weeks ago. I was right...doing this end of season maintenance in Maine is tough. Today was 37. 42 in the sun. Not like your short sleeve sunshine - ha ha. Of course I wasn't in the sun. I can see why it could cost big money to do this service. Very labor intensive. Took me all day today to do oil, grease fitting, an anodes on 2 engines. 2nd was faster than the first when I got going. I bought the service manual to help. Your vid was a great reference for the pregame. Definitely some differences on the 250AP vs what you showed. BTW service manual says tighten 3/4 of a turn after hand tight for the oil filter using the Suzuki oil wrench. Also one thing that bit me was removing the grease tube from the zerk fittings. One was stuck on there real well. I found solution online... push the hose fitting to one side and rotate the grease gun and hose 1 full turn. The host fitting releases easily from the zerk. Who knew? Thanks again for the great vid.
Yes sir! Glad I could help.
Just quoted $1500 for 150hr service on my df150 here in Texas. Looks like I'm going to dive in on my own and use this video for instructions. Really appreciate this tutorial!
WOW! That's a lot of hard-earned money brother! That is why I put this video out. I'm positive that you can do it yourself and save a ton of money! Thanks for your comment and good luck!
@ThomasStaabUSA they do warranty their work. But still... 😬
Does the "Salt Away" come with a wire brush ?
No, just one I had laying around
Hi , great video . Mine 200apx gets high temp at high rpms, and even for 2-3 mins at the highest rpms. Did anyone had the same problem? When I deaccelerate the temp drops again . Thermostat failure ? I have only 196 hours .
Is the motor still peeing good at higher rpm,s?
@@bayoubanditcharters yes no problem with that it’s normal . I faced that only at max rpm. For example at 5.500 I didn’t have this issue ? Are the thermostats too sensitive? Or might be a factory failure on the thermostat?
Possibly thermostat, there is two thermostat options for this motor with different temperatures. Could also be a water pressure valve issue (poppet valve). If it started after your 100 hour service, I would say wrong thermostat option?
@@bayoubanditcharters I had it also at the 100 hours , I never run the engine more than 4700 , it’s so powerful and people don’t want the spead . Will change a thermostat and see how it goes . Thanks !! Great job on videos again !!!
You really need to run these motors wide open for at least 10 minutes every trip to clean out the carbon buildup
As long as maintenance is completed properly everything else is just symantics!
Amazing videos all of them on the maintenance. I’ve watched other videos on the Suzuki Outboard grease points. At the end you greased the first one the hard one. Isn’t that the gear box under the engine. Maintenance videos are great teach people it not just run and gun trailer maintenance or your Suzuki Maintenance
Good job Captain. This is the most in depth video I’ve seen. I’m 53 and have owned several boats. I always did the maintenance on them and I learned something new today so thank you.
Thanks brother, definitely appreciate it and glad to help!
Are the Steps the same for a 2021 df150?
Should be very similar.
I have a question. I'm about to do this service, my specifications show 8.5 liters which would be 9 quarts. Am I reading that wrong? Looking at my 20hr service which my dealer did I was charged for 8.5 quarts and the stick is dead on the money. So I honestly don't know which it is. Thanks man awesome video.
8.5-8.6
did you hit 200 hrs yet if so is there a video?
Almost at 300. 200 service is just another 100 hour service
Amsoil is the best oil to run in your motor and use Rotela Dino the first year and the second year and from now on run Amsoil and your life will be long and easy .
I can not for the life of me to find the engine oil drain plug and it’s on my 200 E-TEC ?
With Honda coming out with their new V 8 350 horse power Varoom!
For someone who just purchased a boat with Suzuki DF200APs, this video was exceptional. Subscribed!
Thanks for watching and subscribing brother!
Thanks for the video! Just did my first full service maintenance on my own. Your video was a huge assist.
All went smooth till the lower unit drain plug wouldnt come out. Stripped it out. Drilled it, used EZ out & torch but finally got it!
Thanks
Thanks brother, it’s always good to use an impact screwdriver for those if they are stubborn.
Love your content. Question: What does your boat weigh? What prop are you running? I’m considering the same engine. Thank you sir.
Good question. I’ve never actually weighed it! It’s definitely not the lightest with 3/16th bottom and sides and 32” sides with all my gear, lol!
Excellent Excellent video. One suggestion is if you re use your engine (or any) anodes, take a wire brush to them to expose new metal so they can work more efficiently before reinstalling them. I take them apart and use a bench grinder / wire wheel and it makes things fast and easy. If you don't have one just do them by hand.
Yes, I agree
Never put grease on the anode it relies on the metal to metal contact to do its job. Tiny bit of silicone grease on orings normal greas is petroleum based and will deteriorate the orings. I use silicone grease on my bolts as well since it is a firmer grease won't wash out over time and its water repelling. Even marine grease will absorb water.
Same for the water pump its not a lubricating grease so won't work for wear parts but as a protectant I'm yet to find anything that beats it. Same grease silicone is dielectric grease so onto the spark plugs boots they go to prevent corrosion in the boots you cannot see. Bonus keeps the boots lubed and supple.
Apart from the grease on the anodes i think this video it worth its time in gold.
@corneferreira7691 the only thing I grease (and use plenty of it is on any bolt...always. I never grease the anodes themselves because of the reasons you mentioned. You are correct brother.
I'm sorry, I misunderstood the instruction; hence, the comment sounded like you were applying grease to the contact surface of the anode holder, not just the bolt. @@jamesrahn8339
@@corneferreira7691so are you saying that you can or can’t use silicon grease on an impeller and water pump housing?
Hello from Finland! I have 175 APX Suzuki 2018 year model. It is now 800 hours on it and it run still well, but i think it is maybe wise to check valve clearance and adjust if needed. Can You make also a video about this valve adjustment please🤗...?
I have aluminium boat 7,8*2,4 m center console, and this Suzuki is very fuel efficient and quiet motor. I will get Solas amita 3- plus 15,3*23 pitch prop 75 km/h ,40 knots. 5700 rpm.
So far no problem with Zuke.
Hello there Finland! I would check at 1000 hours. First run a heavy de-carb mixture of 1 can of Sea Foam to 1/2 gal of gas. Run half of the mixture then let sit for 30 min. Then run the rest. Motor will smoke a lot while burning off all the carbon. This will allow the valves to seat properly, then check valve clearance. Thanks for your comment!
Excellent video, very well covered and useful. One thing I would add, I always check the plug gaps before I install.
I know they’re supposed to be pre gapped, but as always, “trust, but verify”. Thanks for the great video a,d taking time to make it.
Excellent point, thanks for your comment!
Thanks for the video- very informative and I referenced this to do my service.
One question though- any advice for accessing the lower thermostat bolt?
Top two were right and barely managed to break them but I can’t seem to get a wrench properly on the bottom bolt to break it loose.
Any advice/tips appreciated.
Man that bottom bolt is a pain in the butt! Just a slow go with an open end wrench
Thank you so much for this video - I have watched your video over a dozen times this weekend as I did the full maintenance on my twin DF200A's. I would not have been able to tackle this without your video. I appreciate you! ---I got to thinking after I changed the spark plugs, that maybe I should have checked the gap on them? You didn't mention it in your video - what's your opinion on this?
Thanks brother, glad my videos were helpful! I have checked the gap on the new plugs several times and they were always within the Suzuki specs. (High end but in tolerance)So I didn’t talk about it in the video. Thanks for watching!
I too am very appreciative of this content. I’m going to try my first solo 100 hour service on my 2006 225 hp Suzuki. I have twins! Took many step by step notes. Are the parts the same?
Thanks! Should be very similar.
Don't forget to grease fitting under the shift actuator
Never heard of that when you pump your oil in from the bottom.
You wanted to make the best video of the 100 service and you did it. Thanks for the information!
Thanks brother! Definitely appreciate it!
Forgive the ignorant question, I have not worked on marine motors before, and am novice in other small engine repair, but my brain is telling me that greasing the bolts would lend itself to vibrating loose. Am I not thinking about that in the right way? Trying to better understand it, should I be thinking that the bolt head friction against it's base is what keeps it from backing out over time? I like the thought of never having bolts seize up, I just have a hard time grasping the logic. Not questioning the method by the way, just trying to better understand it so I don't screw it up by putting grease in the wrong place!
Same principle as using anti-seize. If you don’t have a barrier between dissimilar metals you will have issues with corrosion and bolts seizing up. I’ve never had any issues with bolts vibrating loose if torqued to the right specifications.
@@bayoubanditcharters thank you for the reply!
If taking it to a mechanic to get the 100hr service, how much should the cost be?
Great detailed video, I’m just not that mechanically inclined.
Hard to say depending on what area you live, but probably somewhere between $600-$800
Your channel should be required viewing for all new outboard boat owners!
I would be an idiot if I didn’t Subscribe.
Thanks brother, I appreciate it! Happy to help!
Incredible and informative video. I have a df115 and unfortunately there are not any videos as detailed as this. I’m hoping I can find all the components on mine and will be able to follow the same steps
It should be similar, thanks for commenting!
Great Video !!! I just did my 100 service and this helped me along the way, appreciate the attention to detail!!
Thanks brother! Always happy to help!
Awesome video! The one question I had was why marine grease over anti sieze, and you answered that. I do have one question where the hell are you out of? Would love to book a trip but not sure where you are.
Thanks brother! Mobile Alabama! Give me a call and we’ll get you set up! bayoubanditcharters.godaddysites.com/
Is that a NGK R plug or just a normal NGK thank you
Is the warranty ok with doing the service yourself?? My yamaha dealer voided my warranty because I do my own servicing. Not a happy bunny, change of make next time.
Yes, just keep your recites and get your parts from your local dealer. Warranty will not be an issue
I don't believe the dealer can void your warranty. Unless you bought some sort of extended warranty from the dealer itself, your warranty is with Yamaha and not the dealer. It sounds like they are just trying to bully you to pay them to do the service. Basically, if you use Yamaha parts and follow the recommended schedule, you will be fine.
@@mattreeves1779 Thanks for the reply, yes it annoyed me expecially as I have big diesels up to six hundred horsepower in my fishing boats and in fifty years of servicing them myself ive never had a serious break down. My Cummins did 40,000 miles in four years without a problem. Shame is the head mechanic there is my friend and in my mind the best outboard mechanic there is. Maybe try a Suzuki, they are happy to let me maintain it. Cheers.
What motor muffs do you use to run engine? Which ones do you recommend because I haven’t found any that work thanks
Be sure to use the round ones. I got mine from Amazon.
use a strap wrench with a rubber strap to tighten your oil filter. easy fix
Agreed
Great video! What size allen wrench for the motor oil drain plug?
It’s in your tool kit that comes with the motor, I believe it’s a 10mm
Capt thanks for all the great info. Question, what can I expect to speed on a brand new 2024 200hp OB. I would do drive by wire. Also does everything come with the engine wire harness, prop and ignition or do I buy that separately? Really appreciate the reply, thanks.
Everything comes with the motor ready to go! Expect to pay $21-23k
@@bayoubanditcharters I'm in need of twins. I'll most likely be down powering since the 225's and 250' are 600 lbs+. I was told be the closest Suzuki dealer near me that the engines come with zero. Everything is ordered separately because of the size of any boat is unknown as well as the prop size needed. Looks like I'll in that $43k range with the current incentive and the 4-4-2 program. Because I have no other dealers near me I can't help but feel like I'm being scammed. Again, thanks for the replying.
Great video, I imagine when you do your hair in the morning, marine grease may be involved!
Lol, definitely brother!
cant take the plastic off the mid section where the two come together Im afraid its going to break
Are all the screws out?
@@bayoubanditcharters i swear I believe they are
my dealer told me that any and all work done and or any servicing to my 25 has to be done by an authorized Suzuki dealer/mechanic or it voids the warranty. Are we gaping the plugs before installing?????? Not trying to be that guy, you do a hell of a job.
That’s not what my dealer told me! You can do your own service work, but make sure you keep your recipe in case you ever have an issue. Some dealers will tell you that because that’s how they make there money on service work, lol! Yes always gap the plug s, usually they are pretty close.
@@bayoubanditcharters im sure you did gap them..i was just pokin at ya a little. My nearest dealer is 2hrs away so most of the parts will have be online purchases. Id rather do my servicing as well...at least i know....ya know. Tight lines
A new impeller is not 100-hour service but does not hurt
Correct, it’s not required every 100 hours, but unless you ask your dealer not to change it , they will. I wanted to make sure my shaft was greased properly, which it was not, and wanted to show people how to do it their self
I just changed my impeller kit last fall it’s a 07 motor changed impeller 2023 and still looked like new .
Great video ! I have a new 250 and I am coming up on 100 hrs. I’m local to the same area as you are. Where did you happen to buy all your parts and oil ? I would like to find me a one stop shop to buy everything at once
L &M Marine in Stockton
@@bayoubanditcharters thank you sir
This is such a fantastic step-by-step video. Thank you!
Thanks for commenting brother! Happy to help!
Antisize is your best friend with diffrent types of metals they will not hull if you use they grey stuff that gets everywhere on your hands and face ! Ha Ha !!
can't understand how the designers never think about maintenance when they design the product, those often-need-replace parts like spark plugs and filters are in bad locations
What size prop are you using amd how many miles are you getting
4 blade Powertec 20 pitch
Excellent video! I am getting ready to do my first 100 hr service on my DF175A Suzuki motor. Do you know if there is much of a difference between the DF200 and the DF175? This video will be a definite help, thank you!
Thanks brother! They should be very similar.
And I always put vegetable oil on the impeller so that if it’s the end of the year and going to set for a few months it will not stick or dry start and it will not degrade your rubber impeller.
Such an amazing video!
Always cover up the throttle before working on the thermostat.
Cap, what grease did you use at the end of the video for the grease fittings & the tilt-trim top part? It looked like it was Yamalube but then it was red on those tilt rams. Just wanna confirm @bayou bandit charters Thank you!
Yamalube or Lucus red and tacky. Any quality marine grease will be fine.
@@bayoubanditcharters I just went through this entire video and I'm left wondering: When my motors are at their next 100hr service interval - what's required? I've got 1025hrs now on each of my motors. I got all new anodes (every single one), thermostats, water pressure valves, etc. Should I be replacing any belts or anything? I completed this entire video step-by-step and it was beyond helpful for a new suzuki owner. Thank you sir for the timestamps too! You should do a Redlyme or SaltAway video (how to care for long-term saltwater motors flushing them etc)
One last thing I'll say, clean your throttle body! Mine was nasty so used some CRC cleaner and a toothbrush and got it cleaned up along with the metal screen.
I sure do wish they made Allen bolts for the plugs and the little drag I will have you can’t measure!
Also curious if you cut yoir oil filters open amd look at them. I run a pair of 2015 DF200As 500 hoirs or so. Fairly new to me.
No sir, I don’t
@@bayoubanditcharters next time you do your maintenance check the hose clamps by the high pressure fuel filter and under the beauty cover. Mine rotted out but I caught them in time. Salt isn't nice to anything.
Awesome vid mate, well done! Just 1 question - do you check or know how to adjust the Throttle Position Sensor (if its adjustable?). Mine is only opening to 82% but im unsure if it can be adjusted like a vehicle.
Thank You!
How do you know it's only opening to 82%?
@bayoubanditcharters I felt like I was down on power so I bought the Suzuki SDM software & cable & logged some runs. At WOT it the log shows only 82.2%. From what my dealer(now retired) says it should be over 94% and may need adjusting. Was hoping to do it myself as next dealer is 6hrs away..
Ok, sorry I can’t help you with that one?
Do you put grease on the oil plug screw threads and lower unit plugs screw threads when putting back in after refilling?
I don’t due to the threads already having oil in them, but you could if you wanted too.
@@bayoubanditchartersthanks that was my thought as well!
In the service manual it says that you should pull the shift actuator fuse 15 amp before you drop the lower unit
My dealer told me the 100 hr service should be done absolutely by a suzuki dealer or it would void your warranty
Not true. As long as you use Suzuki parts and keep your receipts you are good. Your dealer wants the service work because that’s where they make their money!
@@bayoubanditcharters makes sense. But Ill take their word for it. Thanks for the information though brother!
Great video, Jody... and very informative. Thanks for putting it out here...for us backyard mechanics. And, just FYI...I use a rubber strap wrench rather than a metal oil filter wrench....no damage to oil filter when using the rubber strap wrench...and yes...those oil filters are in an awkward place for big hands...ugh. I have a DF200, so I feel your pain. Thanks!
Thanks brother! I appreciate the comment!
Great video Jody, I just bought the 200 for my bass boat. As you stated in your other video about why you went with Suzuki over Yamaha made complete since to me, besides my local dealers couldn't find a 200 Yamaha period. I did lose a little on the top end, but it wasn't a big deal to me. The old 2 stroke Yamaha on my Skeeter pushed me at 67-68 top end, now my top end is 60-62. At almost 70 years old that loss of 6-8 mph's isn't a factor anymore, but reliability is a key factor. Thanks again for calming my nerves.
Thanks brother, you will definitely enjoy the reliability and fuel efficiency of that motor. I definitely love mine! Thanks for your comment, I appreciate it!
Thanks for the great video! I changed the fuel filter but now the housing is not full after priming. It starts and run on the hose but wanted to know your thoughts before I run on the water. Thanks.
Don’t know your exact setup, but you should be fine
@@bayoubanditcharters it’s a 2023 Suzuki 200
@@bayoubanditcharters every thing worked good out on the water.
Great video.
Seeing you turn the prop makes sense now as to what my dealer told me to do, that is to fill lower unit to the OIL plug instead of OIL LEVEL plug. It takes about that much more instead of spinning prop...
Dealer said suzuki realized OIL not reaching upper part of gear in lower unit so fill to that level. But never mentioned spinning prop... so basically accomplish the same outcome I'd imagine...
Again great video 👍
Yes sir, thanks for your comment brother!
It may have been a long video, but it had my attention all the way through. I have a 2014 Suzuki DF175 and I want to start doing all the maintenance myself. What you just put out was invaluable to me. I totally appreciate the time and effort you put into this segment. This is going to save me a ton of money. You did an awesome job. You just gained a new subscriber. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thanks so much for your comment brother! Happy to help!
Hey, another great video. Glad to hear the prop spin was something possibly useful you. Another possibly unnecessary tip. I’ve heard contradicting opinions but I lean on the side of caution and spend the extra few $$$. Yamaha makes a specialized grease WR No2 that is for use on the driveshaft splines. Again, I’m sure it’s unnecessary but it’s something I do.
Definitely!