Couple of suggestions for anyone doing the same. To maximize your vacuum, seal the MDF grid before putting on the 2nd sheet (BIN primer or shellac or similar works well). This will keep the air flow from getting through the sides the same way it pulls from the top. Also, seal the sides of the top sheet of MDF (I use edge banding) to keep the air flow only pulling from the top.
Hello,I was reading your message and great info! Seal the grid before putting second sheet? So we have to make a grid on the first sheet too,or just seal the whole second sheet ?top,bottom,and sides? And where’s a good source to buy vacuum pumps? Thanks
You should've used a spiral ramp toolpath to cut out the 2 inch holes, especially when using a downcut bit. Every time you went down, you were drilling straight down and pushing the chips directly below the endmill. Packing the chips and making the endmill burn, hastening the dulling process.
My Vac pump was just bought off online classifides and it's a 4hp, I think that's as small as you could go if doing this setup pulling through the mdf.
Isn´t it better to use a larger diameter pipe at the beginning, before it splits into 4 different pipes? Seems obv you get a better/more even airfow through all four pipes. Now most air would go to the two nearest pipes to the motor as there is less resistance there. Just a thought cheers
The MDF isn't actually solid. Once you skim the top and bottom "film" off, the air can pass through the MDF 'fibers'. That's why we don't put glue on the underside of the top sheet as that will plug up the MDF again
We had to replace them about every 6 months, but now we clean then with a few drops of Odies Oil Orange cleaner, couple drop on the linear rail once a week has kept them working perfect. I also cleaned all the old ones I removed.
Hello great video 👍- it would be great to get the 3D files. You mention it’s possible but I can’t find any contact on your webpage Can you (or somebody) help ? Thanks in advance Lars / Denmark
@@CanadianWoodworks Would you next time instead of gluing just countersink some screws through the spoilboard and into the plenum to keep the spoilboard from moving around when vac is off? Did not fully understand your response to Brian. My gut says to glue as you did....but am interested in your take after having done it. Thank you for the video. Very helpful. About to all this to my AVID CNC 4 x 8.
@@michaelporter9940 why would the spoilboard move? I have custom vac fixtures that I like to swap out with the spoil board. Gluing or screwing the spoilboard isn't necessary. If you think it needs screws, put some threaded inserts into the table and then use nylon Flathead countersunk screws
One warning - Due to the potential hazard from a dust explosion (Static from plastic pipes), either use grounded metal piping or run a bare copper wire inside the pipe and out to earth.
@@CanadianWoodworks The National Fire Protection Agency recommends non-combustible ducting when conveying combustible material. As we know, wood dust is combustible, as well as PVC pipe, never mind the static buildup, which is a source of ignition.
British Standard EN 12779 also advises that flexible ducting should be earthed to avoid the risk of a static buildup. This can be achieved by making a connection from the flexible ducting’s metal helix to the adjacent rigid metal ducting
That's only necessary for dust collection, not for the plumbing for the vacuum hold down table. Dust should not be going into the vacuum plumbing system unless you are doing something wrong. He has 3 sheets of MDF between the dust and the vacuum. That will filter out any dust.
Couple of suggestions for anyone doing the same. To maximize your vacuum, seal the MDF grid before putting on the 2nd sheet (BIN primer or shellac or similar works well). This will keep the air flow from getting through the sides the same way it pulls from the top. Also, seal the sides of the top sheet of MDF (I use edge banding) to keep the air flow only pulling from the top.
Hello,I was reading your message and great info! Seal the grid before putting second sheet? So we have to make a grid on the first sheet too,or just seal the whole second sheet ?top,bottom,and sides? And where’s a good source to buy vacuum pumps? Thanks
Would putting a layer of laminate on the MDF prior to milling the slots work?
Do you have a filter on the Inlet to the vacuum pump? Fine dust sucks right through the MDF and it will kill your pump.
Very cool Paul
Awesome job guys. Didn't know I got into the middle of your video LOL.
I am going to do exactly what you just showed. could you spicify brand of that 4HP vacuum pump is? that would be great thanks!!
This is awesome! So much technology coming together!
Really cool! Stay safe!
Good work. We shared this video in our homemade tools forum this week :)
Thanks for sharing!
You have a link for the vacuum pump?
Thanks for the video love watching your channel.
You are so welcome!
can you tell us a bit more about the vaccuum pump model?
You should've used a spiral ramp toolpath to cut out the 2 inch holes, especially when using a downcut bit. Every time you went down, you were drilling straight down and pushing the chips directly below the endmill. Packing the chips and making the endmill burn, hastening the dulling process.
What vacuum pump did you use ? Could you please share a link or atleast a name or something.
As usual great video !
Glad you enjoyed it!
do you have the Cut2d file for the board available for download?
what kind of vacuum pump are you using???
Please provide the make and model of the pump.
How do you remove table with all the plumbing underneath?????
The 2" male fitting just slides into the female fittings that are glued to the MDF. The plumbing stays under the table.
@@CanadianWoodworks Sweet Thanks Didn't want it to come across as "Troll-ish".
Thank you for your sharing. I liked and subscribed your channel.
Thank you!
Great vid....subbed!!
Hello there is a video or two showing how much extra vacuum you could achieve just by adding chamfer to your vacuum grid, well worth to try 😉
Can you give some more info about the vacuum? I have similar sized avid and want to start looking buying the vacuum pump. Thanks!
My Vac pump was just bought off online classifides and it's a 4hp, I think that's as small as you could go if doing this setup pulling through the mdf.
What model is it? I would like to do my research on this also
I love how you're making a vacuum table but you have your dust collection attached to your spindle with insulated ground wire
I spotted that too. Maybe a shroud should be his next project!
Do you have a link for the threaded inserts and bolts
conceptthirteen.ca/collections/bolts-and-inserts
What are the length and width of you vacuum table
48" x 96"
How does the vacuum hold if there aren’t any holes in your light weight mdf sheet?
When you skim coat the top and bottom of the light weight, you are removing a coating that will allow air to pass through the MDF fibers.
Isn´t it better to use a larger diameter pipe at the beginning, before it splits into 4 different pipes? Seems obv you get a better/more even airfow through all four pipes. Now most air would go to the two nearest pipes to the motor as there is less resistance there. Just a thought cheers
Yes it is, but the little pump only has a small inlet, so I don't think it's hurting the performance.
Cheers
You have a very fitting T-shirt in this video for a sawyer and wood worker. LOL
how do ya create the grid render?
It's done automatically in Vetric Aspire
Which Rampa Inserts are you using and where can you get those in the States?
Superb video lads! I'll pretty much be copying your process for my own machine. What depth did you machine the grid? Cheers.
Did you manage to find out ?
what vacuum pump is that?
I'm surprised that the suction goes right through a solid piece of MDF. You called is ultra light or something like that. Is this a special product?
It' s à less dense mdf. You can get it on special order
The MDF isn't actually solid. Once you skim the top and bottom "film" off, the air can pass through the MDF 'fibers'. That's why we don't put glue on the underside of the top sheet as that will plug up the MDF again
Your shirt is funny. Where did you get it?
In the past I did affiliate T-shirt stuff, this was one of them. Unfortunately I don't do it any more
Awesome. How often do you have to replace the linear bearings on the CNC?
We had to replace them about every 6 months, but now we clean then with a few drops of Odies Oil Orange cleaner, couple drop on the linear rail once a week has kept them working perfect. I also cleaned all the old ones I removed.
If we had better dust collection, it would be a different story they would last much longer
Cool! How large is your Avid CNC table?
Something I cannot understand, is how do we calculate the CFM from the vacuum to the size of the table?
I also don't know (-:
Can you put the Vetrix file in the comments?
Hello great video 👍- it would be great to get the 3D files. You mention it’s possible but I can’t find any contact on your webpage
Can you (or somebody) help ?
Thanks in advance
Lars / Denmark
On a planed surface which is often not perfect there is a stabile fixing? Thanks.
Why bother gluing the spoilboard down? Why not use a gasket around all the zones?
Your right the spoil board does not need to be glued down, I did't was the gasket design
@@CanadianWoodworks Would you next time instead of gluing just countersink some screws through the spoilboard and into the plenum to keep the spoilboard from moving around when vac is off? Did not fully understand your response to Brian. My gut says to glue as you did....but am interested in your take after having done it. Thank you for the video. Very helpful. About to all this to my AVID CNC 4 x 8.
@@michaelporter9940 why would the spoilboard move? I have custom vac fixtures that I like to swap out with the spoil board. Gluing or screwing the spoilboard isn't necessary. If you think it needs screws, put some threaded inserts into the table and then use nylon Flathead countersunk screws
@@CanadianWoodworks Have you had to replace the spoilboard yet? Seems to me like glueing it down makes that process a bit harder.
That’s mint Eh! 😬
We think so too!
I was expecting a DIY kink vacuum bed video. I'm still confused what this is
This is a vacuum bed for a cnc
One warning - Due to the potential hazard from a dust explosion (Static from plastic pipes), either use grounded metal piping or run a bare copper wire inside the pipe and out to earth.
Has this ever been proved to be an issue?
@@CanadianWoodworks The National Fire Protection Agency recommends non-combustible ducting when conveying combustible material. As we know, wood dust is combustible, as well as PVC pipe, never mind the static buildup, which is a source of ignition.
British Standard EN 12779 also advises that flexible ducting should be earthed to avoid the risk of a static buildup. This can be achieved by making a connection from the flexible ducting’s metal helix to the adjacent
rigid metal ducting
This could affect your workshop insurance too. Not being 'Smart' just trying to educate from personal experience as a shop owner for many years.
That's only necessary for dust collection, not for the plumbing for the vacuum hold down table. Dust should not be going into the vacuum plumbing system unless you are doing something wrong. He has 3 sheets of MDF between the dust and the vacuum. That will filter out any dust.
Hardest part is finding a good pump without going broke. Those pumps are not easy to get.
Very true!