I did this last year. It took me about a month and a half as I have limited electronics knowledge and a shitty soldering iron. I opted to recap the capacitors close to the heatsink as these had swelled with age. My Xbox is a 1.5, so I didn't need to replace the clock cap (removing it would have been enough) but I did anyway. I have heard that it's still a good idea to remove the clock cap from a 1.6, but you need to replace it as they are needed to boot up.
Thanks a lot man, my xbox 1.5 was randomly turning on and off and the On button stopped working a couple of days ago. I followed your instructions, removed the capacitor and cleaned the motherboard and now it is working perfectly. My xbox was manufactured in Mexico so it was a little different inside as it has an additional fan I think over the GPU and 3 big capacitors near the faulty clock capacitor but your guide worked like a charm. Thanks and greetings from Mexico City!!!
yours is an 1.0, the early rev :) re you sure you solved just removing the clock capacitor? usually the problem with ''on off'' ''eject'' it s caused by rotten traces on the backside (front backside) of the motherboard, if you still have the problem check the first 4 traces on the, usually are rotten, ''easy'' to bypass with ''kynar'' wires if you know the right point
I know this video is 2 years old, but for what its worth, NO ONE goes beyond removing the drives to get to the capacitor. Just twist and tilt the capacitor around until it breaks free then clean up the area with isopropyl alcohol and reassemble. DONE!
My hope is that people will he inspired to do this themselves. It's really not that difficult in the grand scheme of things, and the equipment to start off is more affordable than people might think.
It's good to change the clock capacitor in question but at 6:18 those 3 metallic looking ones (they're silver but I don't think they're solid metal style caps, they look like they're still electrolytic with the cross pattern vents on top) look bulged and like they've leaked all over the tops of them. I had a crystal XBOX that I only ever used for an XBMC box that stopped turning on and I remember there being exactly 3 caps that looked obviously bad when I opened it up. I used to think if a capacitor was silver or metallic looking like those they're automatically solid metal caps but learned that's not always true often electrolytics can look similar but still have the vent cuts on top if you look closer. I'm wondering if that's why it had issues turning on?
It's true they might need to be replaced, but the power button issue is specifically because of damaged traces. www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/29-how-to-fix-trace-corrosion/
Bought a couple broken console lots and ended up with SIX broken original XBoxes. They ALL had bad large capacitors by the CPU. Re-capped them all with Console 5 kits (boards and power supplies), they ALL ended up working, only one with a dead DVD laser (Philips drive). Replaced all the belts, upgraded fans to silent ones, cleaned the lasers, and replaced thermal compound. Bought some extra AV cables and controllers and gifted 3 to my younger siblings for Christmas, still have 3 more working ones here. Out of all of them, only 1 had a decently leaking clock cap, cleaned up with white vinegar and then 99% alcohol. These things have some known issues but they're tanks.
I just open up a crystal Xbox to remove the clock and whilst there was no signs of leaking on the board the Xbox has symptoms you would expect due to trace rot
I removed the clock capacitor and now my xbox won't turn off. I have to press the power button repeatedly to make it turn off. I looked at the other capacitors and battery acid has formed on the top of the capacitors. Xbox original consoles are so problematic.
@@retrogameon I wiggled the capacitor back and forth until it snapped off. I tested the xbox and it turned off, worked fine as normal, after I cleaned around the nearby resistors the problem came back. I didn't desolder the capacitor legs.
@@retrogameon on the bottom of the motherboard it might be shorting , it was working before, one night it turned itself on by itself, and it wouldn't turn off from the power button. I think the other capacitors need replacing. Sometimes it turns on and off and sometimes it doesn't.
@@retrogameon I took out the motherboard and no corrosion on the bottom of the motherboard, but two capacitors have orange dried on liquid on the top of the capacitors. So until they are replaced, the power button won't work.. I've already removed the clock capacitor. But that didn't solve the problem, the power button worked for 5 minutes and then the xbox shut down, and the problem came back.
First of all, I would worry more about that floating glass at 10:20 So you don't really need to replace the capacitor, just remove it and it will continue to work just not keep time? Interesting. Does that affect save games etc?
That's how I always seem to have a drink in my hand during repair videos... I have to catch them. And no, the Xbox just loses the ability to know the time which doesn't affect anything really. I believe save games are on flash memory so they're unaffected. You could always replace the cap, but I read that it can only hold the time for three hours anyway.
I'm more impressed you actually managed to find some compressed air :) All the places down here in the south-west that sell it, sell it for stupid amounts of money for a tiny little can. I usually just pull out old-faithful, I have an XPower electric blower (The local school I work half a day a week at fixing computers bought the same one after I suggested it, makes cleaning the insides of computers so much easier). I would recommend heading to your local PLE (I'm assuming you are north of the river? Which would mean Osborne Park probably), currently on sale for $99 (Normal price $129). Makes cleaning out devices a lot easier if a can of compressed air has difficulty doing it. Also, I'm impressed at how easy you managed to get the board out of the console, I have an oldish console from 2001, after a good 10mins or so (Made sure I got every last screw out), I still couldn't pull the board out, something was holding it back, I just couldn't work out what).
I'm quite central so PLE Bentley has been my go-to for years. Thanks for the recommendation, I spend a small fortune on compressed air so a powered device might be the way to go. As for your issue removing the mainboard, maybe it's the ethernet and AV sockets? These slide out of mounts in the case, so the board can easily be removed.
@@retrogameon Interesting, I'll have to have another look. I did have great difficulty working out which revision it was at one point too, as it seems to have the tells of being 2 revisions, our household is its first owner.
Ah yes. I remember doing this a few years ago. I just wiggled it back and forth until the legs broke. Knew I was never going to put a nother one in there so I didnt feel like desoldering. Now I just need to get my box a new power supply....and dvd drive...and hard drive...its been out of commission for 11 years and I still haven't fixed it.
It's from an electronic store I worked in. It runs on 12v and is intended to be installed in vehicles for reversing cameras etc. I'm sure you could still find them online.
my xbox just died today becuse of this issue now i have to buy a new one in a t20 set to rip out the clock compicater yayyy what fun all my save data went strait out the window i was littarly playing need for speed most wanted when it died
I did this last year. It took me about a month and a half as I have limited electronics knowledge and a shitty soldering iron. I opted to recap the capacitors close to the heatsink as these had swelled with age.
My Xbox is a 1.5, so I didn't need to replace the clock cap (removing it would have been enough) but I did anyway. I have heard that it's still a good idea to remove the clock cap from a 1.6, but you need to replace it as they are needed to boot up.
Ah, I didn't realise that about the 1.6's. guess I'll order a couple of caps since they're fairly odd values.
Thanks a lot man, my xbox 1.5 was randomly turning on and off and the On button stopped working a couple of days ago. I followed your instructions, removed the capacitor and cleaned the motherboard and now it is working perfectly. My xbox was manufactured in Mexico so it was a little different inside as it has an additional fan I think over the GPU and 3 big capacitors near the faulty clock capacitor but your guide worked like a charm. Thanks and greetings from Mexico City!!!
yours is an 1.0, the early rev :) re you sure you solved just removing the clock capacitor? usually the problem with ''on off'' ''eject'' it s caused by rotten traces on the backside (front backside) of the motherboard, if you still have the problem check the first 4 traces on the, usually are rotten, ''easy'' to bypass with ''kynar'' wires if you know the right point
@@elpasadordeoro Thanks, the issue actually had not happened until a few days back, I will be sure to check the rotten traces!
I know this video is 2 years old, but for what its worth, NO ONE goes beyond removing the drives to get to the capacitor. Just twist and tilt the capacitor around until it breaks free then clean up the area with isopropyl alcohol and reassemble. DONE!
@mwreyf1 this is bad practice. There's too much risk of pulling up a pad.
Without blokes like you fixing things up there'd be no retro gaming at all. Cheers RGO
My hope is that people will he inspired to do this themselves. It's really not that difficult in the grand scheme of things, and the equipment to start off is more affordable than people might think.
@@retrogameon is there a way to tell its been removed without opening the xbox?
It's good to change the clock capacitor in question but at 6:18 those 3 metallic looking ones (they're silver but I don't think they're solid metal style caps, they look like they're still electrolytic with the cross pattern vents on top) look bulged and like they've leaked all over the tops of them. I had a crystal XBOX that I only ever used for an XBMC box that stopped turning on and I remember there being exactly 3 caps that looked obviously bad when I opened it up. I used to think if a capacitor was silver or metallic looking like those they're automatically solid metal caps but learned that's not always true often electrolytics can look similar but still have the vent cuts on top if you look closer. I'm wondering if that's why it had issues turning on?
It's true they might need to be replaced, but the power button issue is specifically because of damaged traces. www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/29-how-to-fix-trace-corrosion/
Bought a couple broken console lots and ended up with SIX broken original XBoxes. They ALL had bad large capacitors by the CPU. Re-capped them all with Console 5 kits (boards and power supplies), they ALL ended up working, only one with a dead DVD laser (Philips drive). Replaced all the belts, upgraded fans to silent ones, cleaned the lasers, and replaced thermal compound. Bought some extra AV cables and controllers and gifted 3 to my younger siblings for Christmas, still have 3 more working ones here.
Out of all of them, only 1 had a decently leaking clock cap, cleaned up with white vinegar and then 99% alcohol. These things have some known issues but they're tanks.
Mine had the clock and five near the GPU/CPU leak today. Glad i had some spare systems. One with fresh caps somone installed xD
I just open up a crystal Xbox to remove the clock and whilst there was no signs of leaking on the board the Xbox has symptoms you would expect due to trace rot
I removed the clock capacitor and now my xbox won't turn off.
I have to press the power button repeatedly to make it turn off. I looked at the other capacitors and battery acid has formed on the top of the capacitors. Xbox original consoles are so problematic.
Might be related to the problem with power buttons and their traces I also mention in this video? I plan to delve further into the issue soon.
@@retrogameon I wiggled the capacitor back and forth until it snapped off. I tested the xbox and it turned off, worked fine as normal, after I cleaned around the nearby resistors the problem came back. I didn't desolder the capacitor legs.
@@healthbeauty7853 maybe the legs are shorting onto something?
@@retrogameon on the bottom of the motherboard it might be shorting , it was working before, one night it turned itself on by itself, and it wouldn't turn off from the power button. I think the other capacitors need replacing. Sometimes it turns on and off and sometimes it doesn't.
@@retrogameon I took out the motherboard and no corrosion on the bottom of the motherboard, but two capacitors have orange dried on liquid on the top of the capacitors. So until they are replaced, the power button won't work.. I've already removed the clock capacitor. But that didn't solve the problem, the power button worked for 5 minutes and then the xbox shut down, and the problem came back.
First of all, I would worry more about that floating glass at 10:20
So you don't really need to replace the capacitor, just remove it and it will continue to work just not keep time? Interesting. Does that affect save games etc?
That's how I always seem to have a drink in my hand during repair videos... I have to catch them. And no, the Xbox just loses the ability to know the time which doesn't affect anything really. I believe save games are on flash memory so they're unaffected. You could always replace the cap, but I read that it can only hold the time for three hours anyway.
@@retrogameon Thank you.
Did you ever make the video about the broken traces?
Will removing the hard drive reset anything on it mines is soft modded but I need to remove the capacitor and repaste.
I'm more impressed you actually managed to find some compressed air :)
All the places down here in the south-west that sell it, sell it for stupid amounts of money for a tiny little can.
I usually just pull out old-faithful, I have an XPower electric blower (The local school I work half a day a week at fixing computers bought the same one after I suggested it, makes cleaning the insides of computers so much easier).
I would recommend heading to your local PLE (I'm assuming you are north of the river? Which would mean Osborne Park probably), currently on sale for $99 (Normal price $129). Makes cleaning out devices a lot easier if a can of compressed air has difficulty doing it.
Also, I'm impressed at how easy you managed to get the board out of the console, I have an oldish console from 2001, after a good 10mins or so (Made sure I got every last screw out), I still couldn't pull the board out, something was holding it back, I just couldn't work out what).
I'm quite central so PLE Bentley has been my go-to for years. Thanks for the recommendation, I spend a small fortune on compressed air so a powered device might be the way to go. As for your issue removing the mainboard, maybe it's the ethernet and AV sockets? These slide out of mounts in the case, so the board can easily be removed.
@@retrogameon Interesting, I'll have to have another look.
I did have great difficulty working out which revision it was at one point too, as it seems to have the tells of being 2 revisions, our household is its first owner.
Ah yes. I remember doing this a few years ago. I just wiggled it back and forth until the legs broke. Knew I was never going to put a nother one in there so I didnt feel like desoldering.
Now I just need to get my box a new power supply....and dvd drive...and hard drive...its been out of commission for 11 years and I still haven't fixed it.
Nice video! Any reason why you didn't replace more of the caps?
Apparently they only retain the time for three hours - and, not that I really need my Xbox's knowing the time anyway
Great video. What is that small television your testing the consoles on and where can I get one?
It's from an electronic store I worked in. It runs on 12v and is intended to be installed in vehicles for reversing cameras etc. I'm sure you could still find them online.
Big like drop 👍 Old Nerd supporting 😉
Hell yeah
my xbox just died today becuse of this issue now i have to buy a new one in a t20 set to rip out the clock compicater yayyy what fun all my save data went strait out the window i was littarly playing need for speed most wanted when it died