PSA: Your Original Xbox may be ROTTING AWAY right now...
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ธ.ค. 2019
- Identify your Xbox version here: xboxdevwiki.net/Hardware_Revi...
▶SUBSCRIBE: / @mattkc
▶FOLLOW on Twitter: / itsmattkc
▶FOLLOW on Instagram: / itsmattkc
▶MUSIC USED
Lamb - setting sun
falcon/pulse+tdr - spineless
zoolrave
Graff - rain eater
BLiZZARD - Contraduct Design
Pink - sonic sucks!
CORE - mr spock's cryo-bed - เกม
So, you basically just removed the Xbox’s appendix.
Lol your so right tho
Lol
Yep that's it
Lmao
Actually your appendix has a proper purpose
It is no longer considered a useless organ
I bet you feel dumb for not buying that 18 year warranty now.
*Cough* Lifetime Warranty
Xd
well actually at the time your posting that comment ( Jan 2020 ) all original XBOX 18 year warranties would have been expired since 15 November 2019
EDIT : the latest release time was march 12th 2002 in Japan , so even then your warranty expired 10 days ago
I have a 2 year warranty from CeX
microsoft should sell a lifetime warranty and write that its max 100 years
I can just imagine at Microsoft HQ, people going about their day when the front doors burst open, a single man stands in the doorway with an Xbox under one arm and a legal document proving his 18 year warranty in the other hand.
"REPAIR THIS"
"SAVE MY SON, DAMMIT!!"
Microsoft may be confused
200 likes pog
:D
There's actually an interesting story behind these capacitors. One manufacturer actually stole the formula for the capacitor chemicals from another, but the original manufacturer, suspecting espionage, gave them a slightly wrong formula. The capacitors were just good enough to work in testing, but over the years they would break down. The other big nail in the coffin was that in the early 2000s, a lot of these sabotaged caps ended up in extremely power-hungry and hot-tempered Pentium 4 motherboards, so their failures were much faster and more violent.
oh wow sabotage
That's actually..... Interesting.
Seems kinda pointless to make the formula effective enough that the caps would only start exploding after 15-20 years.
@@elephystry well that's because they'd fail within about 5, typically. Long enough for those capacitors to have been trusted for a while, not long enough to easily blame it on age, which only leaves poorly made as the only real explanation.
Krabby Patty Secret Formula.
Oh boy, where can I get a
POWERSTOR
AEROGEL
POWERSTOR
AEROGEL
@streamline6666 😂😂 what the heck.
Use an 1-23F 2.7v cap
I would suggest a local powerstor aerogel store, or Wal Mart dunno.
“Play it safe it safe with alcohol”
- MattKC 2019
"Drink it" - me
@@PinaEverlue "just do it" - us
You didn't even quote him correctly...
Cory Goodman it’s a joke it’s not that serious. Kind of the point
I gave u 1k likes lol
this made me realize, if i wanna be a console collector, i’m gonna have to learn a little more about repairs if i don’t wanna blow my bank
well here is a good start
@@mistrui6446 my first console repair (not take apart, ive cleaned an N64 before) was a Switch Lite
it was painful.
@@Hutch2Much i can imagine with such a small console
@@Hutch2Much what did you have to fix? my switch lite is the only console I've bought new since the ps3 and it's really just a $400 animal crossing machine so I try to stay up to date on what can go wrong
@@33screamingfrogs34 oh yeah no a dog chewed on the analog stick lmao
I would do this but I exclusively use my original Xbox as a watch.
it'll be broken soon then. just get a new capacitor.
I didn't realize that would happen. I still have and use my original launch Xbox (The Duke controller) from 01 and other than the DVD drawer issue (needs lube) all I've had to do for it is lube and controller replacements. I think if you use it regularly, it "conditions" the capacitors by charging/discharging them. But if I store it, it probably would fail.
How do you attach it to your wrist? What kind of TV and gas-powered electric generator do you carry with you?
@@derpknightfully it's this beautiful thing called "A Joke"
@@addust my woosh muscles are tingling...
i learned from 8bit guy if you buy retro tech from more than 18 years old replace the capacitors
not always... depends, if its caps are known 'bad' afflicted brands, maybe, otherwise , i have old electronic equipment going back to the 30's, and most of the stuff back to at least the 60's have their original electrolytics in, they're still ok within tolerance, dont obsess too much about this 'replace all old electrolytics', it doesnt guarantee against future failure, other components can fail as well anytime
@@andygozzo72 It's common good practice to replace them if they are old, especially in areas heat tends to build up, as they don't last forever, dry up and are the most common failure among electronics. When a capacitor fails, it can also take down other components, costing a lot more to repair in the long run, then spending a few pennies on the dollar replacing them as a preventative measure. I have some vintage receivers that still work, that are around 20 some years old, that I will recap before circulating them into use. While a bad failure resulting in a fire isn't all that common it's best to reduce that chance before it has a chance to happen.
Same i learned from 8 bit aswell
@Mammoth Supremacy 55 hm
Wait but there's nothing wrong with my n64 wdym
Me: "doesnt have xbox"
TH-cam: i sense that you're interested.
Neal [NWL] Oh you too😏
I am also a victim of this but alot of my friends still have their old xbox's from when we were children so this video did help get the news around to get their xbox consoles fixed.
@SweShooga So when all I watch are racing games, why do I get ads for nursery ryhmes in languages I can't understand and ads about a tetchy anti-vegan and a fundraiser? Go on, tell me.
You are not the single one
@Devin Hanson Try 1/7 of a brain cell
Let's not grace them with 1/4 of a brain cell
BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN OPENING THE XBOX. The power supply, even when unplugged, can create lethal electrical discharges if it's touched wrong. Be super careful. The power supply is the yellow-tan circuit board part with the bronze-colored coils on it.
It’s much safer (not guaranteed but many orders of magnitude safer) if you unplug it and leave it unplugged for at least a few hours before opening it.
No joke. Made this mistake as a kid trying to fix my old fat PS1. Damn near killed me, had to sit cross legged on the floor processing the shock for like 3 minutes lmao
@@damonflavell I’ve also almost killed myself by accident. So basically there was some echoing/reverb in which kind of sent electricity from my ear to the rest of my body. At least that’s how I think it occurred.
Lethal my ass lmao, i got electrocuted by the PSU and it was just a regular shock. Wanna talk about lethal shocks?? Talk about CRT displays, not this console lol
@@mrpiratefox4497 survivorship bias
@@mrpiratefox4497i said “can”, not “will”. I think “can” is enough to exercise some caution.
Ik this video is old but it’s great, also like to mention it’s illegal to void warranty’s due to The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, so if you work on any electronic that says warranty void if sticker removed or unauthorized repair, don’t be afraid, they can’t deny you the warranty, just remind them of The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act and they will not argue with you😊
i have two og Xboxes and neither of them have acted up in years and now i have an extreme amount of anxiety over this
You should be fine as long as you take care of it well
Remove it immediately! And get them replaced
same here
but wouldnt it be cool to open them and check if you got the rotting fungus surprise inside,plus dont all the concoles need heat transfer gel on the proccessors to be replace anyway?
@@tdplay4135 not really, consoles however costly/premium thermal paste it may have, the paste will eventually dry out and stop conducting heat as efficiently as it used to.
When Microsoft use low quality capacitors to save cost
*stonks*
Microsoft always cuts corners with their Xboxes.
Like the original Xbox 360.
(I don’t know about the One though.)
The capacitor is of usual quality for the time - as far as EDLC are concerned. They were a new technology at the time, and did get much better since. But no other type of capacitor would do in this design, maybe a rechargeable NiMH battery, but the battery would have a predictably limited lifespan, so they were quite convinced they'd do better with a specialised capacitor. The cost saving is not in the capacitor specifically, but in the somewhat asinine whole-system design of the clock and SRAM circuit. The failure was not necessarily predictable, but if you engineer a cutting edge product that can survive for 10 years, well that's actually pretty good, you get a pat on the back, so i think they did alright.
Similarly in Xbox360, they were simply out of options and it's down to bad luck in a way. 45% failure rate for first-gen of Xbox360 - well surprise, PS3 had like a 25% failure rate, which is lower (probably merely incidentally) but also unacceptably high, indicating similar level of engineering failure. Just about every single high-power processor device made in 2005, 2006 is just horrible in reliability, including GPUs and laptop mainboards, because everyone was scrambling to get rid of leaded solder due to EU legislation and they didn't have the recipe, a lot of other materials have to be adjusted for lead-free to actually be reliable. The Xbox360 and PS3 were both engineered to standards of the era and the failure was probably suspected given the materials transition, but it was never clear which layer would actually fail and how to mitigate it until actual failures would actually start happening in the wild, they just had no choice but to go in blind.
@Jack Harrington
Micro$oft always cuts corners in general
Well 20 years is actually pretty good
Microsoft did not know they were "low quality" at the time. Even companies that were considered reputable in the capacitor industry like Nichicon and Panasonic were affected. It cost Dell an estimated $420 million in replacement and repair costs over the years 2002-2005. It's speculated to have been the main cause of ABIT Computer Corporation having to close their PC component manufacturing business in 2008.
When I was a big dumpy kid I always found it funny to push those little cylinders off all of the broken electronics I found
Good video. I recently acquired a Dell Optiplex with those troublesome Nichicon HM caps and went about replacing them with polymer capacitors.
One thing that is worth noting is that for motherboards and power supplies, be sure to use capacitors with a similar ESR rating to ensure stability. Also be sure to install new caps in the correct polarity because they will explode otherwise.
Welp, looks like I need to go digging through my storage to find my old Xbox
Reminds me I might need to tell my friend that has one.
brüh
Yeah, damnit I thought my xbox was mint until now
Same
You'd be surprised how many old electronics magically start working again after replacing the power supply capacitors.
this seems like a good tip.
Just make sure you don't electrocute yourself to death. Seriously. There can often be lethal amounts of power stored in power supply units in some types of electronics. I would recommend that you don't open up any power supply units unless you know EXACTLY what you are doing.
Ah yes, the old heart transpert
@@emiljohansson923 I electrocuted myself about a month ago, was really close to dying
Thats dangerous af. Don't do that.
Awesome and easy to follow tutorial, with some top notch camera work. I have 2 Xbox's. A crystal clear(in the past had changed it's 1.4 for a 1.1 for softmod, and a crystal green being 1.4 Both weren't to bad, but had started to leak. Had light residue on the board but no clear damage. I just wiggled them off with se needle nose pliers.The residue easily came off with isopropyl alcohol.
I gave away my Original XBOX way back in 2006........yet I'm glued to this video, saying to myself "I need to go back and fix this".
I have two of the original XBOXs. I will fix one for me, and the other will be fixed for you.
Me: *Looks Over At My OG Xbox In The Corner Of My Room*
😥
Hope that it is a v1.6 one^^
@@adrenaliner91 how can you check that
@@deafbyhiphop well, manufacturing date and Wikipedia page
@@adrenaliner91 what about checking to see if it keeps time for a few minutes after unplugging it then replugging it?
@@deafbyhiphop I think to check the date on the label and the Wikipedia page would be better to do at first. And then check if it keeps the time. But good point. But even if it keeps the time, if it is an older model it could still most likely happen.
Okay, not gonna lie, 20 years is a good life span for bad electronics.
bad?
You mean old
Bad?
Exactly, some cheap china stuff barely last a year
@@txq2270 cheap*
Thanks for this! I just went through this process with my Xbox and it's working great. Thankfully it was still clean inside but I took out the cap just in case.
As the owner of a 90s Macintosh, my condolences, but if you all get those capacitors taken care of it'll last another decade and a half. I've had to do 14 in my 1992 Mac Classic 2, all it takes is snips to get rid of the old caps, a soldering iron to remove the remaining bits of it and attatch the new one, and isopropyl alcohol to clean it all up. Frankly I'd be worried about more than just the clock cap, but it's not like they're terrifyingly hard to replace or anything, just be careful you're not trying to pull them off the board, rather cutting them down and cutting their feet away. Look up videos on macintosh capacitor replacement to get a better idea.
There is 18 year warranty ???! damn so i might have another year left on mine, got my xbox in christmas 2002
FJ21™: *calls Microsoft
Microsoft: Are you calling for Xbox support
FJ21: *yes*
FJ21: I would like to ship my Xbox *1* for service
Microsoft: *yes*
@@esiayoalegbe5681 haha i get it
i remember having my xbox original 4-5 years ago then i got an upgrade with an xbox 360 S. i still play my old xbox original games on the xbox 360 to remind me how games used to be and what games i played when i was young. i have simpson hit and run, forza motorsport 1, etc.
there isn't, that was a joke. ms stopped repairing original xboxes in 2009.
Whenever I see a error on the Original xbox and it says "call Microsoft" what happens if you do call Microsoft what will they say?
I have a 360 that I’m forced to use everyday with my suffering consisting on the last level of sonic adventure 2. My hatred will boil causing me to destroy it eventually
But... Part of Cannon's Core is fun...
Best luck to you, it took me a year to beat Biolizard. It was my first time playing on PS3.
SAME
LIVE AND LEARN
HANGING ON THE EDGE OF TOMMOROW
I already destroyed mine...
Great call! My capacitor was starting to leak on the board. Thank you.
So glad TH-cam recommended your channel to me. Your work is really amazing.
3:18 I bet the description of the product said “m&m not included”
LOL 😂😂😂
I kept getting visualization of an m&m being installed in place of a capacitor.
should have used a Banana for scale instead.
Maybe it is 🤔
But i want to get free snack :(
Another Important PSA: If you're a more tech savvy bloke such as myself and get the bright idea to change out the thermal paste on the console's CPU/GPU, run the Xbox for a while beforehand to soften up that ancient thermal paste. I was removing the clock capacitor out of my OG Xbox about a year ago, and decided to do some other housekeeping with the machine while it was open. Unfortunately I was a dumbass and removed the heat-sinks cold, it'll give you an absolute hell of a time removing them and in my case, I was rewarded with failed attempts to boot followed by being greeted with the infamous Christmas lights of death. I confirmed the correct capacitor was removed and there was no visible damage to the board, so the consensus was that solder joints were cracked and damaged under the GPU because of the sheer leverage needed to remove it, the old thermal paste can be that strong.
Several years ago I tried to get the the gpu heat sink off with no luck, the cpu on the other hand was easy.
Pouring alcohol also works for me.
@@dale7188 That explains it, I bent the cooling fins slightly and cut my hand on it before I ended up just leaving it. If I used any more force I probably would have torn the die right off the board.
This guy: "I used brute force"
Heat gun: "I exist"
@@whatsaaappthesequel It's supposed to mean public service announcement.
I didn’t need this because I was lucky enough to keep my original Xbox but I loved how informative you were throughout it. Was a lot of fun just learning all of these incredible little details! Who knows, maybe as technology continues to advance, I’ll be able to use it on my One 18-20yrs down the road!
thanks for posting this! turns out i have the very first hardware revision and, while i was lucky that nothing was leaking or burning, this goes miles towards keeping it safe for the future.
an aside for ppl without torx screwdrivers: i DID have luck with a small allen wrench getting out the t-10 screws so if you're in a pinch it might work for you too, but it's probably better to be safe and just get some screwdrivers.
If you brought the hardware revision then you are officially not a awful clown
"People say that the acid is basic instead of acidic"
Wait thats illegal
I only have *basic* knowledge of chemestry, and I don't mean to sound *acidic,* but I think they're mutually exclusive
@@AyySpeedy aaaaand so was I. Read the bits in bold on my comment.
Lol
That's not how that works. That's not how any of this works.
@@KingJellyfishII was this a woosh in a woosh?
Took a look at mines and did see a bit of acid leaking. Quickly removed and cleaned the area on the board. Thanks Matt!
I had a xbox die from this 10 years ago, I remember taking it apart and finding THAT capacitor surrounded by burn. Now I know why, thanks microsoft for making me buy another console.
I removed the capacitor about a year ago and it didn't leak, I was so happy to see that was the case. Softmodded it up and put in a new hard drive while I was at it too!
"you wil have to live with perminately scaring to save it"
sometimes to save a life, you have to leave a scar.
Sometimes, to save a life, you have to take one
@@calebspilman7811 that's killing not saving a life
@@melodolic9908 Sometimes, to save one life, you have to kill another(is that phrased better?)
It was also a reference to something so old, i forgot
@@calebspilman7811 yes thank you
Everyone: Hey, Microsoft, can you use good components, so our consoles will last longer?
Microsoft: *POWERSTOR AEROGEL*
Maks3456 to be fair nobody makes anything designed to last anymore.
@@HiDefHDMusic I'd be surprised if any of the next gen consoles last as long as the original xbox did
To be fair, it's been over 18 years since its release.
The caps out lasted the life of the console, a life of 18 years. A good amount of time for zero servicing.
Xbox wasn't even a thing then
Direct Xbox
Thanks for the tutorial @MattKC lucky I saw this video of yours i just took apart my childhood original xbox and removed this capacitor which had started to leak (lucky I fixed it in time or my console would have been stuffed) thanks!
Thank you for the video! I opened up my Xbox and yes the clock capacitor was leaking. I took it out and cleaned the area. There was no damage to the board. Put it back together and works fine. Those other three capacitors by the heat sink are bulging a little bit, so I will replace those. Once again thanx Matt I have never done anything like this before.
“Hence the urgent tone, of this video.”
*5 MINUTES IN*
Two comments: One, removing a factory seal does not void your warranty. This is law. Two, you can remove a factory seal without damage using a Teflon blade. AvE has a great video on making and using a Teflon blade for this purpose. Great video!
Please link, quote, or name the specific literature/case law/federal statute that says removing a factory seal does not void a warranty, because I have never heard this before and it sounds like utter nonsense.
If it is in fact law, there must be documentation of that in a legal case, or in federal legal statutes.
We have the right to repair, but never have I heard that a manufacturer must offer warranty service on a device in which a repair has been attempted.
@@CGoody564 Too slow to Google "Does breaking the seal void the warranty?" Why would there be a law about something that doesn't affect your warranty? Here's a link for you: www.popularmechanics.com/technology/gadgets/a19745063/void-if-seal-broken-gadgets-illegal-right-to-repair/
Thanks for info
Here’s a link to AvE’s Teflon knife: th-cam.com/video/wfOZKj8ZGqo/w-d-xo.html
@@CGoody564 I work as a computer repair technician that is certified to repair many brands of devices. From MSI to Lenovo, HP to Dell. Even Acer.
We are not, nor have we ever been as long as I've been working there, instructed to check if the warranty seal has been broken and deny service if it has. They may as well not exist. The only thing we use those stickers for is to check if certain devices have been opened at all in general, and we only deny warranty service if we can visually determine, with certainty, physical damage done through careless handling of an open unit (say a capacitor broken off through physical force, or a dent in the motherboard from a dropped screwdriver or something). To be honest, I am seeing those stickers less and less often. Very few laptops or desktops I've recently worked on has had one, as far as I can remember. Probably because their authority has increasingly been confirmed to be, ironically, null and void.
Sometimes the clock capacitor may be gold and a different brand (Nichicon I think) and it still needs removed. I've seen them leak on all revisions. Also, the Nichicon HM were not "low quality" they just had a manufacturing defect. Nichicon is top tier.
when installing electrolytic caps make sure to get the polarity right by the side of the sticker it has a strip with markings indicating the -ve polarity
In the USA, opening a device is no longer permitted to void a warranty.
Jeff Groves what do you mean?
Yeah are you saying it's okay to open a device in USA WITHOUT voiding warranty?
@Bart T
It seems so.
@@bartt7425 yes, it was a recent law
oh
Oh man, why did he have to route the modchip related wires through the controller port as opposed to underneath the front panel? 😬
You know, I wondered that too while filming this... It feels like under the front panel would be just as accessible and much less ugly.
Also hey, I've seen your videos before!
I love you!
@@MattKC - This is an X-ecuter 3 chip. You can definitely route the switch panel cable harness under the front lip by removing it during installation. I've done a few of these & even own 2 with the lcd front panel option. I wish I had a blue one though.
Also, why is he using the stock, 40 conductor IDE cable? He seems to have a large HDD installed, too. He would benefit from a cheap, 80 conductor, E-IDE/ATA-133 cable. They're mandatory when using SATA to IDE adapters, to install modern HDDs & SSDs.
@Mickey Mouse your a fake mickey mouse
@@harry-of9oz bruh hes fake
*Strongly recommend anyone with a v1.6/6b, or ANY version, routinely check ALL caps and not just the clock caps. I've had two version 1.6 units have other caps on the board go bad. Fortunately no damage was done but I checked just in time. Thanks for the video. Timing truly is critical to ensure your OG Xbox continues to live well into the future.
They should've used a RubyCon capacitor. They are high quality and last longer.
Between 95 to 05 electronics was plagued by low quality capacitors. Electrolytic caps do always fail and leak but high quality ones do not do this early and this quick
99 and 2007.
I remember 2 years ago, after a certain amount of time I was using my xbox at the gamers club at my hs I used to go to. After one day, things were normal for a bit and then once I inserted a copy of Halo 2 my xbox died and wouldn't turn on... It took me a little bit of time to work up the courage to open it up as I felt I would screw something up, one reason being it won't feel the same to me if I bought a new one. I've had it since I was a little kid after all. Eventually I opened up my xbox and thankfully, there were no issues with the clock capacitor as it was a 1.6 model. What I did notice though was that all of the power capacitors on the right side (facing the front) were bulged, but thankfully not leaking. I took them out and looked for any possible spots on the circuit board for any other possible leakage. It wasn't much, but I cleaned everything just in case, and ordered new power capacitors. Now it works as good as new, which makes me very happy. Every so often I still get some friends and my nephew and we still play on it together and I still get to make memories on it. It's nice to see that there are people like you that take the time to help others with stuff like this and make ways to keep the classics alive.
Mc.Butter Lettuce that’s really cool. 4 player halo, time splitters, 007, other games I’ve probs forgot about.. ah they were the classics. I was the kid who would deny looking at your screen hahaha!
Ah yes... the good old, early 2000s capacitor plague. I worked in a computer repair shop as a teenager and had so many devices come in because of this.
The bigger problem and real reason those time caps failed is because the voltage rating of the caps was at or just under the real operating voltage. That creates a situation were that poor cap will be ruined like charging a battery with a higher voltage and current it is rated to handle.
Yes the current draw of the clock circuit is higher than normal, but a battery could still be used if it had enough amp hours. I recall that even some socket A 462 motherboards that used the nvidia Nforce chipset also ate clock button cells fast. You could use low discharge nimh cells in a board charge circuit modification. You could also use a supercap.
This already shows why emulators are necessary
virtual console
maybe but they dont fukin work properly anyway
there are no good xbox emulators
@@tdplay4135
THERE ARE NO GOOD XBOX EMULATORS FFS
@EpicZantetsuken eat shit
In a nutshell the capacitors are leaking acid
Yeah, because batteries leak acid after a very long time of use
You condensed 10 minutes of a guy talking about it into a single sentence
Ikr. He could have just said that. Just replace it then.
Thanks for this! I got recommended this video recently, and turned on my orignal xbox and sure enough it had issues! i cleaned it up well and removed the clock capacitor and it fixed it! Have a working original xbox again thank you!
To save the sticker from doing that just use a hair dryer heat up the place where the sticker is and then peel off the sticker make sure to keep the sticker clean. Then when you're ready place it back where it was and use a hair dryer to heat it back up to glue it back in place. Now if you don't want the ugliness just leave the sticker off. And if it's acidic your best bet would be to use maybe alcohol and baking soda. If anything just use baking soda. Which is a neutralizing agent.
this video is sponsored by Sony
"ah shit,here we go again"
Don't be a Busta
2 numba 9ines
And also who cares about the 1st xbox
@@spartanicnomad1301 some of the people who clicked on the video?
You might as well replace all of the electrolytic capacitors at this time since you have it open already. Also, make sure to mind the polarity. Make sure the + and - lead from the capacitors go back in the same holes or you might have an exciting mini-explosion inside your XBox.
Seriously. Reckless to not point this out in the video
Thank you for sharing this. Was very good to know.
I was given a original xBox and just took it apart and found that it still had the SuperStor cap in it.
From inspection it had not started leaking yet, but I removed it anyway.
Over the years I have found many issues with the capacitors from that time going bad on many types of devices. Normally the big issue on PC motherboards on their VRM's for the CPU.
I wonder what other consoles and arcade machines that could have these same issues.
Completed removal this morning using the wiggle method. I've been meaning to do this for years after my friends xbox failed. But as the machine was still working, I kept putting it off. There was some leakage on the underside of the cap, cleaned off with IPA. My Xbox is off more than it's on so the idea of retaining the time (for any length of time) doesn't particularly appeal to me. Thanks for the video.
Two years ago I cut it out when I soft-modded and installed a 750GB HDD in it. It was in pristine condition, but would not want to risk it.
Let me guess its the CMOS battery?
Edit: I was pretty close damnit. I tried.
It's in the thumbnail
@@spikefallyt3350 I have only just noticed that lmfao
i think capacitors
How can a CMOS battery rot a circuit board? If anything worse case scenario is that they die and that time/date if not along with BIOS settings if you have a computer will be constantly forgotten each time you restart your device.
@@damian9303 the same way batteries left in a old device can destroy things
Had those issues too with mine.
Changed the 2,5V 1F capacitor with a 10F type and soldered wires between it to the motherboard to have the capacitor accessable under the top cover near the HDD.
Had even to swaped all the silver 1500uF 6,3V ones since one out of them had popped and sprayed electrolyte under the DVD-drive.
Then as an extra mod, swiched the HDD to an SSD at 512GB with an SATA-to-IDE adapter, homebuilt IDE male-to-male socket (cutted out from two defective harddrives) to plug the adapter in to the cable and used Chimp harddrive cloner.
Now I have all of my games on it (like +100), boots fast and has worked flawlessly for the past 4 years since then.
And as a tip, those who's thinking of changing the 40-lead IDE cable to an 80-lead for faster speed, it is not worth it since it will cause problems when using SSD's with adapters. The 80-leads are adressed to a specific order by the sockets (if you didn't knew), wheras 40-leads are not.
The new Xbox series X claims to have backwards compatibility to all pre-versions.
Let's see about that.😄
I recently hardmodded 2 original Xboxes and I knew you’d talk about the clock capacitor. Not to mention that pretty much every other original component is failing at this point, HDD, DVD drive, etc.
Dude you literally got me feeling so worried for my xbox.
Go check the manufacturing Date
@@adrenaliner91 Or just open it up and look at the capacitors... Even if it is a later date one your other capacitors may be leaking too
@@Alobster1 Hmm I have 2 Original Xboxes latest version. I hope they are fine because I seriously break capacitors just by looking at them...
Was it made before 2004?
Changed them that same year. I don't use it but it's nice to have.
I finally decided to crack mine open because of this video. The stickers on the bottom were intact and in mint condition so I know it was never done. Sure enough, the guts of that capacitor were all over the board. However, it was just a gross oily layer. No signs of any corrosion at all. I wonder why some capacitors contents cause damage and others dont. An interesting side-note about capacitor plague is that there is some evidence to suggest that it was caused by an employee stealing the formula for the electrolyte from his Japanese employer but accidentally writing it down wrong. Later, after a move to Taiwan, he started a company and began manufacturing caps using the incorrectly copied formula which ultimately lead to a worldwide epidemic of faulty hardware.
Your story definately fits with my experience, I fixed many computers from the 80's through till today, and I'll just say I have hardware with capacitors that is like 40 years old that have virtually no issues. It was indeed about as of the year 2003 or so up until like maybe 2010 when I started regularly seeing these same style of capacitors gunking out over and over again, and yet I have much older computers that all the capacitors are still fine. I highly suspected there was a formulation error in these capacitors and your story was the first hint I was on the right track.
In my case the crossover acid was really just under the clock cap with the oily gunk all around it.
Opened my 2003 Xbox today (Jan ‘23) and mine was in totally perfect condition but since you said it’s only the 1.6 that is unaffected (manufactured 2004) and mine was manufactured 2003 I removed it anyway. Just as easy as you described. Gave peace of mind because I wanna be able to play these games with the kids on original hardware and not have to buy a new machine. And since I won’t be transporting the machine anywhere it doesn’t matter if the clock has to be reset due to unplugging or a power outage.
I would do this, but i dont really like taking apart electronics becuase im to scared that i will break it or lose something
same, im scared to break my xbox.
its better than it breaking itself lol
@@Louca1 I just did it, i was succesful!!
@@youngharambe10 nice!
''You don't need any electronic knowledge at all''
*proceeds to make a thermonuclear bomb*
he just desoldered a capacitor, that's nothing complicated
*A T O M B O M B B A B Y*
My Xbox 360 has a life time warranty on it for some reason. I just put in my gamertag with my info and it's free to fix. I had to send it in last year and I thought it would cost me money because it's such an old console, but after three times in the stretch of 10 years, evidently I have a product that has a life time warranty on it.
how the hell
Yes what company has that warranty?
@@sammalone3369 Microsoft believe or not. Maybe its because I use my Gamertag.
that's most likely dued to the debacel of the red ring of death. the 360 is notorious for making massive minus for microsoft as they had to give extremely extended warranties to keep their image intact
Opened up my 1.6b Xbox this year, and checked all the caps. All looking good. Which is nice.
Opened the modded 1.0 Xbox as well, and it still had the cap, and it had started to leak. Isopropyl cleaned it nicely, and while I had it open, took apart the Thompson CD rom drive which was having issues ejecting. Lithium greased the slide eject mechanism and gears. Both still boot, load up burnout3 disk fine, and that eject is now butter smooth. Really should have done this earlier.
Thank you very much! I just opened my xbox up and... YEP under the capacitor were signs of leakage. I think i got it out before any real damage was done. So again THANK YOU!!!
We only have to remove 1 capacitor and not all of them?
You have to check first, to be sure, replace all the capacitors.
It depends entirely on the actual type of capacitor and the brand. I've been repairing electronics for the last 5 years and I can say with certainty that not all capacitors are created equal. Not only are there many different types of capacitors (electrolytic, polyester, tantalum, ceramic, etc), there's even subtypes of a few of these main types. In this particular case, the clock capacitor in specific is a special kind of supercapacitor that uses aerogel carbon as its active material. So this is an electrolytic capacitor, but it's also classified as a supercapacitor or EDLC, and it goes even further by using an exotic active material. This is already wildly different from what you would have in a typical bog-standard electrolytic capacitor, which will most likely just be an aluminum based dielectric. They basically needed a supercapacitor that was the size of a typical electrolytic, and the aerogel carbon was probably the best way to get that kind of energy density at the time.
It's always awful when any electrolytic capacitor eventually vomits all over the board, but the reason why this one is so dangerous is because its nuzzled right up against a lot of very important, very critical circuitry. I don't actually know a single thing about the Xbox's circuits, but it looks to me like there's quite a few FETs in the immediate area around the clock capacitor. I would expect that these FETs are responsible for generating a lot of the voltage rails necessary for vital functions, like powering important chips to make the thing actually work. If the fluid leaks over any of these, it will slowly destroy the traces connecting them to the rest of the Xbox, and possibly even destroy the FETs themselves. Bye-bye voltage rails, bye-bye working Xbox. Hello a lot of work to repair damaged traces.
The fact that this is an exotic capacitor doesn't really matter. What matters is the location. Even if it were a typical electrolytic, you would probably want to replace it due to the proximity to all of those FETs.
POWERSTOR
AEROGEL
@@spartan456 lol
I love how I took mine apart, just to find out it was a newer model.
Gold Yoshi you didn’t take time to watch the video lol
RsDefcon the last model revision doesn’t have the flawed components.
@the Game, Review and Reallife Channel How dumb can you be?
You should know, that before you start calling others "dumb", you should know if YOU are dumb as well.
"How dumb have a human to be..."
I am assuming you meant:
"How dumb can a human be?"
And the person who you're talking to made a mistake. (Or it could've been a joke, so r/woosh, b*tch)
If someone made a mistake because they value their safety doesn't mean they're stupid, but smarter than you, to open a device before it leaks acid everywhere, and to have better knowledge of the English language.
Please stop using TH-cam if you're a 5 year old.
@@frostz1100 get HIM
@the Game, Review and Reallife Channel as dumb as you.
Great info! You could have used the DISS ASSEMBLE JOHNNY5 video in there I think. And way to go pronouncing sold er ing so well.
This video: YOUR XBOX IS IN DANGER
Me who doesn't have an Xbox: 𝘆𝗲𝘀
PSA: Old things that you have will dissolve
good things that emulation exist so the video games legacy will live on
until Nintendo takes down all the rom sites
You're my favorite youtuber mate. Found you through the win98 on laptop video, but I watched some of the older videos too (like the Shrek series which was great). Love watching smart people do interesting things with good jokes around :)
"Maczak"
Me: mAtChInG nAmE
Fighting the same issue in the electronics in my '93 Toyota MR2. I had to replace caps in the ECU, Tachometer, and Speedometer to keep them working well.
this is actually how the Turbografx-CD and TurboDuo kept saved games, except the capacitor in that case could last about a month. in a sense you could keep the game save indefinitely, as long as you occasionally powered on the system briefly to "recharge" the capacitor.
I can attest to the poor 2000s capacitors. I resell old tech as a side business and the amount of Windows XP Dells (specifically Dimensions) that had brown gunk leak out of their Caps really pissed me off. The other computers in my experience were okay for the most part though. Capacitors in general are kind of scary and after having one blow up in an old restoration TV set I can never trust those tubes again as they age. Don't even get me started on the wax caps in my older sets that literally melt when they stop working.
capacitors in general are not 'scary' , i find most pre late 90's electrolytic types , to the mid 60's very reliable, waxy caps, yes, they go bad if used across high voltages, , i've certainly come across a fair bit of 'capacitor plague' afflicted equipment from 2000 ish, one neighbours computer barely lasted a couple of years before they blew out, they were a right pain to replace
@@andygozzo72 Yes, but some late 1980s tech also used very bad and prone to leaking SMD electrolytic caps. They are very common in old Macintosh hardware from that era, and will need to be recapped on sight. Also some radial type Low ESR capacitors from that era are also starting to leak. If you don't have means to repair these boards, the best thing is to stick them in dishwasher every few years to wash the acid leaking from the bottom of the caps.
@@andygozzo72 i agree, i have a TON of pentium 4 motherboards with blown capacitors..... piece of shit...
@@pocketanime u dunno about late 80s smd electrolytics, i havent come across many things using them...
hmm, there certainly were a few 'issues' with bad caps in the late 80s, but mostly in the 90's (loads of colour portable tvs) and of course, 2000's .. but overall with 'normal' rated caps, and if they werent 'cooked', they lasted ok, most of my 'vintage' transistor radios have their originals in, still good...
I've never been more thankful to own a 1.6
I literally almost did surgery on mine before I realized I also had a 1.6
@@dogman9822 nice, coulda been a murder
Just a little trivia to add in 2022, the clock capacitor on a 1.6 is indeed not as notorious. However, recently I've been encountering a lot of 1.6 boards that won't boot due to those capacitors near the CPU/GPU failing. While it obviously can happen to 1.0-1.5 boards, I've seen those capacitors much more prone to failure on the 1.6. There are 5 instead of 3 on the 1.6 and they have a different value from the previous revisions. If anyone takes on that repair, make sure you check the values on the sides of your existing capacitors before buying replacements, and pay attention to the orientation of how the old ones come out. Capacitors are polarized, so you need to make sure the stripe on the side faces the same way as the originals when replacing them.
i have a 1.1 that revs up its fan and stays spinning after pressing the power or eject button. no lights. no eject functionality working.
the caps arent bulging or leaking. should i replace them anyways?
@@vgrepairs it couldn't hurt to try it, as long as you make sure to replace with the same value capacitors. They're pretty cheap, and electrolytic capacitors from that time period are usually just waiting to die one way or another.
Part of me wants to revel in the fact that many xbox consoles are slowly dying but as a electronics hobbyist i know any old console with electrolytic caps are doomed to fail eventually.
another part of me wants to warn people and fix the problem. its not really a fix if your taking a functional part off and not replacing it.
i been replacing the caps in a 1929 radio. caps in general are problematic in that they are generally the first to go.
come caps actually last just as long as any other solid component. ceramic or poly caps. electrolytic or any cap with an electrolyte have a "short" life in comparison.
THANK YOU for saving my Xbox 🙏It was leaking but luckily I managed to clean everything up and desolder the capacitor. Also I replaced those 3, because they were a little bubbled up.
I'll make sure to replace/-move that too when I replace the 5(!) bulging Nichicons I saw when I fixed with the tray
I had actually kept my original but when I heard about these issues I sold mine, and bought a fresh one that was completely replaced, new belt drive, etc. It purs when I play a game, just so much quieter than the 360. I still play NCAA 08 on this pretty regularly
To this day, I still just wiggle the caps off the pliers. Sorta makes me wonder if original Xboxes might skyrocket in value someday even more than they already have (the days of 12 dollar Xboxes at Goodwill are largely over now that Xbox bundles sell for nearly 100 bucks on ebay).
Matt keep at it bro. You make great content and I would love to see your channel grow dude. Hellz yeah bro.
Is this also the case with Debug Xboxes as well?
I note you replaced Nichicon HM with PW...this is a suboptimal swap as your PW caps have much higher ESR compared to a working HM. Direct swaps are no longer possible however because the HM and related HA, HN and HZ parts are discontinued since the industry moved to polymer caps long ago which are even lower ESR. I recommend Panasonic FM, FR or FJ series for applications calling for Nichicon HM. Nichicon HW also seems to work well. All of these recommendations are imperfect subs but superior to the PW for mainboard VRM applications.
great video! I removed the already leaking capacitors today (got this as a gift). need to replace the power supply so I will be opeing this up again in a few days. any chance you can provide a link for the capacitors used (the three you replaced)?
I got real worried cause my Serial number was absolutely torn up and worn away, but I was able to identify it as a 1.6b. Thank you very much for making this video! Hopefully it saves many Xboxes out there
Dry joints are the demise of most old electronics, most use tin and lead which with age will separate and cause a dry joint,bang . Some very rare and expensive kit does use pure silver.
It's really amazing how many people still think those 'Warranty Void if..." removed/open stickers are actually legal or enforceable, because in the US at least, they are not.
(see: magnuson moss warranty act, 1975)
needs more likes
Good video ,
I have such an XBOX (/from a relative) , all 4 caps are bad: the clock one & 3 south of the CPU near the (PC-) DC-Power from PSU
You didn't even replace The capacitor?!?! My OCD is killing me.... 😂
Just discovered this channel today, so subbed to it and unlike any other TH-camr, your voice is actually pleasant to listen to!
Love the vids, love the TH-camr, I'm a loyal follower now :x
I have been putting this off for years, finally removed the Xbox (version 1.3) from storage 2 days ago and removed the faulty components just now. The battery was like brand new, no leaks and the 3 capacitors were slightly bulged but no leaks. Lucky as can be! Thanks MattKC!
I found an OG Xbox that I think is over 1.6, and the three capacitors you mentioned near the end of the video seem to have corrosion, or acid leaking from the top.
I don't have a soldering tool, nor much experience with taking apart electronics. Though I love tinkering with them.
Anyway, is there any hope for the Xbox?