I agree with you that managing your parts and budget is important. I had a full suspension replacement earlier this year on my LBZ. It’s a work truck but I went with Kryptonite and a PSC gear box. The price of OEM from the dealer has just gone crazy, and I want something aftermarket that would handle the loads. I’ve been please with everything. I don’t get the larger turn radius with the Krytonite front end package but it is rock solid. The PSC gear box has made a huge difference from the old stock. Never tried the red or blue top I just didn’t want to take the chance with a reman.
We just ordered the PSC. Unfortunately, after going through 2 redheads and both started leaking after 6 months. We replaced all the front suspensions with everything Kryptonite the 1st gear box. Instead of going back to Redhead or switching to whats seams to be same gear box as blue top. So hopefully it wont leak in 6 months like the other 2. 02 lb7 We tow a lot with the truck. It backs up heavily trailer all the time. None lifted with just little bigger tires it will allow without lift and zero rub at full lock.
What about AGR?! I had a ‘97 Chevy ext cab short bed 1/2 ton that I did a solid axle one ton conversion on. Chevy side dana 60 front, Detroit and 5:23 gears with chromo Yukon shafts. Np205 with 203 doubler adapted to the 4l60e with advance adapters. It was lifted about 14-16” on 42” swampers. So obviously steering was an issue. With the dana 60 high steer arms from ballistic fab. DOm and hiem joint ends for the steering. I went thru quite a few steering gears. Finally I spent the money on an AGR hydro ram assist and I never had another issue. Literally 1 finger steering with 42” swamped bogers! Steering was flawless. It was the best kit I ever did, I wish I had done it way earlier and saved myself so much hassle and time, swaping out cheap Napa reman steering boxes, some times two in a week. They all Leaked! They were junk. I’ve heard PSC was supposed to be better than AGR. The agrs have bigger sector shaft bearing. And double seals on the sector shaft. Now on my secound gen dodge ‘02 24v HO 6 speed I have now, I still have the stock OW steering boxes, but I installed the steering gear brace which helps tremendously with sector shaft play and it getting side loaded causing it to leak. That’s literally all tha TDS happening is the sector shaft is getting side loaded when you turn the wheels with over sized tires. It wears on the deal and the bearing causing leaks. On my soldi axle ‘97 Chevy I could literally have a buddy turn the steering wheel back and forth and watch as th e sector shaft turned it would get side loaded and cause it to move back and forth in its bore, and every time I moved it would drip past the seal. K could literally watch it drip every time it moved, drip drip drip. The steering gear brace makes the sector shaft rotate on a bearing, and it braced the front frame horns and keeps them from walking back and forth from steering pressure. I fought it on my solid axle ‘97 Chevy also, the fix was a big burly bumper and some frame reinforcement! The frames on these trucks are so flimsy. You start adding lift kits and bigger tires you can totally watch the frames flex when the tires are moved back and forth! A big thing is not to turn your wheels at a dead stop. It’s really hard on your steering components, and it translates a lot of unnecessary force thru the steering. Always try to have the wheels rolling when turning sharp. It helps tremendously! Especially with bigger wider tires. The stock steering is not ment for bigger wider tires! Big tires kill steering and suspension! The steering gear brace on my ‘02 secound gen dodge is the key to making your steering tight and not like a marshmallow. I have zero issues with my stock oe box and I’m running 33x12.50’s on big wide rockstar wheels, so there’s a lot of tire contact with the asphalt. Having the end of the sector shaft supported by a greaseable bearing helps with the side loading on the sector shaft that causes these issues. I’ve done a lot of research on this over the years building my ‘97 Chevy solid axle truck, and a handful of first gen dodge Cummins trucks, and OBS 1/2 ton Chevy step sides and a two door ‘98 Tahoe. You get to know the chassis and platform they’re built in really well! But again, what about AGR?! I had complete success and great things to say about my AGR hydrolic ram assist kit I put in my ‘97 Chevy solid axle setup. I also did the high pressure agr pump that they recommended. I used the special racing power steering fluid they sent, stuff was like $25 dollars a quart or something crazy. Haha. The kit installed nice and easy, like you said putting on a steering gear isn’t rocket science. Figuring out how I wanted to mount hydrolic ram to the tie rod and to the axle was the hardest part. I basically got some tabs and brackets and welded tabs to my tire rod and to the cover on the dana 60 and gusseted and reinforced everything real nice. Nice clean penetrating welds. And it worked flawlessly. Then you gotta make your high pressure hydraulic lines, cut them to length and install the high pressure ends and fittings. The steering box came pre drilled. I always said if I gotta put a box in my ‘02 dodge Cummins truck I’m gunna make sure it’s pre drilled and taped for hydrolic ram assist, it’s something they can easily do at the factory and just cap the fittings off till indecide I want to go crazy on the dodge and install a 20” lift kit and run 44” seam per bogers. My steering box will already be drilled and tapped for hydrolic ram assist lines! Haha! But ya just wondering why everyone’s always over looking AGR?! That hydrolic ram assist kit wasn’t cheap. It was $1000 or more and that was sheesh, back in 2008-‘09 lol. So awhile ago when things weren’t stupid stupid expensive.
Daily work 02 1500 extended cab leveled on 33s. Got irritated with the bump steer on uneven pavement. With slightly worn tires it’s scary how it will pull u off the road. Replaced my gear box with blue top after 6months 1st leaked. 3months on warranty box bumpsteer returned. Replaced it with a psc box n pump best money I ever spent. My truck never felt better turn my 33s like street tires it maybe expensive but the peace of mind and performance is worth the cost.
I have a 2010 chevy i use for work everyday on lease roads. I bought the kryptonite and i have stopped using them for ball joints. The hubs have been good thus far but i went through a ball joint every 2 months. The tie rod ends have been decent. But i have been through a couple steering boxes and this helped me make up my mind about the blue top. Also does anyone have any opinion on steering pumps?
Replacing parts on junk I bought dead from a junk yard and daily drive is a price I have decided I will gladly pay over having newish modern vehicles with loans, etc. I will never go back, having been on both sides of the coin for a while. And when I buy vital parts instead of rebuilding them I go with the best I can. Just grabbed a redhead for my 74 f350 resurrection. Even if It starts leaking in a year and a half, I would rather replace seals on that thing than careen off the road with my stock unit or pay more than it costs to feed my family just to pay for an auxiliary vehicle's payments, nevermind maintenance and insurance.
Hey brother so I just bought a 96’ 12 valve manual trans fully restored that has carli lift and suspension. Epic buy. But I need a new gear box. lol is redhead solid ? I have 35s on the truck now.
I put one on a 97 dodge ram with 35's on it hoping to get more solid steering and it wasn't enough noticeable difference over the old box. rather disappointed.
@@tomb374 exactly. I also put mine on my 97 2500 after I completely rebuilt everything else in the front end. It still steers like shit. Every thing else is new and tight and and you can definitely tell that the red head still has slop. Not only that but it started leaking out of the pitman arm shaft seal at just over a year with only 5k miles.
@@JohnDoe-ud2cc have you seen this yet. I had to answer yes to all the defects with the steering column th-cam.com/video/xwAhiNX2pL0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Ps2LRM5RC9tKUYDe
Any opinions on Lares vs Edelmann? I'm surprised at the amount of internet drama over bluetop and redhead. I was leaning towards bluetop - site now says looking for more help - but at this point I think I'm going to pull the trigger on a new Lares or an Edelmann for my K1500 GMT800 that I plan to keep until it literally breaks in half. I'm only running 1" bigger than stock tires, but I've already gone through a few boxes. I would have gone with NAPA pre-corona, but now I don't know... I'm a tech and order my own parts and I just don't trust anything from the parts stores anymore for rebuilt parts. GM part is discontinued - I was going to go that route originally. I will say that both bluetop and redhead were the most responsive to messages, responding the next morning after an evening email. And that was to answer my silly questions about possibly upgrading to a different OEM gearbox - BUT, they both gave me totally different answer, haha. Borgeson said to contact PSC, who does not list one for my truck. PSC and Edelmann and Lares have not yet answered but it's only been about 24 hours, so we'll say. I need to pull the trigger on something now - my box is super sloppy and irresponsibly adjusting the lash did not help whatsoever so I put it back where it was. I was fighting the wheel on my four hour drive the other weekend, everything is tight to and from the gear, and I aligned it myself - I really want it perfect again - this truck used to handle so amazing. I also just went to Sumitomo Encounter ATs, E rated, 1" bigger than my previous stock P rated tires and the blue and yellow Bilsteins in the front (primarily a road vehicle) to complement my new-used nivomats in the rear. The LT tires might not ride quite as nice, but these ATs are actually more confidence inspiring on the road over my previous highway tires, and I love the reduced sway/squish. With new jounce bumpers installed up front along with several other things (mostly rubber parts, including body mounts), I'm loving it but my steering is so sloppy. Very excited to get it perfect again, especially with my first transmission rebuild in it and shifting so nice. For me this truck is the perfect daily driver utility vehicle - plus my family has owned it since new and I grew up with it. If I need a tow vehicle in the future, I'll still take a look at the big block 8.1 trucks or possibly even a diesel as an additional vehicle, but my goodness the price for a nice one.... But anyways, yeah I love my GMT800 while also totally understanding your sentiment. I do need more power though... Anyways, if anyone has any input on Lares or Edelmann, please chime in! Thanks for the video!
Edelmann customer scvc line is very good. They also have a 1M mile warranty, so there's that. Replacing a Napa 'Lifetime warranty' box that was bought in 2017. Leaking and has become a sloppy mess. Edelmann is made in China though, so there's that.
@jackbauer4186 I still have an Edelman box I put in after I made that comment. Unfortunately, I got four or five bad pitman arms before sourcing the last OEM arm that I could find anywhere. Then, when I finally got it up and going, I have some noise from the power steering system that was not there with the old box. Most noticeable overcenter and when making parking lot speed maneuvers. I also had some play left in the steering. Albeit, it was better. I ended up finding and repairing a loose coupler in the steering column, which greatly improved things, but since then, it's loosened up a bit more. I've checked and triple checked it and there's certainly some play in the box After looking over every component many times. If I ever get caught up again and get some free time, I will reach out to Edelmann and try to update with how that goes.
@@jackbauer4186 The included paperwork specifically said not to, and it is paint-marked, so no. Edit: I did also feel the turning torque before installing, and it felt correct, although I did not use a torque wrench.
Man i been looking for a comparison of these two boxes and i cant find no one that actually buy one of each and take em apart to see which manufacturer is putting shit parts in em. Its all heresay
Great info!! When I looked at the NAPA warranty it was Limited Lifetime warranty. And the cost was $320. Just another alternative. They all have their disclaimers to cover their butt only. Keep up the video content. Super enjoy watching and learning other’s experiences.
Looking into these today on a truck build Im working on for my 07 classic 3500 LBZ. Considering the exorbitant price of PSC, I was leaning towards Bluetop but then-- Bluetop website states it is closing its doors permanently due to shortage of help... The say they will be accepting the core returns and helping with warranty issues but this would be concerning as to how long this will be adhered to. Sadly another one bites the dust.
@@chadrizla496 not on a GM truck, but on my 2005 ram 2500. Stock box was about shot, put a PSC on it a couple months ago and WOW..well worth the price tag.
@@chadrizla496 the steering is crazy tight with that psc, of course I did other upgrades at the same time, but still. Amazing results, you won't be disappointed. Buy once cry once is the strategy I went with 😂😂
Blue Top offers both New or Remanufactured. I just bought a new Gearbox, and OEM Pump combo for less than the Red Head. Thanks for the video.
I learned more in the comments, than in the video itself..
I agree with you that managing your parts and budget is important. I had a full suspension replacement earlier this year on my LBZ. It’s a work truck but I went with Kryptonite and a PSC gear box. The price of OEM from the dealer has just gone crazy, and I want something aftermarket that would handle the loads. I’ve been please with everything. I don’t get the larger turn radius with the Krytonite front end package but it is rock solid. The PSC gear box has made a huge difference from the old stock. Never tried the red or blue top I just didn’t want to take the chance with a reman.
We just ordered the PSC. Unfortunately, after going through 2 redheads and both started leaking after 6 months. We replaced all the front suspensions with everything Kryptonite the 1st gear box. Instead of going back to Redhead or switching to whats seams to be same gear box as blue top. So hopefully it wont leak in 6 months like the other 2.
02 lb7
We tow a lot with the truck. It backs up heavily trailer all the time. None lifted with just little bigger tires it will allow without lift and zero rub at full lock.
What about AGR?! I had a ‘97 Chevy ext cab short bed 1/2 ton that I did a solid axle one ton conversion on. Chevy side dana 60 front, Detroit and 5:23 gears with chromo Yukon shafts. Np205 with 203 doubler adapted to the 4l60e with advance adapters. It was lifted about 14-16” on 42” swampers. So obviously steering was an issue. With the dana 60 high steer arms from ballistic fab. DOm and hiem joint ends for the steering. I went thru quite a few steering gears. Finally I spent the money on an AGR hydro ram assist and I never had another issue. Literally 1 finger steering with 42” swamped bogers! Steering was flawless. It was the best kit I ever did, I wish I had done it way earlier and saved myself so much hassle and time, swaping out cheap Napa reman steering boxes, some times two in a week. They all
Leaked! They were junk. I’ve heard PSC was supposed to be better than AGR. The agrs have bigger sector shaft bearing. And double seals on the sector shaft. Now on my secound gen dodge ‘02 24v HO 6 speed I have now, I still have the stock OW steering boxes, but I installed the steering gear brace which helps tremendously with sector shaft play and it getting side loaded causing it to leak. That’s literally all tha TDS happening is the sector shaft is getting side loaded when you turn the wheels with over sized tires. It wears on the deal and the bearing causing leaks. On my soldi axle ‘97 Chevy I could literally have a buddy turn the steering wheel back and forth and watch as th e sector shaft turned it would get side loaded and cause it to move back and forth in its bore, and every time I moved it would drip past the seal. K could literally watch it drip every time it moved, drip drip drip. The steering gear brace makes the sector shaft rotate on a bearing, and it braced the front frame horns and keeps them from walking back and forth from steering pressure. I fought it on my solid axle ‘97 Chevy also, the fix was a big burly bumper and some frame reinforcement! The frames on these trucks are so flimsy. You start adding lift kits and bigger tires you can totally watch the frames flex when the tires are moved back and forth! A big thing is not to turn your wheels at a dead stop. It’s really hard on your steering components, and it translates a lot of unnecessary force thru the steering. Always try to have the wheels rolling when turning sharp. It helps tremendously! Especially with bigger wider tires. The stock steering is not ment for bigger wider tires! Big tires kill steering and suspension! The steering gear brace on my ‘02 secound gen dodge is the key to making your steering tight and not like a marshmallow. I have zero issues with my stock oe box and I’m running 33x12.50’s on big wide rockstar wheels, so there’s a lot of tire contact with the asphalt. Having the end of the sector shaft supported by a greaseable bearing helps with the side loading on the sector shaft that causes these issues. I’ve done a lot of research on this over the years building my ‘97 Chevy solid axle truck, and a handful of first gen dodge Cummins trucks, and OBS 1/2 ton Chevy step sides and a two door ‘98 Tahoe. You get to know the chassis and platform they’re built in really well!
But again, what about AGR?! I had complete success and great things to say about my AGR hydrolic ram assist kit I put in my ‘97 Chevy solid axle setup. I also did the high pressure agr pump that they recommended. I used the special racing power steering fluid they sent, stuff was like $25 dollars a quart or something crazy. Haha. The kit installed nice and easy, like you said putting on a steering gear isn’t rocket science. Figuring out how I wanted to mount hydrolic ram to the tie rod and to the axle was the hardest part. I basically got some tabs and brackets and welded tabs to my tire rod and to the cover on the dana 60 and gusseted and reinforced everything real nice. Nice clean penetrating welds. And it worked flawlessly. Then you gotta make your high pressure hydraulic lines, cut them to length and install the high pressure ends and fittings. The steering box came pre drilled. I always said if I gotta put a box in my ‘02 dodge Cummins truck I’m gunna make sure it’s pre drilled and taped for hydrolic ram assist, it’s something they can easily do at the factory and just cap the fittings off till indecide I want to go crazy on the dodge and install a 20” lift kit and run 44” seam per bogers. My steering box will already be drilled and tapped for hydrolic ram assist lines! Haha!
But ya just wondering why everyone’s always over looking AGR?! That hydrolic ram assist kit wasn’t cheap. It was $1000 or more and that was sheesh, back in 2008-‘09 lol. So awhile ago when things weren’t stupid stupid expensive.
TH-cam RED allows you to listen to a video while the phone is locked
Daily work 02 1500 extended cab leveled on 33s. Got irritated with the bump steer on uneven pavement. With slightly worn tires it’s scary how it will pull u off the road. Replaced my gear box with blue top after 6months 1st leaked. 3months on warranty box bumpsteer returned. Replaced it with a psc box n pump best money I ever spent. My truck never felt better turn my 33s like street tires it maybe expensive but the peace of mind and performance is worth the cost.
I have a 2010 chevy i use for work everyday on lease roads. I bought the kryptonite and i have stopped using them for ball joints. The hubs have been good thus far but i went through a ball joint every 2 months. The tie rod ends have been decent. But i have been through a couple steering boxes and this helped me make up my mind about the blue top. Also does anyone have any opinion on steering pumps?
PSC they are worth the extra for those.
What other choice do we have? I would have gladly spent $1k but they don't make a box for a 94 K1500
I'll spend the money to not have to replace the part in the future. Looks like Blue Top is going to be my choice.
Replacing parts on junk I bought dead from a junk yard and daily drive is a price I have decided I will gladly pay over having newish modern vehicles with loans, etc. I will never go back, having been on both sides of the coin for a while. And when I buy vital parts instead of rebuilding them I go with the best I can. Just grabbed a redhead for my 74 f350 resurrection. Even if It starts leaking in a year and a half, I would rather replace seals on that thing than careen off the road with my stock unit or pay more than it costs to feed my family just to pay for an auxiliary vehicle's payments, nevermind maintenance and insurance.
94 dodge ram 1500 i have blue top steering gear box to put i went with blue top for quality and red head had alot of bad reviews too
Hey brother so I just bought a 96’ 12 valve manual trans fully restored that has carli lift and suspension. Epic buy. But I need a new gear box. lol is redhead solid ? I have 35s on the truck now.
I feel that my redhead was not as tight as it should have been.
I put one on a 97 dodge ram with 35's on it hoping to get more solid steering and it wasn't enough noticeable difference over the old box. rather disappointed.
@@tomb374 exactly. I also put mine on my 97 2500 after I completely rebuilt everything else in the front end. It still steers like shit. Every thing else is new and tight and and you can definitely tell that the red head still has slop. Not only that but it started leaking out of the pitman arm shaft seal at just over a year with only 5k miles.
@@JohnDoe-ud2cc have you seen this yet. I had to answer yes to all the defects with the steering column th-cam.com/video/xwAhiNX2pL0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Ps2LRM5RC9tKUYDe
Most redheads that I’ve had wasn’t as tight as I would have liked for them to be either…
Any opinions on Lares vs Edelmann?
I'm surprised at the amount of internet drama over bluetop and redhead. I was leaning towards bluetop - site now says looking for more help - but at this point I think I'm going to pull the trigger on a new Lares or an Edelmann for my K1500 GMT800 that I plan to keep until it literally breaks in half.
I'm only running 1" bigger than stock tires, but I've already gone through a few boxes.
I would have gone with NAPA pre-corona, but now I don't know... I'm a tech and order my own parts and I just don't trust anything from the parts stores anymore for rebuilt parts.
GM part is discontinued - I was going to go that route originally.
I will say that both bluetop and redhead were the most responsive to messages, responding the next morning after an evening email. And that was to answer my silly questions about possibly upgrading to a different OEM gearbox - BUT, they both gave me totally different answer, haha.
Borgeson said to contact PSC, who does not list one for my truck.
PSC and Edelmann and Lares have not yet answered but it's only been about 24 hours, so we'll say. I need to pull the trigger on something now - my box is super sloppy and irresponsibly adjusting the lash did not help whatsoever so I put it back where it was. I was fighting the wheel on my four hour drive the other weekend, everything is tight to and from the gear, and I aligned it myself - I really want it perfect again - this truck used to handle so amazing.
I also just went to Sumitomo Encounter ATs, E rated, 1" bigger than my previous stock P rated tires and the blue and yellow Bilsteins in the front (primarily a road vehicle) to complement my new-used nivomats in the rear. The LT tires might not ride quite as nice, but these ATs are actually more confidence inspiring on the road over my previous highway tires, and I love the reduced sway/squish.
With new jounce bumpers installed up front along with several other things (mostly rubber parts, including body mounts), I'm loving it but my steering is so sloppy.
Very excited to get it perfect again, especially with my first transmission rebuild in it and shifting so nice.
For me this truck is the perfect daily driver utility vehicle - plus my family has owned it since new and I grew up with it.
If I need a tow vehicle in the future, I'll still take a look at the big block 8.1 trucks or possibly even a diesel as an additional vehicle, but my goodness the price for a nice one....
But anyways, yeah I love my GMT800 while also totally understanding your sentiment. I do need more power though...
Anyways, if anyone has any input on Lares or Edelmann, please chime in!
Thanks for the video!
Edelmann customer scvc line is very good. They also have a 1M mile warranty, so there's that. Replacing a Napa 'Lifetime warranty' box that was bought in 2017. Leaking and has become a sloppy mess. Edelmann is made in China though, so there's that.
@jackbauer4186 I still have an Edelman box I put in after I made that comment. Unfortunately, I got four or five bad pitman arms before sourcing the last OEM arm that I could find anywhere. Then, when I finally got it up and going, I have some noise from the power steering system that was not there with the old box. Most noticeable overcenter and when making parking lot speed maneuvers. I also had some play left in the steering. Albeit, it was better. I ended up finding and repairing a loose coupler in the steering column, which greatly improved things, but since then, it's loosened up a bit more. I've checked and triple checked it and there's certainly some play in the box After looking over every component many times. If I ever get caught up again and get some free time, I will reach out to Edelmann and try to update with how that goes.
@@ClaytheBMXer have you tried tightening the box?
@@jackbauer4186 The included paperwork specifically said not to, and it is paint-marked, so no.
Edit: I did also feel the turning torque before installing, and it felt correct, although I did not use a torque wrench.
Man i been looking for a comparison of these two boxes and i cant find no one that actually buy one of each and take em apart to see which manufacturer is putting shit parts in em. Its all heresay
Great info!! When I looked at the NAPA warranty it was Limited Lifetime warranty. And the cost was $320. Just another alternative. They all have their disclaimers to cover their butt only. Keep up the video content. Super enjoy watching and learning other’s experiences.
Ya I am a big fan of the Napa ones! Really can’t go wrong with those ones
Looking into these today on a truck build Im working on for my 07 classic 3500 LBZ. Considering the exorbitant price of PSC, I was leaning towards Bluetop but then-- Bluetop website states it is closing its doors permanently due to shortage of help... The say they will be accepting the core returns and helping with warranty issues but this would be concerning as to how long this will be adhered to. Sadly another one bites the dust.
Damn that’s crazy I just looked too what a shame that is.
There website is still working
PSC, the end.
Agreed!
Do you have one?? I hear really good things about them vs the others.
@@chadrizla496 not on a GM truck, but on my 2005 ram 2500. Stock box was about shot, put a PSC on it a couple months ago and WOW..well worth the price tag.
Nice man! Thanks for the feedback
@@chadrizla496 the steering is crazy tight with that psc, of course I did other upgrades at the same time, but still. Amazing results, you won't be disappointed. Buy once cry once is the strategy I went with 😂😂
Commenting for support!
🤘
This is serious talk for us GM IFS guys
Absolutely!
Gibberish galore 😂
Millennials Rambling...
Ramble ramble. Can’t take it
It is a podcast episode 👍