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Hello Thomas, very well made and clear. Just a little remark. I wished the heat management section would demonstrate a "cool" vs "hot" camera sample side by side. Perhaps something to add to the written article ? Thanks for the good video
Thanks for the kind words! Regarding your suggestion: great idea, I'll definitely look into that. Fun fact: it is currently quite cold in Austria, and it is actually difficult to get the OM-1 to higher temperatures. This is usually a bigger issue in summer. All in all, the OM-1 has good heat management, the mirrorless heat issue is more pronounced in larger sensor cameras. Thanks again for the comment and suggestion!
Thank you Thomas for making such a complex subject so simple and clear! Takes a Viennese to talk in plain simple English to help us Brits understand this subject. 😃
I am here to report that once again, Thomas is absolutely correct in his analysis. Using his recommendations from this video, I took a 1200 ISO photo with my OM1 and completed basic RAW adjustments with Workspace (Mac) and the same on Lightroom. The resulting difference was glaringly obvious: Workspace produced the same image with less noise, more detail and better color - not to mention at the cheapest possible price! It’s just a pity it runs so slowly. Regardless, I will drop Lightroom and practice patience instead as the differences are so plain.
Your channel is wonderful. Thank you for keeping things simple and leaving out tedious music tracks and click-bait titling. I'm sure I'm not alone is preferring clear, instructive, and enlightening videos. It's a wonderful resource, and we're lucky to have you creating these.
Your discussion of how the OM1 is split into three different sensitivity bands was eye opening. I've never heard of conventional dslr's doing this. Excellent information, and I look forward to watching the rest of your videos.
Many thanks! There are indeed also older cameras and DSLRs which behave similarly and feature more than one ADC-stage. But yes, the OM-1 with its three stages is quite exceptional.
I appreciate that you often take the risk to make videos that discuss fairly niche subjects such as this, whilst most photography channels stick to very generic "latest" Canon/Nokia matters to maximise their viewership and income, which is likely due to YT's aggressive algorithm. I mean, I honestly didn't understand some of this video and none of it really applies to me since I don't own an Olympus system, but I think since I started watching your channel earlier this year that your channel has grown a lot, the comments you receive seem to suggest that your way of focusing on niche subjects is attractive to people who want more specialised information for less-common professional gear that other channels perhaps fail to offer, and your professional manner and tight editing certainly shows and makes for good viewing, whatever the topic. Wishing you well into 2023 and I hope your channel continues to grow as you strive to keep bringing us fresh and unique content!
Marcus, I'm humbled by this incredibly attentive comment - you are on of my absolute long-time viewers and I am so happy to see you around, even though I'm currently dealing with topics that are not directly related to your photography gear or practices. I very much appreciate that and I'm very thankful for that. I have got some news, though: I recently purchased a Canon 5D classic finally, so I am also able to experience and talk about these cameras as well. Thank you very much for your comment, can't be more grateful. Hope you have a wonderful 2022 holiday season and a positive, creative 2023 soon!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Hey, thanks. I have a Canon 6D, which is my only full-frame body. I would have been happy with either a 5D mkIII or a 6D when I was hunting for one (lightly-used so cheaper than new) and the 6D model just happened to come up first in an offer. But it's close enough, so am looking forward to what you have to say about it! I have read that there a lot of differences between a 5D and later 5D models, i.e. 5D mkII-mkIV, in terms of technical upgrades and software improvements, but that the original 5D is still quite popular because it has a klunkier, less-refined "classic" feel than later models to it which makes the user pay more attention to handling it than all the latest automated features demand on newer models. Which is probably what makes it more appealing to you, I'm guessing.
I just purchased the OM-1 and will arrive on Wednesday, 5-3-23. My previous camera ws an E-M5 Mkii purchased in 2018. It now is time to learn how to use this new camera! I will enjoy watching your series on the OM-1!!
Wow this knowledge is invaluable for an OM1 user I’m going to g to watch this again so I can understand it better but your explanation is so easy to understand Thank you so much I love your videos :)
Hallo Thomas, das ist doch mal eine verständliche Erläuterung dieses Themas. Nachher werde ich sofort die Einstellungen meiner OM-1 überprüfen, wo Anpassungen nach Deinen Empfehlungen erforderlich sind. Ich wünsche Dir Frohe Weihnachten und alles Gute für 2023, beste Grüße, Walter.
Vielen Dank für den netten Kommentar - es freut mich wirklich sehr, dass mein Video für dich nützlich war! Auch für Dich schöne Festtage und ein gutes neues Jahr - hoffentlich lesen bzw. sehen wir uns wieder hier auf TH-cam. Vielen Dank!
I’m newby OM1 owner from Thailand. Thank you Thomas for your clip was very helpful how to operate my OM1. You speak slowly that was so great for foriener like me to catch up what you explained and your example was easy to understand. Great channel.
I am one who appreciates your in depth understanding of the technology being discussed, and your incredibly clear and concise explanations. I have been shooting landscapes with my Canon 5D4, and love the classic DSLR functionality and user experience much as you describe it with your Nikon system. However, the weight of the system has begun to limit my choice of shooting locations. Currently I am enjoying the used Olympus Micro4/3rds camera and pro lenses I acquired this past year. Thank you for illuminating the finer points of the OM-1's noise reduction options. Your professionalism, your channel, are some of the best available.
Thank you very much for sharing your camera choices and experiences - it is very encouraging to meet like-minded individuals. I intend covering budget M43 options on this channel in the future, as soon as I got all the major aspects and functions of the OM-1 covered. Also, thanks for the kind, encouraging words - this is very much appreciated!
As always, good information -- thanks Thomas. I have used battery grips on all my cameras (except, of course, the Pen F), but never really considered the effect of minimizing heat build up -- thanks for pointing that out.
Hello Thomas, your videos are absolutely first class. I’m not yet a OM system owner but will consider it. Your videos can also be applied to other systems.
Thank you so much - I'm honored and thankful, I'll try my best to live up to your words! I've considered that - and I definitely want to offer things like that in the future!
Hi Thomas, really enjoying your videos and finding them so very useful. I had my OM1 overheat during the summer on a very hot day (twice) whilst using SH2 mode and/or Pro Capture. Your suggestion about the HLD-10 is very valid, although personally, for me it would somewhat spoil the M4/3 form factor of the camera. I have found that by enabling Airplane mode that reduces the heat generated by lessening the load on the battery. Also moving the screen out on it's hinge for a while helps!
Thank you very much for adding these tips and your kind words! It seems like summer time is DSLR-time haha. Jokes aside, the OM-1 is not very prone to overheating compared to other mirrorless cameras, however, in circumstances llike the ones you mentioned, there can be issues (also, when recording video under blazing sun for prolonged periods). You are right about the size with the HLD-10 - in a previous video on DSLRs in 2022, I talked about the difference (or lack thereof) in size and weight between mirrorless and DSLRs, what I stated there seems to also valid when comparing MILC 35mm with M43, I guess: camera bodies have a certain size, the real size and weight savers are the smaller lenses. Good thing is, that 99% of the time there is no issue with the OM-1 regarding overheating, so the HLD-10 is not a must. Thanks for the comment, so nice to have these conversations!
Hey Thomas, thanks for this. As a new owner of the OM1 and previously with EM 1 mk 3, I have been a bit baffled by noise reduction etc. Your clear explanations with a bit of the background principles is very helpful, and please do keep offering suggested or recommended settings because they are a great starting point at the least for me trying out.
Great to hear! There are more videos covering the OM-1 already on my channel, and I've got many more planned for the coming weeks - so thank you for your feedback, it is much appreciated and it helps me to provide what you want to hear/see. Thanks a lot, Malcolm!
Thomas, thank you for the most comprehensive overview of how to,cope with noise on the OM-1. Especially, the first part about ISO invariance gave new insights to me. The real game changer in dealing with high iso images, however, is DxO DeepPrime XD algorithms, which also operate at the demosaicing stage. The results are impressive so that ISO 12800 is not an issue for me anymore. DxO integrates well with Lightroom Classic as a plug-in. OM Workspace is too clumsy for me, so that I would not consider using it regularly.
Dear Thomas, thank you very much for your feedback regarding the video - I am very happy that it was helpful. Thanks for the recommendation in regards of software, I will test it! Best wishes from Vienna!
Thanks for an excellent presentation about how to reduce noise using the OM-1. Your suggestions are very helpful and I appreciate the information, which I have not found anywhere else. Please keep up the good work!
Thank you very much Gilbert - I'm glad you found it useful and I appreciate your kind words - more OM-1 specific videos are in the making to get the most out of this model 😊
Thank you, Thomas! This was extremely helpful and explains Noise in the OM-1 in a way I have never before seen discussed in print or videos. I will be using your recommendations.
I stumbled across your TH-cam channel a little over a month ago; your discussions on photography are consistently several steps ahead of what others are doing on their channels. I sincerely hope your subscription numbers, and resulting income, grow exponentially, as what you present is so useful. OK, I'm an OM-1 user, but still, your videos are so good! My only reservation about your videos has to do with the sound quality: as much as that wood back panel looks great, it bounces the sound back to your mic far too much. You might consider moving a bit further away from that back wall to improve the sound pressure ratio at the mic between your voice and the reflected sound from the wall behind you.
Thank you very much for your kind words - I am humbled and actually out of words. Regarding sound quality: You are absolutely right, it is an issue! Moving further away from the panels is an awesome idea - thanks for the tip! The "reverb" you are hearing is actually me using the Olympus LS-P4 without a pop protection, this is where this annoying vibrating sound comes from (which was impossible to remove in post without sounding like a robot). You won't believe how long it took me to figure this out. I even thought that my recorder was broken or something. In any case, future videos will have better audio quality - I'll do my best!
Thomas, you do an outstanding job of explaining complicated subjects and providing the best possible solutions to specific problems. Your videos are very professional and well done. Thank you!
Thank you very much for the appreciation! Well, I'm probably biased because I really like working with the OM-1. In any case, it is a very capable camera and I'm quite sure that you will like it a lot as well.
I am so glad that I happened to buy the same camera😂. I bought the OM1 because the love of OM film SLR cameras and honestly didn’t give this wonderful enough shooting time. Now I could learn!
Thank you very much! Indeed, I was considering including it, but decided to make a separate video on it in the future! Thank you very much for bringing this up and thanks for watching!
Love the grip suggestion. Using the grip and a tripod I often shoot with ProCapture and the remote so the camera stays on, never going into sleep mode, which means it gets hot. I can switch batteries easily enough so I'll try taking the battery in the body out. Another reason for a larger OM-1X! I also had no idea that the OM-1 was ISO variant. Great piece of information. FWIW I believe I have seen evidence of what you're saying. A couple of times I inadvertently lowered the ISO which forced me to push the exposure in post. The files were unusable as compared to the files shot at higher ISO (four stops?) using auto ISO.
I would be very interested in an OM-1X for the exact same reasons. It just makes sense! However, with the grip the OM-1's already good heat management is further improved, definitely worth the money I'd say. Thank you very much for your feedback and for sharing your invaluable experiences! All the best!
Thank you for explaining this...helps my understanding tremendously. I too only mildly understood this topic but now have a better understanding. And it took me a few viewings to get there like other folk. Purely from a technical understanding on my behalf, not your explanation of image noise which is superb !
Thanks again Gerry! I hope these tips will benefit your photography. For me, trying to avoid pushing files in post production really helped tremendously!
Another great video Thomas 😍 One thing that was unfortunately not made clear was “exactly how” these raw files are actually being “pushed”… By pushing, do you mean that instead of say raising the iso “4 stops worth”, instead we dial in an exposure compensation of +4 stops worth on the camera. Is this what you meant? Or you meant increasing the exposure during raw development within whatever raw converting software one uses… You would be an amazing OM Systems ambassador. And sharpest dressed one at that 😊
Sorry for the confusion! I meant increasing the exposure time during RAW development - I advise against that and recommend setting a higher ISO number instead (if needed, of course). Thank you for the encouraging comment and watching my videos, that is so awesome!
Excellent video, as always, as an engineer and photographer I especially appreciate your work! I have just one qualm, however, with your assertion that the battery generates heat and therefore the camera benefits from moving it into the grip. I've worked with Lithium Ion batteries extensively in my professional career and don't believe this to be the case for the discharge rates found in digital cameras. Perhaps you're referring to the heat generated by the internal circuitry when the battery is being charged?
Hi Thomas, Yet another very informative video! Keep them posting! For me the reason not to use OM Workspace is that it is a bit slow, I am also missing useful tools and my laptop does not have a supported GPU to benefit from the AI noise reduction. Currently I use DXO Photolab 6 elite, it is one of the best noise reduction software I am aware of. It closes the gap with larger sensor formats for me. When a 6400 iso shot is well exposed it is nearly as clean as an iso 200 image out of camera. Only thing is that it requires quite a powerful computer and takes in the highest quality setting (Deepprime XD) around 1 minute to complete. I also know at high iso and low light situations electronic shutter produce more signal noise than a mechanical shutter. I guess this won't be as much of a problem with the OM-1 sensor I think because of the bsi. I use electronic shutter exclusively, to keep the shutter count low.
Regarding OM Workspace - you are right, it is slow. What I like to do is batch process all my selects, just applying exposure compensation if needed. Then, I continue working on the TIFFs or JPEGs in other programs. I use mostly mechanical shutter as I often have to deal with flickering lights on location. I will compare the noise performance of these two shutter types in an upcoming video, thanks for this idea! Apart from these scenarios, I use the electronic shutter as well - although I do not worry too much about shutter life, the OM-1 is rated for 400.000, which is insane. Thank you very much for the comment and the valuable input - much appreciated!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography true the shutter would survive, only the secondhand value is really dependent on it. Although the replacement will be in the range of 150 euro. In case I want to upgrade and retain the max value in the future to an OM-1 II it matters.
Hi Thomas, after watching a few of your videos, I’ve learned more in two days about M3/4 and exposure, etc. than I did in the previous year of watching instructional videos on TH-cam. Thanks for the succinct way that you explain very complex principles. I switched from Nikon D780 to OM-D E-M1 III a few months ago and I’m thoroughly enjoying the new experience. I however miss my Nikon for what it had to offer….as an amateur photographer I couldn’t justify keeping both systems. I’m looking forward to watching and learning more fro your videos.
Thank you so much for your kind words! The D780 is a great camera and I can imagine that you miss it from time to time. I hope my future MFT videos will be to your liking as well! I think that the E-M1III is a future proof camera, a great tool just like the D780! Hear from you soon!
I appreciate the effort you put into this video. Well explained in plain English. I am finally convinced that OM 1 is worth investing it. Check out your coffee credits. I certainly will donate soon . Many thanks.
Thank you very much for the exceptionally kind words and generous donation! I am quite sure that you will like the OM-1 as much as I do. It is really my most used camera since I bought it, and rightly so. If you have any questions, feel free to get in touch! Thanks again!
Thank you for this video, Thomas. Clear and concise. Very useful. Another way of reducing battery-induced heat build-up is to run the camera from a power bank in your pocket via a USB-C cable, when engaged in an intense session (e.g. studio or astrophotography with dark-frame NR engaged). I shoot mainly wildlife with my OM-1 and portability is important at my age. I would not want the bulk and weight of the battery grip added to my walk-around kit. Battery life is so good that I don't need the extra reserves of the battery grip. I replace the in-camera battery if it becomes exhausted. Also, as good as the OM Workspace is purported to be, I will not use it because I run a Lightroom + AI denoising plug-in ecosystem for my work. Adding OM Workspace to that mix seems cumbersome. I would use OM denoising software if it was provided as a Lightroom plug-in. I'm a retired professional photographer.
The power bank is a great tip, I have not thought about that! Regarding OM Workspace, yes, it is cumbersome to "add in". I'm also constantly on the fence about it, as it can be a bit "lame" compared to other software options. Professionals like us value a "sleek" and fast workflow, I am totally with you. I'm thinking about sharing my "fast OM Workspace" workflow in a future video (it won't be as convenient as your workflow I'm afraid). Thanks for the contribution, much appreciated!
Thanks for the video. It is good to get an in-depth technical perspective on the OM-1, not just this video. I am a hobby bird photographer in Brisbane, Queensland. I use a Sony a7iv with the 100-400 GM with a x1.4 TC pretty welded to the lens. I chose this combination as the 200-600 is too heavy as a walk around kit for a septuagenarian with a bad shoulder. Shooting small moving birds even only 3-5m away still needs a good focal length combination and still requires cropping. Think wrens, robins and finches. With my 100-400 and x1.4TC I get 560mm at f8, FF, with my x2 TC I get 800 at f11, FF. With my x1.4TC in crop mode I can get equivalent to 840mm but image at
Thank you very much for the comment and your financial support. According to my experiences, the ISO-performance of the OM-1 is more than sufficient. For example, I've photographed fashion shows at ISO 12.800 with the OM-1 and the client was happy with the results (so was I). Most issues stem from people not exposing correctly and then they have to work the sliders in post, which will always deteriorate image quality. So I would not worry about that at all, to be honest. Also, some people stop down MFT lenses like crazy, although they should just use the smallest f number and use low ISO instead. This video might be of interest when it comes to low light: th-cam.com/video/jJQgJMCQJc8/w-d-xo.html Also, this one: th-cam.com/video/FVHTLFD_7o8/w-d-xo.html You also brought up cropping, and as you've already noticed no matter how big your sensor is, cropping is always reducing image quality. So if you use a system that gets the framing right, you will always be at an advantage. This video also tackles the cropping problem: th-cam.com/video/D1ezetEALk0/w-d-xo.html For your use cases, I'd say you cannot get a better camera than the OM-1. It is very compact, extremely fast and incredibly reliable. I can wholeheartedly recommend it, after more than a year of intense use. One of the best camera purchases I've ever made. Hope I was able to help! Feel free to follow up with questions or shoot me an e-mail. Best, Thomas
Hi Thomas, I hope you’re reading this after Christmas and I have not disturbed your Christmas. I have purchased the OM-1 and 100-400 kit and busy now learning. Your approach to teaching is good for me. Thank you. Just a question if I may. I was also considering getting a macro lens. I don’t see myself as becoming an expert but when there are not many birds about insects and other small wildlife interest me. As it would’ve used outdoors I probably can’t get too close and I was wondering if the 40-150 f2.8 could be a good choice. I would get some flexibility but not probably true 1:1 macro which is fine. The synced image stabilisation with the pro lens would also be good for hand holding. And it could be useful for close birds with or without a 1.4tc. Does this make sense, or what would you suggest? Thank you.
@tonyblake8841 great to hear! Well, I'd say that would make sense, as what you are describing is not macro in the strictest sense as you stated yourself. So indeed, I'd say that is a perfectly reasonable purchase decision - a future-proof purchase, if I may add. Best, Thomas 📸 One remark: the 40-150 has no image stabilization, so it cannot sync with the body (not a big deal as the OM has an excellent stabilizer)
Absolutely! The major difference is that these two fantastic cameras of yours have two instead of three ADC stages. That's about it! Glad you find the videos useful 🙂
Danke für das Wissen und die technische Beratung. Ich werde sie auch in meinem Om1 verwenden. Ich bin sehr zufrieden mit dieser Kamera, aber bitte, wenn Sie weitere Ratschläge haben, die wirklich nützlich wären, um sie in vollem Umfang und mit all ihrer Technologie zu nutzen! Danke aus Italien
Vielen Dank! Die OM-1 ist wirklich eine besondere Kamera, und ich bin ebenfalls sehr zufrieden. In den kommenden Wochen werden weiter Videos zur OM-1 folgen, ich hoffe Sie finden diese ebenfalls nützlich. Nochmals vielen Dank für den Kommentar und beste Grüße nach Italien!
Thank you for this information 1) is there an advantage of switching off the camera when not in use to avoid heating during non use 2) are there ratios for base iso above 200, for example 400, 800, etc that take advantage of system math 3) using picture profiles on JPEG versus relying completely on raw may save space time and processing especially if image processing internally is native to system hardware do you have any experience with this 4) is there a recommended computer configuration to run the latest version of om work space
Hey Kevin! 1) Yes, if you switch it off, you are keeping it even "cooler" 2) I am not quite sure what you mean, maybe you could re-phrase the question 3) If you expose correctly, only shootng JPEG can save time, you limit your post processing options quite a bit when doing so, unfortunately. 4) I would stick to the specifications recommended by OM System, see here: support.olympus-imaging.com/owdownload
Useful info! I wasn't aware of the issue with pushing raw files, or of the noise-inducing effect of taking a lot of images. (I knew about the problem with long exposures, though.) I had noticed, though, that exposing to the right of the histogram results in remarkably lower noise levels in things like skies, even when the image looks overexposed in the viewfinder. Better to bring the exposure down a bit in post than to push it.
Absolutely, Barry! In a recently published video, I talk about the dynamic range of the OM-1. Metering to just not overexpose the Highlights is a very useful technique. Thanks for the comment!
Hi Thomas. Danke für das gute Video. :) Ich hab ja selbst die OM-1 in Verwendung und grundsätzlich auch kein Problem mit dem Rauschen (mehr). Fotografiere ich Vögel, lasse ich inzwischen ohne Sorge den ISO auf Auto. Ist das Resultat nicht brauchbar, ist es immer meine Schuld, aber nie die der Kamera (zumindest, was das Rauschen angeht). Dass der Unterschied zwischen Kamera-ISO und nachträglich korrigierten RAW-File so groß ist, hätte ich übrigens nicht erwartet. Ich wusste, dass es einen Unterschied gibt, aber das sind ja Welten!
Vielen Dank für den netten, umfassenden Kommentar - freut mich immer sehr, dich hier begrüßen zu dürfen! Ich war ebenfalls von dem Unterschied überrascht und vermeiden seither so gut wie möglich, die Belichtung in der Nachbearbeitung anzuheben!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Auf jeden Fall werd ich da jetzt auch vermehrt drauf achten. Der Gedanke "Mach ich später in Lightroom" war bei mir schon noch präsent. Ich glaub, in Sachen Belichtung werd ich mich davon jetzt erst recht lösen. 😅
Ich sehe mir deine Videos gerne an, obwohl ich nur mit der OM-D E-M5 Mark III unterwegs bin. Aber viel von dem, was du zur OM-1 erklärst, kann ich auch auf die E-M5 anwenden. Ich benutze Olympus Workspace eher selten, weil ich meine Fotos seit Jahren in Lightroom nachbearbeite. Aber der Hinweis, das OM-Workspace für das OM-System maßgeschneidert ist, lässt mich mal darüber nachdenken, ob ich dieses Programm nicht öfter einsetzen sollte. Danke.
Vielen Dank für den Kommentar! Workspace ist definitiv einen Versuch wert. Ich habe einige Videos zum Einstieg ins Programm am Kanal. Viele Grüße, Thomas 📸
I am shooting with a Pen F and 12-40 f2.8 Pro. I've done a comparison of files shot at ISO 25,600. Jpeg with in-camera noise filtering as well as a raw file post processed in OM Workspace 2.1.0 using noise filtering and alternatively using DXO PhotoLab 6 and Deep Prime XD. The raw file shows a lot of noise. In-camera and OM Workspace all produce muddy, blotchy results whether using standard, low or high noise filtering. After applying Deep Prime XD, images looks as good as those shot at ISO 1,600 and that's without sharpening. Sharpening when applied sparingly helps even more, but anything beyond looks artificial. Results with DXO software are astonishing. Maybe OM workspace does better with files from the OM-1, but for me DXO makes my MFT cameras into low light monsters. XD is significantly better than original Deep Prime. You need to try it!
Thank you very much sharing this recommendation! I've never used DxO, but I will give it a try - your recommendation sounds very convincing! Also, I've got a Pen F somewhere, so I will test whether I also have the same issues when using OM Workspace. Thanks Robert, much appreciated! Have a nice holiday season :-)
Is the noise filter applying increasing filtering as iso increases? I'd keep it on 'normal' for example, but would want to retain details at iso 200 etc
Thomas...This discussion is fascinating. ..I am very interested to know about the 3 noise ranges in my OM Digital OM-1 II. I am a very experienced photographer...but you lost me a little bit when you say "push a RAW file in postproduction from one stage to another stage"? The image is already recorded in one of the stages. How could that possibly change? Could you explain "push" a little more clearly? Are you referirng to some OM Workspace proprietary software stating this post production terminology? You lost me a little bit there. Thanks.
Thank you very much. To answer your question: What I meant was that when you expose an image at ISO800 and then you push it two stops in post you basically "push" it to ISO3,200. This was an analogy to film photography, where you pushed film during development. As you've correctly remarked, you cannot move the ADC stages in post - which is why you should set the proper ISO in the first place. Hope that clears it up!
I'd say it is very good. I'm using it for those scenarios with great success. Keep in mind that the lens, exposure and to a lesser degree the processing are integral elements that influence the noise in the final image. Hope this helps!
Absolutely - I've shot it at ISO 12.800 -25.600 f/1.4 1/500 at fashion shows and so on. Check out some of my other videos - or my social. LL is not an issue with the OM-1
Awesome videos I’ve been a canon shooter for year’s currently shooting R6&R7 but these features spec the stacked sensor preburst with no rolling shutter is really pushing me to go Olympus om-1 and I was going to keep the R6 for landscape and Astro photography but this feature with the camera taking the dark frames and already removing that noise from the image is really opening my eyes to the potential cutting down post edit time will have to have a search see if anyone’s done an in depth video of the om-1 for Astrophotography 👍👍👍
Thank you very much for sharing that - the OM-1 is for sure a great pick. In many ways it is the one-for-all camera. I'm sure you will be happy with it I'd you decide to get one. The Narrowband Channel utilizes an OM-1 for astro, you might want to check that out. Apart from that - you can also shoot a separate dark frame and subtract it in OM Workspace at the RAW stage. Might be what you are looking for! Many thanks for watching and commenting!
I just bought om1 mark 2 this week..i want to know if there are changes with the new mark 2? What do you suggest about noise filter keep it of? Low or high?
Congratulations on your purchase! You can use the same guidelines with the Mark II. Regarding the noise filter: I usually turn it to "Off", as I thinks some structure in the photograph actually looks nice. My rule of thumb is: if I print smaller, I set a higher noise filter as the slight loss of detail won't be visible. I'd recommend experimenting with "Low" as a starting point and make adjustments as you deem fit. You can always change things in OM Workspace later if needed. Best wishes, Thomas 📸
Hello, thank you for the amazing content. So would it work if you push the RAW but keep it within the same stage? So push 200 to 800 for example, or 1600 to 6400? Or still better to rather pick the correct ISO? Thanks.
Yes, that is exactly how it works. In practice, I would recommend just setting the correct ISO. One thing, if you are close to the next stage and are not sure about getting the exposure right, just set the next higher ISO. At least that's what I do so I don't have to "jump stages".
Hello there, (from Maine, USA) I had the OM-1 system (previous OMD-mk2) I ended up trading it all in for the Nikon z6iii and now, I find that all of my images look exactly the same. Sharp and crisp. (I have a hefty 180-600 z, 24-70 f4, and the 105 macro) So I am in the works to trading my Nikon system back in for the OM-2 I have these lenses that I’m hoping to get in the trade as well: 12-40pro 300 mm 40-150 pro 17 1.2 What are your thoughts? I do landscape, wildlife, and some macro/astro, a little of street and people. Any recommendations on what you’d choose for a lens line up?
Treat yourself with one of the 1.2 pro lenses (you should also consider the 25 1.2 pro - take a look at the excellent ‘a Cuban epiphany’ review by Neil Buchan Grant). Furthermore: the zuiko 12-40 2.8 is nice and the Panasonic 35-100 2.8 is also a super lens capable of giving a nice bokeh for a zoom
I'd be interested to know if a future software update could use the pixel shift technology to take say 4 images and then median stack them to produce a 20MP image with vastly reduced noise. This way the images could be taken in a fraction of a second possibly
From an engineering perspective, it would definitely be possible. In a way, this is already implemented with the 25MP setting for High Res Shot. However, the camera takes the full set of images, so there is no real "speed advantage".
Hi Thomas, but how does the noise level look when having to crop an image taken at high ISO - which can be common for wildlife photographers? I can't seem to get an answer on this subject and will therefore avoid buying the system until I do. Most cameras will deal with noise when no cropping is involved. Thanks
Thank you for your great videos! what would you recommend as noise reducing method on OM1 for high speed sport or birds in flight shooting if the camera noise filter and noise reducer functions are turned off while using electronic shutter or high fps drive?
Thank you for the positive feedback! Maybe I can help you out: The noise filter is available in all shutter modes. So you can definitely use this one, and I would recommend setting a level that you find suitable. That should already solve any problems, but here is another thought: Some noise is to be expected at certain ISO settings, and as the noise profile of the OM-1 is very organic, I would not worry too much and accept it as it is. It can lend an image more sharpness and structure, much like film grain. Best, Thomas
How do you determine which ISO to use? Do you always use high Res mode and noise reduction ? Do you have online workshops or videos on post production? I subscribed and shared your channel with many others.
Hey there and thanks for the awesome contribution! Regarding setting the ISO: I am actually always picking the highest ISO needed and the lowest possible, but I also always try to make sure that I have exposed the image "enough" so I do not have to push in post production, which deteriorates the image quality. With the OM-1, I leave the noise reduction to "Normal", I think the results are pretty convincing when doing so! Thank you very much for promoting the channel, this is highly appreciated and really helps me to produce more content! Thank you again! Regarding Online Workshops: I actually did offer Post Processing Workshops in the past, would you be interested in an OM-specific Post Processing workshop?
@@ThomasEisl.Photography In regards to an OM workshop- I am not interested in it now- but will be in the future when I get an OM-1 or OM PEN-F II😃. However, some photographers create online courses that people can purchase at any time, which may be more convenient for you. I believe Matt Seuss does this.
Hello Thomas, Jose from Puerto Rico. This was another wonderful tutorial on a very hot topic. I was surprised to see that my OM-1 had some of these settings on already as I followed along with you using my camera. On the subject of post-processing, I wanted to ask you a question. I have always shot in RAW, but have not used the OM software. So far, for noise reduction, I'm using DxO PhotoLab 6 and I really like the results. What are your thoughts or suggestions on this software? Have you used DXO? I highly respect your opinions and suggestions, since you are a working pro. I am not a professional photographer. I consider myself an advanced amateur, and I shoot a lot of street and landscape photography, sometimes some portraits.
Hello Jose! Nice to read from you again - I have not worked with DxO apart from a short period of testing it 5 years ago. The most important point: if you like what you get, the software is just fine - I would not waste a thought on switching programs unless you have a specific issue with your current one. At the moment, I am using ACDSee a lot, I like it quite a bit. If you want to try something new, I would give this one a try. OM Workspace is great for creating JPEGs and TIFF for further editing in other programs. You should definitely try this one, it is for free after all - and you get the "signature" OM System look with this program. Best wishes from Vienna, thanks for commenting, Jose!
Interesting video, Thomas, however this seems pretty specific, wich of these advice would apply to any digital camera? By the way, are you still using your d800's?
Hey Kalle, thanks for sticking around through the abundance of OM-1 videos recently! I still have the D800s and I use them regularly - they are not going anywhere! Talking about the D800 and DSLRs, some tips can be applied as well. However, heat management is practically irrelevant unless you use live view all the time. DSLRs generate little to no heat. Regarding picking a higher ISO number right away instead of pushing in post production, is always the safe bet. The D800 is mostly ISO invariant, though. So it is not as critical as when working with the OM-1. Thanks for engaging, Kalle - much appreciated!
Most welcome! I think you mean either the highlight&shadow control or the gradation feature - both are still available in the OM-1. Here is a video where I cover those among other things: th-cam.com/video/bNdsxDG_cA8/w-d-xo.html&feature=share7
Thomas, I generally use eother ON1 or Luminar Neo for editing, often through their plug-ns in Apple Photo. I just bought an OM1 after renting it for a trip to Costa Rica, and subsequently installed the OM Workspace software. The AI noise reduction is the best I've seen, better than ON1, which is beter than Luminar. But when I subsequently open in another program a file that has been processed with OM Workspace, the quality is degraded. Should I export it as a TIFF or DNG to retain the exlellent noise reduction from the OM Workspace? Thank you,
Hey Richard and welcome to the "OM-1 Club"! In order to get "keep" the image quality for other programs, you should export the processed file to a TIFF file (if you want to do drastic processing) or JPG (if you just want to do minor adjustments). If you just open the RAW file with another converter, the adjustments from OM Workspace won't carry over! Hope this helped!
Thomas, I have a question, say I am taking a picture of a bird on a branch and the background is the sky, I use Auto ISO in manual mode, say for example 1/2500sec f4.5 and the ISO suggested by camera is ISO 400. The subject will be underexposed - so are you advocating that I should not apply +EV???
No, my recommendation is not related to applying exposure compensation, but to NOT applying exposure compensation and raising the exposure in the raw converter. In the situation you just described you should set the appropriate exposure compensation to avoid having to "jump ADC stages" in post production. Hope this helps!
Hi Homas, thanks you for so many great user guides for OM-1. I'm new user of this camera. I shot some test images, open RAW files in Lightroom and did small edit to get more contrast and vivid colors. Using Olymus 75mm 1.8 lens. It was 200 ISO, Adobe RGB. The images looks grerat, verty sharp but LT shows quite substattial amount of noice when zoomed in so I'm surpsised of that.. But the real problem is that when exported to jpg sRGB 100% the chrustal sharpness is gone and get get some moaire patern on the jpg ! :( It is visible differance compared to what Lightroom shows me from the raw file on the screen... JPG shows also less noice, despite I did not run noice reduction. Help.. what am I doing wrong ? I like the Lightroom image a lot but not the exported JPG (compared to my Nikon D850 files )yes, I know not fair, but I was expecting more from the OM-1 images). Thanks in advance!
From what I saw according to data available to me, the E-M5III uses a two-stage architecture: Stage I: ISO200 to 1.600, Stage II: higher than ISO 1.600. The same "rules" mentioned in this video apply to the E-M5III, apart from that.
Regarding EVF frame rate and 1 minute sleep mode ,would this also apply to the EM-1 mk iii? also does the size and built in grip of the EM-1 x improve noise performance in the same way as adding a grip to the OM-1? , i own the EM-1 mkiii
Hello Stephen, the recommendations in this video can be applied to the E-M1 series as well. Both the E-M1x and E-M1III have two ADC stages, compared to the three of the OM-1 - in reality, this does not change much in regards of picking ISO sensitivities: Choose the right one at the moment of capture and avoid pushing in post production. I recommend that regardless of camera model. Talking about heat management sepcifically: The E-M1x was designed to "stay cool" - the dedicated heat sinks in the camera body as well as the placement of the batteries in the hand grip are all the results of this design philosophy, making the E-M1x one of the most heat resistant mirrorless cameras ever made. If you look at the Nikon Z9, you can see that other manufacturers started to mimic this concept as well. Hope this helped, the E-M1III is a fantastic tool and these settings will sure push its performance.
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Hello Thomas, very well made and clear. Just a little remark. I wished the heat management section would demonstrate a "cool" vs "hot" camera sample side by side. Perhaps something to add to the written article ? Thanks for the good video
Thanks for the kind words!
Regarding your suggestion: great idea, I'll definitely look into that. Fun fact: it is currently quite cold in Austria, and it is actually difficult to get the OM-1 to higher temperatures. This is usually a bigger issue in summer. All in all, the OM-1 has good heat management, the mirrorless heat issue is more pronounced in larger sensor cameras. Thanks again for the comment and suggestion!
Thank you Thomas for making such a complex subject so simple and clear! Takes a Viennese to talk in plain simple English to help us Brits understand this subject. 😃
Haha, thank you!
I am here to report that once again, Thomas is absolutely correct in his analysis. Using his recommendations from this video, I took a 1200 ISO photo with my OM1 and completed basic RAW adjustments with Workspace (Mac) and the same on Lightroom. The resulting difference was glaringly obvious: Workspace produced the same image with less noise, more detail and better color - not to mention at the cheapest possible price! It’s just a pity it runs so slowly. Regardless, I will drop Lightroom and practice patience instead as the differences are so plain.
Your channel is wonderful. Thank you for keeping things simple and leaving out tedious music tracks and click-bait titling. I'm sure I'm not alone is preferring clear, instructive, and enlightening videos. It's a wonderful resource, and we're lucky to have you creating these.
Thank you so much for your kind words!
Your discussion of how the OM1 is split into three different sensitivity bands was eye opening. I've never heard of conventional dslr's doing this. Excellent information, and I look forward to watching the rest of your videos.
Many thanks!
There are indeed also older cameras and DSLRs which behave similarly and feature more than one ADC-stage. But yes, the OM-1 with its three stages is quite exceptional.
This was the most informative video about utilizing camera technology to get real results that I've ever seen. Fantastic job, thank you!
Thank you!
I appreciate that you often take the risk to make videos that discuss fairly niche subjects such as this, whilst most photography channels stick to very generic "latest" Canon/Nokia matters to maximise their viewership and income, which is likely due to YT's aggressive algorithm. I mean, I honestly didn't understand some of this video and none of it really applies to me since I don't own an Olympus system, but I think since I started watching your channel earlier this year that your channel has grown a lot, the comments you receive seem to suggest that your way of focusing on niche subjects is attractive to people who want more specialised information for less-common professional gear that other channels perhaps fail to offer, and your professional manner and tight editing certainly shows and makes for good viewing, whatever the topic. Wishing you well into 2023 and I hope your channel continues to grow as you strive to keep bringing us fresh and unique content!
Marcus, I'm humbled by this incredibly attentive comment - you are on of my absolute long-time viewers and I am so happy to see you around, even though I'm currently dealing with topics that are not directly related to your photography gear or practices. I very much appreciate that and I'm very thankful for that.
I have got some news, though: I recently purchased a Canon 5D classic finally, so I am also able to experience and talk about these cameras as well.
Thank you very much for your comment, can't be more grateful. Hope you have a wonderful 2022 holiday season and a positive, creative 2023 soon!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Hey, thanks. I have a Canon 6D, which is my only full-frame body. I would have been happy with either a 5D mkIII or a 6D when I was hunting for one (lightly-used so cheaper than new) and the 6D model just happened to come up first in an offer. But it's close enough, so am looking forward to what you have to say about it! I have read that there a lot of differences between a 5D and later 5D models, i.e. 5D mkII-mkIV, in terms of technical upgrades and software improvements, but that the original 5D is still quite popular because it has a klunkier, less-refined "classic" feel than later models to it which makes the user pay more attention to handling it than all the latest automated features demand on newer models. Which is probably what makes it more appealing to you, I'm guessing.
You deserve way more followers, I loved how you explained everything! Good job!
Thank you very much - that is very kind of you!
I would love if you share the video with other photographers, that would be awesome!
I just purchased the OM-1 and will arrive on Wednesday, 5-3-23. My previous camera ws an E-M5 Mkii purchased in 2018. It now is time to learn how to use this new camera! I will enjoy watching your series on the OM-1!!
Great to hear! I hope the OM-1 will live up to your expectations - it sure exceeded mine!
Please keep me updated! 📸👍
Brilliant way of explanation, Thomas. Really thank you for this.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow this knowledge is invaluable for an OM1 user I’m going to g to watch this again so I can understand it better but your explanation is so easy to understand Thank you so much I love your videos :)
Great to hear!
Hallo Thomas, das ist doch mal eine verständliche Erläuterung dieses Themas.
Nachher werde ich sofort die Einstellungen meiner OM-1 überprüfen, wo Anpassungen nach Deinen Empfehlungen erforderlich sind.
Ich wünsche Dir Frohe Weihnachten und alles Gute für 2023,
beste Grüße,
Walter.
Vielen Dank für den netten Kommentar - es freut mich wirklich sehr, dass mein Video für dich nützlich war!
Auch für Dich schöne Festtage und ein gutes neues Jahr - hoffentlich lesen bzw. sehen wir uns wieder hier auf TH-cam. Vielen Dank!
I’m newby OM1 owner from Thailand. Thank you Thomas for your clip was very helpful how to operate my OM1. You speak slowly that was so great for foriener like me to catch up what you explained and your example was easy to understand. Great channel.
That is great to hear! Many thanks for the feedback and welcome to the channel as well as the OM-1 club!
I am one who appreciates your in depth understanding of the technology being discussed, and your incredibly clear and concise explanations. I have been shooting landscapes with my Canon 5D4, and love the classic DSLR functionality and user experience much as you describe it with your Nikon system. However, the weight of the system has begun to limit my choice of shooting locations. Currently I am enjoying the used Olympus Micro4/3rds camera and pro lenses I acquired this past year. Thank you for illuminating the finer points of the OM-1's noise reduction options. Your professionalism, your channel, are some of the best available.
Thank you very much for sharing your camera choices and experiences - it is very encouraging to meet like-minded individuals.
I intend covering budget M43 options on this channel in the future, as soon as I got all the major aspects and functions of the OM-1 covered.
Also, thanks for the kind, encouraging words - this is very much appreciated!
As always, good information -- thanks Thomas. I have used battery grips on all my cameras (except, of course, the Pen F), but never really considered the effect of minimizing heat build up -- thanks for pointing that out.
Great to read, thanks!
Hello Thomas, your videos are absolutely first class. I’m not yet a OM system owner but will consider it. Your videos can also be applied to other systems.
You are one of the best TH-camrs out there! Don’t ever stop! Do you do photo tours in Austria? Please consider it!
Thank you so much - I'm honored and thankful, I'll try my best to live up to your words!
I've considered that - and I definitely want to offer things like that in the future!
I have been very interested in your clear presentations on Exposure and Image Noise. Many thanks - I'll be with you all the way!
Thank you so much!
Fabulous video again Thomas…. 🎉
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi Thomas, really enjoying your videos and finding them so very useful. I had my OM1 overheat during the summer on a very hot day (twice) whilst using SH2 mode and/or Pro Capture. Your suggestion about the HLD-10 is very valid, although personally, for me it would somewhat spoil the M4/3 form factor of the camera. I have found that by enabling Airplane mode that reduces the heat generated by lessening the load on the battery. Also moving the screen out on it's hinge for a while helps!
Thank you very much for adding these tips and your kind words!
It seems like summer time is DSLR-time haha. Jokes aside, the OM-1 is not very prone to overheating compared to other mirrorless cameras, however, in circumstances llike the ones you mentioned, there can be issues (also, when recording video under blazing sun for prolonged periods).
You are right about the size with the HLD-10 - in a previous video on DSLRs in 2022, I talked about the difference (or lack thereof) in size and weight between mirrorless and DSLRs, what I stated there seems to also valid when comparing MILC 35mm with M43, I guess: camera bodies have a certain size, the real size and weight savers are the smaller lenses.
Good thing is, that 99% of the time there is no issue with the OM-1 regarding overheating, so the HLD-10 is not a must.
Thanks for the comment, so nice to have these conversations!
Hey Thomas, thanks for this. As a new owner of the OM1 and previously with EM 1 mk 3, I have been a bit baffled by noise reduction etc. Your clear explanations with a bit of the background principles is very helpful, and please do keep offering suggested or recommended settings because they are a great starting point at the least for me trying out.
Great to hear! There are more videos covering the OM-1 already on my channel, and I've got many more planned for the coming weeks - so thank you for your feedback, it is much appreciated and it helps me to provide what you want to hear/see.
Thanks a lot, Malcolm!
One of the more useful commentaries on this camera. Thanks for the information.
Thank you very much!
Thomas, thank you for the most comprehensive overview of how to,cope with noise on the OM-1. Especially, the first part about ISO invariance gave new insights to me. The real game changer in dealing with high iso images, however, is DxO DeepPrime XD algorithms, which also operate at the demosaicing stage. The results are impressive so that ISO 12800 is not an issue for me anymore. DxO integrates well with Lightroom Classic as a plug-in. OM Workspace is too clumsy for me, so that I would not consider using it regularly.
Dear Thomas, thank you very much for your feedback regarding the video - I am very happy that it was helpful.
Thanks for the recommendation in regards of software, I will test it!
Best wishes from Vienna!
Thanks for an excellent presentation about how to reduce noise using the OM-1. Your suggestions are very helpful and I appreciate the information, which I have not found anywhere else. Please keep up the good work!
Thank you very much Gilbert - I'm glad you found it useful and I appreciate your kind words - more OM-1 specific videos are in the making to get the most out of this model 😊
Finally an understandable explanation of this topic. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment
Thank you, Thomas! This was extremely helpful and explains Noise in the OM-1 in a way I have never before seen discussed in print or videos. I will be using your recommendations.
So glad to read that - thank you very much Ricardo!
Thanks!
Thank you very much for your much appreciated support!
This has been very helpful! I’m getting my OM-1 next week, can’t wait to test
Awesome! Enjoy your new high-end tool, Danny - it is such a great camera 📸
I stumbled across your TH-cam channel a little over a month ago; your discussions on photography are consistently several steps ahead of what others are doing on their channels. I sincerely hope your subscription numbers, and resulting income, grow exponentially, as what you present is so useful. OK, I'm an OM-1 user, but still, your videos are so good! My only reservation about your videos has to do with the sound quality: as much as that wood back panel looks great, it bounces the sound back to your mic far too much. You might consider moving a bit further away from that back wall to improve the sound pressure ratio at the mic between your voice and the reflected sound from the wall behind you.
Thank you very much for your kind words - I am humbled and actually out of words.
Regarding sound quality: You are absolutely right, it is an issue!
Moving further away from the panels is an awesome idea - thanks for the tip!
The "reverb" you are hearing is actually me using the Olympus LS-P4 without a pop protection, this is where this annoying vibrating sound comes from (which was impossible to remove in post without sounding like a robot). You won't believe how long it took me to figure this out. I even thought that my recorder was broken or something.
In any case, future videos will have better audio quality - I'll do my best!
Thank you! Very clear and convincing presentation.
Thank you very much!
Thomas, you do an outstanding job of explaining complicated subjects and providing the best possible solutions to specific problems. Your videos are very professional and well done. Thank you!
Thank you very much Don! I'm very thankful for the positive feedback!
👍👍- Great content as always! Thanks Thomas.
My pleasure! Thanks for the kind comment!
¡Gracias!
De nada! Thank you very much for the kind donation!
Your videos are an absolute gem! Thank you very much!
Thank you for your kind comment!
Thanks
Thank you very much for your generous support!
Hello Thomas. This was a very clear and very helpful video. I appreciated both the technical information and the sample images. Well done.
Thank you very much John. I'm glad it was helpful, thanks for the kind comment!
Great video!
Thanks!
Excellent explanation and guidance. Thanks
Thanks Trevor! I'm glad you liked it 😊
Excellent information. Backed by real science. Thanks heaps. Don't have a OM-1 but contemplating one.
Thank you very much for the appreciation! Well, I'm probably biased because I really like working with the OM-1. In any case, it is a very capable camera and I'm quite sure that you will like it a lot as well.
good work Thomas. a lot of food for thought.
Thank you very much!
Very good information and presentation... thank you!
Thank you very much!
I am so glad that I happened to buy the same camera😂. I bought the OM1 because the love of OM film SLR cameras and honestly didn’t give this wonderful enough shooting time. Now I could learn!
Awesome! That is great to read - welcome to the OM-1 club!
Another superb video Thomas. I love your detailed insights.
Thank you so much, Mark!
Very well done video. I was surprised that you did not mention Mechanical vs Electronic shutter in your noise discussion!
Thank you very much!
Indeed, I was considering including it, but decided to make a separate video on it in the future!
Thank you very much for bringing this up and thanks for watching!
Love the grip suggestion. Using the grip and a tripod I often shoot with ProCapture and the remote so the camera stays on, never going into sleep mode, which means it gets hot. I can switch batteries easily enough so I'll try taking the battery in the body out. Another reason for a larger OM-1X!
I also had no idea that the OM-1 was ISO variant. Great piece of information. FWIW I believe I have seen evidence of what you're saying. A couple of times I inadvertently lowered the ISO which forced me to push the exposure in post. The files were unusable as compared to the files shot at higher ISO (four stops?) using auto ISO.
I would be very interested in an OM-1X for the exact same reasons. It just makes sense! However, with the grip the OM-1's already good heat management is further improved, definitely worth the money I'd say.
Thank you very much for your feedback and for sharing your invaluable experiences! All the best!
Thank you for this content. It is content like this which I have been seeking.
Ah, that is great to hear - thanks for the comment Martin!
Thank you for the relevant and concise tutorial
Thank you very much Andreas! Your kind feedback is very much appreciated!
Thank you for explaining this...helps my understanding tremendously. I too only mildly understood this topic but now have a better understanding. And it took me a few viewings to get there like other folk. Purely from a technical understanding on my behalf, not your explanation of image noise which is superb !
Thanks again Gerry! I hope these tips will benefit your photography. For me, trying to avoid pushing files in post production really helped tremendously!
Very interesting! Thanks! Subscribed.
Thank you very much and welcome to the channel!
Another great video Thomas 😍 One thing that was unfortunately not made clear was “exactly how” these raw files are actually being “pushed”…
By pushing, do you mean that instead of say raising the iso “4 stops worth”, instead we dial in an exposure compensation of +4 stops worth on the camera.
Is this what you meant? Or you meant increasing the exposure during raw development within whatever raw converting software one uses…
You would be an amazing OM Systems ambassador. And sharpest dressed one at that 😊
Sorry for the confusion!
I meant increasing the exposure time during RAW development - I advise against that and recommend setting a higher ISO number instead (if needed, of course).
Thank you for the encouraging comment and watching my videos, that is so awesome!
Excellent video, as always, as an engineer and photographer I especially appreciate your work! I have just one qualm, however, with your assertion that the battery generates heat and therefore the camera benefits from moving it into the grip. I've worked with Lithium Ion batteries extensively in my professional career and don't believe this to be the case for the discharge rates found in digital cameras. Perhaps you're referring to the heat generated by the internal circuitry when the battery is being charged?
Hi Thomas, Yet another very informative video! Keep them posting! For me the reason not to use OM Workspace is that it is a bit slow, I am also missing useful tools and my laptop does not have a supported GPU to benefit from the AI noise reduction. Currently I use DXO Photolab 6 elite, it is one of the best noise reduction software I am aware of. It closes the gap with larger sensor formats for me. When a 6400 iso shot is well exposed it is nearly as clean as an iso 200 image out of camera. Only thing is that it requires quite a powerful computer and takes in the highest quality setting (Deepprime XD) around 1 minute to complete.
I also know at high iso and low light situations electronic shutter produce more signal noise than a mechanical shutter. I guess this won't be as much of a problem with the OM-1 sensor I think because of the bsi. I use electronic shutter exclusively, to keep the shutter count low.
Regarding OM Workspace - you are right, it is slow. What I like to do is batch process all my selects, just applying exposure compensation if needed. Then, I continue working on the TIFFs or JPEGs in other programs.
I use mostly mechanical shutter as I often have to deal with flickering lights on location. I will compare the noise performance of these two shutter types in an upcoming video, thanks for this idea!
Apart from these scenarios, I use the electronic shutter as well - although I do not worry too much about shutter life, the OM-1 is rated for 400.000, which is insane.
Thank you very much for the comment and the valuable input - much appreciated!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography true the shutter would survive, only the secondhand value is really dependent on it. Although the replacement will be in the range of 150 euro. In case I want to upgrade and retain the max value in the future to an OM-1 II it matters.
Very useful, thank you!
Glad to hear that!
Hi Thomas, after watching a few of your videos, I’ve learned more in two days about M3/4 and exposure, etc. than I did in the previous year of watching instructional videos on TH-cam. Thanks for the succinct way that you explain very complex principles. I switched from Nikon D780 to OM-D E-M1 III a few months ago and I’m thoroughly enjoying the new experience. I however miss my Nikon for what it had to offer….as an amateur photographer I couldn’t justify keeping both systems. I’m looking forward to watching and learning more fro your videos.
Thank you so much for your kind words!
The D780 is a great camera and I can imagine that you miss it from time to time. I hope my future MFT videos will be to your liking as well! I think that the E-M1III is a future proof camera, a great tool just like the D780! Hear from you soon!
Thanks Thomas. I’m quite liking these more technical features on the OM-1 and how to use it to get the best results.
Awesome, thank you very much Bill!
Hello Thomas, im new to Om system. Great detailed video and helped me a lot. 👌
Glad it was helpful!
Danke fürs Video. Sehr schön erklärt. Muss ich direkt testen.
Sehr gerne 😊
I appreciate the effort you put into this video. Well explained in plain English. I am finally convinced that OM 1 is worth investing it. Check out your coffee credits. I certainly will donate soon . Many thanks.
Thank you very much for the exceptionally kind words and generous donation!
I am quite sure that you will like the OM-1 as much as I do. It is really my most used camera since I bought it, and rightly so. If you have any questions, feel free to get in touch! Thanks again!
Thank you for this video, Thomas. Clear and concise. Very useful.
Another way of reducing battery-induced heat build-up is to run the camera from a power bank in your pocket via a USB-C cable, when engaged in an intense session (e.g. studio or astrophotography with dark-frame NR engaged). I shoot mainly wildlife with my OM-1 and portability is important at my age. I would not want the bulk and weight of the battery grip added to my walk-around kit. Battery life is so good that I don't need the extra reserves of the battery grip. I replace the in-camera battery if it becomes exhausted.
Also, as good as the OM Workspace is purported to be, I will not use it because I run a Lightroom + AI denoising plug-in ecosystem for my work. Adding OM Workspace to that mix seems cumbersome.
I would use OM denoising software if it was provided as a Lightroom plug-in.
I'm a retired professional photographer.
The power bank is a great tip, I have not thought about that!
Regarding OM Workspace, yes, it is cumbersome to "add in". I'm also constantly on the fence about it, as it can be a bit "lame" compared to other software options. Professionals like us value a "sleek" and fast workflow, I am totally with you. I'm thinking about sharing my "fast OM Workspace" workflow in a future video (it won't be as convenient as your workflow I'm afraid).
Thanks for the contribution, much appreciated!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Thank you, Thomas. I am glad that my opinions resonated for you as well.
Absolutely, thank you Sir!
Thanks for the video. It is good to get an in-depth technical perspective on the OM-1, not just this video. I am a hobby bird photographer in Brisbane, Queensland. I use a Sony a7iv with the 100-400 GM with a x1.4 TC pretty welded to the lens. I chose this combination as the 200-600 is too heavy as a walk around kit for a septuagenarian with a bad shoulder. Shooting small moving birds even only 3-5m away still needs a good focal length combination and still requires cropping. Think wrens, robins and finches. With my 100-400 and x1.4TC I get 560mm at f8, FF, with my x2 TC I get 800 at f11, FF. With my x1.4TC in crop mode I can get equivalent to 840mm but image at
Thank you very much for the comment and your financial support.
According to my experiences, the ISO-performance of the OM-1 is more than sufficient. For example, I've photographed fashion shows at ISO 12.800 with the OM-1 and the client was happy with the results (so was I). Most issues stem from people not exposing correctly and then they have to work the sliders in post, which will always deteriorate image quality. So I would not worry about that at all, to be honest. Also, some people stop down MFT lenses like crazy, although they should just use the smallest f number and use low ISO instead.
This video might be of interest when it comes to low light: th-cam.com/video/jJQgJMCQJc8/w-d-xo.html
Also, this one: th-cam.com/video/FVHTLFD_7o8/w-d-xo.html
You also brought up cropping, and as you've already noticed no matter how big your sensor is, cropping is always reducing image quality. So if you use a system that gets the framing right, you will always be at an advantage. This video also tackles the cropping problem: th-cam.com/video/D1ezetEALk0/w-d-xo.html
For your use cases, I'd say you cannot get a better camera than the OM-1. It is very compact, extremely fast and incredibly reliable. I can wholeheartedly recommend it, after more than a year of intense use. One of the best camera purchases I've ever made.
Hope I was able to help! Feel free to follow up with questions or shoot me an e-mail.
Best, Thomas
Hi Thomas, I hope you’re reading this after Christmas and I have not disturbed your Christmas. I have purchased the OM-1 and 100-400 kit and busy now learning. Your approach to teaching is good for me. Thank you. Just a question if I may. I was also considering getting a macro lens. I don’t see myself as becoming an expert but when there are not many birds about insects and other small wildlife interest me. As it would’ve used outdoors I probably can’t get too close and I was wondering if the 40-150 f2.8 could be a good choice. I would get some flexibility but not probably true 1:1 macro which is fine. The synced image stabilisation with the pro lens would also be good for hand holding. And it could be useful for close birds with or without a 1.4tc. Does this make sense, or what would you suggest? Thank you.
@tonyblake8841 great to hear! Well, I'd say that would make sense, as what you are describing is not macro in the strictest sense as you stated yourself. So indeed, I'd say that is a perfectly reasonable purchase decision - a future-proof purchase, if I may add. Best, Thomas 📸
One remark: the 40-150 has no image stabilization, so it cannot sync with the body (not a big deal as the OM has an excellent stabilizer)
@@ThomasEisl.PhotographyHi Thomas, is there image stabilisation syncing with the f2.8 and not the f4 on the 40-150, or not on both?
Good work...again!
Thank you very much Wayne!
I don't even have OM-1 but some features you explained could be applied on my EM1ii and EM1X! Thank you!
Absolutely! The major difference is that these two fantastic cameras of yours have two instead of three ADC stages. That's about it! Glad you find the videos useful 🙂
This is such a useful lesson., thank you. Wishing you a v Happy New Year, C
Awesome to read - most welcome!
Happy New Year for you too, Catherine!
Such a great video!
Very informative and well presented.
Thank you for sharing!
Thank you so much for your kind comment, I very much appreciate your feedback!
Thank you. Great!
Sehr interessant.Danke dafür!
Vielen Dank!
Danke für das Wissen und die technische Beratung. Ich werde sie auch in meinem Om1 verwenden. Ich bin sehr zufrieden mit dieser Kamera, aber bitte, wenn Sie weitere Ratschläge haben, die wirklich nützlich wären, um sie in vollem Umfang und mit all ihrer Technologie zu nutzen! Danke aus Italien
Vielen Dank!
Die OM-1 ist wirklich eine besondere Kamera, und ich bin ebenfalls sehr zufrieden. In den kommenden Wochen werden weiter Videos zur OM-1 folgen, ich hoffe Sie finden diese ebenfalls nützlich.
Nochmals vielen Dank für den Kommentar und beste Grüße nach Italien!
Thank you for this information
1) is there an advantage of switching off the camera when not in use to avoid heating during non use
2) are there ratios for base iso above 200, for example 400, 800, etc that take advantage of system math
3) using picture profiles on JPEG versus relying completely on raw may save space time and processing especially if image processing internally is native to system hardware do you have any experience with this
4) is there a recommended computer configuration to run the latest version of om work space
Hey Kevin!
1) Yes, if you switch it off, you are keeping it even "cooler"
2) I am not quite sure what you mean, maybe you could re-phrase the question
3) If you expose correctly, only shootng JPEG can save time, you limit your post processing options quite a bit when doing so, unfortunately.
4) I would stick to the specifications recommended by OM System, see here: support.olympus-imaging.com/owdownload
@@ThomasEisl.Photography on 2 there could be multiple sweet spots for iso that are multiples of 200
Useful info! I wasn't aware of the issue with pushing raw files, or of the noise-inducing effect of taking a lot of images. (I knew about the problem with long exposures, though.) I had noticed, though, that exposing to the right of the histogram results in remarkably lower noise levels in things like skies, even when the image looks overexposed in the viewfinder. Better to bring the exposure down a bit in post than to push it.
Absolutely, Barry! In a recently published video, I talk about the dynamic range of the OM-1. Metering to just not overexpose the Highlights is a very useful technique.
Thanks for the comment!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography About to watch that one . . .
Hi Thomas. Danke für das gute Video. :) Ich hab ja selbst die OM-1 in Verwendung und grundsätzlich auch kein Problem mit dem Rauschen (mehr). Fotografiere ich Vögel, lasse ich inzwischen ohne Sorge den ISO auf Auto. Ist das Resultat nicht brauchbar, ist es immer meine Schuld, aber nie die der Kamera (zumindest, was das Rauschen angeht). Dass der Unterschied zwischen Kamera-ISO und nachträglich korrigierten RAW-File so groß ist, hätte ich übrigens nicht erwartet. Ich wusste, dass es einen Unterschied gibt, aber das sind ja Welten!
Vielen Dank für den netten, umfassenden Kommentar - freut mich immer sehr, dich hier begrüßen zu dürfen! Ich war ebenfalls von dem Unterschied überrascht und vermeiden seither so gut wie möglich, die Belichtung in der Nachbearbeitung anzuheben!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Auf jeden Fall werd ich da jetzt auch vermehrt drauf achten. Der Gedanke "Mach ich später in Lightroom" war bei mir schon noch präsent. Ich glaub, in Sachen Belichtung werd ich mich davon jetzt erst recht lösen. 😅
Oh je, da habe ich dann zu Komfort-Verlust beigetragen
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Ach iwo, ich freu mich doch immer, wenn ich mal was Neues lernen kann bzw. einen Aha-Effekt habe. 😊
Alright, das beruhigt mich jetzt hehe
Ich sehe mir deine Videos gerne an, obwohl ich nur mit der OM-D E-M5 Mark III unterwegs bin. Aber viel von dem, was du zur OM-1 erklärst, kann ich auch auf die E-M5 anwenden. Ich benutze Olympus Workspace eher selten, weil ich meine Fotos seit Jahren in Lightroom nachbearbeite. Aber der Hinweis, das OM-Workspace für das OM-System maßgeschneidert ist, lässt mich mal darüber nachdenken, ob ich dieses Programm nicht öfter einsetzen sollte. Danke.
Vielen Dank für den Kommentar!
Workspace ist definitiv einen Versuch wert. Ich habe einige Videos zum Einstieg ins Programm am Kanal.
Viele Grüße, Thomas 📸
I am shooting with a Pen F and 12-40 f2.8 Pro. I've done a comparison of files shot at ISO 25,600. Jpeg with in-camera noise filtering as well as a raw file post processed in OM Workspace 2.1.0 using noise filtering and alternatively using DXO PhotoLab 6 and Deep Prime XD. The raw file shows a lot of noise. In-camera and OM Workspace all produce muddy, blotchy results whether using standard, low or high noise filtering. After applying Deep Prime XD, images looks as good as those shot at ISO 1,600 and that's without sharpening. Sharpening when applied sparingly helps even more, but anything beyond looks artificial.
Results with DXO software are astonishing. Maybe OM workspace does better with files from the OM-1, but for me DXO makes my MFT cameras into low light monsters. XD is significantly better than original Deep Prime. You need to try it!
Thank you very much sharing this recommendation!
I've never used DxO, but I will give it a try - your recommendation sounds very convincing!
Also, I've got a Pen F somewhere, so I will test whether I also have the same issues when using OM Workspace.
Thanks Robert, much appreciated!
Have a nice holiday season :-)
Awesome video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love your fascinating descriptive videos :). Mal
More to come! Thank you very much 🙂
Great video. I subbed. I shalltry to use these settings on my cheaper cameras like the EM5 Mk iii and EM10 Mark ii.
Absolutely - it works with them just as fine! Thanks for the sub and comment, keep me updated!
I find the DxO DeepPrime noise reduction works quite well on the OM1 files.
Thanks for the recommendation - I will try it for sure!
Is the noise filter applying increasing filtering as iso increases? I'd keep it on 'normal' for example, but would want to retain details at iso 200 etc
Thomas...This discussion is fascinating. ..I am very interested to know about the 3 noise ranges in my OM Digital OM-1 II. I am a very experienced photographer...but you lost me a little bit when you say "push a RAW file in postproduction from one stage to another stage"? The image is already recorded in one of the stages. How could that possibly change? Could you explain "push" a little more clearly? Are you referirng to some OM Workspace proprietary software stating this post production terminology? You lost me a little bit there. Thanks.
Got the same question here…
Thank you very much.
To answer your question: What I meant was that when you expose an image at ISO800 and then you push it two stops in post you basically "push" it to ISO3,200. This was an analogy to film photography, where you pushed film during development. As you've correctly remarked, you cannot move the ADC stages in post - which is why you should set the proper ISO in the first place. Hope that clears it up!
VIELEN DANK - habe viel gelernt ! -> ☕
Vielen Dank Alexander - und vielen herzlichen Dank für den Kaffee 🙏☕
I would like to know if you tested Om-1 for indoor event photography. How is ISO noise perform there?
I'd say it is very good. I'm using it for those scenarios with great success. Keep in mind that the lens, exposure and to a lesser degree the processing are integral elements that influence the noise in the final image. Hope this helps!
How good is high iso now in the om-1. Is it capable for sportfotografie in bad light conditions? Or maybe event or festivals at night.
Absolutely - I've shot it at ISO 12.800 -25.600 f/1.4 1/500 at fashion shows and so on.
Check out some of my other videos - or my social. LL is not an issue with the OM-1
Awesome videos I’ve been a canon shooter for year’s currently shooting R6&R7 but these features spec the stacked sensor preburst with no rolling shutter is really pushing me to go Olympus om-1 and I was going to keep the R6 for landscape and Astro photography but this feature with the camera taking the dark frames and already removing that noise from the image is really opening my eyes to the potential cutting down post edit time will have to have a search see if anyone’s done an in depth video of the om-1 for Astrophotography 👍👍👍
Thank you very much for sharing that - the OM-1 is for sure a great pick. In many ways it is the one-for-all camera.
I'm sure you will be happy with it I'd you decide to get one.
The Narrowband Channel utilizes an OM-1 for astro, you might want to check that out.
Apart from that - you can also shoot a separate dark frame and subtract it in OM Workspace at the RAW stage. Might be what you are looking for!
Many thanks for watching and commenting!
Would the advice also be applied to the OM-D E-M1X, especially the 3 stages ADC of the ISO settings?
If I recall correctly, the M1X used a two-stage ADC - nonetheless, the principles are just as valid for this camera! Best, Thomas
I just bought om1 mark 2 this week..i want to know if there are changes with the new mark 2? What do you suggest about noise filter keep it of? Low or high?
Congratulations on your purchase! You can use the same guidelines with the Mark II. Regarding the noise filter: I usually turn it to "Off", as I thinks some structure in the photograph actually looks nice. My rule of thumb is: if I print smaller, I set a higher noise filter as the slight loss of detail won't be visible. I'd recommend experimenting with "Low" as a starting point and make adjustments as you deem fit. You can always change things in OM Workspace later if needed. Best wishes, Thomas 📸
Hello, thank you for the amazing content. So would it work if you push the RAW but keep it within the same stage? So push 200 to 800 for example, or 1600 to 6400? Or still better to rather pick the correct ISO? Thanks.
Yes, that is exactly how it works.
In practice, I would recommend just setting the correct ISO. One thing, if you are close to the next stage and are not sure about getting the exposure right, just set the next higher ISO. At least that's what I do so I don't have to "jump stages".
Hello there, (from Maine, USA)
I had the OM-1 system (previous OMD-mk2)
I ended up trading it all in for the Nikon z6iii and now, I find that all of my images look exactly the same. Sharp and crisp. (I have a hefty 180-600 z, 24-70 f4, and the 105 macro)
So I am in the works to trading my Nikon system back in for the OM-2
I have these lenses that I’m hoping to get in the trade as well:
12-40pro
300 mm
40-150 pro
17 1.2
What are your thoughts?
I do landscape, wildlife, and some macro/astro, a little of street and people.
Any recommendations on what you’d choose for a lens line up?
Treat yourself with one of the 1.2 pro lenses (you should also consider the 25 1.2 pro - take a look at the excellent ‘a Cuban epiphany’ review by Neil Buchan Grant). Furthermore: the zuiko 12-40 2.8 is nice and the Panasonic 35-100 2.8 is also a super lens capable of giving a nice bokeh for a zoom
I'd be interested to know if a future software update could use the pixel shift technology to take say 4 images and then median stack them to produce a 20MP image with vastly reduced noise. This way the images could be taken in a fraction of a second possibly
From an engineering perspective, it would definitely be possible.
In a way, this is already implemented with the 25MP setting for High Res Shot. However, the camera takes the full set of images, so there is no real "speed advantage".
Hi Thomas, but how does the noise level look when having to crop an image taken at high ISO - which can be common for wildlife photographers? I can't seem to get an answer on this subject and will therefore avoid buying the system until I do. Most cameras will deal with noise when no cropping is involved. Thanks
Hello there!
You can crop quite aggressively, as the noise is very well controlled. Hope this helps!
Thank you for your great videos!
what would you recommend as noise reducing method on OM1 for high speed sport or birds in flight shooting if the camera noise filter and noise reducer functions are turned off while using electronic shutter or high fps drive?
Thank you for the positive feedback!
Maybe I can help you out: The noise filter is available in all shutter modes. So you can definitely use this one, and I would recommend setting a level that you find suitable. That should already solve any problems, but here is another thought: Some noise is to be expected at certain ISO settings, and as the noise profile of the OM-1 is very organic, I would not worry too much and accept it as it is. It can lend an image more sharpness and structure, much like film grain.
Best, Thomas
How do you determine which ISO to use? Do you always use high Res mode and noise reduction ? Do you have online workshops or videos on post production? I subscribed and shared your channel with many others.
Hey there and thanks for the awesome contribution!
Regarding setting the ISO: I am actually always picking the highest ISO needed and the lowest possible, but I also always try to make sure that I have exposed the image "enough" so I do not have to push in post production, which deteriorates the image quality.
With the OM-1, I leave the noise reduction to "Normal", I think the results are pretty convincing when doing so!
Thank you very much for promoting the channel, this is highly appreciated and really helps me to produce more content! Thank you again!
Regarding Online Workshops:
I actually did offer Post Processing Workshops in the past, would you be interested in an OM-specific Post Processing workshop?
@@ThomasEisl.Photography In regards to an OM workshop- I am not interested in it now- but will be in the future when I get an OM-1 or OM PEN-F II😃. However, some photographers create online courses that people can purchase at any time, which may be more convenient for you. I believe Matt Seuss does this.
Hello Thomas, Jose from Puerto Rico. This was another wonderful tutorial on a very hot topic. I was surprised to see that my OM-1 had some of these settings on already as I followed along with you using my camera. On the subject of post-processing, I wanted to ask you a question. I have always shot in RAW, but have not used the OM software. So far, for noise reduction, I'm using DxO PhotoLab 6 and I really like the results. What are your thoughts or suggestions on this software? Have you used DXO? I highly respect your opinions and suggestions, since you are a working pro. I am not a professional photographer. I consider myself an advanced amateur, and I shoot a lot of street and landscape photography, sometimes some portraits.
Hello Jose! Nice to read from you again - I have not worked with DxO apart from a short period of testing it 5 years ago. The most important point: if you like what you get, the software is just fine - I would not waste a thought on switching programs unless you have a specific issue with your current one.
At the moment, I am using ACDSee a lot, I like it quite a bit. If you want to try something new, I would give this one a try.
OM Workspace is great for creating JPEGs and TIFF for further editing in other programs. You should definitely try this one, it is for free after all - and you get the "signature" OM System look with this program.
Best wishes from Vienna, thanks for commenting, Jose!
Interesting video, Thomas, however this seems pretty specific, wich of these advice would apply to any digital camera? By the way, are you still using your d800's?
Hey Kalle, thanks for sticking around through the abundance of OM-1 videos recently!
I still have the D800s and I use them regularly - they are not going anywhere!
Talking about the D800 and DSLRs, some tips can be applied as well.
However, heat management is practically irrelevant unless you use live view all the time. DSLRs generate little to no heat.
Regarding picking a higher ISO number right away instead of pushing in post production, is always the safe bet. The D800 is mostly ISO invariant, though. So it is not as critical as when working with the OM-1.
Thanks for engaging, Kalle - much appreciated!
Do what you say in this video apply to the Olympus OMD EM-1 mk1, mkii n mkiii ?
Yes, the only difference is that the ADC architecture is slightly different, but the same rules apply. Best, Thomas 📸
Thanks a lot for your videos!!!
In previous cameras 1-3 there were jpeg light and shadow settings, does the OM-1 not have this function already?
Most welcome!
I think you mean either the highlight&shadow control or the gradation feature - both are still available in the OM-1. Here is a video where I cover those among other things:
th-cam.com/video/bNdsxDG_cA8/w-d-xo.html&feature=share7
Thomas, I generally use eother ON1 or Luminar Neo for editing, often through their plug-ns in Apple Photo. I just bought an OM1 after renting it for a trip to Costa Rica, and subsequently installed the OM Workspace software. The AI noise reduction is the best I've seen, better than ON1, which is beter than Luminar. But when I subsequently open in another program a file that has been processed with OM Workspace, the quality is degraded. Should I export it as a TIFF or DNG to retain the exlellent noise reduction from the OM Workspace? Thank you,
Hey Richard and welcome to the "OM-1 Club"!
In order to get "keep" the image quality for other programs, you should export the processed file to a TIFF file (if you want to do drastic processing) or JPG (if you just want to do minor adjustments).
If you just open the RAW file with another converter, the adjustments from OM Workspace won't carry over!
Hope this helped!
Thomas, I have a question, say I am taking a picture of a bird on a branch and the background is the sky, I use Auto ISO in manual mode, say for example 1/2500sec f4.5 and the ISO suggested by camera is ISO 400. The subject will be underexposed - so are you advocating that I should not apply +EV???
No, my recommendation is not related to applying exposure compensation, but to NOT applying exposure compensation and raising the exposure in the raw converter. In the situation you just described you should set the appropriate exposure compensation to avoid having to "jump ADC stages" in post production. Hope this helps!
Hi Homas, thanks you for so many great user guides for OM-1. I'm new user of this camera. I shot some test images, open RAW files in Lightroom and did small edit to get more contrast and vivid colors. Using Olymus 75mm 1.8 lens. It was 200 ISO, Adobe RGB. The images looks grerat, verty sharp but LT shows quite substattial amount of noice when zoomed in so I'm surpsised of that.. But the real problem is that when exported to jpg sRGB 100% the chrustal sharpness is gone and get get some moaire patern on the jpg ! :( It is visible differance compared to what Lightroom shows me from the raw file on the screen... JPG shows also less noice, despite I did not run noice reduction. Help.. what am I doing wrong ? I like the Lightroom image a lot but not the exported JPG (compared to my Nikon D850 files )yes, I know not fair, but I was expecting more from the OM-1 images). Thanks in advance!
If you don't need the high resolution, you can use the ND computational mode to average across images and reduce noise.
Yes! I will talk about it in a separate video, it is such a great feature!
Thomas, does the EM5iii have that same ADC architecture feature as the OM1?
From what I saw according to data available to me, the E-M5III uses a two-stage architecture: Stage I: ISO200 to 1.600, Stage II: higher than ISO 1.600.
The same "rules" mentioned in this video apply to the E-M5III, apart from that.
Regarding EVF frame rate and 1 minute sleep mode ,would this also apply to the EM-1 mk iii? also does the size and built in grip of the EM-1 x improve noise performance in the same way as adding a grip to the OM-1? , i own the EM-1 mkiii
Hello Stephen,
the recommendations in this video can be applied to the E-M1 series as well. Both the E-M1x and E-M1III have two ADC stages, compared to the three of the OM-1 - in reality, this does not change much in regards of picking ISO sensitivities: Choose the right one at the moment of capture and avoid pushing in post production. I recommend that regardless of camera model.
Talking about heat management sepcifically:
The E-M1x was designed to "stay cool" - the dedicated heat sinks in the camera body as well as the placement of the batteries in the hand grip are all the results of this design philosophy, making the E-M1x one of the most heat resistant mirrorless cameras ever made. If you look at the Nikon Z9, you can see that other manufacturers started to mimic this concept as well.
Hope this helped, the E-M1III is a fantastic tool and these settings will sure push its performance.