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One thing I've discovered is that to unlock the magic of OM System High res photography, you may need to import the images to OM Workspace first. I know that's true with Adobe Lightroom Classic. I have not tested whether this is true of other photo processing software, as I don't have any. But in my testing, high resolution files imported into OM Workspace then exported as TIFFs to Lightroom are significantly sharper than files processed entirely in Lightroom. High res mode images of B&W negative film processed initially in OM Workspace will clearly and sharply show the film grain; LR-only images will be much fuzzier.
I do the same thing with the high res modes. OM Workspace also does a better job with standard RAW files, especially for fine details like skin texture and highly saturated colors where you want good color gradation. Like blue skies or red flowers. If I don't need the better feature set of Lightroom, I try to process the file solely in OM WS (or export an edited TIFF into LR).
I am amazed at the superiority of the ISO 6400 high res shot in low light, when compared to the long exposure ISO 200 "standard method". Even more remarkable are the uses you explain for portraiture at insanely high ISO's. I am excited to apply the high res modes in more and more situations. Thanks for your outstanding video and information. OM should applaud and support your generous work for them.
Hi Thomas! Having watched some of your OM-1 content, I can confidently state that I feel more excited than ever about getting the most out of my camera system. Thank you!
That is so cool to hear - the OM-1 is really a camera that grows on you the more you use it and its advanced functions and modes! Have a great weekend and happy shooting :-)
I’ve had all the Olympus cameras except for the Mx1 and I’ve never used high res, in either mode. And I agree with you about the color at high ISO. That’s what convinced me to buy the OM-1. The color shift in the shadows was impossible to deal with in post. It’s MUCH better on the OM-1. But the high res mode looks very interesting! You’ve inspired me to give it a try. I’m going to have to watch this video a couple more times to extract all the information from it. Great job Thomas!
Tx for a great overview of the features of HRes modes. One thing that is also good to know is that HHHR images respond very well to Topaz Sharpen AI - Motion Blur Sharpening.
Another very professional guide, thank you for making these for us Thomas. One day, when I upgrade to an OM-1, I shall come back and watch them all again.
As an OM-1 amateur user, I look forward to each of your expert videos, and this is no exception. I was also wondering if you had any thoughts of assembling all the information you have into a book or an electronic guide to carry on a smart phone?
Yes, as @sourcebase kindly stated, you can find everything on my site - I´m also considering compiling one PDF as a portable reference guide in the future, it is a great idea! Thank you for the kind feedback, so nice!
Thank you very much Thomas. I do hope OMDS are watching these videos, they really show how to get the utmost benefit from the OM-1, in a crystal clear, calm format with zero self-promotion. On the hires topic, first, it is really enlightening to see how “tripod mode” can benefit tripod photography! I guess in this case there is no gain in resolution, but the other benefits are clear. The other thing is post-processsing: some applications are a LOT better than others at decoding hires ORFs. CaptureOne does a truly appaling job. Adobe, so-so. OMWS is ok of course, but falls down in so many other areas that it it makes little sense to use it. I’ve found that for Hires tripod mode, DxO gives very impressive results, and for these files I now preproces in DxO to DNG, which I then import into CaptureOne. It would be interesting to hear your thoughts on this part of the OM-1 workflow!
Hey David! Thank you very much for the great contribution! I will share my Workflow soon - the trick is to limit the operations in OMWS to RAW conversion. Everything else I do in Affinity Photo. By doing so, the workflow is pretty efficient, effectively circumventing the shortcomings of OMWS. I agree regarding HHHRes - it seems to nullify certain image defects and therefore greatly improves the IQ even though the camera is on the tripod. Best wishes!
I was so excited to see this video! Your videos are becoming the gold standard for using the OM-1! In February I shot an event that took place in a wine cellar (very low light) -- a launch party for a new small business -- and one shot was of the owner standing at a tallboy table in the cellar. I decided *not* to use flash to avoid harsh lighting, but I had to do much post-processing to get the image to be usable, and in the end, I was disappointed with the result because the delicate gold chain holding her diamond pendant was partially unrecoverable because of the ISO noise. Arrrgggh!! I wish that I had thought of using high-res mode to take the shot. I feel certain that it would have been FAR superior to the image I got as your video illustrates! Next time I hope to remember this fantastic capability of the OM-1!
Thank you so much for your kind comment and for sharing your experiences! Low light is always very challenging, regardless of which camera you are using - but as you've said, with high res shot, you can get shots that you cannot without the mode enabled. As long as the subject remains relatively still, you can get great IQ!
This and really all of your videos are amazingly interesting, insightful and extremely useful. Your point near the end with the portrait shot at 25,000 ISO and comparative to film and not having the overly digitized look. Spot on. I'm excited. HR
New site user with a OMD EM1 Mark II ,still find the content to be excellent and some what transferable. Just watched the video on in camera editing , was not even aware of how to use this function, so thanks very useful. Well presented with a large dose of practical advise, thanks Thomas !
Astonishing, Thomas. Thank you. I will be pushing my OM-1 much further from now on. I had no idea hi-res was so good and, yes, I had considered it to be a bit of a gimmick so have not used it very much.
That is so great to read - please share your experiences if you have the time to do so. I hope it works out the way you expect it to - I myself truly love it, to be honest!
Thank you for showing so clearly that this mode is not a toy. The look you can achieve with it with high ISO in the end is truly astounding! Congrats for this discovery and thank you for sharing it so generously 🙏
Thank you very much - I'm also very hyped regarding the high ISO HHHR look! It is definitely usable, I'd say! Thanks for the comment and continued engagement, so happy to have you on the channel!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Elsewhere someone mentioned, that the technique was originally invented by astronomers to improve the resolution of the Hubble Space Telescope. Nicknamed DRIZZLE, the algorithm is called variable-pixel linear reconstruction. That could be true, at least what Wikipedia writes about how it works sounds quite familiar - we might have some space tech in our cameras. Thank you for your kind words and for having me!
Absolutely incredibly helpful content on your channel! Thank you for doing all the hard work and breaking it down for us so we can make use of these technologies in creating better images.
I love the amount of detail you go into. There's a lot to learn with any Olympus/OM system camera and your channel is clearly another great place to learn.
Another wonderful video! Great idea about using HiRes for copying of negatives -- I hope you do a dedicated video on best practices for doing that with the OM1.
Perfect video, thank you. As for the post-processing - I'm using Photoshop and ACR (no sharpening) and then do sharpening in Topaz Sharpener - results are amazing and way better I have got from 40 Mpix FF camera (I know about scene movement issues) for landscape photography
Thank you! The reason for the results being better is most likely the combination of the optical excellency of MFT lenses and the powerful feature. Thank you for sharing your workflow!
Once again you have produced an excellent, informative video. Your explanations are always clear, concise and extremely valuable: so another big thank you from me, Thomas.
Huge thanks for another in depth fascinating OM-1 video Thomas. This is a feature I look forward to trying very much. I feel inspired by your video's to explore these capabilities of the OM-1. 🙏🏻
Really great job on implementing the HR capabilities of the OM-1 -- I don't find anyone else doing this! I cannot wait until you have even more content on OM Workspace. Have you ever successfully combined multiple HHHR images together, same exact image, to create the noise-averaging/cancelling effect of the NDF? How would I do this?
Many thanks! So, yes! You can definitely combine HHHR shots - export 16-bit TIFFs and utilize Affinity Photo by creating a stack. It is basically "regular" frame averaging. In practice, you probably don't need to that as the HHHR files are pretty clean already, I'd say!
Thanks again. This is one of my favorite features and you have expanded my meager understanding of it in very helpful ways. Another computational mode that I could use more understanding of is Live ND. I noticed recently someone using it for long exposure images of a night sky on a tracking mount to add dynamic range and reduce noise. I have done hand held high res on tracking mounts (slight movements and vibrations and atmospheric disturbances equate in the camera to micro movements I believe. It did result in better images although stacking many images manually still seems the best because in these cases we don’t have enough photons per second and require many minutes of exposure to get the best results. Anyway I figure you will eventually get around to most of these modes and I can’t wait to see what you discover. Thanks again. I’m definitely going to explore the filmic looks you recommended toward the end.
Hey Jeffrey! Thank you very much for your contribution - I will cover LiveND soon - it is a great mode and it can be used in mans different ways to improve IQ or for creative effects. Stay tuned - and thanks again for your kind words!
Thank you, thank you, thank you...🙏, without a doubt the best free contributions that make life easier for the users of the magnificent OM system. A couple of weeks ago my new OM1 MarkII arrived at home and I am very happy, but watching this magnificent tutorial has opened up the possibility of obtaining portraits with that film look (at 25,000ISO) with the high resolution mode (which if we add 14bits even better color depth). Thank you for your generosity in sharing these detailed and well-explained studies.
Fantastic! I wait all your lessons and follow them at least twice; I don't want to lose any word. Your suggestions encourage me to obtain more, much more, by a generous device.
Great to read, Sergio! The next one is already in the making and it will contain crucial info for shooting under artificial lighting! Many thanks again!
Once again you find a way to explain the principles and then how to get the most out of what the OM1 has to offer Thomas. Without necessarily getting bogged down in showing us all the deep details about where the menu settings are. I love this and it gives me motivation to try out the things you are demonstrating. I also love the specifics that you talked about here - which mode to use for which situation, and the nitty gritty about eg whether you can use flash or not. Some of that info must be impossible to find any other way! Well done!
Very interesting. I rarely do High Res shot but will probably use it more often. I will refer to this video again. So a coffee is certainly in order. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Thank you for the in-depth explanation and tips for setting um the OM-System cameras. I've started using HR mode more on my OM-5, but have now tweaked my settings to achieve better results. Excellent work.
This inspired me to get out to experiment a bit more with night sky photography to examine some options I may not have considered in the past, due to limitations in accessing higher ISO reading on models prior to the OM-1 with handheld high resolution. It's very interesting, to say the least, to see what is possible without a tracking mount to record night sky and Milky Way images at ISO25,600, allowing for some potentially cleaner out of camera results with better star formation and still have accurate colors, for the most part. In the past, with the OM-D bodies, I have used hand held high resolution on a tracking mount successfully, to mitigate noise somewhat, as the tracking mount is still adjusting and moving enough for the sensor to detect and calculate the pixel shifting. But I wanted to see, based on your details, how it might work at very high ISO and shorter shutter speeds to get a hand held high resolution shot on a tripod and there is just the one main hurdle for hand held high resolution of acquiring enough details in the frame to do the calculations. If there aren't enough stars and 'material' in the frame to identify, it may fail to make the composite. The safe bet without a tracking mount is still to take a series and stack them using software designed for this. Using focus assist, I have been able to get usable hand held high resolution shots at the extended ISO ranges, as well when I don't have any tripod available and can try and steady myself against something like a building or fence. It's even sometimes a possibility to utilize Live Composite mode on the OM-1, as it now allows IBIS to be functional, so it can 'account' for slight movements in star fields, so long as the individual exposures are not longer than allowed to prevent trailing for the particular focal length and aperture. But that will take a little more experimenting to see how and when to use such a mode on a not tracked image where. landscape is stationary and sky is not stationary, relative to earth. It may still require composite work, similar to stacking frames.
Thank you so much for taking the time sharing your very valuable experiences - as I have none at all in the field of astro, this is really great! As you just demonstrated, creative use of the state of the art features goes a long way - even if not everything is possible, many things are and greatly help to expand what is possible with the OM-1! Many thanks!
Hi Thomas, thank you for your in-depth explanation. I was quite excited about this feature on my E-M 1 III, but the results were constantly rather disappointing. I have made a couple of quick test shots after watching your video and I'm happy to say it finally seems to work! Vielen Dank und viele Grüsse aus Tschechien!
Thank you Thomas! This video was very timely. Tomorrow I will be doing some architectural photos for a colleague, and I will definitely be using tripod Hi-Res mode.🙏
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Thank you again Thomas. The photo shoot was very good. I liked it that, using the tripod Hi-Res mode, blurred the people that crossed into the photographs, producing a sense of space and movement for the architectural photos without making the people identifiable. In some architectural pictures it adds a new dimension to the photos. I would not have thought to use the tripod Hi-Res mode if not for this video. I am buying you some coffee 😀!
Thank you very much for the coffee ☕! And I am very happy to hear that the feature performed as you expected it to. I agree, the blur effect can greatly contribute to the look. Very special!
Thanks for taking the time for this wonderful and detailed look into the hi-res mode on the OM-1. I haven't done a lot with this other than to try it briefly. As someone who enjoys landscape above most other photographic genres (surely it's okay to use that term?), I found your advice most useful. I might even have a play with a series of sequential hi-res photos at differing exposures as if I was bracketing just to see the results, and see how they combine as a HDR image. It's great to experiment! I chose M43 for its light weight and portability, fully expecting the scorn of FF users. (Which is plentiful, nonetheless.) I'm feeling that the future of M43 is looking bright, given the capabilities of software - both in-camera and on a computer are yielding increasingly impressive results.
Hey Michael! Bracketing High Res Shot images and combining them later using tone mapping or exposure blending is a very good idea. Regarding the quality of the MFT system: as you might know, I also have digital medium format in my arsenal. Nonetheless, I mostly use MFT - the quality of it is just so outstanding and the mobility aspect is very relevant. Being able to bring all the lenses I want without breaking my back, well, that is just invaluable! Thank you for your contribution!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography I entirely empathize with you re lugging around heavy equipment and is one reason why I moved to the OM-1 from APS-C (having decided against the Panasonic GH6 for several reasons), and am constantly delighted with its image quality. Another is the weather-sealing. I suspect (and genuinely hope) that subsequent OM cameras take computational photography further and further to the benefit of image quality and versatility, adding combinations to the list of available options (HDR +Hi-res, for example). Software currently is doing remarkable things with images, and I think there is a lot more to come. DxO, Topaz, and ON1 are adding to their feature list and refining those features they already have, to the benefit of creativity. I think the future for M43 could very well be bright.
I have been incredibly impressed with your OM-1 content - so glad to have found your channel. If I could give some feedback on this video in particular, however, many of the examples seems very soft. You'd make a comment like "every hair is razor sharp", and much of it seemed to be out of focus or blurry. Or you'd zoom in on the eyes and the flashes weren't sharp at all. Perhaps it's TH-cam's compression, but either way your explanations made it seem like the results would be extraordinary, but the presentation on screen was anything but.
Consider that what the author sees is probably being displayed on a 4K or 5K monitor. The TH-cam feed of his images appears to be restricted to 1080p. I have a 4K monitor and I can confirm that the difference in image quality of a 4K image is significantly degraded when I lower the resolution of the same image to 1080p.
Hey Marco, as Jack Pearson pointed out, this has to do with TH-cam and the viewing conditions. You've got to trust me on this one - the images are spectacular. Thank you very much for the feedback, that is very much appreciated - and welcome to the channel!
Nice & interesting review, Tomas ! I am fan of high-res tripod mode. When I shot waterfalls or waves, it works like an ND for the water (it smooths the water). Regarding the flash, I found that some flashes can create vibrations in the high-res mode and soften the picture. So perhaps the best is to put on the camera only the radio-trigger to command remotely the flashes.
This is really amazing. And your videos are so informative and well made. I’m not a professional at all, but I’ve been wanting to take the big step up from my old Canon DSLR, mainly for bird photography. Even though I have a lot to learn still, it seemed like a great choice because it’s far cheaper and smaller than the competition. The bird tracking and the various other computational modes really appeal to me. I’ll be experimenting with all sorts of photography styles with it. And I wanted something that I can potentially keep and use for a decade or more. To consume less over the long term. Thanks for the great tips. I intend to do some landscapes with the high-res mode. Perhaps I’ll dabble in portraits too. Why not? :)
Thank you very much Chris! The OM-1 is really the camera to provide all of that, I'm convinced. On top of that: You can bring it everywhere. It can be small and compact, but also "big" and comfortable. It can do street, studio portrait, landscape, sports, birds - everything. What I hear from your descriptions is exactly that: it encourages to try out new things. It won't get in your way. It will just inspire you. Believe it or not: I've never been interested in wildlife, but now, I just bought a long tele for the OM-1 to do exactly that. So we are on the same page, I'd say! Great comment, I really appreciate that. And welcome to the channel!
Fantastic information. I have the Olympus E-M1.3 which can do the same, albeit more slowly. I look forward to trying this for my landscape work. Many thanks, Thomas.
Isn't it incredible? I mean, it is even harder to tell wildlife to remain still! It really is a great feature of the OM-1, makes it much more capable! Thanks for sharing!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography I've had a lot of luck photographing perched owls with HHHR, since they're very still! Had perfectly sharp results with shutter speeds as low as 1/125s using the 300mm F4 Pro.
Thomas, I am hoping you can shed some light on the correct settings for image stabilization on the 100-400mm lens. I have been given several conflicting versions from multiple sources - the first is that I should set the lens IS switch to "ON" and the internal menu setting Menu 1/8, "Lens IS Priority to "ON". I have also been told the opposite - Turn off the lens IS switch, and set "Lens IS Priority" to "ON". One source said it was distance dependent, and that for longer range shots at 400mm I should use the lens IS and Lens IS Priority "ON" settings. Since I am hesitant to spend the $7500 to upgrade to the 15-400 lens, I need to wring the best results out of my existing lens:). BTW, I have taken numerous shots with these settings, and while I think I can see a preference for the second combination in close (10 Meter subject distance), I cannot see any consistent difference in field conditions, usually shooting birds at 10 - 60 Meters distance.
Hi Thomas and thank you for your guidance within OM Systems. Can you explain a little more about how the high resolution mode works when the image is taken, how moving subjects work and can you move the camera while the image is being processed.
Most welcome! Very interesting question but unfortunately, that is a bit complex so I cannot explain it here with a simple comment, but if you join the channel, you can bring this up during one of the upcoming members only Livestreams! Best, Thomas
Really useful! I wasn't aware of the desirability of turning off the lens IS, and so plan to try that. Also, I didn't understand the use-case differences between tripod and handheld mode, or that handheld mode works fine, albeit differently, on a tripod. As usual, the manual isn't very helpful. Thanks for putting this info out there.
Thank you for your video. I have now fully understand the High Res program. Just one question> What about the delays that can be programmed into the High Res shots. Some are talking about up to 4 seconds. You have not mentioned it at all.
Great to hear! The delays act as a self timer. If you set them, the camera will wait the set amount of time. I recommend using the self timer instead. You can change it without going into the menu!
Thomas - minor error in my previous comment/request. Should read : Thomas, I am hoping you can shed some light on the correct settings for image stabilization on the 100-400mm lens. I have been given several conflicting versions from multiple sources - the first is that I should set the lens IS switch to "ON" and the internal menu setting Menu 1/8, "Lens IS Priority to "ON". I have also been told the opposite - Turn off the lens IS switch, and set "Lens IS Priority" to "OFF". One source said it was distance dependent, and that for longer range shots at 400mm I should use the lens IS switch "ON" and Lens IS Priority "OFF" settings. Since I am hesitant to spend the $7500 to upgrade to the 15-400 lens, I need to wring the best results out of my existing lens:). BTW, I have taken numerous shots with these settings, and while I think I can see a preference for the second combination in close (10 Meter subject distance), I cannot see any consistent difference in field conditions, usually shooting birds at 10 - 60 Meters distance.
Hello Richard! Thankfully, the answer is pretty simple. If the mounted lens has an IS switch, the setting of the switch will always overrule the menu setting. My recommendation for the lens you are using is to turn the Lens IS on - it will do a better job than the IBIS as the focal length is so long. Also keep the shutter speeds as fast as possible - even though the lens has an excellent stabilizer, you can really improve the results by doing so. Let me know if this was helpful!
You can use handheld high res mode on a tripod to get a quasi star tracker if your picture is mostly the sky. The camera will inadvertently correct for the earth rotation in body in long exposure
Thank you very much for posting this interesting observation. I don't own an OM-1 or another Olympus camera but I am considering to buy it. It will VERY important to know if you have tried which is the maximum amount of time that this effect of star tracking is achieved. Thanks again.
Thanks Matt anyway. I hope someone could tell us more on that. My guess is that this effect should last only by very few seconds as much. Otherwise would be a way to track stars that OM would have given more relevance to promote OM-1 camera.
Another excellent video; thank you very much. This is a very good, in depth treatment of the high res mode of the OM-1. You mention that the RAW file will always be saved at maximum resolution - is this 80MP? After watching your videos, I am more impressed by the capabilities of the OM-1 and am seriously thinking about buying one.
Hey Alex! Many thanks for the feedback! Yes, 80 MP if you use tripod mode and 50 MP if you use the handheld mode. The OM-1 is an amazing camera and for sure my best purchase decision in a long long time. I can wholeheartedly recommend it, you won't regret getting one. Let me know if you got one, would be nice to know!
Thank you again, I use hi res all the time for landscape and macro, the hand held mode is so practical... I absolutelly love it, it's great for night city photography. Another gem is hdr for crazy dynamic range and noise free images. I also use it all the time for landscape photography
Thank you very much for sharing that and your kind words! I would really like to hear about your experiences with the HDR modes - which are you using - and are you shooting RAW or JPEG with them?
Most of the time I use the hand held 50Mp hires mode and always save jpeg+raw. I have used it for composite panoramas and absolutely love the result I get with it. I came from the em1 mkii and being able to use this mode while hand holding the camera is great! For "in studio like conditions macro photography" these modes also work very well, I had no idea that one could use a flash with the tripod hires mode, I've been using LED lights, I have to experiment with it a bit. Again, thank you for your videos there is always something to learn from them!
Hi Thomas, excellent video that I really enjoyed watching. I have used the hi-res modes on my G9 and now on my OM-1, and the one thing I struggle to undersyand is why people believe you would require a lens that could resolve 50 or 80 mega pixles. Each of the individual shots that are used to generate the composite hi-res image are only 20MP, so this would surely be all the lens would need to resolve. Perhaps you have a different view on this?
Hey Paul - great to hear! The truth is in the middle and the answer is not as straightforward. You are right, each individual shot is only 20 MP, the thing is that the sensor is moved around in tripod mode, so if the lens would not be able to resolve more than 20 MP, the benefit would be there but not as big - it is very similar to diffraction (th-cam.com/video/NAMxTN3vzRA/w-d-xo.html) and the airy disk. In any case, even a kit lens does give you better IQ with high res than without it. Does the lens really have to resolve 50 MP - I'd say no. But the better the lens, the better the High Res result!
Hi Thomas, I am new to Olympus and OM1 so your videos are a huge help. I like focus stacking flowers. Can I use high res tripod mode at the same time please, obviously when there is no movement
Hey Deborah & welcome to the OM System as well as to my channel! Unfortunately, you can only use one or the other at the same time. The good news: focus stacking also drastically increases fidelity, although it does not increase the resolution. So you will end up with high quality 20MP files that are suitable for very large prints!
Do you recommend using OM workspace for the raw conversion of high res shots or is Lightroom for example usable too? I've heard the latter brings out far less details unless aggressive sharpening is applied. Interested in your thoughts on the matter. On a side note, I hope your cat is feeling better!
I really recommend using OM Workspace for processing Olympus files in general. In a future video, I will share my workflow that I use for all pro and free shoots. I currently do not have Lightroom, so I cannot really say anything about it. Here is the short workflow recommendation: process the file in Workspace (picture mode, exposure, white balance, and like), export a tiff or jpeg. Then crop, and fine tune in affinity photo / photo shop / similar. The cat is back on her paws 🐾, thankfully! Many thanks for asking
Great video, thanks. I do have one concern though. Yes, lens quality is perhaps the most important thing in any camera system, but I'm not sure optical performance is any more critical with these HR modes. Reason being, that any single image making up the composite is no more than the base resolution (or 20 MP). So there is no additional demand on optical performance than for a regular image. This may be yet one more advantage for HR pixel shift camera modes. You can get higher resolution without needing upgraded glass compared to a system that upgrades resolution through an increase in base number of photo sites on the sensor.
I know exactly what you mean - and I've been pondering about that as well. Here are my thoughts: For tripod high-res mode: If the camera really does not move (and it should not) the lens has a maximum resolving power limit. For example, it will project 1.000 separate hairs of the subject. If I put a high res sensor behind the lens or move a low res sensor around, the lens will still only depict 1.000 separate hairs. This is rather theoretical, but nonetheless, it should be valid. It is what I like to phrase as "the lens resolves - the sensor records". If we look at handheld mode, things might be a bit different, as the camera is calculating a higher resolution image based on camera movement. And if the lens moves and we take a picture at each step, we can end up exceeding the total resolving power of the lens - at least potentially. We are on the same page here! So here is the big question: should we really worry about the maximum resolving power - I'd say no, because in practice, the MFT lenses are so good that they deliver for the high res modes as well. Thanks for bringing this up, it is a very relevant and interesting point to discuss - Would love to hear back from you!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Thanks for the thoughtful reply. You have an interesting perspective on the subject I'll need to think more about. I guess I still see it as the lines per mm requirement for the lens is the same since each individual image in the composite is still the native sensor resolution. The composite itself is just a mathematical computation not relying on additional lens quality. For sure most all the fantastic Olympus /OM optics are more than up to the task. Here's a potential experiment for a future video..... Run both HR options with a quality lens pointed at a test chart, then run again with a skylight filter (or even clear glass) effectively reducing optical quality. Then compare all the results. It's likely even more degraded glass than a filter would be required such that you might observe no additional resolution with HR compared to base (if that's what's going on). Maybe a filter with thin film of grease?!? Would be a bit of an undertaking and would be essential to keep all exposure parameters equal so as to not skew results. The test itself would not absolutely give an answer (very subjective), but may be interesting none the less. Appreciate your time.
I shoot astrophotography and have wondered if some of the resolving capabilities of lenses and sensors are just beyond the limits imposed in a single exposure due to sampling and statistical variations inherent in the digital image sensor’s design. By taking 8 or 12 samples and compositing them we can interpolate a higher resolution beyond the limits of the existing sensor. Maybe not to the limits of an actual 50 or 80 MP sensor, but to the human eye, noticeably better. In deep space photography we have to rely on these techniques in photography for decades. We call this “drizzle”. Stacking and slight shifting at sub pixel levels helps overcome the problems that limit resolution of any particular imaging system. It is interesting that iso200 is limiting some resolving ability that iso80 with pixel shifting can overcome. Also we have to try and guess as to how the stacked sensor in the OM-1 may sample differently than previous sensors such that the results of high res mode might be more favorably affected. But I don’t know for a fact if it matters. I’m just savvy enough about the physics to note that the sampling of photons over time is an important factor. But so is heat and the sensor readout accuracy. In some metaphorical sense, a digital camera is using a shotgun approach in reverse. The sensor os the target and the photons bouncing off things in front of it leave their marks. The more the better. More to the point P WX makes, I have in the past, before pixel shifting in cameras was possible, taken a series of eight images and offset them 1/2 pixel in each direction at 45 degree increments in PS to apply a mean averaging in order to create similarly better detailed images. This was done years ago mainly for lunar and planetary photography. I learned the technique from a well known astronomer.
Thanks for this Thomas. I was confused when the IBIS read "auto" with my sync IS lens on, but you cleared up my confusion. In this case, when HH high res in on and lens stabe is on, IBIS "auto" is actually automatically "off". This was really confusing me. I assumed that "auto" was a mode of IS on.
Excellent video Thomas, thanks! What I do not understand is why handheld high-res works on a tripod… you would need some micro-movements for the method to work. A perfectly still camera will defeat the purpose, no?
Thank you very much! I agree, it sounds like it should not work, but here is the thing - the minimal noise differences and the in-sensor IS generate enough "variance" between the frames for the mode to work. Side by side tests I've done showed that even with everything perfectly still, the image quality greatly improved! So I'm as surprised as you are haha.
Thank you for this video. Really helpful. One question: what software do you prefer, when handling highres files? I am using Capture One. Is OM Workspace any better?
Great to hear! I have not tested capture one for that, but in general I recommend Workspace for OM files and then working with a second program like affinity photo for cropping and fine tuning. I'll share a video about this workflow soon!
This video is the best video explanation yet on this feature. I cannot myself leverage hand-held highres mode on my E-M1III with good results, the images come out with more pixels - but not more details when zoomed in - it looks fuzzy. It might be me. I think for me I will have to try with tripod mode.
Many thanks for the feedback! Your results - that's rather strange, it should not be like that. Could it be that you are processing the RAW files in programs other than Workspace?
@@ThomasEisl.Photographyso, I’ve had the chance to retry with my E-M1III using a tripod and the 80MP mode - and managed to get an impressive result at 100mm, f5.6 with the 12-100. I’ve found that the key step is to do the raw processing in Workspace like you described and set the sharpening in Workspace to maximum value. Any slight vibration in the setup results in bad results, I took four high res shots on tripod, out of the four identical shots one was noticeably fuzzy, one was somewhat less detailed compared to the other two shots out of the four. I will try more handheld shots at 50MP and see what I can get.
I'm glad you mentioned digitising film. It's primarily what I use High Res for, with the EM-1ii. 40MP is plenty for 35mmm negs, especially when it's mostly HP5 pushed two stops. The 80MP will be great once I get around shooting some more 120 film with my Mamiya 645 as it has the 4:3 ratio. One thing I have noticed though is doesn't show the film grain as clearly as it did when using my Canon 6D. I need to do some more tests when I get the chance.
Thanks for sharing that Chris! One reason for less film grain can be micro vibrations - I had that as well. The high res tripod mode is very delicate in that regard!
I really like the Leica 25, 42.5 and the OM Pro lenses as well as the 75mm Zuiko for High Res. Even the 14-42 can be used, but of course the results will be held back a little. Thank you for your kind words!
Fantastic video as always! Quick question: what is the longest shutter speed possible when using high res mode? I believe in the Panasonics it is 1 second. Can the OM1 shoot longer? Thanks.
So, in handheld mode, the body's IS-Auto can "cooperate" with an OMD lens that has in-lens stabilization. Do you happen know what would be the behaviour with another lens, for example, 100-400 Panasonic lens with OIS. If the lens OIS is kept on, is there a possibility that the OIS and handheld hi-rez mode will interfere with each other?
Very helpful. But I was confused by your comments about highlights being clipped for +3 EV at ISO 200. Does this mean that you shouldn't use high res mode where there are extreme highlights? What is the best way to handle them while still taking a high res shot?
Hey Steve! Thanks for the feedback. To answer your question: This means that if you set the exposure for a scene and use the spot metering function to check, no part should be over +3 EV, as it will be solid white then. In standard mode, you have about one stop more latitude. I've got a separate video up, illustrating that in more detail: th-cam.com/video/rYRa9zLOgXs/w-d-xo.html Hope this helped!
Thank you, Thomas, for the very informative series on OM System cameras. I have a question. Is it possible to do high-res tripod mount photos and focus bracketing/stacking simultaneously? This would be incredibly useful for landscape photography.
I was very interested in your statement that with the tripod high-res mode an ISO of 80 was best. Everything I have read about general shooting with the OM-1 indicates that staying with ISO 200 is best, and lower ISO values reduce dynamic range and only need to be used when you need to reduce sensitivity in very bright targets. What makes the Tripod high-res mode?
I completely agree and I also advise using ISO 200 for the best overall IQ (resolution, noise, dynamic range and so on). My testing revealed, however, that in tripod high res mode ISO 80 will give you the best detail resolution - it is understandable from a mathematical-technical standpoint I'd say. However, the dynamic range will be limited further down to +2.3 EV in the highlights. I even try to keep the highlights at +2 EV to be on the extra safe side. So we are on the same page here - ISO 80 is only for very special cases, but I wanted to mention it for a complete picture. See more details: www.thomaseisl.photography/technique/om-system-om-1-high-res-shot
Thank you very much for your generous support, Michael! Yes, this will be possible - with Handheld High Res and the Monopod, you should get good results!
Thomas, I learn a lot from all your videos. I’m still skeptical, however, about this high resolution photography with the OM-1. When I do some serious pixel peeping between a standard 20mp shot with a 80mp tripod shot I see no difference! Seems to me it should be up to four times better. I’m shooting with my 12-40 f2.8 pro lens and being very careful about all the stuff you discussed. Only thing I didn’t do was use ISO 80 for the high res tripod shot. Can you tell me why I can’t see a noticeable improvement?
Hello William! Many thanks for the feedback and your question. There are several possibilities why you are experiencing almost no difference: 1) Miniscule camera shake and similar variables can eliminate additional Detail easily (also subject movement, of course). 2) Varying focusing accuracy. 3) Lens limitations. 4) While 80 MP is four times the resolution, this does not mean 4 times the resolution - as we are talking about a rectangular surface. So depending on the subject, it might be very hard to spot the additional details. 5) magnification bias - you have to magnify both images to the same degree to compare them. 6) Image Processing - Hi Res Shot images need a certain level of post processing to reveal all details - unless you use OM Workspace, which will give optimized results right out of the box. Long story short, I can assure you there is a quantifiable & measurable différence. In the future, I might provide a precise MTF-calculation and publish LP/PH values. Hope this helps!
Just wondering Thomas, do you know if Godox AD300 and 400s are compatible with the OM1s high res shot? Really loving all the features of this camera and the fact that it can sync to 1/100 when performing these shots actually makes them usable, unlike Sony, Fuji, Nikon or Canon since that wouldn’t allow much ambient light. The others all let in the ambient unless you stack ND filters.
Hallo, wieder sehr gut gemacht! Eine dumme Frage: Stehen all diese Informationen eigentlich im Handbuch? Ich hab`das Teil noch nie, auch nicht im Ansatz, gelesen.
Unfortunately, there is no official public document that discloses that. Be that as it may, it seems that the composite process itself is also able to compensate for a certain amount of frame-to-frame movements. Therefore, my practical guideline is nonetheless the mentioned 1/60, as this is according to my experiences a "practical" value.
Another question: Do you think the same idea is usable on the OM5? I know high res works a little different there but in theory it should also give similar results right? Might need a little higher shutter speed to compensate for the fact it shoots more images during the process if I recall correctly, say 1/150th instead of 1/100th maybe...🤔
Hey Arian! It took me a while, but now I have the answer: The OM-5 has a sensor readout speed of around 1/50. Therefore, increasing the shutter speed will most likely not decrease the total exposure time beyond a certain limit. However, it will decrease the potential motion blur in each frame helping the composition algorithm. I´ve tried HHHRes portraits with a pre-production M1X back in the day and it also worked. Long story short: The OM-5 will also work, even though it is a bit slower than the OM-1. Best wishes! 📸
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Thanks for coming back to me! I love how much you interact with everyone in the comments! I had the chance to try this out this weekend for myself on the OM-5 and my conclusion is that for most candid shots of people it will not work. I suspect that is because of the readout speed as you mention. There is just too much movement and it results in artefacts unfortunately. Luckily however, if you try it and it fails you still get the 20mp version as well and it is unaffected. So nothing lost except a bit of waiting time. For portraits where you can ask someone to hold still for a moment this is still absolutely viable I agree! The OM-1 is a big improvement in this regards it seems.
Most welcome - thanks for sharing that! It is important to note that even with the OM-1, it does not work without artifacts if the people do not hold still enough. But yes, as you've said, the 1 is a quite a bit faster. Thanks again for sharing that, this is invaluable input!
I'd recommend stacking/bracketing if it is about DoF. If you need high res and dof, then go for high res + manual focus bracketing. That's not easy to do, but the results are very impressive.
I'm puzzled too by the results indicating a better performance for tripod high res shot on iso 80 vs 200. Can't imagine any reason why anything should give better results than sensors native iso. However results >imagination 🤷♂️
Here is the thing: ISO 200 should be used for 99% of all situations, especially when non-high res is used. In high res, by using ISO 80 you get a bit more details due to the way the image is generated and the way the raw file is exposed, but you also get significantly less dynamic range - even less than when using high res at ISO 200 which gives you less DR in the highlights than regular capture. So to conclude: in tripod mode, ISO 200 for best overall IQ, ISO 80 for best resolving power
Hi Thomas ! For portraiture you'll prefer a 1/200s 6400 ISO HighRes Shot than a classical 20MP 1/50s 1600 ISO shot in terms of image quality ? 🤔Thanks !
Hi Enzo! In terms of image quality, the High Res variant will yield better results. However, I would go with the "classic" in 80% of the cases, as sometimes models don't remain sufficiently still. If they don't, there is always the backup, but of course this is then captured at 6.400. I'd suggest trying both variants to see what you prefer. Best, Thomas
I am considering switching to the OM-1 from a Nikon D750, including buying OM lenses. I am a landscape photographer. My question is this. In the field I take both handheld and tripod shots. With the OM-1 I would turn on IS on both the lens and the body. What if I forget to turn them off when I put the camera on a tripod?. You said it is not recommended to do that, but what happens if you do. How does that affect normal (non-hi res) shots and hi-res shots? By the way, I like your understated, calm, measured way of speaking.
Hey Colin! So here is the thing: for regular photography, even if you leave the stabilizer on with the camera on the tripod, you probably won't run into any issues. I never did. Theoretically, the system could introduce very slight blur if the camera is completely still. But that is very theoretical. For handheld / tripod, the camera automatically adjust the settings. You can only decide whether to use the lens IS or the in body IS when using HHHRes as I described in the video. So once you got the OM-1, you will see that it is pretty straightforward. Hope this helped, keep me posted regarding your decision!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography I have been torn in opposite directions with respect to a camera change. On the one hand, I considered Fuji Medium format because I love the idea of a large print with incredible detail. On the other hand, I like the small size and weight of MFT. What decided me is my iphone 14 Pro. The quality of the raw images is outstanding; in fact many of my best portfolio shots are taken with the phone. Given that, the reduced resolution of the MFT format should not be a problem; it will be better than the resolution of my iphone. And, if I want something approaching a medium format, I can use the Hi-Res option of the OM-1, subject to the constraints you highlighted in your very helpful video. (I subscribed by the way.)
For sure a good decision - the two key aspects of MFT are that is both small enough to accompany you everywhere and good enough to get every job done. I'm sure you'll be satisfied!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography handheld super telephoto is almost impossible, but that was f9 and 1/100 The high res raw has much less noise, much better than the jpg The raw high res seems to be always 80 or 50 depending on the mode
Thomas..would you use this camera for interior architectural/real estate type photos or product shots or would dslr or full frame better suited? I feel that having the om1 would reduce post processing correction considerably??
Thank you very much for asking - I would definitely recommend the OM-1 for these genres - especially as it has some other very relevant tricks: Like Live Composite. I plan on doing a video on that and share how it can be used for interior photography to great effect. Additional features like the in-camera perspective control and very good image processing definitely help cutting down the post processing time, in my oppinion. Personally, I really like DSLRs, but in terms of productivity & practicability, the OM-1 has a lot to offer - and on top of that, M43 is the most compact professional camera system on the market. So really, it makes work easy in many ways.
@@ThomasEisl.Photography please advise lenses for interior that heed less distortion ..pity they dont have a tilt-shift, but guess that post work one can rectify accordingly. Lenses will be key to interior work Im sure super fast needed aswell as for low light night work. Thinking 17mm 2.8 or lower primes, but i seem to always lean towards faster zooms mostly for creative stealth shots and capturing special moments from a distance…
Thank you very much Ton! I have to admit that I rarely use the 25 MP mode - one use case would be if you want to do the filmic portraits at ultra-high ISO and you just want the look but not the resolution. Apart from that , even the 25 MP images are sharper and crisper than the regular 20 MP files - so if you do not need the resolution but want the "crispiness", it is a viable option.
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One thing I've discovered is that to unlock the magic of OM System High res photography, you may need to import the images to OM Workspace first. I know that's true with Adobe Lightroom Classic. I have not tested whether this is true of other photo processing software, as I don't have any. But in my testing, high resolution files imported into OM Workspace then exported as TIFFs to Lightroom are significantly sharper than files processed entirely in Lightroom. High res mode images of B&W negative film processed initially in OM Workspace will clearly and sharply show the film grain; LR-only images will be much fuzzier.
Yes, completely agree! I have adopted a very similar workflow for exactly the same reasons. Thanks for sharing, Barry!
I do the same thing with the high res modes. OM Workspace also does a better job with standard RAW files, especially for fine details like skin texture and highly saturated colors where you want good color gradation. Like blue skies or red flowers. If I don't need the better feature set of Lightroom, I try to process the file solely in OM WS (or export an edited TIFF into LR).
I learn more about my camera in 15 minutes with you than I have in the year I've owned it!
Thank you very much Tony!
I am amazed at the superiority of the ISO 6400 high res shot in low light, when compared to the long exposure ISO 200 "standard method". Even more remarkable are the uses you explain for portraiture at insanely high ISO's. I am excited to apply the high res modes in more and more situations. Thanks for your outstanding video and information. OM should applaud and support your generous work for them.
Thank you very much for the kind and much appreciated feedback - this is great to read!
Hi Thomas! Having watched some of your OM-1 content, I can confidently state that I feel more excited than ever about getting the most out of my camera system. Thank you!
That is so cool to hear - the OM-1 is really a camera that grows on you the more you use it and its advanced functions and modes!
Have a great weekend and happy shooting :-)
I’ve had all the Olympus cameras except for the Mx1 and I’ve never used high res, in either mode. And I agree with you about the color at high ISO. That’s what convinced me to buy the OM-1. The color shift in the shadows was impossible to deal with in post. It’s MUCH better on the OM-1. But the high res mode looks very interesting! You’ve inspired me to give it a try. I’m going to have to watch this video a couple more times to extract all the information from it. Great job Thomas!
Thank you Larry - I'm looking forward to hear about your experiences after trying HHHRes! Thanks for the kind comment & all the best!
Tx for a great overview of the features of HRes modes. One thing that is also good to know is that HHHR images respond very well to Topaz Sharpen AI - Motion Blur Sharpening.
Thank you for the kind feedback - and the great tip!
Impressive depth in your videos, 47.
Thank you very much, Mattias, I'm honored - especially as you occupy the top spot on my hit list - I mean playlist 😉
Best, Thomas 📸
Another very professional guide, thank you for making these for us Thomas.
One day, when I upgrade to an OM-1, I shall come back and watch them all again.
Hey Bob!
Great to read! The tips also apply to previous Olympus cameras, although the OM perfected the modes compared to the older models.
Love that tips on High Res at ISO 26,600 to create a film liked look! Another very well done video, cheers...
Thank you so much!
As an OM-1 amateur user, I look forward to each of your expert videos, and this is no exception. I was also wondering if you had any thoughts of assembling all the information you have into a book or an electronic guide to carry on a smart phone?
On his website, that you find in channel info, Thomas has a blog where you can find some of his expert guides in written form.
Yes, as @sourcebase kindly stated, you can find everything on my site - I´m also considering compiling one PDF as a portable reference guide in the future, it is a great idea!
Thank you for the kind feedback, so nice!
Great video. The hi res mode is the main reason I purchased the EM1 Mkii. It's a very important feature.
I agree!
Thank you very much for your kind words!
Another fantastic video with which we can appreciate and get to know our OM-1 even better. Thank you
Great to hear - the OM-1 is a gift that keeps on giving, in my opinion!
Thank you! At last, a presentation on the high res feature that gives more information than what is in the instruction manual.
Thank you very much for the kind feedback, great to hear!
Thank you very much Thomas. I do hope OMDS are watching these videos, they really show how to get the utmost benefit from the OM-1, in a crystal clear, calm format with zero self-promotion.
On the hires topic, first, it is really enlightening to see how “tripod mode” can benefit tripod photography! I guess in this case there is no gain in resolution, but the other benefits are clear. The other thing is post-processsing: some applications are a LOT better than others at decoding hires ORFs. CaptureOne does a truly appaling job. Adobe, so-so. OMWS is ok of course, but falls down in so many other areas that it it makes little sense to use it. I’ve found that for Hires tripod mode, DxO gives very impressive results, and for these files I now preproces in DxO to DNG, which I then import into CaptureOne.
It would be interesting to hear your thoughts on this part of the OM-1 workflow!
Hey David! Thank you very much for the great contribution!
I will share my Workflow soon - the trick is to limit the operations in OMWS to RAW conversion. Everything else I do in Affinity Photo. By doing so, the workflow is pretty efficient, effectively circumventing the shortcomings of OMWS.
I agree regarding HHHRes - it seems to nullify certain image defects and therefore greatly improves the IQ even though the camera is on the tripod.
Best wishes!
I was so excited to see this video! Your videos are becoming the gold standard for using the OM-1!
In February I shot an event that took place in a wine cellar (very low light) -- a launch party for a new small business -- and one shot was of the owner standing at a tallboy table in the cellar. I decided *not* to use flash to avoid harsh lighting, but I had to do much post-processing to get the image to be usable, and in the end, I was disappointed with the result because the delicate gold chain holding her diamond pendant was partially unrecoverable because of the ISO noise. Arrrgggh!! I wish that I had thought of using high-res mode to take the shot. I feel certain that it would have been FAR superior to the image I got as your video illustrates! Next time I hope to remember this fantastic capability of the OM-1!
Thank you so much for your kind comment and for sharing your experiences!
Low light is always very challenging, regardless of which camera you are using - but as you've said, with high res shot, you can get shots that you cannot without the mode enabled.
As long as the subject remains relatively still, you can get great IQ!
This and really all of your videos are amazingly interesting, insightful and extremely useful. Your point near the end with the portrait shot at 25,000 ISO and comparative to film and not having the overly digitized look. Spot on. I'm excited. HR
Many thanks! That is so great to read - I'm also very excited when it comes to this camera and its incredible capabilities. Best wishes!
Thomas - You are the only one that I have found that describes how the Oly camera hi-res actually works and how to get the most out of it. Thanks!
Thank you very much!
New site user with a OMD EM1 Mark II ,still find the content to be excellent and some what transferable. Just watched the video on in camera editing , was not even aware of how to use this function, so thanks very useful. Well presented with a large dose of practical advise, thanks Thomas !
Great to hear Ted, thank you very much! And yes, most of it is transferable to the still excellent M1II!
Astonishing, Thomas. Thank you. I will be pushing my OM-1 much further from now on. I had no idea hi-res was so good and, yes, I had considered it to be a bit of a gimmick so have not used it very much.
That is so great to read - please share your experiences if you have the time to do so. I hope it works out the way you expect it to - I myself truly love it, to be honest!
Thank you for showing so clearly that this mode is not a toy. The look you can achieve with it with high ISO in the end is truly astounding! Congrats for this discovery and thank you for sharing it so generously 🙏
Thank you very much - I'm also very hyped regarding the high ISO HHHR look! It is definitely usable, I'd say! Thanks for the comment and continued engagement, so happy to have you on the channel!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Elsewhere someone mentioned, that the technique was originally invented by astronomers to improve the resolution of the Hubble Space Telescope. Nicknamed DRIZZLE, the algorithm is called variable-pixel linear reconstruction. That could be true, at least what Wikipedia writes about how it works sounds quite familiar - we might have some space tech in our cameras. Thank you for your kind words and for having me!
That is very interesting! Thank you very much for sharing that - this sounds very plausible and is most likely the case!
Absolutely incredibly helpful content on your channel! Thank you for doing all the hard work and breaking it down for us so we can make use of these technologies in creating better images.
Thank you so much - that is just great to read!
I love the amount of detail you go into. There's a lot to learn with any Olympus/OM system camera and your channel is clearly another great place to learn.
Great to hear!
Another wonderful video! Great idea about using HiRes for copying of negatives -- I hope you do a dedicated video on best practices for doing that with the OM1.
I will - there is a content block about digitizing negatives / positives in the pipeline - stay tuned 🙂
Thanks for your extraordinary efforts, Thomas. Your work is a tremendous resource.
Thank you very much Michael for your kind words and your generous support! Thanks!
Perfect video, thank you. As for the post-processing - I'm using Photoshop and ACR (no sharpening) and then do sharpening in Topaz Sharpener - results are amazing and way better I have got from 40 Mpix FF camera (I know about scene movement issues) for landscape photography
Thank you!
The reason for the results being better is most likely the combination of the optical excellency of MFT lenses and the powerful feature.
Thank you for sharing your workflow!
Once again you have produced an excellent, informative video. Your explanations are always clear, concise and extremely valuable: so another big thank you from me, Thomas.
Thank you very much Pete, I'm honored!
Huge thanks for another in depth fascinating OM-1 video Thomas. This is a feature I look forward to trying very much. I feel inspired by your video's to explore these capabilities of the OM-1. 🙏🏻
That is great to hear - I also really like to push the limits of the OM-1 and keep exploring its capabilities, a very inspiring tool!
3 cups ☕of via Ko-fi - Thanks for the helpful tips. Looking forward to trying during road trip later this week
Wow, thank you so much - I very much appreciate that!
Please share how it turned out in practice, I'd be happy to know!
Helpful as always. Thank you.
My pleasure!
Brilliant tutorial again. Also, I am getting very comfortable with your slow-talking cadence. Bravo!
Thank you very much - do you think I should talk a bit faster?
Really great job on implementing the HR capabilities of the OM-1 -- I don't find anyone else doing this!
I cannot wait until you have even more content on OM Workspace.
Have you ever successfully combined multiple HHHR images together, same exact image, to create the noise-averaging/cancelling effect of the NDF? How would I do this?
Many thanks!
So, yes! You can definitely combine HHHR shots - export 16-bit TIFFs and utilize Affinity Photo by creating a stack.
It is basically "regular" frame averaging. In practice, you probably don't need to that as the HHHR files are pretty clean already, I'd say!
Thanks again. This is one of my favorite features and you have expanded my meager understanding of it in very helpful ways.
Another computational mode that I could use more understanding of is Live ND. I noticed recently someone using it for long exposure images of a night sky on a tracking mount to add dynamic range and reduce noise. I have done hand held high res on tracking mounts (slight movements and vibrations and atmospheric disturbances equate in the camera to micro movements I believe. It did result in better images although stacking many images manually still seems the best because in these cases we don’t have enough photons per second and require many minutes of exposure to get the best results.
Anyway I figure you will eventually get around to most of these modes and I can’t wait to see what you discover.
Thanks again. I’m definitely going to explore the filmic looks you recommended toward the end.
Hey Jeffrey!
Thank you very much for your contribution - I will cover LiveND soon - it is a great mode and it can be used in mans different ways to improve IQ or for creative effects.
Stay tuned - and thanks again for your kind words!
Thank you, thank you, thank you...🙏, without a doubt the best free contributions that make life easier for the users of the magnificent OM system. A couple of weeks ago my new OM1 MarkII arrived at home and I am very happy, but watching this magnificent tutorial has opened up the possibility of obtaining portraits with that film look (at 25,000ISO) with the high resolution mode (which if we add 14bits even better color depth). Thank you for your generosity in sharing these detailed and well-explained studies.
Many, many thanks for your feedback!
Fantastic! I wait all your lessons and follow them at least twice; I don't want to lose any word. Your suggestions encourage me to obtain more, much more, by a generous device.
Great to read, Sergio! The next one is already in the making and it will contain crucial info for shooting under artificial lighting! Many thanks again!
Once again you find a way to explain the principles and then how to get the most out of what the OM1 has to offer Thomas. Without necessarily getting bogged down in showing us all the deep details about where the menu settings are. I love this and it gives me motivation to try out the things you are demonstrating. I also love the specifics that you talked about here - which mode to use for which situation, and the nitty gritty about eg whether you can use flash or not. Some of that info must be impossible to find any other way! Well done!
Thank you very much for the exceptionally kind feedback!
Very interesting. I rarely do High Res shot but will probably use it more often. I will refer to this video again. So a coffee is certainly in order. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Thank you very much - that is great to read!
I'd love to know how it worked out for you in practice.
Brilliant content again Thomas - I keep learning so much. You are also the best dressed photography presenter on You Tube!
Many thanks - I'm glad you enjoying the content and I appreciate the feedback!
Great tips! Im super excited to try high res macro photography
Great to read! It works very well, in my experience.
Thank you for the in-depth explanation and tips for setting um the OM-System cameras. I've started using HR mode more on my OM-5, but have now tweaked my settings to achieve better results. Excellent work.
That is great to hear! Thanks for sharing and the kind feedback!
This inspired me to get out to experiment a bit more with night sky photography to examine some options I may not have considered in the past, due to limitations in accessing higher ISO reading on models prior to the OM-1 with handheld high resolution. It's very interesting, to say the least, to see what is possible without a tracking mount to record night sky and Milky Way images at ISO25,600, allowing for some potentially cleaner out of camera results with better star formation and still have accurate colors, for the most part. In the past, with the OM-D bodies, I have used hand held high resolution on a tracking mount successfully, to mitigate noise somewhat, as the tracking mount is still adjusting and moving enough for the sensor to detect and calculate the pixel shifting. But I wanted to see, based on your details, how it might work at very high ISO and shorter shutter speeds to get a hand held high resolution shot on a tripod and there is just the one main hurdle for hand held high resolution of acquiring enough details in the frame to do the calculations. If there aren't enough stars and 'material' in the frame to identify, it may fail to make the composite. The safe bet without a tracking mount is still to take a series and stack them using software designed for this. Using focus assist, I have been able to get usable hand held high resolution shots at the extended ISO ranges, as well when I don't have any tripod available and can try and steady myself against something like a building or fence.
It's even sometimes a possibility to utilize Live Composite mode on the OM-1, as it now allows IBIS to be functional, so it can 'account' for slight movements in star fields, so long as the individual exposures are not longer than allowed to prevent trailing for the particular focal length and aperture. But that will take a little more experimenting to see how and when to use such a mode on a not tracked image where. landscape is stationary and sky is not stationary, relative to earth. It may still require composite work, similar to stacking frames.
Thank you so much for taking the time sharing your very valuable experiences - as I have none at all in the field of astro, this is really great!
As you just demonstrated, creative use of the state of the art features goes a long way - even if not everything is possible, many things are and greatly help to expand what is possible with the OM-1!
Many thanks!
I am speechless! These images are astounding.
Thank you so muhc Donald, I very (!) much appreciate your kind words!
Hi Thomas,
thank you for your in-depth explanation. I was quite excited about this feature on my E-M 1 III, but the results were constantly rather disappointing. I have made a couple of quick test shots after watching your video and I'm happy to say it finally seems to work!
Vielen Dank und viele Grüsse aus Tschechien!
Wow! That is great to hear, Vaclav! I'm happy that the video helped in that regard!
Viele Grüße nach Tschechien hehe 👋
Thank you Thomas! This video was very timely. Tomorrow I will be doing some architectural photos for a colleague, and I will definitely be using tripod Hi-Res mode.🙏
That is great to hear - let me know, how did it work out?
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Thank you again Thomas. The photo shoot was very good. I liked it that, using the tripod Hi-Res mode, blurred the people that crossed into the photographs, producing a sense of space and movement for the architectural photos without making the people identifiable. In some architectural pictures it adds a new dimension to the photos. I would not have thought to use the tripod Hi-Res mode if not for this video. I am buying you some coffee 😀!
Thank you very much for the coffee ☕!
And I am very happy to hear that the feature performed as you expected it to. I agree, the blur effect can greatly contribute to the look. Very special!
The tripod high-resolution mode is amazing… great video Thomas
Regards Geoff
It truly is!
Thanks for the kind words, Geoffrey!
Many thanks for your kind efforts, it's so very useful. Much obliged...
You are welcome!
Thanks for taking the time for this wonderful and detailed look into the hi-res mode on the OM-1. I haven't done a lot with this other than to try it briefly. As someone who enjoys landscape above most other photographic genres (surely it's okay to use that term?), I found your advice most useful. I might even have a play with a series of sequential hi-res photos at differing exposures as if I was bracketing just to see the results, and see how they combine as a HDR image. It's great to experiment! I chose M43 for its light weight and portability, fully expecting the scorn of FF users. (Which is plentiful, nonetheless.) I'm feeling that the future of M43 is looking bright, given the capabilities of software - both in-camera and on a computer are yielding increasingly impressive results.
Hey Michael! Bracketing High Res Shot images and combining them later using tone mapping or exposure blending is a very good idea.
Regarding the quality of the MFT system: as you might know, I also have digital medium format in my arsenal. Nonetheless, I mostly use MFT - the quality of it is just so outstanding and the mobility aspect is very relevant. Being able to bring all the lenses I want without breaking my back, well, that is just invaluable!
Thank you for your contribution!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography I entirely empathize with you re lugging around heavy equipment and is one reason why I moved to the OM-1 from APS-C (having decided against the Panasonic GH6 for several reasons), and am constantly delighted with its image quality. Another is the weather-sealing. I suspect (and genuinely hope) that subsequent OM cameras take computational photography further and further to the benefit of image quality and versatility, adding combinations to the list of available options (HDR +Hi-res, for example). Software currently is doing remarkable things with images, and I think there is a lot more to come. DxO, Topaz, and ON1 are adding to their feature list and refining those features they already have, to the benefit of creativity. I think the future for M43 could very well be bright.
Completely agree!
Thanks again Thomas, very good and usable advice 😊
Thank you very much! Glad that you found it useful!
V excited to try this technique out. A big thank you,
That is great to hear - I'm pretty sure you will love the results!
I have been incredibly impressed with your OM-1 content - so glad to have found your channel. If I could give some feedback on this video in particular, however, many of the examples seems very soft. You'd make a comment like "every hair is razor sharp", and much of it seemed to be out of focus or blurry. Or you'd zoom in on the eyes and the flashes weren't sharp at all. Perhaps it's TH-cam's compression, but either way your explanations made it seem like the results would be extraordinary, but the presentation on screen was anything but.
Consider that what the author sees is probably being displayed on a 4K or 5K monitor. The TH-cam feed of his images appears to be restricted to 1080p. I have a 4K monitor and I can confirm that the difference in image quality of a 4K image is significantly degraded when I lower the resolution of the same image to 1080p.
Hey Marco, as Jack Pearson pointed out, this has to do with TH-cam and the viewing conditions. You've got to trust me on this one - the images are spectacular.
Thank you very much for the feedback, that is very much appreciated - and welcome to the channel!
Nice & interesting review, Tomas !
I am fan of high-res tripod mode. When I shot waterfalls or waves, it works like an ND for the water (it smooths the water).
Regarding the flash, I found that some flashes can create vibrations in the high-res mode and soften the picture. So perhaps the best is to put on the camera only the radio-trigger to command remotely the flashes.
Hey Toni! Thanks for the kind words and sharing your experiences regarding the flashes - I will definitely look into that!
This is really amazing. And your videos are so informative and well made. I’m not a professional at all, but I’ve been wanting to take the big step up from my old Canon DSLR, mainly for bird photography. Even though I have a lot to learn still, it seemed like a great choice because it’s far cheaper and smaller than the competition. The bird tracking and the various other computational modes really appeal to me. I’ll be experimenting with all sorts of photography styles with it. And I wanted something that I can potentially keep and use for a decade or more. To consume less over the long term. Thanks for the great tips. I intend to do some landscapes with the high-res mode. Perhaps I’ll dabble in portraits too. Why not? :)
Thank you very much Chris!
The OM-1 is really the camera to provide all of that, I'm convinced. On top of that: You can bring it everywhere. It can be small and compact, but also "big" and comfortable. It can do street, studio portrait, landscape, sports, birds - everything.
What I hear from your descriptions is exactly that: it encourages to try out new things. It won't get in your way. It will just inspire you.
Believe it or not: I've never been interested in wildlife, but now, I just bought a long tele for the OM-1 to do exactly that. So we are on the same page, I'd say!
Great comment, I really appreciate that. And welcome to the channel!
Thanks for the video. I truly enjoy you in-depth professional approach.
Thank you so much, this means a lot to me!
Fantastic information. I have the Olympus E-M1.3 which can do the same, albeit more slowly. I look forward to trying this for my landscape work. Many thanks, Thomas.
You should definitely do that - the results should indeed be pretty similar!
Let me know how it worked out for you, Andrew! Thanks for the comment!
I hadn't considered using HHHR for portraits, but I do use it for wildlife. Great video, thanks for the tips!
Isn't it incredible? I mean, it is even harder to tell wildlife to remain still! It really is a great feature of the OM-1, makes it much more capable!
Thanks for sharing!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography I've had a lot of luck photographing perched owls with HHHR, since they're very still! Had perfectly sharp results with shutter speeds as low as 1/125s using the 300mm F4 Pro.
Wow, that is amazing!
Thomas, I am hoping you can shed some light on the correct settings for image stabilization on the 100-400mm lens. I have been given several conflicting versions from multiple sources - the first is that I should set the lens IS switch to "ON" and the internal menu setting Menu 1/8, "Lens IS Priority to "ON". I have also been told the opposite - Turn off the lens IS switch, and set "Lens IS Priority" to "ON". One source said it was distance dependent, and that for longer range shots at 400mm I should use the lens IS and Lens IS Priority "ON" settings. Since I am hesitant to spend the $7500 to upgrade to the 15-400 lens, I need to wring the best results out of my existing lens:). BTW, I have taken numerous shots with these settings, and while I think I can see a preference for the second combination in close (10 Meter subject distance), I cannot see any consistent difference in field conditions, usually shooting birds at 10 - 60 Meters distance.
I've posted my answer under your newer comment 🙂
Hi Thomas and thank you for your guidance within OM Systems. Can you explain a little more about how the high resolution mode works when the image is taken, how moving subjects work and can you move the camera while the image is being processed.
Most welcome! Very interesting question but unfortunately, that is a bit complex so I cannot explain it here with a simple comment, but if you join the channel, you can bring this up during one of the upcoming members only Livestreams! Best, Thomas
Another outstanding episode!
Thank you very much, very kind of you!
Really useful! I wasn't aware of the desirability of turning off the lens IS, and so plan to try that. Also, I didn't understand the use-case differences between tripod and handheld mode, or that handheld mode works fine, albeit differently, on a tripod. As usual, the manual isn't very helpful. Thanks for putting this info out there.
Great to hear, Barry! And I agree, the manual is not detailed enough for the demanding user!
Another excellent tutorial - thank you.
Thank you very much David!
Thank you for your video. I have now fully understand the High Res program. Just one question> What about the delays that can be programmed into the High Res shots. Some are talking about up to 4 seconds. You have not mentioned it at all.
Great to hear!
The delays act as a self timer. If you set them, the camera will wait the set amount of time. I recommend using the self timer instead. You can change it without going into the menu!
Thomas - minor error in my previous comment/request. Should read : Thomas, I am hoping you can shed some light on the correct settings for image stabilization on the 100-400mm lens. I have been given several conflicting versions from multiple sources - the first is that I should set the lens IS switch to "ON" and the internal menu setting Menu 1/8, "Lens IS Priority to "ON". I have also been told the opposite - Turn off the lens IS switch, and set "Lens IS Priority" to "OFF". One source said it was distance dependent, and that for longer range shots at 400mm I should use the lens IS switch "ON" and Lens IS Priority "OFF" settings. Since I am hesitant to spend the $7500 to upgrade to the 15-400 lens, I need to wring the best results out of my existing lens:). BTW, I have taken numerous shots with these settings, and while I think I can see a preference for the second combination in close (10 Meter subject distance), I cannot see any consistent difference in field conditions, usually shooting birds at 10 - 60 Meters distance.
Hello Richard!
Thankfully, the answer is pretty simple. If the mounted lens has an IS switch, the setting of the switch will always overrule the menu setting. My recommendation for the lens you are using is to turn the Lens IS on - it will do a better job than the IBIS as the focal length is so long. Also keep the shutter speeds as fast as possible - even though the lens has an excellent stabilizer, you can really improve the results by doing so. Let me know if this was helpful!
You can use handheld high res mode on a tripod to get a quasi star tracker if your picture is mostly the sky. The camera will inadvertently correct for the earth rotation in body in long exposure
That is very interesting! I will try that, thanks for sharing!
Thank you very much for posting this interesting observation. I don't own an OM-1 or another Olympus camera but I am considering to buy it. It will VERY important to know if you have tried which is the maximum amount of time that this effect of star tracking is achieved. Thanks again.
@@TheLluison I have not personally tried, sorry. Just heard others do it
Thanks Matt anyway. I hope someone could tell us more on that. My guess is that this effect should last only by very few seconds as much. Otherwise would be a way to track stars that OM would have given more relevance to promote OM-1 camera.
Thanks!
Thank you very much for your kind support!
Another excellent video; thank you very much. This is a very good, in depth treatment of the high res mode of the OM-1. You mention that the RAW file will always be saved at maximum resolution - is this 80MP?
After watching your videos, I am more impressed by the capabilities of the OM-1 and am seriously thinking about buying one.
Hey Alex!
Many thanks for the feedback!
Yes, 80 MP if you use tripod mode and 50 MP if you use the handheld mode.
The OM-1 is an amazing camera and for sure my best purchase decision in a long long time. I can wholeheartedly recommend it, you won't regret getting one.
Let me know if you got one, would be nice to know!
Thank you again, I use hi res all the time for landscape and macro, the hand held mode is so practical... I absolutelly love it, it's great for night city photography. Another gem is hdr for crazy dynamic range and noise free images. I also use it all the time for landscape photography
Thank you very much for sharing that and your kind words!
I would really like to hear about your experiences with the HDR modes - which are you using - and are you shooting RAW or JPEG with them?
Most of the time I use the hand held 50Mp hires mode and always save jpeg+raw. I have used it for composite panoramas and absolutely love the result I get with it. I came from the em1 mkii and being able to use this mode while hand holding the camera is great!
For "in studio like conditions macro photography" these modes also work very well, I had no idea that one could use a flash with the tripod hires mode, I've been using LED lights, I have to experiment with it a bit.
Again, thank you for your videos there is always something to learn from them!
Hi Thomas, excellent video that I really enjoyed watching. I have used the hi-res modes on my G9 and now on my OM-1, and the one thing I struggle to undersyand is why people believe you would require a lens that could resolve 50 or 80 mega pixles. Each of the individual shots that are used to generate the composite hi-res image are only 20MP, so this would surely be all the lens would need to resolve. Perhaps you have a different view on this?
Hey Paul - great to hear!
The truth is in the middle and the answer is not as straightforward.
You are right, each individual shot is only 20 MP, the thing is that the sensor is moved around in tripod mode, so if the lens would not be able to resolve more than 20 MP, the benefit would be there but not as big - it is very similar to diffraction (th-cam.com/video/NAMxTN3vzRA/w-d-xo.html) and the airy disk.
In any case, even a kit lens does give you better IQ with high res than without it.
Does the lens really have to resolve 50 MP - I'd say no. But the better the lens, the better the High Res result!
Hi Thomas, I am new to Olympus and OM1 so your videos are a huge help. I like focus stacking flowers. Can I use high res tripod mode at the same time please, obviously when there is no movement
Hey Deborah & welcome to the OM System as well as to my channel!
Unfortunately, you can only use one or the other at the same time.
The good news: focus stacking also drastically increases fidelity, although it does not increase the resolution. So you will end up with high quality 20MP files that are suitable for very large prints!
Danke!
Danke für die Unterstützung - thank you very much for your support!
Do you recommend using OM workspace for the raw conversion of high res shots or is Lightroom for example usable too? I've heard the latter brings out far less details unless aggressive sharpening is applied.
Interested in your thoughts on the matter.
On a side note, I hope your cat is feeling better!
I really recommend using OM Workspace for processing Olympus files in general. In a future video, I will share my workflow that I use for all pro and free shoots.
I currently do not have Lightroom, so I cannot really say anything about it.
Here is the short workflow recommendation: process the file in Workspace (picture mode, exposure, white balance, and like), export a tiff or jpeg. Then crop, and fine tune in affinity photo / photo shop / similar.
The cat is back on her paws 🐾, thankfully! Many thanks for asking
@@ThomasEisl.Photography thanks for the info!
Good to hear the cat is recovering! ☺️
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Yes!! That would be absolutley brilliant, I cannot wait for that video.❤❤
Will do it ASAP!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography 👍👍👍
Great video, thanks. I do have one concern though. Yes, lens quality is perhaps the most important thing in any camera system, but I'm not sure optical performance is any more critical with these HR modes. Reason being, that any single image making up the composite is no more than the base resolution (or 20 MP). So there is no additional demand on optical performance than for a regular image. This may be yet one more advantage for HR pixel shift camera modes. You can get higher resolution without needing upgraded glass compared to a system that upgrades resolution through an increase in base number of photo sites on the sensor.
I know exactly what you mean - and I've been pondering about that as well. Here are my thoughts:
For tripod high-res mode: If the camera really does not move (and it should not) the lens has a maximum resolving power limit. For example, it will project 1.000 separate hairs of the subject. If I put a high res sensor behind the lens or move a low res sensor around, the lens will still only depict 1.000 separate hairs. This is rather theoretical, but nonetheless, it should be valid. It is what I like to phrase as "the lens resolves - the sensor records".
If we look at handheld mode, things might be a bit different, as the camera is calculating a higher resolution image based on camera movement. And if the lens moves and we take a picture at each step, we can end up exceeding the total resolving power of the lens - at least potentially. We are on the same page here!
So here is the big question: should we really worry about the maximum resolving power - I'd say no, because in practice, the MFT lenses are so good that they deliver for the high res modes as well.
Thanks for bringing this up, it is a very relevant and interesting point to discuss - Would love to hear back from you!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Thanks for the thoughtful reply. You have an interesting perspective on the subject I'll need to think more about. I guess I still see it as the lines per mm requirement for the lens is the same since each individual image in the composite is still the native sensor resolution. The composite itself is just a mathematical computation not relying on additional lens quality. For sure most all the fantastic Olympus /OM optics are more than up to the task. Here's a potential experiment for a future video..... Run both HR options with a quality lens pointed at a test chart, then run again with a skylight filter (or even clear glass) effectively reducing optical quality. Then compare all the results. It's likely even more degraded glass than a filter would be required such that you might observe no additional resolution with HR compared to base (if that's what's going on). Maybe a filter with thin film of grease?!? Would be a bit of an undertaking and would be essential to keep all exposure parameters equal so as to not skew results. The test itself would not absolutely give an answer (very subjective), but may be interesting none the less. Appreciate your time.
Thanks for your thoughtful reply and your time as well! Very interesting idea regarding the test, I will definitely try this!
I shoot astrophotography and have wondered if some of the resolving capabilities of lenses and sensors are just beyond the limits imposed in a single exposure due to sampling and statistical variations inherent in the digital image sensor’s design. By taking 8 or 12 samples and compositing them we can interpolate a higher resolution beyond the limits of the existing sensor. Maybe not to the limits of an actual 50 or 80 MP sensor, but to the human eye, noticeably better. In deep space photography we have to rely on these techniques in photography for decades. We call this “drizzle”. Stacking and slight shifting at sub pixel levels helps overcome the problems that limit resolution of any particular imaging system.
It is interesting that iso200 is limiting some resolving ability that iso80 with pixel shifting can overcome. Also we have to try and guess as to how the stacked sensor in the OM-1 may sample differently than previous sensors such that the results of high res mode might be more favorably affected. But I don’t know for a fact if it matters. I’m just savvy enough about the physics to note that the sampling of photons over time is an important factor. But so is heat and the sensor readout accuracy. In some metaphorical sense, a digital camera is using a shotgun approach in reverse. The sensor os the target and the photons bouncing off things in front of it leave their marks. The more the better.
More to the point P WX makes, I have in the past, before pixel shifting in cameras was possible, taken a series of eight images and offset them 1/2 pixel in each direction at 45 degree increments in PS to apply a mean averaging in order to create similarly better detailed images. This was done years ago mainly for lunar and planetary photography. I learned the technique from a well known astronomer.
Have you tried high res + digital zoom? A nice way to bring your subject closer with acceptable quality.
I have not, but I definitely will - this is a great idea indeed!
Thanks
Thank you very much for your support!
Thanks for this Thomas. I was confused when the IBIS read "auto" with my sync IS lens on, but you cleared up my confusion. In this case, when HH high res in on and lens stabe is on, IBIS "auto" is actually automatically "off". This was really confusing me. I assumed that "auto" was a mode of IS on.
Yes, it took a trick to find out what the camera was actually doing! Great that you appreciate the video!
Excellent video Thomas, thanks! What I do not understand is why handheld high-res works on a tripod… you would need some micro-movements for the method to work. A perfectly still camera will defeat the purpose, no?
Thank you very much!
I agree, it sounds like it should not work, but here is the thing - the minimal noise differences and the in-sensor IS generate enough "variance" between the frames for the mode to work. Side by side tests I've done showed that even with everything perfectly still, the image quality greatly improved! So I'm as surprised as you are haha.
@@ThomasEisl.Photography it is very interesting! Thanks for your research.
Another option instead of the olympus wireless remote trigger is the olympus app for your phone.
Yes, great tip!
Thank you for this video. Really helpful. One question: what software do you prefer, when handling highres files? I am using Capture One. Is OM Workspace any better?
Great to hear!
I have not tested capture one for that, but in general I recommend Workspace for OM files and then working with a second program like affinity photo for cropping and fine tuning.
I'll share a video about this workflow soon!
This video is the best video explanation yet on this feature. I cannot myself leverage hand-held highres mode on my E-M1III with good results, the images come out with more pixels - but not more details when zoomed in - it looks fuzzy. It might be me. I think for me I will have to try with tripod mode.
Many thanks for the feedback!
Your results - that's rather strange, it should not be like that. Could it be that you are processing the RAW files in programs other than Workspace?
@@ThomasEisl.Photography I'll take another set of comparison images to check in Workspace again - and compare against how it looks in Camera RAW/Lr.
@@ThomasEisl.Photographyso, I’ve had the chance to retry with my E-M1III using a tripod and the 80MP mode - and managed to get an impressive result at 100mm, f5.6 with the 12-100. I’ve found that the key step is to do the raw processing in Workspace like you described and set the sharpening in Workspace to maximum value. Any slight vibration in the setup results in bad results, I took four high res shots on tripod, out of the four identical shots one was noticeably fuzzy, one was somewhat less detailed compared to the other two shots out of the four.
I will try more handheld shots at 50MP and see what I can get.
I'm glad you mentioned digitising film. It's primarily what I use High Res for, with the EM-1ii. 40MP is plenty for 35mmm negs, especially when it's mostly HP5 pushed two stops. The 80MP will be great once I get around shooting some more 120 film with my Mamiya 645 as it has the 4:3 ratio. One thing I have noticed though is doesn't show the film grain as clearly as it did when using my Canon 6D. I need to do some more tests when I get the chance.
Thanks for sharing that Chris! One reason for less film grain can be micro vibrations - I had that as well. The high res tripod mode is very delicate in that regard!
Outstanding summary Thomas; which lenses are you using for the high resolution shots?
I really like the Leica 25, 42.5 and the OM Pro lenses as well as the 75mm Zuiko for High Res.
Even the 14-42 can be used, but of course the results will be held back a little.
Thank you for your kind words!
Fantastic video as always! Quick question: what is the longest shutter speed possible when using high res mode? I believe in the Panasonics it is 1 second. Can the OM1 shoot longer? Thanks.
Many thanks!
The OM-1 can utilize shutter speeds of up to 60 seconds with High Res Shot.
So, in handheld mode, the body's IS-Auto can "cooperate" with an OMD lens that has in-lens stabilization. Do you happen know what would be the behaviour with another lens, for example, 100-400 Panasonic lens with OIS. If the lens OIS is kept on, is there a possibility that the OIS and handheld hi-rez mode will interfere with each other?
Very helpful. But I was confused by your comments about highlights being clipped for +3 EV at ISO 200. Does this mean that you shouldn't use high res mode where there are extreme highlights? What is the best way to handle them while still taking a high res shot?
Hey Steve!
Thanks for the feedback. To answer your question: This means that if you set the exposure for a scene and use the spot metering function to check, no part should be over +3 EV, as it will be solid white then. In standard mode, you have about one stop more latitude.
I've got a separate video up, illustrating that in more detail:
th-cam.com/video/rYRa9zLOgXs/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helped!
Thank you, Thomas, for the very informative series on OM System cameras.
I have a question. Is it possible to do high-res tripod mount photos and focus bracketing/stacking simultaneously? This would be incredibly useful for landscape photography.
Most welcome!
You can do that, but you have to focus bracket manually and compose in post
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Thank you for replying so quickly. This would make a good guide for one of your upcoming videos.
I'll look into that! Many thanks!
I was very interested in your statement that with the tripod high-res mode an ISO of 80 was best. Everything I have read about general shooting with the OM-1 indicates that staying with ISO 200 is best, and lower ISO values reduce dynamic range and only need to be used when you need to reduce sensitivity in very bright targets. What makes the Tripod high-res mode?
I completely agree and I also advise using ISO 200 for the best overall IQ (resolution, noise, dynamic range and so on).
My testing revealed, however, that in tripod high res mode ISO 80 will give you the best detail resolution - it is understandable from a mathematical-technical standpoint I'd say. However, the dynamic range will be limited further down to +2.3 EV in the highlights. I even try to keep the highlights at +2 EV to be on the extra safe side.
So we are on the same page here - ISO 80 is only for very special cases, but I wanted to mention it for a complete picture.
See more details:
www.thomaseisl.photography/technique/om-system-om-1-high-res-shot
Thank you for another insightful video. I was thinking of using the hi res mode with a monopod to capture waterfalls. Will this be possible?
Thank you very much for your generous support, Michael!
Yes, this will be possible - with Handheld High Res and the Monopod, you should get good results!
Thomas,
I learn a lot from all your videos. I’m still skeptical, however, about this high resolution photography with the OM-1. When I do some serious pixel peeping between a standard 20mp shot with a 80mp tripod shot I see no difference! Seems to me it should be up to four times better. I’m shooting with my 12-40 f2.8 pro lens and being very careful about all the stuff you discussed. Only thing I didn’t do was use ISO 80 for the high res tripod shot. Can you tell me why I can’t see a noticeable improvement?
Hello William!
Many thanks for the feedback and your question. There are several possibilities why you are experiencing almost no difference:
1) Miniscule camera shake and similar variables can eliminate additional Detail easily (also subject movement, of course).
2) Varying focusing accuracy.
3) Lens limitations.
4) While 80 MP is four times the resolution, this does not mean 4 times the resolution - as we are talking about a rectangular surface. So depending on the subject, it might be very hard to spot the additional details.
5) magnification bias - you have to magnify both images to the same degree to compare them.
6) Image Processing - Hi Res Shot images need a certain level of post processing to reveal all details - unless you use OM Workspace, which will give optimized results right out of the box.
Long story short, I can assure you there is a quantifiable & measurable différence. In the future, I might provide a precise MTF-calculation and publish LP/PH values.
Hope this helps!
Just wondering Thomas, do you know if Godox AD300 and 400s are compatible with the OM1s high res shot? Really loving all the features of this camera and the fact that it can sync to 1/100 when performing these shots actually makes them usable, unlike Sony, Fuji, Nikon or Canon since that wouldn’t allow much ambient light. The others all let in the ambient unless you stack ND filters.
It is definitely compatible with manual flash settings & wait time set in the OM!
Hallo, wieder sehr gut gemacht! Eine dumme Frage: Stehen all diese Informationen eigentlich im Handbuch? Ich hab`das Teil noch nie, auch nicht im Ansatz, gelesen.
Hallo Richard - und vielen herzlichen Dank!
Tatsächlich stehen nur die technischen Eckdaten und der Hinweis auf die Lichtquellen im Handbuch.
For the handheld high res mode is the shortest possible duration 12 shots/120 fps or 1/10 sec or is a higher frame rate available in this mode?
Unfortunately, there is no official public document that discloses that.
Be that as it may, it seems that the composite process itself is also able to compensate for a certain amount of frame-to-frame movements.
Therefore, my practical guideline is nonetheless the mentioned 1/60, as this is according to my experiences a "practical" value.
Another question: Do you think the same idea is usable on the OM5? I know high res works a little different there but in theory it should also give similar results right?
Might need a little higher shutter speed to compensate for the fact it shoots more images during the process if I recall correctly, say 1/150th instead of 1/100th maybe...🤔
Hey Arian! It took me a while, but now I have the answer:
The OM-5 has a sensor readout speed of around 1/50. Therefore, increasing the shutter speed will most likely not decrease the total exposure time beyond a certain limit. However, it will decrease the potential motion blur in each frame helping the composition algorithm.
I´ve tried HHHRes portraits with a pre-production M1X back in the day and it also worked. Long story short: The OM-5 will also work, even though it is a bit slower than the OM-1.
Best wishes! 📸
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Thanks for coming back to me! I love how much you interact with everyone in the comments!
I had the chance to try this out this weekend for myself on the OM-5 and my conclusion is that for most candid shots of people it will not work. I suspect that is because of the readout speed as you mention. There is just too much movement and it results in artefacts unfortunately. Luckily however, if you try it and it fails you still get the 20mp version as well and it is unaffected. So nothing lost except a bit of waiting time.
For portraits where you can ask someone to hold still for a moment this is still absolutely viable I agree!
The OM-1 is a big improvement in this regards it seems.
Most welcome - thanks for sharing that!
It is important to note that even with the OM-1, it does not work without artifacts if the people do not hold still enough. But yes, as you've said, the 1 is a quite a bit faster.
Thanks again for sharing that, this is invaluable input!
So, for macro, what works better? Stacking/bracketing or hi-res . They all seem fairly similar results but less post work in hi-res
I'd recommend stacking/bracketing if it is about DoF. If you need high res and dof, then go for high res + manual focus bracketing. That's not easy to do, but the results are very impressive.
ISO 80! I’ve never used anything less than 200.
I'm puzzled too by the results indicating a better performance for tripod high res shot on iso 80 vs 200. Can't imagine any reason why anything should give better results than sensors native iso.
However results >imagination 🤷♂️
Here is the thing:
ISO 200 should be used for 99% of all situations, especially when non-high res is used.
In high res, by using ISO 80 you get a bit more details due to the way the image is generated and the way the raw file is exposed, but you also get significantly less dynamic range - even less than when using high res at ISO 200 which gives you less DR in the highlights than regular capture.
So to conclude: in tripod mode, ISO 200 for best overall IQ, ISO 80 for best resolving power
Hi Thomas ! For portraiture you'll prefer a 1/200s 6400 ISO HighRes Shot than a classical 20MP 1/50s 1600 ISO shot in terms of image quality ? 🤔Thanks !
Hi Enzo!
In terms of image quality, the High Res variant will yield better results. However, I would go with the "classic" in 80% of the cases, as sometimes models don't remain sufficiently still. If they don't, there is always the backup, but of course this is then captured at 6.400. I'd suggest trying both variants to see what you prefer.
Best, Thomas
I am considering switching to the OM-1 from a Nikon D750, including buying OM lenses. I am a landscape photographer. My question is this. In the field I take both handheld and tripod shots. With the OM-1 I would turn on IS on both the lens and the body. What if I forget to turn them off when I put the camera on a tripod?. You said it is not recommended to do that, but what happens if you do. How does that affect normal (non-hi res) shots and hi-res shots? By the way, I like your understated, calm, measured way of speaking.
Hey Colin!
So here is the thing: for regular photography, even if you leave the stabilizer on with the camera on the tripod, you probably won't run into any issues. I never did. Theoretically, the system could introduce very slight blur if the camera is completely still. But that is very theoretical.
For handheld / tripod, the camera automatically adjust the settings. You can only decide whether to use the lens IS or the in body IS when using HHHRes as I described in the video. So once you got the OM-1, you will see that it is pretty straightforward. Hope this helped, keep me posted regarding your decision!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography I have been torn in opposite directions with respect to a camera change. On the one hand, I considered Fuji Medium format because I love the idea of a large print with incredible detail. On the other hand, I like the small size and weight of MFT. What decided me is my iphone 14 Pro. The quality of the raw images is outstanding; in fact many of my best portfolio shots are taken with the phone. Given that, the reduced resolution of the MFT format should not be a problem; it will be better than the resolution of my iphone. And, if I want something approaching a medium format, I can use the Hi-Res option of the OM-1, subject to the constraints you highlighted in your very helpful video. (I subscribed by the way.)
For sure a good decision - the two key aspects of MFT are that is both small enough to accompany you everywhere and good enough to get every job done.
I'm sure you'll be satisfied!
Thanks for subscribing!
Hi! Can you use High Res shots using old analog lenses from Zuiko or else?
Yes, you can use any lens and high res shot. Just set the correct focal length for the image stabilization.
I always thought high-res was just JPG, would prefer just one high res raw image.
I need to try this on my super telephoto lens, right now
You should! The results will blow you away 👍
@@ThomasEisl.Photography handheld super telephoto is almost impossible, but that was f9 and 1/100
The high res raw has much less noise, much better than the jpg
The raw high res seems to be always 80 or 50 depending on the mode
Yes, that is correct! A bit of support should help to get the shot!
Thomas..would you use this camera for interior architectural/real estate type photos or product shots or would dslr or full frame better suited? I feel that having the om1 would reduce post processing correction considerably??
Thank you very much for asking - I would definitely recommend the OM-1 for these genres - especially as it has some other very relevant tricks: Like Live Composite. I plan on doing a video on that and share how it can be used for interior photography to great effect.
Additional features like the in-camera perspective control and very good image processing definitely help cutting down the post processing time, in my oppinion.
Personally, I really like DSLRs, but in terms of productivity & practicability, the OM-1 has a lot to offer - and on top of that, M43 is the most compact professional camera system on the market. So really, it makes work easy in many ways.
@@ThomasEisl.Photography please advise lenses for interior that heed less distortion ..pity they dont have a tilt-shift, but guess that post work one can rectify accordingly. Lenses will be key to interior work Im sure super fast needed aswell as for low light night work. Thinking 17mm 2.8 or lower primes, but i seem to always lean towards faster zooms mostly for creative stealth shots and capturing special moments from a distance…
Hi Thomas
Top video !
How about the use of the possibility for 25 mp high res.
Is there a specific use for that that you can recommend ?
Ton
Thank you very much Ton!
I have to admit that I rarely use the 25 MP mode - one use case would be if you want to do the filmic portraits at ultra-high ISO and you just want the look but not the resolution.
Apart from that , even the 25 MP images are sharper and crisper than the regular 20 MP files - so if you do not need the resolution but want the "crispiness", it is a viable option.
Thanks Thomas, I will try this out.
Ton
Cool!
hello Thomas, why ISO 80 for tripod HRS?
I'm sorry, I don't quite understand. Could you please elaborate?