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AND...It looks like you actually reply to most if not all comments! "Sinä teit fantastista työtä."

You are easily the best presenter of difficult info on TH-cam! Most talk WAY to fast or skip over very much needed information to complete the picture. I just bought a very inexpensive 400mm mirror lens with a Minolta MD to MFT adapter for well under $100 just to play with and see what this MFT adapter party is all about. Thanks again!

Danke Herr Eisl für Ihre differenzierten, sachlichen und fachlich hochkompetenten Analysen zu Olympus / OM-Produkten! Hab erst vor Weihnachten sehr günstig eine OM-1 I gekauft und mich inzwischen vom "ersten Komplexitäts-Schock" erholt (zuvor EOS 650D), nachdem ich eine Reihe brauchbarer online-Videos entdeckt habe, die das rund 400-seitige, "sterile" OM1-Benutzerhandbuch erst Verstehen helfen (das "Begreifen" wird dann schon noch mit der Praxis kommen 🙂). Nun bin ich kürzlich auf Ihren Kanal gestoßen und bin happy (s. 1. Satz)! Darf ich kurz Folgendes fragen: Hauptmotive für meinen Wechsel zu OM / MFT waren a) künftig "weniger Gewicht" bei der Wildtierfotografie (v.a. Vögel) und b) endlich mal eine leistbare Festbrennweite "kaufen können". Ihr Beitrag hat mich in meiner Entscheidung bestärkt - das 300mm / 4.0 Pro wird in den kommenden Tagen angeschafft. Aufgrund günstiger Angebote habe ich gleich beide MC´s gekauft, frag mich aber erst jetzt, ob das sinnvoll war - haben Sie einen Tipp, eine Meinung dazu, ob es Sinn macht, beide einzusetzen? Da beide (MC14 und MC20) noch unbenutzt sind und auch das Widerrufsrecht noch besteht, könnte ich meine "Euphorie" noch um einen MC "korrigieren" 🙂 Beste Grüße!

You confirmed me to invest to the TG-7, even while I own the Olympus OM-5 and the 30 mm macro. Both have their uses, but the TG-7 is just so freaking easy to get superb results, when you spot something. And for casual shots the TG-7 sits in my pocket all the time - set to the "Instant film" ART filter. Wauuu. Thx for your superb content.

Nice review! Would my legacy lenses Olympus 12-60 2.8 and Sigma 150 2.8 (that I use occasionally) focus faster on the PDAF-enabled OM-5?

Excellent and thorough review, so helpful! I do have a question for you though regarding if you WERE to use the lens on a tripod or monopod - I get that the handhold-ability of this lens is amazing, especially when paired with the om1 Mark 1 or II. But in your opinion would you get even sharper images with the use of either a monopod or a tripod? And if so, which combination of lens and/or body IS would you suggest? Thanks.

Thanks a ton. I'm a long time street photographer but very new to this camera. I needed something for snow and rain shooting. These tips are great. Hope you do more.

Fabulous in-depth comparison! Most thourough and without all the baloney. Just what i needed, thank you 🎉

Fantastic video! I just bought this camera and can't wait to use it for some upcoming trips. I did have one question from your video: What is the cable protector mounted to the camera at 52.26? I have never seen one of these and would love to get one.

very nice option, but im my opinion only if you cannot use a PC because i think to be able to edit about 100 pics on PC in the same time of 10 pic on Camera :)

339 / 5.000 I recently came across this video and found it very helpful, thank you. I like to shoot in black and white and have my EVF set to monochrome but as soon as I activate HDR the camera's EVF is set to color. Maybe I'm missing some background photography knowledge but is there a (technical) reason for this?

Good day, Thomas. It's a good video with good information. I do have one quibble with you on the number of stops per image needed for creating an HDR image. You state at the 12-minute mark the need to take images at one-stop increments to make an HDR image with the older cameras. This is not true. Even with the older cameras, only three images (-2, 0, +2) were sufficient (not five). And this was if you were shooting JPG or raw. As you know, an 8-bit image, such as a JPG, has about 7-8 stops (depending on the signal-to-noise ratio, but that's getting away from the point). Around 2012, I was getting annoyed with folks showing their ghastly, over-saturated HDR images and bragging about how they shot every third stop or half stop. So, I did an experiment. I set up my camera on a tripod, and I shot from -2 - +2 at every half-stop. This gave me nine images that I saved as JPG images. I then processed them in Photomatix (the best HDR Tone-Mapping software at the time) and processed them all with no adjustments. I did -2, -1.5, -1, .-5, 0, .5, 1, 1.5, 2. Then I did -2, -1, 0, 1, 2. Finally, I processed -2, 0, 2. The result was that there was absolutely no difference between any of the resultant photos. But, as you stated, the newer cameras do have more dynamic range, and because of that (and Chan from Adobe (their raw image master)) states that all you really need is the -2 and +2 shots, as that provides more than enough overlap. I have confirmed this, but I still mostly take all three shots because I usually hand-hold my camera. If the +2 shot is blurry due to camera movement, I can always fall back on the 0 shot. Nonetheless, I am always glad for things to be tested before being convinced of something, and I thank you for your observations.

Thomas, Ive watched this several times, but oohhh....that breakfast. Nice!!

I have moved from the EM1 iii to the OM1 ii. On the EM, I moved my focus point using up/down/left/right on the wheel. On the OM, it seems I can’t use the wheel until I first use the joystick, which I don’t like. How can I move this function to the wheel only? Thank you in advance.

Coming from the software dev industry, I don’t understand why camera companies don’t turn their business model to paid upgrades. Some do, with additional video features like ARRI or ProRes support for Lumix cameras, but upgrades, if any, are mostly for free. In the software industry, paid upgrades are quite common and accepted. Or, they implement subscription models. The result of free upgrades is that on the longer run, companies tend to only fix apparent bugs (updates) and not add features (upgrades). Even the former ‘King of Kaizen’, Fujifilm is downscaling upgrades. Their CEO actually acknowleged that it’s not profitable to run this model on the longer term.

Can you overlay an 3 images of 14bit hi res shot with different exposure?

Great video. And concise presentation of the feature. Sadly the OM-1 appears to have re-introduced a bug that makes it impossible to use HR with a third party off-camera flash. The camera takes 8 pictures and triggers the flash each time. You can even see the individual pictures on the LCD. But in the end it does not composite the pictures and doesn’t save anything to the SD card and doesn’t show an error message. This bug had been fixed in the M1 Mark II once before, but there is no fix on the roadmap for the OM-1. I don’t know about the OM-1 MK2 but I don’t thing they would have withheld a fix from the MK1. Anyways this is quiet disappointing, since I have a great Godox strobe setup which wasn’t cheap, and cannot be replicated with first party flash units. And I cannot use HR with that setup. This is the first and only thing that disappoints me about a camera that otherwise is my favorite in terms of features and handling.

I was wondering if it was possible to adjust the shutter speed and this video helped me to set it. Thank you very much.

danke thomas

Thanks

I just bought om1 mark 2 this week..i want to know if there are changes with the new mark 2? What do you suggest about noise filter keep it of? Low or high?

As always, excellent analysis, Thomas! Question about teleconverters... In the M.Zuiko world is there a reason to avoid using either the 1.4x or 2.0 teleconverters with the lenses you suggested? I ask because I've been shooting Canon RF lenses, and the Canon 2x teleconverter does not perform nearly as well as the Canon 1.4x. I'm wondering if this is a Canon-specific issue or if it pertains to other TC's as well. Thank you!

Brilliant way of explanation, Thomas. Really thank you for this.

Brilliant and very clear explanation: thank you Thomas.

Damn! Very impressive technology and you've done a fabulous job sharing it in the most simple yet detailed terms!

Wow! This is an awesome video. I had an OM 1 mark ii for a while last year. I sold it to move to another system. That was a mistake. That said, failure is nothing more than the opportunity to start over with a better education. Just today I purchased another OM 1 mark ii I’m determined to master this camera. Thanks for an inspirational video.

11:38 I agree with this rule of thumb tip here but most lensmakers across different sensor form factor mismatch the aperture relation as per the crop factor of given sensor type. For example f/1.8 on a 1/1.7" inch smartphone sensor will be equivalent to f/10 aperture of full frame, which is much lower than f/3 limit where diffraction effect starts to hit on that form factor. So lens oem will have to design a f/0.5 lens for a smartphone to hit the f/3.1 equivalent aperture (f/1.4 is the biggest aperture on any phone in 2024)

Excellent video. Thanks

I just bought one today. I am new to photography and am just using old used gear. I had no idea how good of a find this was at my local camera shop.

it surprises me that the Olympus engineers could not know that to bild a battery inside the same camera will affect the hardware, I wonder why they did not come with the idea that you are talking about in using the grip instead of the compartiment battery of the same camera! Really, I can't understand these engineers from Olympus!

Is there a way to limit the area of the frame where the AF should look for a face? For example if my subject is ina room full of people, most of them at the same distance. But my subject is at the left of the frame. Can I specify an area at the left of the frame so the camera only search for a face in that area and ignores the rest of the frame?

I bought recently a 17mm f1.2 used, great lens, but I didn't use it much. This video was a true revelation for me and the capabilities of this lens with OM1. Thanks Thomas, another great video. 👍👍👍👍

Your Channel kicks Ass, Thanks :D

I am here to report that once again, Thomas is absolutely correct in his analysis. Using his recommendations from this video, I took a 1200 ISO photo with my OM1 and completed basic RAW adjustments with Workspace (Mac) and the same on Lightroom. The resulting difference was glaringly obvious: Workspace produced the same image with less noise, more detail and better color - not to mention at the cheapest possible price! It’s just a pity it runs so slowly. Regardless, I will drop Lightroom and practice patience instead as the differences are so plain.

This short is worth a full video, especially for those (like me) who bought this camera based on your review but are unfamiliar with this camera.

Superb review 👍

hi Thomas when you mentioned the om is not favorable to ETTR. I wonder why because you are capturing more data with the sensor before clipping the image and can those obtain the greatest flexibility when it comes to raw editing? Why does the OM system only prefer exposures within +-2EV? cheers great video

Honestly love this video! I was deciding to get a Sony full frame or a OM camera for macro photography. I was like "more megapixels on a full frame" butttttt a micro 4/3 would be better for macro just not the best in low light. This video honestly helped alot! Thank you!

While I am quite enjoying the OM-1 camera? This trip would call for my trusty, old PEN-F (2016) and pancake lens. The heavier OM-1 would probably stay home, since I tend to pack very light. The OM-1 is smaller and light for a high profile mirrorless SLR/ MSLR, but the PEN is tiny and I usually don't need more than the 14-42 pancake. Till this day? It also takes an amazing photograph, where speed isn't a concern. My only disappointment? Slow HDR and no 4K/60 video mode.

Thanks!

You are doing amazing job at explaining things for OM-1 , thank you 🙏🏽

What an incredibly comprehensive review! If I weren’t so heavily committed to a Sony system, I would give this camera a go. Is it possible to use Sony E mount lenses on this camera? I have owned Olympus cameras in the past, including film cameras, and always loved them. Thank you for such a detailed and clearly communicated review.

Great review!

Good video, but I found it amusing that you recommended to turn off the shutter sound and yet used the same as a sound effect frequently during your video! 😂