Hi Scheib!!😀😀 If I were to cut that tree. I would put a bunch of logs under it to keep it off the ground. Then I would start from the top and work my way toward the butt. As you get closer and closer to the stump you will find out witch way the rootball wants to fall. If it wants to tip down the hill. Just stop cutting about 4 feet from it and it won't fall over. I wouldn't be one bit afraid of it. Take care and work safe!!😀😀 Logger Al
As a professional Specializing in Storm Damage timber, I would block it on the stump side as well as under the log you want to save. 99 percent of the time if there is any roots attached they will flop back in the hole. I have cut on a hand full of hill sides as well and have never had a stump tip over. If you do strap it, Make sure you get to the biggest tree you can and strap it low as possible. Strapping to another tree runs the risk of tipping that tree over on top of you if the root ball decides it want to go down hill. Take your time and read the stump, Cut slow and watch what the stump is doing. I always drive wedges from the top and let the bottom tear if needed. Don't cut it from the bottom, you will lose control of the stump. It appears that when they pushed it up with the loader it might have been moved a bit as well. Go after the easy stuff first, if its easy everyone would do it. If you were closer I certainly would come teach you and lend a hand. If you have other question let me know, and I will help you if I can. Good luck and stay safe.
Best advice ⬆️ Another commenter suggested cutting the stem starting on top and then switching to the bottom side…🤦🏻♂️ Although it might make for entertaining content, cutting from the top down would allow you to use wedges to better control your kerf in the rare chance that the root ball tips towards you and away from the hole. Also: The Firewood label on the bag helps guys like JOHIO Woodburner determine if it contains Onions or firewood!🧐 Bless’ns brother, Tedd
Keep it simple . All I would do is take some of the white oak closer to the road. cut them into lengths long enough to keep the tree supported. Use your maul to drive the supports in tight and you should be fine. And if you still feel uncomfortable with the root ball as you cut closer to it, just leave the last few feet. You said it’s rotten anyways. A PEICE OF CAKE. Good luck Scheib. Great job
Strap it, block it under the stump like you said and leave 8 feet or so of the stump that is blocked up so it doesn't tip over and cut your losses. Lots of wood there and not worth the risk of having the root mast falling on you. You may be able to use your truck in 4x4 with cable and snatch block later to pull the root mast and stump vertical again then fell the remaining 8 feet the stump you left.
Get the easier wood first. Then if you want that big girl, you could leave enough post of the trunk to keep it from coming your way. Pile a little wood under the trunk to hold the log up and get after it. I try to leave those big ones alone - sometimes the juice is not worth the squeeze, but there is a lot of wood to be harvested from it.
Just leave the last ten feet of the tree to be safe. Be sure to used lots of wedges as you cut that tree, I have use jacks to Jack trees to block them up to cut them
My non professional 200 miles away thought would be to prop it up in the middle as best you can and work it from the other end. At some point it may bind but some wedges in the cut usually keep it open enough to cut. It may also start getting light in which case the root ball will fall back in the hole for you. Definitely get the easy pickings from the log landing first as very few would be willing to tackle the big dog so it will still be there for a while.
Log under the trunk close to the root ball and cut down the trunk towards the root ball. It will show you where it wants to go as the trunk gets lighter. Bring wedges to keep the bar from getting pinched.
If I were doing that log, I believe I'd run a tow strap around the trunk close to the root ball. Then go up and over the root ball back to a solid tree and crank it really tight like you were trying to stand up your tree. That will keep you safe working under it's shadow. I'm always around if you want help. I work cheap, a few chunks of wood keeps me happy! 😁😁
I think the safe move is to cut it far enough from the stump that if it tips it can't get you. You can work your way closer to the root ball and judge the balance of it better with less tree attached. A couple saw kerfs to secure the strap/winch would be good for stabilizing it.
Yes i think thats the way i would go as well, its a bit far from England though😊 ps, Mr Scheib, stop smoking and drinking beer, you need all the fitness you can get for your job. Hope you don’t mind me saying so.
Hello Mr. Scheib, Run a rope or chain over the top of the root ball, and around the base of the trunk, use a come along to another stout tree, put several tons of force on the rope with the come along, and then cut the tree 5-6 feet from the base, have a friend keep on winching the whole time you cut slowly so he can keep up the pressure, it will flip and stand up some so you can cut off the stump, maybe a board on the ground with a bottle jack or automotive floor jack to add pressure then cut infront of the jack at a slight angle so that the saw does pinch the kerf will get wider as you cut deeper in the log.
I’m in agreement with logger Jason that every tree I’ve cut with roots attached ALWAYS the base/roots want to go back into their hole. They are always dangerous. Wear your safety gear and be safe out there.
I would put a log under it a couple feet from the root ball. Then cut about 10" down from top. Then start cutting up from the bottom slowly. See which way the root ball wants to go. It may want to return to the hole so keep your head back. Bring a second saw.
Scheib, I would first get the wood off of the log deck. As you said that is easy to get to and others are going to go for that first. Second take care of the pile of logs closest to the road. Save some of it there to put under the large tree. Now here is what I would do...Find a friend that has a tractor or a skid steer with a grappler attachment, because those large rounds are going to be real difficult to move and pick up by hand. When you get near the rootball use the tractor or skidsteer to push against the rootball and let it flip back over into the hole. I've done this several times with red and white oaks here in Virginia. This is not a job for one person you will need help. Look into renting the equipment if you don't have someone that has this type of equipment. I wish we were closer to each other I would bring my stuff to help because I love doing this type of wood recovery. Stay safe, be careful, wishing you well.
Put some wood under it close to the root ball to kept it off the ground but start cutting at the top of the tree and work your way back to the trunk. Bring a wedge with you just in case you get pinched. I dont think you will need to strap it.
Hey, brother. Perhaps consider climbing up on the trunk, putting your butt up against the root ball, and step off about perhaps 8'. And then make your 1st cut or last cut whichever way you wanna do it.2 things may happen. that 8' section that currently supports the root ball won't fall over but second if it does fall over then it won't interfere with all the rest of the cuts you want to make. Best of success. Chip
Good morning! That is quite the dilemma with that root ball. I think I would start with the easy stuff first that is by the road. Once you have that gone then I would start at the top of the tree(making sure that you block up the log so it cannot pinch your saw) and work my way to the butt. I would then strap the root ball and try to put some tension on it to see if you can get any more off the butt end. Good Luck and stay safe.
I had the exact same situation with a Norway Spruce. I threw a chain up over rootball and chained near bottom of tree. Then used a come-a-long to a tree near the backside of rootball. I then started bucking on the upper side of spruce (braced with rounds under tree) & cut towards rootball. When you get close to rootball; it will tell you what it WANTS to do. - adjust with come-along if necessary.
I’d put a few logs under it. Then go to about where you think it’s hills and bore cut it. Then I’d work from the end blocking it up. You’ll see what way the root ball wants to go. Thin you cut in the bore cut either top or bottom. Then release the other edge of bore cut and clip the trigger trying not to pinch your bar. Bring some wedges and an extra saw. Signed a non professional firewood cutter.
Seems like everyone else is chipping in a lot of good info scheib. Agreed tackle the easier pile that’s ready for the taking that big tree isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. If it were me I would work my way from top to rootball until that branch to keep everything off the ground. Buck most of the way through the rest with a wedge to see if it’s in tension or compression then go from there. So when you make your cut the majority of it is done at a comfortable height, saw is out of the dirt, and safely still intact
I’m not a professional logger but I am a hazard responder for the power company and do this quite a bit. Plus we do a lot of rigging. I work a swing shift and have Wednesday and Thursday off. I live by Ohio Wood Burner so if you want a hand let me know.
i would strap it to a tree with a come along like you talked about , block under it so it wouldn't get on the ground . then i would undercut it first but do the cut through from the top . most likely the root ball will fall back in the hole but the partial undercut should keep it from splitting and barber chairing and binding the saw . good luck and be safe
That's a lot of wood at the landing....I'd start with that. Easy pickings. The tree with the root ball....I'd start furthest away from the root ball and remove small lengths to see how it behaves as small amounts of weight come off. A strap with a come along winch may be appropriate as you work your way up the tree towards the ball.
Stick anything under that log you can. It’s too big to move once you start cutting. Your first cut should be as close to the root ball as you can get it. Start from the top, cut a third of the way through, then switch and cut from the bottom, to meet up. Hopefully as you get closer to the top cut it will open up for you and root ball will fall back into its original position in the ground. Hope some of this helps.
Scheib if that were my tree I would put a log perpendicular under the tree as close to the root ball as possible. I’d also make it so it barely fits that or snugly fits. Then put another log perpendicular under the tree a few ft up and make your cut in between those two logs. That way once you make your cut even of the root ball wants to fall your direction it’ll immediately drive on the first log you put down. And if the tension is on the upper part of the tree once it gets cut that will rest on the other log you put in. I would not try to ratchet the root ball the other way because that would only add more tension for it to spring one way or another. You don’t want any spring loaded/fast movements. If you make your cut and the root ball comes your way resting on the log you put there then ratchet it back down (once it’s disconnected from the tree) and let it fall back into place. I wouldn’t work around a trunk that had a root ball held up by a single log. Just my .02 not a pro
Strap around base of tree over top of root ball, put a bar behind strap closer to the top so it doesn't pull through the dirt. Probably help with a friend to tighten the strap as you cut. Definitely go after the easy pile first. No professional here, farm raised man thet had to go into public work, and I deal with really heavy stuff.
Tons of comments! I read many of them. I agree with working from the top down to the stump. That will reduce the weight and compression you are dealing with. Once you get to just a stem I would put limbs underneath like you said and release the root ball. I haven’t seen this suggestion but in cases like that, I like to bore cut the middle. 2 options from there. You can work down and leave a little at the bottom. If you do that I would try to get most of the wood on the far side. Then work your way up and leave a little on the top too. Then pull your saw out and then start to cut what you left from the top. The bottom should just tear out. I prefer doing this way bc with wedges it’s sometimes hard to know what the tree is telling you. Second option is do the bore cut and cut the whole bottom out. Then pull out your saw and like a foot up the tree so another bore cut and do the opposite and work your bar up. You will have a lot of control by releasing the log that way. That way is how they teach in PA Game of Logging. All about control. I personally wouldn’t pull on it with straps and a truck.
Hi Scheib, you know this already but cut root-ball off after placing logs underneath, at root-ball end! Start your cut and about half-way through wedge your newly formed cut, to prevent bar being pinched. Root ball is prevented from falling towards you by the trunk, and can only fall away. Extreme care when removing log next to root ball though. Mop up small lengths / splits first….unlikely anyone is going to tackle the ‘big boy.’ Take care…and great vid. Len (Devon 🇬🇧)
I'm not a professional. But I think that I would put blocks under it like you said. I would also put some under the stump as well just to be on the safe side
I wouldn’t mess with that big root ball at all especially when there is plenty of other wood on that property that you can easily get. The risk ain’t worth the reward.
I know professional but I would take a strap and wrap it right around the whole root ball on the top side of the trunk. Then I would use your trailer hitch winch that you have. And? I would hook that to a tree 50 or a 100 feet behind the route band that way like you say block the trunk up so it S today's suspended, but by using the winch rather than just a strap. It allows you to pull the root ball back down. In the upright position after you cut the tree if it doesn't fall back on its own that way, you don't have to worry about the root ball taking off down the hill.
The root ball weighs tons. The root ball will want to lay back down as it was before the tree fell. Be very cautious!! Block the tree away from the root ball , then acre fully cut. A little fire wood is not worth your life.
The stump should fall back into the hole. Just make sure to read the trunk and definitely wedge and keep the trunk from rolling. But when the stump goes watch out. It will go in a hurry!
Scheib, where they Left that Red Oak cut, some of it is Split in Half. You Could take that over to that tree that is Uprooted and Put some of That under the Uprooted Tree. In fact you could Layer them along the Whole Log. Use the Split End up and Just start Cutting. You may have to cut the Rounds in Half to Handle it. It's great looking Wood, it's Free so get as much as You can Buddy. Ron from the Woodyard in Duanesburg NY
In my opinion, I wouldn’t think anybody is going to want to mess with that big one, so that’s probably safe to let lay for now. I’d focus on the wood on the landing first, but instead of just going there with a saw, bucking it up, and then loading the bucked wood into your truck/trailer, why not just bring your splitter and trailer (and your conveyor if you want) right to the landing? Process it all right on site and bring the finished product home. This eliminates all the extra touches, and saves the wear and tear on your body by not having to lift the bigger, heavier pieces into your truck, and your saw if you’d have to rip the pieces first to get them more manageable. If it’s more work than you can do in a day, pull the tongue on your splitter so nobody steals it, lock the tongue on your conveyor, and leave them right at the landing. Go back the next day and finish up. That’s how I’d personally handle that situation. As for the big tree, I’d first set runners up underneath it every so many feet as level (side to side) as possible to help limit any potential rolling, like you said, then mark out your firewood lengths starting just above the root flare so that any waste from short pieces is minimized, since it would be at the top of the tree where the pieces are much smaller diameter. After that, if you have a nice floor jack, I’d just get that set up maybe two or three firewood piece lengths away from the root ball, and pump it so that theres upward pressure. Next, I’d work from the top of the tree toward the butt piece by piece. Or, if you’d feel better, cut log lengths at specific firewood marks and just get them free of the root ball. Either way would work. Once you get as much wood free of the root ball as you can, you should be within a piece or two of your jack. From that point, as others have said, a lot of times when a root is still attached, those knuckles tend to fall back into place, so as long as you can lift it just beyond the upright position, it should go back into place. When/if it does, you can just cut the last few firewood lengths off vertically. If you can’t get it with the jack, then you have two options; you can either get a piece of wood to brace under the remaining wood so you can get your jack out and leave the remaining pieces there, or, you can run a tag line back to a sturdy tree behind it and bring it over that way if you want. But personally, I’d try the jack first since it’s the simplest, and therefore quickest option, and then take it from there. Obviously, making sure that you’re cutting from the high side and all other rules apply lol And, once that tree is cut, again, I’d bring your splitter right to it and split right into your truck or trailer. No sense killing yourself and your saw to quarter the trunk pieces down and then lift them into your truck. Just bring the finished product right home. Again, this is all just one man’s opinion. I hope it helps, but if not, that’s ok too! Take care!
just put a log as close to the ball as you can get it. then strap off the root ball. then put log spaces where you want to make your cuts. always cut from the uphill side/if you have enough logs big enough to hold the tree with very little movement.
Strap and anchor to that tree behind it. Start your cut and drive a wedge or two into the cut and continue. The wedge will prevent the pinch. Your call on an undercut. I usually wrap around with the saw on one side and finish on the other, so drive your wedge when you get ready to finish. I carry an axe and wedge at all times with big rounds to prevent having to saw my saw out. Cheers.
I would cut all that wood you found first. I would cut the big tree from the top and leave the last 10 or 12 feet of the trunk. I do not have a big bar for that tree
That is a nice log for milling, I would tie off the root ball to another tree so that it can't fall downhill. Then bore cut it close to the bottom and cut all the way thru, then cut the far side in the same kerf and after start cutting from the top and stick a wedge in as soon as possible. That should keep you from pinching your bar.
Grab anything you can get to now first. As far as the big tree, with root ball. Block it up 10-12 feet away from where you want the lowest cut. But block it with two pieces leaving a gap to cut between. This will prevent pinching if you are patient and careful. Then buck up the downhill. With the remaining root ball and stump, you could then tip it back uphill with a simple snatch block run from an uphill tree, and stand it back up. Then just fell the 10-12 foot piece like you would a standing tree. Problem solved.
Block it up in several areas along the tree. Start at farthest point from root ball then just watch as you get closer to the root ball. Get all the easy stuff first.
hi there great show , lots of good wood on the road side . i have read most the comments and there a lot of good ones and some interesting ones as well , the pile of logger wood you just go at it 1 at a time , the big one i agree pieces placed under the main trunk ,good plan there , on the trunk part witch is the biggest who knows part , you will not know the direction it will go till you start cutting on it , you can only speculate on you bast exspirancee and hope you are right . don't underestimate the size ;weight and power of that stump , i would not put a chain or strap around the stump , if rolls pack it may land on the chain /strap and be difficult to get out . second a s/c around it gives fare less overall maniacal advantage. i would wrap the c/s around the stump then over the top of the root ball giving a much better maniacal advantage , as i recall dont you have some kind of e/winch . the next think is how are you going to get those big rounds in your truck , i have a hydraulic hand truck but the cylinder needs repair , ,give me a call if you like or need maybe come up with something , best to all john
Here in Canada if you find a log landing like that the logging company has 6 months after they leave to come grab what they want, same with a clear cut. Most of the time they never do. If your allowed I would grab the wood on the landing first, bring your dump trailer and load it up then tackle the big tree with the root ball tied back.
That is a massive root ball. Good luck. Great score. I know you are in a different state but when you find trees on the roadside do you have to make contact with the owner before removing? So many downed trees along the roadside here in GA that are just going to waste. Great content. Sure enjoy your videos.
Start cutting at the top of the tree and work towards the base. Have a wedge or 2 handy. You will soon get an an idea what the root ball is going to do, it will either fall back in the hole or stay upright...it's hard to access angle/ lean on a video.
Rap the roots and pull Back, were My Option too. And then cutting the Log on That Side First where the rootball have Kontact with the ground. that's how I would try it. Good Luck
I think your on the money with a winch pulling that big root ball. Maybe start cutting like 8 feet up from it or so just incase it tries rolling on ya you'll be a little safer? Thats landing area is a sweet score, that's a huge pile of firewood for sure!
I would start at the top & take some of those pieces to wedge under the tree a few feet from the butt then up maybe 1/2 way up . After that as your working down from the top you will either see the tree raising or it will lay on the chunks you put under it . Then you can either cut the root ball off if its falling back or you will need to leave a little wood on the butt so it is safe for you to cut . As for what i would do it would be get the tractor & grapple to make the job easier .
Looks like a very good score on the white oak . I guess I am blessed to get paid to bring my wood in meaning tree service and clearing lots . Definitely pull back on that root ball . In my case I would use the excavator to pull the root ball back . But your strap idea is a must to one as you said not pitch saw . But your safety is most important.
SCHEIB , here another idea block up 🆙 root ball ( stump ) with block of firewood 🪵 there behind your main cut into the log. Take way the stump shouldn’t be unsafe around you buddy . Hey white oak log is $$$$ for whiskey 🥃 and wine 🍷 barrels buddy .
Strap it, block it under the stump like you said and leave 8 feet or so of the stump that is blocked up so it doesn't tip over and cut your losses. Lots of wood there and not worth the risk of having the root mast falling on you.
I would just start blocking the wood off the elevated end of the tree and watch for the movement. If the tree moves up keep blocking until it's about to lift back, if it starts going lower, I would throw a couple blocks under the log near the root ball and then cut the trunk off. I wouldn't bother with the straps, you can secure the tree and root ball with a couple of blocks.
Get the wood pile first. Not many people will want to mess with that big stuff. Then start cutting on the small end propping up and wedging as you go. When you get close to the root ball wrap around the log and over the top of root ball and tie off to another tree. That way if it flops back into the hole it won't be on the strap. If you get that far. You may find that big white oak isn't worth it. That and the fact your yard is full. Have fun.
I might give up a foot or so of the butt and just put two supports under that butt end. One forced up toward the root ball as far as I could and the other right next to it but far enough apart so as to allow making your first cut. Enough support on the sides of the trunk as well to prevent it from rolling on you. You've got a lot of other wood around with which to prop it up. Good luck, don't take any chances.
From what i see. Its likely over center, and has a twist rotation possibly. My gut says it will pinch on the high side and go open on the underside. Use wedges to keep from pinching bar. Cut on low side first then go to the high side with the roots still attached. Thats my 0.01c
just give up the bottom 6 feet so it can't fall ontop of you and if it flies back you can still cut the wood...use large wedges for the top cuts and logs underneath to avoid pinching
G’day mate love the content, now if it was me I’d just go for all the easy stuff first ,why because it’s easy money 💰 😂 with that big tree put a support close to the stump of it and another one down from that one and cut in between them two be sure to have more supports on the bottom side to help keep the rest of it off the ground and cut from the top side of the log but the most important thing is to be safe as possible there is a lot of good ideas being suggested good luck with it mate 👍
Will be looking for the video making some cuts on that one. Lots of ways to tackle it and no need to make initial cuts close to the stump. If it stands up you just fall it again!
If I was tackling that tree I’d make a mark at the spot closest to the root ball I would be willing to cut. Then measure 8’ away (6 x 16”), cut off there, process the log. Finally process towards the rootball. As you cut off each single chunk you will be able to see how the ball is reacting. My guess is that the roots remaining in the ground will hold it as is …. Good luck.
Looks like it will just sit there tbh. It might move a bit once you get closer to the root ball but it looks pretty solid tbf. Just get your escape root clear And keep an eye out for movement.it could move but I don’t think it will go too far.
I would strap the root ball and put support under the tree like you said. When you start your cut have wedges to put in the cut if it starts to pinch. You could then start cutting from the bottom. Either way I believe that you are going to have to reassess once you start the cut and see what that massive root ball wants to do. Also, take Sushi Sam with you on this one incase something goes wrong. I don't like that root ball leaning down hill.
That's a tough one. Not a "professional" but years of experience in the woods. I think the strap or chain is a good idea but that rootball is easily 10 tons. Maybe use the strap and use some of the pole wood from the limbs as props? Good luck man, and be careful
When I said prop I should have been more specific. Use the poles like jackpots to keep the rootball from tipping towards the stem. Definitely put props under the log to keep it up off the ground.
I would probably brace the first few feet from the butt end to keep the root ball from rotating while you cut the rest of the trunk into rounds,and then would leave the root ball and those first few feet where they are. I doubt the firewood in the residual butt end is worth the time and hassle of installing straps and fussing with a come-along winch.
Hi Scheib!!😀😀
If I were to cut that tree. I would put a bunch of logs under it to keep it off the ground. Then I would start from the top and work my way toward the butt. As you get closer and closer to the stump you will find out witch way the rootball wants to fall. If it wants to tip down the hill. Just stop cutting about 4 feet from it and it won't fall over. I wouldn't be one bit afraid of it.
Take care and work safe!!😀😀
Logger Al
Like scheib said I would start from the top
As a professional Specializing in Storm Damage timber, I would block it on the stump side as well as under the log you want to save. 99 percent of the time if there is any roots attached they will flop back in the hole. I have cut on a hand full of hill sides as well and have never had a stump tip over. If you do strap it, Make sure you get to the biggest tree you can and strap it low as possible. Strapping to another tree runs the risk of tipping that tree over on top of you if the root ball decides it want to go down hill. Take your time and read the stump, Cut slow and watch what the stump is doing. I always drive wedges from the top and let the bottom tear if needed. Don't cut it from the bottom, you will lose control of the stump. It appears that when they pushed it up with the loader it might have been moved a bit as well.
Go after the easy stuff first, if its easy everyone would do it. If you were closer I certainly would come teach you and lend a hand. If you have other question let me know, and I will help you if I can. Good luck and stay safe.
Best advice ⬆️
Another commenter suggested cutting the stem starting on top and then switching to the bottom side…🤦🏻♂️
Although it might make for entertaining content, cutting from the top down would allow you to use wedges to better control your kerf in the rare chance that the root ball tips towards you and away from the hole.
Also: The Firewood label on the bag helps guys like JOHIO Woodburner determine if it contains Onions or firewood!🧐
Bless’ns brother,
Tedd
Keep it simple . All I would do is take some of the white oak closer to the road. cut them into lengths long enough to keep the tree supported. Use your maul to drive the supports in tight and you should be fine. And if you still feel uncomfortable with the root ball as you cut closer to it, just leave the last few feet. You said it’s rotten anyways.
A PEICE OF CAKE.
Good luck Scheib. Great job
Strap it, block it under the stump like you said and leave 8 feet or so of the stump that is blocked up so it doesn't tip over and cut your losses. Lots of wood there and not worth the risk of having the root mast falling on you. You may be able to use your truck in 4x4 with cable and snatch block later to pull the root mast and stump vertical again then fell the remaining 8 feet the stump you left.
I think I would get the wood at the log landing and then go back for the fallen tree
Get the easier wood first. Then if you want that big girl, you could leave enough post of the trunk to keep it from coming your way. Pile a little wood under the trunk to hold the log up and get after it. I try to leave those big ones alone - sometimes the juice is not worth the squeeze, but there is a lot of wood to be harvested from it.
Just leave the last ten feet of the tree to be safe. Be sure to used lots of wedges as you cut that tree, I have use jacks to Jack trees to block them up to cut them
My non professional 200 miles away thought would be to prop it up in the middle as best you can and work it from the other end. At some point it may bind but some wedges in the cut usually keep it open enough to cut. It may also start getting light in which case the root ball will fall back in the hole for you. Definitely get the easy pickings from the log landing first as very few would be willing to tackle the big dog so it will still be there for a while.
Log under the trunk close to the root ball and cut down the trunk towards the root ball. It will show you where it wants to go as the trunk gets lighter. Bring wedges to keep the bar from getting pinched.
Great stuff , that stump will fall right off that log ,some wedges on top when you start cutting
If I were doing that log, I believe I'd run a tow strap around the trunk close to the root ball. Then go up and over the root ball back to a solid tree and crank it really tight like you were trying to stand up your tree. That will keep you safe working under it's shadow.
I'm always around if you want help. I work cheap, a few chunks of wood keeps me happy! 😁😁
I think the safe move is to cut it far enough from the stump that if it tips it can't get you. You can work your way closer to the root ball and judge the balance of it better with less tree attached. A couple saw kerfs to secure the strap/winch would be good for stabilizing it.
Yes i think thats the way i would go as well, its a bit far from England though😊 ps, Mr Scheib, stop smoking and drinking beer, you need all the fitness you can get for your job. Hope you don’t mind me saying so.
Hello Mr. Scheib, Run a rope or chain over the top of the root ball, and around the base of the trunk, use a come along to another stout tree, put several tons of force on the rope with the come along, and then cut the tree 5-6 feet from the base, have a friend keep on winching the whole time you cut slowly so he can keep up the pressure, it will flip and stand up some so you can cut off the stump, maybe a board on the ground with a bottle jack or automotive floor jack to add pressure then cut infront of the jack at a slight angle so that the saw does pinch the kerf will get wider as you cut deeper in the log.
Hello Scheib, I would cut top towards the stump, when you are about 8’ from the stump, uncut it. It will tell what it wants to do. 🤞 🤘🏻🪵🇺🇸
I’m in agreement with logger Jason that every tree I’ve cut with roots attached ALWAYS the base/roots want to go back into their hole. They are always dangerous. Wear your safety gear and be safe out there.
I would put a log under it a couple feet from the root ball. Then cut about 10" down from top. Then start cutting up from the bottom slowly. See which way the root ball wants to go. It may want to return to the hole so keep your head back. Bring a second saw.
Scheib, I would first get the wood off of the log deck. As you said that is easy to get to and others are going to go for that first. Second take care of the pile of logs closest to the road. Save some of it there to put under the large tree. Now here is what I would do...Find a friend that has a tractor or a skid steer with a grappler attachment, because those large rounds are going to be real difficult to move and pick up by hand. When you get near the rootball use the tractor or skidsteer to push against the rootball and let it flip back over into the hole. I've done this several times with red and white oaks here in Virginia. This is not a job for one person you will need help. Look into renting the equipment if you don't have someone that has this type of equipment. I wish we were closer to each other I would bring my stuff to help because I love doing this type of wood recovery. Stay safe, be careful, wishing you well.
Put some wood under it close to the root ball to kept it off the ground but start cutting at the top of the tree and work your way back to the trunk. Bring a wedge with you just in case you get pinched. I dont think you will need to strap it.
Hey, brother. Perhaps consider climbing up on the trunk, putting your butt up against the root ball, and step off about perhaps 8'. And then make your 1st cut or last cut whichever way you wanna do it.2 things may happen. that 8' section that currently supports the root ball won't fall over but second if it does fall over then it won't interfere with all the rest of the cuts you want to make. Best of success. Chip
Good morning! That is quite the dilemma with that root ball. I think I would start with the easy stuff first that is by the road. Once you have that gone then I would start at the top of the tree(making sure that you block up the log so it cannot pinch your saw) and work my way to the butt. I would then strap the root ball and try to put some tension on it to see if you can get any more off the butt end. Good Luck and stay safe.
Collect the small rounds and build a crane for the back of your truck or a log arch for your trailer. Save your back!!
I had the exact same situation with a Norway Spruce. I threw a chain up over rootball and chained near bottom of tree. Then used a come-a-long to a tree near the backside of rootball. I then started bucking on the upper side of spruce (braced with rounds under tree) & cut towards rootball. When you get close to rootball; it will tell you what it WANTS to do. - adjust with come-along if necessary.
I’d put a few logs under it. Then go to about where you think it’s hills and bore cut it. Then I’d work from the end blocking it up. You’ll see what way the root ball wants to go. Thin you cut in the bore cut either top or bottom. Then release the other edge of bore cut and clip the trigger trying not to pinch your bar. Bring some wedges and an extra saw. Signed a non professional firewood cutter.
Don,I’m probably not the only person who thinks that you’re right about strapping the whole rooting on the huge tree 😮😊❤
Seems like everyone else is chipping in a lot of good info scheib. Agreed tackle the easier pile that’s ready for the taking that big tree isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. If it were me I would work my way from top to rootball until that branch to keep everything off the ground. Buck most of the way through the rest with a wedge to see if it’s in tension or compression then go from there. So when you make your cut the majority of it is done at a comfortable height, saw is out of the dirt, and safely still intact
I’m not a professional logger but I am a hazard responder for the power company and do this quite a bit. Plus we do a lot of rigging. I work a swing shift and have Wednesday and Thursday off. I live by Ohio Wood Burner so if you want a hand let me know.
I think you are right on with winching the root ball back,but then your going to have pull or drop it after
i would strap it to a tree with a come along like you talked about , block under it so it wouldn't get on the ground . then i would undercut it first but do the cut through from the top . most likely the root ball will fall back in the hole but the partial undercut should keep it from splitting and barber chairing and binding the saw . good luck and be safe
That's a lot of wood at the landing....I'd start with that. Easy pickings. The tree with the root ball....I'd start furthest away from the root ball and remove small lengths to see how it behaves as small amounts of weight come off. A strap with a come along winch may be appropriate as you work your way up the tree towards the ball.
If i were cutting that big oak i would start at the top and work my way towards the root ball
I like your thinking Scheib. Strap it and let it go. 😉👍
Stick anything under that log you can. It’s too big to move once you start cutting. Your first cut should be as close to the root ball as you can get it. Start from the top, cut a third of the way through, then switch and cut from the bottom, to meet up. Hopefully as you get closer to the top cut it will open up for you and root ball will fall back into its original position in the ground. Hope some of this helps.
Scheib if that were my tree I would put a log perpendicular under the tree as close to the root ball as possible. I’d also make it so it barely fits that or snugly fits. Then put another log perpendicular under the tree a few ft up and make your cut in between those two logs. That way once you make your cut even of the root ball wants to fall your direction it’ll immediately drive on the first log you put down. And if the tension is on the upper part of the tree once it gets cut that will rest on the other log you put in. I would not try to ratchet the root ball the other way because that would only add more tension for it to spring one way or another. You don’t want any spring loaded/fast movements. If you make your cut and the root ball comes your way resting on the log you put there then ratchet it back down (once it’s disconnected from the tree) and let it fall back into place. I wouldn’t work around a trunk that had a root ball held up by a single log. Just my .02 not a pro
Strap around base of tree over top of root ball, put a bar behind strap closer to the top so it doesn't pull through the dirt. Probably help with a friend to tighten the strap as you cut. Definitely go after the easy pile first. No professional here, farm raised man thet had to go into public work, and I deal with really heavy stuff.
I will be interested to see how this turns out. Thanks for the info on the bags. Keep up the good work in the woods and at drill!
Tons of comments! I read many of them. I agree with working from the top down to the stump. That will reduce the weight and compression you are dealing with. Once you get to just a stem I would put limbs underneath like you said and release the root ball. I haven’t seen this suggestion but in cases like that, I like to bore cut the middle. 2 options from there. You can work down and leave a little at the bottom. If you do that I would try to get most of the wood on the far side. Then work your way up and leave a little on the top too. Then pull your saw out and then start to cut what you left from the top. The bottom should just tear out. I prefer doing this way bc with wedges it’s sometimes hard to know what the tree is telling you. Second option is do the bore cut and cut the whole bottom out. Then pull out your saw and like a foot up the tree so another bore cut and do the opposite and work your bar up. You will have a lot of control by releasing the log that way. That way is how they teach in PA Game of Logging. All about control. I personally wouldn’t pull on it with straps and a truck.
Hi Scheib, you know this already but cut root-ball off after placing logs underneath, at root-ball end! Start your cut and about half-way through wedge your newly formed cut, to prevent bar being pinched. Root ball is prevented from falling towards you by the trunk, and can only fall away. Extreme care when removing log next to root ball though. Mop up small lengths / splits first….unlikely anyone is going to tackle the ‘big boy.’ Take care…and great vid. Len (Devon 🇬🇧)
Definitely get the "precut" pile first, not too many others will be crazy enough to go after that bug ass tree. Wooooo
Scheib, your first assesment is the way I would do it! Having some tension on that root ball would make me feel alot safer! Winch it!
I'm not a professional. But I think that I would put blocks under it like you said. I would also put some under the stump as well just to be on the safe side
I wouldn’t mess with that big root ball at all especially when there is plenty of other wood on that property that you can easily get. The risk ain’t worth the reward.
I know professional but I would take a strap and wrap it right around the whole root ball on the top side of the trunk. Then I would use your trailer hitch winch that you have. And?
I would hook that to a tree 50 or a 100 feet behind the route band that way like you say block the trunk up so it S today's suspended, but by using the winch rather than just a strap. It allows you to pull the root ball back down.
In the upright position after you cut the tree if it doesn't fall back on its own that way, you don't have to worry about the root ball taking off down the hill.
The root ball weighs tons. The root ball will want to lay back down as it was before the tree fell. Be very cautious!! Block the tree away from the root ball , then acre fully cut. A little fire wood is not worth your life.
I did one like that...and it had about 8 feet from the root and it stood up on me. Almost lost my head and saw. Dangerous!
The stump should fall back into the hole. Just make sure to read the trunk and definitely wedge and keep the trunk from rolling. But when the stump goes watch out. It will go in a hurry!
You could sacrifice 5-6 foot on the root ball so it don't fall on you. Looks like it might want to roll to the side when it falls
Scheib, where they Left that Red Oak cut, some of it is Split in Half. You Could take that over to that tree that is Uprooted and Put some of That under the Uprooted Tree. In fact you could Layer them along the Whole Log. Use the Split End up and Just start Cutting. You may have to cut the Rounds in Half to Handle it. It's great looking Wood, it's Free so get as much as You can Buddy. Ron from the Woodyard in Duanesburg NY
In my opinion, I wouldn’t think anybody is going to want to mess with that big one, so that’s probably safe to let lay for now. I’d focus on the wood on the landing first, but instead of just going there with a saw, bucking it up, and then loading the bucked wood into your truck/trailer, why not just bring your splitter and trailer (and your conveyor if you want) right to the landing? Process it all right on site and bring the finished product home. This eliminates all the extra touches, and saves the wear and tear on your body by not having to lift the bigger, heavier pieces into your truck, and your saw if you’d have to rip the pieces first to get them more manageable. If it’s more work than you can do in a day, pull the tongue on your splitter so nobody steals it, lock the tongue on your conveyor, and leave them right at the landing. Go back the next day and finish up. That’s how I’d personally handle that situation.
As for the big tree, I’d first set runners up underneath it every so many feet as level (side to side) as possible to help limit any potential rolling, like you said, then mark out your firewood lengths starting just above the root flare so that any waste from short pieces is minimized, since it would be at the top of the tree where the pieces are much smaller diameter. After that, if you have a nice floor jack, I’d just get that set up maybe two or three firewood piece lengths away from the root ball, and pump it so that theres upward pressure. Next, I’d work from the top of the tree toward the butt piece by piece. Or, if you’d feel better, cut log lengths at specific firewood marks and just get them free of the root ball. Either way would work. Once you get as much wood free of the root ball as you can, you should be within a piece or two of your jack. From that point, as others have said, a lot of times when a root is still attached, those knuckles tend to fall back into place, so as long as you can lift it just beyond the upright position, it should go back into place. When/if it does, you can just cut the last few firewood lengths off vertically. If you can’t get it with the jack, then you have two options; you can either get a piece of wood to brace under the remaining wood so you can get your jack out and leave the remaining pieces there, or, you can run a tag line back to a sturdy tree behind it and bring it over that way if you want. But personally, I’d try the jack first since it’s the simplest, and therefore quickest option, and then take it from there. Obviously, making sure that you’re cutting from the high side and all other rules apply lol
And, once that tree is cut, again, I’d bring your splitter right to it and split right into your truck or trailer. No sense killing yourself and your saw to quarter the trunk pieces down and then lift them into your truck. Just bring the finished product right home.
Again, this is all just one man’s opinion. I hope it helps, but if not, that’s ok too! Take care!
A power co guy here cut a few root ball fallen trees. Clear your cutting area and be quick to escape. These things will surprise you!!
just put a log as close to the ball as you can get it. then strap off the root ball. then put log spaces where you want to make your cuts. always cut from the uphill side/if you have enough logs big enough to hold the tree with very little movement.
And yeah, I would hit up that log geared.Looks like quite the score for you.Probably almost a year's worth of firewood
Easy stuff then straps and wedges you got this 😊
Strap and anchor to that tree behind it. Start your cut and drive a wedge or two into the cut and continue. The wedge will prevent the pinch. Your call on an undercut. I usually wrap around with the saw on one side and finish on the other, so drive your wedge when you get ready to finish. I carry an axe and wedge at all times with big rounds to prevent having to saw my saw out. Cheers.
I would put brace the tree first, put a chain around the root bulb come along it to another tree. And as you cut it drive wages in as you cut.
I would cut all that wood you found first. I would cut the big tree from the top and leave the last 10 or 12 feet of the trunk. I do not have a big bar for that tree
That is a nice log for milling, I would tie off the root ball to another tree so that it can't fall downhill. Then bore cut it close to the bottom and cut all the way thru, then cut the far side in the same kerf and after start cutting from the top and stick a wedge in as soon as possible.
That should keep you from pinching your bar.
Grab anything you can get to now first. As far as the big tree, with root ball. Block it up 10-12 feet away from where you want the lowest cut. But block it with two pieces leaving a gap to cut between. This will prevent pinching if you are patient and careful. Then buck up the downhill. With the remaining root ball and stump, you could then tip it back uphill with a simple snatch block run from an uphill tree, and stand it back up. Then just fell the 10-12 foot piece like you would a standing tree. Problem solved.
Block it up in several areas along the tree. Start at farthest point from root ball then just watch as you get closer to the root ball. Get all the easy stuff first.
Cleanup the stuff by the road, put strap around root ball and pull it up hill!! Thinking thats the safest way!! Stay Hydrated and Have a Safe Day
Schieb with a small machine, a grapple, a dump trailer and 6 or 7 loads later, you could have that little pile in your backyard
hi there great show , lots of good wood on the road side . i have read most the comments and there a lot of good ones and some interesting ones as well , the pile of logger wood you just go at it 1 at a time , the big one i agree pieces placed under the main trunk ,good plan there , on the trunk part witch is the biggest who knows part , you will not know the direction it will go till you start cutting on it , you can only speculate on you bast exspirancee and hope you are right . don't underestimate the size ;weight and power of that stump , i would not put a chain or strap around the stump , if rolls pack it may land on the chain /strap and be difficult to get out . second a s/c around it gives fare less overall maniacal advantage. i would wrap the c/s around the stump then over the top of the root ball giving a much better maniacal advantage , as i recall dont you have some kind of e/winch . the next think is how are you going to get those big rounds in your truck , i have a hydraulic hand truck but the cylinder needs repair , ,give me a call if you like or need maybe come up with something , best to all john
I would use a tongue and grove or an axle cut on this…however, you could do an open face notch on the bottom and cut down from the top…use wedges…
That wood landing got a lot of firewood 🪵 for you SCHEIB . Hey 👋 get the easy stuff first before the TIMBER thevies show up 🆙 buddy . 😊
That's the plan!
Here in Canada if you find a log landing like that the logging company has 6 months after they leave to come grab what they want, same with a clear cut. Most of the time they never do. If your allowed I would grab the wood on the landing first, bring your dump trailer and load it up then tackle the big tree with the root ball tied back.
That is a massive root ball. Good luck. Great score. I know you are in a different state but when you find trees on the roadside do you have to make contact with the owner before removing? So many downed trees along the roadside here in GA that are just going to waste. Great content. Sure enjoy your videos.
Highly dangerous my cousin almost died from one like this ,I recommend propping a couple of spots. And your right strap it , cable, safety first
Start cutting at the top of the tree and work towards the base. Have a wedge or 2 handy. You will soon get an an idea what the root ball is going to do, it will either fall back in the hole or stay upright...it's hard to access angle/ lean on a video.
That is one big ol tree man, I'd work my way from the top.Can't always get every single piece but the rest of the tree is still a damn good haul.
Rap the roots and pull Back, were My Option too. And then cutting the Log on That Side First where the rootball have Kontact with the ground.
that's how I would try it.
Good Luck
I think your on the money with a winch pulling that big root ball. Maybe start cutting like 8 feet up from it or so just incase it tries rolling on ya you'll be a little safer? Thats landing area is a sweet score, that's a huge pile of firewood for sure!
Bring a couple saws for sure!
I would start at the top & take some of those pieces to wedge under the tree a few feet from the butt then up maybe 1/2 way up . After that as your working down from the top you will either see the tree raising or it will lay on the chunks you put under it . Then you can either cut the root ball off if its falling back or you will need to leave a little wood on the butt so it is safe for you to cut . As for what i would do it would be get the tractor & grapple to make the job easier .
Support the log and get bucking ! just like guys below said ! Cheers
Looks like a very good score on the white oak . I guess I am blessed to get paid to bring my wood in meaning tree service and clearing lots . Definitely pull back on that root ball . In my case I would use the excavator to pull the root ball back . But your strap idea is a must to one as you said not pitch saw . But your safety is most important.
Use wedges at the top of first cut, no pinching of bar.
SCHEIB , here another idea block up 🆙 root ball ( stump ) with block of firewood 🪵 there behind your main cut into the log. Take way the stump shouldn’t be unsafe around you buddy . Hey white oak log is $$$$ for whiskey 🥃 and wine 🍷 barrels buddy .
Strap it, block it under the stump like you said and leave 8 feet or so of the stump that is blocked up so it doesn't tip over and cut your losses. Lots of wood there and not worth the risk of having the root mast falling on you.
I would just stick with the easy Pickins. Avoid problems.
I would just start blocking the wood off the elevated end of the tree and watch for the movement. If the tree moves up keep blocking until it's about to lift back, if it starts going lower, I would throw a couple blocks under the log near the root ball and then cut the trunk off. I wouldn't bother with the straps, you can secure the tree and root ball with a couple of blocks.
Wedges are your friend. Start at the top and work down. You’ll get a better idea of what the root wants to do as
You get closer to it
Get the wood pile first. Not many people will want to mess with that big stuff. Then start cutting on the small end propping up and wedging as you go. When you get close to the root ball wrap around the log and over the top of root ball and tie off to another tree. That way if it flops back into the hole it won't be on the strap. If you get that far. You may find that big white oak isn't worth it. That and the fact your yard is full. Have fun.
My only advice is to get a push cart, and a winch set up to lift those monster pieces. Save your back!!!!😂😂🍻 you'll figure the root ball out
I might give up a foot or so of the butt and just put two supports under that butt end. One forced up toward the root ball as far as I could and the other right next to it but far enough apart so as to allow making your first cut. Enough support on the sides of the trunk as well to prevent it from rolling on you. You've got a lot of other wood around with which to prop it up. Good luck, don't take any chances.
From what i see.
Its likely over center, and has a twist rotation possibly.
My gut says it will pinch on the high side and go open on the underside.
Use wedges to keep from pinching bar.
Cut on low side first then go to the high side with the roots still attached.
Thats my 0.01c
Even starting at small end, you need to brace that stump, because in my mind its over its balance point.
just give up the bottom 6 feet so it can't fall ontop of you and if it flies back you can still cut the wood...use large wedges for the top cuts and logs underneath to avoid pinching
G’day mate love the content, now if it was me I’d just go for all the easy stuff first ,why because it’s easy money 💰 😂 with that big tree put a support close to the stump of it and another one down from that one and cut in between them two be sure to have more supports on the bottom side to help keep the rest of it off the ground and cut from the top side of the log but the most important thing is to be safe as possible there is a lot of good ideas being suggested good luck with it mate 👍
Will be looking for the video making some cuts on that one. Lots of ways to tackle it and no need to make initial cuts close to the stump. If it stands up you just fall it again!
How about using 2 smaller pieces to support the monster at the base. Cut between them without punching the bar.
If I was tackling that tree I’d make a mark at the spot closest to the root ball I would be willing to cut. Then measure 8’ away (6 x 16”), cut off there, process the log. Finally process towards the rootball. As you cut off each single chunk you will be able to see how the ball is reacting. My guess is that the roots remaining in the ground will hold it as is …. Good luck.
Scheib, I'll hold your beer and video....😅
Start at the top of the tree and work your way to the stump.
Looks like it will just sit there tbh. It might move a bit once you get closer to the root ball but it looks pretty solid tbf.
Just get your escape root clear
And keep an eye out for movement.it could move but I don’t think it will go too far.
I would strap the root ball and put support under the tree like you said. When you start your cut have wedges to put in the cut if it starts to pinch. You could then start cutting from the bottom. Either way I believe that you are going to have to reassess once you start the cut and see what that massive root ball wants to do. Also, take Sushi Sam with you on this one incase something goes wrong. I don't like that root ball leaning down hill.
I would do a plunge cut about 2" from top and cut all the way down. Then come back and cut the top
Come along and cable. Pull the root ball uphill that way it falls up hill
That's a tough one. Not a "professional" but years of experience in the woods. I think the strap or chain is a good idea but that rootball is easily 10 tons. Maybe use the strap and use some of the pole wood from the limbs as props? Good luck man, and be careful
When I said prop I should have been more specific. Use the poles like jackpots to keep the rootball from tipping towards the stem. Definitely put props under the log to keep it up off the ground.
Go from the top down and it will show you what it will do. No worries!
Truck strap and a prayer lol
Agree 100% with a strap and pulley on that Root Ball. Pulley should be able to flip it back away from the Trunk.
I would probably brace the first few feet from the butt end to keep the root ball from rotating while you cut the rest of the trunk into rounds,and then would leave the root ball and those first few feet where they are. I doubt the firewood in the residual butt end is worth the time and hassle of installing straps and fussing with a come-along winch.