Should just add: these polyurethane pads are for the on/off action of trials riding and for that they are unbeatable but they don't like high temps so don't put them on your gravity racer people!
Good thing I caught that part..)/* I had to stop watching you vivisect brand new pads anyway..( Would you glue rubber to rubber if you were making dh pads?)/* Be nice to your fingers bro and save some blood for the trails..)
Back in the day, we were running SD7 levers with Avid Ultimate or Shimano XTR brakes paired with selfmade pads that hada very special rubber - when road workers put down asphalt, there is a heavy roller machine that rolls it completely flat. That roller has a "cleaning" brim that runs along the length of the roller to wipe off the stuck particles on the roller. That SPECIFIC rubber made the best pads for us here in Estonia, the whole scene depended on having them. Nobody knows what was the exact compound but it sure did work well. I still have a pair of CA-glued pads in my dads house after 20+ years. Great video, loved it, good nostalgiatrip.
That's a cool story, it's funny how you sometimes stumble onto something that works well but you don't know much about why it works as well as it does :)
When I was a kid I decided to make my own brake pads by molding hot glue. I lived on a big hill... the bike was screaming all the way down, and these awesome black meter-long rope-worms were streaming off the rim. Success!
Omg. This is such a coincidence. About am hour ago I saw a video of you mentioning the homemade pads. I search thru your channel's videos and didn't find anything related so I gave up. And an hour later you post this... So grate!! Thanks!
Thank you for revealing your secret. I'm a bike polo player, and we borrow a lot of tech from trials riding. Disc brakes have been king for a while, but we also prefer the on/off hard bit for bike polo. I'm going to experiment with this to see if bringing rim brakes back to polo might be popular!
I did it! Bought a A-1120 belt, cut a piece, glued it to a worn off V-brake (after cutting and sanding both) and it works like a charm. Been using it in wet weather and snow and it definitely wears off less than the traditional brake pads. And it costs 4 bucks for like 15 pads!
I love it Ali. This is the 1st hack of this sort that I am totally going to do. Excellent video illustrating the progression of learning and finding better solutions. Thank you SIr. Cheers
@@Ali_Clarkson I was hoping to be able to use it but since i ride mountain bike not trials I’m afraid I would generate too much heat braking and the pads would separate. I do have a 1990s GT karokoram that isn’t too dissimilar to your first trials bike… hmm
Just checked out your links and its exactly what I use!! I use the red 90A for the rear pads and the dark blue 90A for the front, it is weird how different the different colors feel even though they are both rated at 90A
Nah front brakes are always sharper because of the way the braking forces are distributed. Im sure if you swapped blue to back and red to front it would be an indescernable difference.
@@owenwilson3750 Yes I've tried them each way around and same color front and back, they defiantly feel different. The blue has slightly more bite but feels less precise, my rear brake has a booster made of 6160 and I like the rear wheel to be as solid as possible so I run the red there and the dark blue on the front which is a 4130 fork with no booster. I was pleased to see in this vid that Ali had also found the different colors with the same rating gave different performance and that it wasn't just me.
I really like the blue stuff in Vbrakes but the red seems to work better in hydraulic brakes for some reason...it's weird how materials can have little nuances like this
@@owenwilson3750 the added pigment has physical properties too so not very weird. Like black is usually added coal and makes a LOT of difference. For all the 90A they use the same base material when produced.
Hi, I'm your big fan. I think your TH-cam channel is the most useful for me. There is really everything needed for me. Technique, riding skills, bike builds... Just everything. Today I started making brake blocks for Magura brakes, exactly according to your instructions. I have CNC mounts the same as yours and a 20x20x500mm polyurethane block. I use a bench drill vise to cut extra tough polyurethane. I clamp a precision steel knife into it and cut it with a hydraulic press. And I also use a belt sander, of course. It works great. Now I hope it will brake well. 🙂👍 I am quite old (43) and a few months ago I bought my first trial bike. And I also bought one for my son and now we train hard together. Good luck!
Poliurethane is a two component mixture like epoxy resin. If you can somehow source the components, you can pour it into various shapes. Actually that's how they make engine mounts, shock absorbing bushings, flexibly shaft couplings and all that. The downside is that you have to make a negative shape to pour into, and you most likely can't reuse it unless you are able to make a polished surface and use some non-stick coating. These days 3D printing is accessible to print pouring forms. It's been a while since I used PU rods, I didn't realized that I could make my own PU parts now!
@@gabiold I did experiment with mixing and pouring my own pads (into a block rather than into a pad shaped mold) but it wasn't as good as pre-made stuff. Might be worth more testing though
My father did one pair of brake pads (rim brake, steel wire actuated) from truck wheel chunk two years ago performed wonderful until the frame of that bike decided to give up... but these pads still in good conditions. I guess they are no longer suitable for braking without damaging a rim made of aluminum, because of galvanization process. But hey, thats cool finding your video about that topic, is a interesting one! (and yes, this trick can save a lot of money and if you do it properly, could be even more safe than the pads you usually buy at a bike store!)
Nice! I don't ride trials anymore but 25 years ago I worked with the former owner 5.10 who worked with me to develop pads by putting additives and fiber to their Stealth rubber. I still have a couple of the "slumps" from the variations that we tried. The pads were amazing, but we never found an adhesive that would keep them firmly adhered to the aluminum backing.
Remember to not just apply the super glue to the pad material and backing, but also most of your fingers, the workbench, and anything else within close proximity.
A couple of suggestions for cutting the pads (no experience with this particular use case): * Paper guillotine or a cleaver kitchen knife for the initial cut (sturdy blade with good leverage). * Small C-clamps for better fixation.
Caveat on paper cutters - thicker material can be hard to secure, I've had stuff wander on me, sometimes under the blade. don't hold with your hand while cutting lest the block roll towards the blade with your hand on it. If you can't clamp it don't use a paper guillotine
@@robbiedevine8518 yeah, clamps are a must. I was rather thinking about cutting a prolonged bar. Long enough to make the leverage sufficient for hand to hold.
I never guessed you were gluing the material on. The first video of yours i stumbled across where you mentioned home made brake pads and any time I've seen them since, I some how got the idea you were casting the material on to the backer and then carving the excess away. Really cool to see how you actually do it!
Good stuff! Cutting a hole in the bottom of the plastic container, for your shop vac hose to fit in, then setting this up closely behind your sander, makes for an excellent dust collector. (The collector can easily be made using thick cardboard, scrap wood, or even an old metal bread loaf baking tin.)
I've always thought you had to use molten rubber to get the pad material to match the backing. I never realised a CA glue butt joint would be strong enough!
yeah it blew my mind a bit to find out how strong CA glue can be...I have tried mixing my own polyurethane and pouring it into a block to be cut later but the end result wasn't as good as pre-made stuff
I suggest a Mitre box for straight cuts. There are small hobby ones that would suit this work. Cut with small coping saw or use the knife for what works best I reckon. Thanks for sharing Ali, I know I did ask you as well about this, great video!
A band saw with a fence seems like the perfect tool for cutting the stock to size quickly and safely, but I realize most people don't have a band saw as part of their available tools. Short of that, a wooden or plastic jig (something like a miter box) could be a good addition to your hacksaw and vice method to increase accuracy and minimize metal on metal contact dulling your blades.
Wow you finally did it! Seems like a good process and I have two things I thought of: I wonder if one of the handheld ratcheting shears normaly used for cutting pvc pipe would be good. I see some around even have a little mitre box so you can cut nice angles. Then, I thought of how about casting some pourable urethane resin? That would also allow for adding things like fiberglass/silica/carbon powders to play with the friction. Anyway, cool video as usual!
I suggest trying a fine / high TPI razor saw or dovetail saw with a wide enough mitre box for the initial cuts. Stay away from those knife blades - one slip and you could easily slice through tendons and nerves and end your riding career. Or at least invest in some armoured cut-resistant gloves. Your brake pads look good and I would ride them but making them is a high impact high probability risk. Stay safe enough, cheers!
First, I hope your Pain gets better and you find ways to manage it in the future! I´m really about that Video, it´s the one i waited so long! I just love doing diy Hacks on my Bikes as much as posible ^^ Thanks to your Channel Content I´m building my first Trial Bike (a Work in Progress)
@@Ali_Clarkson thanks for reply. I tought so, would never got any idea to use them but nice idea anyway. Just imagine riding down the mountain road and your brake pads melt while breaking at 70kmph 😬
Brilliant video, thanks Ali. Not a trials rider, but I'll definitely be making some pads. If i can get to 90% performance of my favourites, but considerably less than 15quid a pair I'll be very happy
@@Ali_Clarkson Cheers Ali, that's really great info. it will be on the rear brake on my commuter; so I just need short burts of powerful braking rather than long drags (I use my front for all the modulation etc)
great tutorial! gotta live dangerous sometimes. a square would be helpful for the initial dimensioning. woodworking tools will be helpful also. thank you for sharing
@@Ali_Clarkson Hello again Ali, thx for replying. I'm still a little confused. Doing some research I found out that there's the regular vbrake pads, the hydraulic rim "click" pads and the CNC backing pads. Do all of those work with normal deore vbrake arms? How do you physically mount them on the arm (I noticed that there's a hole in the CNC ones is it for the screw?)? Thx again, love your content
@@luizcarvalho4245 no they need to be specific v-brake versions which have the threaded rod like normal v-pads. As I said these are very rare now and I don’t think there are currently any trials brands making CNC v backings.
@@Ali_Clarkson oh, that sucks. So on a deore vbrake I'll have to go for the regular ones? Do they work as great (with custom made pads and grinded rims)? Thx one more time
Hello Ali, I have no idea if you look at comments on previous videos but the materials you used and said was your favourite isn't available anymore. Can you maybe update the link or give another one? I would really like to try and make my pads. Thanks a lot anyways
hi ali im new here great video i have an electric bike with v brakes and always having to replace the pads would it be possible to use the same material for both front and back if so what was it you used again please
I wouldn’t recommend this to you unfortunately, this is very specific to trials riding and the material I’m using will just melt for any riding that generates heat.
@@Ali_Clarkson thank you for replying its a shame there isnt another video that shows you what you could use for electric bikes would be much cheaper to make your own pads that way
@@garrylee8355 it’d just be a case of experimenting with different rubbers but once you found one that worked it would be the same process as the video
At what temperature does your glue come undone, and how hot do your brakepads get? Find out with an IR-temp gun. Seems there is potential for scary downhill runs on somehting that isn't a trials bike.
Probably not much. I've seen cyanoacrilate glues advertised as high-temp, with 135 degC max. temperature. But rim brakes are not ideal for downhill anyways, disc brake pad materials are so much better and provide way better and smoother modulation in hot/cold/wet/muddy conditions, while these are essentially on/off brakes for trials.
I only recently discovered printing in PU was a thing, would be interesting but computers aren’t my strong point so I don’t think I’m the man for the job
I tried it. In my experience they are not good, it seems thermoplastic poliurethane has poor mechanical properties compared to casting urethane. Anyway it could depend on 3d filament (brand, additives, etc). Try to find a local 3d print service, it cost to me 30€.
I tried but honestly nothing works quite as well as a blade, polyurethanes strong points are it’s resistance to abrasives (why it makes a good trials pad) and tearing. This means trying to sand or cut it with hand tools is very tricky
I feel like there is potential here for some kind of phase change material. Something with an ultra low melting point at first that hardens instantly. Im thinking something like glue that would grip instantly but then easily release from the rim.
It's 11 at night and the auto parts stores are closed I was trying to find DIY brake pads for the car. I couldn't believe actually found one! I think I might give this a go on my girl's old Camry. After all, what's the worst that could happen
As an old school BMX rider I like the idea of homemade brake pads but I have a weird problem that I run V-brake pads on my U Brakes.... I've been doing it for a long time and I don't plan on stopping. LoL
Gotta say that I love this kind of diy content. Probably never using it..but good to know when I can't find proper vbrake pads. I also wonder if ppl have modded their vbrakes to get better results like an XXL brake pad, or using 4 in stead of 2 brake pads. I used a mechanical disc brake for 2 weeks..but I always got annoyed by it's inconsistency, would always fade after idk 10-15 meters of braking
I have wondered about a razer sharp chisel, no idea how it would work being hammered into a rubber though, slicing seems to work better than impacts. I know some people have used mills to cut the pockets from a big sheet but that's getting into another level of DIY then haha
Hot wire or long razor mite be faster but iv never tried that I normally just sand a little bit of old pad and put a little bit glue d on and then cut it off like you mine didn't work that good tho must of been bad for brake was to slipery
For your cronic neck pain (which i also do have) its due to your scapula (muscle wing anotomy)... If you retract your scapula your neck pain will relief and probably gone ... the problem is while riding I tend to close the scapula without realizing so it stiffs the muscles and also the neck, making a stiffness in the neck and inturuducing NECK PAIN horray!! however it can be solved by retracting the scapula XD At least it works for me... Learnt it with my P.T. which he didn't even knew that worked for neck pain due to riding a bike but made total sense because i do everything wrong XD
2.47: to make your two no-no’s clear, it could be helpful to impose a big red X over them. I think this would be clearer for your followers for whom English is not their first language and who might not have followed your voiceover too well. Btw, rather than bleed over your workshop, the National Blood Service is appealing for people with your blood group (and mine, as well) to donate as stocks of them are low.
@@YanDoroshenko Don’t just think, do! I’ve been a donor since 1965 and will give my 81st donation next month. It’s easy and beneficial to others. You hope you’ll never need a transfusion yourself, but if you did, you wouldn’t half be grateful to the donor! (End of recruitment drive!)
I’ve not noticed it makes any difference, the grooves are water channels and a ground rim effectively gives you hundreds of channels in the same pad contact meaning you don’t need them in the pad
if you want super advanced geometry you should consider Ben from Applied Science's method of cyrogenically cooling the rubber (can be as simple if you like uber sketchy as home made cyro napalm (i.e. acetone or isopropyl alcohol in dry ice) which enables him to machine it like it's plastic
Great video. I feel like the increased complexity and initial investment you in materials you highlighted at the start will help steer people who have no business making and using these away from it.
Hi, i would like to explain this without being asked to XD.The used Polyurethan is a Duroplast which hardens by a chemical reaction betwenn multiple components. Only Thermoplastic materials (which Polyurethan could also come in) can be melted while keeping their properties. Duroplasts will just "fail" when they get hot and loose their properties. Thermoplastic materials are probably not a good idea to use in brakes because...well...they melt when exposed to heat, which is caused by the friction against the rim.
If you do it regularly, best way to cut rubber is mini table saw machine. Its take a second, and minimum risk, if you take safety measure. Also, its cost ~100$. Less than your fingers
Should just add: these polyurethane pads are for the on/off action of trials riding and for that they are unbeatable but they don't like high temps so don't put them on your gravity racer people!
Pin worthy comment
@@Ali_Clarkson Cheers man, just thought I'd put it out there for any non trials watchers, thanks for the content it's excellent as always!
The same goes for CA glue in general, not for high heat.
@@littleshopofrandom685 makes sense if boiling water can separate pads from backings
Good thing I caught that part..)/* I had to stop watching you vivisect brand new pads anyway..( Would you glue rubber to rubber if you were making dh pads?)/* Be nice to your fingers bro and save some blood for the trails..)
Back in the day, we were running SD7 levers with Avid Ultimate or Shimano XTR brakes paired with selfmade pads that hada very special rubber - when road workers put down asphalt, there is a heavy roller machine that rolls it completely flat. That roller has a "cleaning" brim that runs along the length of the roller to wipe off the stuck particles on the roller. That SPECIFIC rubber made the best pads for us here in Estonia, the whole scene depended on having them. Nobody knows what was the exact compound but it sure did work well. I still have a pair of CA-glued pads in my dads house after 20+ years. Great video, loved it, good nostalgiatrip.
That's a cool story, it's funny how you sometimes stumble onto something that works well but you don't know much about why it works as well as it does :)
Roland sina või? :) Ma ise sain seda PU materjali Kimi käest trükikojast. Raaklikumm!
@@indrekpart277 mina jah!
When I was a kid I decided to make my own brake pads by molding hot glue. I lived on a big hill... the bike was screaming all the way down, and these awesome black meter-long rope-worms were streaming off the rim. Success!
Been using polyurethane since early 2000s in Russia as a brake pads. Great vid, mate.
Omg. This is such a coincidence. About am hour ago I saw a video of you mentioning the homemade pads. I search thru your channel's videos and didn't find anything related so I gave up.
And an hour later you post this... So grate!!
Thanks!
great timing :D
I never thought it would happen 😮
So glad you starting to feel a bit better Allie . I’m sure it’s hard spending this time of your bike 👍
yeah, it's been tough and I've been missing out on some great events :(
What happened?
@@sam_s_ the break pad manufacturer's monopolists mafia got to him! But we don't talk about it cause we don't want to get in trouble.
Thank you for revealing your secret. I'm a bike polo player, and we borrow a lot of tech from trials riding. Disc brakes have been king for a while, but we also prefer the on/off hard bit for bike polo. I'm going to experiment with this to see if bringing rim brakes back to polo might be popular!
I did it! Bought a A-1120 belt, cut a piece, glued it to a worn off V-brake (after cutting and sanding both) and it works like a charm.
Been using it in wet weather and snow and it definitely wears off less than the traditional brake pads. And it costs 4 bucks for like 15 pads!
I love it Ali. This is the 1st hack of this sort that I am totally going to do. Excellent video illustrating the progression of learning and finding better solutions. Thank you SIr. Cheers
Thanks a lot Mark :)
Finally!! I’ve been waiting for you to show us for years
I hope it was worth the wait :)
@@Ali_Clarkson I was hoping to be able to use it but since i ride mountain bike not trials I’m afraid I would generate too much heat braking and the pads would separate. I do have a 1990s GT karokoram that isn’t too dissimilar to your first trials bike… hmm
Have you tried using an ultrasonic knife for cutting the rubber? I think it might be the answer.
Just checked out your links and its exactly what I use!! I use the red 90A for the rear pads and the dark blue 90A for the front, it is weird how different the different colors feel even though they are both rated at 90A
Nah front brakes are always sharper because of the way the braking forces are distributed. Im sure if you swapped blue to back and red to front it would be an indescernable difference.
@@owenwilson3750 Yes I've tried them each way around and same color front and back, they defiantly feel different. The blue has slightly more bite but feels less precise, my rear brake has a booster made of 6160 and I like the rear wheel to be as solid as possible so I run the red there and the dark blue on the front which is a 4130 fork with no booster. I was pleased to see in this vid that Ali had also found the different colors with the same rating gave different performance and that it wasn't just me.
I really like the blue stuff in Vbrakes but the red seems to work better in hydraulic brakes for some reason...it's weird how materials can have little nuances like this
@@owenwilson3750 the added pigment has physical properties too so not very weird. Like black is usually added coal and makes a LOT of difference. For all the 90A they use the same base material when produced.
Hi, I'm your big fan. I think your TH-cam channel is the most useful for me. There is really everything needed for me. Technique, riding skills, bike builds... Just everything. Today I started making brake blocks for Magura brakes, exactly according to your instructions. I have CNC mounts the same as yours and a 20x20x500mm polyurethane block. I use a bench drill vise to cut extra tough polyurethane. I clamp a precision steel knife into it and cut it with a hydraulic press. And I also use a belt sander, of course. It works great. Now I hope it will brake well. 🙂👍 I am quite old (43) and a few months ago I bought my first trial bike. And I also bought one for my son and now we train hard together. Good luck!
Always wondered about this, thanks Ali! I always pictured some complicated process of melted rubber that you somehow formed into the pads.
Poliurethane is a two component mixture like epoxy resin. If you can somehow source the components, you can pour it into various shapes. Actually that's how they make engine mounts, shock absorbing bushings, flexibly shaft couplings and all that.
The downside is that you have to make a negative shape to pour into, and you most likely can't reuse it unless you are able to make a polished surface and use some non-stick coating.
These days 3D printing is accessible to print pouring forms. It's been a while since I used PU rods, I didn't realized that I could make my own PU parts now!
@@gabiold I did experiment with mixing and pouring my own pads (into a block rather than into a pad shaped mold) but it wasn't as good as pre-made stuff. Might be worth more testing though
My father did one pair of brake pads (rim brake, steel wire actuated) from truck wheel chunk two years ago
performed wonderful until the frame of that bike decided to give up... but these pads still in good conditions. I guess they are no longer suitable for braking without damaging a rim made of aluminum, because of galvanization process.
But hey, thats cool finding your video about that topic, is a interesting one! (and yes, this trick can save a lot of money and if you do it properly, could be even more safe than the pads you usually buy at a bike store!)
Nice! I don't ride trials anymore but 25 years ago I worked with the former owner 5.10 who worked with me to develop pads by putting additives and fiber to their Stealth rubber. I still have a couple of the "slumps" from the variations that we tried. The pads were amazing, but we never found an adhesive that would keep them firmly adhered to the aluminum backing.
Remember to not just apply the super glue to the pad material and backing, but also most of your fingers, the workbench, and anything else within close proximity.
Top tip 😅
Been waiting on this one a long time. Very informative Ali, thank you!
cheers! :)
A couple of suggestions for cutting the pads (no experience with this particular use case):
* Paper guillotine or a cleaver kitchen knife for the initial cut (sturdy blade with good leverage).
* Small C-clamps for better fixation.
Caveat on paper cutters - thicker material can be hard to secure, I've had stuff wander on me, sometimes under the blade. don't hold with your hand while cutting lest the block roll towards the blade with your hand on it. If you can't clamp it don't use a paper guillotine
@@robbiedevine8518 yeah, clamps are a must. I was rather thinking about cutting a prolonged bar. Long enough to make the leverage sufficient for hand to hold.
Awesome technical video! You really got all the details going on in here! Great work!
cheers :)
Wow I haven’t seen DX v-brakes for years, I had some on my first trials bike back in the mid 90’s!!
such classics :)
I never guessed you were gluing the material on. The first video of yours i stumbled across where you mentioned home made brake pads and any time I've seen them since, I some how got the idea you were casting the material on to the backer and then carving the excess away. Really cool to see how you actually do it!
Good stuff! Cutting a hole in the bottom of the plastic container, for your shop vac hose to fit in, then setting this up closely behind your sander, makes for an excellent dust collector. (The collector can easily be made using thick cardboard, scrap wood, or even an old metal bread loaf baking tin.)
YESS! FINALLY THE BRAKE PADS HACK! THX Ali
I totally understand why you have never shared this. some level boss knife skills required
This is cool. I'd like to see you test different materials and combos on every ride video until you find the perfect one.
That was a Class video Ali, This will be very Helpful for me in the future Thanks for showing us Ali !
Thank you :)
I've always thought you had to use molten rubber to get the pad material to match the backing. I never realised a CA glue butt joint would be strong enough!
yeah it blew my mind a bit to find out how strong CA glue can be...I have tried mixing my own polyurethane and pouring it into a block to be cut later but the end result wasn't as good as pre-made stuff
I suggest a Mitre box for straight cuts. There are small hobby ones that would suit this work. Cut with small coping saw or use the knife for what works best I reckon. Thanks for sharing Ali, I know I did ask you as well about this, great video!
Maybe the cutting could be made easier with one of those wire cutting tools that is used to cut Styrofoam. I imagine the heat might help a lot.
Polyurethane just ends up melting and making a big sticky mess :(
Any tips for winter / rain? Perhaps the compound should be closer to the 80s or lower?
Good idea for the tight areas would be a dremal and some sand sanding bits
Sadly one of polyurethanes main features is it’s abrasive resistance
Hi Ali! I've been searching for some materials to make some pads. Found some PU rubber in blue 85a harshness. What do you think?
Greetings from Spain
Sounds like a great option to try 👍🏻
The only note I would add is that sanding marks should go perpendicular to direction of braking force. It will keep the polyurethane adhered better
Thanks for this video! Whether or not I ever try doing this, it was really interesting to see how you do it.
I have heard of people using old tires for the brake pads if they want a closer to the original but more durable breaks.
A band saw with a fence seems like the perfect tool for cutting the stock to size quickly and safely, but I realize most people don't have a band saw as part of their available tools. Short of that, a wooden or plastic jig (something like a miter box) could be a good addition to your hacksaw and vice method to increase accuracy and minimize metal on metal contact dulling your blades.
Wow you finally did it! Seems like a good process and I have two things I thought of: I wonder if one of the handheld ratcheting shears normaly used for cutting pvc pipe would be good. I see some around even have a little mitre box so you can cut nice angles. Then, I thought of how about casting some pourable urethane resin? That would also allow for adding things like fiberglass/silica/carbon powders to play with the friction. Anyway, cool video as usual!
Very cool. Great video. Hope you feel better.
Thank you :)
Hey Ali. What’s happening with the bike build you started? Still waiting to see the paint colour you chose.
Ran into a hurdle with the decals (the ones I had broke when applying them) so I’m waiting on some new ones, hopefully not too much longer to wait
I don’t even have a trials bike but I still enjoy the videos 😀
I suggest trying a fine / high TPI razor saw or dovetail saw with a wide enough mitre box for the initial cuts. Stay away from those knife blades - one slip and you could easily slice through tendons and nerves and end your riding career. Or at least invest in some armoured cut-resistant gloves.
Your brake pads look good and I would ride them but making them is a high impact high probability risk. Stay safe enough, cheers!
This is like the holy grail of trials! Thanks for sharing 😀
no problem :)
Awesome Ali, good diy video!
Thank you :)
Might want to try using a router table for shaping the CNC pads
First, I hope your Pain gets better and you find ways to manage it in the future!
I´m really about that Video, it´s the one i waited so long! I just love doing diy Hacks on my Bikes as much as posible ^^
Thanks to your Channel Content I´m building my first Trial Bike (a Work in Progress)
I am no durometerologist, but as far as I know, durometer is a tool to measure hardness.
Road bikes with ocasionaly descending rides? Will it work?
No, these pads would probably melt, they’re specifically for trials use
@@Ali_Clarkson thanks for reply. I tought so, would never got any idea to use them but nice idea anyway. Just imagine riding down the mountain road and your brake pads melt while breaking at 70kmph 😬
Brilliant video, thanks Ali.
Not a trials rider, but I'll definitely be making some pads. If i can get to 90% performance of my favourites, but considerably less than 15quid a pair I'll be very happy
just be aware that this polyurethane isn't great at dealing with heat so on a normal bike dragging the brakes might not end well
@@Ali_Clarkson Cheers Ali, that's really great info. it will be on the rear brake on my commuter; so I just need short burts of powerful braking rather than long drags (I use my front for all the modulation etc)
Can't say anything about how these function, but they sure do look good.
شكرا لك علي على هذا الابداع شيء جيد يمكنك عمله في المنزل وتكلفة قليله
great tutorial! gotta live dangerous sometimes. a square would be helpful for the initial dimensioning. woodworking tools will be helpful also. thank you for sharing
Hey Ali is it possible to use pads with CNC aluminum backings for hydraulic rim brakes on a regular deore vbrake?
Yes, TNN make cnc backings for both magura and v brakes but I’m not sure if they’re still in business, I’ve not seen them for sale in a long time!
@@Ali_Clarkson Hello again Ali, thx for replying. I'm still a little confused. Doing some research I found out that there's the regular vbrake pads, the hydraulic rim "click" pads and the CNC backing pads. Do all of those work with normal deore vbrake arms? How do you physically mount them on the arm (I noticed that there's a hole in the CNC ones is it for the screw?)? Thx again, love your content
@@luizcarvalho4245 no they need to be specific v-brake versions which have the threaded rod like normal v-pads. As I said these are very rare now and I don’t think there are currently any trials brands making CNC v backings.
@@Ali_Clarkson oh, that sucks. So on a deore vbrake I'll have to go for the regular ones? Do they work as great (with custom made pads and grinded rims)? Thx one more time
@@Ali_Clarkson Wait what if I remove the rubber from a hydraulic rim brake pad (with the hole) with boiling water and somehow attach a screw to it?
Wondering why not use a thin material sheet (like 4mm), sand the pad just that same amount and glue it.
That would be a really good solution and I’m trying to think whether I’ve thought of that or not and if not why not 😂
Hi Ali, May be disk pads next.
now THAT would save money :P
@@Ali_Clarkson Would have to think about temps I have an e-bike canyon pathlite on 8 my friend.
Hello Ali, I have no idea if you look at comments on previous videos but the materials you used and said was your favourite isn't available anymore. Can you maybe update the link or give another one? I would really like to try and make my pads. Thanks a lot anyways
Try a fish filleting glove to save your fingers while making sketchy cuts!
hi ali im new here great video i have an electric bike with v brakes and always having to replace the pads would it be possible to use the same material for both front and back if so what was it you used again please
I wouldn’t recommend this to you unfortunately, this is very specific to trials riding and the material I’m using will just melt for any riding that generates heat.
@@Ali_Clarkson thank you for replying its a shame there isnt another video that shows you what you could use for electric bikes would be much cheaper to make your own pads that way
@@garrylee8355 it’d just be a case of experimenting with different rubbers but once you found one that worked it would be the same process as the video
@@Ali_Clarkson do you know where i would be able to get the different types of rubber from and than you for your help so far
At what temperature does your glue come undone, and how hot do your brakepads get?
Find out with an IR-temp gun.
Seems there is potential for scary downhill runs on somehting that isn't a trials bike.
Probably not much. I've seen cyanoacrilate glues advertised as high-temp, with 135 degC max. temperature.
But rim brakes are not ideal for downhill anyways, disc brake pad materials are so much better and provide way better and smoother modulation in hot/cold/wet/muddy conditions, while these are essentially on/off brakes for trials.
Try a junior hacksaw with a fine blade. I've found it works well on soft materials.
How about a video on how to make disc brake pads? Since there are several kinds of pads:
1. Organic (resin)
2. Metallic (sintered)
3. Kevlar
I am never replacing my dura-ace pads with the huge ears. :)))
I just wonder - wouldn't it be easier to get some PE filament and just print the pads? Might work with TPU too, dunno.
I only recently discovered printing in PU was a thing, would be interesting but computers aren’t my strong point so I don’t think I’m the man for the job
I tried it. In my experience they are not good, it seems thermoplastic poliurethane has poor mechanical properties compared to casting urethane. Anyway it could depend on 3d filament (brand, additives, etc). Try to find a local 3d print service, it cost to me 30€.
7:50 is your vice not bolted down?
It is but it swivels and I hadn’t locked it down after changing position when I had the belt sander in it
@@Ali_Clarkson ah, I did wonder. Mine does that too. Needs quite a bit if tightening before it will stay put.
Just got my own 2003 monty mod bike... might have a crack at this after the tnn pads die. Way better than a bmx bike!
For removing the excess you may find a Dremel to be a very handy tool.
I tried but honestly nothing works quite as well as a blade, polyurethanes strong points are it’s resistance to abrasives (why it makes a good trials pad) and tearing. This means trying to sand or cut it with hand tools is very tricky
I wonder how old car tire rubber would hold up as pads.
I feel like there is potential here for some kind of phase change material. Something with an ultra low melting point at first that hardens instantly. Im thinking something like glue that would grip instantly but then easily release from the rim.
Bro can you also make disc brake pads for bicycle
It's 11 at night and the auto parts stores are closed I was trying to find DIY brake pads for the car. I couldn't believe actually found one! I think I might give this a go on my girl's old Camry. After all, what's the worst that could happen
Dude..) I paused the vid to send a quick quip.. and you had a really funny face..) You're awesome, man..).. ok.. turning volume up..)/* no trip..)
Great video. Brings back memories.
Top one Ali
As an old school BMX rider I like the idea of homemade brake pads but I have a weird problem that I run V-brake pads on my U Brakes.... I've been doing it for a long time and I don't plan on stopping. LoL
Gotta say that I love this kind of diy content. Probably never using it..but good to know when I can't find proper vbrake pads.
I also wonder if ppl have modded their vbrakes to get better results like an XXL brake pad, or using 4 in stead of 2 brake pads. I used a mechanical disc brake for 2 weeks..but I always got annoyed by it's inconsistency, would always fade after idk 10-15 meters of braking
Probably using a chisel at some point would help.
Or using a cheap CNC machine like a 3018.
I have wondered about a razer sharp chisel, no idea how it would work being hammered into a rubber though, slicing seems to work better than impacts. I know some people have used mills to cut the pockets from a big sheet but that's getting into another level of DIY then haha
Have you considered pouring your own in a custom mold?
Yes I did a small experiment with this but it didn’t turn out great…it seemed like more effort than it was worth for small batch home made pads
Great vid. I’ll stick with Kool Stop on my old school hard tail XC though.
How are you getting along with that DJ bike? :O
Hot wire or long razor mite be faster but iv never tried that I normally just sand a little bit of old pad and put a little bit glue d on and then cut it off like you mine didn't work that good tho must of been bad for brake was to slipery
hot wire would just melt the polyurethane into a sticky mess, the sharp knife works super well but it comes at the risk of cutting yourself too
For your cronic neck pain (which i also do have) its due to your scapula (muscle wing anotomy)... If you retract your scapula your neck pain will relief and probably gone ... the problem is while riding I tend to close the scapula without realizing so it stiffs the muscles and also the neck, making a stiffness in the neck and inturuducing NECK PAIN horray!! however it can be solved by retracting the scapula XD At least it works for me... Learnt it with my P.T. which he didn't even knew that worked for neck pain due to riding a bike but made total sense because i do everything wrong XD
What durometer do you use for a smooth rim? Any chance you’ve got a link?
Great vid pal want to wear down some pads just to give it a go
That was a good video, very good.
Thank you :)
Its the same with skateboard truck bushings. The polyurethane can be the same on paper, but their real performance may vary a lot.
2.47: to make your two no-no’s clear, it could be helpful to impose a big red X over them. I think this would be clearer for your followers for whom English is not their first language and who might not have followed your voiceover too well. Btw, rather than bleed over your workshop, the National Blood Service is appealing for people with your blood group (and mine, as well) to donate as stocks of them are low.
Hi Ali-mom!
Hi, Jan, are you a blood donor?
@@dorothyclarkson772 I am not. I thought about it a couple of times but never actually got to it.
@@YanDoroshenko Don’t just think, do! I’ve been a donor since 1965 and will give my 81st donation next month. It’s easy and beneficial to others. You hope you’ll never need a transfusion yourself, but if you did, you wouldn’t half be grateful to the donor! (End of recruitment drive!)
I bet if you make a mold of the pad you could melt the PU without burning it and fill the mold with it and get perfect moulds each time
With this PU once melted it doesn’t solidify again :(
Ali, I wonder if using a hot wire would be a good way to cut pad material?
Unfortunately melting this material ends up making a big gloopy mess :(
Or could one use a hot glue gun to join the parts..
@@KHos73 that wouldn’t be as strong as the CA glue
From where we can get polyurethane pads
8:22 love that watch
Do you not replicate the grooves in the V-brake pads?
I’ve not noticed it makes any difference, the grooves are water channels and a ground rim effectively gives you hundreds of channels in the same pad contact meaning you don’t need them in the pad
if you want super advanced geometry you should consider Ben from Applied Science's method of cyrogenically cooling the rubber (can be as simple if you like uber sketchy as home made cyro napalm (i.e. acetone or isopropyl alcohol in dry ice) which enables him to machine it like it's plastic
Oi mate get back to work on that gravel build I need to see it finished!!
Very useful! Thanks Ali
great, now I can be the cool kid in the block selling pad
I've made mine too, with 90A red PU.
I cut it with Dremel, It is much easier
the 80a/pink 90a looks delicious......ijs
yeah, I really want that to work well but it doesn't seem to be as good as other choices
Great video. I feel like the increased complexity and initial investment you in materials you highlighted at the start will help steer people who have no business making and using these away from it.
Would it be easier to heat up the blade and cut the rubber that way Ali? 🤔 ........by the way, great hack 👍🏻
Nah heat doesn’t really do much good, a sharp knife and soapy water is hard to beat
@@Ali_Clarkson suppose you gotta stick to what works in the end, just out of curiosity have you tried the heated blade??? 👍🏻
@@johnster187 not the blade no but trust me if you see what hot metal does to polyurethane you wouldn’t want to do it 😂
Hi, i would like to explain this without being asked to XD.The used Polyurethan is a Duroplast which hardens by a chemical reaction betwenn multiple components. Only Thermoplastic materials (which Polyurethan could also come in) can be melted while keeping their properties. Duroplasts will just "fail" when they get hot and loose their properties. Thermoplastic materials are probably not a good idea to use in brakes because...well...they melt when exposed to heat, which is caused by the friction against the rim.
@@nilz6432 great comment! I had no idea why it went into a gloopy mess but now I do :)
If you do it regularly, best way to cut rubber is mini table saw machine. Its take a second, and minimum risk, if you take safety measure. Also, its cost ~100$. Less than your fingers
Are you from Balcan ?