Professor Calvin requires us to show our work! I have attended a few events where Calvin demonstrated Park Tools and had a repair tent. He was so generous with his time and encouraging for us to learn how to fix and maintain our bikes. I won a deluxe spoke wrench in his little raffle, it’s my favorite. He is sort of a living legend, and a great ambassador for Park tool and bicycling in general.
This summer, I made two 27.5-inch wheels by learning from your video. Front and rear wheels. It was my first time, but I was able to make it well. Thank you for the very easy-to-understand explanation. The rims were tubeless ready, so I made the tires tubeless as well. My bike has a 135mm rear end, so I can't find any finished wheels that can be put on 12 gears. However, Shimano sells 135mm hubs, so I made the wheels originally. Thanks, my Merida 3×8 hardtail is now 1×12. With that in mind, the front suspension has also been upgraded. Now I enjoy riding that bike very comfortably. I live in the suburbs of Tokyo, so I usually run along rice paddy roads instead of mountains. P.S. I received PCS-10.3 today. I'm thinking about how to put it in my small room.
Roger Musson's Professional Guide to Wheelbuilding. The only PDF I've ever bought in my life, and thoroughly worth it. Following it will hold your hand from zero to your first few sets of wheels.
Why not pay Calvin to teach you to build? Teach a man to fish, eat for a day, teach a man to build wheels, then he comes obsessed with optimizing his bike.
The worksheet is a fantastic idea! I've built plenty of wheels but have never been systematic about recording the measurements, that's going to change now! Thanks!
Others are already "ready made", for three cross, 29ers have spokes 295mm, 27.5 rims match with 275mm spokes, 700c wheels match 288mm spokes as long as its double wall
If you don't rely on manufacturers measurements you have the advantage of repeatability. When presented with different components you don't have to worry about the supplied measurements being measured differently. So measure yourself right from the start. Don't trust the manufacturer to know everything exactly.
Calvin is wise. If your lengths come out wrong, it's a product of your measurements. Different people measure slightly differently so they might need to build more than one wheel to really nail the lengths. I don't mean necessarily to measure differently or more carefully but just to see if you should round up or down your numbers to get better results. Or add a slight length correction to the spoke lengths before ordering.
Brilliant- i am about to do my CyTech wheel building next week - but wanted to get ahead (or more likely, to not fall behind in class!), this is just sooooo well explained. Great Video Calvin👏
I just made all my entries & will still have an expert double check my spoke length requirements. Be interesting just to see how well or badly I did. :)
Thank you, I am building my first wheel and I was wondering if I could just get the average length of the spokes. then each will only be 1mm off. You answered my question, thankyou.
I personnaly use my own spoke length calculator that I made from an Excel file, mainly with Sinus, Cosinus and square root of X2+Y2+Z2 + some others considerations but I can tell after aving seen other videos that this one is THE BEST, congrates. P.S. I also use 2D or 3D AutoCAD files for double checking eventually.
This is perfect timing. I just bought a wreck for $10 that has a 3 speed gear hub and had a rear rim in pieces. Old enough I can’t just use the dt swiss calculator.
A lot of spoke calculators don't ask for offset and give me different numbers than the numbers I got from spoke calc. I went with the spoke calc numbers and pulled the trigger. We'll see how they lace up. Had to rely on the manufacturer ERD since I didn't have any spokes around. It's a cheap wheel so hopefully I'll be ok.
I read somewhere that Calvin's mustache quivers when he's making a mistake before he even realizes he has made one. That's a primary reason he is so good at what he does. Like the hairs on our backs standing up if danger is approaching.
Thanks for another helpful video. Clear, concise and no fluff. Can you tell me will the same measurements apply for a fat bike wheel? The spoke holes have quite a bit of offset which makes me ask.
Fat bike spoke calculations are a bit different. The offset at the rim should be divided by 2 and then added to each side of the center to flange dimension.
I've learned so much from these Park Tool videos. I now have a respoked non-differential wheel after following your instructions. The only area I was unsure of was the flange to center distance. For my wheel, I measured the flange to flange distance and divided measurement in half. Are your measurements due to the rim being differential? Kindest regards and much appreciation.
The needed measurements are from flange to hub center. Flange to flange does not get this. Measure hub width where it contacts the frame. Divide that by 2, for the middle of the hub as it sits in the frame. Now measure from hub end one flange. Subtract that from the number of 1/2 hub width. That is then Flange-to-hub-Center. Repeat on the other side.
In the spoke calculator it is asking me for width between holes in the rim section. It is not there in your video. I have calculated spoke length successfully before with this calculator and do not recall this measurement. It there a setting in the calculator so something I am missing?
Two very important points left out of this video are: 1. Under tension rims compress and spokes stretch. Many (all?) calculators do not take this into account and so you might want a shorter spoke than calculated. Running out of threads when building can damage nipples and make the whole experience sour. Nipple washers can be used sometimes as a workaround if the error is small. On high tension wheels like rear+drive side it is very important to get it right, and that's also the place where most lengths come out wrong too (more compression/stretch). This problem is aggravated when using lightweight spokes. So depending on the weight of the spoke and the tension that's going to used, it could need a larger final length correction. 2. ERD might be a standard in the industry but sadly it's often measured differently. The best is to measure yourself with the nipples you intend to use. AND ensure that the calculator doesn't assume otherwise, meaning it should not make corrections based on the nipple choice. You don't want to account for the nipples twice or not at all.
Roger Musson's calculator takes spoke stretch into account. The spoke lengths I get from his calculator are shorter than what I get from, say, the DT Swiss calculator
Hi Calvin, I'm from Brazil. In a non-symmetrical rim, when measuring the difference from the center of the rim to the center of the hole, do I take into account the hole that is closest to the center of the rim or the hole that is furthest away? I participated in the wheels course at Escola Parktool Brasil and received your certificate. 😃
Just an FYI SpokeCalc will not accept smaller wheels (i.e. 16" trailer wheels). It returns an input error on the ERD field. The UBI tool linked in the ParkTool website article that accompanies this video worked just fine. In my case I am building a 16" BoB trailer wheel with a 36h Shimano Alfine Generator hub (70mm flange dia.) so the spoke length is ludicrously short. (111mm)
El tío Calvin siempre dando cátedra. ¿What about making a video about those rims called G2 or G3 or those kind of rear hubs with 14 spoke holes on drive side while just 7 of them in non-drive side?
Hi Calvin, Great video! My rear hub measured at 298 and my front hub at 300. Will the 298 suffice for the front hub so I can buy just one box of spokes? Thank you!
What role would the nipple length play in building wheels where the differential lengths were at 3 mm? Could one use alternating 2.0x12mm & 2.0x14mm while using the same length spoke?
Good question. Nipple length does not matter for the best length. The end of spoke should be above the rim-to-nipple contact point. The 14mm or 16mm nipples extend below the rim. The nipples are identical above that point, so spoke length determination does not change.
Differential spokes gives the best thread engagement on each side. Yes, it can work well for 3X, or 1X, or 2X. Only needed where the hub flanges have different offsets.
Great tutorial! On some recumbent trikes the rear section frame is built asymmetrical. So instead of centering the rim between the locknuts it is centered between the hub flanges. How would that be calculated.
In that case, the center-to-flanage would be the same for left and right side. Measure flange to flange. Divide by 2. That is the Flange-to-center measurement for that wheel.
Nicely done and explained! Please forgive my any mistakes on the use of english :P According to the front and rear hubs manufacturer's specs i came up to the following using spokecalc: front left spokes 253,8 mm / right 255,23 mm and rear left spokes 253,87 mm / right 253,81 mm. So which length should i choose for both rims? Will an average of 256 mm be enough? Or should i buy the respective lengths? Thank you very much in advance and cheers for Calvin :):):)
@@jybuys unfortunately i couldn't manage the wheels myself so sent hubs spokes nipples and rims to a bike shop who told me that on one side i need 259. he did all again from the beginning and now i have my wheels done ready to go be mounted
Great video,thanks, planning my first wheel build. I picked rim,hub, style spoke , what is the correct nipple ? So i should order hub, rim ,nipples measure ERD then order spokes? Do you have a service that would look at chooses made and approve them ? Thank you
The spokecalc website asks for "lateral width between holes" in the hub measurements. That is not shown here on this vid. Why not? How to measure that too??
Some rims are sold with washers. Generally if no washers were supplied, you no not need them. On single walled rim especially the washer will distribute the stress.
Your rule of thumb of differential spoke lacing with 1mm go longer, 2mm average them, 3mm buy different spokes, does that apply to smaller diameter rims? i.e. bmx rear wheels.
If there is minimal offset you can leave that number at zero. If they are offset quite a bit then the manufacturer will often give that number in the specs or you can measure best possible.
Hey there,i have a question, I'm building a pair of wheels but my front wheel on the left length according to you video show 293 mm but i found it on 294 or 292 mm... it's really imperative to use 293mm or can I use 294mm for example? My first Spokes choose are sapim d light (2mm length increase) and the second are dt swiss competition (1mm length increase). I'll building a trail bike on 29 rims . Thanks for you help, greetings from Chile!
@@parktool thanks for your time and I'm going to star the building process and when i done i contact again. I'm really appreciate your time and knowledge. Thanks for your help 😉
Is there anything inherently wrong with widening the hub holes by 1mm tops 1.5mm? See, I had ordinary spokes on my new bike which kept breaking. Fed up with it I decided to re-lace both wheels and the stronger spokes I have are slightly thicker. So a little help here folks, is there anything wrong with widening the hub holes?
You've covered the length of the spokes extensively, but i've not seen any videos that mention the thickness of the spokes. Is it a matter of preference? Would all spoke thickness and respective nipple sizes fit through the wheel rim? If that's the cause would say a 12G spoke provide a stronger wheel than a 14G at expense of being heavier? Thanks
The larger diameter spokes are of course stronger but that does not mean a stronger wheel. The weak point of the system is most always the rim. A thicker spoke will take more stress cycles, but again the rim is taking the impacts and stress of riding. The "gauge" system for spokes is antiquated and misleading. There are different diameters in the "American Wire" and "British Wire" gauge systems. Gauges are a system of electrical resistance for electrical wire. For bicycle spokes, it is best to give just the diameter. "12G" is 2.63mm. 14G is consider at 2mm spokes.
That uses a Straight Pull hub, with only 8 spokes. Use the same calculator but look for the Straight Pull mode, not the J-bend. These hubs are very difficult to measure for head insertion in the flange. It is best to use the manufacturer's specifications.
@@parktool I'm lacing up a huge hub motor. The best method is a 1 x with elbows out as far as I know. Any other patterns run the risk of entering the nipple hole at a weird angle
I have the wheel, nice and true. Even spoke tension. Broken 4 spokes in 4500 miles. Want to rebuild track rear with new spokes of 270mm as measured on Park spoke ruler. Having trouble getting any. Built many wheels in my day but everybody just wants to sell the more profitable wheel set. Online shops just assume nobody can measure an existing wheel's spoke length and Lbs is out! Maybe calculate cross 3 or even 4. Just like a game of bingo.
That is something we are working on. Straight pull hubs are difficult to measure. See Spokecalc.io for the concept when using straight pull. DT Swiss offers a data base for their hubs.
Update: The spokecalc has added a hole to hole dimension on the rim that has fixed the calculator for me. My fat bike rims were always getting wrong numbers and it's because the calculator didn't know how far from center the holes in the rim were, and on fat bikes, that can be pretty long. I put offset at 0 and input the hole to hole dimension in that slot on the calc and it put me 1mm away from where I ended up with my spoke length through trial and error.
What is this measurement asking for? Is this distance between each hole on the rim? If so, how do you measure that given the arc of the rim? It's described as "lateral width"?? Not distance between. Is that the same as offset??
@@jonnyminer4915 It's a measurement across the width of the wheel, not down the arc. If the rim is 60mm wide, and the hole centers are 25mm from the outside edges of the rim, then 60-25-25=10, so there's a 10mm width between the holes. Offset is different. That says whether the rim is symmetrical or not. A symmetrical rim can still have a staggered hole pattern with holes that are off center, but they will be equally distant from center on each side. If the holes aren't equally distant from the center, and are all shifted further in one direction, then you have an offset.
4:53 bill mould thinks a little different, for him , ideal spoke length is when last thread cut deep into nipples thread, to prevent spoke to break on thread, what is really rare situation, spokes break on elbow in 99%, so i know(not think) that good spoke length is what you said +/- 2mm, i made wheels on customer demand with spokes that were connected with nipples on 5-6 threads and wheel survived
No, it is not. Consider it where you want the spoke END to end. A tall nipple will need effectively a longer spoke. Or adding a washer under a nipple, assuming you want the spoke to end flush with the nipple.
Professor Calvin requires us to show our work!
I have attended a few events where Calvin demonstrated Park Tools and had a repair tent. He was so generous with his time and encouraging for us to learn how to fix and maintain our bikes. I won a deluxe spoke wrench in his little raffle, it’s my favorite.
He is sort of a living legend, and a great ambassador for Park tool and bicycling in general.
This summer, I made two 27.5-inch wheels by learning from your video. Front and rear wheels. It was my first time, but I was able to make it well. Thank you for the very easy-to-understand explanation. The rims were tubeless ready, so I made the tires tubeless as well. My bike has a 135mm rear end, so I can't find any finished wheels that can be put on 12 gears. However, Shimano sells 135mm hubs, so I made the wheels originally. Thanks, my Merida 3×8 hardtail is now 1×12. With that in mind, the front suspension has also been upgraded. Now I enjoy riding that bike very comfortably. I live in the suburbs of Tokyo, so I usually run along rice paddy roads instead of mountains.
P.S.
I received PCS-10.3 today. I'm thinking about how to put it in my small room.
Не забувайте ставити лайки, відео саме найкраще на світі! Нехай у всіх все складеться! Дякую авторам!
Roger Musson's Professional Guide to Wheelbuilding. The only PDF I've ever bought in my life, and thoroughly worth it. Following it will hold your hand from zero to your first few sets of wheels.
He did a great job, but he got a bit windy. I wrote a one page, front side only, wheel building how-to, and used it to teach others. Same result.
All the ParkTool videos are the best anywhere. Visuals are so important and you guys are the gold standard.
I would happily pay Calvin to build me a set of wheels just for the bragging rights! "Why yes, my wheels were built by Calvin from Park Tool!" 😁👍
Why not pay Calvin to teach you to build? Teach a man to fish, eat for a day, teach a man to build wheels, then he comes obsessed with optimizing his bike.
The worksheet is a fantastic idea! I've built plenty of wheels but have never been systematic about recording the measurements, that's going to change now! Thanks!
I love these parktool videos it's like learning bicycle mechanics from Fank Zappa 🎸
😂
Thanks Park Tool company! Love your tools as well as your videos! Happy cycling!
17 min video with Calvin. Is it my birthday?
Yes finally!! I actually needed this
We all needed to hear this from Calvin Jones Himself.
I'm building a IGH (internal gear hub) wheel set for rear, a dynamo wheel set for front. This video helps me to figure out a lot. Thank you so much!
I’m planning on doing the same thing!
Thanks to this video I was able to find out what spokes does my carbon road rims needed easily. Thank you so much!😁
This chap explains things so well 👍
Great video, this is really the hard part about building a wheel, in my opinion.
Others are already "ready made", for three cross, 29ers have spokes 295mm, 27.5 rims match with 275mm spokes, 700c wheels match 288mm spokes as long as its double wall
If you don't rely on manufacturers measurements you have the advantage of repeatability. When presented with different components you don't have to worry about the supplied measurements being measured differently. So measure yourself right from the start. Don't trust the manufacturer to know everything exactly.
Hey C., You rock! Thankyou for sharing your knowledge.
Calvin, a very good explanation. Thank you
So clear and concise. Thank you.
Park Tool vids are the best!
Calvin is wise. If your lengths come out wrong, it's a product of your measurements. Different people measure slightly differently so they might need to build more than one wheel to really nail the lengths. I don't mean necessarily to measure differently or more carefully but just to see if you should round up or down your numbers to get better results. Or add a slight length correction to the spoke lengths before ordering.
Brilliant- i am about to do my CyTech wheel building next week - but wanted to get ahead (or more likely, to not fall behind in class!), this is just sooooo well explained. Great Video Calvin👏
Fantastic video! The best explanation I’ve seen on this topic! Great resource as I build. Thx!!
Outstandingly clear - congratulations!
Another great video Calvin. You're the best at making things easy to follow. You always bestow great confidence in me :)
Great explanation and very well detailed too, thanks!
Oh man oh Man you are a wizard on this. Thank you 🙏
you guys are the best! you make bike repair so easy and fun 👍
thank you for all the hard work! 🍻
I just made all my entries & will still have an expert double check my spoke length requirements. Be interesting just to see how well or badly I did. :)
The most important think to remember is, however you measure, you will be wrong.
Thank you, I am building my first wheel and I was wondering if I could just get the average length of the spokes. then each will only be 1mm off. You answered my question, thankyou.
I personnaly use my own spoke length calculator that I made from an Excel file, mainly with Sinus, Cosinus and square root of X2+Y2+Z2 + some others considerations but I can tell after aving seen other videos that this one is THE BEST, congrates.
P.S. I also use 2D or 3D AutoCAD files for double checking eventually.
This is perfect timing. I just bought a wreck for $10 that has a 3 speed gear hub and had a rear rim in pieces. Old enough I can’t just use the dt swiss calculator.
A lot of spoke calculators don't ask for offset and give me different numbers than the numbers I got from spoke calc. I went with the spoke calc numbers and pulled the trigger. We'll see how they lace up. Had to rely on the manufacturer ERD since I didn't have any spokes around. It's a cheap wheel so hopefully I'll be ok.
I read somewhere that Calvin's mustache quivers when he's making a mistake before he even realizes he has made one. That's a primary reason he is so good at what he does. Like the hairs on our backs standing up if danger is approaching.
Nice. Concise. I've been doing this for years and it's nice to see it all in one place explained nicely. Aloha!
I love your music, my favourite being Overnite Sensation, but I have even more mad respect for you now that you're building bikes. :)
I see what you did there..... I saw him play one once on TV (Steve Allen Show) but I don't know if he built it too ;)
Thanks for simplify this so even I can understand
Great video. Thank you!
I'm about to build my first set of wheels this is super helpful
Great teacher !
Ive a lot of older hubs/rims fiamme suntour phil wood etc this helped a lot
yes. i was about to upgrade my 26er wheel set and build a 27 wheel set
Thank you park tool. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Love from INDIA...🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳
❤️❤️❤️❤️
Thanks for another helpful video. Clear, concise and no fluff.
Can you tell me will the same measurements apply for a fat bike wheel? The spoke holes have quite a bit of offset which makes me ask.
Fat bike spoke calculations are a bit different. The offset at the rim should be divided by 2 and then added to each side of the center to flange dimension.
@@parktool Thanks just saw this. But added or subtracted. I have been reading that measurement should be subtracted from each flange measurement.
excellent thank you
I've learned so much from these Park Tool videos. I now have a respoked non-differential wheel after following your instructions. The only area I was unsure of was the flange to center distance. For my wheel, I measured the flange to flange distance and divided measurement in half. Are your measurements due to the rim being differential? Kindest regards and much appreciation.
The needed measurements are from flange to hub center. Flange to flange does not get this. Measure hub width where it contacts the frame. Divide that by 2, for the middle of the hub as it sits in the frame. Now measure from hub end one flange. Subtract that from the number of 1/2 hub width. That is then Flange-to-hub-Center. Repeat on the other side.
OK, now I understand better the procedure if not the theory. Thank you for the explanation.@@parktool
Best video ever ❤❤❤❤ very profesional
This makes doing a suspension overhaul look easy.
He wants five measurements. Lots of filler to keep the viewer from straying.
great video
Brilliant !
In the spoke calculator it is asking me for width between holes in the rim section. It is not there in your video. I have calculated spoke length successfully before with this calculator and do not recall this measurement. It there a setting in the calculator so something I am missing?
Challenging ? That's an understatement.
Two very important points left out of this video are:
1. Under tension rims compress and spokes stretch. Many (all?) calculators do not take this into account and so you might want a shorter spoke than calculated. Running out of threads when building can damage nipples and make the whole experience sour. Nipple washers can be used sometimes as a workaround if the error is small. On high tension wheels like rear+drive side it is very important to get it right, and that's also the place where most lengths come out wrong too (more compression/stretch). This problem is aggravated when using lightweight spokes. So depending on the weight of the spoke and the tension that's going to used, it could need a larger final length correction.
2. ERD might be a standard in the industry but sadly it's often measured differently. The best is to measure yourself with the nipples you intend to use. AND ensure that the calculator doesn't assume otherwise, meaning it should not make corrections based on the nipple choice. You don't want to account for the nipples twice or not at all.
Roger Musson's calculator takes spoke stretch into account. The spoke lengths I get from his calculator are shorter than what I get from, say, the DT Swiss calculator
Would it be beneficial to just buy a wheel set? If you don’t want to go through all of this time making your own wheel set
Hi Calvin, I'm from Brazil. In a non-symmetrical rim, when measuring the difference from the center of the rim to the center of the hole, do I take into account the hole that is closest to the center of the rim or the hole that is furthest away? I participated in the wheels course at Escola Parktool Brasil and received your certificate. 😃
In theory you can measure both, then average them. However, the stagger from hole to hole is small, and will not make any significant difference.
Just an FYI
SpokeCalc will not accept smaller wheels (i.e. 16" trailer wheels). It returns an input error on the ERD field.
The UBI tool linked in the ParkTool website article that accompanies this video worked just fine.
In my case I am building a 16" BoB trailer wheel with a 36h Shimano Alfine Generator hub (70mm flange dia.) so the spoke length is ludicrously short. (111mm)
El tío Calvin siempre dando cátedra. ¿What about making a video about those rims called G2 or G3 or those kind of rear hubs with 14 spoke holes on drive side while just 7 of them in non-drive side?
Hi Calvin, Great video! My rear hub measured at 298 and my front hub at 300. Will the 298 suffice for the front hub so I can buy just one box of spokes? Thank you!
Suffice. Yes.
Ideal. No
Less engagement up front with 298, but also less stress. I will work.
What role would the nipple length play in building wheels where the differential lengths were at 3 mm? Could one use alternating 2.0x12mm & 2.0x14mm while using the same length spoke?
Good question. Nipple length does not matter for the best length. The end of spoke should be above the rim-to-nipple contact point. The 14mm or 16mm nipples extend below the rim. The nipples are identical above that point, so spoke length determination does not change.
the longer the spoke less the stress we put on it.....this decrease the rip of spoke....so the more secure you are....what do you think Calvin???
Would you use differential spoking for some of the spokes in the 3-cross pattern as well?
Differential spokes gives the best thread engagement on each side. Yes, it can work well for 3X, or 1X, or 2X. Only needed where the hub flanges have different offsets.
Imaging doing all this math by hand before the internet!
Great tutorial! On some recumbent trikes the rear section frame is built asymmetrical. So instead of centering the rim between the locknuts it is centered between the hub flanges. How would that be calculated.
In that case, the center-to-flanage would be the same for left and right side. Measure flange to flange. Divide by 2. That is the Flange-to-center measurement for that wheel.
Nicely done and explained! Please forgive my any mistakes on the use of english :P
According to the front and rear hubs manufacturer's specs i came up to the following
using spokecalc:
front left spokes 253,8 mm / right 255,23 mm and
rear left spokes 253,87 mm / right 253,81 mm.
So which length should i choose for both rims? Will an average of 256 mm be enough?
Or should i buy the respective lengths?
Thank you very much in advance and cheers for Calvin :):):)
Why not use 255?
@@jybuys unfortunately i couldn't manage the wheels myself so sent hubs spokes nipples and rims to a bike shop who told me that on one side i need 259.
he did all again from the beginning and now i have my wheels done ready to go be mounted
Just perfect
Ini bagus. sebagai informasi tambahan. 👍
Does anyone else just watch for his awesome moustache? Asking for a friend.
Great video,thanks, planning my first wheel build. I picked rim,hub, style spoke , what is the correct nipple ? So i should order hub, rim ,nipples measure ERD then order spokes? Do you have a service that would look at chooses made and approve them ? Thank you
When you select the spoke the nipples should be shown as compatible with that spoke. We recommend 14mm brass nipples for most builds.
For measuring rim ERD, why is it recommended to measure at a spoke hole that's away from the valve hole?
That is an old habit. On some older rims, there is an internal seam. The ERD would be different at this point. You don't see that type of rim anymore.
This is some top quality content 🙌
Thank you sar🇧🇩
The spokecalc website asks for "lateral width between holes" in the hub measurements. That is not shown here on this vid. Why not? How to measure that too??
When do we need to use the nipple washer and when not?
Some rims are sold with washers. Generally if no washers were supplied, you no not need them. On single walled rim especially the washer will distribute the stress.
@@parktool thanks!
Are you freakin kidding me. I was going to try this but not now. I need a beer!
un video de maestro,una buena empresa
good day sir what if,,my rims is 26 in size what is the compatible spokes, thanks
Damn you're good GJ!!!!!
I use the OG spoke calculator: Pythagoras and the Law of Cosines
Respect!
You mean this?
Spoke Length = sqrt[ (RRSP - (HSR * cos(SAA)))^2 + HFO^2 - (HSR * cos(SAA))^2 ]
@@bob-ny6kn That’s probably what the online calculator is doing behind your back! Nice.
@@michaelhoste_ well, that little S.O.B.! (spoke optimis/zing background)
good
Your rule of thumb of differential spoke lacing with 1mm go longer, 2mm average them, 3mm buy different spokes, does that apply to smaller diameter rims? i.e. bmx rear wheels.
Yes , it does. BMX wheels typically use hubs with very similar flange-to-center dimensions. It rare to see one build with differential spoking.
sir how i calculate width between holes? There is an option on online spoke calculator=> rear wheel => rim=> WIDTH BETWEEN HOLES.🤔
If there is minimal offset you can leave that number at zero. If they are offset quite a bit then the manufacturer will often give that number in the specs or you can measure best possible.
Hey there,i have a question, I'm building a pair of wheels but my front wheel on the left length according to you video show 293 mm but i found it on 294 or 292 mm... it's really imperative to use 293mm or can I use 294mm for example? My first Spokes choose are sapim d light (2mm length increase) and the second are dt swiss competition (1mm length increase).
I'll building a trail bike on 29 rims
.
Thanks for you help, greetings from Chile!
Typically you will want to go longer if you are faced with a situation like this. So, you will be looking at the 294's. Cheers!
@@parktool thanks for your reply. Last question , if I followed all the instructions on the video, the length spoke results are 100% accurated?
@@CesarAGUGT Thats the goal.
@@parktool thanks for your time and I'm going to star the building process and when i done i contact again. I'm really appreciate your time and knowledge. Thanks for your help 😉
Can I just measure the spoke if I'm just replacing a spoke and not have to go through all this trouble
Is there anything inherently wrong with widening the hub holes by 1mm tops 1.5mm?
See, I had ordinary spokes on my new bike which kept breaking. Fed up with it I decided to re-lace both wheels and the stronger spokes I have are slightly thicker. So a little help here folks, is there anything wrong with widening the hub holes?
Can someone tell me what's the use of this complicated contraption with old spokes and calipers ? Why not use a simple string instead ?
You've covered the length of the spokes extensively, but i've not seen any videos that mention the thickness of the spokes. Is it a matter of preference? Would all spoke thickness and respective nipple sizes fit through the wheel rim? If that's the cause would say a 12G spoke provide a stronger wheel than a 14G at expense of being heavier? Thanks
The larger diameter spokes are of course stronger but that does not mean a stronger wheel. The weak point of the system is most always the rim. A thicker spoke will take more stress cycles, but again the rim is taking the impacts and stress of riding.
The "gauge" system for spokes is antiquated and misleading. There are different diameters in the "American Wire" and "British Wire" gauge systems. Gauges are a system of electrical resistance for electrical wire. For bicycle spokes, it is best to give just the diameter. "12G" is 2.63mm. 14G is consider at 2mm spokes.
@@parktool Thank you. Appreciate the quick reply
How to determine the flange diameter with the square body (Fulcrum racing 500 DB) thank you
That uses a Straight Pull hub, with only 8 spokes. Use the same calculator but look for the Straight Pull mode, not the J-bend. These hubs are very difficult to measure for head insertion in the flange. It is best to use the manufacturer's specifications.
Which Cross pattern should I use if I don't care about weight but want extreme durability for lots of weight?
3X is the most common
@@parktool I'm lacing up a huge hub motor. The best method is a 1 x with elbows out as far as I know. Any other patterns run the risk of entering the nipple hole at a weird angle
I have the wheel, nice and true. Even spoke tension. Broken 4 spokes in 4500 miles. Want to rebuild track rear with new spokes of 270mm as measured on Park spoke ruler. Having trouble getting any. Built many wheels in my day but everybody just wants to sell the more profitable wheel set. Online shops just assume nobody can measure an existing wheel's spoke length and Lbs is out! Maybe calculate cross 3 or even 4. Just like a game of bingo.
It would be interesting to talk about calculating straight pull hubs measurements.
That is something we are working on. Straight pull hubs are difficult to measure. See Spokecalc.io for the concept when using straight pull. DT Swiss offers a data base for their hubs.
@@parktool 🤞
Update: The spokecalc has added a hole to hole dimension on the rim that has fixed the calculator for me. My fat bike rims were always getting wrong numbers and it's because the calculator didn't know how far from center the holes in the rim were, and on fat bikes, that can be pretty long. I put offset at 0 and input the hole to hole dimension in that slot on the calc and it put me 1mm away from where I ended up with my spoke length through trial and error.
You can also divide the offset at the rim in two and minus that number from each side's center to flange.
What is this measurement asking for? Is this distance between each hole on the rim? If so, how do you measure that given the arc of the rim? It's described as "lateral width"?? Not distance between. Is that the same as offset??
@@jonnyminer4915 It's a measurement across the width of the wheel, not down the arc. If the rim is 60mm wide, and the hole centers are 25mm from the outside edges of the rim, then 60-25-25=10, so there's a 10mm width between the holes.
Offset is different. That says whether the rim is symmetrical or not. A symmetrical rim can still have a staggered hole pattern with holes that are off center, but they will be equally distant from center on each side. If the holes aren't equally distant from the center, and are all shifted further in one direction, then you have an offset.
i got a park tool ad before this vid lol
4:53 bill mould thinks a little different, for him , ideal spoke length is when last thread cut deep into nipples thread, to prevent spoke to break on thread, what is really rare situation, spokes break on elbow in 99%, so i know(not think) that good spoke length is what you said +/- 2mm, i made wheels on customer demand with spokes that were connected with nipples on 5-6 threads and wheel survived
English subtitles, please. Thanks!
I haven't looked before, but there must be some online calculator for this.
Yes, see the details on that video description for one option. There are several around.
Is it important to know what length the spoke nipples are when measuring ERD? I’m in a tail spin about getting done correctly!!
No, it is not. Consider it where you want the spoke END to end. A tall nipple will need effectively a longer spoke. Or adding a washer under a nipple, assuming you want the spoke to end flush with the nipple.
Can I use analogue calipers too? would save me a lot of money.
Yes. Those are probably Vernier calipers and can be read to 1/10th millimeter.
Need help for my novatec hub 36holes.what spokes size should i buy.i had 29er stout rims
You will need to measure the hub. Find the rim on-line for the ERD.