What a GODSEND! Found this video on the 11th hour when I was about to take my wheel to the LBS to have them do it. Followed your instructions to a tee. I didn't rush it (which I normally do) per your advice My wheel came out PERFECT! I trued my first wheel for the first time in my life at 60. This is HUGE! You took the mystery out of it. It's not the "dark arts" I thought it was. Now I'm hooked! THANK YOU!!! Like/Subscribe/Bell
I followed Ali's guide when I was building my own wheels. It helped loads Ali really knows his stuff. The fact you get this level of advice for free is insane!
I watched a lot of truing videos after re-lacing my rear wheel on my road bike. I couldn't get it off centered. I started over 3 times in a row, snapped a spoke, rounded out a dozen nipples, etc, etc. Then I came across your video. I went out to the garage one more time, loosened everything back up to where threads were showing, then followed this video step by step. It was so much easier. I didn't even need the tension gauge. After getting it near perfect both laterally and radially, it was still not off-center (was rubbing on the frame). The dishing the wheel section, where you talked about loosening up one side, as the other side would pull it over from it's tension did the trick. After doing this for a few rounds, I got it off-centered enough and perfectly trued. I spent over 4 days worth of evenings messing with this wheel, and this video did the trick! Thanks so much!!!!!
Well, Algorithm, I didn’t think I’d be watching this as I can’t imagine I would ever build a wheel (why would I, when I could just ask Ali to do it for me?), but I watched it all the way through because I found it interesting.
This video is out of this stratosphere!! I can't believe how well explained and passionate you are. Truly, I feel so privileged knowing this lifetime lesson! Thank you!!
the quality of the truing stand is the most important thing? i'm sooo jealous of how stiff your stand is.. you can literally push and pull the wheel as much as you want and you can rapidly detect the bumps.. i have to be soo delicate or else the whole stand wobbles and ruins my ability to detect the rubbing points.
I learned to build bicycle wheels, then got a job at a motorcycle shop and built about five hundred motorcycle wheels there. That tuning fork method is a crucial and easy way to find balance without a fancy tool.
Wow - I never even thought about correcting "the egg" until I saw this video! I usually true the wheel on the bike but I'll now take the tyre off to check for roundness! Great video tutorial!
Sound tips Ali. Only thing I can add is my lazy boy technique for removing the twist… a bit like your stamping, I prop the wheel up against a wall at apx 45* and push the hub with my foot repeatedly for two laps on each side *ping*. Saves the auld wrists and elbows a bit. Keep up the hard work lad. ✌️👍
Just put a replacement rim on an e-bike hub motor - for a first proper go without a truing stand I have to say - this has helped a tonne and my bike's gonna ride way nicer for it... I found out that if you back the nipples off until they're jumping threads, then thread back on with a set number of turns (I used 2 to start the thread then 2 turns for a couple of rotations until the tension started to build), you will have a much easier job getting the rim to sit central to the hub, resulting in less work when you adjust for the egg of the rim. I only really had to do a couple minor tweaks (about 1/4 to 1/8th of a turn per nipple) to get the rim almost dead-nuts on
The second stressing procedure @ 29:35 you can also do by mounting on the tyre+tube, then pump it up to maximum allowed pressure. Does all the stressing, without any muscling!
While watching I wondered, when truing (Initially and again after stressing) , whether it would be important to keep even tension, by only ever tightening spokes. I imagine that when you tighten one but loosen the opposide spoke, you could actually loosen below the ideal tension . I would have suppposed only tightening would be the preferred method. But, you perfectly answered by question!! You said to always loosen opposed spokes to true an area, or else if you tighten only, you could run out of tightness! 28:02 Thanks !!
Built my son a new rear for his DJ yesterday using your videos. Not my first build ever but maybe my most accomplished one?!. Plus I learned a lot of “why” that had been absent in many videos I’d watched previously. Thanks a ton.
thankyou, this is by far the best build explanation i have come across. One arm on the truing stand is really helpful, a reminder to periodically adjust dish during the process. I used the spoke crossing stamping technique on a wheel set i made [using only lateral stressing & spoke squeeze] that went out of true badly , and since have only needed a very minor touch-up. However i take issue with the spoke stretch thing , there is by definition actual elongation under tension & no doubt mechanical engineering has equations to quantify this . Also, when rotating & in use, the upper spokes are under increased tension , lower ones under less tension so elasticity is a huge factor in cushioning loading & maintaining adequate tension on the periodically de-tensioned spokes and modifying metal fatigue.
Man that was really exciting!!! In all seriousness I learned a hell of a lot about tensioning a wheel! I’ve been curious about doing this for quite some time thank you very much!!.
I like gleaming silver spokes. Car polish the spokes before assembly and some wax will stay on the threads. Your 2nd building video was the best I've ever seen. 0x,1x,2x,3x,4x. It is my reference. Wheels lasting longer recently.
The lacing video and this is the best one on yt. This safed my butt, as I received spokes that were too long and had to go to 4 cross. Using my frame as a guide I got a BMX wheel super straight and tight. Thanks!
Brilliant video - really liked the clear explanations. The only thing I am a bit cautious about is the stamping the spoke technique - but this may be because I weigh about 115kg!!!
My stressing method is the Musson method of parallel spoke squeezing. Another thing I always do is during lacing I hand bend the spoke at the j-bend so it has the proper angle thus precluding the need to rubber mallet them down. Also I use plucking to set tension. 700hz is my sweet spot.. Everyone has their own way which I think is awesome.
Excellent video Ali. I really liked seeing how you stressed the rim. I have never used that much force. I have a better understanding of how to build a better wheel now!
Thanks for the great wheel videos! I've been building my wheels ever since I saw your videos. Used to suffer through brokens spokes from full wheelsets. Haven't broken a single spoke since I started building my own! Great instruction, I'll take a handmade wheel over a machine built one any day.
Thank you, Im starting a bike hobby and have a few almost NOS vintage bikes, but the wheels need truing. You explaine very well. Im saving this video..
Wow, this video has been sitting in my 'Watch later' for a while - I just got to watching this now, during a lunch. It's a pleasure to see how you handle equipment, and all the hints you give are invaluable, all in a very concise but easy to follow presenting style. I learn a lot from you!
Just watched this and your wheel build tutorial from 4 years ago. Used the knowledge to rebuild my wheels to a new hub. Looks to be a success at this point. Thank you for your videos mate, made a daunting task quite simple, still tedious tho. One thing i found a huge help was putting some coloured tape over the valve hole to help locate it easily.
Great video Ali, it was really well explained. I have built many over the years and was taught by a couple different chaps at the same workplace. Everyone has some slightly different ways of doing things. Your stressing is, as you say, extreme: I wouldn't want to do it on anything old or weenie and pushing the hub end on the floor whilst pushing opposite rim sizes has always done me well. The soft tool twist on the spokes is a great tip and something I hadn't ever seen before. Keep up the great work.
Absolutly helpful,i just dished my rear wheel cause i went from single speed to an 8 cog pinion.tensioned the pinion side and loosened the non driving side and then went by ear on tension and was pretty much spot on.for the final trueing used the rim brakes as reference and corrected what was needed.
Thought I had all my tools laid out for this, but nope. Gotta go grab a wrench, a mallet, and a... shoe? Thanks as always, Ali, for the amazing tutorial. I learned how to trackstand from you, and now I'm building a replacement wheel for my CX bike. :-D
nice work ali...i already know how to built a wheel but ur make it so much entertaining that i have to watch it till the end...love your foot-style-stressing...im doing it the same way..love to hear the pings^^ ive tryed to find something you may have forgot but cant find anything...godlike work...well done...now im waiting for the rinding video with over 600 engagementpoints :)
Instead of a adjustable wrench I use old drum sticks. I build quite some 20" wheels and they fit pretty good between those tighter angles. Still standing on all of my wheels for pre-stressing as your vid was one of the ones I watched when I just started building
This Tutorial is worldclass!! I have a suggestion for a future Video! Could you Lance a Road wheel with 2:1 ratio and maybe show the calculation for the spokelenght? Best regards and keep this content coming. Sub 4 sure
Thanks so much Ali, I just finished the first video doing the 3 cross method as advised by Ben at Tarty Bikes and followed it up with this final trueing and stressing video. I had not built a wheel before and now I have, I am pretty happy with the tensions and I spent quite a while being certain that I got the straightness and egg as good as possible. If you have a preferred inbox, I would love to send you an image of the wheel jig I ended up with. Between the initial stages of building the wheel to its now complete stage I basically built a jig from a set of carbon Echo forks I no longer use and using fasteners in the rim brake mounts with spokes, I have an adjustable egg tester and the nipple end with nipple installed makes a great straightening adjuster because threads are quite fine.
Nice vid, i've built like 10 wheels after seeing you first video way back with the same stamping and getting the most important thing right, the hub logo in the spoke hole :D. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Ali for your great wheel building videos. I've followed your older tutorial for a number of wheels that I built and I have yet to have an issue with any of them after riding them for many thousand kilometers (I am also using the Lightbicycle hoops)!!!
Possibly the best wheel building tutorial I’ve ever watched! Thanks! Q though - you didn’t explain why you need to lube the threads. What happens if you don’t?
Thank you! Lubing the threads allows for higher tension because it reduces friction in the threads but it also stops the nipple and spike seizing and makes them much easier to work on in the future 👍🏻
Thanks @@Ali_Clarkson for taking the time to reply :) Like many here I was gobsmacked by your technique for stressing the wheel! I’d never have dared to stand on the spokes like that 😬 I’ve also recently bought Light Bicycle carbon rims and I was being very cautious about over tightening. The previous aluminium rims I’m replacing had split at the spoke holes. Of course I don’t want to ruin my new rims before I’ve even used them, but clearly they withstand a higher load than the 120-130kgf loading mention in the Light Bicycle tensioning table. Or am I not thinking about this in the right way?
@@andygoodwin no problem, I can’t always reply to every comment but I do when I can. I know the feeling of not quite trusting carbon and high tensions at first, I was the same but the way I see it is that if the rim can cope with my full weight bouncing on just two spokes then it shouldn’t have any problems what so ever with the tension when tightened normally
Nice one Ali. I've built 5 wheels now from your fist video on it and they're all still strong and true. I only had to tweek one once and even that was such a small adjustment to not really need doing.
If you want some adapters, just use some headset top caps. You can probably fit a couple of inexpensive seatpost QRs by unthreading the lever/cam and using a short M6 bolt instead.
I watched your first video on wheel building. Yout taught me how to build wheels, and to this day as I work in a bike shop every wheel that I build is built using your method. However, theres been a couple of carbon rims that scare me to death, they gave me insane levels of stress while tensioning the spokes. Ali, tell me the thruth, what would break first? the spoke or the rim wall?
Thanks for the video Good to see I am on the right track with my Light Bicycle wheel build! I have a dishing tool and would recommend one if you build wheels more than occasionally. However, I don't think I will destress my more delicate wheels with your technique. I am building with a triplet lacing (2:1 ratio) for the first time which should be a challenge for me.
Just built my first wheel! The eggness is out by a mile but it is on the bike and being ridden! I guess this will stress it but it will have to come off. It was an £9.99 rim from sjs cycles, might try a better rim next time? Video very useful.
I built a set dry and half the spokes came very loose after a few miles. I'm sure there was something else contributing but it was a fun ride home to fix it and a fun learning experience. Now I use WheelSmith spoke prep sometimes or lube like Ali and I've tried a specific type of LocTite recommended in some other tutorial. I'm afraid they will be fused later though. Like most things, there are many different ways and it's fun to experiment. I'm about to tension a fresh set of Light Bicycle rims with CX Rays and White Industries hubs. Bling.
Hi sir very good video ,been building wheels for years but your tips and techniques are amazing.Just a question ,is it prudent while stress relieving to just put moderate pressure with foot on spokes at first to see and get the feel of the wheel.Then when I get brave start to jump up and down. I think I under estimate just how strong the wheel really is ,afraid of making a taco out it.Again superbe video can’t wait to use your techniques on my next build.
Fantastic videos you´ve done and how you review and explain highly detailed every single stuff. I have a question about a spoke tension meter tool you work with. How do you know the calibration is still working out well ? I mean the measurements its been showed could be not acurate at all. Every single rim manufacture talks about the maximun spoke tension you should fix to the rim and i´m a real beginer in buiilding a wheel, in fact ,a build a no one wheel indeed yet. Thank you so much in advance for reading me and for answering if you consider it.
Thank you :) As for the tool, yes I’ve no idea of the calibration is right so I don’t use it for guiding the tightness, only that they are all even. I can’t say I’ve ever looked at what max tension a rim manufacturer recommends, in the 15 years building I’ve only ever had one catastrophic failure and that was a hub flange that was built extremely light with as much material removed as possible, other than that I’ve never had any issues from over tensioning
Very interesting and well explained tutorial, and this raises a question for me now: if you had to build a wheel with a hub that's already been used and is therefore already dented would you use those dents again or build it swapping the spokes heads/shoulders around? I'm just done lacing a wheel but now that I saw your tutorial I'll be waiting for an answer before I put tension in it! Cheers! :)
I've never used any oil. I understand that it might make buildig the wheel easier but using Sapim Polyax spokes, this won't really be necessarry as they have a nice coating, that makes turning them quite easy. I also don't use normal nipples but the Polyax Double Square ones. This way you won't have to use a spokey and truing the wheel is much quicker and easier on the hands. It also leaves the outer side of the nipple untouched, making them look as new.
mate, you are a legend, learnt so much, best vid on tensioning. +1 don't keep tensioning 1 side, I completely snapped a nipple doing this now I cant get it out because the thread is too far in and cant use a flat head to unscrew it the other end :(, will one of those nipple driver tools help get it out?
Glad the videos help! No a nipple driver won’t really help get that out, you have two options…either loosen all the other spokes so the stripped one is easier to turn or simply cut out that spoke and replace it
so I have just upsized a 700c bike from 35mm to 2.1" and it's gonna fit but I have a dish and egg issue. Stock dead straight 2005 model year TREK 7300fx Disc.. takes a Happy Medium 2.1" in the rear so far... swapping the front fork anyhow haven't even tried the OEM one.. looks identical triangle to the last 29er XC Xcaliber8 I had from 2020
Great video. Came here from the rim swap video. Question for you about stressing the wheel. Since my hubs and spokes are used (going with new, colored nipples), is it necessary to do the first stressing to dent the hub flange?
Thank you :) no, stressing isn’t as important (like you mention, the work is already done by denting the hub) but you to need to still flex the wheel to unwind any spokes that may have twisted 👍🏻
I'm riding sometimes hard, bikeparks or some jumps with hard landings, every month i see a slightly loose spokes in the rear wheel I'm trying to tighten them, just to keep straight tension (if the wheel is +/-1mm (1 milimiter) it's fine for me, right? equal tension is more important than .1 truiness ) I was thinking, if Parktool tensiometer would be useful for me or should I just look if the wheels is fairly straight/round in my frame and spokes not too loose (By sound or by touching them)
Nice vid, thanx! I am in the process of getting the wreck I bought for 20,- to a decent bike for my son. How about balancing the wheel when the tires are on? Is that a thing or is it negligible?
I’ve heard some riders/mechanics do that and maybe for road riding it’s a good idea but for anything off-road your wheel gets unbalanced the moment you ride through any mud 😂
Hey! Great video. Is there any way you can help me determine what spoke size I need to upgrade my road wheels to a deeper rim? I have the hub spec sheet and rim depth.
What a GODSEND! Found this video on the 11th hour when I was about to take my wheel to the LBS to have them do it. Followed your instructions to a tee. I didn't rush it (which I normally do) per your advice My wheel came out PERFECT! I trued my first wheel for the first time in my life at 60. This is HUGE! You took the mystery out of it. It's not the "dark arts" I thought it was. Now I'm hooked! THANK YOU!!! Like/Subscribe/Bell
I followed Ali's guide when I was building my own wheels. It helped loads Ali really knows his stuff. The fact you get this level of advice for free is insane!
The first few are free to get you hooked and then BAM! Paywall 😉
@@Ali_Clarkson My 26inch ebike wheel tension is at 22 with tyre on, is that about right? Thanks
@@Ali_Clarkson And that´s the way it has to be. Congrats for your vids. Very useful and calm voice.
I watched a lot of truing videos after re-lacing my rear wheel on my road bike. I couldn't get it off centered. I started over 3 times in a row, snapped a spoke, rounded out a dozen nipples, etc, etc. Then I came across your video. I went out to the garage one more time, loosened everything back up to where threads were showing, then followed this video step by step. It was so much easier. I didn't even need the tension gauge. After getting it near perfect both laterally and radially, it was still not off-center (was rubbing on the frame). The dishing the wheel section, where you talked about loosening up one side, as the other side would pull it over from it's tension did the trick. After doing this for a few rounds, I got it off-centered enough and perfectly trued. I spent over 4 days worth of evenings messing with this wheel, and this video did the trick! Thanks so much!!!!!
I love this! It may not be a viral video but knowing it’s helping people is way more satisfying :)
This is wheely going to be good, so spoked to check it out, the channel is the hub of trials 😀
This video stressed me out, the tension whilst filming was high but I didn’t buckle and stayed tru to my vision.
Shakespeare
@@policies8534 I did not even know it
Punbelievable🤦🏼♂️
Well, Algorithm, I didn’t think I’d be watching this as I can’t imagine I would ever build a wheel (why would I, when I could just ask Ali to do it for me?), but I watched it all the way through because I found it interesting.
Thanks Mum!
@@Ali_Clarkson classic :)
This video is out of this stratosphere!! I can't believe how well explained and passionate you are. Truly, I feel so privileged knowing this lifetime lesson! Thank you!!
the quality of the truing stand is the most important thing? i'm sooo jealous of how stiff your stand is.. you can literally push and pull the wheel as much as you want and you can rapidly detect the bumps.. i have to be soo delicate or else the whole stand wobbles and ruins my ability to detect the rubbing points.
Easily the most easy to understand wheel building video on the web,absolutely superb
Thank you, I’m glad you found it useful 😊
I learned to build bicycle wheels, then got a job at a motorcycle shop and built about five hundred motorcycle wheels there. That tuning fork method is a crucial and easy way to find balance without a fancy tool.
Motorbike wheels must take some amount of pre-stressing haha!
Wow - I never even thought about correcting "the egg" until I saw this video! I usually true the wheel on the bike but I'll now take the tyre off to check for roundness! Great video tutorial!
Sound tips Ali.
Only thing I can add is my lazy boy technique for removing the twist… a bit like your stamping, I prop the wheel up against a wall at apx 45* and push the hub with my foot repeatedly for two laps on each side *ping*.
Saves the auld wrists and elbows a bit.
Keep up the hard work lad. ✌️👍
Excellent point I never realized at 13:36. Swap the the wheel to determine which side needs to move 👌
Just put a replacement rim on an e-bike hub motor - for a first proper go without a truing stand I have to say - this has helped a tonne and my bike's gonna ride way nicer for it...
I found out that if you back the nipples off until they're jumping threads, then thread back on with a set number of turns (I used 2 to start the thread then 2 turns for a couple of rotations until the tension started to build), you will have a much easier job getting the rim to sit central to the hub, resulting in less work when you adjust for the egg of the rim. I only really had to do a couple minor tweaks (about 1/4 to 1/8th of a turn per nipple) to get the rim almost dead-nuts on
The best video on wheel truing with simple methods!
The second stressing procedure @ 29:35 you can also do by mounting on the tyre+tube, then pump it up to maximum allowed pressure. Does all the stressing, without any muscling!
Al,s wheel building videos are by far he best, Watched dozens of other guys and always thought were was to much editing.
Hey Mr Ali, try zip tying a piece of chalk to your truing arm.
Instant visual marks on the rim where it touches
While watching I wondered, when truing (Initially and again after stressing) , whether it would be important to keep even tension, by only ever tightening spokes. I imagine that when you tighten one but loosen the opposide spoke, you could actually loosen below the ideal tension . I would have suppposed only tightening would be the preferred method.
But, you perfectly answered by question!!
You said to always loosen opposed spokes to true an area, or else if you tighten only, you could run out of tightness!
28:02
Thanks !!
I wish the mechanics in my local shops did their job as good as this guy, thumbs up bro
Built my son a new rear for his DJ yesterday using your videos. Not my first build ever but maybe my most accomplished one?!. Plus I learned a lot of “why” that had been absent in many videos I’d watched previously. Thanks a ton.
thankyou, this is by far the best build explanation i have come across. One arm on the truing stand is really helpful, a reminder to periodically adjust dish during the process. I used the spoke crossing stamping technique on a wheel set i made [using only lateral stressing & spoke squeeze] that went out of true badly , and since have only needed a very minor touch-up. However i take issue with the spoke stretch thing , there is by definition actual elongation under tension & no doubt mechanical engineering has equations to quantify this . Also, when rotating & in use, the upper spokes are under increased tension , lower ones under less tension so elasticity is a huge factor in cushioning loading & maintaining adequate tension on the periodically de-tensioned spokes and modifying metal fatigue.
watch your first vid on wheek building still use your techniques to this day .. this is a good update
Man that was really exciting!!! In all seriousness I learned a hell of a lot about tensioning a wheel! I’ve been curious about doing this for quite some time thank you very much!!.
Great stuff Mike, let me know how your build goes when you do it :)
I like gleaming silver spokes. Car polish the spokes before assembly and some wax will stay on the threads. Your 2nd building video was the best I've ever seen. 0x,1x,2x,3x,4x. It is my reference. Wheels lasting longer recently.
Thank You so much. Very detailled explanation. Newer thought that there are so many steps to consider... So what I´ve learned: It takes time... :)
The lacing video and this is the best one on yt. This safed my butt, as I received spokes that were too long and had to go to 4 cross. Using my frame as a guide I got a BMX wheel super straight and tight. Thanks!
Best video out there for building wheels
Hit a stump - ruined a rim. Your videos helped me to build a new one. Thanks
MANY THANKS ALI-THE BEST TRU-ING VIDEO YET!(watched more than a few)AND THE TOOL TIPS,INVALUABLE !CHAPEAU !!
Brilliant video - really liked the clear explanations. The only thing I am a bit cautious about is the stamping the spoke technique - but this may be because I weigh about 115kg!!!
This is a great video! Especially the stressing part, this is exactly how I build my wheels
My stressing method is the Musson method of parallel spoke squeezing. Another thing I always do is during lacing I hand bend the spoke at the j-bend so it has the proper angle thus precluding the need to rubber mallet them down. Also I use plucking to set tension. 700hz is my sweet spot.. Everyone has their own way which I think is awesome.
By far one of the best bike wheel tutorials that I've found. Helped me build my wheel. Now going onto the thension part.
Excellent video Ali. I really liked seeing how you stressed the rim. I have never used that much force. I have a better understanding of how to build a better wheel now!
Thanks for the great wheel videos! I've been building my wheels ever since I saw your videos. Used to suffer through brokens spokes from full wheelsets. Haven't broken a single spoke since I started building my own! Great instruction, I'll take a handmade wheel over a machine built one any day.
Quality video lad. I was thinking about buying a whole new wheel as my rim was broken, but after seeing this video will have a go myself. Goods tips….
Thank you, Im starting a bike hobby and have a few almost NOS vintage bikes, but the wheels need truing. You explaine very well. Im saving this video..
Many Thanks !! Off to tension / stress my wheel that I have just laced. You are a superstar Ali.
Wow, this video has been sitting in my 'Watch later' for a while - I just got to watching this now, during a lunch. It's a pleasure to see how you handle equipment, and all the hints you give are invaluable, all in a very concise but easy to follow presenting style. I learn a lot from you!
Well since I’m building my dirt jump wheel this weekend I gotta say this was very useful
Sounded like jingle bells when the rubber mallet came out. Thank you for this knowledge really useful 👍
Just watched this and your wheel build tutorial from 4 years ago. Used the knowledge to rebuild my wheels to a new hub. Looks to be a success at this point. Thank you for your videos mate, made a daunting task quite simple, still tedious tho. One thing i found a huge help was putting some coloured tape over the valve hole to help locate it easily.
You are trully amazing. I have much more confidence to build my own whells. Thank you so much! You are a star!!!
Fantastic advice and technique, watched the entire video. 👍
Great video Ali, it was really well explained.
I have built many over the years and was taught by a couple different chaps at the same workplace. Everyone has some slightly different ways of doing things. Your stressing is, as you say, extreme: I wouldn't want to do it on anything old or weenie and pushing the hub end on the floor whilst pushing opposite rim sizes has always done me well.
The soft tool twist on the spokes is a great tip and something I hadn't ever seen before.
Keep up the great work.
this is exactly what i was looking for. Now would you be able to give some tips on carbon wheels and also direct pull spokes?
I’ve never actually built straight pull wheels!
Dude! Incredible! Thanks so much for this!
Absolutly helpful,i just dished my rear wheel cause i went from single speed to an 8 cog pinion.tensioned the pinion side and loosened the non driving side and then went by ear on tension and was pretty much spot on.for the final trueing used the rim brakes as reference and corrected what was needed.
I had missed this and your last video because TH-cam decided I don’t need notifications anymore 🤨
Least I have 2 in a row to watch now 👍
Wonderful, thanks so much. Answer every question I had about tension and adjustment. 😎
Thought I had all my tools laid out for this, but nope. Gotta go grab a wrench, a mallet, and a... shoe?
Thanks as always, Ali, for the amazing tutorial. I learned how to trackstand from you, and now I'm building a replacement wheel for my CX bike. :-D
nice work ali...i already know how to built a wheel but ur make it so much entertaining that i have to watch it till the end...love your foot-style-stressing...im doing it the same way..love to hear the pings^^
ive tryed to find something you may have forgot but cant find anything...godlike work...well done...now im waiting for the rinding video with over 600 engagementpoints :)
Really pleased it was still entertaining enough to watch through and you couldn’t find any faults, this pleases me!
Instead of a adjustable wrench I use old drum sticks. I build quite some 20" wheels and they fit pretty good between those tighter angles. Still standing on all of my wheels for pre-stressing as your vid was one of the ones I watched when I just started building
Thank you very much from Ukraine, amazing video. A lot of gold information and experience)
What a true craftsman you are. Top video.
plz make a vid on all d tools a wheel repair may require .. esp very badly bent rims ❤️❤️❤️
Awesome video! Super thorough! I’ve been toying with the idea of building my own wheels so this was super helpful!
Thank you, let me know how your build goes when you eventually do it 👍🏻
Such great videos. I've built a few wheels using your old tutorial and they all built up to be very strong. Thanks for these 💪🏻
This Tutorial is worldclass!! I have a suggestion for a future Video! Could you Lance a Road wheel with 2:1 ratio and maybe show the calculation for the spokelenght? Best regards and keep this content coming. Sub 4 sure
I also use a tension meter to equalize the tension on crosses where one spoke is overtightened and the other is not tight.
Thanks so much Ali, I just finished the first video doing the 3 cross method as advised by Ben at Tarty Bikes and followed it up with this final trueing and stressing video. I had not built a wheel before and now I have, I am pretty happy with the tensions and I spent quite a while being certain that I got the straightness and egg as good as possible. If you have a preferred inbox, I would love to send you an image of the wheel jig I ended up with. Between the initial stages of building the wheel to its now complete stage I basically built a jig from a set of carbon Echo forks I no longer use and using fasteners in the rim brake mounts with spokes, I have an adjustable egg tester and the nipple end with nipple installed makes a great straightening adjuster because threads are quite fine.
Nice vid, i've built like 10 wheels after seeing you first video way back with the same stamping and getting the most important thing right, the hub logo in the spoke hole :D. Thanks for sharing
Best one I’ve seen. Simple.
Awesome video Ali and that Hub sounds naughty.
Excellent tips! Thank you! I learned so much! I thought I knew enough but nope. Subscribed.
Thanks Ali for your great wheel building videos. I've followed your older tutorial for a number of wheels that I built and I have yet to have an issue with any of them after riding them for many thousand kilometers (I am also using the Lightbicycle hoops)!!!
That’s great to hear! 😁
Possibly the best wheel building tutorial I’ve ever watched! Thanks!
Q though - you didn’t explain why you need to lube the threads. What happens if you don’t?
Thank you! Lubing the threads allows for higher tension because it reduces friction in the threads but it also stops the nipple and spike seizing and makes them much easier to work on in the future 👍🏻
Thanks @@Ali_Clarkson for taking the time to reply :)
Like many here I was gobsmacked by your technique for stressing the wheel! I’d never have dared to stand on the spokes like that 😬
I’ve also recently bought Light Bicycle carbon rims and I was being very cautious about over tightening. The previous aluminium rims I’m replacing had split at the spoke holes. Of course I don’t want to ruin my new rims before I’ve even used them, but clearly they withstand a higher load than the 120-130kgf loading mention in the Light Bicycle tensioning table.
Or am I not thinking about this in the right way?
@@andygoodwin no problem, I can’t always reply to every comment but I do when I can.
I know the feeling of not quite trusting carbon and high tensions at first, I was the same but the way I see it is that if the rim can cope with my full weight bouncing on just two spokes then it shouldn’t have any problems what so ever with the tension when tightened normally
Nice one Ali.
I've built 5 wheels now from your fist video on it and they're all still strong and true. I only had to tweek one once and even that was such a small adjustment to not really need doing.
This explains a lot, thanks Ali, hopefully my next wheel will go smoother, but watching at almost 4am makes me want to go build a wheel haha
You have motivated me to build my wheels this week! Thanks for the straight forwards tutorial. Cheers
Awsome video. Your wheel build videos are the gold standard. I have used your videos to build all my wheels. Thanks!
Such a good teacher omg. Thanks Ali
I don’t even need any wheels building but good content and very interesting as always.
If you want some adapters, just use some headset top caps. You can probably fit a couple of inexpensive seatpost QRs by unthreading the lever/cam and using a short M6 bolt instead.
I watched your first video on wheel building. Yout taught me how to build wheels, and to this day as I work in a bike shop every wheel that I build is built using your method. However, theres been a couple of carbon rims that scare me to death, they gave me insane levels of stress while tensioning the spokes. Ali, tell me the thruth, what would break first? the spoke or the rim wall?
Thanks for the video Good to see I am on the right track with my Light Bicycle wheel build! I have a dishing tool and would recommend one if you build wheels more than occasionally. However, I don't think I will destress my more delicate wheels with your technique. I am building with a triplet lacing (2:1 ratio) for the first time which should be a challenge for me.
Really REALLY useful and great presentation - thank you
Do a video on lacing a 2 cross e bike wheel
Any links for the axle adapter thing that you said about at the begining at 3:34?
Just built my first wheel! The eggness is out by a mile but it is on the bike and being ridden! I guess this will stress it but it will have to come off. It was an £9.99 rim from sjs cycles, might try a better rim next time? Video very useful.
I built a set dry and half the spokes came very loose after a few miles. I'm sure there was something else contributing but it was a fun ride home to fix it and a fun learning experience. Now I use WheelSmith spoke prep sometimes or lube like Ali and I've tried a specific type of LocTite recommended in some other tutorial. I'm afraid they will be fused later though. Like most things, there are many different ways and it's fun to experiment. I'm about to tension a fresh set of Light Bicycle rims with CX Rays and White Industries hubs. Bling.
Hi sir very good video ,been building wheels for years but your tips and techniques are amazing.Just a question ,is it prudent while stress relieving to just put moderate pressure with foot on spokes at first to see and get the feel of the wheel.Then when I get brave start to jump up and down. I think I under estimate just how strong the wheel really is ,afraid of making a taco out it.Again superbe video can’t wait to use your techniques on my next build.
I need this, thank you for providing such in depth information :)
Fantastic videos you´ve done and how you review and explain highly detailed every single stuff. I have a question about a spoke tension meter tool you work with. How do you know the calibration is still working out well ? I mean the measurements its been showed could be not acurate at all. Every single rim manufacture talks about the maximun spoke tension you should fix to the rim and i´m a real beginer in buiilding a wheel, in fact ,a build a no one wheel indeed yet. Thank you so much in advance for reading me and for answering if you consider it.
Thank you :)
As for the tool, yes I’ve no idea of the calibration is right so I don’t use it for guiding the tightness, only that they are all even. I can’t say I’ve ever looked at what max tension a rim manufacturer recommends, in the 15 years building I’ve only ever had one catastrophic failure and that was a hub flange that was built extremely light with as much material removed as possible, other than that I’ve never had any issues from over tensioning
@@Ali_Clarkson thank you so much for your quick answer and for the confidence you give. I really appreciate it.
Very interesting and well explained tutorial, and this raises a question for me now: if you had to build a wheel with a hub that's already been used and is therefore already dented would you use those dents again or build it swapping the spokes heads/shoulders around? I'm just done lacing a wheel but now that I saw your tutorial I'll be waiting for an answer before I put tension in it! Cheers! :)
This video is just sooo helpful!!! Thank Ali!
I've never used any oil. I understand that it might make buildig the wheel easier but using Sapim Polyax spokes, this won't really be necessarry as they have a nice coating, that makes turning them quite easy. I also don't use normal nipples but the Polyax Double Square ones. This way you won't have to use a spokey and truing the wheel is much quicker and easier on the hands. It also leaves the outer side of the nipple untouched, making them look as new.
I would like to know what range of tension is ideal to maintain to. Thanks!
Huge knowledge on your channel. Thanks for sharing !
mate, you are a legend, learnt so much, best vid on tensioning. +1 don't keep tensioning 1 side, I completely snapped a nipple doing this now I cant get it out because the thread is too far in and cant use a flat head to unscrew it the other end :(, will one of those nipple driver tools help get it out?
Glad the videos help!
No a nipple driver won’t really help get that out, you have two options…either loosen all the other spokes so the stripped one is easier to turn or simply cut out that spoke and replace it
Well done mate...great viddy
so I have just upsized a 700c bike from 35mm to 2.1" and it's gonna fit but I have a dish and egg issue. Stock dead straight 2005 model year TREK 7300fx Disc.. takes a Happy Medium 2.1" in the rear so far... swapping the front fork anyhow haven't even tried the OEM one.. looks identical triangle to the last 29er XC Xcaliber8 I had from 2020
Hi, I want to start riding trial but dont know what bike to get. I would love some tips if you have any.
P.S. Love your channel
Great video. Came here from the rim swap video. Question for you about stressing the wheel. Since my hubs and spokes are used (going with new, colored nipples), is it necessary to do the first stressing to dent the hub flange?
Thank you :) no, stressing isn’t as important (like you mention, the work is already done by denting the hub) but you to need to still flex the wheel to unwind any spokes that may have twisted 👍🏻
I'm riding sometimes hard, bikeparks or some jumps with hard landings, every month i see a slightly loose spokes in the rear wheel
I'm trying to tighten them, just to keep straight tension (if the wheel is +/-1mm (1 milimiter) it's fine for me, right? equal tension is more important than .1 truiness )
I was thinking, if Parktool tensiometer would be useful for me
or should I just look if the wheels is fairly straight/round in my frame and spokes not too loose (By sound or by touching them)
Great tutorial!
Thanks Patrik!
Thanks for e guide. But I was wondering what is length should I buy for e spokes and how to measure?
Nice vid, thanx! I am in the process of getting the wreck I bought for 20,- to a decent bike for my son. How about balancing the wheel when the tires are on? Is that a thing or is it negligible?
I’ve heard some riders/mechanics do that and maybe for road riding it’s a good idea but for anything off-road your wheel gets unbalanced the moment you ride through any mud 😂
Hey! Great video. Is there any way you can help me determine what spoke size I need to upgrade my road wheels to a deeper rim? I have the hub spec sheet and rim depth.
Thanks Ali! Really cool stuff ❤