VERY good "How to..." video. Excellent visuals but I was particularly impressed with the commentary. Clear, simple to understand and inspiring - made you feel like anyone could do this. Very well done. Just subscribed.
Tried the job today. I could not get the gaitor ring to move. I used different size chisels but gave up as i felt the metal ring would be irreparably damaged and I need to keep my LR mobile.. Ordered a new prop this afternoon
Great video, yes the boot spare would be good. But wouldn't it have been better for LR to design it so it didn't fail after a mere 124k miles, I mean come on. Of course then we would have nothing to do but drive it!
Hey Sam.......the full workshop manual say to use new torx bolts when refitting.... I hardly ever see new bolts used when torqued...... what are yours or anyones thoughts on always using new bolts for torqued jobs?... regards.....dave
Excellent video. Does this also hold true for the Range Rover Sport L320/2009, 3.6 TDV8 prop shaft? I had exactly the same problem, damaged center bearing and disintegrated doughnut bush and bracket.
Would juddering at low speed be this problem or when I'm going up a hill in low gear starts to judder if I put my foot down it will go away any help appreciated thanks guys
Would love to no the reply to this. 270 odd quid for a new prop shaft with bearing bolts everything. And can be done in 1 hour max. Or the labour cost plus 40/50 quid for just a centre bearing? Hmmm doesn’t seam worth doing just the bearing. 🤦🏻♂️
Great video thank you! I’m working on replacing mine with your guidance right now! Do you know the torque specs for the e12 and e14 torx screws by any chance?
Hi, on this vehicle the universal joint was ok with no notching on inspection. I would expect its possible to replace the universal joint. So long as you can obtain the part. Then replacement procedure should be the same as any other prop uj replacement. Thanks for commenting.
@@pitstopbysamp The Lr3 rear joints are staked. I have replaced staked joints in other applications, but no one seems to make a u-joint for this application. I am sure there must be one that fits.
Would the vibrations I sometimes fell at different speeds be the prop shaft? It feels like i got a flat tire, the car starts bouncing and gets worse if I keep driving. If I stop , turn the car off , start again the bouncing stops and goes away. It doesn't fell like a vibration, is more like bouncing, a loose wheel or a flat. I' ve done an alignment but the problem still there. Any ideas. 2006 LR3 , 125k miles , 1.5 lift and 31.5 inches mud tires. Thank you.
Hi, your problem does not sound like a propshaft issue to me. There could be a number of causes. I would recommend getting it checked over by a specialist. Sorry I could not be more specific.
@@pitstopbysamp Thank you for the reply. It's a real mystery to me.I've ruled out speed, as it will happen at different speeds. It's just like a flat tire feel. The first time it happened I thought I got a flat.
@@mra12314 Wow, just saw your reply, in my case I had a 2'' spacer on the front wheels. Took them off and haven't have the issue since. I have 1'' spacers on the back that I switched from the 2''. No spacers in the front wheels anymore.
I'm sure you've resolved this or moved on by now, but I had a similar vibration that quickly turned into a wheel hop as well. In my case it was accompanied by a burning smell from the rear of the truck. Turns out it was the parking brake mechanism on one of the wheels, and it sounds like that's somewhat common. In some cases the pad will destruct or delaminate and then grab the drum, causing this. In my case it had just been adjusted too tight and would grab in certain situations. Easy to confirm by feeling the hub on both rear wheels--if one of them is hotter that the other wheels, that's the one.
That retention clip that was removed was a little unclear to me. I imagine it is a typical circle design to be spread with proper clip pliers, but didn't see how you reinstalled it. It's probably obvious but wouldn't want to damage anything by doing it wrong....
Hi. Yes there will be torque settings for either end of the prop, carrier mounting and Heatshield. These would be available in a workshop manual or if you like I could post these for you. Thanks for the comment.
I just got the cover off and the two shafts just came apart, my 2005 LR3 HSE has a different design where the ball bearings are the locater for the two shafts, there is no splined shaft, well there is a very short one that holds bearings cage in place, the spring clip to hold that in place is impossible to remove, for me anyway, just a warning, since they are no longer aligned I guess I'll be getting a new shaft, there is no snap ring holding it together, the big bearings interlock in a cage and locate into cups on the long end, just thought I'd add that, in case anyone comes across it
Hi thanks for your input. its just a habit to mark everything, good workshop practice. Can save hassle or error at times. This is the first D3 ive done and so far its still fine and no leaks.
It needs to be marked to keep the unbalance where it is and not for phasing. And of course it is dynamically balanced by GKN. What you refer to is called phasing. It is not phased because it has only one cardan joint. I thought this is a good and clear video. My salute.
Fuck i would have cleaned out the old grease from the center Bearings and use a good Hi pressure grease ,( grate for large CV joints also) and make a Proper Job of IT !!
There are many levels of no in this video. Biggest two is not changing the whole prop because the greese cap will definetly not reseal and second is the fact you put it in a vice which is a definet no no. Go to any landrover specailist and you will see a bin full of props. the repairs never last and a new prop is not that expensive.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
VERY good "How to..." video. Excellent visuals but I was particularly impressed with the commentary. Clear, simple to understand and inspiring - made you feel like anyone could do this.
Very well done. Just subscribed.
Hi thanks for your comment. really pleased you found it useful and clear to follow.
Thanks very much for a great vid! Just about to tackle this job myself. $176 nzd for a new bearing vs $2075 for a whole new driveshaft!
Very clean and straight forward video. Well done. It sucks that the replacement boot is not available as a spare. This would make it a cleaner job. 👍
Thanks for leaving a comment appreciate it. Enjoy the content you and Vera are making.
Agree. The replacement should come with a new boot.
Some really good tips just for general work. I liked your methodology. Great editing and communication.
Excellent, clear and concise works - well done.
Right on time!!Brilliant video! I just got a LR3 that I need to do this repair.
Brilliant I hope you enjoy your new discovery 3. Thanks for leaving a comment
A very informative video. Useful to me as I have this job to do in the next week or so. Many thanks!
Tried the job today. I could not get the gaitor ring to move. I used different size chisels but gave up as i felt the metal ring would be irreparably damaged and I need to keep my LR mobile.. Ordered a new prop this afternoon
Excellent video. I watch loads and urs is the best for working information 👍
Nice description of breaking it down cheers
Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback.
Great video! Very detailed!
Good video, thank you!
Great vid. Well presented and detailed. ✅
Nice. Need to change mine in a week. Thanks, super informative video !!!!!
Thanks for leaving a comment.
Excellent demonstration.
Fantastic video, thanks for posting.
Great. Thanks! Very helpful!
Thanks for the positive feedback
Very professional and useful video.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the comment.
Thank You for the video.
Thanks for watching!
thanks for the video mate, can these centre bearing get noisy such as a harmonic whine without actually being failed like yours was?
Great vid, easy to follow
Thanks for the feedback
Thanks guys, done the job perfect 👍
Great video, yes the boot spare would be good. But wouldn't it have been better for LR to design it so it didn't fail after a mere 124k miles, I mean come on. Of course then we would have nothing to do but drive it!
@@1699bridgetown will that ever happen with a Landrover 😬😬
Thank you 🙏🙏
Hey Sam.......the full workshop manual say to use new torx bolts when refitting.... I hardly ever see new bolts used when torqued...... what are yours or anyones thoughts on always using new bolts for torqued jobs?... regards.....dave
Excellent video. Does this also hold true for the Range Rover Sport L320/2009, 3.6 TDV8 prop shaft? I had exactly the same problem, damaged center bearing and disintegrated doughnut bush and bracket.
Very professional
Would juddering at low speed be this problem or when I'm going up a hill in low gear starts to judder if I put my foot down it will go away any help appreciated thanks guys
Feel like this job is something you'd only ever do on your own car. As the labour cost vs an aftermarket new prop would probably be more
Really good video. But as I can get a full new OEM driveshaft for ~£290, how much labour is involved in replacing the bearing on the existing shaft?
Would love to no the reply to this. 270 odd quid for a new prop shaft with bearing bolts everything. And can be done in 1 hour max. Or the labour cost plus 40/50 quid for just a centre bearing? Hmmm doesn’t seam worth doing just the bearing. 🤦🏻♂️
Thank you so much
Hola eh cambiado soportes de transmisión encare bien las crucetas y se an variado después xque es?
Great video thank you! I’m working on replacing mine with your guidance right now! Do you know the torque specs for the e12 and e14 torx screws by any chance?
Thanks for the comment. sorry i couldn't get back to you sooner.
Torque specs: 150nm for E14 50nm for E12 and 30nm for the screws of the bearing! If I remember right 😁👍
Thanks
Why mine disco 3 keeps cutting the center bearing rubber 3 times in 100 Meters. Mine is manual 6 speed gear box
Good video, hopefully it will last for you
Thanks for commenting.
Have you come up with any solution for the rear U-joint? Every shaft I have replaced due to the center bearing also needs a rear joint.
Hi, on this vehicle the universal joint was ok with no notching on inspection. I would expect its possible to replace the universal joint. So long as you can obtain the part. Then replacement procedure should be the same as any other prop uj replacement. Thanks for commenting.
@@pitstopbysamp The Lr3 rear joints are staked. I have replaced staked joints in other applications, but no one seems to make a u-joint for this application. I am sure there must be one that fits.
@@joelletendre1011 Thanks, I will have a look into this and give you an update or hopefully a part number.
Would the vibrations I sometimes fell at different speeds be the prop shaft? It feels like i got a flat tire, the car starts bouncing and gets worse if I keep driving. If I stop , turn the car off , start again the bouncing stops and goes away. It doesn't fell like a vibration, is more like bouncing, a loose wheel or a flat. I' ve done an alignment but the problem still there. Any ideas. 2006 LR3 , 125k miles , 1.5 lift and 31.5 inches mud tires. Thank you.
Hi, your problem does not sound like a propshaft issue to me. There could be a number of causes. I would recommend getting it checked over by a specialist. Sorry I could not be more specific.
@@pitstopbysamp Thank you for the reply. It's a real mystery to me.I've ruled out speed, as it will happen at different speeds. It's just like a flat tire feel. The first time it happened I thought I got a flat.
@@agentdoubleozero I have the exact same issue - did you have any luck finding out what it was?! I’ve been told it is the centre prop support!
@@mra12314 Wow, just saw your reply, in my case I had a 2'' spacer on the front wheels. Took them off and haven't have the issue since. I have 1'' spacers on the back that I switched from the 2''. No spacers in the front wheels anymore.
I'm sure you've resolved this or moved on by now, but I had a similar vibration that quickly turned into a wheel hop as well. In my case it was accompanied by a burning smell from the rear of the truck. Turns out it was the parking brake mechanism on one of the wheels, and it sounds like that's somewhat common. In some cases the pad will destruct or delaminate and then grab the drum, causing this. In my case it had just been adjusted too tight and would grab in certain situations. Easy to confirm by feeling the hub on both rear wheels--if one of them is hotter that the other wheels, that's the one.
That retention clip that was removed was a little unclear to me. I imagine it is a typical
circle design to be spread with proper clip pliers, but didn't see how you reinstalled it.
It's probably obvious but wouldn't want to damage anything by doing it wrong....
Don’t the bolts have to be torsioned to spec?
Hi. Yes there will be torque settings for either end of the prop, carrier mounting and Heatshield. These would be available in a workshop manual or if you like I could post these for you. Thanks for the comment.
Great
I just got the cover off and the two shafts just came apart, my 2005 LR3 HSE has a different design where the ball bearings are the locater for the two shafts, there is no splined shaft, well there is a very short one that holds bearings cage in place, the spring clip to hold that in place is impossible to remove, for me anyway, just a warning, since they are no longer aligned I guess I'll be getting a new shaft, there is no snap ring holding it together, the big bearings interlock in a cage and locate into cups on the long end, just thought I'd add that, in case anyone comes across it
If no puller cut with angle grinder, and it will come apart inner and outer .
The prop isn’t dynamically balanced so no need to mark the far ends. I’d be interested to know how many you have done and how many have leaked grease.
Hi thanks for your input. its just a habit to mark everything, good workshop practice. Can save hassle or error at times. This is the first D3 ive done and so far its still fine and no leaks.
It needs to be marked to keep the unbalance where it is and not for phasing. And of course it is dynamically balanced by GKN. What you refer to is called phasing. It is not phased because it has only one cardan joint. I thought this is a good and clear video. My salute.
they will all fail soon dont bother fixing them have a look on the Facebook page
@@rickfranke4886 I know. Many have tried and very few have succeeded
No need to mark the flange as propshft is balanced of the car as if you buy a new prop it makes n diffrenc
Fuck i would have cleaned out the old grease from the center Bearings and use a good Hi pressure grease ,( grate for large CV joints also) and make a Proper Job of IT !!
Es un frelander td4
There are many levels of no in this video. Biggest two is not changing the whole prop because the greese cap will definetly not reseal and second is the fact you put it in a vice which is a definet no no. Go to any landrover specailist and you will see a bin full of props. the repairs never last and a new prop is not that expensive.
Thanks for your sharing your opinion.
do you have to get a new prop balanced?
@@loveyourlawn9725 Hi. No a new propshaft will be balanced by the manufacturer.
Pointless task cheaper and quicker to fit a new one.
😂