Thank you so much for providing this detailed video on Range Rover rear shaft replacement. Your thorough explanation and demonstration are greatly appreciated. It's evident that you put a lot of effort into creating this content, and it's extremely helpful for those looking to tackle this repair themselves. Keep up the excellent work
Lol thank you sir, local indie shops near Bellevue are quoting $1400 labor before taxes just to unscrew a bunch of stuff. Appreciate the knowledge sharing.
@@HazyJay the state of automobile repairs market is just unbelievable. Good to have gent like you that covers our regular peoples’ asses. Appreciation!
Much appreciated video this is the only video i have found that explains the thumping noise and burning rubber smell from under my L322 due to it all being behind a heat sheild out of view was difficult to diagnose thank you.
Excellent tutorial! I particularly like the lower-left graphic that shows what tool to use for each step. You ran into the same issues I did, thanks for the tips! Great job!
Great video. Love the way you present it and give time for me to hit the pause button! I had to hammer out the rear end from the diff. Just a few taps with a chisel and it came right out.
Yeah those are the most difficult, you may try heating the bolts up with an induction coil (but these are better for nuts) or trying to get more leverage by using an extension. I used rust penetrant spray and used about 3 ft of extensions so I had more room.
@HazyJay I suspended the two rear wheels on a 270 mm high car ramp, So space was so limited and awkward to apply enough torque on the wrench. I applied clutch cleaner, and used extention too. I will have another go at it tomorrow. Please, does the worn centre bearing of this Propshaft affect the stability of the car. My steering is wobbling so much when I hit about 50m/h.
@@maintenanceengineeringinsider I can't think of a reason why the rear prop shaft would cause steering wobble, even if the prop snapped in two it wouldn't affect steering. Vibration/thumping under the floorboard is what my symptom was, I'd try pushing/pulling the wheels while the car is off the ground to see if you have a loose wheel hub or suspension component, tires will need to be off the ground though.
Let me start by saying the manual states you should mark the old drive shaft to make sure it lines up with the new one. However, the RRS rear drive shaft is a single piece and would be balanced regardless of how it's installed (as long as the bolts line up) because it's symmetric on it's long axis and there aren't two universal joints. I've noted a lot of people don't mark single-piece drive shafts and I didn't mark mine, I reinstalled it whatever way the bolts would line up and I don't have any vibration or issues.
Was there a high pitched slightly metallic sound that came with speed with these? Trying to diagnose a faint sound here. I know these are a common issue. Clunking here would be obvious, but unsure if that center bearing exhibited any other sounds before that dramatic failure?
@@HazyJay Ha yes it is. It is also difficult to explain the source or assume that others have the same range of hearing. I feel like a generative AI questionnaire to reproduce isolated sounds would be useful :P. When it isn't a whine, grind, or bang, 'whirring' and metallic' and 'scraping' are words that do not do it justice. Right now mine is just faint, but enough that it just sounds odd. Rear diff? Wheel Bearing, who knows.
@@TheObiwantoby It'd be nice to put it on a lift and let it roll and make the noise while you're under and finding the source, apart from that it's rolling around with the windows down hoping to find if it's from the front or back and left/right
Great video thank you just changed the rear valve block on my rrs and used your video only trouble I had was reinstalling the air pipes which you didn’t show man what a hassle to get them on lucky I bought two as I stripped the thread on the first one I was putting in so used second one and got it with a bit of patience so will change all the insides of new one into stripped one cheers again👍
Hmmm, Might have messed up by only ordering the support bearing. I did notice that spray pattern on the underside above/behind the transfer case connection so it looks like that front joint needs replacing as well. With that center bearing gone it makes sense that the other joints would be stressed to failure. I can get a new entire prop shaft for $400. Balanced and ready to go. The support bearing is on order for about $90 and I picked up a bearing puller at HF for $70. So if that front joint is toast I would have been better to just order the new shaft. Live and learn, right? Hope PartsGeek will take back the returned support bearing. The puller may be of use down the road...
I've done that before with the lower control arms, it's just so much easier to buy new arms since if one bearing failed the others are likely on their way out. Definitely keep the bearing puller and you can try that next time haha.
I have a question when i was looking on e-bay someone tolde me that there are made in 2 sizes one beeing the 1160mm and one 1300m i have an l320 HSE 2006 witch one i need 😞
hey brother, so after the DIY rear shaft job performed, i noticed the humming noise still going on while gas pedalling down around 30-50 mph. A quick checkup at the local shop they determined it is front drive axle/differential is wearing that the magnet on it shows some early metal pieces wear/tear. My car is 2011 rrs SC with only 70k miles on it and i performed all front/rear diffs + transfer case oil service 2 years ago at the same shop (mileage was around 60k miles) and i rarely do some lightweight RV towing during summer time. Do you think it is normal wear/tear due for aging/70k mileage or could it be something wrong with the fluid they serviced(altho they claim only used LR suggested products)? ALso would it be a troublesome DIY job to do since the maintenance manual does involve many steps of parts removal to get that front axle assembly out. It would be easily 4000+ job costs since just the part itself LR056944 would costs around 3000 at LR parts online. Thanks for taking the time to read this.
You can buy a front diff from a salvaged car on eBay for 300-600$ and attempt it yourself, it does involve removing both from CV axles and the front drive axle. It's pretty involved but shouldn't be impossible. Would definitely take a whole day. Mine hums too when coasting at all speeds, I've decided to wait until it becomes worse to change the front diff however.
@@HazyJay thanks for the reply. After discussion it seems something wrong inside the front axle assembly and the actual parts to replace LR006011 is about 1000 + 400 core charge fees, so 1:1 parts labor down to total 2800 (8hour job). The metal pieces worry me so I wouldn’t wanna wait for a bigger problem bill later. Thanks again love your work.
Hello I have same grease leak as yours where drive shaft Connect to the transfer case , will this procedure replacement work on 2013 Range Rover sport HSE as well? Thank You
@@vinnyk3245 You can, the only problem is it's more difficult to do and usually the center bearing also needs replacing regularly, so it's easier to just replace the whole thing at once.
Thank you so much for providing this detailed video on Range Rover rear shaft replacement. Your thorough explanation and demonstration are greatly appreciated. It's evident that you put a lot of effort into creating this content, and it's extremely helpful for those looking to tackle this repair themselves. Keep up the excellent work
Awesome! Thank you for the informative content!
I'm getting a vibration when I give it gas around 70 mph. I let off the gas and the vibration goes away. I'm hoping this fixes the issue!
My 2005 LR3 has a vibration from about 73-77mph or when it drops into passing gear, but then goes away. What is this a sign of?
I’ve run into your videos a couple of times, I really appreciate them - and I’m about to tackle this job. Big thanks! 🙌🏽
Another great video 👍
Lol thank you sir, local indie shops near Bellevue are quoting $1400 labor before taxes just to unscrew a bunch of stuff. Appreciate the knowledge sharing.
And it would probably take them 7 days to do it 😂
@@HazyJay the state of automobile repairs market is just unbelievable. Good to have gent like you that covers our regular peoples’ asses. Appreciation!
Much appreciated video this is the only video i have found that explains the thumping noise and burning rubber smell from under my L322 due to it all being behind a heat sheild out of view was difficult to diagnose thank you.
Excellent tutorial! I particularly like the lower-left graphic that shows what tool to use for each step. You ran into the same issues I did, thanks for the tips! Great job!
Great video. Love the way you present it and give time for me to hit the pause button!
I had to hammer out the rear end from the diff. Just a few taps with a chisel and it came right out.
Great tutorials. Keep it up.
Nice video, I tried to replace rear propshaft on my LandRover D3 . I could not undo the rear bolts, not enough room to engage a breaker bar
Yeah those are the most difficult, you may try heating the bolts up with an induction coil (but these are better for nuts) or trying to get more leverage by using an extension. I used rust penetrant spray and used about 3 ft of extensions so I had more room.
@HazyJay I suspended the two rear wheels on a 270 mm high car ramp, So space was so limited and awkward to apply enough torque on the wrench.
I applied clutch cleaner, and used extention too.
I will have another go at it tomorrow.
Please, does the worn centre bearing of this Propshaft affect the stability of the car. My steering is wobbling so much when I hit about 50m/h.
@@maintenanceengineeringinsider I can't think of a reason why the rear prop shaft would cause steering wobble, even if the prop snapped in two it wouldn't affect steering. Vibration/thumping under the floorboard is what my symptom was, I'd try pushing/pulling the wheels while the car is off the ground to see if you have a loose wheel hub or suspension component, tires will need to be off the ground though.
Do you have to mark the old drive shaft somehow before you remove it to reference the balance weight for when you install the new drive shaft?
Let me start by saying the manual states you should mark the old drive shaft to make sure it lines up with the new one. However, the RRS rear drive shaft is a single piece and would be balanced regardless of how it's installed (as long as the bolts line up) because it's symmetric on it's long axis and there aren't two universal joints. I've noted a lot of people don't mark single-piece drive shafts and I didn't mark mine, I reinstalled it whatever way the bolts would line up and I don't have any vibration or issues.
@@HazyJay Good to know, thanks!👍🏻
@@HazyJay That makes me think I've either another problem, or a bad replacement shaft! I replaced mine and have vibration above 40mph
Was there a high pitched slightly metallic sound that came with speed with these? Trying to diagnose a faint sound here. I know these are a common issue. Clunking here would be obvious, but unsure if that center bearing exhibited any other sounds before that dramatic failure?
Nah it basically was normal and then clunking with acceleration. Finding the source of noises is way harder than it should be.
@@HazyJay Ha yes it is. It is also difficult to explain the source or assume that others have the same range of hearing. I feel like a generative AI questionnaire to reproduce isolated sounds would be useful :P.
When it isn't a whine, grind, or bang, 'whirring' and metallic' and 'scraping' are words that do not do it justice. Right now mine is just faint, but enough that it just sounds odd. Rear diff? Wheel Bearing, who knows.
@@TheObiwantoby It'd be nice to put it on a lift and let it roll and make the noise while you're under and finding the source, apart from that it's rolling around with the windows down hoping to find if it's from the front or back and left/right
Have you guys received a letter regarding timing chain replacement from schmidt timing chain
Great video thank you just changed the rear valve block on my rrs and used your video only trouble I had was reinstalling the air pipes which you didn’t show man what a hassle to get them on lucky I bought two as I stripped the thread on the first one I was putting in so used second one and got it with a bit of patience so will change all the insides of new one into stripped one cheers again👍
U gotta tell people put the yoke the same exact way on the rear diff
Because there's only one yolk and the other joint is a universal joint it shouldn't matter 👍
Not talking about that way meaning on the yoke line it back up the way u see the rust
WOW... What an awesome video!! Thanks!
👍👍
Hmmm, Might have messed up by only ordering the support bearing. I did notice that spray
pattern on the underside above/behind the transfer case connection so it looks like that front joint needs replacing as well. With that center bearing gone it makes sense that the other joints would be stressed to failure. I can get a new entire prop shaft for $400. Balanced and ready to go. The support bearing is on order for about $90 and I picked up a bearing puller at HF for $70. So if that front joint is toast I would have been better to just order the new shaft. Live and learn, right? Hope PartsGeek will take back the returned support bearing. The puller may be of use down the road...
I've done that before with the lower control arms, it's just so much easier to buy new arms since if one bearing failed the others are likely on their way out. Definitely keep the bearing puller and you can try that next time haha.
Do you need to reprogram via the OBD, after you refit the battery, or do no faults show up? I have a 2010 Rrs. Thanks.
No need to reprogram anything 👌
does this allow the rear wheel to be "free rolling"
Need help with a transfer case
If my wheel hub assembly doesn’t fit does this my my drive shaft is swollen and I need to replace it?? PLEASE HELP
This portion of the drive shaft doesn't interact with the wheel hubs
Am I losing my mind or did you just swap the rear shaft without removing the exhaust? Lol so it slides right out??
I had my #7 resonator deleted previously, that's probably why 😅
I have a question when i was looking on e-bay someone tolde me that there are made in 2 sizes one beeing the 1160mm and one 1300m i have an l320 HSE 2006 witch one i need 😞
Hmm i'm not sure, this is the exact one I purchased: www.partsgeek.com/q3836c2-land-rover-range-rover-sport-driveshaft.html
How many miles were on your car when you replaced the drive shaft? Thank you
140,000 miles 👌
Great video, Roughly how long to do the job
If you don't run into any problems it's maybe 1 hour. First time probably 2.5hrs because bolts will be stuck or hard to remove/access.
hey brother, so after the DIY rear shaft job performed, i noticed the humming noise still going on while gas pedalling down around 30-50 mph. A quick checkup at the local shop they determined it is front drive axle/differential is wearing that the magnet on it shows some early metal pieces wear/tear. My car is 2011 rrs SC with only 70k miles on it and i performed all front/rear diffs + transfer case oil service 2 years ago at the same shop (mileage was around 60k miles) and i rarely do some lightweight RV towing during summer time. Do you think it is normal wear/tear due for aging/70k mileage or could it be something wrong with the fluid they serviced(altho they claim only used LR suggested products)? ALso would it be a troublesome DIY job to do since the maintenance manual does involve many steps of parts removal to get that front axle assembly out. It would be easily 4000+ job costs since just the part itself LR056944 would costs around 3000 at LR parts online. Thanks for taking the time to read this.
You can buy a front diff from a salvaged car on eBay for 300-600$ and attempt it yourself, it does involve removing both from CV axles and the front drive axle. It's pretty involved but shouldn't be impossible. Would definitely take a whole day. Mine hums too when coasting at all speeds, I've decided to wait until it becomes worse to change the front diff however.
I can't comment on the oil they used. I'd assume they have the correct oils in the shop but you never know, and towing can decrease diff life.
@@HazyJay thanks for the reply. After discussion it seems something wrong inside the front axle assembly and the actual parts to replace LR006011 is about 1000 + 400 core charge fees, so 1:1 parts labor down to total 2800 (8hour job). The metal pieces worry me so I wouldn’t wanna wait for a bigger problem bill later. Thanks again love your work.
@@harryj1081 That's better, good luck I hope it solves your issue!
Hello I have same grease leak as yours where drive shaft Connect to the transfer case , will this procedure replacement work on 2013 Range Rover sport HSE as well? Thank You
I'm not sure but I believe it is very similar, however bolt sizes and parts will be different.
Do you know if I can just replace the grease boot seal instead of replace the whole shaft? Thank you in advance
@@vinnyk3245 You can, the only problem is it's more difficult to do and usually the center bearing also needs replacing regularly, so it's easier to just replace the whole thing at once.
@@HazyJay I’m getting ready replace my rear shalf as well 2013 RRS was wondering on torque spec the same? Thank You
@@vinnyk3245 I'm not sure because I only have the L320 service manual, but I'd bet that the corresponding bolts are pretty much identical.