There's actually a couple of pip marks by the gear and on the shaft that shows you how to line up the distributor before you put it in, and those marks also align with a pip on the camshaft front housing that the dist. goes into. No need to mark the dist. cap and so forth.
so i bought this 92 mazda b2200 and first thing i did was plugs and wires. looking at the firing order its completely off from the 1342. Its firing at 2134 and seems to run alright but it wont run on the 1342 firing order
Was that a Magnetic pick up or optical distributor? I have a 91 B2200 and having a hard time finding the rotor- the on I get from all the auto part stores are to small where it slides on to the distributor shaft-the one on this video looks exactly like mine,would you have the part number to the rotor ? Any info helps thanks.
Same problem I'm having! No matter which parts store I get them from the part of the rotor that sits on the distributor shaft fits . I've tried several that are made for our efi version ignition and tried a couple that are for carb models just to see if something got mixed up. Nope. The rotor that is on there has a logo that looks like the letters TM and has a circle around it with what I'm guessing are lightning bolt shaped electricity
1 2 3 4 layout 1 3 4 2 original combustion design 2 4 1 3 my idea. Basically, I mean, 3 and 4 piston firing generates more heat and also more pressure in a small time frame. It also skips one cylinder and fires 2 next to each other If you fired 2 4 1 3, it'd be like this 1cyl 2cyl 3cyl 4cyl ^1. ^2. Then 1cyl then 3 cylinder... It means each cylinder that fired would be after it slipped the cylinder before it. The way I'm seeing this is, each 2nd cylinder fires... Not , 1 cylinder, then skip one, then fire 2 in a row, then come back to the one that was skipped, then back to the first one. It would allow a smoother power output, and it would allow less vibration and allow heat to be removed from each cylinder that didn't fire, allowing a lower general operating temperature , and it just seems to make more sense. Just an idea, iv seen a shaft designed to take combustion in this process, they can work. The rods need to be timed differently, but the engine runs smoother. Iv only ever seen it custom made. Never manufactured. Could be a reason for it or no one really payed attention to it. Or it could have issues I'm just unaware of. Was just a idea though
@@kevenrue2088 it won't work unless the crankshaft is designed for it. As just changing firing order won't work because the rods would not be in the correct place and would likely break something. If your crankshaft is setup for it, then it can work. As I said iv only seen in once, it was in a rb30det powered GTR racecar I seen a while back at the races. I'm not too mechanically minded in this area so I'm unsure exactly how it was done. But essentially the idea is to fire a cylinder, skip 1, fire the next, skip 1, fire the next.... Rather than fire 1, skip 1, fire the end 2, (if it's a 4cylinder) then come back to the missed one, fire that. Then go back to the first cylinder in the series. Essentially the normal way is causing to combustions, next to each other, then missing a cylinder to fire the one after it, then back to the 1st one. 1 2. 3. 4 ^3rd ^1st. ^4th ^2nd Only 2 cylinders would fire next to each other but this is in the center of the block, not on the side, allowing lower heat around the sides which could aid in less block bending under high RPM. And allows the exhaust valves to exhaust heat differently. Only the center 2 cylinders would be firing next to each other
I meant, the force of 2 combustions at one end of the block, at high rpm and thrashing the car, it can lead to the block rotating/bending. Which happens quite a lot. It would be amor harder for the block to bend, if this was happening in the center. Perhaps there's reason why it never happened like this but the car I seen this in had some extraordinarily smooth power output.
FrankHurtAuto hey I have a 92 Mazda b2200 I'm having starting problems it start but it takes a few times to keep it running or I cheat and push down on the throttle to for it to start. I'm thinking it's the pugs but not sure. Do you have any suggestions
Hahaha no way, 9 years later and this vid saved my ass from calling a mechanic, thanks a bunch for the info mate
This is the most informative video i've ever seen on distributors ever. Thank you lol.
There's actually a couple of pip marks by the gear and on the shaft that shows you how to line up the distributor before you put it in, and those marks also align with a pip on the camshaft front housing that the dist. goes into. No need to mark the dist. cap and so forth.
Helped me out a lot.
Frank gracias me sirvió bastante el video !!
I used NGK sparkplugs. The number is BPR5ES-11 and the gap is 0.044
Nice video!
It is a good idea to put some oil on the "O" ring
Do you know the tolerance in degrees for timing?
My truck was starting before and I replaced the new distributor and now it won’t start I tried putting the old one back on and it still won’t start.
is it B2200?
I just cleaned my spark plugs and my truck started! What kind of sparks plugs should I buy for it? It's a 2.2 litre 92 Mazda fuel injected
How to connect 2 wires distributor to ignition coil was my question
Nesecito saber la sincronización de la faja de distribución
so i bought this 92 mazda b2200 and first thing i did was plugs and wires. looking at the firing order its completely off from the 1342. Its firing at 2134 and seems to run alright but it wont run on the 1342 firing order
It’s the order cylinders fire. 1,3,4,2 is same as 2,1,3,4 or 4,2,1,3 or 3,4,2,1. Normally you start counting from cylinder #1
Thank you I really appreciate it.
good vid. Thanks.
Was that a Magnetic pick up or optical distributor? I have a 91 B2200 and having a hard time finding the rotor- the on I get from all the auto part stores are to small where it slides on to the distributor shaft-the one on this video looks exactly like mine,would you have the part number to the rotor ? Any info helps thanks.
Without fuel injection OEM part #FE2S18V059U
with fuel injection #F22018V05B9U
hope this helps.
Same problem I'm having! No matter which parts store I get them from the part of the rotor that sits on the distributor shaft fits . I've tried several that are made for our efi version ignition and tried a couple that are for carb models just to see if something got mixed up. Nope. The rotor that is on there has a logo that looks like the letters TM and has a circle around it with what I'm guessing are lightning bolt shaped electricity
are you supposed to put oil on that thing or something?
Ok so now what's the recommended timing(degree 4°,6°,8°,10°or 12° on original carbon and vacuum lines.
For 91 B2200 carburetor, idle 750-850 rpm, timing 5-7 degrees, distributor lock bolt 14-19 ftlbs
@@FrankHurtAuto thank you for your help
1342? Wouldnt it be better to fire 2413?
What makes it better?
1 2 3 4 layout
1 3 4 2 original combustion design
2 4 1 3 my idea.
Basically, I mean, 3 and 4 piston firing generates more heat and also more pressure in a small time frame. It also skips one cylinder and fires 2 next to each other
If you fired 2 4 1 3, it'd be like this
1cyl 2cyl 3cyl 4cyl
^1. ^2. Then 1cyl then 3 cylinder... It means each cylinder that fired would be after it slipped the cylinder before it.
The way I'm seeing this is, each 2nd cylinder fires... Not , 1 cylinder, then skip one, then fire 2 in a row, then come back to the one that was skipped, then back to the first one.
It would allow a smoother power output, and it would allow less vibration and allow heat to be removed from each cylinder that didn't fire, allowing a lower general operating temperature , and it just seems to make more sense. Just an idea, iv seen a shaft designed to take combustion in this process, they can work. The rods need to be timed differently, but the engine runs smoother. Iv only ever seen it custom made. Never manufactured. Could be a reason for it or no one really payed attention to it. Or it could have issues I'm just unaware of. Was just a idea though
Once I get my 4G 64 up and running I just might test your theory out and see if it makes it smoother. I'LL let you know if it even starts LOL
@@kevenrue2088 it won't work unless the crankshaft is designed for it. As just changing firing order won't work because the rods would not be in the correct place and would likely break something. If your crankshaft is setup for it, then it can work. As I said iv only seen in once, it was in a rb30det powered GTR racecar I seen a while back at the races. I'm not too mechanically minded in this area so I'm unsure exactly how it was done. But essentially the idea is to fire a cylinder, skip 1, fire the next, skip 1, fire the next.... Rather than fire 1, skip 1, fire the end 2, (if it's a 4cylinder) then come back to the missed one, fire that. Then go back to the first cylinder in the series. Essentially the normal way is causing to combustions, next to each other, then missing a cylinder to fire the one after it, then back to the 1st one.
1 2. 3. 4
^3rd ^1st. ^4th ^2nd
Only 2 cylinders would fire next to each other but this is in the center of the block, not on the side, allowing lower heat around the sides which could aid in less block bending under high RPM. And allows the exhaust valves to exhaust heat differently. Only the center 2 cylinders would be firing next to each other
I meant, the force of 2 combustions at one end of the block, at high rpm and thrashing the car, it can lead to the block rotating/bending. Which happens quite a lot. It would be amor harder for the block to bend, if this was happening in the center. Perhaps there's reason why it never happened like this but the car I seen this in had some extraordinarily smooth power output.
that 5 kind runs very hot.
88 B2200 5 speed carburetor
Is it electronic ignition or does it have points?
no points
Sos groso sabelo! Taringa +10
Actually I own a 1991 B2200, what would you like to know. We will make a video and post it.
FrankHurtAuto hey I have a 92 Mazda b2200 I'm having starting problems it start but it takes a few times to keep it running or I cheat and push down on the throttle to for it to start. I'm thinking it's the pugs but not sure. Do you have any suggestions
I need help getting of all the vacuum lines that I won't need since, I don't have to do emissions on it anymore.
What year is your truck?
1992
me puede de cir como banda el arnés de de la cuatro entrada de distribuidor
Any more b2200 videos?
Pivot point location AC3
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